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21
power club / Power Club 751 29 April - 5 May 2024
« Last post by duncan on Yesterday at 09:20:25 am »
Hello everyone, it's the long weekend so expecting late entries. The weather appears to have been intermittently better so hope people have managed to get outside. If not, keep showing up for when you can.

M - Hip flexibility: prone frog stretch, standing pancake stretch, sumo squats.

T - Hip flexibility. Walked 12km and stood for three hours (Donizzeti’s Lucia di Lammermoor, the archetypal 19th century opera: romantic love versus family obligation, the men are useless or shits, the heroine dies a tragic and unnecessary death in the third act but not before treating us to some transcendentally beautiful music. Katie Mitchell’s feminist staging was thought-provoking, Nadine Sierra was superb in one of the great roles of all opera.)

W - Tired. Hip flexibility as above.

T - Fingerboard pickups, left only, 18mm edge: 41kg x 7s for half crimp, 5s for full crimp. Shoulder and elbow conditioning: handstands, side planks. Hip flexibility as above.
 
F - Hip flexibility as above. Leg conditioning (box-steps, heel raises, single-leg squats).

S - Fairlop Waters concrete boulders with AJM and miniAJM. The latter has the tenacity and love of refining sequences that suggests he’ll be burning off his dad in the not too distant future! I felt completely out of gas for no apparent reason and barely did anything. Elbow was still sore after a trivial amount of climbing. Hip flexibility as above. Walked 10km.

S - Hip flexibility as above. Walked 8km.

Good to meet up with AJM and M.

A week's rest resulted in a PB in finger strength for the left hand, hopefully a good sign in the long term. The right elbow is now feeling a bit worse if anything, this should encourage me to stick with being moderately active as a strategy. Hampstead mixed pond has reopened at 13C, a bit cold for me right now, but will resume swimming fairly soon which might help. Sitting around at home is not helping my power-weight ratio!

Doesn’t now seem worth going to Scotland this month so I need to rejig my ideas for later in the year.


23
bouldering / Re: UK men who have bouldered >=8B recently...
« Last post by remus on Yesterday at 08:07:14 am »
Oh cool, didn't realise they'd suggested a grade, I've bumped it down to E8 on CH per the current opinions.
24
bouldering / Re: UK men who have bouldered >=8B recently...
« Last post by andy moles on Yesterday at 07:11:50 am »
Good knowledge, he's on the list. Also noticed he's done Eternal Fall so a double addition to the boulder and trad lists!

I think James and Angus said they'd give Eternal Fall E8, fwiw.
25
get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: BMC Resolutions shout out 📣
« Last post by Offwidth on May 05, 2024, 06:26:22 pm »
We will all see soon enough, when the AGM papers are released  later this month. What could possibly be the point of telling lies within that timetable? Simon has outlined the approximate losses already (based on leaks)... he just forgot to take into account the cost savings and extra commercial income.

Council saw extensive information on provisional finances for the 2023 accounts two months back (with way more detail than normal). These would have been public already if a more complex audit than normal hadn't thrown a spanner in the works.
26
bouldering / Re: UK men who have bouldered >=8B recently...
« Last post by remus on May 05, 2024, 06:02:52 pm »
Good knowledge, he's on the list. Also noticed he's done Eternal Fall so a double addition to the boulder and trad lists!
27
bouldering / Re: UK men who have bouldered >=8B recently...
« Last post by Ross Barker on May 05, 2024, 04:20:19 pm »
28
get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: BMC Resolutions shout out 📣
« Last post by Oldmanmatt on May 05, 2024, 02:09:56 pm »
The 2022 annual report summarises GB climbing income and expenditure in pie charts (although this didn’t include their share of non-core office costs): it's why I linked it alongside the 2022 accounts.

Yes, 2023 accounts will be much more detailed. However, Council have been told we can't produce anything close to equivalent detailed information for 2022. Once Council were informed this we were stuck, as we can't accept a motion that we know will place big extra workloads on an understaffed finance team, on a very difficult task which might even prove to be impossible to achieve. All this to highlight financial management wasn't tight enough in 2022: something we already know.


Thanks for taking the time to respond. I don’t have a problem personally with the motions not going to the AGM but I don’t think it has been handled well and certainly the concerns raised by Simon’s motions are pretty valid.

I do hope that the accounts and explanation of the financial information are more detailed this time around. I am in a small mountaineering club and our members would not be happy with the lack of clarity and detail if we presented our accounts to them in this manner.

Also just to be clear I have no intention of leaving the BMC and I didn’t think the subsidiary idea was good. I just want better financial clarity and for GBClimbing to be financially self supporting etc

Cheers Dave

The most polite and reasonable UKB poster, has just echoed much of what has been, more stridently, posted by others, though out various threads on both channels.

I’m sorry Dave, they’re not listening and hide behind weak excuses.
It’s obviously far worse than is being admitted. 🤷🏻‍♂️
29
get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: BMC Resolutions shout out 📣
« Last post by Davo on May 05, 2024, 10:34:57 am »
The 2022 annual report summarises GB climbing income and expenditure in pie charts (although this didn’t include their share of non-core office costs): it's why I linked it alongside the 2022 accounts.

Yes, 2023 accounts will be much more detailed. However, Council have been told we can't produce anything close to equivalent detailed information for 2022. Once Council were informed this we were stuck, as we can't accept a motion that we know will place big extra workloads on an understaffed finance team, on a very difficult task which might even prove to be impossible to achieve. All this to highlight financial management wasn't tight enough in 2022: something we already know.


Thanks for taking the time to respond. I don’t have a problem personally with the motions not going to the AGM but I don’t think it has been handled well and certainly the concerns raised by Simon’s motions are pretty valid.

I do hope that the accounts and explanation of the financial information are more detailed this time around. I am in a small mountaineering club and our members would not be happy with the lack of clarity and detail if we presented our accounts to them in this manner.

Also just to be clear I have no intention of leaving the BMC and I didn’t think the subsidiary idea was good. I just want better financial clarity and for GBClimbing to be financially self supporting etc

Cheers Dave
30
get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: BMC Resolutions shout out 📣
« Last post by Offwidth on May 05, 2024, 10:29:10 am »
Pie charts really help some people, really annoy others, and many sit in between.

A fun pro-pie blog (with some  anti-pie views referenced):

https://www.displayr.com/why-pie-charts-are-better-than-bar-charts/
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