UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Bubba on February 25, 2004, 09:46:00 am
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In the near future, we're going to be doing a bolt-on holds review - Dave is going to review sets of holds on his brand spanky new woodie.
Can you think of any manufacturers we should contact?
Dave, who's on the list so far?
I've just been sent these nice wooden holds by R&R Starling - they reckon they will be around £2-£3 each and feel kind to the skin.
(http://ukbouldering.com/media/images/holds01.jpg)
(no, I know I'm no still-life photographer ;) )
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i like the one that looks like a speaker.
I'm currently reviewing moon, beacon and metolius, steve at holdz and tim wager are sending some holds when they get chance, and I'm going to chase up entreprise, bendcrete and rockworks.
If anyone knows dan french's number/email then PM me. Also does anyone know if PME are still in business? their website hasn't been updated since about 1997 but i think i saw some of their stuff in outside recently.
If anyone knows of any we've missed out then post up.
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So you get sent loads of freebies for your woody, sweeet. :up:
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Shhhhhhh. don't worry its not stopped me getting nose to the grindstone with the sander and jigsaw on some DP wooden specials (splinters come free).
Actually they are going to be spread across someone elses board anall, to try and get a consensus opinion. It should be good - when was the last time you read a bouldering hold review, or even an objective review (not an advertorial) in a mag?
peace out.
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Ive got a load on my woodie that i could review. Anything Dave doesnt have?
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part of the review adam is how well the companies know their market for boulderers - i.e. how well they respond to the initial brief (which i'll not go into here). so like if they send a load of jugs and some tiny screw-ons for a cellar board then they don't know their market very well. so for that reason its important to review only what they send for that purpose. It seems picky but already i've seen a lot of difference in how people respond to this which is very interesting. If we review holds you/me/anyone has already got then its a bit biased since you've already chosen what will be good for your board, its not all on a fair even keel so to speak. Plus if they were crap holds you probably wouldn't have bought them to start with. Hope that makes sense!
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Crystal :wink:
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P.S. Does anyone know if anyone is distributing Franklin honds in the UK? word.
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P.S. Does anyone know if anyone is distributing Franklin honds in the UK? word.
Ill text Mr Baxter and check for you. Might be a whiler though, as he is off to Iran today!
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word.
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i think (pretty sure) that franklin is distributed by black diamond.
me n some mates tried to get some but they were MEGA expensive, they are on the bord at ingleton and gotta say that they are mint. plus they make some new mega big sloperz. :D
they also make two tone holds, so the good grip is one colour and the not so good one another, quite good for thinkin up new probs.
good topic by the way, will deffo be building a woodie when i move back darn sarf, and hold info will be good.
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cheers for that i'll try and track them down.
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Holdfast slopers are really good, great texture and they take a realy long time to greese up (even at saunaesque climbing walls)!
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Ahhhhhh, that must be the guy who makes the moon/old S7 holds.
I'll get onto it.
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did i notice malcolms woody was all woody, in a long ago ote?
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wasn't his woody built before anyone even made resin holds?
of course the best thing is to have a variety, like some of wood some of plastic. i've just borrowed a belt sander the other day which makes mincmeat out of shaping wood holds. leaves your ears ringing though.
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any news/reviews yet?
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any news/reviews yet?
dave's gone to tick Ireland this week so you'll have to wait til he gets back to find out....
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I've just been sent these nice wooden holds by R&R Starling - they reckon they will be around £2-£3 each and feel kind to the skin.
where would one be able to get hold of those holds? they sound like pretty good value for money, and look very very nice :D
mrblue (who will get a woody built at some point.)
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Have PM'd you contact details of R & R Starling.
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Sorry mate - been really busy today - I've got their email unless T.H. has already give it to you...
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did i notice malcolms woody was all woody, in a long ago ote?
Is this his board http://www.1-5-9.com/ ?
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And in the short but excellent "Splinter" video.
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yes, was in the splinter vid not ote. sometimes i'm useful, but mostly...
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thanks bubba, but t.h. sent me the email through pm :) i'm going to get in contact with the guy as soon as i have enough money to burn. the holds look awesome... :D
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it was in ote, i remember that issue, b &w photo and some close ups of really sick holds...
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any news on these reviews, i need to get some holds for my (very soon to be...honest) woodie
ta
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Review is currently in the final stage, being written-up, which is a ballache cos i type slow and think even slower. If you need any hot tips on holds then give me a PM and i'll be happy to spill the science on you in advance.
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thanks