UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Percy B on June 18, 2003, 05:33:25 pm
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Visiting American, Brian Chase, has dispatched an awesome project unearthed by Graham Hoey, and cleaned up by me. This is now called 'Stump Hole Cavern' after the infamous cave in The League of Gentlemen.
The problem climbs the back wall of an area called Harry's cave, an esoteric venue near Chatsworth. The venue only has one possible line, and the problem takes up this challenge - it used to be an aid route, and still has two bolts in it! The black wall overhangs by at least 4 metres in its 8 metre height (don't worry boys and girls, the top 2 metres are very easy!) and stays dry in the heaviest of rain storms. I climbed the original problem - a stand up start finishing at the mid-height jug at hard V8. Brian added the sit-start to make it V9 last weekend, but the obvious challenge of the upper wall was still unclimbed. Brian solved this by a monstrous dyno (5.5 feet between the hand holds) which we sussed out on a top-rope. The dyno alone is probably Font 7b+ according to Brian (and hes 6'2"!), and you have to climb the V9 to get to it!
Anyway, we shed the rope (dirty thing) and tried to boulder the thing out, both of us taking the BIG pisser from the top before the big lad dispatched it. I carried on to take this lob 3 more times before retiring to the pub, but I can confirm the difficulty (V10) and the quality (Totally 3 stars!)
I'll try and post a piccy soonish, as well as giving you guys the beta on how to find it (its at least 10 seconds from the road, though!). However, this problem is destined for classic status, I kid you not.....!
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cool! good effort Big Bri - on a less exciting note he set some of the problems at the Edge and theres an interesting dyno of about oooh 5.5 feet on big holds on the left hand side as you walk in. Check the yellow tape. The dyno at the edge is probably easier (nice mat, minimal airtime) at about v6.
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Yes....interestingly the dyno at The Edge has footholds. StumpHole Cavern doesn't!
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Nice one P-note. Get some beyda posted, I'm down for that, my middle name is "7b+dyno" thy knows.
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Top name,
Stump hole Cavern, named after the crippled prostitute who used to ply her trade there...
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Heres the directions if you want to check it out....
Park at the Robin Hood pub, as if you wanted to go to Birchen Edge (oh dear....). Walk back down the main road towards Baslow, past the track that goes towards Chatsworth Edge and keep going for another 100 - 200 yards. In the trees on the right hand side of the road you may eventually spy some rock. Follow a little track to the cave - takes about 10 seconds from the road, if you're a slow walker! Stump Hole Cavern is the obvious line of holds on the big back wall. Sit start to the ledge half way up is V9, or carry on and jump for the top and score yourself a bit of V10. Noteably the first ascentionist couldn't repeat the dyno the other day so maybe it is pretty hard after all.......take a big pad and a spotter. ENJOY! :wink:
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I actually spotted this driving past the yesterday (before reading this) and guessed it must be it. Didn't take a closer look, but looked a bit dark and gloomy.
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We went and had a pop at this last nite - its good, real good. Unfortunatley the midges were bad so we didn't stop long. One question for Percy: where does the standing-start start? The sitter is the obvious start, but the stander seems a bit ambiguous. We did a kind of pop/jump start, LH on the top crimp, LF on and popping into that backhand slot thing, but this clearly isnt V8, so just wondering where you started from? cheers.
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The original way is pretty much the same as the sitter without the first two moves. You start with left and right hands on the crimps, with your right on the top one. Pull on and shoulder the top crimp and grab a slopey crack thing with your left. A sneaky toe hook for your right foot lets you grab the big juggy gaston thing with your right hand, then cross over for the big ledge. If you fell brave try the jump for the next ledge - scary the first time, and frustrating thereafter! As ever, the grades are just a guide, but unless you is a very tall boy, V10 for the whole show from a sitter to the top seems right for me. Little people will find it harder, if not impossible - poor buggers! The problem from sitting to the mid height ledge is very nice though - the obvious thing to do really. The standing start just ain't as much fun..... :D
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cheers for that - thats pretty much what we were trying in the end. I am surprised that the sitter adds a grade though since those extra 2 moves must be the easiest on the problem!
V10 looks right for the whole thing though, can imagien its exhausting.
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Word to that-a proper bo problem. I told you that toe hook was the way forward! Will be psyched to get back on it when the midges have fucked off
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damn straight. I'll have to get me a woody built to shift the odds in my favour!
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wicked little problem, although finished the day filthy as someone had lite a fire underneath it
managed the standing start and almost the sitter, but that dyno is wicked man, cant wait to have another go