UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: legin on February 18, 2011, 06:53:15 pm
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;) im new to bouldering and have developed a dull pain where my bicept muscle intersects with my elbow,ive had tendonitis in my forearm years ago and it feels similar.
i have allways weight trained and for my back do chin ups so its not like i havent got the upper strength.
any hints or tips from you regular guys on strength training or technique would be apreciated as im really enjoying my new found sport but my arm is holding me back
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It may be that you strained your brachialis. I got rid of mine by icing it. I froze water in yoghurt pots and pressed and rubbed the ice into the source of pain each night before bed.
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Did you stop or reduce the amount you were climbing while you were icing, shark?
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This isn't what I expected but I found that my bicep tendon issues got better when I started doing one armers. My thinking on this is that lowering down from a one armer is an eccentric bicep contraction. Maybe try eccentric bicep curls?
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Did you stop or reduce the amount you were climbing while you were icing, shark?
No.
I remember talking to Stu/Midgets about it at the time and formed the impression that is a type of injury that feels worse than it is and also that pain wasn't a good marker as to whether it was getting better or worse. It was lingering, annoying and painful though. The icing worked a treat. I have recommended this technique numerous times on here and over there but had no response if its worked well or not for anyone else.
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what flavour was the yoghurt?
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Did you stop or reduce the amount you were climbing while you were icing, shark?
No.
I remember talking to Stu/Midgets about it at the time and formed the impression that is a type of injury that feels worse than it is and also that pain wasn't a good marker as to whether it was getting better or worse. It was lingering, annoying and painful though. The icing worked a treat. I have recommended this technique numerous times on here and over there but had no response if its worked well or not for anyone else.
Well, I'll be starting tonight with my icing regime so I'll let you know how it goes! :)
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what flavour was the yoghurt?
Longley Farm Low Fat plain .. but that''s not important right now
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what flavour was the yoghurt?
Longley Farm Low Fat plain .. but that''s not important right now
:lol:
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cheers guys ive also been told to build my forearms up with reverse curls etc so ill give it a go now wheres that yogurt
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I've had this problem for about a year. I've been icing (not with yoghurt, frozen bag of washing up liquid instead) but it didn't seem to clear it up. More recently I've been experimenting with eccentric brachialis curls. Getting the weight just right seems to be key and it feels like they're helping. I have also been doing rotator cuff work and more recently overhead squats thinking all elbow injuries are really due to shoulder weakness. I suspect however the problem is also due to exceptionally poor movement technique.
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i had an issue with my elbow also (which seems too rear its ugly head now and then still)
i had 2 weeks off climibing which really sucked and took anti inflammatorys which got rid of it but like i say it seems too appear now and then again (only slightly)
id go for the shark mans idea ive heard ice is good, if mine comes back often ill be icing the bad boy up
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found out i had torn the tendon that joins the forearm muscle to the bicept i was told to rest it and ice it and use a pressure bandage.i was also warned that if i ignored it the tendon would repair itself tear then repair and i could end up with a build up of scar tissue,so be warned.if it hurts stop before it gets worse basically then ice and compress