UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: tomtom on February 01, 2015, 01:28:28 pm
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M: Beatmakerage
T: Work
W: Work
Th: Mild disinterested Beastmaker things...
Fr: Visit to Osteo - told my back flexibility is much improved
Sa: Moderate BM
Su: Decided to try climbing outdoors... went to Hobby Moor - cold, many streaks, but still things do-able. Did about 10 mins worth then my back/hip felt decidedly dodgy/tweaky so beat a retreat home. Despondent beastmaker flagellation.
I need to ease my back into climbing within the warmer, more controlled environment of a wall... Had it been good spring conditions it might be a good option outside, but I need to get used to the movement a bit more first...
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Very well tomtom :2thumbsup:
Goals
January: Max effort strength/power with free weights. Power/Olympic Lifting.
February-March: Building base fitness long distance running. Slow long distance running & Tempo Runs. Heal my shoulder injury.
April-September: Street Run 11K Kortrijk. Climbing/bouldering/training for God Shave the queen. Antwerp marathon.
October-November: Project "God Shave the Queen" (8a)
All week:
- Flexibility
- Tail Chi
MON:
Easy circuitx4
-10 pushups
- 4 chinups
- 5 barbell over head squats (22kg)
After a week of rest, the shoulder injury is still painful. Waiting for a cortisone injection in february :(
TUE:
Rest
WED:
AnPow 80% 1RM
- Squat (5x5)
- Bench Press (5x5)
- Bent Over Row (5x5)
- Shrugs (3x8)
- Pull Over (3x8)
- Pullup (3x5)
- Pushup (3x15)
- Ab Wheel Rollout (3x10)
THU:
Rest
FRI:
Same as WED
SAT:
Rest. Some balancing: Frog Sit/HeadStand/HandStand.
SUN:
Same as WED
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STG - Stay uninjured, get strong ready for the weather to change...
M - Floot stuff - core 40mins
T - Dodgy knee and sciatica, skipped my indoor session and did 45 mins BM (3 sets)
W - Pull ups 3x5 (2sec up, 2 sec down) x3, push up 3x20, core stuff 40mins
Th- planks, side planks, russian twist, dumbbell rows, slow pull ups (10secs up/ 10 down) 45 mins
Fr - Indoor knee still dodgy, so a no falls session, worked some starts on some harder stuff 6C ish, had a surprisingly good session, finished with some weights and then campussed 1-3-5-7 for the first time ever, sure the rails aren't standard. 3h
S - Long walk, plus 30 mins back stretching
Su - Knee O.K indoors, tired quickly, so had a shortish session, worked my 6C up to a new high point, probably the crux. Shoulder stuff. 2h.
Sharkaton done (except one slighly dodgy day), nice to mix up my sessions a bit. I tend to rest a day or 2 between indoor sessions, but I probably should do some core on those days.
Also having breakfast everyday, normal lunch, small dinner (no carbs) has left me feeling more full of energy in the late afternoon when I climb, although my weight seems to have stablised at 76.3kg which is heavy for me....muscle?
Not sure wether to cut down to 2 indoor session and 2 BM per week instead of 3 indoor/ 1 BM.
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STG Climb 4 times per Week
MTG Clean & Climb New project
Mon Rest
Tues BM Finger Strength. 7 on 120 off. 6 Reps, 3 Sets. Weighted .
Wed Rest and push ups
Thurs Indoor Bouldering. Dynamic movement and Power
Fri Rest
Sat BM Finger Strength. 7 on 120 off. 5 Reps, 3 Sets. Weighted .
Sun Climbed 6A+ and tried 7A+ and 7A. A bit unfocused working the harder problems. Need to get my shit together for max effort attempts.
Progressing. finished a 6 week fingerboard cycle. Feeling stronger and dropping weight. -0.4kg. 73.3kg
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January Goals
V8 Indoors or 1-4-7 on the Campus Board - not done.
3 days out 2/3 - not done
Lose 2kg - done. Lost 3kgs.
Mon
Flu
Tue
Flu
Wed
Fingerboard
6x6 second hangs. New PB. 1 handed on Beastmaker 1 pad edge. -3.75kg.
Some bouldering to warm up + down. Tried to limit it to not get more ill.
Thu
Fri
Arch
Boulders - up to V6ish.
Sat
Ab Ripper X
3x10 pressups
Stretching
AnCap - 8x12 moves on 30 degree system board. Ok session, need to make up harder problem for this.
Sun
Ok week - in raw strength i've gone from needing 7.5kg assistance to hang the 1 pad edge for 6 seconds, to half that. So that at least feels like progress over the last 6 months. Didn't boulder enough to hit my main goal of V8. But will try again in Feb.
February Goals
V8 Indoors or 1-4-7 on the Campus Board
Go to Spain uninjured + stronger than i've been before
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11.10-8
M. Early start. 12 hour journey back from Spain after 7 days climbing. It was only Sharkathon that got me on the fingerboard when I dot back.
T. Eve. Woodie
W. Lunch. Sleepy - forced myself into shed Pulled on crimps, did some undercutting then 4 goes on AnCap circuit - did Ok - felt fitter. PM AeroCap set of 20/10s
T. Eve Fingerboard
F. PM 30 mins at Foundry on auto belay
S. Eve. Woodie
S. Put some crusher crimps on Woodie and also campus rungs for foot-on campausing. Had an hour experimeting with the set up and moves
OK week. Obviously a bit of a comedown after Spain. Might head outside this week to eatswood or Tor or even Malham as not got a lot on
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OK week. Obviously a bit of a comedown after Spain. Might head outside this week to eatswood or Tor or even Malham as not got a lot on
I'm about weds > fri if you're getting out.. txt me.
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Another week of too much work and not enough climbing
M Went for a run instead of Pilates
T
W Kettlebells at home
T Shed my lovely shed. Had to kick steps to get there - is that what people mean by winter climbing ? Great post session ache
F Core and a bit of aero at gym
S Cratcliffe. I thought I'd done RZA roof years ago but I hadnt. Did the direct/RH version which is meant to be harder/7b ? not sure it is. Couldnt manage Percy's cornflake. Is it just a big pull to the left hand gaston ?
S Not much. Small walk inn Eccy Woods with M in law
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Awful week. Felt a bit broken at work for a few days. Stressed and anxious. Didn't do anything other than climbing on Saturday.
Saturday: Phoenix Wall (my style, so not really the point); Pinky Traverse (easy finish); Rachel's Box. Shredded a tip badly on the last problem so that's the wall out of the question until at least the end of the week.
Not a great result.
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Tape up and train anyway?
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Hi everyone!
Mon - nothing, rest
Tues- Week 3 Swiss ball core routine - going well / plus beastmaster 5a routine 1 round +4kg and one round + 2.5 kg
Wed - late night at work - school trip that I am organising- meet the parents!
Thurs - repeated Tues
Fri - rest
Sat - Arch - worked circuits - green - almost there some killer moves. Tried white and salmon - well hard.*
Sun - Arch building 1 - faffed around, mainly blue, yellow, worked red cave route which was pretty good for me.
*Big question why do route setters put the cruxes on the down climb on circuit routes? Answers on a postcard!
*good news - rumours new "North Arch" might be near work! :great:
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STG: (March) indoor 7a ROUTE
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
Beastmaker 5A routine
Muscle-Up
Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
M:
T: Kettlebell TGUs (4), hammer curls, core. Mobility with focus on pec minor / thoracic
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes 5b 6a 6b 6c 7a+ 6b+ 7a 7a (attempts) 5b warm down
A step forward for me today: Thalkirchen has a lead wall sector that goes up 17 metres and overhangs about 15. In the four years I've been going there I - shamefully, being easily intimidated by teh steep - never had the bottle to set foot on it. Today I did, and fell turning the lip of the final roof. Falling at the lip of a roof is a situation I find mentally difficult anyway, even when it isn't twenty metres up. yyfy.
Then interviewed several routes for the post of My Indoor 7a Project. One of the candidates was successful.
T: Stair climbing 3 x 40 stories storeys? floors
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. UKB-approved nu skool aerocap: as many moderate blocs as possible with as little rest as possible for an hour.
S: Snowboarding: mate's birthday weekend at a hut at Spitzingsee in the Bavarian Alps. Great snow, good friends. Heavenly chamois goulash for dinner.
S: M jnr's first complete off-piste descent Sunday morning from the front door of the hut.
An excellent weekend
Boarding in fresh snow is a fantastic feeling, and I have been contemplating getting a splitboard for a while now, but I heard on the radio on the way home that ten people died in avalanches in Switzerland this weekend. Five of them on an avalanche safety training course. Maybe I should stick to sport climbing.
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*Big question why do route setters put the cruxes on the down climb on circuit routes? Answers on a postcard!
Those arch circuits are weird - usually very cruxy, I guess Yann's too strong to notice!
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M - 4 mile run
T - 30 minutes bouldering 10 -12 routes at the foundry, up to 7b
W - hour bouldering, 3-5 move problems on board, 4x4 on 6c-c+ routes
T - pull ups / lock off on bar / rockrings; 30 minute slow run in the snow
F - pull ups, 35 minute run
S - 12 routes up to 7b+ at awesome walls
S - works, few campus ladders, yellow circuit.
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T Shed my lovely shed. Had to kick steps to get there - is that what people mean by winter climbing ? Great post session ache
Great post! So UKB.
Had a right topsy turvy week, stuffed up the knee and my big toes!
STG - Boulder as hard as I can indoors.
MTG - Improve AeroCap in line with AnCap (tickle along with this at the end of sessions)
LTG - Spain in Oct.
Mon - Rest. Ice knee.
Tue - Woke up, did exercises barefoot on the living room carpet... burns on both big toes!!! What a prat! Struggling to walk after that... small hols? Er, no. Physio to sort knee. Ouch. No bad damage thank goodness, just super inflamed and tight. Told to rest the knee for a few days so - AnCap, smallest campus rail & foot on. 21 reps x 30sec on 90sec off. (25 hand movements). Well chuffed with that.
Wed - Posted on here about training. Largest campus rail, 1min on 1min off - total 16min. Hovered hand over next hold for 3sec each time. Really felt powered out from the day before's session. Iced knee lots.
Thu - Yoga class AM. Yoga class PM. Finally put the fingerboard up!
Fri - Some pullups. Quick boulder. Face on to save the knee and nothing too steep. Up to V3 then worked a long, top end V3 - got a bit further but happy that it went from feeling desperate on the traverse to hardly needing to hold on.
Sat - Knee inflamed, lots of ice and massage. Lots of pullups spread over the day on the new fingerboard. Maybe almost 50? Actually managed 3 consecutive from full extension, felt strong (for me).
Sun - 10° face on. Worked on pinches, small edges and weighting feet properly. Worked some V4/5s and got a move further on all of them. Managed to find a way around being too short to statically do one move on a V4 that's stopped me for two weeks - really pleased with this, as I still managed it statically with just one tweak of a foot. Knee like a balloon after but a great session. Some pullups.
The knee's not great, more chuffed I didn't just plough on and really wreck it tho - most unlike me. The big toe burns are annoying however, can't believe I did it. Just sleepily thought I'd get some exercise out of the way when I woke up as it was the first day off in 16 days. Doh.
The thread I posted on here, it'll help I'm sure. Made plans to put some of the advice into action, tweaked some of the stuff I was already doing - I even found myself on the phone to a previously unknown UKBer who offered help and advice.
The AnCap session on Tuesday surprised me but it highlights the fact I need to keep ticking away at the aerocap. Been trying hard in the boulder room all week despite the knee, face on as needs be and managing to get further almost every session on V4/5. There's still a couple of V2/3s that needed ticking but with the knee how it is, I won't be on them again.
The Crusher rail is up tho and I'm popping a couple of pullups out every time I walk through the kitchen - this can only help.
All in all, despite the tweaked knee, it feels like another good week - in all aspects.
Oh yeah! Booked the ferry for Spain! :yes:
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stg - train
mtg - New local routes
ltg - Unknown now. doesn't look like any trips to smith will be scheduled for now, so To bolt is out for this year.
M - rest
T - yoga, FB - pretty good session. new PB on middle two fingers. strength work as well
W - rest
Th - yoga
F - FB-Repeaters - good session. Added 10lbs across the board compared to previous Saturday set. Progress on strength work as well
S - rest
S - FB - Repeaters - good session.
Simple but effective training week. Good thing as work drama has been driving me nuts.
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Kelvin, I had really bad blisters (effectively mild burns) from playing 5 a side barefoot on warm concrete once (think near whole surface of sole of feet).. it actually healed really fast (3-4 days..)... and after a day or two of agony was OK...
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STG: Another V7.
MTG: V8
LTG: V11
Shitty weather all week so fuck all work and most of the local rock was wet...
M: Sissy. Bunch of stuff up to V4. Nearly did a V6, fell off the last move a bunch of times (weird dyno to a baaad sloper). And worked Rebel Scum V7 again, I think backwards progress from last time but its only 4 moves... It's just the last move... Did something to my wrist that wasn't good. Wasn't a sudden thing though.
T: Indoors. Easy bouldering and finger boarding. Tiny bit of campussing. Wrist is worse.
W: Gym. Wrist has been getting worse. Couldn't even do a push up without immense pain.
T: Indoors. Wrist abit better. No pinches or slopers on left hand.
F: Big work day. Ran up nearly 600m of ladder. Indoors after I think. Add ons. Made some awesome hard moves. Wrist is abit better.
S: Trenches. Stiff grades there. Had never been there before. Bunch of stuff up to V4 including a wicked big double dyno backwards out of a cave...
S: Northern Beaches day. Whale blocks and Palm Beach boulders. A few things up to V3. Put up a couple new problems. Nice swim next to Palm Beach boulders.
Busy week training. Haven't been able to push it because of my wrist but it's getting better now.
Thought I had a rest day but I guess not.
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Kelvin, I had really bad blisters (effectively mild burns) from playing 5 a side barefoot on warm concrete once (think near whole surface of sole of feet).. it actually healed really fast (3-4 days..)... and after a day or two of agony was OK...
Cheers Tom - down to a couple of 20p sized scabs now :-) and good to see you had a crack at getting outside.
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Mon: 40 min trail run
Tues: Weights and leg rehab exercises
Wed: Hangboard - 1 arms and repeaters, 100+ pushups
Thurs: 40 min trail run
Fri: 5am hangboard session - 1 arms and repeaters
Sat: Bouldering - ticked two 7Bs and two 7As. Really good day. 5km walk in the evening. Ate terribly and drank too much though.
Sun: Bouldering - ticked another 7A and a 7B, but failed on a 7B+. I blame the hangover.
All in all, a decent week. Managed to survive sharkathon.
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Mon- enforced rest due to work.
Tues- ditto. Third rest day in a row.
Wed- Bouldering Alnwick moonboard. Felt really good due to rest i guess. Repeated all of the problems i can do and did a new 7A in a session.
Thurs- tried to boulder again but too much so stopped after 40 mins. Felt like i was going to break.
Fri- rest from climbing but had two hours surfing though. Perfect session on my own, overhead waves, left reef, snow on the beach. Magic.
Sat- 1 1/2 hrs on moonboard. Great session again with yet more progress. Then 5/10 FB session with big improvements.
Sun- Vinyasa yoga 45 mins.
First week since the new year where i have failed to stick to my plan. Work starting to get in the way with a few 14hr days. Managed to keep the bouldering up to three sessions even though one was pretty poor. Firm believer that the bouldering is by far the most important part of the plan and should be the last thing to be dropped. All the FB/core/aerocap stuff comes second and should never substitute an hour on the board.
The two good sessions I had bouldering were as strong as i have have been this year so i guess the rest was good.
This weeks going to be even worse I think as I am in Holland wed-sat with work so no access to climbing and also beer and food consumption will go up.
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STG- Finish film without becoming crap at climbing, find a way to do decent volume of training without getting injured.
MTG- New grades this year.
LTG- 9b+
M- Rest.
T- Pullups, pushups, clean-and-press, shoulder shrugs.
W- Pullups and pushups.
T- Notts Depot. New yellows. Yellows are hard for me and often require bearing down on small flat egdes/ nonpositive pinches- the danger holds for the finger problems I battled with for the whole of 2014. I've avoided them for more than a year but my fingers feel almost normal since I've understood the roots of the problem and have performed rehab religiously. Warm up well and get stuck in- the problems start going down. Offwidth (a man who I know loves being named and shamed on this forum ;) ) arrives and we chat about my two favourite subjects (my film and Black Rocks in general) = 15 minutes stood still in freezing cold with only a t-shirt (and trousers and climbing shoes obviously) on. Despite immediately acknowedging that I need to totally warm back up before I get back on the yellows I just do three star jumps and two easier problems with my jumper on before recommencing. ::) Familiar tweak on left middle finger.
F- Rest. Depressed about finger all day. Video editing in the evening- got very psyched.
S- Nothing. Ate a lot. Rubbed finger a lot.
S- Nothing. Watched Ice hockey. For the Notts resident it's a surreal sporting event-capacity crowd with a positive attitude and victory almost guaranteed! Rubbed finger all day.
Feels terrible to have tweaked my finger again- obviously I climbed hard when I was cold but my fingers were also feeling a bit stiffer over the preceding week, which I can only put down to doing more volume of training and not doing the bit of my rehab that's meant to sort my posture out. I need to get one of these back-roller thingies I think.
Understanding the cause of my problem is good though- when I did my daily stretching after the wall on Thursday my finger immediately felt better and rubbing it to increase the bloodflow helps too. Going to go to the wall on Thursday and see how it feels on easier stuff.
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Not been posting in Power Club for a while but I am in a more regimented training phase so it helps to write things down.
10 st 5 lb
STG: Stay injury free, Brean Topping.
MTG: Fisheye, Oliana.
LTG: Big wall/hard multipitch, 8A/+ boulder problem (bloc style < 10 moves), UK 8b+/c, live in Spain.
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Boulder 4x4s (~8 moves) - V6 (failed on second one but finished the 4 after some attempts), V4 x 2 sets and a V3 set.
Thursday: AM - Long endurance circuits (60 - 80 moves, 7c - 8a). 1 x 60 moves, 2 x 80 moves. PM - 2x2s/4x4s on routes - 7c + 7a+ (wanted to do 2 X 7cs but was wrecked after 1), 7b x 4 and 7a+ x 4.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Portland - 6b, 6c, 8a (6c into a 7B/+ boulder problem), 7c.
Sunday: Westway board - V8, V7, V7, V6, V5. Systems board X 10 (3 min rests) - Completed set but was too tired to complete many moves for each grip type. Was meant to do repeaters but didn't bother. Theraband and stretching.
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86.6Kg
STG - get below 85Kg by 7 March.
M - Lunch. Short campus session in the Foundry. Couldn't do 1-4-7, which is pretty dire for me. Heavy. P.M. Works - mainly comp wall problems for a change.
T - Drove to Scotland for work.
W - Crap weather, so Ice Factor. Half a dozen ice routes, then same on plastic up to 7a+.
T - Walked into the Ben on a poor forecast, so didn't get committed on anything.. in the event it was a mega day :'( Observing clients. Ankle good, but tweaked lower back.
F - Bad back so drove home.
S - Bad back but improving
S - Back improving
Have returned from Scotland committed to getting light/fit for the spring. Start training prog this week. Re-tweaked my 4-year old back injury, but seems to be sorting itself out quickly.
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In an attempt to get up to and surpass previous highpoints post illness and to add a a little more structure I’ve decided to join Power Club.
STG
• Don’t let life get in the way too much
• Stick to the plan
• Back up to previous highpoint, 7A in short order, 7B with effort
M – Wall session, multiple problems up to “V8”, softest grades at the wall yet
T – Short run, 4 miles @ 7min/mile ish
W – BM: 35 Deg Repeaters followed by JWI Week 2 Ab session
T – Wall session, more problems to V6, felt tried after the BM session on Weds
F – Skipped the track session to go out for pizza with family and friends
S – Nothing
S – Crack School at Leeds Wall. Really good, made me realise I what I am good at (just need to be confident and relax) and what I’m rubbish at (parallel fingers), just need to make sure I remember and use what I have learnt in the real world. Managed there and back on the crack machine – chuffed.
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ltg - Unknown now. doesn't look like any trips to smith will be scheduled for now, so To bolt is out for this year.
No! Bad news.
Simple but effective training week. Good thing as work drama has been driving me nuts.
Connected to the above?
A bit. I'm in the situation of being in a very comfortable and easy job position with good retention, decent pay and good benefits, but that is bogged down by politics, red tape and bureaucracy, work with generally crap people, and both myself and my work and is unappreciated (I wrote an evaluation and it gets ignored, we hire a contractor to write an evaluation-i write it for them because they don't know what they're doing-and it gets followed). I'm in the process of starting/developing my own business, but that holds great uncertainty so it's a huge shift for me in both my lifestyle and thinking. At this stage if I'm going to make a real go of it, then #2, 3 and 4 priorities are the new job. (#1 is my family).
What's really hard for me is that I've never in my life actually prioritized my job above my personal life. It just feels wrong.
On a positive note, To Bolt may be on if things go well with the business as we're bidding on a project in Bend Oregon right now which would involve significant travel to Bend (monthly for 6-8 months). :)
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Su: Decided to try climbing outdoors... went to Hobby Moor - cold, many streaks, but still things do-able. Did about 10 mins worth then my back/hip felt decidedly dodgy/tweaky so beat a retreat home. Despondent beastmaker flagellation.
I need to ease my back into climbing within the warmer, more controlled environment of a wall... Had it been good spring conditions it might be a good option outside, but I need to get used to the movement a bit more first...
YOU GOT OUTSIDE!! ;D
And very good self awareness. good luck breaking back into climbing
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Goals
January: Max effort strength/power with free weights. Power/Olympic Lifting.
February-March: Building base fitness long distance running. Slow long distance running & Tempo Runs. Heal my shoulder injury.
April-September: Street Run 11K Kortrijk. Climbing/bouldering/training for God Shave the queen. Antwerp marathon.
October-November: Project "God Shave the Queen" (8a)
Have you identified for yourself which goals are your priorities?
and how much run training have you done? are you looking for any advice? combining running and climbing training is quite hard to do effectively as you really have to make sacrifices in one or the other.
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STG - Stay uninjured, get strong ready for the weather to change...
T - Dodgy knee and sciatica, skipped my indoor session and did 45 mins BM (3 sets)
Fr - Indoor
Su - Knee O.K indoors,
Not sure wether to cut down to 2 indoor session and 2 BM per week instead of 3 indoor/ 1 BM.
Looks like 2 and 1 this week.
I would think it depends on goals. routes/boulders? If your goal is to stay strong, I'd look at 1 BM, 1 campus, 1 hard boulder, and 1 easy/fun ARC session. It won't get you very much stronger as quickly as a good planned cycle, but it should keep ou ready
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January Goals
V8 Indoors or 1-4-7 on the Campus Board - not done.
3 days out 2/3 - not done
Lose 2kg - done. Lost 3kgs.
Wed
Fingerboard
6x6 second hangs. New PB. 1 handed on Beastmaker 1 pad edge. -3.75kg.
Some bouldering to warm up + down. Tried to limit it to not get more ill.
Ok week - in raw strength i've gone from needing 7.5kg assistance to hang the 1 pad edge for 6 seconds, to half that. So that at least feels like progress over the last 6 months. Didn't boulder enough to hit my main goal of V8. But will try again in Feb.
February Goals
V8 Indoors or 1-4-7 on the Campus Board
Go to Spain uninjured + stronger than i've been before
Not sure if you caught the comments re: JackAus last week on power club, but I'd think similar may apply. As a reference point, I can't one arm hang the beastmaker 1 pad edge. The FB, and v8 and 1-4-7 goals tells me more you likely have more finger/pull strength than should be needed, and there's a weakness somewhere else. Core/technique/legs/explosive str/etc. I don't know, but I'd look hard to see where you may have a weakness to address.
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Awful week. Felt a bit broken at work for a few days. Stressed and anxious. Didn't do anything other than climbing on Saturday.
Saturday: Phoenix Wall (my style, so not really the point); Pinky Traverse (easy finish); Rachel's Box. Shredded a tip badly on the last problem so that's the wall out of the question until at least the end of the week.
Not a great result.
Tape up and train anyway?
Back on the horse :boxing: :weakbench:
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STG: (March) indoor 7a ROUTE
A step forward for me today: Thalkirchen has a lead wall sector that goes up 17 metres and overhangs about 15. In the four years I've been going there I - shamefully, being easily intimidated by teh steep - never had the bottle to set foot on it. Today I did, and fell turning the lip of the final roof. Falling at the lip of a roof is a situation I find mentally difficult anyway, even when it isn't twenty metres up. yyfy. ;D
Boarding in fresh snow is a fantastic feeling, and I have been contemplating getting a splitboard for a while now, but I heard on the radio on the way home that ten people died in avalanches in Switzerland this weekend. Five of them on an avalanche safety training course. Maybe I should stick to sport climbing.
Yes it is. I've tried the new dps skiis and they still don't compare witha board on powder. It's so a perfect feeling carving hard on a board in Powder :)
FWIW-I have a prior split board and I like it, i've had a play on a jones split board with new step in bindings, and it was FANtastic:)
The pain in the ass with a split board is changing them out, and terrain limitations. let me know if you have more questions. I'm sure there are a few here with good info.
I'd heard about the deaths in Swizz, and we've had a few in the northwest US as well. bad year for Avi conditions. well, bad snow year in general for us.
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Also bought and cut the ply for the campus board so nothing left but to screw it on and add the rungs :bounce:
I'm excited to see what comes of this :)
I'm going to start building mine next week.
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Firm believer that the bouldering is by far the most important part of the plan and should be the last thing to be dropped. All the FB/core/aerocap stuff comes second and should never substitute an hour on the board.
The two good sessions I had bouldering were as strong as i have have been this year so i guess the rest was good.
That's awesome to see the progress :)
The moonboard is pretty nails, and is definitely sandbagged pretty hard at the lower grades. It feels like the 7B-7C stuff is generally much closer to grade, but still stiff. Which setup do they have on it? Hold set and pattern?
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STG - Stay uninjured, get strong ready for the weather to change...
T - Dodgy knee and sciatica, skipped my indoor session and did 45 mins BM (3 sets)
Fr - Indoor
Su - Knee O.K indoors,
Not sure wether to cut down to 2 indoor session and 2 BM per week instead of 3 indoor/ 1 BM.
Looks like 2 and 1 this week.
I would think it depends on goals. routes/boulders? If your goal is to stay strong, I'd look at 1 BM, 1 campus, 1 hard boulder, and 1 easy/fun ARC session. It won't get you very much stronger as quickly as a good planned cycle, but it should keep ou ready
I'm a 43 year old punter who started climbing far too late, susceptible to shoulder problems, currently at 6A outside/ 6B indoors max. I'd love to hit 7A by 50. I'm lookin to progress slowly without getting injured and have fun in the forest.
I'm currently doing 3 sessions per week, but this is usually 3 indoor sessions where I aimlessly wander about trying stuff I like the look of. I think I could mange 2bM (45mins max) + 1 hard boulder, 1 easy boulder per week. 3 bouldering sessions + 1 BM might be tough on the old body. When the weather is O.K. I'm doing 1 session outside.
Only interesting in boulders.
Thanks foe replying.
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LTG- 9b+
Shocking lack of ambition here. Last week's goal of Dawn Wall OS was a proper LTG.
Feels terrible to have tweaked my finger again- obviously I climbed hard when I was cold but my fingers were also feeling a bit stiffer over the preceding week, which I can only put down to doing more volume of training and not doing the bit of my rehab that's meant to sort my posture out. I need to get one of these back-roller thingies I think.
More seriously I'm interested in what the posture sorting exercises you're doing are? I've had a similar diagnosis and am doing various shoulder stability exercises such as shrugs and some light weight work.
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STG - Stay uninjured, get strong ready for the weather to change...
T - Dodgy knee and sciatica, skipped my indoor session and did 45 mins BM (3 sets)
Fr - Indoor
Su - Knee O.K indoors,
Not sure wether to cut down to 2 indoor session and 2 BM per week instead of 3 indoor/ 1 BM.
Looks like 2 and 1 this week.
I would think it depends on goals. routes/boulders? If your goal is to stay strong, I'd look at 1 BM, 1 campus, 1 hard boulder, and 1 easy/fun ARC session. It won't get you very much stronger as quickly as a good planned cycle, but it should keep ou ready
I'm a 43 year old punter who started climbing far too late, susceptible to shoulder problems, currently at 6A outside/ 6B indoors max. I'd love to hit 7A by 50. I'm lookin to progress slowly without getting injured and have fun in the forest.
I'm currently doing 3 sessions per week, but this is usually 3 indoor sessions where I aimlessly wander about trying stuff I like the look of. I think I could mange 2bM (45mins max) + 1 hard boulder, 1 easy boulder per week. 3 bouldering sessions + 1 BM might be tough on the old body. When the weather is O.K. I'm doing 1 session outside.
Only interesting in boulders.
Thanks foe replying.
No problem. Given that, I'd maybe think about alternating weeks. week 1 - 2BM, 1 hard, 1 easy. week 2 - 1 Bm, 2 hard boulder. Or just alternating workouts, BM, Hard Boulder, Easy Boulder, BM, Hard, Easy, etc. as you go.
Fun in the forest makes me jealous. :P
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No problem. Given that, I'd maybe think about alternating weeks. week 1 - 2BM, 1 hard, 1 easy. week 2 - 1 Bm, 2 hard boulder. Or just alternating workouts, BM, Hard Boulder, Easy Boulder, BM, Hard, Easy, etc. as you go.
Fun in the forest makes me jealous. :P
Cheers, sounds like a good plan. I'll start tomorrow. :2thumbsup:
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That's awesome to see the progress :)
The moonboard is pretty nails, and is definitely sandbagged pretty hard at the lower grades. It feels like the 7B-7C stuff is generally much closer to grade, but still stiff. Which setup do they have on it? Hold set and pattern?
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Original set up 8, Set A set up 4 and set B set up 4.
This was the set up at the schoolroom so i changed my local board (Alnwick) to match that. i am in Sheffield all week but Northumberland fri-mon so its nice to have the same board to train on. Ben has just changed the school board but i still have stuff to do on this set up so going to leave it.
The grades are in line with the other school boards I guess, i.e. nails. But your right about them levelling out in the high sevens and 8s. Hopefully i will be there in a few months.
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My friend and I have boards at our houses, and have hold set A setup 2 and hold set B setup 2, which is the same pattern as Hold Set A&B setup 1.
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A blast back to last weeks power club - and Sasq's warning to me about over-doing the half crimps on the BM...
I've found these a bit too hard to be comfortable the last couple of sessions - so have been splitting holds - IE left hand on slot, RH on crimp and swap etc... Obviously I will load the bigger hold more - but this seems to be a 'safer' way to get more used/accustomed to the half crimp...
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STG - Peak 8a's in Spring
MTG - Raindogs in Autumn
LTG - The Hourglass left-hand
First planned week of strength phase:
M- totally trashed from week boarding, had felt my back twinge several times last few days of holiday and carrying bags on the journey home.
T - forced myself into action, attempted Repeaters but didn't have the umph, nearly sacked it off but turned it into a (sub) max hangs session which went ok.
W - Repeaters (4 reps, 7s hang, 3s rest x 7 grips)
T - Snow so kids off school - sledging, snowman construction, car and drive clearance, etc.
F - Woke up with a headache 4th day on the trot but now accompanied by cold symptoms too, Aerocap at Mini-Works (bastards have reset the blue so my sideways circuits are fucked :furious:), 3x20mins, felt totally nails, kept meh-ing off. Spent afternoon dozing.
S - Repeaters (as per Wed)
S- Meh
Feels like a poor week with fatigue and illness taking it's toll and back problems still hanging around, not been able to train at 100% and its felt like something of a compromise.
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Having checked through my training diaries I have discovered I was at my strongest during a fingerboard phase when doing max hangs on day 1 followed by repeaters the next days and came up with a plan that goes:
M - max hangs (15-20 hangs)
T - repeaters (6 grips x 2 sets each)
W - Aero
Th - rest (possibly something CV)
F - max hangs
S - repeaters
S - rest
Anyone (Sas?) care to critique this?
Maybe it was just coincidence I was so strong last time?
I've been fingerboarding periodically for about five years now so should be fairly adapted to it but is it too much hangtime?
Consecutive days too much?
The plan is just to perform it for 4 weeks then move onto power.
Think I've used up my quota of question marks now.
Thanks all
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LTG- 9b+
Shocking lack of ambition here. Last week's goal of Dawn Wall OS was a proper LTG.
;D
More seriously I'm interested in what the posture sorting exercises you're doing are? I've had a similar diagnosis and am doing various shoulder stability exercises such as shrugs and some light weight work.
I'll PM you.
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Mon. Turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Board did a couple of things that I worked out last week. Couldn't do the hard one, can't do the move yet.
Thu. Turbo 1 hour.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board did project plus a few other things.
Sun. Board easy mirror session 41 problems.
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Having checked through my training diaries I have discovered I was at my strongest during a fingerboard phase when doing max hangs on day 1 followed by repeaters the next days and came up with a plan that goes:
M - max hangs (15-20 hangs)
T - repeaters (6 grips x 2 sets each)
W - Aero
Th - rest (possibly something CV)
F - max hangs
S - repeaters
S - rest
Anyone (Sas?) care to critique this?
Maybe it was just coincidence I was so strong last time?
I've been fingerboarding periodically for about five years now so should be fairly adapted to it but is it too much hangtime?
Consecutive days too much?
The plan is just to perform it for 4 weeks then move onto power.
Think I've used up my quota of question marks now.
Thanks all
Happy to comment, alhtough I'm not a a pro coach either.
A few years ago I found a similar thing although not looking at repeater/max hangs. I found that I would do a FB max hang workout, then go boulder the next day and felt great/crushed it. I think it's due to the recruitment carryover, and I'm not convinced it's a good thing to be aware of for training, although it is good to be aware of it for performance. I've seen it in other sports where it is common the day before an event to do a short workout with really high intensity.
I've been fingerboarding periodically for about five years now so should be fairly adapted to it but is it too much hangtime?
Speaking as an old dad susceptible to injury, yes, I would be wary of hangboarding on successive days. But i don't see any harm mixing up max hangs and repeaters/ encores in the same session ... in fact personally I am very keen to see progress in both.
The main thing I have taken away from the "Rock Climbers Training Manual" book - which I realise may already be very obvious to many people - is the importance of intensity when you do train. I have definitely been guilty of "tick the box" training in the past. Now I do try to give 100% to sessions and so definitely wouldn't be able to train hangboard two days successively. Or if I did, the second day would be sub-par.
I fully agree that intensity is the key to seeing returns, and volume will likely be the limiter for doing 2 days in a row. I can't imagine doing a second FB workout the day after a hard repeater workout, but the day after max hangs I can definitely still pull really hard. That said, I think that may be a good workout structure overall, but pay really close attention to your gains. The two day easy/rest days in between should help you maintain recovery, but i'd worry a bit about the one day rest. Perhaps on the F, S combo reduce the volume of repeaters, or combine them into a single workout as Habrich mentioned.
I did Max hangs and repeaters this fall in a combo workout I really liked this fall. It was:
Warm-up
Progressive max hangs:
10 second 1/2 crimp at 75% total goal weight (body weight plus added weight), 3min rest
10 second 1/2 crimp at 85% total goal weight (body weight plus added weight), 3min rest
10 second 1/2 crimp at 95% total goal weight (body weight plus added weight), 3min rest
Max Hangs:
3-5 x 10 second 1/2 crimp at 100% total goal weight (body weight plus added weight), 3min rest
Rest 5 min
Repeaters
6 grips, 3 min rest in between
rest 7 min
6 grips, 3 min rest in between
This has fewer max hangs than what you're doing, but personally I found I couldn't maintain the intensity on Max hangs beyond 8-9 hangs across any number of grips.
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The plan is just to perform it for 4 weeks then move onto power.
So this is an interesting thing to me. I'm not to be convinces that repeaters are a "strength exercise", but then I'm also yet to be convinced a 4 wk Str followed by a 4 wk power is the right way to go.
I feel like repeaters are more of a strength endurance and/or work capacity type exercise. As such they are quite good at building up your body's capacity to perform work, and at recovering from it. There may be cross over strength gains, but I suspect you're not increasing your raw strength as much as your ability to perform more work. This isn't to knock repeaters, it's to understand the reason for doing them and how to follow them from a training perspective. If you follow a repeater cycle with a campusing power cycle, you are move from a workload of 504 seconds (7sec x 6reps x 6grips x 2sets = 504seconds) to a workload timewise of 60-200 seconds for a HARD campus workout (figure a campus attempt takes 4-8 seconds, and you'll do between 15-25 attempts in a session). For me, this clearly shows the relative strength impact.
If you look at the "Rock Climbers Training Manual" book and the structure of their "power" cycle you'll see it alternates between a Campus Workout and a Max Boulder workout, and their max boulder workout is intended to be focused on moves at your absolute limit, and only in the 1-5 move range for the problems and lots of rest in between efforts, but every effort should be 100%. This keeps you well down in total volume as compared to the work performed during the repeater sets.
So to me what they're advocating is a work capacity period followed by a strength period followed by a str endurance period.
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What's really hard for me is that I've never in my life actually prioritized my job above my personal life. It just feels wrong.
I was going to say that I am the same but on reflection it is not true. I have submitted to working for a long period in cities far-from-climbing. However, I have never committed properly to jobs; always been somewhat subversive and a PITA to my employers whilst maxing out my holiday allowances. So possibly making the worst of both worlds.
It really scares me, but i'm hopeful of ending in a better place than I am now with better long term prospects :)
I have a Prior board (the local brand here) with the Spark Magneto bindings. They swap pretty fast. I find the slowest parts of a transition to ski's is putting on the skins, which is of course common with skiers, and - going the other way - re-assembly of the board, which often seems to require some tedious de-icing along the "split" edges.
Same board as me :) With regards to the terrain, I mean that if you have a small hill to try and get over, a skier and pole/herringbone for 20-50 feet, but on a board in powder, you're relegated to taking the board off, breaking it down into skis, and putting your skins on just to move 50ft. It really sucks.... and the deeped the powder the worse it is. Plus skiers don't think about it so partners can be a PITA. Anyway totally off topic
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Thanks for the replies guys, some good advice and ideas. Agree the one rest day is too little, it'd also mean fingerboarding 4 days out of five which sounds daft now I think about it. Think I'm getting a bit frustrated with my back limiting other stuff I can do - no steep boards, limited to the weights I can lift, the core work I can do and no running, so I'm trying to fill my time in other ways and yes, putting in tick-the-box training days.
Combining max hangs and repeaters in a session seems a good idea, could maybe use that session just for weaker grips or maybe max hangs on some grips and repeaters on others? Or just stick to the RCTM structure which I could kind of fit my weeks into with the odd rule bend here and there. Guess we're all just experimenting with this stuff anyway so I should stop over thinking and just start trying hard.
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The plan is just to perform it for 4 weeks then move onto power.
So this is an interesting thing to me. I'm not to be convinces that repeaters are a "strength exercise", but then I'm also yet to be convinced a 4 wk Str followed by a 4 wk power is the right way to go.
Could have sworn you'd said before that you alternated between fingerboard and bouldering and made gains over the years.
I do 3&4 rep repeaters which seems to be more strength orientated than 6-7 which I find too long. We'll see on the power phase, total pants at campussing so could be tricky.
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so I should stop over thinking and just start trying hard.
Me too.
It's interesting to read the comments about tick-the-box training - I've managed to get away from social climbing lately but if I'm carrying a tweak like now, I tend to head to the wall 'just to do something'. This week I didn't and proper went for it on the campus rail and had a pretty good result and that was mainly down to 100% commitment and the intensity being there I guess. I need to focus more on intensity.
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With regards to the terrain, I mean that if you have a small hill to try and get over, a skier and pole/herringbone for 20-50 feet, but on a board in powder, you're relegated to taking the board off, breaking it down into skis, and putting your skins on just to move 50ft. It really sucks.... and the deeper the powder the worse it is. Plus skiers don't think about it so partners can be a PITA. Anyway totally off topic
I don't doubt for a second that skis are the only way to go if you actually want a tool for moving about in the mountains. Snowboards are purely toys, albeit rather fine toys. I've considered learning to ski and getting into touring down that road, but I'd have to go back to being a total beginner for several winters. Not that I'm any kind of good snowboarder, but I'm at least somewhat competent and able to get down the hill.
I did a powder course with a guide in Zillertal a few winters ago (I was the weakest in the group by far). He said he only snowboarded for years, but switched back to skis because, as he put it, modern skis are *nearly* as good as a snowboard in powder, and so much more practical in every other way.
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Could have sworn you'd said before that you alternated between fingerboard and bouldering and made gains over the years.
Yes/no. I've tried a variety of things and seen different levels of progress at each one. One of the biggest hurdles I have at the moment is evaluating the efficacy of my training over the last 3-4 years as I've blown a tendon in each of the last two (feb 2013 and mar 2014) and it takes about 6-8 months to get back to pre-injury status. This means It's been hard to tell a difference as I can't actually tell if I've plateaued. It also doesn't help that I am doing almost exclusively development and don't have a any good standards to compare myself to.
In the summers, of 2012 and 2013 I did 2 sessions of Max hangs and 1 bouldering session per week and saw consistent steady gains, but hit the same peak each summer (recovering from feb tendon). This past summer I added campusing in and did 4wk max hangs followed by 4 wk campusing for two cycles. This saw good gains and I realized the campusing really helped me engage on certain types of movement. Then, this past fall I switched it up to doing the combo max hang/repeater WO's for 4 weeks followed by campusing for 4 weeks following a trip to squamish in August. The first cycle ended with sends of three local projects all in the 8A-8B range. The second ended with my Bishop trip, which had my first two 7C+ onsights, several 7C flashes, my first 8A in a day, and sending Mandala. So far this has been the best results I've seen.
My current goals are more route based, so I've taken out the max hangs from the FB, and added more sets-currently doing 3 sets of 5 grips. I'm also trying to do solid aerocap sessions the day after so my goal is:
Day 1 - FB
Day 2 - Aerocap
Day 3 - Rest
I do 3&4 rep repeaters which seems to be more strength orientated than 6-7 which I find too long. We'll see on the power phase, total pants at campussing so could be tricky.
I'd agree the 3-4rep repeaters would be much more strength based. Another option would be barrows 5on/10off concept.
If you're pants at campusing, that's an even better reason to do it.(assuming your back will let you) as you'll see the most gains from it :)
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When you say campusing for for weeks, is that one session per week combined with steep bouldering as per RCTM, or just campus sessions?
And when I say I'm rubbish, I really mean it (and don't quite understand why). On my homeboard (built for Foot-On work) I have medium (1") rungs and struggle to do 1-2-3. it's not an ideal setup for foot-off work, possibly not quite steep enough and not undercut but at the Works on their large (2 joint) rungs I could lock off between 1-4-7 (which defeats the purpose of the exercise somewhat) but anything smaller I was struggling. Not sure there's any value in yarding on such big holds as those. Looking for basic exercises I iust found this (http://cruxcrush.com/2014/09/15/how-to-train-on-the-campus-board/), is exercise #1 kind of like Barrows' 5-10 routine, could be worth trying late in the strength phase as prep for campusing.
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so I should stop over thinking and just start trying hard.
[/quote]
Me too.
It's interesting to read the comments about tick-the-box training - I've managed to get away from social climbing lately but if I'm carrying a tweak like now, I tend to head to the wall 'just to do something'. This week I didn't and proper went for it on the campus rail and had a pretty good result and that was mainly down to 100% commitment and the intensity being there I guess. I need to focus more on intensity.
[/quote]
I think you have hit the nail on the head there. The idea of structured training, periodisation etc are all well and good but they have become the ruling factor in peoples training. Its great to have a plan but just sticking too it for the sake of ticking a box in the plan just seems stupid. A half arsed evening session hanging of the FB might look good on your monthly planner, and on here, but you would have been better chilling out with a glass of wine relaxing so your fired up for the next day to train properly. Sorry to those who took part, but i thought the sharkathon was a daft idea that served no purpose at all. You need to rest, mentally as well as physically. Dragging yourself out just to say you have done something is pointless.
It seems a lot on here are going through the motions in a lot of sessions. 3-4 good sessions a week putting 95-100% into them will see good improvements, if you can do all the other stuff on top with as much effort and enthusiasm then the rewards will be greater.
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+1 to most of gav's points
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Sorry to those who took part, but i thought the sharkathon was a daft idea that served no purpose at all.
I give it a couple more year's and you'll be doing it too
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GME etc you missed the point that the Sharkathon was about some form of general exercise per day (which can include some very mild stuff that would count as active rest, if that), NOT about specific intensive climbing training per day.
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I thought it was just a fun thing to lose some Christmas lard.
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GME etc you missed the point that the Sharkathon was about some form of general exercise per day (which can include some very mild stuff that would count as active rest, if that), NOT about specific intensive climbing training per day.
I didn't miss the point at all. As stated the whole idea was to do something every day, but the focus was on every day rather than on the something. The tick was more important than what was ticked.
When you read the comments a lot of the time it was forced and very much going through the motions. I suggest that missing a few days and chilling with the family/girl/boy/wine/tv but then doing things properly with some effort would be much more beneficial.
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STG: get fit for Font at Easter, ie continue rehabbing fingers and don't get new injuries. I'm a bit reluctant to set grade goals for font but 7B in the forest would be satisfying
M. shoulders, reverse flies, shrugs etc. eve indoor strength session, doing 5 sec on 10 sec off x 4 on FB various holds. I'm going to try this for the next while as a 'strength/hypertrophy phase' before going back to max hangs. also did some moderate campusing.
T. shoulders, endurance indoor session, doing laps on circuit board, knackered and could probably have done without this session
W. shoulders
T. indoors again, similar to monday plus some projecting problems in 7A-B range
F. shouldrs
S. I was keen to get out but none of the usual partners were, the forecast was for f-f-freezing so I didn't want to head out on my own so indoors again. Not happy to be indoors so much but had a reasonable session in the end including catching up with a friend I hadn't seen in ages.
S. more shoulders
A reasonable week, I had a mild finger tweak on tuesday trying to sneak in an extra session when I might have rested but generally the fingers are getting better.
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GME, I got the impression that most people were trying to do their normal focused climbing training AND keeping going doing some form of supplementary exercise on the days off instead of drinking wine on those days, instead of just doing a load of random shit for the sharkathon tick - and that those who were doing the random shit were doing so because they couldn't fit in proper training due to time & injury etc. I may be wrong in which case shark can take over arguing the point :P
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GME, I got the impression that most people were trying to do their normal focused climbing training AND keeping going doing some form of supplementary exercise on the days off instead of drinking wine on those days, instead of just doing a load of random shit for the sharkathon tick - and that those who were doing the random shit were doing so because they couldn't fit in proper training due to time & injury etc. I may be wrong in which case shark can take over arguing the point :P
You are wrong! I was still drinking wine on days off.
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STG - trad projects
MTG - various turning 40 related things + 8c
LTG - 9a
BHAG - Bruderliebe
M - The 400. BM session +20kg.
T - The 400
W - The 400. BM session unweighted
T - The 400. An hour at the wall, flashed all the problems in this round of the boulder league, then some routes.
F - The 400. 40 mins swim, did a length underwater for the first time in, well ages...
S - The 400. A couple of hours outside on projects
S - The 400. A quick hour outside on projects
A reasonable week, been busy with kids, work, life so pleased to still keep things going. And to complete the Sharkathon. And on that subject...
I actually thought it was a worthwhile thing GME, not because what I did made me stronger or better at climbing or whatever. Just because it was a little personal challenge which I managed to tick (always nice) and it seemed like a decent way of blowing away the christmas cobwebs. Looking at my targets for this year, and given my location and bird-bans, trip dates, chosen routes I'm realistically not going to be getting on any key targets until summer, and the main event is going to be until Autumn, so a month at the start of the year giving myself a bit of a lightweight beasting doesn't seem like a terrible thing. Maybe if I lived in Sheff and aspired to ticking grit lines in the next couple of weeks then I could have done better things with my Jan, but I don't think there's anything massively wrong with the Sharkathon idea. Obviously it needs a sensible approach, it's one thing to try hard to do stuff but pushing into/through injury would be crazy. And from what I remember people did "fall off the wagon" for a day or two rather than head into that territory. Having said that, I'm in no rush to do any more press ups... ;)
Having said all that, I totally agree with the "high quality, trying hard" being very important, and "just going through the motions" generally being a bit of a rubbish waste of time.
Sass you have become the advice-a-saurus, nice work fella :2thumbsup:
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Thanks! I thought about the point of power club, what I've gotten out of UKB, and felt like this was a good place to give back.
Besides- it helps all of us learn a little bit more so hopefully we all get something out of it. myself included.
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Thanks! I thought about the point of power club, what I've gotten out of UKB, and felt like this was a good place to give back.
Besides- it helps all of us learn a little bit more so hopefully we all get something out of it. myself included.
Yeah SAS - try harder! Myself, nai and Gav all say so. Lucid Dreaming it is then ;-)
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When you say campusing for for weeks, is that one session per week combined with steep bouldering as per RCTM, or just campus sessions?
At this stage I'm following the RCTM structure of every other session, for a total of 5 campus workouts. The cycles I did this past summer were a bit different. They were more similar to my fingerboarding during the summer in that I can generally get outside once a week, so that is my #1 goal. Then I'll try to get two other really good workouts during the week. So most of the summer campusing was 2 campus and 1 outside boulder session per week.
The campus routine I've been using and will probably keep using is:
Warm-up - 5min easy traversing
5 min bar work - 3x(20sec hang, 5 pullups, 5 ankles to bar, resting 10-15 between each)
Boulder ladder - 2 x v0, 2x v1, 2x v2, 2x v3, 2x v4, 2x v5, 2x v6 (the goal is to do about 10-15 progressively harder boulder problems)
Campus WU1 - 2 x ladder up large rungs 2min rest in between
Minimum edge depth hang - 10 second hang, 2 minute rest
Campus WU2 - 2 x ladder up medium rungs 2min rest in between
Minimum edge depth hang - 10 second hang, 2 minute rest
Campus WU3 - 2 x ladder up small rungs 2min rest in between
Minimum edge depth hang - 10 second hang, 5 minute rest
Max Ladders 10-14 reps with 2:30 between each attempt
generally I start off with 1-3-5 each arm (2 reps), then 1-3-6 each arm (2 reps), then 1-4-6 each arm(2 reps), and if those are all successful, move on to attempting 1-4-7 each arm for 2-3 goes (4-6 reps total), then finish the last two reps with whatever I was last successful on.
Doubles 4-6 reps with 2:30 between each attempt
Start of 1-2-3, then move to 1-3-5 which i can usually do once or twice then fail.
And when I say I'm rubbish, I really mean it (and don't quite understand why). On my homeboard (built for Foot-On work) I have medium (1") rungs and struggle to do 1-2-3. it's not an ideal setup for foot-off work, possibly not quite steep enough and not undercut but at the Works on their large (2 joint) rungs I could lock off between 1-4-7 (which defeats the purpose of the exercise somewhat) but anything smaller I was struggling. Not sure there's any value in yarding on such big holds as those. Looking for basic exercises I iust found this (http://cruxcrush.com/2014/09/15/how-to-train-on-the-campus-board/), is exercise #1 kind of like Barrows' 5-10 routine, could be worth trying late in the strength phase as prep for campusing.
I really haven't explored why some people are so rubbish and others aren't when campusing, but it certainly varies widely amongst climbers. A few questions:
How steep is your board?
Which rungs do you have? homemade or purchased?
Can you generate the upward momentum quickly enough? do you "explode" upwards?
Do you struggle to latch the hold?
Do you struggle to move after latching the hold?
Each of the last three indicates different issues.
Since you can lock off 1-4-7 on big holds, it sounds like strength is not likely your issue. More likely either technique or the latching. Both of these are best learned simply by doing them. There's a certain level of technique that goes into campusing, and it does take a bit of time to learn the technique. Once you do you'll start to "feel" more natural campusing, which is a huge step.
Oh, and I'd agree that you right that locking off 1-4-7 is not the goal of campus training. I think campusing should be very dynamic.
And I think the RCTM has a much better series of articles on campusing than the crux crush one.
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Thanks! I thought about the point of power club, what I've gotten out of UKB, and felt like this was a good place to give back.
Besides- it helps all of us learn a little bit more so hopefully we all get something out of it. myself included.
Yeah SAS - try harder! Myself, nai and Gav all say so. Lucid Dreaming it is then ;-)
Absolutely - Time to TRY HARD. after my nappy that is.....
Maybe not Lucid as it's a bit far away, but I've got a local v14/15 project thats quite aesthetic and crimpy :)
Straight up the middle of this 45 degree wall. All of the moves had been done at v12/13, but then a key hold broke. Now it's much harder :)
(http://www.akclimber.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Niffleheim.jpg)
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I really haven't explored why some people are so rubbish and others aren't when campusing, but it certainly varies widely amongst climbers. A few questions:
How steep is your board?
Which rungs do you have? homemade or purchased?
Can you generate the upward momentum quickly enough? do you "explode" upwards?
Do you struggle to latch the hold?
Do you struggle to move after latching the hold?
Each of the last three indicates different issues.
Cheers for the in-depth reply, been a while sincwe I've tried so can't quite recall the problem, think it's generating the upwards force and momentum. Anyway, I'll get through the fingerboarding phase and give it a go at the Works (my board is about 15 degrees, has Metolius rungs but a bit hemmed in and I have to start off my knees so that could be part of the probelm holding legs up) and come back with some definite issues.
And thanks to yours, gme's, kelvin's and habrich's input I have reread the RCTM chapter and opted to go with something more akin to their structure, no consecutive Fingerboarding days, some Aero and mileage, combined Repeaters and max hangs in a session. Plenty of rest.
Bring. It. On.
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Cheers for the in-depth reply, been a while sincwe I've tried so can't quite recall the problem, think it's generating the upwards force and momentum.
Something you can add in after your FB work could be explosive pullups. Using a bar if you've got it, or super easy to grab jugs, do 3 sets of 3-5ish clapping pullups. This will help develop the fast twitch explosive side of pulling you need to campus well. Cut these out when you get to campusing, but they may help prep you for that dynamic pulling.
And thanks to yours, gme's, kelvin's and habrich's input I have reread the RCTM chapter and opted to go with something more akin to their structure, no consecutive Fingerboarding days, some Aero and mileage, combined Repeaters and max hangs in a session. Plenty of rest.
Bring. It. On.
Cheers, and hope it works for you. work at 100% and rest at 100% will get you strong :)
Without a doubt I've seen really good gains over the last 4-5 years as I've moved into structured and planned training. But I also popped two pulleys where i hadn't had a finger or climbing injury in 10+ years. Both were the result of not enough rest.
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Like the explosive pullups idea, I've been doing standard pullups with extra weight added but they sound like an interesting alternative, will give them a go and if I don't break immediately aim to incorporate them into a weights routine after every other FB workout.
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(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/04/a64a7cad77ac4d62e0ecd7f602fc3819.jpg)
Lowest in 20 years....!
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Nice try, you just took that photo at around quarter past ten yesterday.
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Nice try, you just took that photo at around quarter past ten yesterday.
So when did you last see a clock that measures time in st and lb? ;)
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Whoops, accidental duplication.
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"ST" is an abbreviation of Stunde, German for hours. The LB is photoshop.
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"ST" is an abbreviation of Stunde, German for hours. The LB is photoshop.
Shouldn't it be 08 seconds then? :p
Anyway, stop pissing on my chips :) when you're 45 you'll be chuffed to weight less than you did at 25 :)
Bah! Hmph! Paarp! (and assorted old man noises)
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Like the explosive pullups idea, I've been doing standard pullups with extra weight added but they sound like an interesting alternative, will give them a go and if I don't break immediately aim to incorporate them into a weights routine after every other FB workout.
It's a strength phase / power phase thing. I did weighted pullups in November-December and am doing explosive pullups now. The goal being a muscle up.
I'm getting the first pull of the first two or three sets to about my solar plexus, so getting the transition to over the bar is probably a technique thing now. Time to visit beastskills again.
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Posting in here to declare my intention to post properly in power club next week! I have been doing the most routes training I've ever done in the run up to a trip to Siurana, and can feel the benefits of it - hopefully posting on here will be a good motivator for more structured training and more benefit!
STG: Onsight 7a or harder in Siurana, and start building my base of low F7s on rock
MTG: Send a labelled V8 in the Castle, build a foundation of general strength to prevent injury
LTG: ???
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Maybe not Lucid as it's a bit far away, but I've got a local v14/15 project thats quite aesthetic and crimpy :)
Straight up the middle of this 45 degree wall. All of the moves had been done at v12/13, but then a key hold broke. Now it's much harder :)
(http://www.akclimber.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Niffleheim.jpg)
Grey 45 project!
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Thanks! I thought about the point of power club, what I've gotten out of UKB, and felt like this was a good place to give back.
Besides- it helps all of us learn a little bit more so hopefully we all get something out of it. myself included.
Ive got loads from these power club posts, my finger board workouts were pretty unproductive and not working in any real sense, not something I understood or enjoyed. I knew fingerboard would help break my plateau but didn't know how to use one properly.
Its now something I look forward to almost as much as climbing (and can fit into my life more easily now I'm a dad).
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The plan is just to perform it for 4 weeks then move onto power.
So this is an interesting thing to me. I'm not to be convinces that repeaters are a "strength exercise", but then I'm also yet to be convinced a 4 wk Str followed by a 4 wk power is the right way to go.
I feel like repeaters are more of a strength endurance and/or work capacity type exercise. As such they are quite good at building up your body's capacity to perform work, and at recovering from it. There may be cross over strength gains, but I suspect you're not increasing your raw strength as much as your ability to perform more work. This isn't to knock repeaters, it's to understand the reason for doing them and how to follow them from a training perspective. If you follow a repeater cycle with a campusing power cycle, you are move from a workload of 504 seconds (7sec x 6reps x 6grips x 2sets = 504seconds) to a workload timewise of 60-200 seconds for a HARD campus workout (figure a campus attempt takes 4-8 seconds, and you'll do between 15-25 attempts in a session). For me, this clearly shows the relative strength impact.
If you look at the "Rock Climbers Training Manual" book and the structure of their "power" cycle you'll see it alternates between a Campus Workout and a Max Boulder workout, and their max boulder workout is intended to be focused on moves at your absolute limit, and only in the 1-5 move range for the problems and lots of rest in between efforts, but every effort should be 100%. This keeps you well down in total volume as compared to the work performed during the repeater sets.
So to me what they're advocating is a work capacity period followed by a strength period followed by a str endurance period.
My two cents.. Years ago, I went through a period of depression and decided that I didn't want to leave my house to train, I forced myself to fingerboard and saw really good gains using a programme that could almost be said to be more focused on power endurance, rather than pure power. I think repeaters provide a really good power base, and with some supplementary power work, the gains magnify.
I would do three sessions a week, on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. Tuesday and Thursday were what I thought of as power, and Wednesday was power endurance.
The structure of the 'power' sessions were:
- One arm dead hangs on a 2cm rung
Sets of repeaters - small BM rung, 35 degree sloper, F3 and B3 on my 2cm rung
I added weight progressively, using the same weight for the whole session.
The power endurance sessions were based on a Ethan Pringle 20 minute hangboard session.
I'd be interested to hear any thoughts on this, because the gains were pretty good.
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The plan is just to perform it for 4 weeks then move onto power.
So this is an interesting thing to me. I'm not to be convinces that repeaters are a "strength exercise", but then I'm also yet to be convinced a 4 wk Str followed by a 4 wk power is the right way to go.
I feel like repeaters are more of a strength endurance and/or work capacity type exercise. As such they are quite good at building up your body's capacity to perform work, and at recovering from it. There may be cross over strength gains, but I suspect you're not increasing your raw strength as much as your ability to perform more work. This isn't to knock repeaters, it's to understand the reason for doing them and how to follow them from a training perspective. If you follow a repeater cycle with a campusing power cycle, you are move from a workload of 504 seconds (7sec x 6reps x 6grips x 2sets = 504seconds) to a workload timewise of 60-200 seconds for a HARD campus workout (figure a campus attempt takes 4-8 seconds, and you'll do between 15-25 attempts in a session). For me, this clearly shows the relative strength impact.
If you look at the "Rock Climbers Training Manual" book and the structure of their "power" cycle you'll see it alternates between a Campus Workout and a Max Boulder workout, and their max boulder workout is intended to be focused on moves at your absolute limit, and only in the 1-5 move range for the problems and lots of rest in between efforts, but every effort should be 100%. This keeps you well down in total volume as compared to the work performed during the repeater sets.
So to me what they're advocating is a work capacity period followed by a strength period followed by a str endurance period.
My two cents.. Years ago, I went through a period of depression and decided that I didn't want to leave my house to train, I forced myself to fingerboard and saw really good gains using a programme that could almost be said to be more focused on power endurance, rather than pure power. I think repeaters provide a really good power base, and with some supplementary power work, the gains magnify.
I would do three sessions a week, on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. Tuesday and Thursday were what I thought of as power, and Wednesday was power endurance.
The structure of the 'power' sessions were:
- One arm dead hangs on a 2cm rung
Sets of repeaters - small BM rung, 35 degree sloper, F3 and B3 on my 2cm rung
I added weight progressively, using the same weight for the whole session.
The power endurance sessions were based on a Ethan Pringle 20 minute hangboard session.
I'd be interested to hear any thoughts on this, because the gains were pretty good.
My current FB workout follows a similar pattern. I use a 15mm edge and do 1 rep max on that (1x5 sec hang). Followed by various weighted repeaters to build what I would call capacity.
I too view all repeaters as a type of endurance training (ANCAP?), every 3rd session I change the 1 rep max to 1 rep minimum edge and half the number of reps in the repeaters to 3 (doubling the added weight to reach fail at last second last rep). This I feel concentrates the capacity built by the 6 rep stuff more into power.
I follow this up with 2 weeks campusing and then 6 weeks sending.
For me, power is the ability to concentrate all your avaliable strengh into a 1 second burst, I think campusing (or limit bouldering) is the only way to do this and the FB work just builds the capacity to fuel this work.