UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: bearontherun on October 02, 2014, 09:57:51 pm
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Hey,
If you're looking to train power on a systems board on smaller holds would you full crimp (considering the additional risk to injury) or force the half crimp (though you're not at 100% power using this grip)?
Thanks for any thoughts
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Do a variety of crimps, half crimps, pockets, pinches... :shrug:
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Unless it was a dirty little crimp I'd try and half-crimp it. It's only training init? I do injure easily on crimps though, so I'm biased.
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Problem with that approach is you are only crimping in extremis, perhaps increasing the risk of injury. What A barrio the 81st says is the most sensible advice. Of you don't train crimp sometimes, ideally in a controlled environment i.e. on a system board, then you may end up more prone to crimp injuries.