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the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: tomtom on May 02, 2013, 05:46:50 pm
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Hello,
A new problem at a new craglet.. Overton Neb is a small buttress that overhangs by a good 2m. All natural features (no quarrying) but the rock is of mixed quality. The top, and sides is good and firm with a strong patina, but any big lines through the roof are sadly hampered by the rock having the quality of spongy cheese under the roof :(
Location: https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=Overton,+Frodsham&ll=53.279903,-2.714944&spn=0.000616,0.001321&hnear=Overton,+Cheshire+West+and+Chester,+United+Kingdom&gl=uk&t=h&z=20 (https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=Overton,+Frodsham&ll=53.279903,-2.714944&spn=0.000616,0.001321&hnear=Overton,+Cheshire+West+and+Chester,+United+Kingdom&gl=uk&t=h&z=20)
Access is unknown - probably private - but once you are there it is very secluded and no one can really see you (except when you top out). There is a public footpath from the road, and you have to hop over a battered barbed wire fence to get up to the crag. I spent an hour or so last week clearing the landing from brambles - it will probably grow over in the summer - but the landings are all good and flat. There is possibility for another line on the LH lip (scrittly rock needs a good clean) and for two far less inspiring lines on the wall to the RH of this problem. Big thanks to Andy Popp for extensive brushing, spotting and encouraging. Its never going to have many problems, but Reign of Debris is good - and worth a quick trip if you're in the area.
The problem and line is on the RH edge/lip and is really good. It climbs well with big moves on large holds leading to a big sandy rockover, one good hold over the top, palm down and mantle - as per the video.
Reign Of Debris, F6C+/7A on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/65312333)
I think its probably 6C or 6C+, but Andy felt it was quite a bit harder, so I've gone for 6C+/7A - it may well be that the rockover and reach suits my lanky frame.
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Good stuff, big up the esoteric gem massive.
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A nice effort from Tom. He's such a lanky sod he makes it look tiny but its certainly not and, factoring in the scrittle and horizontal positions, is an intimidating proposition. Beautiful spot too. I couldn't seem to get in the right position for the lock upwards from the end of the traverse. Damn it, I'm going to have to find someone to go back with me.
Its been a fun spring in Cheshire, unearthing new routes and spots ... and there's more to come.
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I'd be up for that Andy. Had a lovely day out yesterday doing a Frodsham/Harmers/Pex trilogy of crimping for 5 hours until my skin and toes were in agony. It would be cool to get this done as well as the big arête and backwoods man at Manley and then over to Harmers for a bit of volume :)
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Give it 7A you lanky bastard. Say no to split grades!
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Give it 7A you lanky bastard. Say no to split grades!
It was either that of V grades ;) Its an odd one - felt miles off last week, but once I got my weight close in and over the foot it felt fine..
Rich & Andy, I'd be up for Manley - et al..
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:2thumbsup: first ascent!
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Nice one chaps, scoped this out after visiting the caves nearby with the kids a couple of years ago but never got round to going back!
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That looks like a fine line. Well done, TT :clap2:
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Kudos to Tom for this line, suitably highball and impressive looking.
Wandered up here this morning for another look, as it’s virtually the closest rock to home. Cleaned up an unsatisfactory rising traverse ...ideally would have stayed low but freshly brushed rock still a bit greasy/dirty. That and being too weak. F5+ ish and only just worthy of a 10 min walk :)
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Thanks Steve - really nice to hear someone has been to check it out.. I’m not a prodigious new router - and it’s a great line. It’s not that bad a top out once you rock over...
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Just to double check the location, is it here?
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/977/41347962715_56018da055_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25ZM7LT) (https://flic.kr/p/25ZM7LT)
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Yes, pretty certain that's it. There's an impressive set of caves/quarried roofs in the other field but the rock is super soft and sandy.
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That's it yes, there's an obvious cave you can see from the road which the footpath leads straight to. This is slightly more hidden (in summer) and over to the right in a second field at about the same height.
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I went over on Tuesday and climbed this. Really nice problem, well done finding, cleaning and sharing it!
Someone was shooting above the crag whilst I was there, only occasional shots from a .22 I'm guessing but it was enough to worry my dog.... We had no other issues though.
I see reference further up this thread about the quarried cave to the left of the crag, (it's feckin huge and well worth a nosey!) are we allowed to climb in/on this? I saw a line in it that reminded me of one of the problems in those "rooftown" vids from a months back.
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Great! How did the grade feel? (its so hard to give a problem its first grade..)
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Nice work! The field containing the caves has always been a haunt for people poking around. Guessing/hoping climbers are just a special class of people poking around. I think a friend's dad farms them actually but doubt they'd ever become popular enough to be an issue?
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For the grade I'd guess more towards 6c/6c+, but I too own a lanky frame ;) and maybe this does affect the rockover.
I would add though that I'm awful with grades! I really struggle when it comes to putting a number on something.
Do you have any plans to get on the left hand lip? I'd thought it might be possible to traverse the lip L to R into the top of your problem? That way you'd get full distance out of the rock and not have to rockover above the slope!
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Forgot to say about the other caves... My main concern is about leaving chalky holds in there as I'm guessing it doesn't get much drainage!
I've had a quick Google and found no info about them, are they a particularly special site of interest? They seem to be a popular place to eat food from a petrol station...
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Nice one Alex. I thought the L-R lip traverse looked worthwhile: get it done! I have no idea about access, to any of it. Its probably not worth worrying too much or asking too many questions. I can't imagine it causing any major problems.
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I grew up 20 minutes walk down the hill from there. Our scout group used to go up to those caves fairly regularly and if my memory is right, the slope below/next to them was also Frodsham's best sledging location, whenever there was snow it used to get rammed with kids. Coukd have changed a lot now of course, but I'd be fairly surprised if there were access problems.
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Nice one Alex. I thought the L-R lip traverse looked worthwhile: get it done! I have no idea about access, to any of it. Its probably not worth worrying too much or asking too many questions. I can't imagine it causing any major problems.
I seem to remember the lip being a bit chossy at the start - plus a huuuge bramble nest :)
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I have zero recollection.
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I have zero recollection.
:D
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Champion. The start certainly wasn't on the best rock but I figured a couple of moves in and you'd be slapping your way along a lovely slopey edge. I'll try and get over next week if the weather is ok and give it a brush, maybe snip some brambles too, but I'll probably just chuck a mat on them!
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I shall await news with interest.
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So I'm sat under the roof waiting/hoping that the rain will stop for long enough to get back to the car...
I've brushed the left hand line and was making slow but steady progress round the roof when rain stopped play. I'm hoping this rain will wash some more scrittle off.... There's a lot to brush off with a tooth brush on a stick 😉 and I can't get to the holds from above.
It seems to climb quite well, and not as intimidating as I thought although I didn't get to rockover on it.
Anyhow I'm suitably inspired to get back on it soon if you fancy a spot on reign of debris Andy?
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Good stuff! I hope you make it back soon. I'd love a spot on Reign of Debris too but, alas, I now live in the US.
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I’m about tomorrow...?
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I'm busy tomorrow sorry, it'll probably be Monday or Tuesday before I can get back there, If you're free then Tom? It got a proper soaking today so I wouldn't get there too early tomorrow...
Andy, I thought you must of been back for some summer esoterica sorry! Hope it's all good stateside.