UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Jim on October 17, 2008, 12:02:16 pm
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Was playing on this the other day, didn't make much progress.
Any one done it and got some beta, especially the 2 moves into the stand up
Cheers
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By 'roof' you mean starting at the back, as opposed to 'Red baron' from standing then? All I know is its very hard, took BBGuns more than one visit, though reach may be an advantage.
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yes the stand up is basic, the roof from the back is a different proposition altogether
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Adams did it a while back and is unlikely to remember what he did but I'll ask him if you want and maybe even tempt him to resurrect his Dolph alter ego and respond to you. As people have said previously, reach may have assisted him (talent may also have helped).
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theres a bit of beta on the yorkshire grit site in the comments for red baron.
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I reckon the best method is (hopefully this makes sense):
Start at jug (obviously)
LH to good undercut, with feet low
RH to another good undercut (again with feet low)
Foot up to ledge and reach out for the spikey crimp with LH (I find it best to get my thumb over the spike)
With feet still at back pop to the lip (there is no real hold but get your whole hand over - small dink for finger tips)
LF onto quite polished foothold in the roof and make a hard cut loose
then swing R heel round the lip and grab that nipple thing!
RH to sidepull used as stand-up starting hold (getting your thumb over the top)
heel to big hold and you're in the stand up.......
There are other methods but they are harder IMO
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Thanks Tom, I'll give that a go when I'm next there.
I don't think Dolph's sequence would be good to anyone sub 7 foot!
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Had a bash at this today and the move to the sloper on the lip felt conceptual. Didn't even get close.
Anyone under six foot remember if they used an intermediate RH undercut in the roof / went to the sloper further right so I've got an idea what to try next time?