UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: groovedog on June 30, 2016, 05:41:32 pm
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Is the motherboard reset complete?
Climbing / trying to climb on it made me feel a reet punter!
I thought the original one was really good, why change and make the foot holds so bad? Why not have good foot holds and crap ones.
With foot holds that poor you end up on massive hand holds unless you climb 8A!
I'm all for working your weaknesses and being humbled a bit in training but in my mind it feels like its gone backwards?
The works could do with a decent woody setup like Foundry or Moon setup. The circuits board is great but you end up in the way of people doing circuits if you treat it like a woodie.
For the font 7a - 7b climber the new board seems pointless. You pay your membership and then its like 'oh heres the new board crack on...' leaves you feeling a bit sore! :-\
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Maybe climb on the other 95% of the surface area at the wall. The guy that built the board has climbed 2 8c's in a day, trained for by building a harder version of the one at the works. His partner who also trains on that board is leading the world cups quite convincingly and has climbed 8b+ outside, not to mention an mbe for services to cellars. It was noted that other people wanted a serious board to train on, this is what we got. If people forego the ego they will realise that this board is fucking fantastic!
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Get back to the school you know it's the way
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I thought the same when i first saw it but having had a quick 30 mins play last night with sam i think its great. Totally different to other boards and not really like real climbing but you can feel it working immediately. Feels like a cross between fingerboarding, campusing and doing leg raises.
30mins at the end of a climb and my fingers feel worked today.
Put away your ego and enjoy the challenge of getting up the board. I did it from stand (7A/+ish)but failed from sit. Must be 7B using anything to get up it form sit, sam thought 7B+. Sam described it as the aspirational board.
Plus i do think you will get used to it pretty quickly.
All in all a good addition to all the training stuff available in Sheffield. If you move around between the school, foundry and the works. I cant think of anything thats not covered.
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I know oracle I know, I wrestle with the thought every day but alas time doesn't permit me at the moment :(
What gme said.
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Does anyone have any photos of the boards new setup?
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I get the whole aspiration thing but there's still plenty of space for more holds. I also don't understand why the kickboard has been effectively eliminated, making all the problems shorter. In the current form I think it's pretty crippled compared to the old board, I know a bunch of people who used to train on it but can't anymore because it's impossible to get the intensity right. Horses for courses but I think a board should have as many holds as possible, it's not like that stops the wads making nails problems.
Also, I don't think it's fair to say that people need to put egos aside or whatever, it's a training tool that's become accessible and useful for a much smaller group of climbers. Suggesting that people climb on the rest of the walls instead is pretty unhelpful, I think you know full well there's almost no 45 degree panels at the works and that pre-set problems are generally pretty hopeless for high intensity training.
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The kickboard has been eliminated cos they didn't want to put any holds on it, this board is more to train core on every move. None of the problems are shorter, it's only your feet that are higher for the first move. Your hand holds are set at the same level they always were.
It appears no one can please anyone these days.
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I was pleased with the old board. With a few better footholds I'll be pleased with the new one too. With the old one you had the option of doing problems with the bolt on holds or just the little screw ons. I liked the variety that gave so hope it can be tweaked a bit
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I honestly think give it time. It's very different and very hard but the little go I had you can really feel it will work.
Give it a good few sessions then see if you fell the same.
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More holds have been added since the initial reset and more are on the way.
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When the original motherboard was built it only had really shit footholds and was similar to how Gav just described the new one. As in about 7A to get up it using everything. #notoehooks
It was brilliant and made everyone try harder. I could barely get up the thing but it inspired me and I got stronger (and obviously injured myself) by trying REALLY hard to climb on it.
Then they put decent footholds on it to make it more inclusive, which I thought was disappointing and ruined the whole point of the thing. I tried really hard to get to the top of the fucker and suddenly it's 6B?
New board sounds great. I'm inspired. Don't spoil it. Plenty of other places for fat weak people (that's me now btw) to climb.
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Where can one find photo of this board?
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https://twitter.com/minaclimbing/status/742766064052916224
Not been on it, but my wife trains there and reckons it's ace.
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That looks mega you miserable gits :P
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So have changes been made to it since that photo was taken? I haven't been for a couple of weeks but it didn't feel 7a to get up to me.
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I climbed a bit on the original original board, i.e. the one with only small poor wooden edges for feet. It was good in that you had to try hard to keep feet in contact, but very limiting really as moves tended to be shorter, handholds bigger as a result (i.e. to get a problem at any given grade) and there were no foot to hand moves or really stretched out moves. I never went on it after they added load of footholds, but if it was a choice between the old old motherboard and a conventional school 50deg board I would go with the school every time.
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I found my first session on the new board pretty humbling but think I'll get used to it. Would like to see some footholds on kickboard though..
Not related to motherboard but noticed that the new sections of wall in the middle now have textured paint (like sandpaper). Surely this can't be by popular demand? I thought the general feeling was a big NO to this sort of thing?
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So have changes been made to it since that photo was taken? I haven't been for a couple of weeks but it didn't feel 7a to get up to me.
Don't tell me you thought it was easier!?
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Haha - no I thought a little harder. Sadly I couldn't get near the top holds to make a proper judgement!
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I've had a quick go on the new board and thought it was really useful although much harder than the old board (which I was used to).
I found it really hard to keep my feet on and couldn't do more than 2 moves as my feet would just come pretty much straight off.
What techniques/strength do you think you need to keep your feet on those footholds?
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So have changes been made to it since that photo was taken? I haven't been for a couple of weeks but it didn't feel 7a to get up to me.
Yes. There are now more holds on.
What techniques/strength do you think you need to keep your feet on those footholds?
Climb on the board a lot basically. There's not much better training around (see Malcolm Smith)
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I thought it was probably about 7a to 7b to get to the top but there's a steep learning curve to get used to the style.
I think it's good. I can see myself getting stronger climbing on it.
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For my part I think it's genius. I like that it's not inclusive. I like that it would really only be acceptable in Sheffield to have a board where it's mid 7s all holds included.
Have you considered getting stronger (a stronger core at least). It's definitely an option...
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I
What techniques/strength do you think you need to keep your feet on those footholds?
After a few goes mine were starting to stay on. I guess there is an element of technique to it but ultimately if your too slappy and let your arse sag out a small amount your feet are off.
If you see someone strong on it their feet dont seem to have the same problems.
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And its no harder than 7A+ to get up from standing. Adding 3 or 4 moves from the bottom adds a grade.
I thought 7A as it only took me 2 tries, which does not happen at the school where most 7As take me a few sessions never mind goes.
Re the footboard without holds its genius. Typically on most boards the first couple of moves are easy due to footboards now you have to pull hard from the 1st move and it stops reach being a huge advantage.
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For me personally I think it's great but I can see why people are complaining as it's a lot harder than the old board.
The holds are all really comfy and you can climb on it with bad skin which is definitely something you can't do on most boards.
The old board was far too cluttered and it made remembering problems or seeing holds much more difficult, also a lot of the holds were pretty nasty. This board is easy to see holds and is aesthetically very pleasing to the eye, which may not be important but I think it increases motivation to climb on it.
In regards to using the footholds and getting feet to stay, it's definitely something that will come with time and practise, I think it's a mix of pushing through them just enough and pushing into the board rather than just down, think of it as front lever practise.
Most people I have spoken to seemed to be a little disgruntled at first but are getting used to and actually preferring the new board.
I think it works really well in conjunction with the board at the School where the moves are bigger but the feet are also much bigger, they create two very different styles of climbing and strength.
I think that in the middle of the board it could do with one or two bigger holds, this would make getting to the top a lot easier and open it up to a lot of others. I also think it needs some undercuts in the middle that face outwards rather than inwards.
I think Works and Ned are really open to talking about it in a constructive way, they just want to create a really good, and yes HARD, bit of wall to climb on as the rest of the wall doesn't really offer this.
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Practise? You've been spending too much time with Jimmy!
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Thanks Dave - those suggestions sound good to me. I'd like to be able to train the different types of strength you refer to on the board but I understand the thinking behind making it harder. I'm lucky as can use the wall when it's quiet so don't have to worry about it being too accessible!
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According to Michaela, soft shoes make a massive difference too. Something which will deform down, and across the hemispheres.
Having not climbed on it yet (or much at all for that matter), I think Dave's comments about it looking nicer and less cluttered do make me want to try it. I climbed on the old board every so often, but never really enjoyed it, as I spent so long searching for the next hold, I'd be powering out before I had the chance to flail at said hold. The openness of the board does appeal.
Personally I was hoping that once the castle was removed, there'd be a "lite" board which was shallower angled, with more incut holds, and so-so feet, rather than the too-shit/too-good variants on the old board. Unfortunately the structure of the castle stayed put. Must have deep foundations.
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not to mention an mbe for services to cellars.
God I've missed you. News of this board is getting me psyched to climb again. Sounds amazing good work team!
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For my part I think it's genius. I like that it's not inclusive. I like that it would really only be acceptable in Sheffield to have a board where it's mid 7s all holds included.
Have you considered getting stronger (a stronger core at least). It's definitely an option...
You've never climbed on the 55 degree board at Eden rock!
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The Eden wall 55 board is harder without doubt. However i found it pretty frustrating to work out problems due to the density of holds and lack of a numbering system.
Am i in a minority in not liking loads of holds on boards. The last works board was the same, to many holds and them having names made it even worse. The new one has a good number of holds and they are in grids like the school. Much easier.
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I don't like loads of holds either, forces you to be creative with moves and I'm shit so for someone good I'd think the sky would be the limit! I hope they keep it at least a bit sparse!
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Re the footboard without holds its genius. Typically on most boards the first couple of moves are easy due to footboards now you have to pull hard from the 1st move and it stops reach being a huge advantage.
That's why my board has no kickboard at all.
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you could hold a referendum.
Footholds on the kicker.
No footholds on the kicker.
most folk are usually happy to accept the results.
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Not on here they're not!
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Re the footboard without holds its genius. Typically on most boards the first couple of moves are easy due to footboards now you have to pull hard from the 1st move and it stops reach being a huge advantage.
Yeah, I understand that but it's not like you have to use it just because it's there. I have lots of self-imposed foot rules I use on the Foundry board for the same reasons.
It just seems like you wouldn't lose any of the benefits of the new board by adding more holds. I've never struggled with lots of holds, I like it because it's easier to replicate moves and work weaknesses.
Anyway, everyone likes different things and that's why we bought a house with a garage. Once the roof leak is sorted then we'll have our own board setup the way we like.
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we'll have our own board setup the way we like.
Are you royalty, or Gollum?
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we'll have our own board setup the way we like.
Are you royalty, or Gollum?
Neither, I just live with my other half who also climbs and thus it'll be our board.
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For my part I think it's genius. I like that it's not inclusive. I like that it would really only be acceptable in Sheffield to have a board where it's mid 7s all holds included.
Have you considered getting stronger (a stronger core at least). It's definitely an option...
You've never climbed on the 55 degree board at Eden rock!
Just looked at it on google maps. Does look filthy.
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[quote author=AlistairB link=topic=27220.msg527691#msg527691 d
Yeah, I understand that but it's not like you have to use it just because it's there. I have lots of self-imposed foot rules I use on the Foundry board for the same reasons.
It just seems like you wouldn't lose any of the benefits of the new board by adding more holds. I've never struggled with lots of holds, I like it because it's easier to replicate moves and work weaknesses
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That's the whole point though. No easy opt outs therefore forcing you totally out of your comfort zone. A place most of us like to frequent.
Not many of us really try hard if there is an easier version we plumb for it. I found that with the last board, the big footholds were soon used if after a few goes on the jibs I couldn't do the moves. You don't want that option.
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Looks from the marks on the arete that somebody has been toe-hooking around the side of the board... :whistle:
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Not seen Gav for ages!
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with Gav's short arms and your small head, I'm pretty sure he's not got a hope of banging you out, Dense
:boxing:
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Oh divide and conquer lagers, that's older than the South African vampire. You've been watching too much news recently ;)
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I think it makes sense to have footholds on the kicker, for the most part.
Otherwise you effectively end up french-starting all problems, as opposed to getting into a stationary hang and then starting.
I think of all the roofs I have seen on peak sport routes, and almost all of them to my memory have a nice little vertical section before it kicks out.
Would it not be beneficial to replicate the style of move by having a kicker?
I suppose you could have the same argument with choosing abysmal feet or abysmal hand holds [and slightly better of the other].
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Or just cover it in bits of grip tape?
Honestly the things you people moan about in Sheffield. Try living in another part of the country without several world class walls :whistle:
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The argument for not having footholds on the kick board is that you can just jump off them, creating very similar moves. The slightly grippy paint allows you to smear on it if you want. I think no foot holds on the kicker is definitely good, it makes the first move as hard as other moves.
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it makes the first move as hard as other moves.
This many people don't like. I don't go to climbing gyms anymore, but at least here most gyms have an embarassing setting tailored on beginners. Fair enough, they pay the bills, but it sucks. Everybody want to tick through the grades without breaking a sweat. Evybudy wanna be a bodybuilder, but don't nobudy wanna lift heavy ass weight.
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As a certified punter I quite like the challenge of something I can't even pull on. Well, first session I couldn't, second session I pulled on, was hoping on my third go I'd actually make a move, unfortunately a chest infection has struck. The Motherboard is still calling me though, much like heroin, only harder than that pussy shit.
Wouldn't want holds on the kickboard, then you'd have to do even more moves to reach the top as certified by what any punter would regard as "the bottom". The first move on jugs feels f6B in itself.
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I guess the kickboard tradeoff is that without one, the first move is disproportionately tough ( bum hanging out), but with one can feel too easy. Pulling on outside on steeper stuff, getting your arse off the deck can feel nails, if not impossible, so I'd tend towards having either no kickboard, or a glassily slick one for full training benefit.
Having jugs or big footholds on a board ( at somewhere like the works) is a complete waste of time. On a home board it makes sense, unless you have enough space to build a warm up area.
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
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it makes the first move as hard as other moves.
This many people don't like. I don't go to climbing gyms anymore, but at least here most gyms have an embarassing setting tailored on beginners. Fair enough, they pay the bills, but it sucks. Everybody want to tick through the grades without breaking a sweat. Evybudy wanna be a bodybuilder, but don't nobudy wanna lift heavy ass weight.
I love big Ron.
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I thought Big Ron was Fawcett?
:-\
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I thought Big Ron was Fawcett?
:-\
nah that's puny white Ron
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Or just cover it in bits of grip tape?
Honestly the things you people moan about in Sheffield. Try living in another part of the country without several world class walls :whistle:
This. Be pleased (and yes people I see the huge irony here; Hi Percy/Graeme :tease: ) you have a wall that constantly strives to improve even if you think they may have it slightly wrong.
Monkey Boy - I think you need your feet anchoring back to real earth if you think most people have the luxury (time/financial) of accessing both the school board and motherboard (/insert other wall here) regularly!
Personally I hate the snatchy/foot popping nature of the BM boards. That's because I'm injury prone and probably very bad at climbing on them. I haven't tried the new board or Nedward's home board but he's hardly a stranger to getting training right! I remember either Dan or Ned once saying that sessions should be judged as a success if you did a new move rather than a new problem!
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I've always said that yet people laughed at me and kicked chalk in my face.
You having something good to say about the works is seriously messing with my chi at the moment!
I tell monkey boy that at least 3x a wk.
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You having something good to say about the works is seriously messing with my chi at the moment!
I'm a changed man, seriously; in all honesty I just vent my bitterness work-ward currently.
(Given we're talking to each other [and it IS just us] using pseudonyms, via an internet forum, we should probably just pick up the phone?).
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You having something good to say about the works is seriously messing with my chi at the moment!
I'm a changed man, seriously; in all honesty I just vent my bitterness work-ward currently.
(Given we're talking to each other [and it IS just us] using pseudonyms, via an internet forum, we should probably just pick up the phone?).
That would prevent the rest of us from seeing it though and therefore be boring.
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Looks from the marks on the arete that somebody has been toe-hooking around the side of the board... :whistle:
I already made that gag Percy (you bloody cheat!).
https://youtu.be/KKGUv-3r63Y
I was just more subtle.
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Paul I don't trust you picking up a phone. I would feel responsible if your wrist snapped mid conversation.
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Who do i need to convince to put some more undercuts on the board. Theres a serious lack of 'em.
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Paul I don't trust you picking up a phone. I would feel responsible if your wrist snapped mid conversation.
Call in for a board session one week if your working over this way and you can see how bad he is on boards other than the beastmakers :great: :great: