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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Paul B on May 17, 2016, 10:20:26 pm
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Tonight at Longridge (after a shit day at work) I had a bit of an issue with my shoulder; my right arm was fairly straight and my left was crossing under again fairly straight (jug to jug, if you're familiar with the traverse, after the wobbly block, before the hard drop down as you go up after the slots) with relatively poor feet. As I did so my left shoulder made a crunch/tearing sound (Probes heard this from 10m further along) and felt somewhat displaced temporarily (this may be in my head). It hurt a reasonable amount, enough to make me shout, but not tragically so and didn't feel acute. A minute later there was no real pain and I can lift my arm forward, to the side and with my arm bent at 90 to the side with a small weight (organic briefcase pad), full ROM and no pain. I instantly stopped the session.
Back at home I'm hyper aware of the shoulder but beyond feeling a bit tired I can't currently feel any issues.
Any clues on what this might be or the course of action (Internet diagnosis caveats accepted)?
Did I get reasonably lucky and this was a warning of something on the brink of destruction?
Next time I pull on (Thursday, planned Kilnsey route session) will I simply turn to dust?
Given a lack of lasting pain I haven't sought medical attention. At least after all this time I knew to leave.
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This happened to me using the rings, during my (unsuccessful) quest for the Iron cross.
It didn't hurt too much on the day but the next day I found certain positions, such as reaching for a pen or pointing; gave be a stab of agonising pain and instant weakness. I kept dropping things as I went to place down etc. It degenerated into constant pain over the next few days, until I hit up the medics.
Torn rotator cuff.
Hopefully not in your case, but if any of the above sequela begin, get yourself to the physio pronto and take it seriously. I didn't, went back too quickly (repeatedly) and I still have issues two years later.
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An injury thread started by Paul B who'd have thought it? :-*
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If I were you... I'd go and see a physio before climbing again (especially Kilnsey!) and make it a shoulder specialist. I admit this maybe difficult at short notice, but it may be worth it in the long run. You and Nat have an injury addiction!
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To be fair I've done really well over the last few years.
Toby- would things like rotator cuff damage not leave pain? The morning after I've got very slight tenderness where my lat attaches and also where my pec attaches. Full, pain free ROM.
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When i did my rotor cuff (surfing) it didn't hurt much, just felt a bit weak and lame. Hurt when i tried to climb anything steep on it though. I would take TobyD's advice.
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Agree with all the above. Get it checked out.
I've done my right shoulder twice, injured (not tore) the rotator cuff. Both times it felt like the shoulder ball had popped out. First time slapping the top at Font and shock loading too much. Second time a couple months later was just reach up for a hold and it went, completely unweighted.
I had good ROM, only slight pain. Very weak lifting (even a 1kg weight made it much harder). In Font I actually hopped back on the problem and did it...
I did lots of rotator cuff band work, and some pec minor stretching (go into bench press position with 2kg weights in each hand and let your arms go back towards the floor). Roll it out with a lax ball too.
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Sounds a lighter version of what i've had (subluxation with mild SLAP tear and rotator cuff mess)
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To be fair I've done really well over the last few years.
Toby- would things like rotator cuff damage not leave pain? The morning after I've got very slight tenderness where my lat attaches and also where my pec attaches. Full, pain free ROM.
you mean where your pec ought to be?
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Agree with all the above. Get it checked out.
Booked in for Fri. I have spoken to a physio who I trust and he said to warm up thoroughly and take it easy... you disagree with this? I'm not redpointing or anything hard (it'll be Face Value etc.).
If I hold my arm straight above my head and lean it towards the right it feels really unstable (this isn't a new thing and may be related to an injury I sustained on opening day of the works; who remembers dislocation alley on the comp wall?). This morning I couldn't resist doing front, side and bent over lifts with the milk carton (the big 'un); all without pain or limited motion.
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Sounds like RC damage. For what it's worth, recovery highlighted some instabilities in my in my back and shoulders which I now target with a theraband, and they are probably stronger than they were pre injury.
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I really didn't think I'd done anything at the time.
I ended up needing pain relief and knockout drops just to get a nights sleep. Took me two years to get fit again and only now losing the weight I gained. If it is the rotator, DO NOT PUSH YOUR LUCK.
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Mine was similar to what ghisino said (sublux and rotator cuff etc mess)
If I did it again, I'd lay off climbing until Friday when you see the physio, and get a light theraband and do various exercises that cause zero pain. I've read that maintaining motion is good, while avoiding pain that might suggest overdoing it at all.
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what's one more missed session :???: in the grand scheme of things.
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what's one more missed session :???: in the grand scheme of things.
just do an extra legs day
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One armers on the other arm?
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from my experience of doing both rotator cuffs (not at the same time.... :o)
...specifically supraspinatus
You WILL know immediately that you have done something....
It wont feel sore that day
It probably wont be too sore most of the time except why you try and do weird things.
(washing pits in shower, lifting pints, and catching closing doors spring to mind as being painful, as does catching fat bastards while on belay duty)
It fill take 'kin ages to heal.
I managed to bimble about abit but you can't really climb to your limit with a trashed shoulder.
The one think I have taken from it is the importance of press-ups and stretching....
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what's one more missed session :???: in the grand scheme of things.
just do an extra legs day
That's a whole different problem altogether - a very unfortunate condition called polymelia, I believe. Having an extra arm could be useful.
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Well, yesterday I was brutalised by a small woman in the name of having a shoulder stability assessment. She found no signs of acute damage and told me i can climb as normal (a tentative YYFY?).
What she did say was that my chest and lats are very tight and causing me postural issues which I compensate for in other ways. She notably identified a bias towards my left hand side which she was attributing to my right leg injury and some of the tests I undertook seemed to highlight this profoundly.
My left shoulder does 'catch' in a certain position and she thought it was most likely that coinciding with a trigger point that set me off ( :???:)... I'm not wholly convinced by that if I'm honest but I'll wait and see.
I've been given stretches and exercises and have a follow up in a fortnight. Cheers for the support above, here's hoping she's correct.
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Sounds like best possible diagnosis for a change! No major injury, and highlighted some underlying issues before they cause problems.
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Sounds like best possible diagnosis for a change! No major injury, and highlighted some underlying issues before they cause problems.
It held up fairly well yesterday at Kilnsey too. Nothing ridiculous:
Directissima (all the way)
Face Value
Sticky Wicket (Gee snapped a hold of this making it EVEN harder)
The route left of Comedy (name escapes me but it's thuggy and steep).
50 for 5 (moving left at mid height ish before it starts getting tricky probably felt the most vulnerable all day)
Another lap of Face to finish the day.
I was 'aware' of the shoulder all day but I can't tell if it's me just being paranoid as usual with a suspected injury. It felt like I wasn't climbing too well either but with limited sessions and being protective I guess I shouldn't get too upset by that.
No pain today, just the usual Kilnsey back soreness which makes being in the office more bearable!