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news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by Johnny Brown on Today at 08:19:34 am »Quote
mo, trad grades should, as a minimum, give you an idea of how "onsightable" a route is, and that an equal number of bold climbers should be able to climb an E4 5c, as good crack/face/technical climbers should be able to I'm an E4 6a...
I always think the hypothetical "balanced trad climber" should have an equal chance of onighting all E4s.
Oh jeez. Well you’ve done well to summarise the problem, which is people wanting an E grade to be like a sport grade, so they can say ‘I CLIMB E4’ and not have some weird exceptions bugging them.
The wonderful thing about Uk grades is they have two halves. E4 5a tells you it’s death on a stick. E4 7a tells you it’s desperate, but short-lived AND not dangerous. Just because you don’t fancy either despite normally liking E4s doesn’t make them wrong.
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the overall difficulty includes the danger bit, obviously. ie: the second one would probably be at least E8 as it would have a top end Font 7B+ boulder problem a very long way off the ground.
Sorry, I meant overall physical difficulty, but yeah I agree, makes sense.
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The first one is a 7B+ boulder problem with a much easier finish (which to me, I wouldn't bother giving an E grade, but if insisted on, then the only one that would make sense is E6 or perhaps E7).
Makes no sense. Again: the 7a already tells you it’s really hard. Your E6 or 7 is a bizarre attempt to translate into some overall sport grade. That not the point of E grades. It’s E4.