UKBouldering.com
places to visit => abroad => Topic started by: Fiend on October 14, 2010, 02:06:23 pm
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Am going for a long weekend at the end of October. Duncan Dischoaderly is out there and will no doubt have an epic list of soft-touch reach-dependent F7cs to crush into oblivion hahaha. But for the more punterly / realistic / less-number-obssessed "it's all just training for trad" type climber out there, what is useful to know?? Not really after specific route recommendations as I usually go by what looks inspiring BUT any info about the area, good sectors, good sectors to combine DD's 7c chasing with my low-grade flash chasing, conditions advice, warnings of notorious sandbags / soft touchs would all be very welcome, ta.
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The ice cream parlours (I can get more specific) are awesome and whatever you might need in terms of gear, you'll likely find in redpoint 3 cheapest.
Maybe go and visit stoney a few times to get reacquainted with plenty of polish before you go. It was far too hot when we passed through Arco to do anything actually climbing based. We briefly wandered up the local Via Ferrata, in Britain it'd be a path.
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Polish, I can train polish, don't even need to go to Stoney for that...
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You seem to be under the misapprehension that you have any choice on this trip. :P Just so you know its Massone Sector A/B to warm up then Massone Sector D for harder routes. As far as I know there are no dark satanic quarries in Arco and even if there is we aint going there. If you behave and its cloudy I might me up for Zanzara (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=762) a 300m 7a+ on Colodri Est.
Correction: Sector E is a bit dark, quarried and satanic. Fancy your chances on Underground?
02 Underground 8c+/9a Mrazek Tomas (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lhSoPB_8CI&feature=related#)
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Was there for a bit in August (too hot obviously)
The polish at Massone is the worst I've ever seen, shame cos it looks like there used to be some great pitches there.
You dont have to go far from the town to get away from the polish though.
Some of the crags up the valley around Sarche (15 mins drive) look great for 7a/b cragging. We went to Sisyphos which had some good crimpy pockety pitches, faces east though so might not be what you are after this time of year.
Another crag I dug was Val d'Algone. Nice roadside spot by a river, great rock and several good flowy 6c+/7a pitches right next to each other. Bit further away though this one and not much harder stuff (one 7c?)
Have a good one.
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What have you all got against climbing near people from Poland?
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Fiend, I thought Massone was ok actually. The polish is terrible right at the left end of the crag on the punter slabs, but after that it#s not actually too bad - especially by UK standards!
Main area:
Via le Man 7a - excellent. Punchy crux
La Bamba 7a+ - hideous
Il Calabrese 7c - 3 distinct cruxes, with amazing rests bewteen. Jamming crack at the top ;-)
Beach Boys 7b - superb
Disneyland 7c - good
Abissi 7c - pumpy!!!
Cannabis 7b+ excellent
Gameboy 7b - tricky for the grade i thought
La cucina 8a - cruxy, but fine
Fessura port 7a/b - fine for a crack climber!
enjoy - icecreams in Arco are quality.
Conditions for climbing are best in the evening if I remember correctly. Hard to find close parking spaces though.
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I'd second the recommendation of that Zanzara thing. I also really enjoyed a crag a little way up in to the hills, at a village called Nomesino, Bucomagia 7a and Les Prestiges 7b+ stood out.
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The ice cream parlours (I can get more specific) are awesome
:agree:
As is bar Al Orca in Riva
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Oi Mc Choad!!!
I'm not grade obsessed or looking for soft touch 7c's.... I just seem to enjoy failure :wall:
Of course it's all about the richness of the experience, the spirit of adventure, the view, the tweeting of the birds, the planets in perfect alignment and soaring like an eagle.... :P
:D
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Was there for a bit in August (too hot obviously)
The polish at Massone is the worst I've ever seen, shame cos it looks like there used to be some great pitches there.
You dont have to go far from the town to get away from the polish though.
Some of the crags up the valley around Sarche (15 mins drive) look great for 7a/b cragging. We went to Sisyphos which had some good crimpy pockety pitches, faces east though so might not be what you are after this time of year.
Another crag I dug was Val d'Algone. Nice roadside spot by a river, great rock and several good flowy 6c+/7a pitches right next to each other. Bit further away though this one and not much harder stuff (one 7c?)
Have a good one.
Thank you, that's useful to know, I hope Mr Shark and Mr Choad take heed of that!
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Errrrr need a bit more emergency advice.
Sir Duncan Of Choadsville is reporting a forecast of "reaching -1'c" and "possible snow" next week. Gulp. If I wanted that I could stay up here. So quick hit me with a list of the warmest most sheltered suntrap crags as well as permadry cave stuff (the easier the better for the latter). Also any good alternatives / bouldering / etc??
Ta!!
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Lo Gola might be an option, it was roasting when we went so I reckon its mostly south facing. Theres a cave which would stay dry in the rain. Not many routes, but the 'warm up' tufa (7a+) was pretty cool I thought.
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Thanks dude, useful to know. It's sounding a bit grim out there at the mo :wall:
Did I pass your van beneath Moy on a Friday evening a couple of weeks back, btw?? Had a cool trip up North, went to Ardmair Beach, Ardmair, Inverpollaidh, and Rhue bouldering. Met Tess out at t'Beach and she tagged along to Inverpollaidh, she's a good laugh. Gonna get up there bouldering over this winter...
Anyone else got any more warm/dry Arco suggestions?? :-\
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Panic ye not. I dont know where Duncan's getting his forecast from but its only .been overcast Sat and Sun but poured down here for last 12 hours but still about 10degrees. Forecast drizzly tomorrow then sunny intervals Weds, Thurs, Fri and about 12 degrees.
Check Verona forecast on BBC weather. Bottle of Barollo already sunk. First ever Amarone tonight. Mmmmm
See ya
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Did I pass your van beneath Moy on a Friday evening a couple of weeks back, btw?? Had a cool trip up North, went to Ardmair Beach, Ardmair, Inverpollaidh, and Rhue bouldering. Met Tess out at t'Beach and she tagged along to Inverpollaidh, she's a good laugh. Gonna get up there bouldering over this winter...
Not been to Moy for a while. Aye, spoke to Tess the day after you were at Inverpollaidh at Goat Crag. That was a good weekend, to be fair the last 5 or 6 weekends have been mostly mint in the North West.
Give us a shout when you come up bouldering. Enjoy Arco.