UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2007, 01:48:44 pm
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Trying to work out what the story is on this one. Not the projest rib right of Kaluza, the sharp steep one right again, opposite sweet thing. Due the following description, I'd always considered it had been done:
14b Pan o' raisins E4 6b Mark Smith (on-sight)
Start just left of Cenotaph Coroner (14a). Climb the undercut arete before moving right on to the wall proper. Very uncharacteristic crimpy climbing up the wall allows an undercut to be gained to pull through for flutings, then an easy slab to the top of the boulder. Escapable, but above an ankle snapping boulder. (8m)
However folk have assured me it hasn't. i seem to remember another similar claim too, Percy or Al? Anyone know anymore?
The fact that he says it is escapable suggests he rocked round straight after pulling on, then crimped up to the break. Its not much harder - E4 6c- to continue up the arete direct to the break, but not at all escapable. Anyway, El Mocho did this yesterday but then traversed left around the break to top out. Has it been done with the direct finish?
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I agree with your reading of the Pan O Raisins description. I'm pretty sure a direct finish has not been done.
The leftward finish as per El Mocho is the obvious way I was expecting it to go. Good effort that man!! How hard is this? Any name, Chiff-chaff/My Other Best Friend The Logenberry?
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I'm damn sure its been done before, only one tricky move. I'm sure someone/Percy claimed it a few years back
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Have been expecting it to be climbed for years but never heard anything. Percy did the FA of the groove on the right.
Oh go on then, here's a stupidly obvious one which is crying out for a big team with mats to sort out. Not on a par with the one you just did but worthy. The arete right of Kaluza Klein. has been done to the break (Pan o Raisan E4 6b??) with an escape right. But the leftward/direct line looks a goer, with a huge jug only a couple of moves from where the E4 goes right. The landing is good too. Might need a cleaning monkey to ab the top first.
Reading what I wrote here it's obvious I mis read the POR description, hence thinking it climbed the arete all the way to the break.
Keenus mentioned he'd climbed the lower part of the arete but hadn't made it to the good part of the break on the left.
Mike Adams also mention Tony Simpson had done a line similar to POR, thinking it a new problem. This also went right below the break.
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hmm, makes a bit more sense.
The move to the break is a bit of a stopper due to the landing. From here I think it would be difficult to move right, though I think a direct/ slightly rightward finish is on the cards. The left traverse top out takes you well out of bouldering territory
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E6 6c with cams?
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No. E4 6c to the break, thereafter scrittly 5c. So possibly still E4 even as a solo but like as not you'll feel you earned it.
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Me and Ned had a brief gander at this last Saturday....
Looked like the crimpy arete/wall would go pretty leftwards from the arete at about 2/3rds height and eventually a move into the somewhat green/slimey looking break below the topout.... Looked fair game and teh landing isn't too bad until you move left into the break at the top!
Nice job El Mocho! Looks like a good crimpy line....
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It was indeed an admirably reckless foray along the break by El Mocho. The top didn't look like it was too hard, but then again he didn't make Sparrow/My Best Mate the Watermelon look very hard either, whereas Ryan 'I'm no punter' Pasquill seemed to have a torrid time on it.
Has Ben offered a name for this latest addition?
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Hopefully it will be better than recent new problem naming.
When they make a new guide book, I'm sure there will be a foot note explaining the ridiculous fruit/bird obsessed stupid names to the problems that were put up circa 06/07 which began life on t'interweb with a 'my orange is better than your apple' jibing contest
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When they make a new guide book, I'm sure there will be a foot note explaining the ridiculous
There will probably be a whole page of anecdotes dedicated to it and a special fruit/bird circuit tour to be ticked off...
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Speaking of Sweet Thing, whats the score with the broken hold? Has it been stabalised, and is it now climbable? I had a feel of the hold and it felt totally solid, but didn't pull on it so can't be sure.
Nice work on that arete - its a good looking line.
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Sweet thing, basically its outrageous, it now sports a blatantly chipped huge crimp which appears to be stabilised. Snagging the slopey top was always the crux so it remains quite hard, its fuckin unbelivable though what some people will do given half a chance.
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The original chipping (probably by a none climber) left nothing useable. Then someone (undoubtedly a climber) scraped a hold into the soft rock. This was then semi stabilised with something or other by Tony Simpson. I more recently stabilised it properly after a couple of people suggested I do so. Not for my benefit, I doubt i'll even try it. I thought it better that it be a solid bit of rock rather than a sandy lump which would continue to get big and uglier over time. It was already stable enough to use but would proably have continued to degrade with use. Bad call perhaps, but it's done now.
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i believe mick adams was reported to have done it after it was chipped and treated.
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'my orange is better than your apple'
that's right
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I think it was a good idea to stabilise it fully. At least now the erosion will stop, even if the problem does look a bit of a mess.
Such a shame it got ruined, it looks like it would have been a nice problem.
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i believe mick adams was reported to have done it after it was chipped and treated.
You believe correctly, he did it shortly after the original damage/repair shenanigans. However, Mick felt that the problem was much poorer following the chipping and not half as good as it had been previously. A real shame for him because he was very close to doing the problem just before it was destroyed. I seem to remember that Mick felt it was a bit easier now.
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This was my project for a number of years (ground up) I've got to the move below slapping for the break several times but always bottled it, it looks ok but feels 'wrong'. There's one tricky move to get your feet up but the undercut for your left hand feels dodgy, from this you should be able to slap for the break but I don't know how good this is. I've got one photo from an early attempt but I'll not post it as a. it's too low down to be impressive (and you can see what looks like a bald spot).
I pointed James Pearson at the line a couple of years back, it really shouldn't be that hard in 'new money' in any event it's a good line that should be done.
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Presume you're talking about the arete not sweet thing. We didn't use an undercut for the left hand, both hands on crimps on and to the right of the arete.
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Yep, talking about the arete, it used to be possible to pull onto the good foot hold from the ground but after I pulled the hold off (yes another one) I could only start from the block. I can't really remember any crimps (within reach) on the right wall.