UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => the blog pile => Topic started by: comPiler on April 09, 2010, 01:00:04 pm
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Woodwell & Trowbarrow Conditions (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/04/woodwell-trowbarrow-conditions.html)
9 April 2010, 11:54 am
Current south lakes conditions, according to various local activists, are mixed to say the least. By all accounts Trowbarrow is, as you would expect, pretty much completely dry, bar the odd hold. Whereas Woodwell is pretty much a wash out, with seepage lines on most climbs.
As an aside, the 'new' circuit at Windy Clough (recently reported) dries almost instantly the rain stops...(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-4350682423351705645?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Rakerigg Crag Finally Added (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/04/rakerigg-crag-finally-added.html)
11 April 2010, 12:07 pm
This is a crag Dave Birkett showed me a long time ago, and after a few visits (over a number of years) I thought it time I finally got around to sticking up a page and topo for the crag.
This venue has a somewhat unique past, full details of which can be found on the "Crag's Page"...
http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-east/274-rakerigg-crag.html
There are also a few action images on our Facebook page here...
http://www.facebook.com/pages/LakesBloccom/338554937459(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-8681194490440600673?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Dry Crags (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/04/dry-crags.html)
15 April 2010, 12:12 pm
Conditions seem good across the Lakes and in light of the fact there is little rain on the horizon get out while you can.
Of the limestone crags, Woodwell is still the dampest venue. However that said, climbing is still easily possible on most buttresses.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-5336895602034737728?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Ennerdale Bouldering Circuit (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/04/ennerdale-circuit.html)
25 April 2010, 10:37 am
Yesterday I thought it was about time I got around to checking out a small, far flung bouldering circuit I was told about a number of years ago, by an intrepid explorer known only (to me at least) as “Pil”.
The circuit in question is a few miles down the valley of Ennerdale, in western Lakeland. For those unfamiliar with the valley, it is extremely isolated, by UK standards at least, and takes a fair while to reach even from the nearest sizable town of Whitehaven. On top of this, the valley road terminates at the head of the lake, from which the valley derives its name. As such the only way to reach the end of the coulee is on foot or by mountain bike. Personally I think this is great, as the valley gives you a real sense of what the Lakes was like before the onslaught of tourism and all the cheese ball trimmings and litter loutish behavior that brings. Anyway I digress…
Tom Newberry on Visual Impact 7a+/V7Let’s make one thing clear from the outset: this place is not a major destination; it’s not even a minor destination. However, from time to time we do get the odd request for bouldering information relating to Ennerdale, so in the interest of definitivism [sic] I thought we should recce the area and report the findings.
Pil, the aforementioned spiller of the beans, documented his information in way of a photographic journal of what he had sent and descriptions for the lines in question. Unfortunately though we didn’t have any real idea of where the blocks were, so we just had to head down the valley in exploratory mode hoping for the best. After a couple of miles of fruitless searching we had a piece of good fortune; two gents – obviously climbers – came pounding down the valley track on mountain bikes, and after the obligatory “aye up” I realized I had met one of the gents before. It turned out to be a guy I had last met in Switzerland two years previously (Neil I believe is his name), who was out with his mate to do some routes on Pillar Rock. Fortuitously, Neil’s mate was a local who recognised, from my description, the trackside block, and kindly filled us in with location details. The game was afoot.
Tom Newberry on The Grinding Mind 7b+/V8
Once we had located the boulder by the track we pieced together the locations of the other boulders (all in the near vicinity) and in turn had a great day working our way through Pil’s circuit – I had printed off all his images, and as such identifying the blocks was easy enough once we were on the right track. Despite the isolation of the area, if you are a keen boulderer operating in the mid to higher grades (the best problems are 7a/+ and above) and are ever in the area for some reason, Pil’s lines are well worth seeking out. In particular, Visual Impact (7a+/V7) and The Grinding Mind (7b+/V8) are absoutly superb, and would be classics at any crag.
Due to the esoteric nature of the area I haven’t put together an actual topo as such. However, the following *Google map contains parking, approach, boulder locations, and problem descriptions, which should suffice if used in combination with a few printed off action shots.
View Ennerdale Boulders (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&t=k&msa=0&msid=107550408925130890867.0004850b69e037aeeb61d&ll=54.51311,-3.324394&spn=0.055805,0.136986&z=12&source=embed) in a larger map
*Note: The forests on the Google map do not accurately represent those actually in place, as the area is deforested and replanted regularly - i.e. the tree cover changes depending on logging activities.
To check out Pil's original info/images click here (http://www.pils-trips.com/lakes/index.html).
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-7351818656838864638?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Farleton Abuse (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/04/farleton-abuse.html)
25 April 2010, 3:22 pm
Farleton was in good nick today, despite the intermittent drizzle.
On the down side I was disappointed to see scratch marks on the Family Planning area, as well as bucket loads of chalk on New Rose and the problems around The Coil.
Whilst it's great that people are visiting these areas, I would hope that people climbing in the 7s would know not to leave so much chalk, so many tick marks and so much rubbish (I've taken the finger tape and bottles away).
C'mon people, let's try to have some respect for our crags.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-6093867504806691250?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Site & Guide Update Plus New Problems (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/05/site-guide-update-plus-new-problems.html)
9 May 2010, 11:08 am
I have added a fairly simplistic yet useful addition to the site, which offers related information on relevant "Crag" and "News" pages. Basically, if you are on a specific crag page the site will show the 5 latest news stories relating to that crag, in the menu column to the right. Likewise, if on any given news story, all related crags page links will appear in the same place to the right.
On the new problems front there are a couple of additions to the Brant Fell circuit, and a notable hard(ish) send up at Sampson's Stones...
http://lakesbloc.com/news/278-brant-fell-a-the-ergosphere.html
I have added the new Sampson's Stone line to the guide (for those who don't know where it is) and also amended a couple of errors...
http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-west/170-sampsons-stones.html(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-3729534209616005651?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Graded Lists Updated (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/05/graded-lists-updated.html)
9 May 2010, 1:20 pm
Let me know if you notice any cock ups...
By Crag
http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bycrag.pdf
By Grade
http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bygrade.pdf(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-2824215032016620069?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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It's Hot... (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/05/its-hot.html)
23 May 2010, 10:22 am
Very hot indeed.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-871074629290925885?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Woodwell Still Dry (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/06/woodwell-still-dry.html)
11 June 2010, 10:44 am
Checked out Woodwell last night, and despite the indifferent/damp weather of late the crag is bearing up well, with almost everything being dry enough to climb.
Also, I did a new problem at the crag that shall not be named, see here (http://www.facebook.com/pages/LakesBloccom/338554937459#!/photo.php?pid=4220228&id=338554937459) for further details.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-2605583015505974676?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Fleswick Topo Updated (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/06/fleswick-topo-updated.html)
22 June 2010, 6:31 pm
A few more climbs have been done at the Fleswick Bay Boulders (I'll write a news report soon), these have been added to the basic topo, making for an increasingly worthwhile circuit...
http://lakesbloc.com/guides/fleswick-boulders.pdf(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-6951898372388291004?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Woodwell Guide Updated (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/06/woodwell-guide-updated.html)
30 June 2010, 12:39 pm
I have added a few additions to the Woodwell guide, as well as adjusted a few grades.
Most notably is The Crushinator, which, since the release of the guide, has been made much easier by the use of the beta whereby you slap to a decent side pull hold (rather than the slopey blob originally used). This now makes the stand up around the 7a mark. That said, a proper sitter starting at the back of the roof, has now been done - start between Lily Pond Walk and Superstar DJ Low - which keeps the sitter grade at around the 7b+ mark.
I have forgotten to add Paroxysm Low to the guide, I'll remedy this ASAP.
http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/south-lakes-limestone/233-woodwell.html(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-2854248397440390439?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Woodwell Wet (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/07/woodwell-wet.html)
19 July 2010, 5:03 pm
Looked in at Woodwell- Tom's and Not Bad Dave areas- and it was pretty wet. Also a fair bit of seepage from the usual places. All in all I suspect it will need a few dry days to dry things up again. Is this the end of Summer?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-7854961616912512268?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Dry Tooling at Farleton! (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/07/dry-tooling-at-farleton.html)
30 July 2010, 9:25 am
With reference to GCW's post a month or two back, I yesterday got the chance to see, first hand, the damage at Farleton.
This is has blatantly been caused by someone - a complete novice judging by the damage - dry tooling on the crag, which is just plain out of order. To add insult to injury, presumably the same person or persons has inscribed 'FPC' at the base of the Family Planning Centre sector, which is as perplexing as it is outrageous. I am reliably informed that something similar has occurred on the 'Nicks Traverse' sector at Hutton Roof, which is an equally idyllic unspoilt (not to mention SSSI) crag where this should not be happening.
I hope this is just some misguided individual/s getting it all wrong, and not a malicious act. In either case, if you are the individuals involved please stop.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-5364566992177568164?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Most Popular Crags List (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/08/most-popular-crags-list.html)
2 August 2010, 12:03 pm
Ok so we all love a good list; so here is a list of the most popular crags (in terms of number of guides downloaded) in the LakesBloc region so far this year...
- Woodell
- Kentmere
- Limestone Link (Farleton, Hutton Roof, Dalton)
- Carrock Fell
- St. Bees South
- Bowderstone
- St Bees North
- Windy Clough
- Trowbarrow Quarry
- Thorn Crag
- Langdale Boulders
- Fairy Steps
- Old Buoys Circuit (St. Bees)
- Warton Crag
- Rakerigg
- Gillercombe
- Thirlmere
- Armathwaite
- Sampson's Stones
- Fleswick Boulders (St. Bees)
- Shucks Lair (Fairy Steps)
- Cringlebarrow
- Settle Earth Boulders (Longsleddale)
- Blake Rigg Boulders
- Red Wall Eliminates (Trowbarrow)
- Lad Stones
- Langstrath
- Honister Pass
- Heysham Head
- Duddon Valley Boulders
- Eskdale Granite
- Cam Crag
- Hyning Wood
- High Rock (Honister Pass)
- Black Crag
- Gouther Crag
- Long Crag
- Rolling Rock (Patterdale)
- Virtual Crag
- Stirrup Stones
- Clough Pike
- Heron Stones
Not sure if there's much, if anything, to learn from that, but one thing I do know: with Sampson's Stones ranking in the top 5 LakesBloc venues, in terms of quality, more people should be making the effort to get up there!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-697300000301105385?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Updated Guides (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/08/updated-guides.html)
6 August 2010, 8:15 pm
The following guides have been updated:
Gillercombe & Sour Milk Ghyll (http://lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/198-gillercombe-a-sour-milk-ghyll.html) (Major)
St. Bees Head - South (http://lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/238-st-bees-head-south-.html) (Minor)
Sampson's Stones (http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-west/170-sampsons-stones.html) (Minor)
Trowbarrow Quarry (http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-lakes-limestone/232-trowbarrow-quarry.html) (Major)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-3789767964455817595?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Bowderstone Guide Updated (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/08/bowderstone-guide-updated.html)
13 August 2010, 9:22 am
In line with the numerous recent guide updates, I have given the Bowderstone guide a bit of a makeover. As with all the modern LB guides it now has the split Font/V grading system, as well as a few grade tweaks and a new cover....
Bowderstone Aug-2010 Update (PDF 4.81mb) (http://www.lakesbloc.com/guides/bowderstone-guide.pdf)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-6447569785446785248?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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New Langdale Boulders Guide (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/09/new-langdale-boulders-guide.html)
19 September 2010, 10:53 am
I've knocked up a new topo/guide for the Langdale Boulders. I toyed with the idea of doing a photo-topo guide for the blocks but in the end, having used the Rockfax (photo-topo) and FRCC (overview) topos I figured that the overview method was more than adequate to purvey the information for the pure lines and worthwhile traverses at the area.
I find it a little bizarre that the Rockfax guide actually has such a level detail and inclusion of eliminates for this crag, when 90% of the other crags featured are fairly selectively/vaguely described? The contrast in accuracy and inclusion between this crag and the Bowderstone, for example, is staggering. Ah well I digress.
Any who, here is my simple new Langdale topo...
http://lakesbloc.com/guides/langdale-boulders-guide.pdf(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-8402225959490956276?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Iphone & Android 'Stone' Guide (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/10/iphone-android-bowderstone-guide.html)
15 October 2010, 11:45 am
Iphone & Android Bowderstone guide 'Smart Phone Aps' now fully functioning and available for free here....
http://www.thesend.co.uk/apps/bowderstone.php
http://lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/81-bowderstone.html
21st Century Guiding!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-9111764925714992515?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Mosedale Boulders Guide (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/10/mosedale-boulders-guide.html)
17 October 2010, 1:16 pm
I have added a basic photo-topo for the Mosedale Boulders, Carrock Fell to the database. This is directly available here...
http://lakesbloc.com/guides/carrock-mosedale-boulders-guide.pdf
For more info on these boulders and recent additions to the circuit see this new report...
http://lakesbloc.com/news/295-mexican-rumble-a-old-spice.html(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-1754093830173844807?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Snow (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/12/snow.html)
3 December 2010, 5:01 pm
A quick conditions update for the current snowy period.
Trowbarrow is in OK nick actually. The Shelterstone has a white hat but after a bit of brushing the problems finishing onto the slab are fine. Vitruvian may be more difficult to top out on though!
Woodwell is also in quite nice fettle, minimal seepage and not a lot of snow on the rock for Tom's across to Not Bad Dave.
Obviously if the temperatures rise a bit, there will be a lot of meltwater and everything will be soaked. Get to it whilst it's good!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-2105500622378331447?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Snow 2 (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2010/12/snow-2.html)
20 December 2010, 11:16 am
Whilst it goes without saying most places are badly affected by the recent snowy conditions, that usual oasis of good weather, St. Bees Head, has also (unlike last year) been hit by the snow. Most specifically the Northern Head, which yesterday had around 5cm of snow on most boulders, not to mention the central descent, which has been turned into a winter Grade II gully - not for the faint of heart! On the up side, the Southern Head (thanks to its more south facing aspect) was in excellent condition from a climbing point of view, although both (on foot) approaches are a little sketchy in places.
As it has remained cold and dry Thorn Crag was also in good nick on Saturday, although a big brush may be required to remove powder snow on some blocks. The main problem (as with many rural venues) is the state of the final cul-de-sac approach road, which remains untreated and is quite icy.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-7558688268851613121?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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St. Bees Issues (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/02/st-bees-issues.html)
16 February 2011, 1:02 pm
Thought I’d share this email I recently sent to the BMC with you, as it could affect anyone who utilizes St. Bees Head…
“First up, as I'm sure you are aware St. Bees becomes evermore popular as the years roll on (partially my fault I guess), and with the increased footfall and year-round visitors the descents are taking increasing hammer, to the point where the base of the central, and most used access point, is crumbling into the sea, becoming a) an eyesore and b) slightly dangerous - the last section does not have an insitu 'confidence rope'. The upper sections are also becoming quite worn, with the original vague trail becoming an obvious muddy track with a couple of deviations off the main path. A possible solution is perhaps to close this off through the winter months (when it is at its most fragile) and ask users to use the slightly longer but easier northern descent or the more 'adventurous' southern descent at the Fisherman's Steps?
The second issue is something that is probably beyond your control but I thought it was worth bringing to your attention, as it could in future cause access problems, if and when the RSPB catch wind of it. In a nut shell the fisherman who use the headland are generally complete arse holes! They persist on leaving copious amounts of litter and various other junk - plastic bags, large towels covered in fish guts, bags of semi-defrosted bait, teabags, crisp packets, sandwich rappers, fishing line, etc etc. - on the headland after their sessions, allowing it to be washed into the sea when the tide comes in. I do not over exaggerate when I say it is pretty much every fisherman I have ever seen on the headland, whether at the north or south head. If you want further details I can furnish you with numerous anecdotes of leaving the crag with my crash pad full of bags of THEIR rubbish which I have removed. Fortunately, whilst this is a fairly big problem on the southern head, there is still fairly low numbers prepared to handle the more arduous descent into the northern head, although it does seem as though numbers are increasing – there were 6 guys there last Sunday.”
I had a positive response from the BMC. With regards to the erosion issue: there are few obvious solutions tabled and this will be discussed at the next BMC “Lakes Area Meet”, so if anyone has any views on this please feel free to attend and give your input. Regarding the fishermen and their rubbish issue: there’s not a great deal we, as climbers, can do about this other than take anything you can away and dispose of it properly. Not our job I know, but it may help alleviate any future access issues.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-3857739557965860181?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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St Bees Head South - Landslip (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/02/st-bees-head-south-landslip.html)
17 February 2011, 12:55 pm
There's been a landslip at St. Bees Head - South, from hill/cliff above the north end of the beach. Shouldn't cause too many issues if you need to get to the crag but be careful...
More info and images
http://www.whitehaven-news.co.uk/news/path-safety-warning-as-coastal-cliff-crumbles (http://www.whitehaven-news.co.uk/news/path-safety-warning-as-coastal-cliff-crumbles-1.809023?referrerPath=news)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-4364663366572305085?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Not Bad Dave (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/03/not-bad-dave.html)
1 March 2011, 8:57 pm
Richie Hession reports that a chunk of rock has fallen out of the roof of Not Bad Dave at Woodwell Middle. The problem is still climbable, and the rock seems stable now but just be aware. The rock band under this roof has always been a bit brittle.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-7990283892579023402?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Planet Fear St. Bees Festival - Good Idea? Bad Idea? (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/03/planet-fear-st-bees-festival-good-idea.html)
11 March 2011, 12:33 pm
I have now had a number of negative comments and emails shot my way regarding the forth coming Planet Fear Bouldering Festival (http://www.planetfear.com/news/St_Bees_Bouldering_Festival_2011_2631.html), to be held at the crag from the 29th to 31st April. I have emailed the BMC for their view (as they apparently endorse the event, according to PF), but in the mean time I have put a poll on the the LakesBloc home page, I'd be keen for your input. Thanks.
http://www.lakesbloc.com/(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-543561382885348347?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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St. Bees Festival Blog Posts (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/03/st-bees-festival-blog-posts.html)
16 March 2011, 4:23 pm
These 3 post have been removed for the time being whilst we try and clarify some massively contradictory information coming out of the BMC (too many cooks?), in regards to their position on this event.
Due to the implications of the BMC email quotes pasted into the aforementioned blog posts, it would be unfair on Planet Fear to leave them live until we can establish exactly what the BMC's stance on the matter is.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-8470812800353353293?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Judging by the poll on Lakesbloc and several emails I have received, there seem to be a number of people who have serious concerns about staging a commercial event like this at St Bees. Perhaps we should widen the debate and start a dedicated thread for it in the NEWS section on the main board?
tc
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Woodwell Pretty Dry (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/03/woodwell-pretty-dry.html)
28 March 2011, 6:45 pm
The word on the street suggests that the majority of Woodwell is pretty much dry, bar the usual damp breaks....(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-1368597722853172943?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Top 50 List: Update Time (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/03/top-50-list-update-time.html)
31 March 2011, 12:32 pm
I'd quite like to update the "Top 50 Boulder Problems" list on the site (see link below), as it hasn't really had a proper overhaul for five years or so. Any recommendations for removals and replacements across the grade spread would be appreciated in the form of comments below...
Current List: www.lakesbloc.com/tick-lists/top-50-problems.html (http://www.lakesbloc.com/tick-lists/top-50-problems.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-7687435257150814868?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Slightly off topic but didn't Yellow Desert Scream initially get reported as 7C before quickly being downgraded to 7B+ which I assumed it stayed at. I see it is 7A on your list which is quite a downgrade!
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Slightly off topic but didn't Yellow Desert Scream initially get reported as 7C before quickly being downgraded to 7B+ which I assumed it stayed at. I see it is 7A on your list which is quite a downgrade!
Staying off topic (!): YDS never got 7c, it was originally given 7b+. I have since been proved wrong about this, quite comprehensively! In my defence I did it with a foolish sequence at the start - matching left foot to hand (dropped to mono) in small pocket near arete and rocking it out to the crimp using a pinch on the arete. There is a pic in an old OTE I think. An easier sequence was found and it was rightly dropped in grade. It also finishes direct over the nose. I know most people jib out left into the groove at the top, a variation I wanted to call Yellow Bellied Whimper. That too is easier than the original, and much less scary. I repeated it using the more normal foot in obvious (!) big pockets down left but still topping out direct and felt it was about 7a+.
On topic: some wonderful problems on that list! :2thumbsup:
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Did YDS again today and it was much easier than I remembered and 7A+ is probably fair. It is such an amazing problem and i'm surprised it doesn't get three stars in the new topo.
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As stated, the '50 best' list is out of date. YDS gets 7a+ in the new guide and on the 7&8s list, whilst Yellow Belled Whimper gets 7a.
I have a star formula: line, landing, climbing. Has to tick all these to get three stars. Landing is a bit whack, thus 2 stars.
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Fair enough. What about By The Power of Raa!? The landing is good but you hit from up to 6 metres!
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Planet Fear - The Corporate Express? (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/04/planet-fear-corporate-express.html)
6 April 2011, 12:54 pm
Ok, so it looks like Planet Fear are going to go ahead with their St. Bees Bouldering festival, having decided they are unprepared to accept the views of many local activists – including a number of key developers of the area and some of the ‘founding fathers’ and equippers of the cliffs – who all think it is an ill-conceived idea (due to the fragility of the area and not wanting set a precedent for these kind events happening on the headland in future) and essentially a marketing exercise.
The assertion placed on this Blog stating that Planet Fear had no right to advertise the event as a BMC endorsed event was proven correct, and the BMC asked PF to remove the BMC logo’s and affiliation text from their website, which they have now done. In an email the BMC sent to all concerned parties, the BMC said it in no way endorsed this event, but said it could not find objection if various access protocols were adhered to.
The underlying issue Planet Fear seem to have missed is that this is NOT a suitable place for this kind of corporate event. Despite PF’s offer of a litter sweep and claims all excess funds raised from the sales of accommodation, topos, parking etc. (all via their website) will be given to the BMC/local bolt fund, this is completely unverifiable as it is an event run by a commercial business with no external governance from an impartial body – how are we supposed to know how much money has been taken?
On a personal note, I feel particularly peeved that PF are charging for a topo to St. Bees, that will, I have no doubt, be primarily ‘researched’ via my website, which I spend countless unpaid hours and litres of petrol updating. More fool me you might say.
Anyway, Planet Fear have added their own ‘Yes-No Poll’ to their Facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/planetFear), so I suggest the people who voted on the LakesBloc Poll make their voices heard via this medium if they so wish, as I am now turning the LB poll off. Planet Fear Poll. (http://www.facebook.com/planetFear)
For Planet Fear's current stance click here (http://www.planetfear.com/news/The_St_Bees_Bouldering_Festival_2662.html).
LakesBloc Poll Final Result (click for larger view):
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-4435692188311363925?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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I agree with you 100% on this one, Greg.
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Me too, what a sack of shit.
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And me.
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http://www.planetfear.com/events/planetFear_St_Bees_Bouldering_Festival_2115.html#comments (http://www.planetfear.com/events/planetFear_St_Bees_Bouldering_Festival_2115.html#comments)
Sadly i expect any neagtive comments will be deleted.
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agree too, can't believe 70 people have voted yes for this. :thumbsdown: very poor choice of venue
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agree too, can't believe 70 people have voted yes for this.
I'm surprised at some of the names on that list too.
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:agree: This is pants. How's about going to the local press Greg and getting to the wider public?
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Would the wider public understand the issues?
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I'm surprised that a commercial organisation such as PlanetFear would ignore a fair amount of opinion regarding this, it just smacks of arrogance and a lack of respect for the bouldering scene.
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Not just bouldering, climbing as a whole; I think they intend doing the sport climbs too, and besides the non-climbing public cannot really discern a difference.
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agree too, can't believe 70 people have voted yes for this.
I'm surprised at some of the names on that list too.
Ditto.
I've voted nay. Personally, I think calling yourself 'Planetfear' is enough of a crime in itself.
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I wonder if some of the BMC staff voting for this are doing so on behalf of the BMC?
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Would the wider public understand the issues?
I think they'd understand the implications of a massive bunch of people and cars descending on the place, they obviously probably wouldnt care for the climbing, but i think they'd be a little concerned for their 'backyard' so to speak. A lot of 'rural' folk have far more interest and understanding of ecology and the effect this could have in real terms than most others. They would also be interested id thought to know it was going ahead in the face of a lot of local opposition.
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I can understand some of the influential people who've voted yes have done it for commercial reasons- photographers, promoters and the such, but a taking a look at the list of "no" voters is a prolific roll-call of local and national activists, some of which may have done a lot at St. Bees and others who may not have done. A great effort in profiling the "no" campaign, Greg, and I'm fully behind you, but I think we're about to get steam-rolled by the corporation.
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Maybe these comments should get shifted into the st bees fest thread and will be more easily viewed ?
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Im not trying to stir the pot. Ive just re read pf's website, and this is disgraceful, what a strange attitude.
they state straight away...
"After six months as planetFear in Keswick, we wanted to do something for the local climbing community who have supported us so far. Many of our staff are regular visitors to St Bees, so we thought it would make sense if we could use their local knowledge to the benefit of the people interested in climbing in the area"
So after only 6 months having moved into an area they decide to give something back... fair enough... but then when then hit some opposition.. they spit their dummy... apparently they are not aware of the steps being taken to deal with the problems of 30+ tents, associated cars, barbeques, access to the climbing etc etc this is going to cause. Yeh sorry for being the ignorant selfish local. :o
"Some local climbing activists, used to having the area pretty much to themselves, have voiced opposition to the event, citing access, environmental, and erosion concerns. They were not aware of the steps we are planning to take to mitigate these, outlined above. They will no doubt stay away for the duration of the event, and return when they can have ‘their' crag back."
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I'm about 200 miles off being a local, as are the majority of the people who have opposed this event! I've only been once in my life (unfortunately) but even I can see it's not a great idea!
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Okes, I'm going to own up here, I'm going to this. :guilty: Before I get puntered into obscurity hear me out!
I'm a big fan of the bouldering at St Bees and I've been on quite a few trips up there previously. I'm also up in the lakes over that period anyway and had planned to spend a couple of days in that area, so when I saw the ads for the PF thing I figured it would make for convenient camping and some entertaining banter in the evening. Feeling a bit guilty now like! Thing is I could cancel my ticket but I'd still be going that weekend, and would have to stay on some crowded bank holiday campsite somewhere fending off chavs.
The one thing that confuses me about the objections though. Twice at the north head I've seen instructors with a gaggle of young teens scrabbling up the easier problems. Surely the impact of 60 people. who for the most part I'd hope are experienced climbers and know how to look after the rock, over 2 days is going to be far less that this regular group use by instructors?
Chris, who will be taking his own topo, and cleaning his boots :wavecry:
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The one thing that confuses me about the objections though. Twice at the north head I've seen instructors with a gaggle of young teens scrabbling up the easier problems. Surely the impact of 60 people. who for the most part I'd hope are experienced climbers and know how to look after the rock, over 2 days is going to be far less that this regular group use by instructors?
I don't recall anyone condoning the use of the venue for instructional purposes though so I don't see why you're confused.
Now that you've highlighted it I bet others who are against the PF event would be as opposed to this as well, I know I am.
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Okes, I'm going to own up here, I'm going to this. :guilty: Before I get puntered into obscurity hear me out!
I'm a big fan of the bouldering at St Bees and I've been on quite a few trips up there previously. I'm also up in the lakes over that period anyway and had planned to spend a couple of days in that area, so when I saw the ads for the PF thing I figured it would make for convenient camping and some entertaining banter in the evening. Feeling a bit guilty now like! Thing is I could cancel my ticket but I'd still be going that weekend, and would have to stay on some crowded bank holiday campsite somewhere fending off chavs.
The one thing that confuses me about the objections though. Twice at the north head I've seen instructors with a gaggle of young teens scrabbling up the easier problems. Surely the impact of 60 people. who for the most part I'd hope are experienced climbers and know how to look after the rock, over 2 days is going to be far less that this regular group use by instructors?
Chris, who will be taking his own topo, and cleaning his boots :wavecry:
Thanks for posting squire. I have no problem with you or anyone who has booked, my complaints a leveled directly at Planet Fear. I agree with slack---line, I would have just as much objection to the place being used for random group use as for this 'festival' - I'm fairly sure it is officially frowned upon. As well as the other issues raised, it sets a precedent for this sort of thing, how long before Go Outdoors or the like start running events down there, a terrifying thought, and one you would be hard pressed to stop happening if this event goes ahead.
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Fair play :) I'll be sure to :furious: at anyone I see fucking the place up.
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I could cancel my ticket
Did you pay to attend the event?
I fail to understand how organising an event like this is "giving something back"
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There was quite a negative attitude when people had a comp at a well known crag years back. Has anything changed since?
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There was quite a negative attitude when people had a comp at a well known crag years back. Has anything changed since?
Petzl rock trips seems to get a fair bit of coverage and enjoyed by many participants, perhaps thats what set the ball rolling on these types of events, or in part is responsible for popularising them.
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Woodwell (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/04/woodwell.html)
12 April 2011, 10:51 am
Woodwell was dry today.
I note that the BOBN hold has finally fallen off leaving a much less positive edge. Part of the Closer undercut has also broken, although this makes minimal difference.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-903314332915435112?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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:'(
Any plans for glue?
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I don't know who (if anyone) has the hold.
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Was a matter of time, was there a month ago and it was pretty destroyed! Such a shame
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New Duddon Venue (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/04/new-duddon-venue.html)
20 April 2011, 9:35 am
Over the last month or so myself and Andy Hebson, have been feverishly working out, cleaning up and documenting a previously unrecorded bouldering area in the Duddon Valley, in the western Lakes...
Find out more via the site:
http://lakesbloc.com/news/304-best-in-the-west-extensive-new-area.html (http://lakesbloc.com/news/304-best-in-the-west-extensive-new-area.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-3024369544860554765?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Farleton Dry Tooling Continues (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/04/farleton-dry-tooling-continues.html)
23 April 2011, 12:11 pm
The blithering idiot/s who have, over the last year or so, been dry tooling on the crags around Farleton and Hutton Roof, seem still to be active, as the scratches and damage to the right of New Rose show...
Do you really need to be told that this is a bad idea, and completely detrimental to the rock and area!?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-8542431205500355677?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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I can not believe this shit continues.
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Lad Stones - Sort Out (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/05/lad-stones-sort-out.html)
2 May 2011, 8:42 am
As briefly mentioned in the latest news report on the site, I have sorted a few landings and cleaned a number of problems up at the Lad Stones, Tilberthwaite.
I continued where Dan Varian left off, by evening out (as much as possible) the superb, steep back face of the Panorama Stone. I’ve also sorted the terrible landing of the large impressive prow on the right side of this face, which was apparently climbed last year by Mick Adams. This was achieved by filling the chasm with dead gorse bushes, which has created a surprisingly good (springy) landing, when covered with a couple of pads.
Image top right: sorted landing of the big prow on the back of the Panorama Stone.
Other problems recently cleaned include: Hades Lair, Warstater and the Underground Butler, the good warm ups on the small block below Groove Armada, and finally, The Death Clock and Booze Baron on The Bothy. The last problem mentioned has lost a handhold and is now considerably harder (7b+?), and less good than when in its original state. The top outs to Smoking Guns and the highball 6c crack, on The Bothy, could do with a sort out, but I haven’t gotten around to this as yet. The fantastic Traci Lords, has also lost the small LH start gaston originally used, although there is a small pocket below the gaston. It looks like it will now be a bit harder – 8aish? Mick Adam's may have done it in its current state, although this is unconfirmed.
Below is a topo of the fantastic Warstater Face on the back of the Panorama Stone - a must visit face for all Bowderstone aficionados.
Problems
- Rocko's Modern Life (7a+/V7) SDS From the far left corner climb a rightward curving line into p2 and finish via this.
- Hades Lair (7a/V6) SDS From a big side pull and slot make a powerful move to a good hold and continue direct to finish. *
- Warstarter (7b+/V8) SDS Start at the base of p2, pull on and move right to a rail, then up right again to two small parallel slots/pockets. From here climb direct to the top of the block. There are a few dodgy looking holds high up, try to avoid these - there are plenty of other solid grips to choose from. **
- 7a/V6 SDS Use a good, obvious slot/pocket for your RH and a small edge LH to pull on and up to the rail, continue left into p2 and finish as per this.
- Warstarter RH (7c/V9) SDS Start a little lower the the previous problem, with the good slot/pocket for your LH and and a small crimpy pocket for your RH. Make a couple of tough moves to gain the rail and finish as per p3. Finishing as per p4 is 7b+.
- Battalyst (7c+/V10) SDS Start as per p1 but link into p3 to finish. Maybe 7c/V9?
- Big Prow (7c) The highball prow from standing utilizes some thin holds and a big a reach. Not sure if the sitter has been done?
Finally a big shout out to Ben Freeman, Dave Jones, Dan Turner, Tom Newberry, Andi Smith, Mick Adams, Tony Simpson and Dan Varian who's efforts in getting up to this great venue (despite the current poor info available for the crag - my bad!) and apply some traffic and add new problems, has helped shift loose rock, cleanup the holds and give useful feedback. Thanks guys.
If anyone else is thinking of visiting in the near future, I have added a few new images to relevant gallery on LakesBloc, to help drum up some psyche:
http://www.lakesbloc.com/gallerys/242-lad-stones-gallery.html
Warstarter Video
warstarter font 7b+ (http://vimeo.com/12911912) from beastmaker.co.uk (http://vimeo.com/user1146343) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-6436138105009024764?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Excellent gallery there Greg.
Whats the padding necessary for the majority of stuff? Would you feel safe on most of the problems with 3 mats? Will aim to make a trip there at some point before this nice weather ends!
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2011 Top 50 Draft (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/05/2011-top-50-draft.html)
22 May 2011, 10:40 am
The link below goes to a first draft of the new 2011 LakesBloc 'Top 50 Best problems' list. I have taken on various suggestions, however if anyone has any more thoughts fire away. There is also a list of a few problems which came close to making the list at the base of the doc. If you think any of these are more worthy than actual inclusions, again let me know...
http://www.lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/LB-TOP50-2011-DRAFT.pdf(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-219587164251034713?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Bowderstone WIKI (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/05/bowderstone-wiki.html)
28 May 2011, 11:15 am
I have put together a WIKI website for the Bowderstone. All the main guide inclusions have been added, plus a number of newer links/eliminates, many with photo-topos and video links.
Due to the almost infinite number of variations, links and eliminates possible on the mighty Stone, I thought this would be a good way for anybody and everybody to record their favourite variants, without the need of adding them all to the guide, and making it stupidly large and complex. It is also a way of ironing grade disputes, problems with broken holds, and the exact description/rules for specific problems.
If you want to join the WIKI feel free, anybody can sign up and add/edit pages, although I urge you to read the 'How to use this Wiki (http://bowderstone.wetpaint.com/page/How+to+use+this+Wiki)' page before you plow ahead.
Bowderstone WIKI
http://bowderstone.wetpaint.com/(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-5783006400442541379?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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50 BEST BLOCS (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/05/50-best-blocs.html)
29 May 2011, 11:55 am
Here it is, the latest incarnation of the LakesBloc top 50 best boulder problems list.
50 BEST BLOC: Tick List
http://lakesbloc.com/tick-lists/top-50-problems.html
(PDF printable/tickable version at the base of the page)
As always, I'm sure I'll have left something out, that someone thinks should have been a "certain inclusion", but hey you can't please everyone... maybe I'll do a 'Top 100' list on the blog sometime?
Any who, get ticking....(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-3816483462729207717?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Woodell Conditions (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/06/woodell-conditions.html)
2 June 2011, 12:41 pm
All the buttresses seem to be dry and in good nick, especially when the wind is blowing.
Up at Farelton, I noticed yet more dry tooling marks the other day. Words fail me.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-4283692861215086343?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Trowbarrow Wet (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/06/trowbarrow-wet.html)
23 June 2011, 10:57 am
The Shelterstone has a decent amount of seepage at present, and with the current wet weather this is likely to continue for a while.
As an aside, take care as some thoughtless gimp has left their bowel contents in the landing zone for Vitruvian Man.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-4559600918951906042?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Dry & New Problems (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/07/dry-new-problems.html)
3 July 2011, 8:49 am
After a good week of dry and not too humid weather, everywhere is seemingly dry or nearly dry. Of course you may have to find somewhere in the shade or that catches a good breeze now summer has finally arrived (for how long is anyone's guess).
These class (probable) new problems at Fleswick Bay fit at least one of the criteria above, and are worth checking out if you are in the vicinity, plus if all else fails you can go for refreshing dip!
http://lakesbloc.com/news/311-oh-i-do-like-to-be-beside-the-seaside.html(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-8321893671412746984?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Bad Moon Rising (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/07/bad-moon-rising.html)
29 July 2011, 2:55 pm
Having been up to Thorn today, I can see a few of the problems are starting to suffer. The low footholds on Fix my Sink/ And for my Next Trick are becoming progressively more worn, Mothership probably doesn't need any more brushing, but more worrying was the Bad Moon Rising flake.
Today the flake visibly flexed significantly and is evidently on its last legs. What should be done about this is a good question. It's hollow behind, and held only by the thin rock at the left end. It's also pretty eroded. I din't try the problem today because of the likelyhood someone as fat as me would snap it off.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-548043941561539664?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Fairy Steps Access Issues (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/07/fairy-steps-access-issues.html)
31 July 2011, 12:11 pm
Just a quick word of warning regarding Fairy Steps: as of the last access discussion between the BMC access officer and co. pretty much the whole of the crag – bar 50m either side of the actual ‘Fairy Steps’ – is now banned for climbing use. I was told by those involved in negotiations that they are still pressing for a more helpful (reasonable) compromise, however this is technically the state of play.
Obviously, stopping people climbing on the Upper Tier is fairly unrealistic as a public right of way tracks the crag for most of its length, with the escarpments rarely being more than 40m from the path. Obviously anything on or around the Lower Tier is a little easier to police, as the landowners, over the past three or four years, have systematically closed most of the old footpath network that covered the lower hillside.
Whilst the BMC site reflects the info above it is hardly categoric in its stance, this mirrors the rather ambiguous info I was given.
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=501
Just thought it was worth a heads up, as I know a few people have been confronted by gamekeepers and the like.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-5127410223682109674?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Brant Fell Chipping (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/08/brant-fell-chipping_07.html)
7 August 2011, 8:53 am
There is currently a thread on ukclimbing.com (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=469600) regarding some apparent recent chipping at Brant Fell. I struggle to understand the mentality of why someone would do this, and on the face of it you wonder if the person who has noticed/reported the ‘chipping’ has mistaken some innocent hold breakage for a more malevolent act. Sadly, in this circumstance, it is not the case, as can be seen in the images below. These were taken in the last couple of days by keen Brant Fell local user George North, who told me the following: “Headed up to Brant Fell this evening for a bit of traversing. Took a few photos of the chipped footholds. There's about 6 chipped holds. There's one hold that makes a move a bit easier than it was - for the most part it's fairly pointless though. Fortunately they haven't chipped the one foothold on the traverse that would make it a fair bit easier.”
Beggars belief really, and I’m not sure what you can say or do about it, other than keeping a keen eye out for the perpetrator – surely nobody in this day and age is doing this sort of thing unaware that it is completely unacceptable?
Brant Fell Chipping: Image 1
Brant Fell Chipping: Image 2
Brant Fell Chipping: Image 3
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-2517702006797665675?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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New Fence at Woodwell (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/08/new-fence-at-woodwell.html)
17 August 2011, 11:33 am
I noticed on the UKBouldering.com forum (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18419.0.html) someone raised the issue of a new fence being erected by the entrance to Pylon Buttress, at Woodwell. This shouldn't be a problem, it's presumably a new fence to replace the old wire one which deteriorated a few years back. Unlike the original fence this new installation does not completely block the way through to the crag, and is just a means to keep walkers to the main footpath – which goes up to the right at the same point where the (now well trodden) path to the crag goes left.
Whilst the land on which the crag lies is technically private and owned by the National Trust, the last correspondence with NT suggested they tolerate climbing at these sectors so long as foliage remains undamaged and the area is kept free of litter and loud noise.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-2213209405973706943?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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New Guide & New Problems (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/09/new-guide-new-problems.html)
11 September 2011, 2:59 pm
I have done a new guide for the stuff on the Seathwaite Fells, which includes a bunch of very good new problems. There are links to the guide, crag info and a gallery available via the link below:
http://www.lakesbloc.com/news/321-seathwaite-circuit-2011.html(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-997941821398635721?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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New Amenities Map (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/09/new-amenities-map.html)
17 September 2011, 9:45 am
I have added a map tagging a number of useful amenities in the Lakes area, which will hopefully be of use to visiting climbers. If you have any suggestions for amenities not included thus far, feel free to make some suggestions and I will add them accordingly....
http://lakesbloc.com/amenities-map.html(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-7441106005730627293?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Woodwell O'ert Road Access (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/10/woodwell-oert-road-access.html)
14 October 2011, 3:20 pm
There is work afoot to open up Woodwell O'ert Road to climbers once again. The negotiations with the National Trust appear to have concluded positively and we are awaiting the NT to finish off work to the access point. They have bolstered the wall with cement and are (hopefully) putting in access information signs over the next few weeks. I will post something when I have had confirmation that the green light has been given, until then please DO NOT visit the crag, as this may jeopardize the process.
Thanks should go to Les Ainsworth for facilitating the negotiations and to the BMC who have funded the cost of the wall restoration, signs and perhaps a stile, although I'm unsure to whether the latter is part of the deal.
Once again, please DO NOT visit the crag until you have heard otherwise.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-4452380905518902862?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Woodwell O'ert Road Access Granted (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/10/woodwell-oert-road-access-granted.html)
25 October 2011, 4:09 pm
Right then, we have been given the green light to use the crag, however, if you intend to visit please read the rules of engagement:
The National Trust have recently joined in partnership with the BMC to reinstate access to three bouldering areas on Woodwell O'ert Road on a trial basis: Wolf Buttress, Troll Buttress and Cave Buttress.
Climbers are welcome to come and enjoy the bouldering on the three designated areas but please observe the following conditions when visiting:
1. For ecological reasons, bouldering is only permitted on the three designated areas. Climbers should not proceed past Cave Buttress - this will be marked with a sign.
2. Dogs are not allowed.
3. Climbers must not enter the field directly below the rock.
The above is from the updated Woodwell access info page, which is available to view on the BMC website:
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=680
Please adhere to all of the above as well as keeping the crag clear of litter (that includes tape and fag butts!) and minimize chalking where possible (i.e. brush off tick marks after your session) as this is essentially a trial run.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-2407935989965491150?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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New Signs at O'ert Road (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2011/10/new-signs-at-oert-road.html)
31 October 2011, 1:59 pm
I went down to Woodwell O'ert Road yesterday to checkout the state of play, since access was re-opened. Two signs have been erected: one by the entrance point (which is over the wall next to the road, as it always was) and a second immediately right of Cave Buttress (i.e. just right of Angel Deelite). The wall at the entrance has been bolstered with cement, but a stile isn't likely to be added, to maintain the area's low profile, and presumably not make it look like a right-of-way.
As previously stated the signs state the following:
Climbers are welcome to come and enjoy the bouldering on the three designated areas but please observe the following conditions when visiting:
1. For ecological reasons, bouldering is only permitted on the three designated areas. Climbers should not proceed past Cave Buttress - this will be marked with a sign.
2. Dogs are not allowed.
3. Climbers must not enter the field directly below the rock.
Please keep to these simple, common sense protocols, along with keeping the area litter free to ensure access is maintained.
I will also be updating the Lakesbloc Woodwell guide access info ASAP.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-7495384606539166521?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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50 Best List on UKClimbing (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/02/50-best-list-on-ukclimbing.html)
2 February 2012, 12:23 pm
Keen local activist, George North, has kindly put together a "LakesBloc 50 Best Tick List" over on UKClimbing.com. Now you can combine ticking some of the best lines the LakesBloc coverage zone has to offer with logging them directly into your UKC logbook. Nice one George!
The list is avaiable to view here. (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=311)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-8882777073256445071?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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New Guide, New Classic (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/02/new-guide-new-classic.html)
26 February 2012, 11:42 am
Further to the recent report of the superb 'new' granite Tear Drop Boulder, in Eskdale, there have been further developments on the boulder. These have resulted in some new problems (including an amazing new 7m arete), a new topo-guide and 'crag page' for the block.
Find out more about this great new addition (offering a 15 problem circuit) to the Lakes District venue list via the following links:
Diamond Reign - News Report (http://lakesbloc.com/news/335-diamond-reign.html)
Tear Drop Boulder - Crag Page (http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-west/333-tear-drop-boulder.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-1077699956062380291?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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That looks amazing!
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:agree: Looks like a bloody good block.
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It is excellent. It's an often-peddled sentiment, but its great to think even now these kinds of projects/lines can still be found.
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Seathwaite Guide Updated (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/03/seathwaite-guide-updated.html)
3 March 2012, 12:00 pm
I have updated the popular Seathwaite Circuit guide to include some of the more recent additions, most notably the Fox Force Five (7c) and Screwball Scramble (7a+) blocks. I have also tweaked the accuracy of the map to help with locating boulders/problems.
The updated guide is available to download via the Crag Page here:
http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-west/227-seathwaite-circuit-duddon.html
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-5478421825637885564?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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RIP Hold X (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/03/rip-hold-x.html)
6 March 2012, 12:59 pm
The infamous X-hold on the Bowderstone's Ladder Face has finally gone to a better place, after the years of strain finally caught up with it and it exploded whilst in foothold mode recently. This grip is best known as the 'off limits' handhold on the original eliminate sequence to Power Pinch, however it is also used on the popular Impropa RH and many of the links that cross this section of wall.
Local ‘Styan’ regular, Dan Turner, has been to the block since the demise of the hold and reports the following:
I repeated Impropa RH (via Power Pinch,) probably goes at hard V9/7c now. I also did all the moves to get you into the link ups (Lateral into Impropa, Lateral into Grand and TheLlink). Doubt it will change the grade but it will probably make them all fairly hard for the grade.
So in real terms, it sounds like Impropa RH is now defunct but other than that no major disruptions to other problems/links.
X-Hold Scar (Photo courtesy of Pete Wilkinson):
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-6650495228058906324?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Badger Rock Access (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/03/badger-rock-access.html)
25 March 2012, 10:00 am
There has been an incident at Badger Rock (Kentmere) whereby a group of individuals were witnessed endeavouring to climb over the dry stone wall which surrounds the field in which the block sits.
Apparently one of the individuals was climbing over the wall when it completely gave way and massively damaged the boundary between the Garburn Pass and the farmer’s field. One can only surmise they were coming from Little Font and trying to avoid the massive (irony intended) 100m walk to the gate which accesses the field. Access to the boulder has always been a bit delicate and this could cause a problem with the landowner.
I have emailed the BMC access rep for Kentmere asking if he could pre-empt the situation and try to diffuse any possible problems. In the meantime I think it would be wise to stay clear of the boulder, at least until the BMC have had a chance to contact the landowner. (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-7714978897488791769?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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I'd quite happily help put it back up and try and ease climber-farmer relations! It'd be good training for my new venture and help correct the wrong doings of an imbocile.
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Give Birkett a shout maybe? he'll have it sorted in about 20 minutes
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Carrock - Another 8A, Cleaned Lines & Broken Holds (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/03/carrock-another-8a-cleaned-lines-broken.html)
26 March 2012, 12:53 pm
Just a link to the latest news report, which describes some landing improvements (resulting in a new 8A), grade readjustments due to broken holds and cleaned up lines.
http://www.lakesbloc.com/news/340-metronome.html
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-5393464997048004646?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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NO Dogs, Walls, Restoration & Dry (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/04/no-dogs-walls-restoration-dry.html)
2 April 2012, 12:25 pm
NO DOGS: First up, remember the access to Woodwell O'ert Road is delicate, so please stick to the access rules:
1. Bouldering is only permitted on the 3 designated areas (signed). 2. Dogs are NOT allowed. 3. Climbers must not enter the field directly below the rock.
I am reenforcing this with everyone as I encountered some people with a loose dog there only last week.
DRYSTONE WALLS: With regards to the recent damage to the drystone wall surrounding Badger Rock; please could everyone make sure they use gates and stiles wherever possible, even if this does mean a slightly longer approach time. The repairs to the wall around Badger Rock are likely to cost in excess of £400, which will have to be paid for by the BMC. This is money that could have gone towards more worthwhile projects!
RESTORATION: I have improved a few landings at Carrock Fell and in particular the area around Beebop & Rocksteady (7C/V9), the superb high prow just up from Kits Boulder. I have removed three large branches from the adjacent sycamore, which should help keep the face clean and means the top out is no longer a bush whack. It has also opened a sit start (not done) to the high mossy prow to the right of B&R. I've also patioed out the landing to make it almost decent, bar the large block to the rear which still needs covering with a pad.
DRY: For all those keen on the South Lakes limestone pretty much everything is dry. The following crags are confirmed seep free: Woodwell, Trowbarrow, Fairy Steps and Farleton.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-4978488825973965513?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Broken Holds: Tourniquet & Kaizen (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/04/broken-holds-tourniquet-kaizen.html)
18 April 2012, 11:36 am
There have been a couple more hold breakages on well travelled crags in the South Lakes:
At Woodwell, a large hold has come off the base of Whats This For...! which whilst not really effecting the aformention problem may have some significanceon Kaizen and Kaizen Lite. At Kentmere, a sizeable chunk has come off the superb Tourniquet, dropping the grade from 8a/+ to around 7c+.
Both holds are intact and in safe hands. Hopefully they will be reattached at some point over the next month or so.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-1713260354254100779?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Wet Wet Wet (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/07/wet-wet-wet.html)
9 July 2012, 2:43 pm
Sadly everything on the South Lakes limestone is pretty awful at present, with all roof orientated venues being almost unclimbable and even ever reliable spots like Trowbarrow are fairly grim thanks to the proliferation of foliage combined with the humidity.
To paraphrase Homer Simpson: Water water everywhere so lets all have a drink... oh, and make it a strong one!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-4094620293092937184?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Kentmere Guide Update (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/07/kentmere-guide-update.html)
9 July 2012, 2:49 pm
There were some issues with Mac users not being able to open the Kentmere guide without encountering some pretty major errors. I have mucked about with it and and updated the layout somewhat and it now seems ok on both Mac and PC. Unfortunately, thanks to some slight glitch in the original file I can't seem to convert it into a standard PDF without incurring some major degradation in the image and diagram quality. Therefore I have had to convert it into a Hi-Res PDF, thus it is now 25mb, rather than the original 8.5mb. On the upside it does look quite crisp once you have eventually downloaded it.
http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/south-east/202-kentmere-boulders.html(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-6139999281186792872?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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St. Bees North: Central Descent Deterioration (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/08/st-bees-north-central-descent.html)
3 August 2012, 3:25 pm
Over the last couple of months there have been a number of minor and one sizeable rockfall/landslips on the cliffs on and around the central descent (above Apiary Wall) at St. Bees Head, North.
Whilst the descent is still usable the base has become quite traitorous and loose, so please be careful when using this access point. The ropes are, at the time of writing, still in place, however at least one anchor bolt has been squashed/damaged and may no longer be safe.
If you are at all unsure please use the easier northern descent.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-8310882383680097138?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Carrock Fell Fell Gallery Updated (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/08/carrock-fell-fell-gallery-updated.html)
25 August 2012, 10:14 am
Added quite a few new images to the Carrock Fell gallery, hope they help you get psyched for autumn/winter...
http://www.lakesbloc.com/galleries/315-carrock-fell-gallery.html(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-5695603654973049043?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Traci Lords Landing Improved (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/09/traci-lords-landing-improved.html)
10 September 2012, 7:53 pm
Over the weekend, myself and George North did a proper job of platforming out the landing below the excellent Traci Lords (8A) face at the Lad Stones.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AYrrgD2Le7A/UE5DuRtVVNI/AAAAAAAAA1k/x0_inyxhM88/s400/IMG_5044A.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AYrrgD2Le7A/UE5DuRtVVNI/AAAAAAAAA1k/x0_inyxhM88/s1600/IMG_5044A.JPG)
It was previously a bit of stretch to pull on even with a very thick/folded pad, and the hole to the right made the landing a bit iffy. With the new groundwork complete it's now really easy to pull on and work the problem, plus the landing is much safer - i.e. it's good. You now only really need a single large pad to climb the problem if you have a spotter or two pads if you're on your own. I also added a couple of new problems hereabouts, which I'll write up on the site soon.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-6958203096221305118?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Improved Videos Section (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/09/improved-videos-section.html)
16 September 2012, 9:23 am
I have completely overhauled the videos section of the site, so it is a proper database of clips. Now if you click on the 'Videos (http://www.lakesbloc.com/videos.html)' link in the LH menu column, you will be greeted by a list of crags/venues, after selecting your desired venue you will see a list of the current additions by problem name and grade. Each of these has its own page and is embedded to a large scale where possible (i.e. when the clip quality allows) and the ability for the user to comment on any particular video.
Please feel free to submit additions via email, Facebook or commenting below this post.
New videos section: http://www.lakesbloc.com/videos.html(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-5667927018745008419?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Lad Stones Guide Released (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/10/lad-stones-guide-released.html)
21 October 2012, 7:33 pm
Finally, one of the last best bouldering areas to get documented properly is complete.
The Lad Stones offer a brilliant hard circuit, situated on the southern flanks of Wetherlam, east of Levers Water and the Coppermines Valley. Two vast 2000 ton blocks and a few smaller satellites provide a circuit of some 50 odd problems, nothing too unusual about that. However, where the Lad Stones stand apart from other areas with a similar quota of climbs is their grade spread ratio – 60% of the problems are in the 7’s and 8’s spectrum!
I have thoroughly enjoyed putting this guide together and climbing most of the problems in the process (all but 3 at the time of writing). Big thanks to the numerous individuals who have also been up there enjoying the venue and giving valuable feedback.
I've also updated the Lad Stones Gallery (http://www.lakesbloc.com/galleries/242-lad-stones-gallery.html), which is also well worth checking out to get a better idea of the problems on offer.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OpJ11w-AIjE/UIRNUXlJ9sI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/k-axi7SXLQI/s320/ls-cover.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OpJ11w-AIjE/UIRNUXlJ9sI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/k-axi7SXLQI/s1600/ls-cover.jpg)
Anyway without further ado here she blows, I hope you enjoy the area as much as I do:
http://www.lakesbloc.com/guides/ladstones-guide.pdf(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-4035979379562592503?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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St. Bees North: Central Descent Further Damage (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2012/11/st-bees-north-central-descent-further.html)
2 November 2012, 3:28 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P8OSi7-4QE0/UJPmMLKEI2I/AAAAAAAAA5I/p0haT5M6Wto/s200/st.bees-ap.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P8OSi7-4QE0/UJPmMLKEI2I/AAAAAAAAA5I/p0haT5M6Wto/s1600/st.bees-ap.jpg)I have heard reports that the main and most frequently used central descent at St. Bees Head North has suffered yet another fairly sizeable rockfall/mudslide.
Although the descent is still usable the insitu assurance ropes and anchor points should be treated with extreme caution. If you are at all usure and/or its extremely windy I would strongly recommended using the furthest northern descent.
Photo: Seen better days - Tom Burns ascending the then relatively pristine central descent some 8 years ago.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7470687998320535202-3107812911837721835?l=lakesbloc.blogspot.com)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Mint Wall Breakage (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2013/02/mint-wall-breakage.html)
4 February 2013, 9:47 pm
Unfortunately the useful obvious edge in the centre of Carrock Fell's Mint Wall has recently snapped off, rendering Orison and Mint Royale much harder/defunct.
Jon Freeman has rescued the hold so if possible it will be glue back in place at some point.
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Not tried this problem, but love Carrock and have been loads of times.
I understand holds getting glued back on at popular, maybe less picturesque venues, but kinda doesn't seem right at Carrock? its beautiful and wild, gluing holds seems out of place??
Just my opinion. not sure what anyone else thinks?
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Without that hold the problems arent really do able. There aint many harder (7c above) problems a carrock so it is good to have some harder lines also this block is permo-dry which is rare. There are other glued holds at Carrock as well!
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Carrock: Repairs and Restoration (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2013/02/carrock-repairs-and-restoration.html)
28 February 2013, 8:12 am
Lots of repairs and groundwork have been going on at Carrock Fell of late. Following on from Adam Hocking sorting out the landing of what became Dan Varian's new problem, Get a Grip (http://lakesbloc.com/news/latest-news/478-get-a-grip-at-carrock.html), Dan returned the favour by shifting the the large block below Punks Life. This both makes the sit start project a better proposition, as well as opening up an off-the-deck stand up start - which also remains a project. The original version stepping off the block is unaffected.
Up on the Mint Wall I've glued the central hold back, re-establishing the quality 7C+, Mint Royale and the central 7A Orison . Thanks to Jon Freeman for collecting the broken hold and handing it on to me. Hopefully it will stay put - it does take a fair amount of weight.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-06bNSpHiWBg/US8PpyEFk2I/AAAAAAAAA_Q/R7G1By2aOGc/s1600/mintwall-hold.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-06bNSpHiWBg/US8PpyEFk2I/AAAAAAAAA_Q/R7G1By2aOGc/s1600/mintwall-hold.JPG)
Over on the Leopold Wall myself and Dan Varian (to be fair Dan did most of the work) completely shifted the big block to the immediate left of Leopold Von Buch making the landing far flatter and meaning you need less pads to try the problem.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gOJ-7b7Co0c/US8QwgthW4I/AAAAAAAAA_c/-yJi-A_wUeo/s1600/leo-block1.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gOJ-7b7Co0c/US8QwgthW4I/AAAAAAAAA_c/-yJi-A_wUeo/s1600/leo-block1.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Li22B0a5-vU/US8Qy79qvzI/AAAAAAAAA_k/pE5UZGB61QM/s1600/leo-block2.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Li22B0a5-vU/US8Qy79qvzI/AAAAAAAAA_k/pE5UZGB61QM/s1600/leo-block2.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zsKN6MryvVY/US8Q1KVD0hI/AAAAAAAAA_s/ol3wvsh5ssg/s1600/leo-block3.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zsKN6MryvVY/US8Q1KVD0hI/AAAAAAAAA_s/ol3wvsh5ssg/s1600/leo-block3.JPG)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Trowbarrow Gardening (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2013/04/trowbarrow-gardening.html)
23 April 2013, 8:19 am
The saplings, small trees and foliage around the two main Trowbarrow boulders have been fully cleared out, making both blocks much more easily accessible as well as ventilated.
On the small block in front of Red Wall the south face has been re-opened up, meaning that the small but worthwhile 7A+ of Mojo is now climbable again (although it may well need a brush).
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8aPaffGRvr8/UXZD6U2QeJI/AAAAAAAABBo/EsICEYaGnzg/s1600/boulkder1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8aPaffGRvr8/UXZD6U2QeJI/AAAAAAAABBo/EsICEYaGnzg/s1600/boulkder1.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YK2IVkJxiQM/UXZD6jbwbwI/AAAAAAAABBs/dFGg5uCEQP0/s1600/boulkder2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YK2IVkJxiQM/UXZD6jbwbwI/AAAAAAAABBs/dFGg5uCEQP0/s1600/boulkder2.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-InF4xzdzLrA/UXZD6mL-eiI/AAAAAAAABBw/Wt2f9dcW1kE/s1600/boulkder3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-InF4xzdzLrA/UXZD6mL-eiI/AAAAAAAABBw/Wt2f9dcW1kE/s1600/boulkder3.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sM_nAqC63Q0/UXZD7kiQe5I/AAAAAAAABCA/3lK0_6VrR0U/s1600/red-bouklder.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sM_nAqC63Q0/UXZD7kiQe5I/AAAAAAAABCA/3lK0_6VrR0U/s1600/red-bouklder.jpg)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Lancaster Bomber repaired (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2013/06/lancaster-bomber-repaired.html)
9 June 2013, 8:23 am
As you may know, if you've visited the Lad Stones in recent months, one of the crucial holds on the classic prow of Lancaster Bomber has been creaking.
Late last year I endeavored to bolster the hold by applying some glue around its edge, however it has become obvious that this was not going to be a long term solution as the hold continued to move. So yesterday I applied a more lasting solution, by levering the hold off cleaning it up and fully gluing it back. Hopefully this will solve the issue.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FyOt6xjB06Y/UbQ36fgc0gI/AAAAAAAABF8/kx0rndXO7Lk/s320/LB-hold.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FyOt6xjB06Y/UbQ36fgc0gI/AAAAAAAABF8/kx0rndXO7Lk/s1600/LB-hold.jpg)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Bull Stones Bouldering (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2013/06/bull-stones-bouldering.html)
19 June 2013, 2:09 pm
Many years ago I went to checkout the small gritstone escarpment of Great Bull Stones (GBS), in the heart of the the Forrest of Bowland. On that occasion I approached via Wolfhole Crag, a lengthy and arduous trek across some pretty wild moorland. The day was a bleak misty affair, and having reached the crag I was quickly underwhelmed by the potential climbing on offer. Having scoped the western portion of the crag (and mainstay of the crag according to the OS map) I decided I'd seen enough and headed home, quickly forgetting about the not so Great Bull Stones.
This past weekend, 12 years on, I returned to the crag for another recce, having been tipped off by Mike Binks (who visited the crag the week before) that the boulders of Little Bull Stones (LBS) - essentially the eastern continuation of GBS and a sector of the crag I had not previously visited - offered a better concentration of sizeable blocks and lines, which may be of more interest than the more scattered collection of generally small boulders provided by the GBS escarpment.
Having parked at the base of the Hornby Road (a historic Roman road come bridleway linking Slaidburn to Hornby) I followed this substantial track to the near summit of Croasdale Fell, before heading up the short slope to the western most rocks of Great Bull Stones - as per the described method in the basic topo Mike had acquired and kindly passed on. From here I stuck to the crag line, taking in GBS and the surrounding blocks, to eventually reach Little Bull Stones. I didn't climb anything at GBS but having climbed most of the topos described lines at LBS, I climbed (added?) about 10 more problems which were not covered. For the benefit of anyone who's interested, the best of these were are as follows:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rj06vjFWQyI/UcG6TEpoFoI/AAAAAAAABGk/wYqKuA807JM/s1600/LBS1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rj06vjFWQyI/UcG6TEpoFoI/AAAAAAAABGk/wYqKuA807JM/s1600/LBS1.jpg)
1: Stinger 7A+/7B (SDS) From two low crimps work up the wall to the top of the block. Bunched start.
2: Dream On Sit [?] - 6A (SDS) The excellent curving arete climbed on the right.
3: Toro Loco - 6A+ (SDS) Use low edges to gain the rib and follow it to its finish, then top out via a big juggy pocket.
4: The Scoop - 6A (SDS) As per p3 but once the rib is gained mantle into the scoop and up.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I6-s5Ldfugw/UcG6YTQ-PUI/AAAAAAAABGs/jmz2ltJyqDg/s1600/LBS2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I6-s5Ldfugw/UcG6YTQ-PUI/AAAAAAAABGs/jmz2ltJyqDg/s1600/LBS2.jpg)
5: Cascadia - 7A/+ (SDS) Start under the small roof and climb a direct line through the left of side of the 'sloper cascade'.
6: Bully Beef - 7B (SDS) Climb the LH arete of the slab from sitting at the base of the arete on the left.
Cascadia & Bully Beef videos:
Overall, the area is certainly pretty esoteric, however its beautifully remote location combined with the small but compact bouldering circuit at LBS makes it worth a visit for those who like moorland areas, well off the beaten track.
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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NEW Sampson's Stones Guide (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2013/07/new-sampsons-stones-guide.html)
4 July 2013, 8:18 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E9KTWZyk8oQ/UdUv8qxyHJI/AAAAAAAABH0/HZpW_emK_I0/s650/sampsons-stones-guide.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E9KTWZyk8oQ/UdUv8qxyHJI/AAAAAAAABH0/HZpW_emK_I0/s650/sampsons-stones-guide.jpg)The NEW Sampson's Stones bouldering guide is now complete and available to download. It includes between 15-20 new problems when compared with the last version and hopefully a generally cleaner easier to follow layout.
Right: NEW Sampson's Stone guide cover.
With plenty to go at for abilities, I hope this guide inspires a few more people to make the effort and visit this magnificent venue.
Download the guide for FREE here:
LakesBloc Sampson's Stone PDF Bouldering Guide (5.05mb) (http://www.lakesbloc.com/guides/sampsons-stones-guide.pdf)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Dow Crag Bouldering (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2013/09/dow-crag-bouldering.html)
30 September 2013, 12:29 pm
I have just added various information pages to the website focussing on the recently developed bouldering circuit below Dow Crag, in the southwest Lakes. The area now hosts a fair circuit of easier lines and 10+ problems from 7A to 8A...
News Report: lakesbloc.com/news/supergene-a-full-dow-crag-roundup (http://lakesbloc.com/news/553-supergene-a-full-dow-crag-roundup.html)
Crag Page: lakesbloc.com/crags/south-west/dow-crag-boulders (http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-west/552-dow-crag-boulders.html)
Crag Gallery: lakesbloc.com/galleries/dow-crag-boulders-gallery (http://lakesbloc.com/galleries/551-dow-crag-boulders-gallery.html)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Carrock Fell Guide Updated (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2013/11/carrock-fell-guide-updated.html)
25 November 2013, 7:54 pm
Carrock Fell Guide 2012 Version 1.1: I have updated the Carrock Fell guide. There's a number of grade/description alterations (the most notable being 'Hockstack & Two Broken Toothbrushes' going up to 7B) along with the addition of the Mint Wall sector and of course the crags hardest line, 'Home' (8B). There were a few other recent additions that I couldn't include without a major overhaul, these will get included in the next full re-write.
http://www.lakesbloc.com/guides/carrockfell-guide.pdf
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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NEW Brant Fell Guide (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2014/03/new-brant-fell-guide.html)
13 March 2014, 12:08 pm
New Brant Fell Bouldering guide now available to download. Head to the site and click the PDF topo link at the base of the crag page.
http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/south-east/201-brant-fell.html
This may be a small area but it is extremely popular with visitors and locals alike.
Thanks go to George North for the text and images, as well as John Kettle and Annette Smith for problem feedback and general area beta.
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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St. Bees Storm Damage (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2014/03/st-bees-storm-damage.html)
13 March 2014, 12:16 pm
Chris Fisher has kindly passed on this information relating to the damage caused to the bouldering areas at St. Bees Head, after the recent winter storms.Firstly the block featuring Izaro on has completely collapsed (see pic below), unlike it's namesake the problem has disappeared without a trace!(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2eevpR98KRs/UyGgcoSnqrI/AAAAAAAABL0/qNbWfncbOOk/s1600/izaro.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2eevpR98KRs/UyGgcoSnqrI/AAAAAAAABL0/qNbWfncbOOk/s1600/izaro.jpg)There's been some block shifting round where The Kraken is situated: the right-hand version of this can't really be done any more as there's a block in the way, the left-hand version could possibly still be done. At Fleswick, the piece of rock housing Trash Vortex has separated totally from the crag and is tilted quite alarmingly, whilst this makes the problem harder it is quite likely to kill anyone who happens to be on it if it detached completely (see pic below).
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vHammtIOTEw/UyGgt_qGmHI/AAAAAAAABL8/8ipbrwccSdM/s1600/trash.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vHammtIOTEw/UyGgt_qGmHI/AAAAAAAABL8/8ipbrwccSdM/s1600/trash.jpg)Round Fisherman's steps there's been lot's of movement behind Fruits de Mer, this has created a couple of nice 6c+/7a problems for folk to explore.Lastly the rock step between Apiary Wall and Scabby Back has disappeared, fortunately though it's still possible to get between the two.
Whilst this damage and 'reorganizing' of blocks is a bit disappointing, it could have been a whole lot worse. If anyone notices or has noticed any other changes please feel free to post a comment below...
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Download All Guides: One File (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2014/03/download-all-guides-one-file.html)
15 March 2014, 10:44 am
You can now download all 50+ LakesBloc bouldering guides as a single (105mb) Zip File via the page linked below. Then simply add to your smart phone or tablet and away you go...
http://www.lakesbloc.com/download-all-guides.html
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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New Dow Crag Bouldeirng Guide (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2014/04/new-dow-crag-bouldeirng-guide.html)
6 April 2014, 10:22 am
There's a new 10 page guide to the Dow Crag area now available to download via the crag page on LakesBloc:
http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/south-west/552-dow-crag-boulders.html (http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/south-west/552-dow-crag-boulders.html)
The new guide cover 70+ problems from 2-8A and incorporates Nettle Crag, the Cove Stones and the Dow Crag boulders.
Have fun.
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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top effort Greg thanks :great:
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Lost Buoys Lost (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2014/04/lost-buoys-lost.html)
21 April 2014, 10:45 am
Liam Halsay reports the demise of another quality St. Bees problem, due to winter-storm damage. It appears that 'Lost Buoys' at the Old Buoys Circuit of the Northern Head has been hit by some big blocks, resulting in it being moved and having a number of holds badly damaged. Liam said it may still be possible but the landing is less good and it would probably be easier. :o(
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VpaR3txiix4/U1T2gSx-LpI/AAAAAAAABNs/y6gSiv4XQGU/s1600/image.jpeg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VpaR3txiix4/U1T2gSx-LpI/AAAAAAAABNs/y6gSiv4XQGU/s1600/image.jpeg)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Got the Poison, Got the Remedy (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2014/04/got-poison-got-remedy.html)
27 April 2014, 7:59 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VKxDX3bJODw/U11gzrbkxJI/AAAAAAAABN8/1Bv0Xt3rjOU/s1600/poison.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VKxDX3bJODw/U11gzrbkxJI/AAAAAAAABN8/1Bv0Xt3rjOU/s1600/poison.jpg)I have repaired and and re-sent Poison at Warton Pinnacle Crag. The crucial good hold on the lip, just before the final lay-back crack section, had deteriorated to a point where it was no longer usable and thus the problem had become defunct. Obviously this was a shame as this is one of the better high 7's on South Lakes Limestone.
Right: Me resending Poison (7C+) via the repaired hold.
As there was nothing really left to glue back (the mainstay of the hold had crumbled away), I scraped out the remaining loose bits and completely re-stabilised the hold with epoxy resin, meaning it shouldn't deteriorate again. The hold is not as juggy as it once was, however it is perfectly serviceable and pleasant enough to use. Plus it is now totally solid. The reduced positivity of the hold makes the line a fair bit tougher and it is probably now in the 7C+ ballpark.
Repaired hold...
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EFsat4Iv8eg/U11hg8ftYMI/AAAAAAAABOE/a88atId2w14/s1600/poison-hold.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EFsat4Iv8eg/U11hg8ftYMI/AAAAAAAABOE/a88atId2w14/s1600/poison-hold.jpg)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Chipping at Rolling Rock (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2014/07/chipping-at-rolling-rock.html)
2 July 2014, 11:45 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8ehNPsxzQbc/U7PwXoNxNhI/AAAAAAAABO0/CdrZvYiF-m8/s1600/unnamed.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8ehNPsxzQbc/U7PwXoNxNhI/AAAAAAAABO0/CdrZvYiF-m8/s1600/unnamed.jpg)Some misguided individual has rather selfishly chipped, and in doing so improved, the reasonable low edge/side pull at the base of the Jungle Hobo arete on the Rolling Rock, Patterdale. Whilst it is not impossible that this is natural breakage it seems unlikely looking at the multiple scarring and improved hold.
It is believed that the damage to the hold has reduced the grade of both the stand and sit (Grand Unification) by a whole grade or so.
It is a sad day when people start chipping classic lines like this, lets hope it was a visitor to the area and someone who is unlikely to return any time soon!
[Thanks to Chris Arthur for the information and image.]
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Fleswick Bay Path Closure (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2014/07/fleswick-bay-path-closure.html)
2 July 2014, 11:50 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cM468uOE7qw/U7Px-q-xXqI/AAAAAAAABPA/rg8BZ2MOb9U/s1600/550px-St_Bees_Head_cliffs.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cM468uOE7qw/U7Px-q-xXqI/AAAAAAAABPA/rg8BZ2MOb9U/s1600/550px-St_Bees_Head_cliffs.jpg)The path which most people use to gain access to Fleswick Bay, at St. Bees Head, has been closed by the farmer and the signs marking its way removed. I'm not entirely sure of the reasoning behind this or if it is just a seasonal thing but for the time being (whilst the signs are not there) it is probably best to access the bay via the (longer) cliff top approach. This involves carrying on as though you were going to the normal Northern Head sectors, but once at the top of the cliffs follow the cliff top path south to where it is possible to gain access to the shoreline and the bay itself.
To be fair, whatever the reasoning, the path is not designated a public right of way on the OS map, so the farmer is probably well within his rights to do this.
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Chipping at Rolling Rock (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2014/07/chipping-at-rolling-rock.html)
2 July 2014, 11:45 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8ehNPsxzQbc/U7PwXoNxNhI/AAAAAAAABO0/CdrZvYiF-m8/s1600/unnamed.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8ehNPsxzQbc/U7PwXoNxNhI/AAAAAAAABO0/CdrZvYiF-m8/s1600/unnamed.jpg)Some misguided individual has rather selfishly chipped, and in doing so improved, the reasonable low edge/side pull at the base of the Jungle Hobo arete on the Rolling Rock, Patterdale. Whilst it is not impossible that this is natural breakage it seems unlikely looking at the multiple scarring and improved hold.
It is believed that the damage to the hold has reduced the grade of both the stand and sit (Grand Unification) by a whole grade or so.
It is a sad day when people start chipping classic lines like this, lets hope it was a visitor to the area and someone who is unlikely to return any time soon!
[Thanks to Chris Arthur for the information and image.]
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
Right shame that, they were both ace problems.
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Hold Breakage at St. Bees North (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2014/12/hold-breakage-at-st-bees-north.html)
8 December 2014, 12:57 pm
Jack Metcalfe reports some hold breakage on the recently developed Modulator Block, located close to the base of St. Bees North's Northern Descent. Jack re-climbed the relevant lines and added a couple of other variants. He explains:
While repeating 'Modulator' last week a hold broke off unfortunately - this is the 'spikey edge' that you make a difficult dead point move to with your left hand while your right hand is still on the jug at the base of the bloc. Fortunately the problem is still possible but it now involves the use of a 2 finger pocket on the right-hand face in order to bring your left hand up to the good edges on the blunt arete. With the use of a right heel toe in the white rock it's possible to reach the pocket quite steadily.
After repeating the other problems on the bloc I added 2 variation finishes to both Salvage and Modulator. For Salvage, after making the crux move out to the far right-hand pocket, instead of crossing over with you left-hand as Tom does into the Modulator holds, I went straight up to the top of the bloc and topped out directly. This is a touch easier than Tom's full problem. For Modulator, after gaining the good holds on the blunt arete, instead of popping out to the rib on the right, I went straight up and left to the top of the bloc and topped out slightly left after a bit of shuffling to find some holds for use rocking over. This goes at about the same grade.
After a number of repeats from the guys on this side of t'Lakes the grades have settled a bit and are now roughly as follows:
Modulator (after hold breakage and new beta) - 7A
Modulator (LH finish) - 7A
Buoyz in the Hood - 7B
Salvage - 7B+
Salvage (direct finish) - 7B
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Warton Guide Updated (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2015/03/warton-guide-updated.html)
1 March 2015, 1:06 pm
As the title suggests, the Warton guide has had a tidy up and few updates added.
Warton Crags Bouldering Guide PDF (4.72mb) (http://www.lakesbloc.com/guides/warton-crags-guide.pdf)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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Lakes Boulder Roundup 2014 (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2015/03/lakes-boulder-roundup-2014.html)
2 March 2015, 1:02 pm
I've written a bouldering roundup incorporating the highlights of 2014 and a few bits from 2013. For those interested, this is available to read via UKClimbing:
Article: Lakes Bouldering Round-up 2013/14 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69537)
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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New Beta Videos (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/2015/10/new-beta-videos.html)
12 October 2015, 7:08 pm
I've uploaded/categorised a bunch of new beta videos to the site. You may have seen some as they have been on the LakesBloc Vimeo/Youtube accounts, but this should make for finding them easier. They are as follows:
Coniston Boulder Valle
Reunion Jack 7B+ (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/106-coniston-boulder-valley-videos/661-reunion-jack-7bv9.html)
Jazz Mag 7B (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/106-coniston-boulder-valley-videos/660-jazz-mag-7bv8.html)
Manic Miner 7B+ (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/106-coniston-boulder-valley-videos/658-manic-miner-7bv9.html)
Dow Crag
Ex Machina 7C+ (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/97-dow-crag-boulders-videos/663-ex-machina-7cv10.html)
Dunnerdale
Wilding 7B (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/81-dunnerdale-videos/664-wilding-7bv8.html)
Van Wilder 7C (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/81-dunnerdale-videos/679-van-wilder-7cv9.html)
Giant Jenga 7B+ (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/81-dunnerdale-videos/678-giant-jenga-7bv8.html)
Bumblee in the Junglee 7C (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/81-dunnerdale-videos/677-bumblee-in-the-junglee-7cv9.html)
Gouther Crag
Atom Smasher 7C (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/86-gouther-crag-videos/669-atom-smasher.html)
Road to Valhalla 7B (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/86-gouther-crag-videos/666-road-to-valhalla-7bv8.html)
Boogie Monster 7B+ (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/86-gouther-crag-videos/665-boogie-monster-7bv8.html)
Long Crag
Long Division 7C (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/68-long-crag-videos/676-long-division-7cv9.html)
White Wryno 7A (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/68-long-crag-videos/675-white-wryno-7av6.html)
Sour Milk Boulders
Lambrini Girl 7B+ (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/85-gillercombe-a-sour-milk-ghyll-videos.html)
Sampson's Stones
The Ergosphere 7C/V9 (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/79-sampsons-stones-videos/667-the-ergosphere.html)
St. Bees - North
Operation Winkle 7B (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/70-st-bees-north-videos/674-operation-winkle-7bv8.html)
Rascal's Wall 7B (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/70-st-bees-north-videos/673-rascals-wall-7bv8.html)
Jabberjaw 7B (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/70-st-bees-north-videos/672-jabberjaw-7bv8.html)
Out of the Blue 7C+ (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/70-st-bees-north-videos/671-out-of-the-blue-7cv10.html)
Solitary Refinement 7B+ (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/70-st-bees-north-videos/670-solitary-refinement-7bv8.html)
Trowbarrow
Pie Man 7C/V9 (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/78-trowbarrow-quarry-videos/668-pie-man-7cv9.html)
Compilations
Around the Lakes in 14 Days (http://lakesbloc.com/videos/87-quality-compilation-videos/680-around-the-lakes-in-14-days-by-lawsonbetaproductions.html) - by Lawson Beta Productions
Source: LakesBloc (http://lakesbloc.blogspot.com/)
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This seems the best place to post this up - but it looks like http://www.lakesbloc.com is back [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]