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music, art and culture / Re: RIP
« Last post by GraemeA on Today at 03:07:35 pm »
Just been told that Adam Pepper has passed away. I don't know any details but someone has posted something on Adam's FB page (https://www.facebook.com/adam.pepper.94).

Condolences to his family especially Ben and Joe  :(
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conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) / Re: Forest rock
« Last post by Bradders on Today at 02:58:55 pm »
What's the situation with Lucid Interval following the hold breakage?
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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread
« Last post by Johnny Brown on Today at 02:33:59 pm »
I can't speak for Jase but was never really steeped in British climbing culture. I am very attached to the British landscape, but not so much the population or culture. When I moved to Sheffield I found the scene pretty uninspiring tbh, was never a Ben and Jerry fanboi either.

What I am very attached to is the idea that trad climbing is, at it's core, about self-reliance and freedom. By this I mean the rock is left for others to choose their own adventure on, not 'made' into climbs. I'm not sure this is even an accepted British thing, it seemed to be implicit when I was a youth, but not so much any more. I took my son up the east face of Tryfan for the first time this weekend and, despite its long history of being climbed on, we didn't see a single piece of fixed gear of any kind. Almost anywhere else I've been climbing in the world that wouldn't have been the case. I hosted lots of foreign climbers on International meets in the noughties and despite being accomplished climbers, they were often surprised that many routes had no fixed gear at all. They were always impressed by this, and on more than one occasion remarked that 'every ascent is like a first ascent'. I think this is worth preserving on its own merits, not special because its British. Even in Britain it now seems to be a constant battle against a majority view that trad climbs are where you don't put all the bolts in so that punter tradsters can indulge themselves in placing cams.

E grades, honestly, are a more head than heart thing for me. I think they work fine and it annoys me when people say they don't. But mainly that's because, like the YDS example above, I've always measured trad grades to trad routes, whereas I've done next to no easy sport climbing so have no reference.
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I can assure you it doesn't feel that way from the view of many key volunteers and especially not so for staff. If people are serious about  leaving just as the finances and GB climbing are being sorted out, it's certainly going to impact those BMC stalwarts even more (and as for those who were involved with mismanagement but have now left the BMC: it will have no impact at all).

BMC leadership are custodians for what's important: the BMC work outside of governance.

It's not all been bad: there are more access staff FTEs now than pre covid.
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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread
« Last post by spidermonkey09 on Today at 01:54:59 pm »
I can see where Pete is coming from. I think Northern yob and JB might feel a particularly strong identification with being a "British trad climber," steeped in the culture, history and yes, the grading system of it. They grew up, if I'm guesstimating their ages correctly, in the glory days of British trad and when British climbers were expanding the sport overseas, the era of hard grit, Ben and Jerry, the idea that British climbing and particularly grit is somehow special. I can see how one might, consciously or subconsciously, kick a bit against the perception that the grading system, which embodies the uniqueness of the British climbing scene, was being homogenised in some way. We saw something similar a month or so back when Ted K was concerned about Rockfax ceasing to use tech grades in their guides (turned out to be not true.)
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conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) / Re: Forest rock
« Last post by remus on Today at 01:34:49 pm »
Haven't been myself but looks pretty dry based on this https://www.instagram.com/p/C6oggbKNV8j/ I think you'd have to get very unlucky with condensation to not have a decent session there tomorrow.
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conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) / Re: Forest rock
« Last post by Dexter on Today at 01:13:25 pm »
Hi all, anyone been recently and know how it looks? Thinking of popping in tomorrow as I'm driving past.
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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread
« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 12:51:34 pm »
Spoken like a true Brexiter petejh ! ;)
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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread
« Last post by Johnny Brown on Today at 12:44:55 pm »
Quote
I think British trad climbing has roots in/is influenced by the British class system, because it's unavoidable like the water you swim in (and something I don't like which is perhaps why I'd be happy for the E-grade to be adjusted to get rid of the tech part)

Interesting perspective! Can you expand, I'm not seeing the links myself? Obviously mountaineering has upper-class roots in the Uk, but by the time tech grades were imported (from font, in the seventies right?) my impression was that a lot of the movers and shakers were working class.

Otherwise, yeah some of that is true, some of the time. I don't think it's the whole story at all. I don't think I'm particularly 'attached to... a wider idea of being British', for starters.
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Everyone criticising the BMC, that I have seen, has shown a lot of support for volunteers and most of the staff

Thr criticism is almost always the leadership (fair), the running of GB Climbing (also fair), and the financial controls (extra mega fair) which have all been rather poor to say the least. Saying "the BMC does other good stuff!" Is neither here nor there. We know. It's the stuff that is bad that is getting the criticism. And the BMC needs to actually sort that out.
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