UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Luke Owens on November 13, 2017, 11:58:46 pm
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Mike's climbed a new one to the left of Ned's "Full House" at Stanage. "Wild Card" 7c+/8a-ish.
http://vimeo.com/242495943
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Tie the spotter so they can't leave
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That looks awesome Mike! Great to see you guys still rocking it!!
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Cool stuff. Does this mean that the hypothetical seam line from the Ace start all the way to the vertical section would be more of an arbitrary link-up than a line of weakness?
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Not wanting to sound like a pedant or to offend Mike, but are Wild Card and Full House really different problems? They look the same to me, but one uses sensible starting holds. I'm all for coming up with challenges to keep things interesting, but does it really need to be a new problem? Probs something for a different thread!
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Not wanting to sound like a pedant or to offend Mike, but are Wild Card and Full House really different problems? They look the same to me, but one uses sensible starting holds. I'm all for coming up with challenges to keep things interesting, but does it really need to be a new problem? Probs something for a different thread!
It's the slow but steady transformation of gritstone in to hedonistic eliminate/link-up madness a-la Tom's roof. I for one am looking forward to the first ascent of The Ace Reverse in to Wild Card (no resting on jug).
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Is that meant as a serious comment, i cant tell? The lines are actually very different. Wild Card starts in a very different place and hence adds difficulty. Yes perhaps this is a variation, but that is the way bouldering has been evolving for some time now. There are already plenty of lines which are like this but worse at Stanage. Ron's Slab and the 7c+ line (Andy's Walll's) left of Deliverance, are two that spring to mind.
Personally I would rather people tell other people about these lines, that way I can decide whether to go and try them or ignore them if I don't think its a good line wroth my time. Being negative is not very helpful and all it is going to do is put people off. Taking away the option. regardless of who has done what.
Now if you are against all these kinds of lines and if they should be reported or included in guide books, then that is another topic totally..