UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: B0405413 on May 22, 2015, 05:12:05 pm
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Areet. I've dabbled in fingerboarding for a few months but sessions have been few and far between; once every couple of weeks or so. I'm now going to stop messing about and do it regularly, but have read so much conflicting information on it so I thought I'd ask for your opinions. Repeaters, Max hangs or both? When should I do it, before a session or after? How many times a week? Thanks in advance for the replies.
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Identify your weaknesses and then research different methods to target them using a fingerboard.
Pick one and try it for the duration,expecting inital positive gains due to recruitment before they come more slowly over the course of the proggrame. Don't get frustrated when they do slow down and just see it through.
Assess where you are when the program has finished then look at your weaknesses again and attempt to address the balance.
Repeat this for the rest of your climbing life, its a marathon not a sprint. It's not about getting strong its about not getting injured.
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As always the under referenced UKB Wiki - Training : The Science - Fingerboarding (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Training_:_The_Science#Finger-boarding) provides a starting point. It has some links to articles (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Training_:_The_Science#Fingerboarding)
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Great, thanks for the help. Some very useful info on that link.
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Best advice is to start slow/easy and work your way up gradually! nothing like a pulley injury to make you give up training ;)