UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: tomtom on November 23, 2014, 12:00:48 pm
-
STG to go Climbing
M: Woke up to really bad back pain - took 5 min to get out of bed and 20 min to get dressed... Booked a visit to a physio just around the corner for that evening... Cannot even reach bottom of quads when trying to touch toes..
Went to Physio - long diagnosis session.. She suggested it wasnt: Arthritis, Disc problems (no slipped discs) - but lower back stiffness linked with a pulled/strained glute/piriform. 1/2 hour of extremely painfull yet strangely satisfying massage followed.. went home and had to lie down for an hour.. Told no climbing at all... Given a set of exercises to work on - all for lower back strengthening and glute stretches..
My back/arse compaint is best described as someone stabbing me deep in the hip when trying to transition between standing up and sitting down.
Tu: Early start - 2:30 train ride to Newcastle. Whole day sat in meetings. Whole evening sat in restaurant. 2-3 miles walking. Not good for the back. I became 45.
We: Full day of meetings/stuff. Managed to stand at the back (after explaining I had a bad back and wasnt trying to be menacing) which felt better. Managed some exercises in the Hotel in the morning and evening (Premier inn do hoover their carpets quite well. Thankfully). Had borrowed MrsTT's electric heat pack thingy - which provided much comfort on the area overnight...
Thu: Full day of meetings/stuff and train back to Manchester...
Fr: Took 20 min to make it out of the bedroom. Now established that the best method to get out of bed is to roll onto front, drop knees onto floor and then gradually move from all fours to standing over a few min... days of travel/meetings have taken their toll.. Struggled through day up to a Physio appointment at 4... Tried some deadhangs (30 secs worth) and it made my lower back hurt.
Felt like I took a beating in physio... she said my flexibility had improved - and provided me with some new stretches to try. Narrowed pain down to my piriform (I may have mistakenly thought glut earlier) - but spent ages working my lower back and also hamstring - which was really tight probably from compensating...
Went to dinner and cinema in the evening.. Nearly cried at dinner as it was hurting so much - it faded and we should have gone back but I wanted to see Interstella (and it was my birthday treat!). Probably a bad idea... waves of agony and calm ensued during the viewing. Should have gone home where I could shift my position/use heat packs more...
Sat & Sun. Getting up and trying to do as little as possible to aggravate the back. Its really hard, as lying down for long periods (ie overnight) makes my leg/arse/thigh really hurt - it stiffens right up. Sitting down for more than 20-30 min does the same.. so I am just standing / loitering around all the time. Walking medium distances seems OK. Easing off in the morning now...
Well climbing is well and truly out for now.. trying to manage my back/arse so I can just do normal daily things and meet some of my work commitments is my main aim at the moment. Not driven for 10 days - god knows how that will be...
-
That's awful tomtom. :( Hopefully you'll be back on the rock before too long.
STG- Finger rehab. Time for new goals I think! :2thumbsup:
2014 goals- 20 11 E-points, back to 7th grade in sport (won't happen) and bouldering.
LTG- 8a sport, classic trad routes that currently seem way out of my league.
M- Nothing
T- Nothing
W- Nothing
T- Physio. Describing the progress the massage and stretching have made to my fingers in a month I realise I've come on leaps and bounds in a very short time. Physio thinks so too and notices that my middle PIP joints are visibly improved and that my posture and wrist flexibility are too. Gives me some spine mobilisation exercises to do that should, in combination with the stretching, ensure that I don't get recurrences of the finger/ elbow/ wrist problems that have affected me for years. Says I don't need a follow-up appointment. YYFY :dance1:
F- Nothing.
S- Faced with a horrific weather forecast and a day working this weekend decide to go to the comp at the Depot, thinking it will be a fun and light-hearted way to see mates and have a laugh. Get there to find that there's barely anyone from Nottingham and that the atmosphere is very serious and tense. :unsure:
This is the first time I've ever done a comp apart from "pay an extra quid to fill in a comp sheet" weekly league things and anyone who pays attention to my posts on here will be familiar with my general apathy for, propensity to spanner myself on and general rubbishness at indoor climbing. Set myself a goal of 200 points (from a possible total of 300 from 30 problems)- anyone who pays attention to my posts on here will also be familiar with my almost complete inability to hit targets I set for myself. Manage 205 points, flashing problem 22 and doing problem 24, a mantle thing that most people around my level consider nails. ;D Considering I've been recovering from injury for 11 months this is amazing. I climbed without any worry for my fingers and experienced no pain or side-effects during or after.
S-Working from home.
Confirmation both from a medical professional and the cruel bastard that is indoor climbing that, as long as I keep doing my preventative stuff, I'm over my finger problems this week. ;D Now all I need is for it to stop raining so I can go rock climbing.
-
Sorry to hear you're injured TomTom
November Goals
Find a UK project (7c+) to work
Go Trad climbing
Climb a V8 indoors
Winter Goals
Climb 7c+
Any taped boulder on Biscuit Factory 50 degree board
Mon - Bouldering. Progress on White on 50º Board. A couple of other V6's.
Tue - Rest
Wed - AnCap.
Thu - Rest
Fri - Woke up late and missed session
Sat - Nothing
Sun - AnCap Session i should have done Friday.
Ok week, feeling the effects of sticking with AnCap.
Fairly major YYFY, quit my job, off climbing around Europe for the foreseeable future from March...
-
STG - ?
LTG - 7A by 50
Mon- Tues - Nothing, had vague plans to go to the wall, but it's a long way from where I was working this week.
Wed - Finally got to the wall, everything had been reset for a comp, so I did a lot of easy stuff as I was feeling tired.
Thur- nothing
Fri - 3 sets BM
Sat - Made couscous for 10/ banned from climbing.
Sun - Spent the week planning to go to Elephant, but thanks to Mr Rginns video I changed my mind at the last minute and went to look at the red circuit at cul du chien. The weather looked excellent, that was until I got to Roche aux sabots, the whole place was dripping with condensation. Carried on to Cul du chien which wasn't much better, a couple of bits were in the sun, but all the top-outs were wet. Spent more time cleaning sand off my shoes than anything else. I still can't find the end of the red circuit.
-
STG: DWS project.
MTG: ?
LTG: V11
M: Rode up to Sydney for job interview/meeting. Went well. Went to home of Sydney bouldering, Lindfield Rocks afterwards. Met up with a mate from Bristol. Played around doing all the classics, lots of highball stuff, all pretty technical. All up to V4 including a few V4 flashes. Rode back home. Knackered.
T:
W:
T:
F: DWS. 50m 7a traverse at high tide... Shoes got abit wet... and V3. 1 attempt on project. Very good attempt too. Felt like 1 inch reach from sloper. Just need to udge a tiny bit more out of my shoulders to get it... Offered rope work starting Monday morning.
S: DWS. 50m 7a traverse, 2x V3s. 2 attempts. Both good attempts. Controlled reach not far off it. Slowly slowly catchy monkey...
S: Rode up to Sydney.
-
Tom Tom, I used to have lots of problems with piriformis based back/hip/leg pain and it did go away. Buy a lacrosse ball and use it to self massage the buttocks, hips and lower back area. It greatly helps with getting everything relaxed and not so painful. It kills when you do it but I find it reduced the proper pain. Get used to changing postion at work every 15 mins or so. Swiss ball, kneelling at a desk instead of sitting, regular stretching etc etc during the day can really help.
I would do this sort of stretch every 20 mins or so thorough out the day to help ease it off:
http://www.fitness.com/exercises/uploaded/generated/knee_to_chest_glute_stretch_1.jpg (http://www.fitness.com/exercises/uploaded/generated/knee_to_chest_glute_stretch_1.jpg)
Of course all the details could be different for you but the Lacrosse ball self massage against a wall is a wonderfull thing.
-
Sounds rough TomTom. I had something similar a couple of years ago, but it sounds like I was lucky: muscle relaxants and piriformis stretching sorted it out in a few days. But no fun while it lasted: even rolling over in bed was a complicated manoeuvre requiring considerable planning.
-
STG (2014): Another decent day or two on rock this year, weather permitting.
Indoor 7a redpoint.
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
First Nik tells me I should redpoint 7b next year, then Alex Megos' coach tells me which 7b's I should redpoint. The pressure of expectation builds ...
M:
T: Wall, Gilching, Routes. Short session: 3 x 5c warm up, 2 x 6b os, 2 x 7a proj attempts.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen, Routes. 3 x 5c warm up, 5 x 6b/+ os attempts with only two successes - quickly became clear that I used up the week's power endurance yesterday - 5c 6a warm down.
T: Off work with the first heavy cold of the winter. Hoping to recover in time for good weather forecast and (another) possibly last climbing day of the year on Saturday. Half an hour forearm massage, foam rolling & stretching, knee physio exercises etc.
F: Training seminar with Patrick Matros (Gimme Kraft co-author, coach of Alex Megos). Lots on the importance of shoulder etc. mobilisation, stabilisation, effective antagonist strengthening (i.e. not therabands) We went through quite a few of the exercises from Gimme Kraft, but with more explanation of the whys and wherefores. Worthwhile. Afterwards over pizza picked up some tips for the Frankenjura 7b aspirant.
S: Sport climbing, Ammergau Alps. Another glorious autumn day, complete with sunbathing, but the lime is seeping quite a bit now. Nothing spectacular to report, but some good routes done including a 6c redpoint second go, and a 6b onsight that was quite possibly the best limestone slab pitch I've ever done*.
S: Beastmaker 7 sets. Knee physio exercises, mobility, shoulders, core.
* This might sound like damning with faint praise, but it isn't meant as such.
-
TomTom - I had an issue with my glute last year and it caused no end of issues with my hamstrings and back. When it was fixed, everything just fell into place, so stick with whatever physio you've to do and it will all come good... really sorry you're having such a tough time.
csl - Nice work on heading off in March :)
-
Pretty crap week to be honest - a climbing mate was diagnosed with cancer on Monday, added to my lodger's mum finding out she has breast cancer. Sort of overshadowed most everything. Work was full on.
STG - Nov. Keep up mileage and work on power.
MTG - Spring. Focus on strength indoors. Have a decent grit season... lead a Brown and Whillans route!
LTG - Next Oct. Take 18 months off and go climbing! Spain for 6 months. Goal - f7a and not a soft one.
Mon - Rest.
Tue - Worked late.
Wed - Aerocap 45min. Yoga. Okay, beasted myself this week in the class. Tried far too hard and left feeling battered, certainly unable to have a boulder after.
Thu - Routes with above mate, so mind was off the boil and was pretty knackered. Climbed badly. Led a 5+, 6a, flashed 6a, flashed 5, 5+ and then did some bouldering after for an hour or so.
Fri - Tired. Went to bed 9.30pm... woke up 13hrs later. Most unlike me.
Sat - Worked. Then quick aerocap session 1x 30min, 6min rest, 1x15min. Sweaty!
Sun - Bouldering. Stanage Far Right at lunchtime and Burbage North before dark. Went more to spend some time with above mate and friends. Sociable day but not really stuff I climb on usually. Overhanging, couldn't see my feet at times and I found it tough. Wore my new Instinct slippers - I think I'm gonna like them.
All the aerocap has finally sorted the flash pump in the left arm. Two bloody years that's held me back - seen coaches, tried most everything else other people have told me to do including 'just go climbing' but after just two months of focused aerocap, I'm fixed. So from next month, I'll drop this down to one session a week and focus on getting stronger, today really showed how feeble I am when I need to lock off and how lacking I am in overhanging technique.
-
Sun - Spent the week planning to go to Elephant, but thanks to Mr Rginns video I changed my mind at the last minute and went to look at the red circuit at cul du chien. The weather looked excellent, that was until I got to Roche aux sabots, the whole place was dripping with condensation. Carried on to Cul du chien which wasn't much better, a couple of bits were in the sun, but all the top-outs were wet. Spent more time cleaning sand off my shoes than anything else. I still can't find the end of the red circuit.
Oops, I do hope I don't take too much of the blame! ;) Did you get much done? The end of the reds are hiding in the trees, not the easiest to navigate it must be said...
Did you try 'Verglas Frequent' by any chance? I found it nails... Great place :2thumbsup:
-
Thanks Sam, Meunchener and Kelvin - also the DM advice that was very useful.
Rolling my arse on a ball is initially painful but ultimately great... Therapist recommended it last week but I didn't really try it much until today. Sadly the only balls we have are cat toys! So the moggie is a bit upset...
Excerxises include that one Sam.. Bizarrely I've stiffened up in the last week - when it first came in I could ease into a child position now I'm nowhere close. Meunchener - what muscle relaxants? Ibuprofen etc..?
-
Meunchener - what muscle relaxants? Ibuprofen etc..?
Heavy prescription stuff from the emergency GP. (Looks in cupboard: Musaril/Tetrazepam. Looks in wikipedia: banned since 2013. :'()
Regarding the arse rolling: I've been using tennis balls and a broomstick wrapped with pipe lagging as my foam rolling / self massage equipment for years. Decided recently to let myself be ripped off and buy a proper purpose-designed Blackroll™ roller, and bloody hell it's a lot better.
Rolling etc. might be a bit much if things are still in spasm. I found piriformis stretches in a very hot bath were good.
-
Season 1 of periodised plan. Coming to end of strength phase now. Aiming for Tyranny in early Jan: http://www.facebook.com/VerticalLifeMag/photos/a.130376693747084.24668.130273447090742/650175825100499/?type=1 (http://www.facebook.com/VerticalLifeMag/photos/a.130376693747084.24668.130273447090742/650175825100499/?type=1)
M - Hangboard session #4
Tu - Rest
We - Rest
Th - Hangboard session #5
F - rest
Sa - domestic day, went for a long walk with the gf for her fitbit challenge then out for NOFX at the Tiv in the evening. Amazing gig!! Highlight was definitely seeing the decline live for the first time + lots of fun in the pit :dance1:
Su - Hangboard session #6 - surprisingly good session despite having a dead right bicep from the mosh pit. Progressed resistance on all grips but found my failure point on small edges and monos.
I'm climbing at the wall tonight for fun then I have one last hangboard session on Wednesday before the power phase kicks off on Saturday
Weight - 70.8 average but 71.6 this morning. This week coming is my last week of unrestricted eating and drinking then it's out with chocolate and booze (within reason) through December
-
Sun - Spent the week planning to go to Elephant, but thanks to Mr Rginns video I changed my mind at the last minute and went to look at the red circuit at cul du chien. The weather looked excellent, that was until I got to Roche aux sabots, the whole place was dripping with condensation. Carried on to Cul du chien which wasn't much better, a couple of bits were in the sun, but all the top-outs were wet. Spent more time cleaning sand off my shoes than anything else. I still can't find the end of the red circuit.
Oops, I do hope I don't take too much of the blame! ;) Did you get much done? The end of the reds are hiding in the trees, not the easiest to navigate it must be said...
Did you try 'Verglas Frequent' by any chance? I found it nails... Great place :2thumbsup:
I already had Verglas Frequent in mind, your vid just tipped the balance. Which direction in the trees should I be looking? I can find up to no. 20.
-
Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Board repeated a couple of old problems, then worked a couple of projects.
Thu. Turbo 1 hour. Big Country at Lincoln Drill Hall.
Fri. Day off a bit hungover. Bike 69.76 miles 3 hrs 57 mins17.59mph. Windy and cold felt battered afterwards.
Sat. Board. 15 problems to warm up then 6 problems 5 times.
Sun. Board repeated a session from this time last year. Turbo 1 hour.
-
84.5Kg (weight on the up, due to exceptional levels of troughing...need to put a lid on it)
M -
T - P.M. School. 30 and 50 degree. Did my first 7C since re-opening - Mr Blobby the Swing Man. Psyched! 40 press ups.
W -
T - Lunch. Peak for a work-related 'photo shoot' on The Rasp at Higgar. Warmed up at Burb bridge and Remergence. Benchmarked on Blind Date - felt easy.
F - Lunch. Foundry Wave with Katherine. Mileage on new problems. Didn't feel v strong.
S - A.M. School. Various, linked middle 3 moves of wooden 7C+ on big board. 40 press ups.
S -
Still no structure whatsoever! Didn't do any strength work. Still improving on steep wood. Maybe I don't need to do any specific f/boarding when mostly I'm bouldering on brutally steep boards that are fingery for the most part?
-
11.7-9
M. Systems board
T. AM Fingerboard PM Physio
W.
T.PM Physio
F.
S,
S.
On tuesday I went to physio (not Hallamshire) for a second session to massage the tightness out of my neck. Unfortunately in the process he damaged a nerve which left me unable to raise my arm laterally to 90 degrees. By Wednesday there was no improvement so went back on Thursday for a little more work. As of this morning there has been some improvement in my range of movement and I am due back at the physio later this morning. Obviously this has scuppered training and climbing this week and like a true athlete I have taken advantage of this by guzzling food and wine.
-
LTG: Font 7b
Actually managed something like some activity last week, feel like I'm getting back into a routine.
M: Gym on lunch, deadlifts
T: Depot after work, nice session doing new wood circuit probs (easier end of V4-V6 range) and flashing most of them
W: Rest day
T: Gym on lunch, more deadlifts
F: Gym on lunch, inspired by Gym Jones video I'd seen did 3 sets of 3 min row all out / 10 shoulder presses, then 3 sets of 3 min box jump burpees / 10 bicep curls. That was quite hard.
S: Nowt
S: Depot with Una in the afternoon, didn't get that much done as I was flitting between keeping an eye on her and quickly doing a problem
Feeling better now I'm actually getting to the gym / wall after a month or so of disruption. Want to add a front squat into my lunchtime gym routine now but need to start with working out if I can actually achieve one with my knackered posture!
-
Still no structure whatsoever! Didn't do any strength work. Still improving on steep wood. Maybe I don't need to do any specific f/boarding when mostly I'm bouldering on brutally steep boards that are fingery for the most part?
Worked for Gaskins.
-
Sun - Spent the week planning to go to Elephant, but thanks to Mr Rginns video I changed my mind at the last minute and went to look at the red circuit at cul du chien. The weather looked excellent, that was until I got to Roche aux sabots, the whole place was dripping with condensation. Carried on to Cul du chien which wasn't much better, a couple of bits were in the sun, but all the top-outs were wet. Spent more time cleaning sand off my shoes than anything else. I still can't find the end of the red circuit.
Oops, I do hope I don't take too much of the blame! ;) Did you get much done? The end of the reds are hiding in the trees, not the easiest to navigate it must be said...
Did you try 'Verglas Frequent' by any chance? I found it nails... Great place :2thumbsup:
I already had Verglas Frequent in mind, your vid just tipped the balance. Which direction in the trees should I be looking? I can find up to no. 20.
Sorry for the :off: everyone...
Tricky, I could point to it if I was stood there!
OK... if you're under the classic 'toit' 7A, facing out, it's diagonally right - 50 yards ish? It's the only bouldering sized blocks in the vicinity.
You could work your way rightwards from the toit along the edge of the desert and then back left along faint paths.
Sort of in a dip.
-
For some reason this wk I've dropped 2Kg which seems improbable given the food I've been consuming recently...
Good week overall, I'm currently very psyched which has boosted motivation to either train or get outside at every opportunity.
63 Kg
STG = Consolidate 7A, get a few established Lancs classic 7A/+s ticked by the end of winter.
MTG = 7B - By this time next year it will be good to have done at least one quarry based 7B.
LTG = 7C ha ha ha ha ha ha although I've given myself until I'm 40 (7 yrs).
M = Lunchtime short (25 min) session at Brownstones: tried Big Muff, this still feels a way off for now. Went over to Pigswill and found a better way to get established on the hold: progress made.
Evening - Fingerboard: Usual set - jug pull ups 4,6,8,10; flatty pull ups 4,6,8,10; deep pocket pull ups 3 fingers 3,4,5,6; shallow crimp hang 4 fingers (7:3), 3,4,5,6; shallow crimp hang 3 fingers(7:3), FAIL; deep pocket open hang 3 fingers (7:3) 4,4,6,8; deep pocket open front 2 (7:3) 2,3,4,6; mid 2-3 on other (7:3) 3,3,3,3; 1 arm pull up (+1 finger assist, deep pocket) 2,2 both arms
Ab Ripper X session (twinged back muscles on the oblique feet-ups. Need to be careful with this)
T = went to Eureka in Halifax with the family - I love this place! Science-tastic.
W = Lunchtime -mini session - climbed PIGSWILL 7A - see the YYFY thread, well chuffed to get this done, first proper Brownstones 7A . Being fresh really helped, got the stand up on the third go, then did the sitter next go. Even managed to repeat for the camera, woo!
Evening - 4.5k run in the dark!(slow: 23.59) lock off practice - (seconds) 12,15,15,15,15
T = rest
F = Evening - pull ups 1 min on / 1 min off - 20,16,11,10,11,10,8 total = 86, time 13 mins.
S =evening 5k run in the dark and wet again, so slow: (28:58) otherwise rest / eating cake
S = evening - late night Crusher board session as above, 1.5 hours - but I felt stronger and could hang the 3 finger crimp - ok, only 6 reps, but improvement nonetheless. Also I did a proper set on the 2 finger hangs both front 2 and the middle 2.
lock off session (seconds) 15,15,16,15,15,18
Observations: I was really pleased to get one of the winter ticklist done so quickly, and it felt easy although this could be rose tinted... super keen to get on my other projects now.
managed to get running twice which is good. I've felt stronger on the fingerboard this week, and decided to add some pull up and lock off sessions into the mix.
I've realised I'm pathetically weak on 3 finger crimp hangs - I don't have a problem open handed which is weird since all my climbing is quarry based. I really can't explain this.
Also I need to be careful to warm up properly and not get carried away with the hangs / pull ups as my old wrist injury sometimes spasms on the higher intensity hangs. Just need to be aware of this.
I'm actually getting out little and often to the crag, so I'm not too concerned that the majority of my in-house training has been on other stuff (fingers/arms/core) as opposed to climbing move related training.
In other news, I've put the second board on the 10 degree, so only the top bit and it's done: The crusher holds are in the post: can't wait to get them on!
-
like a true athlete I have taken advantage of this by guzzling food and wine.
I got a shock this morning when I saw your doppelganger getting out of a BMW estate and heading in to McDonald's
hopefully you haven't drifted into my anti-athlete mode
-
Everybody's hustling
-
-
T - P.M. School. 30 and 50 degree. Did my first 7C since re-opening - Mr Blobby the Swing Man. Psyched!
I remember the name but not the problem. Effort.
-
like a true athlete I have taken advantage of this by guzzling food and wine.
I got a shock this morning when I saw your doppelganger getting out of a BMW estate and heading in to McDonald's
hopefully you haven't drifted into my anti-athlete mode
If it's the one on Queens Road then I was just going in for a McPiss tm
-
like a true athlete I have taken advantage of this by guzzling food and wine.
I got a shock this morning when I saw your doppelganger getting out of a BMW estate and heading in to McDonald's
hopefully you haven't drifted into my anti-athlete mode
If it's the one on Queens Road then I was just going in for a McPiss tm
McChinny-recon.... ;)
-
that's what they call their coffee?
-
I got an aeropress for my birthday :) ideal for some field barista-ing
-
guess you don't need me any more then :boohoo:
-
guess you don't need me any more then :boohoo:
I imagine I'll need some lessons and a patisserie tester.. ;)
-
STG -
regain mobility to be able to return to work 11/18, be able to rock climb again
MTG - Planet of the Apes (7A+) at Joes in April
LTG - Checkerboard, Stained Glass, Mandala
M - rested
T - worked 12 hrs, some pain, survivable
W - worked 10 hrs, had to leave 2 hrs early :(
T - rested
F - rested. Follow up appt with ortho, said I can climb again in 1 week. :) Then went to the dermatologist who turns out to be :shit: - Stupid me believed his recommendation and let him cut on me - He made two 6cm incisions in my back to remove two moles that were no more than 6mm each; not even cancerous; 6 stitches each, then said no climbing for two weeks. >:( Met Squatch for a beer and discussed training which was awesome and informative. Thanks again Squatch!
S - Worked 12 hours - now my ankle feels ok but my back hurts. Came to find out the holes in my back were not actually medically indicated, apparently this dermo recommends stuff like this all the time to people like me who dont need it. And he cuts out way more than necessary because he gets paid by the cm. He is well known as a money hungry quack. :furious:
S - Worked 12 hours. fumed.
Going crazy. Cant wait to climb. Will try some fingerboards this week, hopefully its ok on the sutures in my back.
-
STG: Ben's groove, Fight on black, Fractal, Ju ju club,
MTG: 7C, all the 7B+s at Caley
LTG: Zoo york, Jason's roof, Heaven in your hands, Rhythm??
M - rest (after a weekend climbing in Wales)
T - lamp session Almscliff - managed Matterhorn SDS 7B+ :)
W - rest
T - lamp session Almscliff - SS to pebble wall, got spanked by Streaky's
F - Ab ripper x
S - Grim weather so Almscliff - couldn't quite stick the top of fractal, next time.
S - Ilkley - ticked Olicana arete and opened an account for Super Set, keen to get back.
Just put up a beastmaker but I've a tweaky finger so I don't dare use it yet.
Plan - ice ice ice, antagonistic training and not getting (more) injured.
-
Pyrosis did you look at the size of the mole when he took it out? My girlfriend had one removed about a mth ago, 6mm on surface but she said it was massive when the doc showed her after he took it out. She was shocked! She's been left with a 5cm ish scar and she couldn't exercise for 10 days, or get it wet etc. Sounds similar
-
STG Do something climbing related that doesn't involve the BM
MTG Either cave project and 8c
LTG Fuck it 9a
M BM session. Unweighted. Can't remember exactly what I did...
T nothing
W BM session. Tried long hangs. Did one minute hangs two handed on all holds down to bottom row shallow two finger. The did 30s middle finger monos and 20s ring finger monos, 45s and slopey two finger.
T swimming 40 lengths
F tried to cross train by going to a judo class (first time ever) my impression that there probably is a degree of crossover in terms of upper body/grip workout but unfortunately the group is only small and the other three adult males are all at least twice my weight. I'll probably give it another go cos it as bit of a laff but a training session it wasn't...
S diy fuck
S daddy daycare on the mintiest day of recent memory. Did 10 sets of 40 pushups. Which is 400 in total, hmmm didn't quite clock that at the time, might have been a bit much...
Not a classic week. Need to get out this weekend if at all possible.
-
TomTom- That sounds horrific. Hope you start healing soon!
Cheque - Fantastic news on the finger. ;D
Habrich - Glad to hear the knee is getting better. maybe?
Shark - Bummer on the neck issue.
There's a lot of injury stuff going around. Hope everyone gets healthy and fit soon.
My post will be a long one as it's also a trip report :) WARNING LOADS OF SPRAY :)
STG - Mandala - CHECK :dance1:
MTG - Break and body rehab, then start route training
LTG - To Bolt or Not to Be, 8a OS, and 3-5 new local routes in the 8th grade
In Bishop all week -
M- Climbing Day 3
Warmed up in the afternoon on the top of Fall Guy (an ultra-classic highball v9 that backs up to a other boulder, so you actually top out at around 3 feet high :) ), Then Psuedo-flashed it from the start (The top is maybe v2/3 for about 6-7 big moves on good holds, which I did three times to warm up, then I sent it first go from the start.) Rested for a bit, then headed back to the smooth shrimp boulder to re-warmup for Mandala. Did a couple laps on Perfectly Chicken-v5, and Smooth Shrimp v6, then on to Mandala. Did the bump move over and over, but kept having my left foot pop off the jug. really frustrating, and the crux left crimp felt slick. Then headed up the hill to Saigon Direct-v9 3rd go. Got dark, so headed to the Happies for a night session. Failed miserably on Acid wash right.... Too tired. Also started coming down with a cold today.
T - Rest - Sick with a cold.
W- Climbing Day 4
Fighting a cold. Started day warming up for Mandala again. Warmed up on the Bachar problem Right and Left -Stout v5's. Then headed to Smooth Shrimp boulder again. Did a few laps on the 5 and 6. Then a few burns to send Bubba Gump-v10, then down to the Mandala again. Same problem as the last two days. Couldn't get the left foot to stick. Extremely frustrating. The foot is actually a really good incut foot, that should be easy to keep, but for some reason, it just wouldn't stay. I felt strong, and my body felt good. I would get the crux left crimp, and when i would go for the right hand intermediate, my foot would just kick out. REALLY Aggravating. :wall: :wall: :wall:
Headed down and flashed the Sharma Scoop-v8, and sent Letting Go - v10 in a few tries. Headed over and re-climbed a nice v2 highball called the Hunk, and also ran a quick lap on High Plains Drifter-v7. Then I headed down to check out Alex Megos trying Lucid Dreaming. He was really close and did all of the moves, but I don't think he sent.... Then I headed over to Dale's camp to check out Xavier's roof. I climbed it to the lip move, and just couldn't get my foot up to press out the mantel. Need to improve my flexibility :( Then went down and flashed Gastonia-v8, and did Cuban Roll-v4. Then headed back to the Happies to see if I could end the day by firing off Acid Wash Right-v9, which happily felt much better in the daylight :)
Th - Rest - Try to get over cold. definitely pushed too hard yesterday.
F - Rest - feeling better, but still a bit sick.
S- Climbing Day 5
Felt much better in AM. Really good nights sleep finally. Had a nice long warmup. Started the day off at Roadside highball-v3, Roadside rail v3-v5ish, and an unnamed v0,v2, and v4 on the Roadside boulder. Then went and climbed a rarely climbed problem called Heavy Grit-v7 (good name as well- very painful ), and then did Gleaming the Cube-v8 in a few goes. A friend of mine who lives in Bishop showed up who I was stoked to climb with and we headed back to smooth shrimp to finish warming up again. I did the 5 and 6, then did repeated Cocktail Sauce-v10 as the final bit of warming up. Then got back on Mandala.
It was partly cloudy and a good breeze, so the holds finally felt sticky :) I pulled on, reached up left to the gaston intermediate and bumped to the crux left hand crimp perfectly. I hit the intermediate and finally the foot stayed. I stepped the right foot up, hit the next intermediate, then went righthand for the ear and hit it perfectly. I walked the feet through feeling solid and hit the next small left hand crimp, starting to get nervous. I adjusted the feet and bumped the right hand in to another small crimp (this was my previous high point). I surfed the left hand out to the fingerbucket and stuck. My heart was instantly pounding and in my throat. I switched feet, matched the finger bucket and pianoed the fingers to get the right hand solidly in the finger bucket. I stepped the left foot high and fired for the lip. I hit the good sloper and knew it was over. I kicked the left heel up, matched, grabbed the bucket and manteled over. I was in shock and disbelief. I couldn't believe it. I had just climbed the Mandala.
The rest of the day was a total high, and fit the good feelings of the morning. My friend also sent cocktail sauce, which he'd never tried before and was pretty stoked. We headed down the hill toward Thunderbird-v11, which my friend wanted to try, and stopped by the Croft Problem-v8 which I managed to flash. We both got shut down by Thunderbird, although I felt like it would go if I could deal with the painful crimps.... Next stop was Haroun and the Sea of Stories-v11/12(the low start to Fall Guy which I had done earlier in the trip). I came close, but the sun started hitting a couple of the slopers, and it got too slick. Maybe next time. My friend tried Stained Glass Right, but was too worked from the earlier problems.
He had to head home, so I connected with some new friends and we headed to the Pollen Grains for the late afternoon session. We started off at the boulder with Suspended in Silence, which already had a good crowd. I did Lidija's Mouth, a really unique v3(super height dependent), then flashed Drone Militia-v6 (I'd say this problem is in the top 5 problems in the Buttermilks areas) and then flashed suspended in Silence-v6/7ish?. I'd heard all week that one of the holds on Suspended had broken the week before and was now much harder-in the v8/9 range. It didn't seem too bad to me, but only two of us were able to climb it out of the group, so maybe it is in that range.
While the rest of the crew was working Drone Militia, I grabbed a couple of pads and headed down to climb Jedi Mind Tricks-v4. This is a stellar highall v4 crimping techy face, and was so much fun i did it twice :) One of my new friends had highly recommended trying Return of the Jedi-v10 on the arete to the left of Jedi, so I decided to jump on that while I was there. I shocked myself by flashing it for my second v10 flash ever (the first was earlier in the trip on Cocktail Sauce). Still feeling good, I met the crew at the Finder's Fee boulder to do a few more classics. I managed a 2nd go send of Finder's Fee-v9, a Flash of Cindy Swank -v7/8, and broke a key patina hold on a v9 to the right of Finder's Fee, pitching off the top onto my back :) no harm no foul. I finished off with a couple of easy lines on the same boulder including the fantastic Cover Me With Flowers-v2.
We headed out after that to a spectacular sunset and a celebration dinner and Whiskey :)
S - Climbing Day 6
Seeing as this was my last Day, I decided to go through and climb a bunch of v8's and easier classics in the Milks. I warmed up with a few easy 2-3 star lines like Birthday Mantel-v0 and Sheepherder-v2, then headed to Hard Grit-v8, a funky arete line next to Ironman Traverse. After a bad choice for a heel on the first go, I managed to knock it out second go. Then I headed down to the Leary Bard Arete-v5 (A must do if you're visiting and in the range) for a quick repeat. Next up was Brian's Project-v8. This one felt really hard and nearly blew out my right hamstrong heelhooking, but I managed to pull it out after a few goes as well. Then I headed over to Soulslinger Right-v8. I was suprised at how good and how delicate this one was. I didn't know any of the beta and this one was pretty tricky, so this took a few goes to work out. Once I got the beta right though, it went down as well. Next up was a v7 called Pain Grain sit. despite the name this is actually a really good climb with a tricky topout. Then I finished out the day on the classic v0-Robinson's Rubber Tester, and then drove out of town at noon.
Big ticks for the trip were Mandala-v12 and La Ballette, which were my first two problems harder than v10 that were not an FA and flashing my first ever confirmed v10's.
This was without a doubt the best trip I've ever had, with success on big goals and overall climbing well.
I'm really glad I managed to end the season fit and on a HIGH note... Now for a few weeks off :)
-
OMFG
:punk:
-
Wow! What a trip. Nice write up of Mandela Sasq \o/
-
well done!
-
That is a mind crushing amount of climbing! You had an amazingly good week. I am inspired.
-
Strong strong strong
-
STG: rehab finger
MTG: classic 7B/+, try to get route climbing trip in around new year.
M. aerocap session, did 3x20 mins on the wall on easy problems. hard to get intensity right. I'm going to try to do this session once a week for the next while to start building endurance for a possible sport trip around the new year.
T.
W. decent indoor session, doing strength phase of medium volume of slightly less than max exercises. Continued with adapted fb routine that avoids middle finger crimping
T.
F. same as wed but a bit less volume
S. outdoors for the first time in a few weeks, got a good bit done considering that I'm a bit injured. I made progress on a tricky 7A+ which I would have done if not injured. The first move is crimpy and I was just about managing to openhand it but it was messing me up for the rest of the problem. Retro-flashed a 6C
S.
Had a decent week despite the injury which is not a2 as I'd thought but collateral ligament/extensor tendon, basically it doesn't matter though because it means no crimping either way. This is fine for training but outdoors it's pretty restrictive. I've also rearranged training days so I'm not cycling so far to the wall which is helping with general tiredness and hopefully will reduce future injuries.
-
Thanks all! It was a trip of ups and downs for sure. The cold was really annoying as I am normally really high energy, and I was not full of usual pep. Where it really impacted was in keeping psych high when things weren't clicking. Normally I'm optimistic, but this trip I was pretty down until the cold broke.
I will say there were two guys I met there who were really helpful with their never ending psych - Especially at the end of the week on Friday and Saturday. One was a low key, but ever positive guy by the name of H. The other was Dan Beall, a semi-local crusher who's done almost everything in the buttermilks, and was working the project to the right of Evilution. Hopefully he sends soon. I got to see him do it in overlapping sections, so he's SUPER close. It's definitely next level. Evilution is v10 to the lip, then either a v8 (Evilution) or v6 (Evilution Direct) move over the lip. This line is v14 to the lip, then a v10 crux over the lip. :o
-
--Sasquatch, what an epic trip!
Pyrosis did you look at the size of the mole when he took it out? My girlfriend had one removed about a mth ago, 6mm on surface but she said it was massive when the doc showed her after he took it out. She was shocked! She's been left with a 5cm ish scar and she couldn't exercise for 10 days, or get it wet etc. Sounds similar
I didn't look, perhaps that was the case. Still - the pathology said 'atypical - mild', they recommended removal which I did. Read more up on it after because - it sucked, found out the American College of Dermatology does not recommend removal for 'atypical - mild' so I am still angry, definitely won't go back to this dermo again.
-
Great Trip report, Sasquatch, and commiserations on the injury's everyone. This arse thing sounds horrendous Tomtom.
ST: Look after knee. Get scan and appointment wiht specialist.
MT: 7B and 8a.
LT: Avoid further problems with my knee.
Mon: Rest
Tues: FB Max Hangs, Rings Antagonist stuff, Foot on Campusing (one footed).
Wed: Elbow stuff
Thurs: Repeaters, Core, FOC.
Fri: Physio. Told I have probably seriously damaged meniscus, need a scan and will probably be looking at mid-long term recovery.
Sat: FB MH, Rings Antagonist stuff.
Sun: Repeaters, Back Lever stuff, Core, Some Foot on Campussing.
Going from getting out 3 days a week minimum to nothing with little prospect of climbing for a while is hard. I'm planning on getting out with gf this weekend. I guess I'll take a camera and a book but at least I'll be outside. Weather was lovely today. Probably need to start thinking of somethign to replace climbing other than dangling around and a few press ups, although I may try indoor routing one legged. I did intend these post to be more interesting than this, but there's obviously been a hitch.
-
Great report Sasquatch - you must have skin like a rhino!
-
I was thinking that. Both Bishop trips I couldn't climb more than 2 days in a row due to crap skin (but I did wear gloves every day for the preceding 6 months and did no climbing which probably didn't help)
-
...long list of awesomeness...
Holy shit Sasquatch, that was some trip - most inspiring!
-
Yes, I have remarkably good skin :) Mostly, I think it comes from 15 plus years of sharp granite abuse on the home crags. It's both toughened my skin, and also taught me to climb in a style that saves skin. It takes me quite a while to get into the sloper slapping and sliding that you do on sandstone.... I am also really careful of the skin though, and take really good are of it.
I was thinking that. Both Bishop trips I couldn't climb more than 2 days in a row due to crap skin (but I did wear gloves every day for the preceding 6 months and did no climbing which probably didn't help)
I almost never do two days on during a bouldering trip. I find neither my muscles nor skin can handle it, so I tend to do day on day off, but bigger days on.
This trip I did:
Thurs-Climb - short 1.5 hr session first day
Fri - rest
Sat - Climb
Sun - Rest
Mon - Climb
Tues - Rest
Wed - Climb
Thurs - Rest
Fri - Rest
Sat - Climb
Sun - Climb - skin hurt like hell, and didn't climb very well (relatively) but it was last day so figured go all out to the end.....
-
Incredible. Looking forward to seeing the video.
-
Awesome trip Sasquatch! Psyched for you! :dance1: