UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: Wood FT on December 30, 2020, 06:58:08 pm
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or should that be 'Making the best of 2020'
Amid the chaotic world comes the annual solace of the 2nd best thread on UKbouldering (poo-gate takes that honour).
You have all done this before I'm sure but for new entrants, it's your top 3 lists for the year.
E.g. Top 3 boulder problems UK, Top 3 boulder problems abroad, Top 3 sport routes, Top three spankings :spank:
You can get creative as the abroad lists might be slim tickings this year...
As Fiend said that last year, there are still a few days left yet so feel free to hold back and mull it over..... Ali K didn't post his best of 2019 until May! I just wanted to get this thread set up as it always a great source for motivation in an otherwise gloomy ending to the year.
Cheers.
Past year inspiration:
Best of 2006 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6675.0.html)
Best of 2007 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8400)
Best of 2008 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10682)
Best of 2009 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13196)
Best of 2010 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16693)
Best of 2011 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19254)
Best of 2012 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21364)
Best of 2013 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23468.0)
Best of 2014 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25227.0.html)
Best of 2015 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26618.0.html)
Best of 2016 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27717.0.html)
Best of 2017 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28587.0.html)
Best of 2018 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29780.0.html)
Best of 2019 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30390.0.html)
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Ace. Been thinking about this a bit this week :) but was holding back in case an 8A tick came from out of the blue tomorrow :D
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Thanks for kicking things off Wood FT - I’ve been looking forward to this thread for a few days.
My fave three routes were my only three E5 onsights of the year - brilliant lines that were all the more special cos I really had to dig deep on them:
1. The Serpent King on the Lizard - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/vellan_head_area-1305/the_serpent_king-575900
A rarely (never?) repeated Littlejohn route. We went the week before but it was wet, so did the adjacent E3 (which is also good). Returning the following Saturday it was in the blazing sun. A strenuous well protected start with wide bridging and lay backing leads to an easier, bolder second half. 50 metres in one big pitch. Great stuff.
2. Cornish Roulette on the Lizard - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/choughs_ogo-28247/cornish_roulette-595083
After seeing via Facebook that we’d climbed The Serpent King, Pat himself messaged me to recommend this and it didn’t disappoint. A steady start, a hard roof that I only just scraped through, then sustained wall climbing above. Another 50 metre pitch, this time up a huge, black intimidating wall in the back of a wide zawn. A fab day out and good to get the second ascent.
3. Oceans at Maer Cliff (aka Northcott) - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/maer_cliff_aka_northcott_mouth-2437/oceans-69875
I’ve been looking at this for years, usually while pottering around with a boulder mat on the beach below, but never summoned up the courage to try it previously. A huge overlap of culm, which forms a truly striking line with climbing to match. Brilliant 3D udging up the groove that is sustained all the way. Marred only but the loose top that requires pulling out on a pre-placed rope.
Bring on 2021 and more Cornish esoterica!
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I did a few easy routes this year. Climbing with my main snowboarding partner from the mid 90s. He's not climbed for 20 years, so I got to rediscover a load of routes that I soloed back in the day, but this time on lead. Highlight of this partnership was...
Hells Bells at Millstone - what an amazing route for HS. As much gear as you want and a big variety of moves. I didn't want it to end.
Next best was Great Crack at Burbage North. Did this with Nai. Hadn't done it since the holly tree was removed and this proved to be a huge improvement. Lovely clean rock. Great climbing and gear.
Slightly different vibe was the direct on Now Or Never - Too Good To Be Forgotten (I think). I did it a few times on self top rope and one day a few weeks later just felt the need to solo it. It used to be a regular of mine, but now I use a different sequence at the bottom. Felt very comfortable. Nice feeling afterwards.
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Top three multipitch routes.
Hard to select just three as I almost only did good long routes this year. Thanks to spending a lot of time checking Mussato's book, Bodet/Petit's book and good suggestions from friends.
Patent Ochsner, 7a (6c oblig.) ED1, Wendenstöcke
First and only route in Wendenstöcke. Absolutely amazing place, but tricky weather and very expensive country. Unbelievably good rock. Like Céüse but taller and no polish. Mostly really secure climbing, except for some water runnels that I was shit at climbing, which is good as this route could have a few more bolts imho. Supposedly really well bolted for the area though... I would love to try Millenium or Caminando.
Ayahuasca, 7c (7a oblig.) ED3, Verdon.
As classy as Alix to its left or Série Limitée to its right. Lots of tufas, lots of jugs and lots of small crimps on the vertical parts. Alas, it also has a really hard move on pitch 8 (has to be close to 7a+ obligatory?) that takes down the quality a tiny smidge. Great day out. It would have been even more fun if I had been in better shape for steep climbing.
Les Premier pas d'Elsa, 7a+ (6c oblig.) ED2, Dévoluy (Les Gillards)
50 min from Céüse you can climb in cooler temps on a massive face all by yourself. Hard to choose one route at Gillards, as all three I did were equally brilliant. Selected this one more or less on random. Great day out. Very sustained at the level.
Top three sport routes.
Coliseum, 8a, Rodellar. Sika gone right. This has to be one of the better 8as in the world? Only Les Nouvelles plantation de Christ in Tarn can compete imho.
Pendant qu'il est encore trop tard, 8a/b, Capucin - Saint Antonin Noble Val. A Daniel Grimal route from 1991. On the same day as I did it I also fell on the very last move of the route after 35 m of relentless crimping on slightly overhanging rock. The best route I've done on the sector.
Vielles glories, 7c+, Rodellar. Endurance climbing doesn't get much better than this. First day of sport climbing in 2.5 months, after having been too busy for climbing most of the autumn, so that made it so much sweeter.
Top three edges for finger boarding.
20 mm, one armed with counterweight. Old but gold. Slightly uncomfortable for the skin on the pinkies though.
8 mm, both arms. Nice but not too nice.
One finger 12 mm no hang contraption. Great when not allowed overhead work, and no stretch on the skin on the upper back.
I did no other forms of climbing this year.
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Top three edges for finger boarding.
😂😂
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Top 3 boulder problem UK
Made in Sheffield, Houndkirk - 7A+
Great roof problem and makes for a decent summer grit project with the right conditions. Over two summers finally managed to suss out how to hit and hold the lip without using a left heel hook which seemed beyond me.
More Cheese Gromit, Burbage South 7A
I'd always dismissed this as a one pad solo boulder because of the landing. One day just decided to give a go and was pleasantly surprised with a quick tick. Lovely moves.
Knick Knack Paddywhack, Burbage South 7A
This one flatters to deceive. It feels super burly and the right hand side pull is a bit fierce. A problem I'd tried years ago and struggled on so really quite nice to come back and tick.
Top 3 1 boulder problem abroad
Movement Activated (droit), Manoury 7A
Tricky, knacky, balancy and a pop for the top.. lovely
Top 3 plat/s boulder problems
Le Plat de Noah, Le Segognole 7A
Popped over the road to have a look at this and it's not much to look at but with a name like that I thought I'd have a go.
Pas à Plats, Apremont Butted aux Dames 4+
A tricky little number with lovely holds. Great name.
La Théorie des Plats (retour), J.A. Martin 7A
Knocked off the R>L a couple of years ago and whilst there with some mates had a play on the retour. Bit tired and duly spanked. Still it's a good name.
Top 3 circuits
This year made an effort to follow some of the circuits from the guides and it's been great to go and search out stuff I'd probably not normally go and try.
BMC Stanage Far Right Heather circuit D
Great circuit of 30 problems. Took me a few goes to complete in a oner after spending too much time and effort working out a couple of the traverses. Nice to finish it and add Crimpy Roof Problem as a finisher. Repeated the circuit since and really enjoyed it.
Rockfax Froggatt Pinnacle Orange circuit AD+
Not really climbed on these boulders before. A short circuit with one really "interesting" problem. Lovely spot for a summer evening bimble around.
Rockfax Ramshaw Orange circuit D+
First trip to Ramshaw. Another short circuit with some great problems and what a finish. I think I climbed the Shark's Fin about 6 or 7 times and every one was brilliant.
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Top 3 boulder problem UK
Made in Sheffield, Houndkirk - 7A+
Great roof problem and makes for a decent summer grit project with the right conditions. Over two summers finally managed to suss out how to hit and hold the lip without using a left heel hook which seemed beyond me.
How does this work, Andy? Do you just flick for the lip and pick your feet up or can you keep your feet on elsewhere? Tried briefly post first lockdown and struggled a bit with the heel, been back twice since - once to find a queue and once to find it quite wet.
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Top 3 UK Sport Routes
El Rincon 8a (Dinbren) – Oddly not my first 8a (which I did a few weeks prior and one line to the right) but my second. This one felt more unlikely (harder) and I had half written it off as a project for next year. So when I got through the crux and held it together to the chains, it was even more satisfying.
Comedy 7c (Kilnsey) – Took longer than expected but every session was fun. Wanted to do this ever since I first got dragged to Kilnsey back when I was struggling to redpoint 6b+.
Fat Slags 7a+ (Frogsmouth) Is the rock good? No. Are the moves good? Not really. But after two months of lockdown this felt so good.
Top 3 Boulders
Deliverance 7B+ (Stanage) – I rarely boulder on grit and hadn’t even planned to be at Stanage the day I tried this after bailing from a wet Ramshaw. Rocked up at the Plantation for my first ever visit and oddly this was the only thing free. Not a bad piece of rock.
White Rider 7A+ (Rhiw Goch) – This was the first boulder I put on my Welsh to do list when I moved to Chester after seeing a cool photo somewhere. Finally got around to visiting and it didn’t disappoint.
Central Wall SS 7A (Braichmelyn) – Really enjoyed piecing this one together.
Top 3 Euro Sport Routes (not that many to pick from!)
Samsara 7a (Ambolo, Costa Blanca) – A contender for the best route I’ve ever done. Got a tip off about a newly developed sector up the coast from Calpe. Got there and our jaws hit the floor, 25-30 metres of 20 degree overhung immaculate flowstone. Only 4 lines there (6b+ - 7a+) when we went but they were all exceptional, although this was the pick of the bunch. Steep, juggy, pumpy fun from ground to chains. Awesome.
Arete Nord-Est 7a (Casse De Prelles, Ecrins) – A relatively newly developed line that I did on the first day of our summer trip to Briancon (which, looking back, was a stroke of genius). Fantastic steep arete climbing overlooking the valley.
Tout Arrive 7a (Falaise de Fessourier, Ecrins) – 40 metres of everything: slab, techy vert, steep jugs. Lovely.
Honourable Mention That I Didn’t Manage To Tick
Punishment Park 7c (Face Bouc, Ailefroide) – Oh my. One to go back for and one that I can’t forget. The best route I have ever been on? A 35-metre-long granite flake line tipped back at about 30 degrees set high on the side of an Alpine valley. If ever I’m thinking of sacking off an endurance session, I just think of this.
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Top 3 boulder problem UK
Made in Sheffield, Houndkirk - 7A+
Great roof problem and makes for a decent summer grit project with the right conditions. Over two summers finally managed to suss out how to hit and hold the lip without using a left heel hook which seemed beyond me.
How does this work, Andy? Do you just flick for the lip and pick your feet up or can you keep your feet on elsewhere? Tried briefly post first lockdown and struggled a bit with the heel, been back twice since - once to find a queue and once to find it quite wet.
Yep pretty much a flick for the lip and pick your feet up. A slightly lower profile mat helped reduce the dab potential.
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Prepared well in advance....
Top 3 Trad:
Mantrap, Gogarth - A double injury consolation prize in an abandoned Autumn, but one to treasure. Properly lovely Type 1 ledge-shuffling fun, or maybe Type 0 if that's what looking up at the monstrously majestic magnificence of Mousetrap Zawn with anticipatory glee counts as.
Lady Of Satan, Avon Gorge - Very much a kindred spirit with the above, despite a somewhat different location and being a mere single pitch, albeit one packed full of the smile-raising curios and qualities one desires. The first adventurous shuffle I'd done for a while and quite life-affirming.
Crich Almighty, Intake Quarry - Also a kindred spirit. That day I chatted to Mick Fowler at the crag, got committed on an usually dodgy E3 that I only continued up because Mick was nearby and I couldn't let the side down, and then finished off with what turned out to be an Almighty romp up steep and protectable cracks arching over to a brilliant belay ledge on the crest of this possibly temporary buttress.
Top 3 Sport OS / Flash:
Prickly Heat, Pinfold Crag - I christened August "A Muerte Month" which lasted exactly two weeks before fucking my knee, elbow, and rechristening it "Fuck this cunting shit month". But it started well with a lovely day up at Pinfold, Andy F was gracious enough to put the clips in this route and confirm it was a total sandbag, whilst I managed to avoid falling off any of the multiple cruxes despite myself. Walking back down was possibly the most chilled and calm I've felt all year.
What's Going On, Pinfold - The other end of the Pinfold day and the other end of the challenge spectrum. Delightful and elegant off-vertical teetering in a fine position with the usual Pinfold exposure, we both agreed this was a really charming and underrated route.
This Is Not A Drill, Darlton Quarry - A diamond amongst the very rough, this gem nestles amongst a wasteland of choss that makes Horseshit look half-tolerable. And one of the many nice things, after blasting through the techy, cranky, blind, "think quickly" crux, you get a lovely little rest niche to turn around, wriggle your toes and admire that choss from the sanctuary of a good route.
Top 3 Sport Rotpunkt:
Lightweight, Two Tier - Halycon days lounging on the flat dry grass, watching the rain tinkle down onto the bubbling Wye, chatting geekiness with Stone and Haydyn. And lying awake the night before, running over the fantastic first half of this route in my mind, taking in the pure pleasure of movement.
The Squealer, Lorry Park Quarry - 12 years after my first dabbling with redpointing with Duncan Disorderly in the grotty summer of '08, we both returned for a rematch. One session scraping the moves in mediocre connies, and another session to do it in crisp breezy conditions. A very rare occasion of a redpoint feeling smooth and calm instead of a still-desperate battle.
Coming Up For Air, Moat Buttress - The start of my redpointing season at the ever lovely Moat. Great climbing that perfectly suits me, the redpoint was good, but blowing the final teeter and taking a good fall on the first session was even better.
Top 3 Bloques:
Yate's Layaway, Harmer's Wood - a Fatneck pro-tip 2 days before the first fucking lockdown. Much easier than the Harmer's V4s, and very good, what an elegant line.
AT148MP, Stanage Plantation - the first vaguely tricky thing I did after knee recovery and elbow stabilising. Mint connies at the Plantation and as always lovely to be above and distant from the Zippy's dabtrain bellends, on this elegant mezzanine with this eliminate and appallingly-named but cool, underrated, cranky teetering frictional wall problem.
Short Problem, Blackwell Dale - Why did I enjoy this given how awful lime bouldering is?? Maybe that it's an actual line of least resistance with an obvious start and finish. Maybe because it's the equal hardest lime problem I've done and required a good battle. But mostly because I went there in the pissing rain and it was bone dry....
Top 3 Abroad:
Fuck off.
Top 3 Nu Stuff:
Nope.
Top 3 Spankings:
Actually obeying the first lockdown unlike half the other cunts around.
Twatting my knee and elbow in quick succession whilst at peak fitness.
Digestion still minorly but persistently cunted.
Top 3 Learnings:
I can, theoretically, come back from the bleakest pit of non-climbingness after a long time off, and with a suitably steady / gentle path, regain my normal form.
Pushing sport climbing is good enough to give me confidence / fitness for trad, assuming it's done in the right way (mixing redpointing, onsighting, and lots of falling practise).
Drop knees are stupid. Hammering the fingerboard straight after getting a lower limb injury is even more stupid. Keeping pushing at wall and gym with a tweaky elbow is really stupid.
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Had a surprisingly good year considering I didn't climb outside till the end of July, taking a month off work in the summer really helped. Managed to get psyched on sport and trad. climbing again having just been bouldering outside irregularly for the past few years. Looking forward to 2021 and hoping I can maintain the psyche.
Top trips
Weekend in Pembroke. Did a bunch of the easier classic's I'd not done before including Chimes of Freedom and Riders on the Storm. Dropped the ropes in the sea, shat myself on some hanging belays - perfect.
A couple of trips to Portland to meet up with Duncan. Great company as ever and on the last one I climbed Road Rage at Cheyne Weares which was amazing, especially considering how hard 6b had felt 4 weeks prior. Went and climbed Temporary Lifestyle afterwards, a great easy DWS.
Had a stag do to attend in Oxfordshire which didn't start till midday, so naturally I woke up at 6am, drove 3hrs to Biblin's Cave and did the excellent Pop for the Top and The Bulge, was all packed up by 10am, and the stag do was quite fun too.
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Bit of a lean year - no climbing over lockdown 1, then took me a while to get comfortable with the idea of climbing on a rope again. Think I managed two or three trips out before the lime conditions meant it was back to bouldering again. Saved by the addition of a shed board (thanks to highrepute for joiner/carpenter recommendation).
Top 3 1 routes, UK
Main Motor Mile, Cowdale 7a+ - I remember looking up at the crag from the road some years ago on the way to Staden and thinking I should check it out at some point. Was pleasantly surprised by the climbing, less so by my (lack of) fitness for anything more than 5 moves long.
Top 3 boulder problems, UK
Chiggers with Attitude, Lees Bottom 7A+ - To be honest, I'd have tried this just for the name but also a good problem.
Goose Grease LH/Sweet Cheeks, Lees Bottom 7A - Just a link-up, but a pleasant way to climb that bit of wall. Avoids the snatchy start of Toit du Cul de Lees and the finish of Goose Grease (as the undercut was hanging off) to give a nice series of moves. Not sure it deserves it's own identity, but someone had claimed it as Sweet Cheeks on UKC.
Cock o' the Rock, Stanage 6/7 something - Who knows what grade it is, but it's a really nice move pulling on with left hand on the sloper and left foot on the lip. I should go back and try from lower.
Top 3 shuffles, UK
Cripple's Crab, Freda's Buttress 7A+ - Lovely place to be of a summer evening.
My Little Conie, Conies Dale 7A+ - Enjoyable afternoon out with a good mate. Possibly the first time I climbed with anyone post-lockdown and nice to get back to Conies again. Picked this one at random from a number of similar link-ups and shuffles we did on the same day which were all pleasant.
Zippatricks/Beach Bum, Secret Garden 7A - Don't think I'd ever done the harder finish to this before?
Top 3 2 "new" problems, UK
Dancing Man Indirect, Smallfield 7A/+ - Dancing Man LH into Smallfield Lip.
Dancing Man Superindirect, Smallfield 7A/+ - Reverse of Boning Technology into Lager Lout to finish along Smallfield Lip.
Probably not new as they're relatively obvious, but Dancing Man Indirect is really worthwhile and one of the nicest sequences of moves in the roof IMHO. Incidentally, having had a couple of visits here this year, I wonder if the problems as currently described on UKC/Peakbouldering are a bit out when compared to Mike/Tony's originals - RHS of the roof makes sense, but LHS less so. This may well be why their grades seem a bit overcooked as I think what they call Lager Lout is what we now call Dancing Man LH Direct and what we/UKC call Lager Lout is what they called Boozed Up.
Top 3 board problems, my shed
Stabbsy Five Bellies (Blue Feet) 6B+ - First long term project, probably took a few sessions in the end. The other problem I set on the same day is still holding out and may even reach the heady heights of board 6C+.
Easy Come, Easy Go (Wood Domes) 6B - Hardest problem I've managed on the shit wood domes.
Power Pinch LH (Blue Feet) 6B+/C - Last new problem of the year, unless I manage anything today. Totally basic, but really satisfying.
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Been looking forward to this, some good posts already, keep them coming! On balance this wasn't a bad year for climbing considering I couldn't get going at all until May. Everything UK based as I never managed to escape.
Top 3 Malham routes
Spent a good chunk of the summer and autumn here so seems fair to give it proportionate exposure.
GBH the first hard route of the year, managed on the last day of a week long trip to Yorkshire in the van. Amazing pumpy climbing with barely a pulldown hold on it.
Mighty Fine Ass Was really impressed by this. After binning it one move from the end it felt like a path in mint conditions the next session. Should get way more traffic as it isnt too bad for the grade either.
Overnite Sensation A 4 star experience after nearly falling off about 5 times on the lower wall. A marginal kneebar allowed me to get my breath back and top felt pleasingly steady. Clearly the kneebar tames this and probably makes it soft 8a+ but still satisfying.
Top 3 routes everywhere else
Actually did a reasonable amount of sport climbing in other places as well this year so plenty to choose from.
The Sea Is A Brown Paper Bag, Chee Dale absolutely nails but brilliant as well. Brutal technical crimping into a butch middle and extremely fluffable top sequence. Took several trips up there to sort it out but eventually did it the first time through the lower wall. Would have liked to do Vision next door but it was getting so hot there we sacked it off.
The Boltest, Long Tor had to settle for a variation start after getting shut down on the slab by my T rex reach, but the upper wall on this is so good. One of the best 7cs in the Peak.
Staying Power, Yew Cogar a brilliant day down there doing Cruisin, this and Devils Grip, but this was easily the best. The initial flake looks piss but really makes you work. The headwall is tough to onsight but steady when you know where the holds are. Lovely crozzly rough rock all the way; ace.
Top 5 boulder problems
A reasonable amount of bouldering this year prior to lockdown 1 and in the autumn, so have allowed myself 5.
West Side Story, Burbage
A brilliant zen experience where every move felt piss after getting closer and closer during the session. Climbed the top wall in about 3 seconds to avoid thinking too much. The best problem in the peak I've done, possibly the best full stop.
Small Is Beautiful, Burbage The last problem prior to lockdown but what a beauty, a John Allen masterpiece. Took a while to unlock the starting moves before I took some scary spills from the top break. Retreated to fight another day and ticked it swiftly the next week with spotters nearby. One of the best of its grade anywhere.
Squelch, Torridon This felt like a consolation prize after not doing Malcs but was still an excellent problem in its own right, especially from the sit. Amazing line, amazing movement, scary top out. Mega.
Hurry on Sundown, Baslow Toss up between this and Balls Test but this just squeaks it by virtue of being the better line. Gritstone distilled and better than Flatworld.
My Apple, Rowtor a Christmas Eve tick, by myself. I had only intended to suss it out for another day but the initial section was easier than expected and I was quickly falling/bailing from the move onto the slab. After considering my options I fetched another pad from the car and went all in on the next go. With a massive effort I got my feet onto the slab and wobbled my way to the top with the pads in completely the wrong place. A massive wave of relief having topped out; a 5 star experience! Quality problem, probably a bit easier for the short and well worth seeking out.
Top 3 spankings
Some good contenders here that are still winding me up today!
Malcs Arete, Torridon I really should have done this but just didn't have the guns after a summer sport climbing. Optimistic it will go swiftly next visit but that top move is hard. With the sun setting on the last day of the trip I revved up for the hail mary go, with Andy E and 36C giving moral support. Pulled on ready to give it the beans and binned the first move straight into the bog. You have to know when you're beaten!
RnP, Cornice Got through the start of this once at the end of a session and dropped it 2 moves from the rest, completely powered out. Inevitably it got wet and that was it for the season. Another one that a lack of bouldering power held me back on. I would have sacked it but was sucked in by the upper wall, which is probably 7c+ and has some amazing moves on it. One for the future.
Vision of Loveliness, Chee Dale
Only a few goes at this but found it really hard despite enjoying the moves. A few return visits but made no headway and went backwards if anything.
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I did very little climbing this year, but still managed a few good days and did a few really good routes.
Top 3 trad routes
Very little to choose from, but a few of real quality. I had a trip to Lewis at the end of July with unreliable weather, but we climbed every day. Hard to choose the best of them.
The Painted Wall, Mangersta
I interviewed Cubby at the start of the year. He made the first ascent of this route the week I was born. It's a great setting in the zawn with several good routes on this face. This one gets E4, and seemed to have a reputation for being bold. The climbing is very steady and there's plenty of small gear, and some bigger pieces. I'd wanted to climb this one for years and it was great to be able to send Cubby a pic afterwards too.
C Route, Dow crag
Dragged So up this as part of our training for the Cuillin Ridge (which didn't happen). Had the route to ourselves, quite lucky given how busy the Lakes was. Met a chap on the top who was walking around holding his pants in the breeze, he'd been for an impromptu swim and was trying to dry them out. He looked so happy to be out on the hill, if a little embarrassed to be caught.
Neptune, Dalbeg
I seconded this one. A wonderful piece of rock, a shame that a few wet streaks (and a lack of climbing fitness) meant we didn't try any of the other routes on the face.
Top 3 sport routes
I don't think I can justify these! I did a bit of sport climbing. A quick hit at Moy Rock on the way back from Lewis was probably the highlight. I had a muddy weekend at the Cuttings and did a few local routes since moving to Edinburgh, they were ok.
Top 3 bouldering
I don't think I could name many problems I did this year except Teck Crack. I had a great day on the Spring Boulders in May, I'd somehow avoided them before. Great easy problems and a few scrittly scares - this was the first trip out after lockdown as a birthday treat. I spent some time in the Churnet too, and had a lot of fun there, having only visited once before.
Top 3 spankings
I tried Want Out at the Cuttings years ago and didn't get it. We didn't have great conditions or fitness for the only trip to Portland of the year, but I really should have put this to bed.
I had a day out at Hen Cloud before moving north. Didn't take enough clothes and was freezing all day. Couldn't feel my hands and wasn't fit/confident for grit at any rate and got spanked by Bachelor's Left Hand.
Fickle Finger of Fate. I actually did all of the hard climbing after a few goes, and felt good, if a little surprised, but I totally bottled the topout and got my mate to drop a rope. I was glad!
Top 3 Life
With climbing being curtailed my real top 3 this year is a bit different.
We had a wonderful 5 days sea kayaking around Applecross and Raasay at the end of September. We learned new skills, saw dolphins, porpoise, sea eagles, some great fossils and more. Our final day was spent paddling across one of the deepest sounds in Scotland in low mist, which was magical, just that hint of blue sky above and quickly feeling completely isolated until we sighted the run down the coast back to Applecross.
Bla Bheinn traverse We'd hoped to do at least part of the Cuillin Ridge, but we only had a 1 day weather window. So we did this traverse, which is a brilliant day out and was a proper hard-to-escape mountaineering adventure for SO, who is gaining confidence scrambling. I think the ridge would have been too much to be enjoyable for her at this stage, so this was a good stepping stone.
Finally accessing counselling. I've been in (mostly out) of the system for a few years trying to get a meaningful intervention for anxiety issues. A few events at the end of the summer pushed me to do it privately, despite the cost and insecure income on my part. It's been a worthwhile investment, even if it left me pretty broken for the first month or so, and it's begun a fairly lengthy process of untangling the major from the minor which can hopefully continue in 2021.
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Gonna have to be creative as its been a weird year, limited access and a lot of hoovering / tidying up before the next instalment of NWB.
I've not been on a rope at all..
5 Best new boulder experiences.
Not nessarily the best boulders (need repeats to determine that)
1. Trev's last wave at Marchlyn.
A bloc I've ignored for several years turned out to be ace, and climbed in memory of a friend who passed on this year.
2. Waiting for Vizzini at Clegir
A highball arete I've known about for years but the landing was dog dirt. With the clegir resurgence in lockdown I was keen not to lose it to a young buck (or Panton) so built a fun patio, and borrowed pads from the local mob.
3. My Personal Space Rocket on Fron Llwyd.
Just when all my esoteric spaces were invaded, I visited someone else's and found this soaring highball grit arete, the best thing is it's only 6A!
4. Seamus Low Start at Marchlyn
Finally breached the steepness on the Marchlyn super boulder. Confirmed at 7A+, and sort of closing a chapter up there.
5. Arrietty at Ymyl Gwyn.
Opening a new chapter at a new spot, one that will work best with friends. A lovely highball arete.
3 Best adventures in sillyness
1. Reopening the tunnel between filmset and Gideon, a decade after I last did it. Lots digging and trundling.
2. Moving a massive boulder using a small crowbar, a car jack and a brain. Been blocking the end of one of my esoteric boulders since I developed it a decade ago. Finally managed to get a scheme together to shift it.
3. Getting myself off the mountain after crocking myself on a highball.
Not everyones idea of fun, but it involved a lot of ingenuity, determination and no third party.
This also counts as this year's spanking.
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Crap year for climbing.
Top 5 boulders: (all at Birkrigg Quarry, Ulverston).
1) L-R Traverse
2) R-L Traverse (climbs very different)
3) L-R-L Traverse (all the experiences)
4) L-R-L-R-L Traverse (was novel)
5) L - halfway right - up - all the way right - down - halfway left - up - all the way left (to the start). A project of one of the locals which I was happy to get done before getting injured and then not climbing since.
Did (I think) one sport route at Masson Lees. Really nice 6C before injuring myself on something a little harder.
Went on a lovely 3 day canoe trip too which was great fun. Nice to do something a little different.
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Not a bad year considering all things.
Top 5 boulders
Superbloc (8A+), Gardoms- got to be one of the best 'hard' boulders in the UK. Went relatively quickly which was both a surprise and a relief.
Vault (8B), Hartland- had a lovely family holiday to Cornwall. Managed to get out for quite a few, half day boulder sessions (which I guess tidal bouldering is quite good for). First 8B in a session, probably means it is not.
Master of stone (8A+/B) Hepburn- Great rock quality and climbing on this. Again went pretty quickly which was nice.
Colonel Hathi (8A+)- Swarth Beck- awesome board style climbing on a really steep face. Once I figured out what a 'Clock' move was, it all came together. I did the cop out right exit as I was on my own, so keen to return for the full line and Aidan's new addition.
Before the rain (8A+/B)- Cloughton- little known venue on the east coast of Yorkshire (probably better known for its point break). The infamous 'wedged block project' first climbed by Mike Adams, randomly remembered about it on a family visit to the east coast. Another surprise quick one.
Top 5 sport routes
I had big plans to hit the sport climbing hard this year as I had no summer bouldering trips planned, but after my second session at Hollywood bowl, I went to Gisburn and feel off my mountain bike and ended up doing a grade 2/3 shoulder separation. I did however do illywacker 4 weeks after as I said I would to Ben on the way to A&E. Probably a bad idea. Managed to get back climbing relatively hard after 6-8 weeks. Lucky.
Top spankings
After many years off a mountain bike, I decided I would buy one during lockdown, third time out, 200m from the carpark I fell off and broke my shoulder. Quite funny in retrospect.
Cypher, the saga continues. God I find it hard, really spanny, so do slightly different beta to the norm. I did have an ever so close go today, so maybe I can start 2021 off with a bang.
Top life success
Became a father in Jan. Was all a bit stressful as my wife got diagnosed with ICP in early Jan, so the little one came a bit early and was very small. Been a challenging year not being able to see grandparents for large parts of the year. But what an amazing year, she is awesome.
Finished my Masters in Flood risk and coastal management and got a distinction. Pretty proud of this, did it over three years while working full time. I am also quite dyslexic and not very academic, so always struggled with education. (I also finished my final assignment in the hospital, nightmare)
Started a new job in April working for the National Rivers Trust. Bizarre time to start a new job, but really loving the work. Leading on a project looking at establishing the first of its kind ecosystem service market at a catchment scale using green and social investment. If it works, it could really provide a solution to funding nature recovery at the scale and pace that is required. Really rewarding working on something that could truly make a difference.
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My climbing year was characterised by a handful of great days out on routes I really enjoyed, but mostly didn’t tick, and I’m totally fine with that.
Top three spankings
Putting this top, because they were the better routes/experiences. All of these were stamina/power endurance based, which I lacked. All were probably also effected by weight. My lowest weight this year was about 5kg heavier than my lowest in 2019, and I maintained it for only the shortest period of time (:spank:). With that said and done, trying these routes brought me the most joy and were the most inspirational. Got me back to enjoying a process without knowing if it would ever result in ‘success’ and pulling moves for the sheer fun of it.
Tennessee 7c
A dream route for me. One of the better Portland 7cs. A route that would be good if it was somewhere else, and unlike the style of the popular crags. Sustained, overhanging, big moves on big holds, but with two cool, techyish boulder problem cruxes. I was really pleased to do every move on this on my first attempt. I feel like this one would have gone with more time, but conditions weren’t often on my side (its soaked without the right wind and sun), and the window of opportunity to get it done within the tides isn’t long. All that added to the experience like having to bail at the last minute off the route and escape from the incoming sea. One of my best climbing days.
Zinc Oxide Mountain 7b+
An ongoing battle, and again, no where near the fitness. But it did seem doable if form at some point coincides with a visit. I still enjoy this route every time I reacquaint myself with it. So far I’ve yet to become frustrated and each time I fail I’m happy that I get to come back.
Road Rage 7b+
One session on this (I think) which was my second session in total, separated by a number of years. Also fantastic, something well within my potential when I get it together. Another great day out meeting new people (socially distanced at a time when local cases were at their lowest). Watching another climber on Illusions from the top and seeing how amazing the moves on that looked was worth it in its own right!
Top three sport routes
A short list of actual ticks above 7a. 5 in total. 2018 was worse, but 2019 was 8a year, so I had hoped to do a bit better! However....
England’s Dreaming 7a+
Took me far too many goes, quite incompetent! One move I kept falling off even though it wasn’t that hard. Hannah pulled off an awesome on sight. Great movements, and again, my style. On the red point I pulled so hard that the tip of my left index finger went numb for several days, but it got the job done.
Psychosomatic Addict 7a+
A left over from another year! Again several goes to get it finished before realising that there was an incredibly easy sequence at the top that I had totally missed. Every day is a school day.
Spanner Eyes 7b
The only thing I did quickly. Very soft, but I needed the encouragement.
Top three one boulders
Way more sessions than sends!
More days that were good just for being out, pandemic was a chance to visit less popular crags.
Cavity Search 7A+
The only thing from my the list of problems I wrote at the start of the year that I got done! This has been a 4 year on off battle, with a number of sessions unable to do the moves. Finally all came together and went first go one day in September. Excellent problem, cut loose on a mono in a roof. Want more could you want? I still think its pretty stiff for the grade!
Top three life (Last but not least)
1. Having a baby in October. Basically the best thing ever. She’s great.
2. Watching an incredible sunset on Portland in summer after a full day climbing and swimming in the sea.
3. Seeing everyone pull together at work during the height of covid. As hard as it was at times in PPE in the heat, was good to be able to do something.
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Counted back and I had 49 days on rock this year which was more than I had thought. Quite a number of these were in horrendous conditions during the summer but I still feel fortunate to have had the opportunity. No trips abroad this year, and no roped climbing of any sort as usual!
Short on volume and difficulty of ascents this year, but some quality to make up for it.
Top Boulders UK
Severus Snape, Back Bowden. Last outdoor session before most of us decided it was a bad idea shortly before the first lockdown started. Great climbing on good spaced holds, glad I'm not any shorter! The sort of thing Fiend would write off as indoor climbing nonsense :)
Texas Hold 'Em, Trowbarrow. Got stuck into the S Lakes lime after lockdown easing, lots of 6AM starts to try and get some half decent connies, but still climbing in hot and humid weather most of the time. Day I did this one I was finished by 9am! Great problem for any rock type not just limestone and certainly the best I have done in the South Lakes.
Bull Wrangler, Attermire. Finally got around to checking out Attermire this summer after Will going a couple of years before and noting the potential. Great spot in a beautiful setting. I thought this one was better than its neighbour with nicer holds and more horizontal climbing. Matador it the plum line of the crag and one of the best harder lime problems I've seen. Shame about all the cow poo and mud, it was nice early season when it was completely dry underfoot!
Occam's Razor, Honister. Everything I look for in a lakes venue, classic problem in a beautiful location off the beaten track so you don't have to deal with any tourists. The lack of indoor climbing or board climbing left me with very poor session fitness this year, so everything has been a bit of a race against the clock. Was happy to pull this one together before the tank was empty, look forward to another day up there art some point trying the harder variation. ALs collected a pad full of various car trim from the scree around the boulders, not sure how fast the crash must have been for the debris to end up there!
The Terrace, Portland. Good rock, beautiful setting, great climbing, and a beach 10 minutes away for the family to go to. I thought Portland had great potential for a family holiday destination, we were staying in W Dorset so only had a few days over there.
Top Spankings
Anything hard on Portland. Confirmation for me (if any was needed) that Huffy is a total beast.
Matador, Attermire. After taking the piss out of Will for falling off the easy bit a the end of Bull Rider 2 years ago, I fell off Matador in exactly the same spot. Karma is a bitch. Then it rained, almost constantly.
Top Stupid training things that aren't any good for climbing
Lockdown left a lot of time for messing around in the garage which is too low to build a wall. I still felt fortunate to have the space, several fingerboards and a lot of iron.
32 kg Kettlebell Snatch. Right hand only, left hand lagging behind!
2.4x BW Deadlift. Equalled a previous PB but 2 kg lighter bodyweight, didn't quite manage to add any more weight to the bar as I found that heavy deadlift sessions would ruin any other sort of training for at least a couple of days, so I kept it lighter after that and worked on speed.
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Happy New Year everyone. Lots of great posts already :icon_beerchug:
Top 5 Boulders Grit
- Various on Demon Wall Roof; I had a nice little run in January & February just going up and ticking off things on here that had always eluded me previously, including Stu's Roof, Bruno's Roof and, hardest boulder of the year, Earocist. Came out of it feeling really fit and strong, only for life and lockdown to ruin things.
- Ian's Roof; absolute nemesis problem finally conquered. I lived 10 mins away from Woodhouse Scar for 18 months, and had lots of sessions, falling off the end loads of times. Moved away and left it for a year, then came back and managed to smash it out in a couple of hours, utilising that fitness from Demon Wall Roof. Great feeling of progression.
- Small is Beautiful; just a great problem on a lovely day.
- The Fox; one of Almscliff's best lines? Should really see more attention. Done on a warm but wonderful day in February. I'd gone to try to finish Earocist but as it was so warm I had to wait until the sun went. In the meantime there was a big pad party down at the Virgin boulder (remember when those were still a thing?!), so I got involved to do this, The Gypsy, Gypus and The Lady. Good times.
- Karjala; further evidence that Crookrise is Yorkshire's best crag. Great to flash it having saved it for such a long time.
Top 5 Days / Boulders Rest of UK
- Stella; had been wanting to visit Lad Stones for ages. Finally made it happen on my own, which made it a pretty scary experience, so it felt great to do this in a few goes.
- Once Upon a Time in the West Sit; on one of the few team days out of the year, which was great in itself. Good weather made it extra enjoyable, and it was even better to just scrape up this by the skin of my teeth at the end of the day, fully cutting loose at the top, having struggled on the top moves earlier.
- Coconutter & Atom Smasher Sit; had a brilliant first visit to Gouther with Yetix. I'd wanted to go for ages, and somehow managed to get there on an absolutely perfect day in November. We had the place to ourselves, I felt good, the weather was mint, and I somehow managed to pretty much climb everything I wanted to do there, including these two stunners.
- Severus Snape & Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy; both really nice markers of progression, in slightly different ways. Last weekend before first lockdown, Severus Snape was one I'd looked at years ago, when it was way above my level, and I couldn't for the life of me work out how it was even possible. Did it in a handful of goes in the end. Meanwhile I'd tried Hitchhiker's a couple of years ago and been completely shut down, despite 7A+ normally being well within my capabilities. Lots of board climbing later and again it went in a few goes. Perfect day at the crag too.
Top 5 Sport
- Smooth Torquer; after saying I should try sport climbing for years, 2020 was the one, and this was the first route I'd ever tied in for, so it was nice to wobble my way to the top on the flash. Probably couldn't have picked a better first route for a heinously unfit boulderer.
- WYSIWYG; tried this same day as ST and it felt a lot harder, then had another session shortly after and, although I did all the moves, I couldn't quite imagine stringing them all together. Happily went away and did some training, came back in a month or so and it felt like a different route, although the finish was still pretty close to the wire!
- The Jim Grin; just a great route at a great crag. Spent some thoroughly enjoyable days and evenings here over late summer. Perfect crag for a boulderer to get going with sport climbing. Notable because my first go up it was a total shambles, but next go, knowing where the holds were, it all went pretty smoothly.
- Haslam; another banger, with a cool hard crux move and great, flowy climbing lower down.
- Cold Turkey; not as good as the others but notable because I basically fell up it on my 2nd go, last go of the day, knackered and not really sure how I was still holding on I was so pumped.
Top Spankings
- Life in general; pretty much everything that could go wrong, did, the only exception being moving house to a great place.
- Pinch 32 Sit; so, so close in a couple of sessions just before first lockdown. Still haven't been back. High on the list for the next month given it's so close.
- Low Rider; why can I not just go back to things quickly?! Two sessions in January, dropped it at the break on my best link. Still haven't been back. At least I've written down my beta now.
- Launch Control; everyone else seems to piss this but I find it absolutely nails. Three sessions this year, two in previous years, and no tick.
Top walks with my partner
- Blencathra; on an utterly perfect day in Summer, with the place bizarrely quiet.
- Snowdon; cold and soaked to the skin in August, but loads of (type 2) fun.
- Whernside; great way to spend Christmas Day, freezing cold and only saw a handful of other people out.
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Great posts already.
Top three sport routes:
Ouijaboard, Cheedale Cornice 8a
I had written this route off as nasty in the past. Watching a better climber than I use a rather flamboyant sequence got me interested again. A very cool route with not a single wasted move from floor to top. I fell from the chains the go before I did it and found myself able to laugh about it which was refreshing!
Vision of Loveliness, Upper Two-Tier, 7c+
A lovely evening on the ledge with a good friend on a gem of glued-up Peak limestone. I had been extolling the Cedric Lachat raspberry blowing technique and was so wasted on the 5th go, that we just shouted at each other in ‘French’. The route has a memorable ‘bowl-over’ move after a small traverse and felt fantastic to reel it back in after a wild slap. Worth the abseil approach.
Orange Sunshine, Two-Tier, 7c+
I think this is my first Jerry Moffatt route? Small, powerful and perfectly formed. ‘That’s just like me’ I kept repeating to myself, trying to follow Jerry’s guidance from Mastermind. It isn’t like me but it did help to back myself on routes more, with a relatively quick ascent (for me) being a product of that self-talk.
Top three Frankenjura sport routes:
Dala, Obere Schlossbergwände, 7b
When the going gets tough…. find something steep and juggy. Climbed with dripping sweat stinging my eyes. Off at the chains onsight after a momentous 3-bolt battle…
Isolation, Grüne Hölle, 7a
The first route out of the van and absolutely buzzing to be in the ‘jura jumping between pockets. A highpoint it would later appear!
Verlobungsweg, Weissenstein, 6a+
‘Yeah, I climbed a few Gullich routes…’ even with this lower grade route you could feel the measure of the man. Lucky bar stewards lording it up around the Frankenjura putting up first ascent classics across every grade.
Top three boulder problems:
Woolly Mammoth Stand, Hollin Hill, 7A+
The first venue after lockdown, I ran to the crag I was so excited. A one move wonder on a slightly suspect patch of mag-lime but this may as well have been Ceuse for me at the time. Saw a Bullfinch on the way out. Very, very happy.
Punker Bunker, Stoney Middleton, 7A+
I was always shit in Tom’s Roof, I’m still shit but slightly less shit now. If you can have fun in here you’re alright by me.
White Rabbit, Hueco Boulder, 6C
Climbed in what will now be known as the BC period again (before covid). I’ve been going to mag-lime venues for years but over the winter started going to more esoteric venues and the Mad Max vibe of this area provides a full experience in particular.
Top three Deep Water Solos:
Manilow Magic, Berry Head, 7b+
He strikes again. Ken Palmer Magic. Wonderful flowstone with a crux at the top tucked away in Terminal Zawn. After some shoulder slapping the sequence naturally takes you left at the top which makes the grade a bit of a giveaway, Ken may have quested on higher up and right. Climbed with a few friends I hadn’t seen in a long time.
Chrome Bum, BH, 6b+
A repeat but this is still the best section of rock on one of the best faces of rock I have ever climbed. 15m or so up stretching up for a flowstone side-pull, pure excitement.
Up Yer Bum, BH, 6b+
Easier partner to Manilow in the same style.
Top three Rugby matches:
All Blacks Vs Australia, Bledisloe 1
Fantastic match that went on 10 minutes after the whistle, loads of drama and stand out performances. Liquid Rugby.
Exeter Chiefs vs Racing 92, Heineken Cup Final
I love watching Racing 92 play but it was a real treat to watch the Chiefs grind them down and achieve the double.
Argentina vs All Blacks
Pure passion, lots of tears. Not as good a game as Japan vs South Africa RWC '15 but a similar passion.
Top three Spankings:
GBH, Malham, 8a+
Another year. Off the back of a successful Peak Lime summer, I started going back to Yorkshire with confidence. Started well, feeling stronger and really enjoying the movement again. Repeatedly falling in the same position, and a slightly different scene at Malham, started to kill my motivation and even with a change to more reliable beta I felt like I was carrying on for the wrong reasons finding excuses to climb on something else. I will approach it differently when I head up next time (creep up on it from the side?)
The Frankenjura.
I was very lucky to get away for a short and very hot trip at the end of July, with a predictable spanking on anything I tried above 7b. Absolute fell in love with the place. My least successful trip since Buoux but I can’t wait to go back.
Bouldering
Realistically, I’m not going to achieve my local sport goals if I don’t raise my bouldering grade by at least two grades. I will dedicate more time to it this year. Anyone selling a fan and a ladder?
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Liking the love for Cheedale there.
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I always love reading these. Thanks to everyone who puts the effort in to write them.
For me 2020 was a year so split between the absolutely terrible (my parents’ health and the obvious global situation) and the really pretty good (great home & work situation, great family news for some of my oldest mates, getting hitched myself a fortnight ago :wub:) that the middling stuff like not being able to travel etc. paled into insignificance. Climbing was in fact squarely in the good category as I think I’m quite easily pleased, there are challenges everywhere for someone of my locale and current modest abilities and most importantly my oldest and most trusted climbing partner has been in a very similar situation to me so both available and very psyched to climb loads.
I only did one very specific type of climbing so just two Top Fives. It’s all straight punter shit so bear with me.
Top Peak Grit Trad routes
Legacy, Ashop Edge, Kinder In many ways this is the best crag on grit (in many ways it absolutely isn’t but on the right day those ways don’t matter at all) and this is one of its best routes. On our first time there my partner and I decided that on our next visit we’d be good enough to do this- little did we know that day would be almost 9 years into the future. Saw that giant bird very close up too.
Lyons Corner House, Millstone Myself and Slab Happy were on a mission to have a big day at Millstone this autumn but got thwarted every time- first time we did the classic escape-to-Lawrencefield-in-the-face-of-a-Baltic-gale (not before Slab had led one of the most windblown routes on the crag though), second time the whole place was soaking wet and the third the dodgy SMS reception in my flat led to Slab standing alone in the Surprise car park for hours. :sorry: Fourth time lucky I wasted no time in doing this straight off- it’s one of those amazing grit routes that has an obviously straightforward solution you can see from the ground that turns out to be nothing of the sort when you try to perform it. Absolutely exhilarating climbing and the rest of the days dreadful time-management left us loads to go back for this spring. :lol:
Cioch Crack, Curbar I’ve chosen this more as a representative route of the crag than anything else- my mate lives near Matlock and early in the summer we discovered that the crag parking that’s equidistant from our homes is those bays near Trackside. Cue weekly (at least) afterwork visits ticking off gradually harder routes at all sorts of places along the edge that I hadn’t been to before, getting a lot better at climbing (the motto “if we can climb this grade at Curbar in the summer heat, we’ll be cruising at Stanage in the Autumn” proved true) and building a very strong relationship with a crag I’ve always loved but never previously felt at home at, creating great memories that I’ll always associate with this year.
Orpheus Wall, Birchen This was (and still is) the hardest trad route I’ve climbed since my accident and the only really technical thing I did all year. I’d seconded it six years ago but had to use different beta so as not to require sticking my weak/ inflexible leg in the break and it turned out that also meant I had to use a worse handhold too. Nothing like a bit of triumph over adversity! :strongbench:
The Rainbow, Shining Clough This was the first rock climb I’d done for five and a half months. I didn’t feel like climbing in the first couple of weeks or so after the big lockdown but then suddenly regained the psyche, talked Reeve’s ears off all the way to the crag and had so much fun leading incredibly easy routes like this, flailing on second and taking pictures.
Top Spankings
Martini, Agden Rocher Putting this down as a spanking even though I got up it first go. I was psyched to prove to my partners how much steadier I’d become at leading but the disconcerting rock of the Rocher (in my defence you do have to climb an arête with a 2m square hollow block that you can see through on every side) turned me into the gibbering wreck they were probably expecting. :look:
Barney Rubble, Dovestone TorWhen you haven’t been able to boulder for years steep and/ or powerful climbing can feel very hard and intimidating and I had a real unexpected meltdown on this (and then seconding the E1 next to it), so bad that I can’t turn into something funny as much as I’d like to, particularly as I used to find much harder versions of this style of climbing easy peasy :(. This was back in June though and I didn’t freak out again all year so I’m putting it behind me.
Goliath’s Groove, Stanage Plantation I got pretty good at cracks of all sizes this year, even offwidths, which gave me the idea of finally getting on this classic which I’d “saved for the onsight” since I first started climbing. On a glorious but slightly midgey summer evening I gave it absolutely everything I had (including quite a lot of skin from my left ankle), which sadly was not quite enough to get to the top of the offwidth section- abbing for the gear confirmed I was one move away from easy street. Needs a rematch in 2021 with the offwidth footwork skills I’ve learnt since.
The Giant’s Staircase, Cratcliffe A family had oohed and aahed as I frolicked up the lower two thirds of this southern Peak weirdfest, their dad giving them a shit explanation of what I was doing the whole way. I have no shame in my climbing these days but the sound of them shuffling off as I repeatedly slithered out of the top mantel was not a highlight. :no:
Tower Crack, Burbage South This was a team spanking- my mate got his knee fully stuck in the starting offwidth crack twice (second time was like, “Boogie ‘til you Poop” stuck :lol:) and had to fully aid on huge cams to get it out. Unnerved, he then made a right meal of the upper layback flake and bailed. The whole time I was doing that thing where you’re sure that they’re making a fuss about nothing and itching to cruise it yourself- this felt justified as earlier I’d warmed up on another offwidth that he’d done a hilarious feet-level-with-hands layback trying to second. So I gladly took over on this one, got my own leg stuck in it twice and we had to ab for the gear. :whistle:
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Ah, the best of .... thread. Always a good read - great to see what others have been up to and put a bit of context to the who's who of UKB. On the other hand, I always get a twinge of FOMO when I see how much everyone seems to get done and how relatively little I seem to manage!
Pandemic or not, for me 2020 was always going to be a quiet year based on local exploration because our 2nd child was born in late 2019, so trips away and even long days out were off the cards. Lone bouldering and development fits so much more conveniently into quick hits. Fortunately, the nearby forests and glens seem to be hiding enough new things to keep me busy. Despite years of hunting, I'm still labouring under the illusion that the perfect boulder with the perfect project is lurking out there and I guess that's what keeps me going.
Top 4 boulder problems
It was mainly a year of doing new things so I didn't repeat many established problems. Of the ones I did that I'd not done before the best were:
Booting Up, 6C+, Torridon - an unsung gem from Richie Betts at the Boot Flake area, up the glen from the main jumble.
True Forge, 7A, Rhue - a bit of a pebbly graunch.
Ninth Day, 6B+, Reiff in the Woods - highball. Great fun on my own after a look on a rope.
Touching From a Distance, 6C, Inchbae - shout out to other people putting in the effort to find and clean new things. Ian Abbot put in the hard work on this one so I just got to arrive and climb it. Lovely spot.
Top 3 new boulder problems/DWS
Reckoner, 7A, Tarvie Wall - this one took quite a few trips to clean, work out the moves and then get in good enough condition to do. Good moves and quite committing up high.
Heartbeep Lefthand, 7A, Achilty Wall - last session of 2020. This was a surprise find late in the year on a wall that I'd written off before but then went back to with a different perspective. Not sure how I missed it the first time. Steep squeezy fun, which I'm absolutely shit at!
Under the Greenwood Tree, 7a (DWS), Conon Wall - again, I looked at an old wall with a different perspective and after giving it a scrub realised I'd missed the plum line of the crag. Really good climbing with the crux at the top, as it should be.
No trad (except one rather crap new thing that isn't worth mentioning) and no sport to mention. Will try to remedy that in 2021.
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getting hitched myself a fortnight ago :wub:)
Congratulations
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Not gonna have a load of categories to contribute to, nor a particularly strong ticklist, but I have enjoyed some nice boulders.
Top 5 Boulders
Crescent Arete, 5+ - What do I say about this. Happy to have onsighted it, and absolutely loved both the movement and the experience. Magnificent and one of my all time favourites I reckon.
Not to be Taken Away, 6C - 10 minutes after doing Crescent Arete in a day of highballs. Extremely enjoyable and memorable, if not quite as good as the aforementioned. I felt my eyes drift left to 'the big one'...
Grasswind, 7B+/C - One of the most aesthetic boulders I have ever climbed, in an absolutely stunning place. You could put those moves on grimestone in a shithole and it would still be a classic, it really is the full package. Was absolutely roasting that day so everything felt like hard work!
Animal Magnetism, 7B+ - "You better do this now cos am I fuck walking up that hill again", said Matt as I put my shoes on. The unthinkable almost happened and I thought I was going to flash something, until the universe realised what was going on and spat me off tickling the top of the lip. Universe in order again, I got up it 3rd try. Belter. Walk worthwhile? For me, not for Matt.
Hitchikers Guide to the Galaxy, 7A - Absolutely brilliant climbing on a day where I was really not feeling it. Barely pulled onto the rock that day, so I am glad that I decided to crawl out of my gruesome mood to get up this one.
This has been a year of area development, meaning I have done more FAs than repeats. All of these are at the Wen.
Top 4 FAs
The Warlock, 7A - Lovely traversing on little sloping edges and sea smooth feet. A lovely sequence and punchy all the way. Reminiscent of the Witch in the Pass, so named for that.
Cubeliminate LH SS, 7A - Although this is an eliminate, it is a fantastic burly line up a very prominent boulder. The Wen test piece and one that I do every time I am there. I actually did the FA of this in 2019, but the left hand start sidepull crumbled making it a bit harder at the bottom.
Barnacle Thumbs, 7A - As lowball as lowball gets, and only exposed at a very low beach level (unless you do some digging, which I did), but the moves on this are cracking and it is quite different to everything else there.
Crabbing in a New World, 7B - The full traverse of Dog Whelk roof took me a few sessions to link. Sustained, with the most droppable move being the last one. Really happy to have done this one since when I first discovered the place this was the line I wanted to do, but could find a good solution to. Turns out its all in the heel toe camming!
Now for something less self congratulatory :sick:
Top 5 spankings
Wedgie Wall, 8something - Despite training I was just too week at the start of 2020 to get up this. Not surprising as its hard! I was also way too psyched to know to stop before it completely ruined me for the weekend. Window of opportunity (as minuscule as it was) has probably closed on this one since moving down to Cardiff and getting injured on my left hand.
Barrel Traverse, 7C - I reckon I can do everything else on this boulder on any given day, but this just totally repels me! Proper Nemesis problem for me, which is great since it gives me something to not do whilst my mate is trying the classics.
Jerrys Problem, 7C+ - The day after trying Wedgie, so this one wasn't destined to go well. Managed all the moves bar the first slam into the gaston, but despite being able to get my fingers in there, I was just not strong enough to hold it. Revealed some shoulder weaknesses though which is good.
Working Class, 8A - I actually did better on this than I thought, as I was just having a play on it while my mate tried Poverty RH. Got that match move, but it has barely started at that point... One to come back for.
Y Anodd Iawn, Project - Cool looking bloc at the Wen which I thought might yield a 7B+ ish from the sitter. Turns out that is probably closer to what the stand is. The moves from sitting completely repelled me, having no feet and holds the wrong way round. Only gave it 1 session, and almost did the stand. Maybe one day I will be back.
Looking at my logbook I was actually surprised at how much I did, though if I didn't have the Wen it would have been significantly smaller. My major positives this year were life related, rather than climbing, so it was nice to reflect on some of the best rock I have hauled myself up in 2020.
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No foreign bouldering and no trad this year...
Top 3 sport routes (UK)
30 is the New 40 was most pleasing thing I did from 2nd Jan until end of 2020, but I put it in the new things section to milk more of of my "top 3s"!
Malcolm X (Chee cornice) - It's not the best route at the crag, but a nice reminder of fun times at a dry cornice! Good climbing on not very nicely glued holds. A timely reminder of the importance of subtleties on rock after lots of fingerboarding in lockdown - holding a hold slightly differently being the difference between falling off and it feeling pretty chill.
Auctioneer (WCJ cornice) - Pleased to flash this with good beta from Ed just before we went to FJ. Fun route (unlike Ape Index, which is shit).
The Bulge (Kilnsey) - Fun days out at Kilnsey in the summer, trying my proj and doing the odd flash on things like this. More please!
Top 3 sport routes (abroad)
Sandokan (Masriudoms) - I've said this before with long onsights/flashes, and I'll say it again: everything I want from rock climbing. 60m of glorious climbing to the top of the Masriudoms cave, continually interesting, never desperate, just flirting above and below the line of control through the harder parts, no idea how I was going to get down on our rope if I blew it near the top... Perfect start to the year on New Year's Day. Everything basically went downhill from there :slap:
Masters of the Universe (Frankenjura) - The main thing I wanted to do in Fankenjura, mostly because it looked very non-Frankenjura on the video of Ondra onsighting it. Very fun, even if I did find a non-dyno way for the crux. I bloody love roofs.
Penumbral Solar Eclipse (Frankenjura) - I'm not a short route kinda guy, but this was great, with a really cool finishing boulder (nice holds, cool cutloose, big pounce to the lip of the crag, stick your heel above your head etc.). Favourite thing I did on our remote work/holiday trip to FJ. Really hoping that we can do more of this in 2021 (should have been in Spain doing it now, but scuppered by covid :thumbsdown:)
Top 3 boulders (UK)
Looking at this list, I really didn't do much good bouldering in 2020!
Triggertrocity - After a bit of a meltdown in Feb about how abysmal it was to live in such a wet country and spend most of life waiting for 6 weeks of holiday a year, finally in mid March I refound a bit of love for climbing by, of all things, going to the cave. Got well psyched to try from the back to the top straight through the middle. Then we got locked down after having 2 sessions there and not been back since. Fun anyway, need to go back for extensions.
Under the Greenwood Tree - Surprisingly good, and happy to flash it.
Tetris - More grit like this please. Fun session out with Ed
Top 32 problems/routes put up
30 is the New 40 - the direct start to 42 at the cornice. Tried it the year before, but it got wet. Top of my to-do list in the UK for 2020, very pleased to do it early after lockdown, and probably the first FA I've done that's actually not shit! Really cool kneebar sequence just after the crux, which of course made me happy, and a good excuse to learn to bolt too.
Bleat Fighter - Extension shuffling at Griff's, mostly wanted to do it so I could use one from my list of Griff's names.
Top spankings
Working 9-5SS into Sean's Roof - broke the foothold for my kneebar at the start of Sean's. It still goes (with knee and with jump) but is prob too hard for me now so sacked off trying.
Kilnsey proj - perhaps not really a spanking as I cleaned it up, got good sequences, discovered it's about the right level of difficulty for me to be psyched on, could try it on my duff finger (which somewhat saved summer) and even bolted a direct start... but wetness and family stuff meant I never got to redpointing despite putting about 10 days of effort into it. Big goal for this year, fingers crossed for a dry Spring/Summer.
My finger - fucked it again in Feb. Fudged on through the summer and Frankenjura. Had some injections from Volker but they don't seem to have done much so it's back to old-school rehab
Existential crises - had a few. Why do I live in the UK??
Brexit - what a dumb idea. Tupac sums it up best
Fuck Brexit, fuck Boris, fuck Vote Leave as a staff, record label and as a motherfucking crew
And if you want to be down with Brexit, then fuck you too
Tories: fuck you too
All you motherfuckers, fuck you too
All of y'all motherfuckers, fuck you; die slow, motherfucker
My .44 make sure all y'all kids don't grow
I might have got the lyrics slightly wrong, but I'm pretty sure that's what he meant
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Always the best thread, nice one everyone!
Bouldering
Probably the least bouldering I've done for nearly a decade...
Weekend Warrior, Saddle Tor
It's a tiny bit eliminate, but the movement is so good you can forgive that, and was such a lovely day last winter. Was 7A+ bitd when known as problem 6, the finger jug broke and Squire reclimbed it at 8A, it's since improved again and is around 7B+/C and hopefully stable.
The Woodsman 7A, Bovey Woods
Brilliant slab in the woods, saved a day when everything else was condensed to fuck.
Trad
Only a day in Pembroke and one in N Devon for proper trad, but I'm going to count some dartmoor soloing with mats...
Rock Idol E1, Mother Careys
Pretty much perfect, glorious summer day too.
Sacre Couer E2, Blackchurch
Think this may be the best trad route I've ever done. Incredible feature and location, 30m of consistently engaging, calf burning slab to the top of the pyramid. Sitting atop this belaying was probably my happiest climbing moment of 2020. Went out and bought some stiffer shoes straight afterwards though!
Limbo Dancer E4, Hound Tor
Taking the trad tick for this, two mats and no spotter def doesn't make up for the back-breaking boulder in the landing! Chuffed as had reversed from the lip many times over the years.
Sport
Probably my best year of bolt clipping, if not ever then certainly since 2003 or so. The walls being shut much of it, combined with the scarcity of local bouldering, has meant a rediscovery of not just how much good stuff there is around, but also how often you can get a worthwhile day out of a crappy forecast.
East of Sweden 6b+, Ban-y-Gor
Probably the pick of the routes I did on first day out after lockdown, and mostly for that, but it stands on its own merits too. Ban-y-Gor was the (re)discovery of the year for me, had one visit there nearly a decade ago and dismissed it, but some great days this year.
Heady Days 6b+, Ban-y-Gor
Best of its grade I've done in the UK, amazing position for the grade in the top section.
Almost Me 7c, Ban-y-Gor
Chossy lower wall, but amazing pulling above on jugs through incredibly steep ground, especially for UK sport. Pulling round the prow with the Wye way below is brilliant.
Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove 7b, Foxhole
OMG this is so fucking good! Absolute must do at this grade. Feels like Spain, and was hot enough to be Spain that day too.
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Sport
Atmospheres, Pinfold Crag
Did this on an excellent day out with Fiend. Proper burl for most of the route with a surprisingly delicate finish. Fabulous.
Day of the Long Knives, Rhubarb Buttress
Great climbing on excellent rock. Fun all the way to the belay.
Ring of Fire, The Tor
Took me far longer than it should, longer than anything else at the grade.
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It might not be seemly to say it, but I've had a fantastic year climbing, and even general life hasn’t been too taxing. I've done some (for me) hard stuff, got into projecting a bit (I've previously never really had more than a couple of sessions on something in quick succession), and have had a great laugh with my mates along the way. Forgive the long post, but there’s been lots of stand-out quality.
Trad
Desperation Crack, Brimham, HVS
A freezing day in March. It started to sleet and hail halfway up. The last section was desperate but was eventually beaten.
Wall of Horrors, Almscliff, E3
Top roped by Dolphin, climbed by Austin. The moves, the history, the positions. Cor!
Earl Buttress, Earl Crag, E2
Absolutely perfect in its formation. Peerless.
Big Greeny, Almscliff, E3
The last of the Almscliff “big 3”. I’d seconded it before and always meant to get round to leading it, but could only remember a nightmarish rounded top out with one hidden edge to take you over it. It turns out that when I seconded it over 10 years ago I had done a more direct finish, avoiding the nice positive holds to the right! All that avoiding the route had been for nothing!
Highball
Didn’t do a huge number of highballs this year but those we did felt really significant, particularly the Caley ones which had been long dreamed of.
Desperate Dan, Ilkley, 6C (E6)
18 pads! Most of them are there to form a platform to lay a couple of pads on that then cover a nasty boulder. I felt like the top wasn’t fall-offable and it wasn’t entirely straightforward. There was a moment when I did the crux and made the conscious decision to press on which felt great.
Strangeness, Caley, 6C+ (E7)
Maybe the first ground-up punter ascent? i.e I cusped it. Second go, ground up, having jumped off after the crux on the first go. After seeing Dave and Franco do it I popped my shoes back on and committed to the top. Exciting!
Great Flake, Caley, 6C (E6)
The HMS Warburton sailed serenely to the top. I followed in his wake. At the top, the crux presents itself and is very committing. Laying away into not entirely positive slopers, with high feet, some 7 or 8m off the floor. My mind emptied and I climbed. Allez!
Boulders
Monochrome, Burbage, 7A+
Were ever a more perfect set of moves devised? Flashed Boyager and then waltzed to the top of this, thoroughly burning off the assembled Peakies who were labouring under the impression that they were actually 7A+ and 7B respectively.
Pinch 32, Baildon, 7B+ (soft)
Kind of shit, but kind of good. It makes the list despite of its obvious flaws. It was just really satisfying to find a sequence that brought it down to my level.
Rumble in the Jungle, Hawkcliffe, 7A+
Superb arete climb. Felt quite similar to Suavito. Felt like it wasn’t going to happen but the connies improved and I went up for a last go.
Code Orange, Hellifield, 7A+
When we were told we could go out for unlimited exercise I booked the day off work and went to Hellifield. It was so good to feel movement on rock again after the hiatus, and this was such tasty movement.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CAS6Rc9DOPi/
Lay-by Arete, Slipstones, 7B+
The big one for the year! Not the biggest grade, but I’ve been spat off the move to the break on this before and really wanted to do it. It was a glorious day at Slipstones. Snow on the ground and the tops. Gorgeous sunshine illuminating the rock in vivid colours. Superb craic throughout. I was getting into the move to the crimp each time but just not quite making it click. Then, after a bit of a rest, it just happened. YYFY!
Sport
A little group of us found that our desires aligned, and we ended up at the same crags and on the same lines. We had an absolute ball! My previous hardest sport climb was Illywacker which I’d already upgraded to 7c. At the start of the year I had intentions to do some more 7c’s, but having seen Sam Marks huff and puff up the start of Subculture I’d be fucked if I wasn’t going to at least try and keep pace.
Sunset Boulevard, Gigg North, 7c
Ended up taking much longer than I’d hoped, but I really loved those top moves. Fiesty and droppable. Refined the beta and when it went it felt so triumphal to power up through that undercut at the top.
Divine Brown, Gigg North, 7c+
7c+ was not supposed to be on the cards this year, but Sam made it look inviting. Having just done Sunset Brown (i.e. doing the top crux), I got onto the lower wall and discovered that it’s steep but all jugs. It felt awesome to be hanging about on the flake at the top and actually recovering. The top crux culminates in a punch for the final jug on the lip of the cave. Monster!
Comedy, Kilnsey, 7b+/c (kneepad)
Somebody told me there was a kneebar that improved the mid-height crux so I strapped on the filthy rubber contraption. I shambled through the bottom crux about as inefficiently as possible and made it to the rest. Recovered a bit there then juuuuuust about clutched the redpoint crux above it. From there it was slap after slap up the jugs on battered arms until I eventually, somehow, reached the belay. I was so pumped it took a couple of attempts to lift the rope and get it in the chain. Ben later said he thought I was off from the second move. A scrap from start to finish – 4 star experience.
Obsession, Malham, 7b+
Jim somehow tricked me into trying to onsight it putting the draws in, so I inevitably had to come back and do it second session. Climbing with Yorkshire legend Andy Crome, Upstairs on the brink of oblivion, the birds swooping, the multitude below gazing upwards. The sun beat upon us and we watched for a line of clouds that might last long enough for us to do the route. Boredom got the better of me and I set off, squinting against the glare. The Malham gods smiled upon me and the clouds came just as I arrived at the rest below the top crux, which I just about clawed my way through. Liquid rock climbing.
Honourable mention: Subculture, Kilnsey, 8a
Not the best route and not the best experience, but a much harder thing than I’d expected from the year.
Craic
For me, climbing is about so much more than the grades and the training and the 1-5-9. Climbing is joyful; climbing is the stage on which the greatest dramas of our lives play out; it is the dojo in which we spar with our friends. Climbing is life. Some of the best moments are when you’re stood around laughing your heads off at some silly thing that happened at the crag. These are the most memorable craics from the year.
Burbage raid with a big team
We descended on Burbage with one goal. Climb and downgrade as many low 7s as possible. It got off to a rocky start with Velvet Crab but by the time we moved onto Boyager we were hitting our stride. Many laughs were had that day.
Kilnsey
I can’t bring myself to relate the story in full here. It involved some loud, brusque barracking of Ben as he crawled his car along the road at the bottom of the crag, looking out of his window at the routes. Except it wasn’t Ben’s car, and it wasn’t Ben…
It was appalling, but I’m still laughing about it.
Slipstones
I’m so glad I caught this on camera. The silly sod had ticked the narrowest bit of the wholly commodious break, so when he slapped for it he missed.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CJboG7kj0US/
Weekend in the Lakes at Eskdale Fisherground and Carrock
Wasn’t wholly impressed with the climbing but we had a good laugh. Especially when poor 8c Jim declared that Rob’s Wall was piss, 6B, and he was going to get it next go. I think he fell off it for the next hour before giving in.
New
Dennis the Menace, Rowantree Tor, 6C
Nice bit of arete tech.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B8rtEopDFh8/
The Nestlings, Low Huller Stones, 7A+
A contrived oddity which actually had a great move on it.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CATOxU2j0ld/
Lifetime project and king line
I believe this has already been repeated.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B_r7xPODdpu/
Spankings
The Prize, Brimham, 7A+
I’ve fucked this up and not sure what other chance I’ll get to finish it off. Now all my mates who are likely to want to do it have done it and it needs loads of pads and a good spot.
Junkyard Angel, Malham, HVS
Obviously I got up it but it took me ages and I was quite scared at the top. It’s such a shame I can’t wrap my head around Yorkshire limestone trad because it means I’ll probably never get to do some really inspiring routes like Face Route, Slender Loris, etc etc.
Misc
Crook Gill
A scorching hot and humid June evening. Nobody was keen for Kilnsey. Met up with Julie and we plodded up Strans Gill which was bone dry. Then onto Crook Gill. Dark, wet, intimidating. A series of short waterfall pitches of varying shapes and sizes interspersed with swims and scrambling. Definitely one of the most thrilling activities of the year. We giggled our way along it, wondering what beautiful thing we were going to encounter next. If you’re ever wondering what to do on a day when it’s too hot to climb, do this.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CB5NM1zjcxN/
Holiday to the Lakes
Got the kid out on the rock and also did a nice multipitch – Rake End Wall.
Board rediscovery
Set some cool problems which I really enjoyed.
Guidebook
Things are really starting to happen. Still a way to go but it’s getting there.
Worst
A Crimson Tear, Ilkley
Arbitrary, skin-shredding rubbish.
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Apart from a few hours trad with Lagers I've only bouldered this year and aprt from one March trip to the County it's all been Peak and Maglime.
Best of the Best
Gulliver's Travels, Church. Superb limestone sublety to a groundhog final move https://youtu.be/pcSFGCPOyyg
Hitchhikers. I mean, it French starts off a boulder, is only two moves long and doesn't even top out but is somehow totally brilliant.
Fin SS, Gib Tor. Had bottled the top on my own a few days before. Dropped off once then had a word with myself - you've done the stand so know what's coming, sea of foam, staked down pads, spotter, prime connies, do it now or give up on it. Went on to have a classic day also doing S&M sit and Night of Lust Left Hand.
The penny drops took a few years but eventually worked them out
Hot Toddy, Froggatt. Tried this once previously and made absolutely no impression, on return the sequence seemed quite obvious but the subleties needed a bit of working out, dead good
https://youtu.be/ja5Hej-MZpw
Kidneystone, Gardoms. A YYFY after 10 years of making excuses. Also a great problem.
Sisyphus. Owler. I groaned whern Dolly suggested it and nearly sacked him off, always seemed so improbable. The move seems a long way but getting the distance isn't the problem, it's about creating enough time to snatch the break before you peel of rightwards, just needed a bit of lateral thinking.
https://youtu.be/cOdjuhH5foE
The old-skool problems I should have done years ago.
Fab Arete, Curbar. After all that, it's fine. Now dare you go for thearete at other end....
Crimpy Roof, Stanage Right. Repulsed previously at the wet heather cornice. A really nice bit of roof climbing with an awkward nervy finish.
Doggy Style. Burbage South. Last problem on the red circuit and curiously the only one I haven't done before. When I get there I remember having tried it years ago. Turns out to be condiditions dependent, shouldery and plain hard, odd that the 7As on the same boulder have more ticks. Scraped up it with a final effort as the sun set.
Chinks in the choss - didn't go to the usual Peak lime after lockdown so these are decent problems on Eastern and Southern lime
Faith Left Hand, Roche. Lovely bit of rock above the break where the difficulties lie.
Bad Habits SS, Roche Good move to and from the sidepull
Pokemon City limits. So Basic. Sit Start, big move for a crimp, hard match, big move for the finishing hold. No subleties. What's not to like?
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Isn't more than three entries for each category cheating?
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Great to read as ever. Like most, this year was somewhat constrained by the usual but also by other stuff covered in the 2020 Aims thread. I was active for about half the year.
Top three overseas trips cancelled:
Céüse, with a great team, for a big birthday in June. The gîte people were incredibly decent about it and I am very keen to give them some business as soon as I can.
Fontainebleau, with the family. Les Courtilles du Lido were totally fine about cancelling; DFDS ferries were not, the bastards.
Japan, with the family, for the Olympics. Mixed feelings about this, not especially a fan of the Olympics but visiting Japan is always cool and the lad had shown conceptual interest in hiking up Mt. Fuji with me. Bonus number four (sorry jwi): the usual trip to do a big route somewhere, with HG, but this never reached fully planned status.
Top three vicarious thrills:
In lieu of the real thing, I read a lot of books about climbing. These are some of the most inspiring.
The White Cliff. Grant Farquhar’s love letter to Gogarth. Very big, a lot that is magnificent, some tangential material, and some choss. Much like the cliff.
The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland. Various artists ed. Guy Robertson. Mostly extremely inspirational. Not sure what Sarklet is doing in there but I guess it couldn't be only places that need non-scheduled boat access. It’s got me even more syked for the Scottish islands, if that were possible.
Boulder Britain. Nearly bought a proper bouldering mat this year as I finally have a car that can carry one! Very keen to do some more bouldering this year.
Top three ongoing projects:
Road Rage 7b+ (Portland). Great moves, challenging for me, great to see csl improvise his way up it despite a crux hold going missing between sessions.
Chulillia 7b+ (Brean). I did two or possibly three moves on this, fell off and stubbed my toe which is still black two months later. The crag was unpleasantly crowded and I won’t be going back until the Bristol climbing walls have reopened. This might count as a spanking rather than ongoing project.
Living Dead 7b (Uphill). Classic cornflake pulling. It would have gone in a day had I had more than a couple of hours before doing my family duties. I’ll bring more skin and tie-off the peg next time.
Top one concrete boulder problem:
Undercover (eliminate). ~6A. (Fairlop Waters, the big roofed block). The roof without the biggest holds, superb showboating opportunities!
Top three sport routes:
Through the Barricades (Blacknor) 7a+. A quick working, first go. A good start to the year, didn’t climb for five months after this!
Clashing Socks 7b (Brean). An unusually quiet day at the crag, a quick working to refamiliarise myself with the moves, and it went quite smoothly.
Peppercorn Rate 7a (Winspit). Another quick work and go, the one trip grabbed between lockdown 2 and tier 4.
Top Only three trad. days out, from a very quiet year:
Mask of Red Death (Rhoscolyn) in the morning followed by Resolution Direct (Gogarth) in the afternoon, with HG. The Anglesea revival!
Tout Le Monde Sur Le Bacon (Uphill Quarry), with the lad. One of the first routes I ever climbed - a TR and solo with school friends in about 1977. Repeated it with the lad, who at least feigned interest.
Various E0s (Stanage Popular) that I’d soloed back in the day but now find rather challenging, with Fiend! It was ludicrously busy and I couldn’t think for the life of me how we’d ended up there but it was great fun and we bumped into cheque which was nice of course.
Top three life events:
Left my job.
Put house up for sale.
Survived covid.
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It’s a little hard to subdivide this in some ways since I did such a narrow range of things this year!
Between my daughter being born at the end of 2019 and a global pandemic I didn’t touch rock until June and I basically just bouldered and did DWS, and didn’t stray very far from home with the exception of one trip to Northumberland in lieu of Font. So with that in mind:
Best three southern boulders:
Phat Slapper, New Cuttings - a nice techy fingery sequence leads to laying one on for the finishing ledge
Sharp Arête, Combeshead - just a really nice arête climb
Hanging Flakes, Combeshead - up this and down the Flake Crack, surely two of the Moors best at their grades right next to each other?
Best three Northumberland boulders:
Monty Pythons Direct sitter - hardest problem I’ve done in ages, cool moves
Neb Roof, Shaftoe - took me ages to work out a sequence through the roof and felt very satisfying when it went
Lorraine start, Bowden - just a really cool clean line
In all honesty I could pick out so many problems from this trip, especially at the easier end where (having never been there before) I had that great luxury of being able to just do classics as my warm up every day.
Top three spankings
Russian Roulette - as a symptom of how unfit I got over lockdown. I did it at the end of the season, but the spanking was in June, I remember sitting on the big ledge at the end of Big Easy having got monstrously flash pumped and having realised I couldn’t recover sitting on a ledge! I decided I ought to get going anyway and took my first dip of the season pumped out of my tree at the base of the crack
Berry Head - bit of a head fail of a day, didn’t want to go high
It doesn’t feel that much like a spanking, but I feel I should have tried a bit harder on my goes on Swinging Nineties as I made fairly little impression on it.
Three most soul-replenishing days out:
First day back on rock for 8 months, at St Aldhelms head bouldering. The weather was perfect sunshine, the setting is great, so despite the fact it was far too hot and that I climbed like a bag of spanners it was magnificent
I had a day at Combeshead on August Bank Holiday. Crisp start, then glorious sunshine, didn’t see any other climbers until the end of the day, just a wonderful setting, big blue skies, peace and quiet
I had a great weekend on Portland in September - brought the family down to camp atop the dws, saw an old friend and played tour guide with mint conditions and great tide times. I didn’t really do anything new apart from finishing Russian Roulette but had a brilliant time enjoying classic routes.
Honorary final mention, hard to categorise or find a trio for, goes to the discovery that my son quite likes coming out climbing with me. It restricts me to certain places (he’s 3, so has little legs and only moderate tolerance for rough ground and long walks), but I wouldn’t have got half as much climbing done this year without him in tow and it’s been great watching him have fun too.
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Some great posts here - inspiring.
For climbing hard 2020 was by best year to date. I was climbing better than I ever had going into lockdown, but that forced me to train in a structured way for the first time in my life. I started a training diary and in the 280 days since I started - I’ve trained or climbed on 204 of those days. I built a narrow but steep board in the loft room - and the project of building it - and subsequently using it kept me sane and gave me escape from the first 5 months of perma child care until the schools re-opened. This really pushed me up a level - I last did 7C back in 2013 and post lockdown ticked three - and one 7C+. I was simply stronger when I came out of my attic...
No ropes involved this year :)
Top Boulder Problems:
The Starship 7C, Wilton 3 I was close-ish to this around the New Year and after - but post lockdown it went on my second session. Its a lowball - but quite technical with lots of moves for the height ‘gained’ and 2-3 very droppable moves. It went on a lovely late spring day - with a cookoo calling in the distance.
Nemesis 7C, Wilton 4 Spurred on my Starship - and feeling strong - I started working this problem. Took about 4 sessions I think - and I had to figure out a different way of doing the crux from other ways on film. Again, quite a lot of micro beta - and some powerful moves. Surprised when it went - didnt know how to get down - and ended up trotting alongside the road to get back with just my climbing jeans on. Who cares :D (its on the video below)
Ron Burgandys Moustache 7B, Helsby Barrel Buttress Oh I’ve been trying this for years... it takes a series of small (8-10mm) crimps across left and joins a 3* fairly highball 6B (the Barrel) to the top. All the one arm lock off training I did seemed to help - and I found I could lock into the final position on the traverse to bring the right hand across and then up. But - I’d done all the moves in isolation but not together (the last reach on the traverse feels about 7B on its own..). I turned up one Sunday evening - when I’d had a stress migraine/headache all day - hardly eaten, felt nauseous and just needed to climb to forget about everything. Did not really feel good after warming up - but then it just went. From beginning to end. Disbelief - and pleasure in one.
Grasshopper 7C+, Stronstrey Bank this traverses via a crossover into and then up Noisy Cricket 7C. I’d managed to do NC in a session (!) but the move after the crossover was powerful - and hard - and then you had to do some fairly stiff pulling to get to the top. It took two sessions - but it was super satisfying to figure out my own way of doing it, working out where I was going wrong and figuring a way to overcome it. Something Pete Robins said in Grimers Podcast about climbing smarter rang true for me with this. First of the grade for me - and its probably soft - but felt like a real achievement, and that the hard work training had paid off.
Fast Cars and Camper Vans F7A, Carrock Climbed at Carrock mostly once or twice a year for the last ten years or so... Never got close on this - always eyed it up. Got it on the last chance of a trip - during a week of dire weather (floods) just before a shower blew in. 3* problem on magical rock. Fantastic.
Top Days out:
A lot of my climbing was local (lancs) and I didnt stray further from home than Trowbarrow (a shit session :D) after March - but I had some great times meeting up with Dolly, Nai, Plattsy and on occasion Lagers in the Peak. Memorable trips included when Pete did the Rib at BBG south. I f*cking had all of my hand around the top hold and dropped it - then couldn’t get any closer - but any disappointment went watching Dolly do it - after ten years or so of trying. A couple of fun sessions at the P being sandbagged and a good day out in December at the North end of Stanage.
Spankings
Where do I start... Probably with Rodins Requiem, a 7B (the fastest drying 7B in Lancs I’d wager) face climb at Wilton 3 with a weird/knacky toe hook pull your weight across with opposing gastons move. F*ck, I’ve had ten or more sessions on this - and came close when trying to show RMan how shit I was at it! But kind of froze and had to drop off. I’m bloody closer to doing the 8A sit method than the 7B....
Jamie and His Magic Torch 7B (Curbar) - watch me giving it the finger in the vid... FFS, knacky slightly slabby grit arêtes are my forte... apparently not this one...
Kudos, The Press... usual things I circulate on during the summer.... came close on Kudos though.. should have gone really.
Top Training Achievements Given lockdown - this should be on the list :D 1 arm lock offs - never done one before this year. Progressed from needing 8kg assist to doing my first one in about 6 weeks - then took ages to repeat and ended up the summer doing them carrying an extra 3kg (both arms). Got 1 arm PU’s down to 4kg (from 14) assist - but with appalling form and not starting straight armed... then my elbows felt like exploding. Starting again on these but watching my form..
Life Stuff Moved sideways with work - from a department (with toxic management) to an institute that seems so nicely run I keep thinking it might be satire.. This has been a very positive move - though hard through guilt of letting former colleagues down. Enjoyed spending time with my lad more than I would have (even though it drove me spare at times), and managed not to get divorced :D
If you’ve got a spare 5 min to time to waste - I’ve tried to capture most of the above in the edit below:
https://youtu.be/oujmUopzjkA
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Fontainebleau, with the family. Les Courtilles du Lido were totally fine about cancelling
Yes, we missed our trip too. Hopefully they’ve sorted out the delaminating swimming pool for summer 2021!
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The crag was unpleasantly crowded and I won’t be going back until the Bristol climbing walls have reopened.
Love it when someone drives from London and then complains that the locals are making the crag busy
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Basically all grit solo bouldering this year, with a few nice exceptions. Can't think why...
Top 3 Boulders
Kidneystone - Really nice moves, although took probably too long to figure out the top section!
Deliverance - Have climbed it before, but still feels really good to latch the top!
Left Hand Man - Not actually climbed yet! Went from feeling nails to piss when I got the beta right, which felt great. Now I just need the top of the problem to dry...
Top 3 Routes
The Rasp - Just great. Nice and sustained, without anything too cruxy. Even managed to maintain some semblance of style at the top.
The Dangler - A good fight!
Doorpost - Jugs and jams everywhere. The Cornish answer to Muldoon at the Araps! One of the few routes in the UK that may have enough jugs for my girlfriend to consider it worthwhile.
Top 3 Spankings
Made in Sheffield - Basically couldn't even comprehend pulling on. Feels like my complete anti-style, so I should probably get back there and try it again.
Nicotine Stain - Got about 2 moves up and immediately got stuck.
Butterfly Crack/Melvyn Bragg combo - Joint entry for pissing about on offwidths. Got very spanked but great fun.
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Obligatory "it's been a funny year..." but all things considered feel like I've gotten quite a bit done. Made a conscious decision to focus on doing a bit more volume which feels like a good choice. Had a couple of trips early in the year (pre-lockdown) which in retrospect was very fortuitous. Good sport climbing scenes through summer and managed to squeeze in a couple of long deep water soloing weekends which were a lot of fun (if not hugely productive).
Top 3 Sport Routes
A trilogy of cheedale 7c+s. All top quality, all done quickly in great pre/post work sessions with good friends. Not the hardest stuff but just getting out and doing some routes felt like a treat after lockdown.
Toys for the Boys, Nettle buttress. Pristine crimps and some funky moves which was very satisfying to work out.
A Vision of Loveliness, Two Tier Upper. Pristine glue job. Got a great spray down from GVG and fired it off quickly. Two tier upper is such a classy crag, just a shame there's not a few more decent routes up there. Having said that the trav there looks ace, psyched for a return trip to get on it.
Tequila Mockingbird, Chee Tor. Classic Ron and (criminally) my first route at the crag. Loved the bolting on this too, just spaced enough to feel a bit spicy.
Honourable mentions
Superbowl 7c, hollywood bowl. Fun climbing in to the cave then super funky sequence from there, this was one of the first hard routes I got on after lockdown eased and it was quite a change from climbing on the board!
Kleptomania 8a, hollywood bowl. Quality kneebar boulder problem on a rope.
Pig in the Roof 8b, Leonidio. If it's 8b it'd be my first. More fun knee bar climbing though. Excellent stuff.
Top 3 Boulder Problems
Bouldering psyche has been a bit hit and miss this year. Feel like I've managed to sneak in a few decent sessions though.
eatswood Traverse, 7B+. Gritstone for the limestone climber. Pumpy, techy and great sequence. I reckon all the link ups in here are under rated too, great training venue.
Cave Problem 7B+, Raven Tor. Very satisfying 'click' when the heel move fell in to place. Felt close-ish on the sit but had some problems with seepage.
Piss 7B, Higgar. Was fumbling around ineffectually before a nice German couple turned up and offered up some beta. Wild mantel+slap for the top!
Honorable mentions
Linkups at Cucklett Delph.
Top 3 DWS
Spent quite a bit of time falling off Cutlass so most of these are bits and pieces that were squeezed in between. In retrospect it'd would have been good to get on something hard that was less bouldery and/or done some more volume.
Full Magical Mystery tour 6b/S1/XS 5c R, Berry Head. Shit conditions for trying anything hard (light rain all day) so thought I'd just try and do the full 2km magical mystery tour, with vague plans of trying to link it in to Wizard of Oz to make the ultimate dws trav. Completely epic and totally fucked by the end of MMT with no way Id have had any hope of doing WoO. High/low light would be committing to a horrendous, high trav on shale above a big boulder. There was hope on the horizon in the form of a good looking down climb but when I got there I gave some of the holds a tentative kick and they all fell off, so had to reverse the shale trav. Super spicy.
Bronski Beat 7b, Berry Head. Another pristine number from Ken. Description in the guide is a total sandbag as it makes the top sound like a romp whereas the crux is right at the end! Made for a good DWS experience though.
Jehova Kill 7b, London Bridge. I'd chickened out of doing this in the past so nice to get it done this year. Definitely helped having some team psyche. Hope nobody pulls off the clock at the bottom of the groove!
Top spankings
Gritstone. Im seemingly incapable of getting up anything actually hard on grit if there isn't some trickery involved.
Cutlass. Put in quite a few days on this in the end and made some progress but didn't really get particularly close. Quite a frustrating route to try as I find the move to the pocket pretty droppable and then it's very bouldery from there so you don't get to do a lot of climbing per splashdown.
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Gritstone. Im seemingly incapable of getting up anything actually hard on grit if there isn't some trickery involved.
Not sure I’ve done anything in grit where there wasn’t at least some subtle trickery to be had!
Is there a ‘right way’ to go on Magical Mystery that would have avoided shale, or would the other option be swimming? One of those that lurks on the lifetime ticklist!
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First Time posting on this thread, For some reason i find myself with some extra time on my hands.
90% of my climbing is F.A's cleaning and developing so my tick list pretty much reflects this-
Top 3 F.A-
Rooftown,Strathnairn
Count Duckula- Long lip traverse of the Danger Mouse Roof, has a spicy "fall down the hill like a rag-doll" start to a cruxy left arete finish.
Stilletto- The long lip traverse of the Danger Mouse roof going the other way, Follows Donnie Murdo and keeps going to a Nasty mantle finish above Baron Greenback. Robbie Phillips backed off this saying "Fucking Sandbag" hahahaha
Slotless Extension- A really good link up on the £25 Bloc, Chuffed with this as its powerful and sequency, Got the Heavy Send.
Top 3 repeats-
Just before the first Lockdown
Blackjack 7a, Benjy's ridiculous one move, one hand catch Dyno on the £25 Bloc. 3* problem
Neg Prog 7a+, The now infamous and well traveled line on the Wobble Bloc. This took a few sessions{as usual} . Lock-down happened a week later.
The Very Big Lebowski f7c at Ruthven. Bit of a surprise tick as my back was fucked, I suspect it's NOT 7c....Cause i cant climb 7c even when i'm on top form.
I get Spanked on everything i climb so its hard to pin it down to just 3.
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You lot are amazing, I feel like I must be wasting so much time non-productively by comparison...
Climbing
Errr..
Least productive climbing year for a very long time I’d say, for a variety of reason. But the highlights...
Moving to the Peak, at least I’m well positioned to start climbing again.
Meeting up with Dan and Tom, just amazing to see these two again.
Walking to Burbage North from my house for a spot of easy solo/highball action.
Non climbing
Went snowboarding for the first time in years, was amazing obviously. Why did I ever stop doing this??
Developed a couple of new sporting interests (road bike, MTB and fell running), maybe I’m not a “climber” anymore, just someone who climbs...
Work and life (notwithstanding Covid related restrictions) infinitely better than 2019, future looks good.
And Duma I agree, Sacre Coure is outstanding. I did it a few years ago and it still sticks out in my mind.
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And Duma I agree, Sacre Coure is outstanding. I did it a few years ago and it still sticks out in my mind.
Just brilliant isn't it? We ran out of time/tide for Jamaican Dub, but I'd like to go back for that too.
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Had virtually written off training and any productive climbing at the start of the year thanks to 4hrs+ of daily commuting, the effect of train beers, etc. Was in shit shape when I could be bothered to visit the jammed sandstone early summer. But then got resyked, so help with a training plan, and ended up feeling pretty good, albeit too fat. Generally lack of climbing success was mainly down to the latter, which I’m quite excited about redressing now...
Best climbing experiences
Light blue circuit at Rocher Canon - daughter and I did most of this over a couple of days in August. Note to self - always start Font trips with circuits like this rather than get lured by individual problems
Red circuit at Apremont Envers. Managed slightly less of this, but what we did was really good.
Generally exploring new places (to us) in Font, inc Roche aux Oiseau, Cuvier Est and Rempart, and JA Martin.
Top spankings
I basically refused to acknowledge that I should try easier things, so just about everything this year was a spanking.
Le Bivouac, Cuvier Est - I like to think I might’ve flashed this on a good day. Hadn’t studied the videos carefully, failed to spot the heel potential on the first move, sweated like a pig.
Graviton, Sabots - Nearly did this last time. Was hoping the inside right heel beta was going to help trick my way up it, but it just felt desperate.
Salathe Wall, Rempart - I slapped the crimp below the top loads of times, but couldn’t catch it. Children were extremely patient that afternoon.
Other climbing
Daugher and I had two fun trips to the Churnet and one fun day at Anston Stones. More of this when we’re allowed please.
No trad, a tiny bit of local sandstone (hordes then weather spoiled this), one sport trip to Cheddar which resulted in meltdown / vowing to sell my gear on eBay for 48 hours.
Other stuff
Some decent MTB days out on the South Downs Way. Have kind of lost the appetite for hairy scary mountain biking, and seem to now prefer pottering on picturesque trails equipped with a luxury picnic. Did a bit of road biking but managed to avoid getting sucked back in.
Had some help with training plan in the second half of the year and was rewarded with great progress and lots of syke.
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Is there a ‘right way’ to go on Magical Mystery that would have avoided shale, or would the other option be swimming? One of those that lurks on the lifetime ticklist!
On that particular section (near-ish to the beginning of part 4) there's a low way that turned out to be steady, just didn't look it which is why I tried the high way.
For me I found part 4 quite a bit more adventurous than the other bits, rock quality is definitely a bit softer. Having said that I wouldn't let it put you off, it's generally pretty easy to swim sections if you don't fancy it, and there's reasonable water under quite a few of the harder/chossier sections so you can try it relative safety.
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For climbing hard 2020 was by best year to date.
Guy-trains-for-first-time-in-life-and-has-best-climbing-year-ever shocker.
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As with the yearly aims, I haven’t partaken before but since I enjoy reading other’s entries (definitely the best thread of the year!) I thought I should do so. It’s been good looking through the logbook to pick out these.
Top three six trad
With the dearth of options available for me in the sport and bouldering lists, I’ve borrowed some of my allocated routes from there and added them in here (hope that’s okay with you jwi :))
Premonition and Bloodlust Direct, Sheigra. Impossible to decide between them, so they can both go in. The best of many highlights from 12 days in the North West of Scotland. Sheigra is top of the list for places to visit again next year for me – perfect rock, beautiful place, and jugs everywhere to make me feel like a hero. How climbing feels in my dreams.
Slanted & Enchanted, Baslow. For a very brief moment, it all came together and I remembered how to do it. Made more memorable by falling off on my first go and ripping two of my three pieces (including the one which I thought was so good that I would go for it!). If a side-ways wire had come out, then this would be in the top spankings list. A power terror scream for the final jug and a wave of euphoria.
Beyond the Beyond, the Range (Anglesey). Definitely the least conventionally classic on the list. Marie told me that she quite likes climbing on choss, which I took at face value. Knowing what she’s like, I should really have been more circumspect in how energetic I was in persuading her to abseil in to belay me on this. As with much of Anglesey’s best quality low-quality, the rock is comprised of very hard bits which are too brittle to be trustworthy, held in place by talcy-mud which is too soft to be trustworthy. If only they had shared out their quota of hardness it would be a very different medium. Marie pulled off three holds as she seconded (with much cursing of both me and the rock), and I later discovered that I had gone the wrong way and made it much harder for both of us.
Ivory Tower (Kinder South) and East Rib (Shining Clough). Two moorland grit routes from two different crags, both great days out with Marie and Cheque. I've really fallen for moorland grit trad in the last few years: the long walk-ins, relative quiet and remoteness, gritty rock, weird features, sweat, racing back for fish and chips from the Ranmoor Friery (best chip shop for vegetarians in Sheffield btw). Oh for it to be summer!
Top three one sport
Three?! Ha! I was too injured for most of the year, but I did do Supercrack at Lorry Park Quarry which I thought was fantastic
Top three two bouldering
Both from the very start of the year (before I was injured)
Bin Laden’s Cave, Gardoms. How did I never do this before? Great. And soft
HMS Daring, Birchen. Tried and failed a few years ago. Team psyche, lots of pads, and the send train having already left the station meant I had no choice but to try really hard to keep face.
Top spankings
The tides on Old Man of Stoer. Having done it before, I could confidently explain to Marie that the ledge at the bottom is above the high tide line. In response to her protestations that the tide line appears to be above the edge of the ledge (that, in retrospect, actually made a lot of sense and I’m not sure why I ignored them) I affected a well-rehearsed tone of ‘I’m the expert here’ confidence and we left our gear at the base of the stack. All went well (in fact, if I were permitted seven, this could have made it into the top trad routes list), until abseiling back to the base when I had to rescue Marie’s shoes and my swimming clothes which were being dragged out by the encroaching waves!
Ignis Fatuus, Agden Rocher. Having previously built up quite a credit belaying Cheque when he has been beleaguered on some route or another, I used these credits up when I began a prolonged battle with this piece of shit (it’s actually good, in an Agden Rocher kind of way). After much a to do I decided that discretion is the better part of valour and hastily retreated, muttering about all the gear being barely bodyweight. Cheque ab’d for my gear and judged it all as ‘good’. Ho hum.
Walking in to Carn Mor. Walked in through rain and midges for 13 miles with three days of food plus all our kit. It rained and the air hummed with midges. We walked out for 13 miles with two days of food plus all our kit.
Golfer’s elbow. Did I mention that I was injured throughout most of the year?
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Yo Reeve, where is Beyond The Beyond?? Can't find it in t'book.
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I knew that if anyone asked about that route, it would have to be you :)
It's an indirect start to a right hand finish of One Step Beyond, although that description makes it sound rubbish so I omitted it from my previous description! It's on UKC if you're allowed to look there: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_range-671/beyond_the_beyond-460580 I am still a bit confused about what I climbed that day but I think I basically did OSB until where it meets BtB, then followed BtB for the top bit (basically stepping right earlier to get onto the overhanging part earlier).
Edit: just to be clear, it isn't in the book but you can work it out from the description on UKC, except I think the description gets its left and right mixed up at one point which doesn't help the situation.
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Cheers, sounds typically charming. I :wub: The Range
Also....
you can work it out from the description on UKC, except I think the description gets its left and right mixed up at one point which doesn't help the situation.
:lol:
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The crag was unpleasantly crowded and I won’t be going back until the Bristol climbing walls have reopened.
Love it when someone drives from London and then complains that the locals are making the crag busy
Hey, I'm from Bleadon! I'm a lot more local than grockles from Bristol ;)
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the rock is comprised of very hard bits which are too brittle to be trustworthy, held in place by talcy-mud which is too soft to be trustworthy.
:lol: sounds like my idea of hell
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[Sacre Coure is ...]
Just brilliant isn't it? We ran out of time/tide for Jamaican Dub, but I'd like to go back for that too.
The Archtempter is well worth doing if you do go back. Same grade but very different character to Jamaican Dub - a steep corner, a bit loose and scary, but brilliant. Non-tidal too.
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Addendum / post-script. I completely forgot about last winter's grit bouldering, partly because of the shitting lockdown redefining the year, but partly because really a climber's year is defined by the seasons anyway rather than any arbitrary nonsense like calendars. It turns out I did some great bloques then so...
Top 3 Grit Bloques Last Winter:
Hours Of Practise, West Nab - WESTSIDE - done in about 10 minutes and very nearly flashed due to cheatingly perfect conditions, a wee eliminate slab but it was the best bit of climbing I did all season, with a wonderful "falling upwards" finish.
Rudolph, Shipley Glen - YORKSIDE - just really cool and committing and intimate to do it on my own, with the best finishing hold around. Bryony's Arete at Hitching Stone a verrrry close second.
Dark Horse Direct, Bank Quarry - EASTSIDE - aka Back Street Abortionist - what a line, what a problem, what a shark wrestle of a challenge for me. Varied and action-packed and sneaked in on a day when the main Peak was rain-swept. Peaches And Crust at Shining Cliff a verrrrry close second (hardest thing I did all winter, a fierce fight in a light snow shower). English Voodoo at Gardoms third and a decades old inspiration of Ten Inch Zombies fourth.
Edit: Barrows the Range and South Stack is absolutely full of kneebars. Albeit mostly between brittle quartz fins embedded in talc.
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Grasshopper 7C+, Stronstrey Bank this traverses via a crossover into and then up Noisy Cricket 7C. I’d managed to do NC in a session (!) but the move after the crossover was powerful - and hard - and then you had to do some fairly stiff pulling to get to the top. It took two sessions - but it was super satisfying to figure out my own way of doing it, working out where I was going wrong and figuring a way to overcome it. Something Pete Robins said in Grimers Podcast about climbing smarter rang true for me with this. First of the grade for me - and its probably soft - but felt like a real achievement, and that the hard work training had paid off.
Was it originally graded as an eliminate, without foot locks / heel- toes? That was my thought after a morning's work.
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Top 3 grit
- Zoo York, 8A. In early 2020, I finally climbed Zoo York. I have been trying to send my project route for 4 years. I am sorry that it took so long. I am proud of myself for doing my lifetime project. I had a fun time bouldering. I will enjoy my golden years.
ZY has been right at the top of my dream list since I first stumbled across it whilst exploring Caley, for 7As, in 2013. And now, it is done. A big fat YYFY.
- Ben’s Groove Sit Start, 7C+. Number 2 on my dream list. YYFY.
- Crucifix Wall Eliminate, 7A, Almscliff. The wall literally left of Crucifix. Tried it loads in the past and genuinely thought it was unclimbable since the sloper is so polished. Anyway, I eventually figured out that with a magical, barn doory, deadpoint, it is possible to fall rightwards into the only position that the sloper works. The psyche was unreasonably high when it first stuck. A 3 star experience on a 0 star climb eliminate.
Top 3 limestone
- Ribtickler 7C+
- Under The Greenwood Tree 7C+
- Mr Meseeks 7B+ / A6 Girls 7C
I wrote these last and I'm bored of my writing. Great problems. Limestone bouldering FTW.
Top 3 other
- Malc’s Arete, 7B. Torridon was the silver lining after a shitty lockdown and cancelling a big trip to America.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-HIStTHQe4
- Squelch SS 6C+. "Watch me Darling"
- North Face Direct 5+ / Katie’s Arete 5+ / The Dandy Don's Arete 6B / all the low grade highballs at Torridon. Fuck me all those problems are brilliant.
Top 3 crag moments
- Eskdale (Will Hunt has already mentioned this, but whatever.)
Strong George was, uncharacteristically, getting spanked on Rob’s Wall 7A+, the birthday boy rocks up and casually flashes it as his strongest flash by a long way. Sterling effort, big psyche. 8c Jim arrives, puts in a good flash effort but peels off the top. He then mutters the immortal words “it’s piss up to there, probably only about 6B”. An hour, and 20 goes, later and 8c Jim can’t get back to his original high point and has to call it a day ;D
- Cliff siege. Watching my friend climb DWR, for his first of the grade, after a good ol' fashion siege and a couple of sessions dropping the undroppable! It finally went down with an unnecessarily wild slap to the top. I’d almost given up bringing send beer for him.
- January Peak weekend. Pre-pandemic weekend trip to the Peak with a hot tub and a good crowd. Finished the weekend by stumbling across those perfect gritstone problems at the far end of Curbar crag, past Art of Japan, just as the sun was setting. Bliss.
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Honoured that my world class hubris at Robs Wall has made it into two "best moments of the year" lists.
I went and finished off those problems in the Trench at Curbar today. So good!
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How did you do that bastard lanky super-sandbag one in the middle that stars off two decent holds and then requires a Will Hunt / Tomtom manoeuvre to reach the next hangable sloper, a few different postcodes above??
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I believe you're referring to the sandbag Trench Flakes at 6B+? Flick left hand to hidden undercut after getting first sloper with right hand. Brilliant sequence and a good idea to try it soon, was mint on them slopers today.
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the rock is comprised of very hard bits which are too brittle to be trustworthy, held in place by talcy-mud which is too soft to be trustworthy.
:lol: sounds like my idea of hell
I'd love to trick you into doing some more trad with me - ideally choss obvs - but sadly I suspect that you're less suceptible to being conned into it than Marie is
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I believe you're referring to the sandbag Trench Flakes at 6B+? Flick left hand to hidden undercut after getting first sloper with right hand. Brilliant sequence and a good idea to try it soon, was mint on them slopers today.
Christ. I was trying it on a day that was so cold and windy any climbing felt like flirting with injury, and still couldn't imagine holding that first "sloper". Still it's a nice enough spot I guess I'll keep dabbling on it through the years.
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I love reading about all your adventures, glories and heartbreaks on here, thanks everyone. I also am grateful for this opportunity to remember all the 'wins' of the year, it definitely cheers me up.
Top Sport
A trio of Yorkshire 8a+'s:
Supercool The climbing is just fantastic. It was a strange experience as I ended up being filmed for TV and the chosen day was pretty much a write-off due to seepage. Thankfully they seemed pretty happy with 'big fall' footage. Got the actual send on my next session when the route dried back briefly.
Mandela Wow, I never imagined that I would ever be able to climb this. I made good progress after lockdown no 1 but heavy rain stopped play. One day we were driving past Kilnsey and it looked loads drier so I had a 'quick look to refamiliarise' and snuck up on it. Loved taking the victory whip!
Love Sculpture Best route at Yew Cogar? Three tough boulder problems separated by good rests, a perfect route for applying my lockdown no 1 board training. I was really chuffed to climb this as my health was really bad for a couple of months and there were too many days missed when I was out of action.
Holiday Sport
OK, this is a cheat because we didn't have any holidays this year.... But Wales always feels like a holiday...
The Waiting Game I nearly put this on my top spankings list (again) but I did actually climb it in the end... 'only' 8a but boy did it put up a fight! Lost track of how many times I dropped the last move! Also feels sacrilegious to spend that much time on such a short bit of rock on a cliff like the Diamond. Great climbing though.
The Shining Supposedly the same grade as the waiting game? But incomparable I suppose. A huge pitch of technical endurance, fine position especially in the evening light. Undoubtedly soft and a bit of an ego boost after TWG.
Battle of the Little Big Orme The last of the classic LPT 8a's on my list after climbing most of them last year. Great fun with plenty of kneebar action.
Top Limestone Boulders
Not Bad Dave, Woodwell Pre lockdown send, technically my hardest tick of the year. Took a while to get the heel to work.
Ned's sit, Trowbarrow The first move took sooooo long to figure out. Then it just clicked. The moves on the stand are some of the most funky, class problem.
Sugarfix sit, Warton Think I made this easier with a kneebar so 7B+ only... In a session though. Beautiful place to boulder with stunning views across the bay.
Top grit boulders
Hmmmm.... I'm definitely out of practice at this! However, I ticked 3 problems that had repelled me in previous years:
Sweet Dreams stand, Rocky Valley Dropped the top out in the dark, did it first try next session.
Who Are We Without Moon stand, Baildon Bank
Scary last moves, might have squealed a bit on this!
Slapstick Arete sit, Caley crag I have recollections of being frustrated on this year's ago, but did it in a couple of tries last month. Very aesthetic sequence.
Top spankings
The Keel So close! Had this all lined up, only to be thwarted by two bouts of pulled neck, several bad health days, some inclement weather and finally covid tier restrictions.
Hannibal Only had one session on this, managed the 7B+ cop out up the corner but too tired to seal the deal on the proper finish and didn't get back to Tom's Roof.
The Power and the Glory / Glorified Finish, Yew Cogar This has a stupidly hard and run out crux, I never felt good on the dry days unfortunately. The one that got away off my sport list.
Can't believe I did no trad whatsoever in 2020!! But we did loads of DIY, reignited our love for our board and got a wonderful kitten. All in all, can't complain.
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Top 3 Wales
Roof of a Baby Buddha https://vimeo.com/457315857
Special K
https://vimeo.com/459974754
Inkerman
Top 3 Lakes
Grand Opera
https://vimeo.com/456371627
Stella
https://vimeo.com/439824827
Coconutter
Top 3 Peak (Apparently I only go to the peak for the lime...)
Hannible
https://vimeo.com/444734522
Pink Indians
Cave Problem
Top 3 Yorkshire (only went to two crags...)
The Keel
https://vimeo.com/396180676
Underhand
Karjala
Top 3 Spankings
Flick of the Wrist
Came off hand over the jug at least once and it derailed my decent form in Sept-Oct after investing 5 sessions then the weather capping out.
The Punk SS
Did the stand quickly in January, went back to try the sit in November, could do the sit moves easy but couldn't touch the stand anymore...
My legs after doing Lad Stones and Sampson Stones in one day...
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Top 3 Boulder
Tufa Line V8/9
What a fantastic line. Desperatley hard, somehow surprised myself up it on 2nd session this year. Had tried it twice before but with 3 years between visits, kind of hard to remember beta.
(https://i.imgur.com/nspa5PW.jpg)
Running On Empty V7
Tried this on and off over the years, fantastic roll-over move.
(https://i.imgur.com/23La9oZ.jpg)
Cry Baby V8
Very picturesque bloc at a micro-crag. Was put up a few years ago, with me doing the 2nd ascent. Has since had 2 more repeats with both of them sayings its the best V8 in Sydney.
Was pretty happy with the video too.
https://vimeo.com/484577501
(https://i.imgur.com/t0uTK1Z.jpg)
Top FAs
Made better by actually walking a post-fire crag I found years ago. Found some of the best lines around.
Lolly Pop Cyclops V4/5
Just a fantastic feature with awesome balancey moves.
(https://i.imgur.com/CeCsZt0.jpg)
1841 V5/6
Somehow walked right past this 7 years ago! Aren't you glad when your tastes change?
https://www.instagram.com/p/CCQkneHjdG7Sg5c652v-p8bLyvxFudyGhH34HE0/
Top spanking
There were some others that I spend way more time on but nothing compares to the biggest bouldering fall I've ever seen in person, let alone taken.
(https://i.imgur.com/C12nXPg.png)
Highly recommend clicking through for the clip with the sound up.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDZ1jO7Dp4WCqgYdTfgh574-OrbkRxSWY2wIiU0/
This was the first attempt without a rope and with someone else there. I had built what I thought would be a adequate landing for the 4 pads used, turns out I was wrong. Fell out a bit further than expected, caught right foot on the edge of a pad and left foot on a large sloping rock, these flipped me upside down into a fallen tree.
Thought I shook out for much longer at the break just below the fall, messed foot placement up for the top, glad I came off where I did because the next move was a right heel hook which would've put me straight onto the rock to the left.
Got away extremely lightly. Only injuries at the time were pretty well sprained ankle, some good whiplash and getting stabbed a bunch of times by the fallen tree. Within a few weeks I came to the conclusion that I'd fractured at least one metatarsal as well, which is still plaguing me one and off since August.
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I'd love to trick you into doing some more trad with me - ideally choss obvs - but sadly I suspect that you're less suceptible to being conned into it than Marie is
I hated choss even when I was a trad climber! If you trick me into trading again I reckon it'll be Pembroke or similar.. though Ella and I could both be keen for eye of the tiger and final round if you fancy dovedale and the pandemic allows...
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My list seems a bit lowly compared to some of the impressive lists on here, but it’ll do for me....for now.
The problem with returning to climbing after a long break is that all those things you used to warm up on now become multi visit sieges and there aren’t many problems at easier grades that I didn’t do twenty odd years ago.
It’s also only been this year that I’ve grown to love going out again.
3 Problems I've never done before (which to be honest are thin on the ground)
1. Eat the Light at West Chevin. Tried this in May and fingers were in no way strong enough but went back in May and it went fairly quickly.
2. Precious Things, more of a campus session than a problem.
3. Mickey Luv, not the best problem but the conditions and lighting were just phenomenal.
3 Problems I've not done for fifteen years but repeated this year
1. Whisky Galore, always a favourite and I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve done this in the past. Have used lots of sequences over the years, just whatever worked best on a particular day.
2. Si’s Arête, took a few trips and think the foothold at the start is bigger than it used to be. Worked lots of sequences and got the tick on a cooler day.
3. Manson’s Wall, close to giving up and then found the ear that you use rather than a two finger crozzly pocket. Always loved this problem.
3 Crags I've never been to before this year
1. Buckstone Edge, really local and pottered up there quite a lot this year on days when I just wanted to be outside
2. Lindley Moor, even more local and most definitely esoteric.
3. West Chevin, can’t believe I’d never been here before, think it’s great.
Actually had a few more, with Norwood, Shaftoe, Holmfirth, West Nab as well.
3 Spankings
First two are also crags I’ve never been to before.
1. Shaftoe, drove up for a day out and virtually didn’t get up a problem between us. Looking at YouTube, we used some of the worst sequences ever, but still got a beating.
2. Norwood Edge, took a hiding on the boulder we intended to warm up on. Will go back for more.
3. Silver Trout without block or toe hook. So many attempts, so close and yet so far.
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Good cold day helps for silver Trout. One of those that (with the toe around the corner) feels really really soft when you get it. But spits lots of folk off.
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Good cold day helps for silver Trout. One of those that (with the toe around the corner) feels really really soft when you get it. But spits lots of folk off.
Will take your advice and hopefully get it done over the winter. Thank you.
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I hated choss even when I was a trad climber! If you trick me into trading again I reckon it'll be Pembroke or similar.. though Ella and I could both be keen for eye of the tiger and final round if you fancy dovedale and the pandemic allows...
North Pembroke tho. Amazing stuff there. Get up something at Rainbow Zawn and you'll remember it on your deathbed no matter how much counselling you have after. Don't get up something there and the deathbed will be a lot sooner....
Gollum, fatneck is your man for silver trout I'd have thought??
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Great reading over these posts, and also to look back over the year and remind myself of the long summer days after the first lockdown where there was time to get out and have a boulder, go for a cycle and cool off with a swim. There were some nice things about 2020 after all.
Top 3 sport routes abroad
Father and Son, Frankenjura
It was such a stroke of good fortune to be able to snatch a trip abroad between restrictions this year and this was one of those classic days that will stick in the mind forever. Top company at the crag with Sam W unable to hold back from throwing himself at his project on his Nth day on, everyone ticking and plenty of banter. Something I've missed a lot this year during socially distant crag sessions. Plus, this was a butter-soft graded route that I did second go, making up a sequence on the hoof. Proof that Barrows is an idiot, and that you shouldn't over-work everything before RPs.
L'Espiadimonis, Margalef
Climbed almost exactly a year ago. After nearly ticking this in a day four years back I was keen to finish it off. The day was misty and freezing; Jules was having a miserable time at the crag. It was incredibly satisfying to snatch this on the "last go, again" after my four previous RPs were ruined due to poor beta. Proof that Barrows is right and you should get an optimal sequence before RPs.
Aitzol, Margalef
Been meaning to do this for years, but you know there are those routes that intimidate you for no good reason? That look foreboding, or seem to have impossible cruxes. This is one of those for me. Graded easier than the two above, but I found it harder and was quite surprised to actually do it. Climbing, eh?
Top 3 Sport (UK)
All at Lorry Park. Spent some time here this summer working my way from right-to-left. Really enjoyed the style of climbing here; vert but not grim.
Dark Matter
An 8b with a crux at the top which is on easy climbing, if that makes any sense. Satisfying.
Confidence Trick
Bit of an odd one to include here since it's really a 7c with one hard move, but I loved it. The easier climbing is really cool and it's a rare thing indeed to find a one move, slab 8a+ with a nice crux move.
Ground Zero
Took me four days to climb a 7c+ but it's a really good one. Climbing, eh?
Top 3 Boulders
Superman
End of an era for me. Came so close years back before it broke, but not been able to get near it since. Bit of gym work over lockdown and some sneaky heal tech made the difference. My first proper 8b boulder and it was really nice in the end to not use the intermediate - that I had persuaded myself was legit because Ben uses it in One Summer...
Gulliver's Travels, Church
The first thing I did after lockdown ended. Maybe because of that, or maybe there's just something really nice about the climbing on this but one of my fave problems ever.
Infinite Suspense, Tideswell
The second thing I did after lockdown. Beautiful climbing, gorgeous spot and just high enough.
Top 3 Spankings
Intercooler, FJ
Everything I hate about failing in one route; dropped the last move on my first RP and got into what I call "Andy Murray" mood, where you become progressively angrier with yourself with every go. Injured my elbow on the second RP and should have walked away but due to self-loathing continued to hurl myself at it, buggering elbow in the process. Idiot.
Keen Roof, Tor
It's only 8a, blah, blah. Why can't I do this? Most days I can piss the move in isolation even when tired, but always drop it on the link. Then, at random, come spells when I can't touch the move. Why? Why? Damn this problem to hell.
Everything since October
Took a three week break at the end of October and haven't been able to climb since. Only just starting to be capable of climbing harder than 7A...
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I hated choss even when I was a trad climber! If you trick me into trading again I reckon it'll be Pembroke or similar.. though Ella and I could both be keen for eye of the tiger and final round if you fancy dovedale and the pandemic allows...
North Pembroke tho. Amazing stuff there. Get up something at Rainbow Zawn and you'll remember it on your deathbed no matter how much counselling you have after. Don't get up something there and the deathbed will be a lot sooner....
Some great choss in south Pembs too. You don’t even have to go to the Range West briefing to find it either. Most horrific thing I’ve ever climbed is in South Pembroke.
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Top 3 Alpine Boulders
Tommy's Arete V7, Lower Chaos - Definitely in my top 5 list of all time and best thing I've done in CO
https://youtu.be/LykNA2QzrTQ
Windy in a Basket V7, Upper Chaos - Such a good line and set of moves on this one
https://youtu.be/XGrM0jttSyY
Ball That Jack V5, Camp Dick - Early season mission to a snowy Camp Dick, maybe the best V5 in CO?!?
https://youtu.be/jhQCafqG7OU
Top 2 Front Range Boulders - Injuries prevented me doing others quite as good
41st Street V7, Clear Creek Canyon - Amazing rock and movement on this stout boulder
https://youtu.be/PehXsKVZJaI
Turning Point V8, Satellites - One of the first boulders I touched moving to CO, good to put it down
https://youtu.be/vlmD1ogsXxI
Top 3 Other Boulders
All in Joe's Valley:
- Wills of Fire V6 - Mega classic boulder deserved of reputation even if it did injure me in the send
- Great White V6 - Unique shaped boulder that climbs very well, applause from the campsite added to the experience
- Maxipad V6 - Basic and powerful, the dream.
https://youtu.be/sYjEnHllft4
Top 3 Spankings
Injuries - Off for 4 months of the year with injuries and the remaining 8 spent trying (and failing) to recover and get back to form. Keen to see what I can do in this country when I'm fit
Ludder's Pinch V6, Mount Evans - Nails boulder, could not touch it...
Face Full of Brian V8, Satellites - Saw a weather window on the radar and threw myself at this boulder to zero success. Close, a lot.
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Some great reads on here
I has 5 months off with tennis elbow between mid March and mid August where I couldn't climb, lift weights or even ride a bike for more than 30 minutes so something of a shorter year to chose from.
I didn't do any routes or go abroad but I did go to Woodhouse Scar once
Top 3 problems
The Rib Burbage South. It must have been at least 15 or 16 years ago that I first tried it - possibly longer. I don't remember being that excited on topping out a problem. I was just like a little kid.
Kidneystone Gardoms. I spent far too many sessions on this, but it did feel great when I did it.
Faith LH Roche Abbey. I put this in but it could have been lots of the problems on the brilliant rock there. The rock is so good on the top bit though like Nai said. I only came here for the first time in November and even when its been wet or even raining the rock has always felt dry and grippy over the last few weeks. It is strange though when a convoy of 4x4s turn up then a few minutes later you hear the echoing of gunshot as men with short hair and green jackets shoot things "for fun". Its also strange when a teenage lad and 2 other people who turned out to be his keyworkers turn up , walk up to beef buttress and spend an hour digging up the earth with sticks a few yards away. They were all very friendly though, asking me about climbing and I think all 4 of us had a good hour together. Its also strange when you're about to pull on only to hear someone who has no idea that you're there shout "fuckin ell I nearly fuckin pissed misen" followed by the sound of a small stream 30 yards away. I like Roche Abbey.
Top spanking. Gullivers travels at Church crag. I must have hit that hold at least 25 times, probably more. I just couldn't bloody do it, failing by increasingly small margins. I've got a video on my phone of me hitting and latching the hold, someone shouting "yes" only for me to yet again snatch defeat from the jaws of victory. This year though I might definitely do it.
Other stuff
I know it's lockdown cliche but I got really good at baking bread. Sourdough, wholemeal with seeds, flatbread, chapati, the lot. Managed to score 16kg of high protein Manitoban bread flour in November as well.
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All these in no particular order, and i'm having more than 3 for some
Trad:
- Desperate Dan, had a top rope, but hadn't done the crux when I was trying it. Was buzzing my face off at the top. Good psyche, great climbing. Exciting but reasonable with the coating of pads. Ace.
- Lost Horizon, baggy point Post lockdown breakout to Devon. Double ab approach, down crumbling paths, crowds watching from afar. Gripped for the entire thing. Pleasant, interesting, well protected climbing for almost 50m. Proper bo.
- Daytona wall direct. Long been on the to do list! Dirty headpoint again, the crux of daytona wall felt nails for a while, until I re-figured it out. Cow's mouth was actually busy the day I did it. One of those days where you climb as smooth as a smooth thing and all feels good in the world.
Time after time west chevin. E1 ish. A cool 6Aish boulder problem, to an escapable but ultimately comiting top out. I found this very rewarding, not sure why. Felt like uncovering a rarely climbed gem. Should get more traffic, and the top can be brushed easily. Get to it!
Grit Boulders:
- Horror arete. On the list for a decade, I did some of my first bouldering at the bridestones with a tea-towel but never pulled on. Sublime. Up there with the best problems I've ever done. Jump off tops it off. Magic. Buzzing on the top like on desperate dan.
- Mothership reconnection, thorn crag. Just before March lockdown. End of the day. Worked it out move by move. Took absolutely EVERYTHING I had to get up it. ALLEZ. Not the best problem i've done, but I really do like trying HARD.
- Brimham - had a bit a brimham blitz for a few weeks, highlights include murky rib (amazing moves) pair in a cubicle/the governor (fat sloper action at its best), pinky traverse (for making me think I can climb hard again), and finally ticking a couple of nemesis (Rachels box, black chipper arete).
Not grit boulders
- Rickshaw derider - Had a few failed attempts to visit Goyden when it was in condition and finally got it after trying hard! Went on to do some FAs at another crag afterwards and rounded it off up at alsmcliff as I was still psyched (if massively dehydrated). Proper good day.
-Neds problem (stand) Trowbarrow - Solo mission, warmed up on red wall. Came over to the boulder, got shut down on the 7A so had a sunbathe. Random suggested I get on this. Funky moves, toes hooks, heel hooks, rock over, slopers, crimps. Classy as fuck and I felt like a hero climbing it. Top of my current grade too. Thanks for getting me on it and spotting me if you are reading this! (A guy and a younger Dr chap from liverpoolish on the 5th of Oct?).
- Cream traverse, Hound tor - After an ace day wombling round Hound tor with the Mrs, finally found this boulder. Nearly got the flash, and then had a battle to get back round the corner again! This was my post phd holiday and first holiday in a looooooong time. This problem was the cherry on the top of all that. Climbing quality problems from f3 to f7B(ish) on boss rock, I felt like a kiddy in a sweet shop with some poor bastards credit card.
New (to me) crags
- Thorn crag, you all know its good, but im gonna tell you again. It. Is. Good. Inspired to visit by a purchase of the lancashire bouldering guide, top stuff!
- Stony edge. The less vistied cousin of blackstone edge. Great day, some of the rock needs a brush, but loads of low 7s to go at, and the location is lovely. I'll be back on a less windy day (see spankings). Sponsored again by the Lancs guide.
- West chevin - a secret gem in the woods. My escape during lockdown, from early morning sessions to solo lamp sessions among the rope swings (felt like I was in a horror film!). I'm not good with words, but this place made me feel good again after not leaving the house. Under-rated venue.
Spankings theres a few...
- Fight on black. Two sessions and just holes in my finger to show for it. One day...
- Bull rider, attermire. Dropped the 'Easy' end repeatedly, now tis lost to the cows
- Sin Fein (E5), healaugh. Went on a windy day, thought I would piss it. Did the crux once on TR and couldnt do it again. Left a wire. Had a strop. Shitshow all round!
- Beast in the field, shelter cliff. IT WILL GO. One day. it will. I swear it. It better. Now between my house and work, so if we are ever back in the office, I will siege it. It will go... etc. etc.
- Roundhill The walk in. Baltic and I stood in a f'ing puddle in my trainers. Climbed some (poor) 4s and 5s, one (good) 7A and called it a day after an hour as we were both frozen. Wear wellies and jumpers kids. You have been warned (as I was ...).
- Stony edge If its gusting 40, carrying a pad here is a solid workout. Met my mum on the walk out, and she wouldn't even carry it half way back for me (she might have ended up in littleborough to be fair)
Good year for boulders, but i didn't clip a single bolt. Soz for the essay
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- Mothership reconnection, thorn crag. Just before March lockdown. End of the day. Worked it out move by move. Took absolutely EVERYTHING I had to get up it. ALLEZ. Not the best problem i've done, but I really do like trying HARD.
It is a superb problem! I too had a real fight to get through the top when I got it! Overlooked problem - but one of the best in its grade that I've done.
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Maybe I am underselling mothership.
I fell off the top the go before I got it. I was broken. At least it was downhill on the way back! I love figuring out a problem bit by bit, its very satisfying. I thought it was better than 'and for my next trick', which seems more popular. Elemental was a proper 'have to climb it' line too.
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I fell off the top the go before I got it. I was broken. At least it was downhill on the way back! I love figuring out a problem bit by bit, its very satisfying. I thought it was better than 'and for my next trick', which seems more popular. Elemental was a proper 'have to climb it' line too.
FMNT is very different problem. MR is a right old grit wrestle!
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Post-March just getting out seemed like a win. Some memorable lockdown escape moments:
Solo trainer sessions on Brown's wall during initial panic, hiding every time walkers went past.
Walked out to the Head stone via Bell Hagg and Reddicar Clough, back via Redmires conduit on a beautiful spring afternoon.
Redmires was fine to drive to well before the Peak, nice walking out to Stanage and some big horizons.
First day we were allowed back in the Peak, full Plantation circuit with El Mocho, great nick and really quiet. Freedom!
Trad:
Gimmer in June - never made it up there before and just great to be on a big crag in the mountains. Surprisingly exposed. After a couple of warm-ups Jase ended up aid/resting his way up Eastern Hammer. Seconded clean by the skin of my teeth. Welsh E5?
Pembroke in late Sept - a dogs-with-two-dicks weekend rushing about. Firecracker was a bit of perfect rock, Wavelength a big line and a lengthy war of attrition against gopping morning rock.
Wilt, Ravensdale - seconding with only one rest felt like a win. Less said about Curbar the better, but was a worrying window into a crapper future.
Boulders
Some brilliant fun days out exploring BJ's new stuff at Wharncliffe, Bradley and Gardoms. New crag ticks/ Dad's days out at Crafnant and Goldsborough. On-sighting Back Street Abortionist a year ago today was about the best tick on-paper.
Retro-ticks
Did Chip Shop Brawl a bunch of times in the early noughties but an increasingly distant memory. Felt like a big tick in October. Burly, high, brilliant.
Fielder's wall, Baldstones. I forget whether I've previously done this since the big pebble broke, but either way it's over ten years ago and doesn't look like anyone else has managed it in the meantime. Hilarious filthy topout scenes.
I've done Shirley's many times, even once in trainers, but after some embarrassingly bad form over the summer this autumn's ascent was one of the most satisfying since the first time: first go, via the harder and more committing 'proper' finish, all while feeling fairly comfortable. An enduring test of skill.
Spankings
Greatly enjoyed cheerleading Cofe up his lifetime zenith Thick End of the Wedge. Didn't enjoy not doing it the session after, or the one after that. I don't remember spending 4+ sessions on anything ever other than my Careless ground-up (18+ years and ongoing, at least in my head). A month on I'm telling myself conditions were sub-optimal and I now have a local proj for lockdown 2...
Previous years' whinges put into context by this year and feel lucky to have weathered the Covid storm fairly well. Less work = better mental health perhaps not a surprise but definitely an opportunity to re-assess.
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Ali K didn't post his best of 2019 until May!
Writing this up in May last year was a bit lax! I did even less climbing in 2020 so it wasn't a lengthy task this time. The fire has definitely been burning less and less brightly the last few years. I haven't really trained properly since before my Oz trip in Spring 2019 and I can't really blame that on covid - think I just have to accept I'm going through one of my occasional periods where I'd just rather be doing anything other than climbing at the moment! Anyway...
Top 3 boulder problems / highballs
Little Red Riding Hood & A Company of Bad Wolves, Great Wolfrey - Felt like an absolute mission carrying pads all the way in not knowing how good the crag really was but totally worth it.
Malc's Arete, Torridon - As good as it looks. Thanks to whoever lugged a pallet underneath it.
Stu's Roof, Almscliff - Tried this on and off when I was bouldering a lot in Yorkshire around 15 years ago so it was nice to feel like I'd got better at climbing despite doing hardly any bouldering in between.
Top 5 sport routes
Love Sculpture, Yew Cogar - Had some great days down here while I was attempting to avoid the crowds at Kilnsey(!) and this was the best route I did. Such a beautiful setting for a crag.
Victorious, Victoria Cave, Attermire - Another peaceful crag in a lovely setting and a route that feels pretty unique. Thanks to Eddy for cleaning it up.
Predator, Malham - First Yorkshire 8b and the best route I've done at Malham. Thanks to Jim for preventing me doing an Ondra/Maskell on it.
Fated Path, Tunnel Wall, Glen Coe - Had a week up in Scotland in September with pretty perfect weather. Only had a few climbing days and this was the best of the lot. 40m of great sport climbing on something other than limestone. And no midges appeared!
Defcon 3, Gordale - Loved the variety on this. Had an early morning quick hit with the crag pretty much to ourselves and then I spent the afternoon belaying in the sun up at Stoney Bank.
Top 3 non-climbing stuff
- A few memorable long days out on the bike during the never-ending sunshine of lockdown. Most enjoyable was about 55miles past Fewston Reservoir and then over the tracks on top of Denton Moor and down and back up Ilkley Moor and then back past the Chevin.
- Finally committed to buying a house. Not a done deal but it's a very short simple chain so hopefully it'll go through ok. Actually enjoyed the process of it all so far and I'm very psyched to do a bit of work on it. Interested to see whether that enthusiasm survives first contact with reality. Paid £20k too much for it though, purely thanks to this forum! ;)
- Bivied in the most amazing spot on top of Bla Bheinn to watch the sunset and sunrise over the Cuillins. Think this was my favourite 24hr period in the whole of 2020.
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Highly recommend clicking through for the clip with the sound up.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDZ1jO7Dp4WCqgYdTfgh574-OrbkRxSWY2wIiU0/
Fuck me! Glad you got off lightly.
Nice pictures too, thanks for sharing.
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Not a bad year in the end and I didn't pick up any really debilitating injuries for most of the year which was good. I think I made some strength gains for the first time in years after coming out of the first lockdown but never really got super fit stamina-wise this year. Disappointing not to do any big limestone walls in the Alps (I am jealous of your list jwi!) but did some nice single pitch stuff.
Top boulders
Did a bit of bouldering up to 7B+ but nothing really memorable. The best was probably Happy Place (7A) at Zillagrund Wald in Zillertal.
Top 3 sport routes
Hoanata Galtling (8b/+) Schleierwasserfall - A crimpy lower wall with a cool sequence using a heel and undercuts leads to a big move and then 7c climbing with big moves/jumps between huecos in perfect grey limestone. Clipping the second draw mid-crux makes it a lot harder so in the end I opted to pre-clip which probably makes it 8b.
Crux sequence
https://youtu.be/IOcd9CRkdyg
Grand Salamandro (8a+) Candalla Bassa, Tuscany. Nice climbing culminating in a wild compression sequence at the top. Took me longer than expected (partly due to being ill) but I was happy to finish it by the skin of my teeth last try of the trip. This made it more memorable and the fact it was situated in a beautiful narrow valley with numerous small waterfalls.
https://youtu.be/lXz3eThgcvE
Ten' culo (8a) Val Lomasone (Arco). Really beautiful crag outside Arco. This had a techy and crimpy lower wall which I like but then an awesome headwall on small tufas. Really cool.
Top spanking
Hyperfreiflug (8a+) Martinswand. I have tried this route over 3 winters now and it has become my nemesis route! Previously I could have said that I only had the odd half hearted go on it or that the conditions were bad but this November I really put a concerted effort into finishing it off and still came away empty handed. It is a crimpy slightly overhanging wall climbing so I feel like it should suit me but somehow I just can't get up it!
Crux sequence
https://youtu.be/LaviI7D3lMA
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I've got no idea why the font size was so small when I first tried to post or why [size] is before every line but I cant be arsed to type it out again so...[/size][/size]
[/size]
[/size]Some great reads on here
[/size]I has 5 months off with tennis elbow between mid March and mid August where I couldn't climb, lift weights or even ride a bike for more than 30 minutes so something of a shorter year to chose from
[/size]I didn't do any routes or go abroad but I did go to Woodhouse Scar once
[/size]Top 3 problems
[/size]The Rib Burbage South. It must have been at least 15 or 16 years ago that I first tried it - possibly longer. I don't remember being that excited on topping out a problem. I was just like a little kid.
[/size]Kidnestone Gardoms. I spent far too many sessions on this, but it did feel great when I did it.
[/size]Faith LH Roche Abbey. I put this in but it could have been lots of the problems on the brilliant rock there. The rock is so good on the top bit though like Nai said. I only came here for the first time in November and even when its been wet or even raining the rock has always felt dry and grippy over the last few weeks. It is strange though when a convoy of 4x4s turn up then a few minutes later you hear the echoing of gunshot as men with short hair and green jackets shoot things "for fun". Its also strange when a teenage lad and 2 other people who turned out to be his keyworkers turn up , walk up to beef buttress and spend an hour digging up the earth with sticks a few yards away. They were all very friendly though, asking me about climbing and I think all 4 of us had a good hour together. Its also strange when you're about to pull on only to hear someone who has no idea that you're there shout "fuckin ell I nearly fuckin pissed misen" followed by the sound of a small stream 30 yards away. I like Roche Abbey.
[/size]Top spanking. Gullivers travels at Church crag. I must have hit that hold at least 25 times, probably more. I just couldnt bloody do it, failing by increasingly small margins. I've got a video on my phone of me hitting and latching the hold, someone shouting "yes" only for me to yet again snatch defeat from the jaws of victory. This year though I might definintely do it.
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I've got no idea why the font size was so small when I first tried to post or why [size] is before every line but I cant be arsed to type it out again so...[/size][/size]
[/size]
[/size]Some great reads on here
[/size]I has 5 months off with tennis elbow between mid March and mid August where I couldn't climb, lift weights or even ride a bike for more than 30 minutes so something of a shorter year to chose from
[/size]I didn't do any routes or go abroad but I did go to Woodhouse Scar once
[/size]Top 3 problems
[/size]The Rib Burbage South. It must have been at least 15 or 16 years ago that I first tried it - possibly longer. I don't remember being that excited on topping out a problem. I was just like a little kid.
[/size]Kidnestone Gardoms. I spent far too many sessions on this, but it did feel great when I did it.
[/size]Faith LH Roche Abbey. I put this in but it could have been lots of the problems on the brilliant rock there. The rock is so good on the top bit though like Nai said. I only came here for the first time in November and even when its been wet or even raining the rock has always felt dry and grippy over the last few weeks. It is strange though when a convoy of 4x4s turn up then a few minutes later you hear the echoing of gunshot as men with short hair and green jackets shoot things "for fun". Its also strange when a teenage lad and 2 other people who turned out to be his keyworkers turn up , walk up to beef buttress and spend an hour digging up the earth with sticks a few yards away. They were all very friendly though, asking me about climbing and I think all 4 of us had a good hour together. Its also strange when you're about to pull on only to hear someone who has no idea that you're there shout "fuckin ell I nearly fuckin pissed misen" followed by the sound of a small stream 30 yards away. I like Roche Abbey.
[/size]Top spanking. Gullivers travels at Church crag. I must have hit that hold at least 25 times, probably more. I just couldnt bloody do it, failing by increasingly small margins. I've got a video on my phone of me hitting and latching the hold, someone shouting "yes" only for me to yet again snatch defeat from the jaws of victory. This year though I might definintely do it.
Brilliant! ;D
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Obviously 2020 was a very difficult year for many people. I appreciate that I am very fortunate and in a way reviewing the climbing year feels very frivolous and self-indulgent. But here we go! The silver lining for me was having the time to get back into trad after a 10-year hiatus.
Top three Peak limestone trad:
Eye of the Tiger, Dovedale
The Golden Mile, Chee Tor
Castellan, High Tor
These were the top Peak limestone trad routes that I’d not tried back in the day. Safe to say I fell off all three! Getting on Golden Mile as my 5th trad lead of the year felt like pushing it, but I did it with one fall and was up and running. Castellan was as tough as expected and EOTT was unexpected as I was tired and fell very high on my first (headpoint) attempt.
Top three Peak gritstone trad:
Tin Drum, Curbar
The Crypt Trip, Stanage
White Water, Curbar
I tried Tin Drum GU years ago with a big team and took some exciting falls onto lots of pads. In May I got on a rope, cleaned the ferns out of it, then soloed it above two pads, sans spotters. It’s a 3-star micro route that sees little attention, partly because of the ferns and maybe because it’s a bit of a sandbag. In the autumn I had loads of time but things didn’t always come together, as I tried quite a few harder things on a rope and logistics were tricky (cycling out to the Peak is perhaps not the best preparation for leading E7s). Both Dave Mus and I headpointed Crypt Trip in a session in September (I’d tried it GU years ago). White Water terrified me when I first tried it, then I started thinking about it, went back and worked out a more secure sequence. The stars aligned and with extra pads appearing it was despatched highball-style on a cold November afternoon.
Top three trad abroad (Wales):
Jub Jub Bird, Rhoscolyn
Warpath, Rhoscolyn
Quickstep, Forwyn
I reconnected this summer with a climbing partner whom I did some of my best climbing with nearly 20 years ago. We had a brilliant weekend in Wales. Jub Jub Bird was the best of these three and my best lead of the year - totally pumped, 100% concentration, overbite clamped in place. Just as powerful as the climbing was the experience of climbing above the sea. I’d forgotten that feeling (watching Cheque’s wonderful film ‘The Seaside’ is as close as you can get to it without actually doing it).
Top three Peak boulder problems:
Under the Greenwood Tree, Lees
Batman, Crag X
Isla Grace, Froggatt
Nice to put to bed UTGT which I’d been close to last year. Batman was the only thing I got up at Crag X, though I did stick the first move of Hulk for the first time. Isla Grace at Froggatt is a highball which I climbed on my first post-Lockdown session. I was desperate for a bit of ‘risk’ I think. I didn’t do much Peak bouldering that resulted in success.
Top three boulder problems abroad (outside of the Peak):
Enchantress, Forest Rock
Four winds wall/J Mascis, Gouther
Timmy Tip Toes, Shaftoe
Forest Rock is unique. I did Enchantress at the start of January and really wanted to go back to try Heathen Chemistry again. Family trips to Shaftoe and the Lakes for the other ones. Really struggled with bouldering from the middle of the year onwards.
Top three Peak sport climbs:
Call of Nature, Raven Tor
The Squealer, Lorry Park Quarry
Garderobe, WCJ
Climbing 8a again was on my Aims 2020 list. I did Call of Nature in July and had a great evening visiting Lorry Park for the first time, managing to on-sight the Squealer. Garderobe was probably a better on sight, as the top was soaking wet.
Top spankings:
Lou Ferrino
Beau Geste
I hate to think how many sessions I’ve had on Lou Ferrino over the years and it’s a regular feature in my top spankings. I’d actually sacked it off and not tried it for a few years. Off the back of Lees sessions I felt stronger on burly compression moves and thought I’d have another look on a family holiday. 1st session I re-sorted the moves. 2nd session I got to the finishing hold/slot with my right, came up with my left to match and hold in control, then my left heel popped. So I did it, but didn’t. Gutted.
Beau Geste is not really a spanking, but I fell/jumped off after the crux as I was pumped/lost focus/scared. It was great to belay Dave Mus as he’d really wanted to do it for a long time and totally cruised it.
Top 3 races
Only did the Trigger (Marsden to Edale) in January, pretty much matching my time from 2019 (though worse conditions). This year, despite the experience from the previous race, I didn’t wear enough and couldn’t feel my hands for 3 hours. Luckily my laces didn’t come undone! I did a virtual half mara on a hilly course mid-Lockdown and got a PB.
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Trad
Heart of Darkness/New Morning - Mowingword. Fucking awesome, first trip to sea cliffs and loved it. Hard to pick a route from the trip as I basically thought every route I did was brilliant...
Great Western - Almscliff. Had spent a lot of days late spring/early summer going out to Almscliff and really didn't want to get on this and mess it up. Got told it was my lead with the sun setting and found myself underneath this. I think I barely stopped until I got into the niche giddy as owt. Romping up the 5 star finish and belaying looking out across Wharfedale was pretty special.
Comet Wall - Guisecliff. On one of the hottest days of the year. New crag to me although have MTB'd and done orienteering in Nidderdale since I was a kid and had been around here lots! Amazing position and the route wasn't even green.
Want to add a 4th of Scar at Baildon Bank. Tried this quite a few times last year and one of the only routes I've felt confident trying real hard without thinking about falling off. Eventually climbed it doing everything wrong, slapping to the wrong slot.
Bouldering
Manson's Wall - Shipley Glen. Spent a lot of evenings lamping here over winter and had tried this quite a lot, always with the crimps feeling slightly too small and slippy. Turned up on a crisp morning and did it first go without feeling like I'd even tried.
Gladiator - Rowantree Tor. Really enjoyed this day and this problem up a gritstone mushroom was the highlight.
Leftism - Ilkley High Crag. Great sequence and location.
Life
Buying our first home - daunted by how big a job it is to turn it into what we want but really excited too. Stressful process too with it touch and go whether we were going to be turfed out of our flat before completing here. It was something we said we wanted to do at the start of the year. Felt really unlikely at times - happy we managed this despite everything.
Great week in the Lake District with my girlfriend. Got out doing bigger walks than she has done before and gently reintroduced her to climbing after pushing her too much previously. She also suggested we go the 'scrambly way' up Crinkle Crags which isn't something I ever expected to hear from her even if it was maybe a step of Grade 1.
Week in Pembroke - so good to stay away from home with mates in a campsite, eating out to help out, climbing etc
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I don’t normally get involved in any of this but I’ll do anything for a break from home schooling. I’m definitely feeling the madness setting in after a tough year. To be fair I’ve climbed more consistently this year than the last few albeit mostly on a board though not as much as I’d like,does anyone over 40 (and under 60)climb as much as they’d like?
TRAD CLIMBING
First proper climbing trip in 6yrs so despite being as unfit as at any point in the last 20yrs, there was a high degree of expectation. It did not disappoint. Exploratory trip to Saudi Arabia only recently opened up to tourists. We climbed various new routes on extremely adventurous terrain. The climbing was always easier than it looked but fairly involved. We climbed 25+ new pitches up to E5 on towers and walls up to 450m,descending all but 3 in the dark. The highlight was the leaning tower of Dissah.(http://[url=https://flic.kr/p/2kpqAGk][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50804549947_7d17e765dd_m.jpg)[/url]70ED20B7-D82E-4FD6-A95A-F394104A57F2 (https://flic.kr/p/2kpqAGk) by jake75uk (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75076271@N07/), on Flickr[/img]
Amazing trip, so good to explore and have some jeopardy for the first time in a while. Also amazing to climb with Ivo again after the best part of 10yrs. Great times with great friends in a great place.
Gimmer with Johnny Brown! Just good to escape to the hills during a tough summer. Got spanked on Eastern Hammer but it wasn’t really a surprise still one of the better days out this year.
Pembroke with Johnny B, El Mocho and Caff. It felt like a stolen weekend amidst various lockdowns and school traumas. It was nice to sit in a pub and rant with mates. I’m always over optimistic with climbing in general and after warming up on some E3’s it was quite apparent that was the grade for the trip!! My route highlight was Deep Throat. The real highlight was being able to be social...
BOULDERING
After a 4 day lock in at the amazing Fat Lamb pub to see in the New Year I dragged the kids (5 and 1) up to Eastby to do Dead babies. As ever I was overly optimistic with the objective given the kids.... As we pulled up I realised it wasn’t that feasible an option with 2 kids, a pram and 3 pads, but after spying people heading up there decided it was now or never. After battling up the hill we arrived in a sweaty and tearful mess to gate crash the serenity of someone else’s session. Fortunately they seemed slightly amused by the over keen dad and screaming kids. After a couple of warm up goes it was in the bag and we descended to the car. It felt like a stolen send that shouldn’t have happened. A good start to a shit year!
Chip shop brawl with El Mocho and Johnny B. Tried and failed before. Persevered with bad beta for way too long! Actually felt quite easy in the end with the right beta (don’t they always). Classic grit.
Great day at Zarzalejo with Longy and the Shetland pony. After setting a comp in Madrid we got some amazing weather in February. Whilst it was too hot to climb hard it felt amazing after a shit British winter. Bleeding tips a menu del dia ,family and friends in a great location. (https://flic.kr/p/2kq8RRT)
SPORT CLIMBING
literally did one route. Staying power at Yew Cogar. Me and the eldest met john and his boy down there for some mid summer sport climbing. We arrived first so I rope soloed it to get a rope up before sending it first go once the belay arrived. Fun day messing in the river and pic nicking! When it goes well with kids in tow it’s great! It usually doesn’t go well...(https://flic.kr/p/2kqd3js)
All in all a bad year numbers wise but that’s not the point, I had some good days with some good people. Roll on 2021
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Balls photo fail
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Highlight the photo link and click on the 'picture' icon.
Cool tower! How high is that?
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The highlight was the leaning tower of Dissah.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50804549947_7d17e765dd_b.jpg)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/75076271@N07/50804549947/ (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75076271@N07/50804549947/)
Amazing trip....
On flickr.com, click on "Download this photo" in the right corner (on the icon of a downward pointing arrow). Select "View all sizes". Right click on the photo displayed and select "Copy image address". In this case the image address was https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50804549947_7d17e765dd_b.jpg. Paste this between the image tags.
The highlight was the leaning tower of Dissah.
[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50804549947_7d17e765dd_b.jpg[/img]
[url]https://www.flickr.com/photos/75076271@N07/50804549947/[/url]
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Highlight the photo link and click on the 'picture' icon.
Cool tower! How high is that?
Somewhere between 90 to 120m Ivo jumped it the next day which was cool
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50804549947_7d17e765dd_b.jpg)
This thing was around 400 to 450m around the same size as the Titan.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50812564573_a364b49b37_b.jpg)
Another 100m one
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50813310691_13e7634f99_b.jpg)
Thanks jwi and Pete that wasn’t very straightforward for a Luddite
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- Such a good thread. Brilliant to see Yew Cogar appear twice! And Victoria Cave. And Sinn Fein! I always fancied the looks of that. Hope you haven’t written it off DunnyG? Ive always meant to do Comet Wall too so that’s good inspiration to get it done this year Harry. Walking along the top of Guisecliff over Christmas reminded how impressive those cliffs are. Without the cover of leaves on the trees it was like suddenly seeing the bottom through deep water…
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- I feel ive barely climbed and wasn’t going to bother writing this year, but it’s always a positive thread this and reading through other folks posts has made me reconsider my own highlights. Good to bolster the Scottish contributions too.
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- Not much, but here they are:
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- All of the trad
- - Grey Slab – Coire Sputan Dearg – the only mountain route all year, but a lovely adventure with a good friend on a cliff Ive not explored before.
- - Beer Engineer – Gallanach – Ive always thought there would be potential for trad routes on the local conglomerate. This takes a nice slab and small overhang to finish up a lovely finger crack at about HVS.
- Only sport
- - Large Boy Stops for No One – Loch Buie – Great to jump on Cal’s FA from last year. The moves across the headwall really are quality, more hero climbing!
- - Herbie Mhor – Gallanach – The best of the local stuff yet. 25m of smoooooth sailing up a big leaning face with a well-positioned boulder problem to finish. Around 7b. The wall got its back on me later when it spat a block off the top and ricocheted it into my knee…
- - more laps of the Gallanach 6b? It is good! https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/50821244337/in/dateposted/
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- Boulders
- - Brandy Stone lockdown eliminates https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/50820673428/in/dateposted/
- - Hunker Down 6C – the best find this year was this beautiful lump of gabbro. I fear the locals got wind of the spot as they banned Mainlanders from the Mull ferry soon after.. Will hopefully get back to scope the others out soon.
- https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/50820383958/in/dateposted/
- - G Arete – High Crags – after two months of sausage fingers and no climbing it was a real treat to be able to sneak in a climb on Christmas day.
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- Top injuries
- - Nearly popping a hip out on A Deep Sense of Moss – A high heel early on in a session led to a unholy popping sound deep in the groin. haven’t heel hooked comfortably since..
- - Sausage Fingers – my own personal plague of 2020… first appeared during the spring as sore swollen fingers/PIP joints on one hand. Though they felt fine when warmed up, they would burn for days after with the skin drying and going flaky overnight. Almost arthritis like… But likely a series of bad collateral tears… a few weeks rest did little to help. The spring bout eventually healed after a few months off. Returned to climbing in the summer, but the sausage fingers came back with a vengeance this autumn. Havent really climbed since. Tried finger curls, voodoo flossing, and now have a number of small finger-fucker rings to massage it, but still reacting. And physio is too expensive.. Slow rehab and strengthening starting again soon hopefully.
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- Other
- - Running – partly through lockdown and the above sausage fingers I finally got through the initial discomfort of running and found joy in burning lungs and muddy trails.
- - Sourdoughs – Def something worth celebrating. Think ive nailed the sourdoughs, and even better figured out how to get the old breadmaking machine to do most of it
- - Loving work (maybe too much..). I just need to watch the number of late nights for the sake of a happy homelife… And make funding more secure..
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Highlight the photo link and click on the 'picture' icon.
Cool tower! How high is that?
Somewhere between 90 to 120m Ivo jumped it the next day which was cool
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50804549947_7d17e765dd_b.jpg)
This thing was around 400 to 450m around the same size as the Titan.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50812564573_a364b49b37_b.jpg)
Another 100m one
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50813310691_13e7634f99_b.jpg)
Thanks jwi and Pete that wasn’t very straightforward for a Luddite
Stunning. Would love to read a trip report about it
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So much to do north of the border, you've reminded me that I have only done a handfull of routes up there! Definitely the best thread of the year. I havent written Sinn Fein off, but I will be going with lower expectations and on a less windy day (and will try not to have a hissy). Lovely spot.
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I havent written Sinn Fein off, but I will be going with lower expectations and on a less windy day (and will try not to have a hissy). Lovely spot.
:thumbsup: Bleak and beautiful. Id suggest giving it the pad party treatment, but that might take away from the feel of the place!
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Top 4 Boulders - Home
Les Grand Doigts 7C - Froggatt
Climbed right at the start of 2020. A big slice of Fontainebleau right on the doorstep.
Batman & Cherokee Lane 7b+ & 7B - Crag X
I’d tried Batman the previous year and it felt desperate for 7B+ so it was nice to return this year after some lockdown training and tick it off the list. Also managed Cherokee Lane the same session. Another nemesis but it turned out I’d just been holding the left handhold wrong all along. I suspect I will never get two new CragX ticks in a session ever again.
Back Street Mime Artist - 8A - First of the grade.
Spend 5 minutes on social media and you’d be convinced that everyone is climbing 8A within 6 months of putting on climbing shoes. I’ve been climbing considerably longer than that and despite a handful of 7C+s, some Swizzy 8As that weren’t and another 7C+ that took so much more effort to do it felt like it could have been 8A, I’d never managed to climb in the eight grade of the Fontainebleau scale. I first starting trying BSMA in early 2019 and got close, having a number of attempts that failed right at the end. Winter of 2019 / 2020 saw rubbish weather gave way to COVID restrictions which means I didn’t start trying it again until Winter 2020. Having a small toddler meant most sessions were squeezed in by lantern after work and toddler bedtime. A number of early sessions were disappointing, failing to put together any significant links before colder temperatures and more time on the problem meant I was on Redpoint again. In late November I was though to the end, only to catch my left foot as I turned the lip at the end. It was the type of dab that would barely register on a snickometer, but a dab is a dab. Snatching defeat from the jaws on victory. Elation turned to disappointment and there was no way I could live with myself taking the tick. I had to sit through 3 weeks of rubbish weather and not being able to get out before finally sealing the deal just before Christmas.
Top 3 Boulders - Away
Grasswind 7B+, Crafnant
Between lockdowns we managed to get to North Wales for the weekend. I’d never been to Crafnant before and it was high on my list of objectives. Fortunately the cottage my Mother in Law had booked was in the next village along. Grasswind was the first tick of the day, although I almost had a moment at the top when I discovered the top out wasn’t the rampant jug fest I was expecting.
Reckless 7B, Bickerton
I’m always keen to explore new places and this was pretty much the closest climbing when we had a weekend in Chester. A baking hot day and the crag was the perfect escape from the heat.
Severus Snape 7B+ (flash)
Having cancelled a trip to Font earlier in the year we just managed to sneak a week in the County before the Tiered system of lockdowns came into play. I’ve flashed a few 7bs before and been close to flashing 7B+ but it’s always proved elusive. Having been turned away from a few of my harder objectives by bad weather I ended up at Back Bowden. I’ve always seemed to climb pretty well on Nothumberland sandstone so I figured this would be good candidate for the flash. I harvested the internet for beta, warmed up properly and was rewarded with my first 7B+ flash.
Top pointless challenge - 100 ‘V’ Points in a day
I’ve toyed with the idea of trying to tick 100 ‘V’ points in a day before. I can’t remember where I first thought of the idea but I know Pete Robins did it in Llanberis pass some years ago. I always thought if I was going to do it anywhere it would be on the grit as you can climb loads of slabs / aretes without really expending much energy. However after a few sessions at Rubicon this year I figured I could maybe do it on Peak Limestone. The outcome was far from assured but it was worth a go. Kudos wall is made of this kind thing as you can quickly rack up half the points without having to move your pad further than 30cm to the left or right. Rattling through most of the stand ups on Kudos wall pretty much first go I was feeling confident. I moved over to Caviar start just as it came into the sun and burnt more energy than I would have liked on something I normally have dialled. Leaving Rubicon with 63 points in the bag I was feeling pretty good as I drove up to CragX. Disaster struck as everything apart from Zippy’s traverse had runoff on. I was banking on at 24-32 points from CragX and now I needed a rethink. I raced up to Blackwell dale, same story, more runoff before pinning all my hopes on Stoney Middleton. A quick text home to apologise for staying out later than planned and then I was up to Tom’s roof. I hadn’t climbed here for a couple of years and was still worried I could fall at the final hurdle. Luckily, Power Allowance, Punker Bunker and Tom’s original all went first go meaning I could head over to minus 10 for what was essentially a victory lap. Who should I bump into but big Ron. He asked if I’d been anywhere else that morning and I told him about the 100 ‘V’ points in a day. I said it’s not quite 100 Extremes but it’ll do for me. I think this made him smile.
http://vimeo.com/472320209
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Who should I bump into but big Ron. He asked if I’d been anywhere else that morning and I told him about the 100 ‘V’ points in a day. I said it’s not quite 100 Extremes but it’ll do for me. I think this made him smile.
:2thumbsup:
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Nice write up Chris and enjoyed the film. Well done on the 8A too. :clap2:
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Top 3 Local
Yukon Afternoon 6C
Crisp November Friday morning at Clash, unemployed, met a couple of mates, following updates from US that confirmed Trump was on his way out. Easy and great circuit before moving to Yukon boulder. Actually flashed this, after beta from mate. Good moves, nice mix of holds, surprisingly nothing too sharp.
Double Tap into PPE 7A
A multi year project tat has gone through various stages of persisting with shit beta, holds snapping, and getting dogged by poor conditions On the day it went, the conditions started of pretty poor, everything was condensing out, and rock going black. Then wind picked up and everything went OK (sticky damp?), dropped the last rockover once after getting through first crux, then got it next go, as it was getting dark. It a link up of two daft eliminates but actually climbs pretty well. Never trained specifically for moves before, it might be harder, could be easier, probably morpho.
Through It All 6C
Strange times 2020. The torrential storm which caused flash floods and the landslide that fatally derailed the train near Stonehaven also brought an enormous amount of rock down Pheppie Burn, perfectly platforming the landings of the crag closest to the burn. Did 5 or 6 new probs there early summer, this was probably the best, great moves up a vertical face, then over a small roof. Andy E did a couple of good ones there too, and there were projects to go back for. Sadly it didn't last, and the first storms of autumn reduced the landing to its former state, i.e.unfeasible. Ah well.
Top 3 Spankings
Golden Brown Sit 7A Clashfarquar
Can't sodding do it. Did the crouch start at 6C with relative ease, but the extra moves or the sit just seem to trip me up every time. Maybe get it in good nick again might make the difference, also not changing beta every attempt.
South Wall 6A+ Bowden
Sure I've done it before, or maybe I cheated round the corner. Either way, couldn't do it again.
Active Service 5 Kyloe
Had a right wobbler mantelling on to the lip, got everything wrong and out of, with only a small Moon pad below me, kids watching on. Eventually reversed, jumped off and went home. Guess I'm not as bold as I once was.
Trad Routes
Only trad I've done this year is toproping with the kids at Logie Head & Meikel Partans. They both did well and loved the seacliff experience.
Sport Routes
Did some easy stuff for the kids to toprope at Kirrie Quarry. Nice enough, but not suited to shorties.
Clipped some bolts at Bolsheugh one evening. Nice to do them again.
Non-Climbing
Amazing powder day at Praz de Lys. Bluebird, perfect snow, great mates, followed by beer and pizza on the terrace. Marred only by my brother losing phone in the snow with loads of photos on it. So lucky to have got it in before everything shut down.
Ace morning surf at Bamburgh. I first went to the beach a Bamburgh on one of my first visits to Northumberland about 16 years ago and thought it would be amazing to surf, but never got it good until October. Quiet Monday morning, dozen or so cheerful locals in the water. Perfect longboard waves, and I hardly put a foot wrong. Great session.
2nd MSV at Aberdeen winter 3k proms running Series. Managed to do all 6 of the races, with top 3 results counting. Some grim conditions, some vey grim, but always a fun crowd and a great series.
Lastly it's been a joy that the kids have really got into climbing. We've never really pushed them before, treated a trip to the wall as an occasional fun activity, but they've both been loving it this year, especially bouldering outdoors.
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Been avoiding this thread as 2020 didnt seem like a year to be celebrated. But I think it’s important to look back on good bits regardless, there is no real rock bottom, there is almost always more to lose. Good to appreciate what is good.
Top 3 abroad
1. La Crema, Siurana. Just mega this, had wanted to do it forever but as it’s always in the boiling sun it’s hard to do. Luckily we had a good spell of strong winds which made it cool enough to climb at siuranella. Very my style being ratty vert, but still found it tough. Had to skip the final clip as I couldn’t clip it using my sequence. Ace rocking onto the slab.
2. San Carlos de la birlocha, siurana. Tried this when it wasn’t windy enough for la crema. It’s a softy at 8a but really unique climbing on opposing Gaston’s. Looking forward to doing the ones around it.
3. El prado del Ray, siurana. Saved this to give it a good onsight go for ages and glad I got on it when I did. Nearly fluffed the top but managed to get back down to the rest, regroup, spot a foothold and do it. Love onsighting!
Top 3 trad
1. Tweetie pie slalom, Lewis. Great rock, moves and gear and a great spot. Fond memories of being on Lewis with Hannah.
2. Red rag to a bull, split rock quarry. Maybe a bit of an odd choice but I thought this was excellent. Fell off the crux first go, but lowered down and had a right battle up the crack after the crux, then that top slab! Wow - a brilliant finale, it’s all there but you are very aware of how big the fall would be if you blew it.
3. Luke Skywalker, Pembroke. I actually fell off but it was loads of fun and Hannah absolutely loved it, which was ace to see. Shame there will be no future days like that.
Top 3 U.K. sport
1. Unleashing the wild physique, cornice. Such a good route! Really technical but came together quickly for me. On the go I did it it felt pretty steady (technical stuff tends to)
2. Tequila Mockingbird, Chee tor. Amazing, wouldn’t expect anything less from big Ron. Felt desperate first go but again not a total nightmare once sussed. Would recommend this very highly. Apart from the start it’s actually perfectly bolted.
3. Crucifixion, Raven tor. Wow, a bit of Spain in the peak! From the 1st belay to the top is pure class. Felt desperate initially but after a few sessions of it feeling miles off on my 5th session I fell off the redpoint crux at the top having given it full beans. As it was after work I didn’t hold out much hope, but after a big rest I pulled it out the bag.
Top 3 boulders
1. Glass slipper, froggatt. Just mint this, tried it years ago but didn’t make much of a dent so didn’t it expect much, but just got it done before it got dark. So good and techy!
2. Tunnel wall, Cromlech. 2 stars but a fun bit of overhanging rats. Especially good as Hannah crushed it too. The start of a good run of form for her.
3. Early doors, curbar. Outdoor have done way quicker had I explored all beta options. Still a great problem and again, great to see Hannah do it especially as she gets scared easily and wasn’t feeling confident on the top.
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Nice one Duncan that’s a great list. La Crema is a lovely bit of rock!
2021 will bring more good experiences and memories and it’ll be upwards from there I’m sure.
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Some ace routes on there Duncan. Psyched to see you enjoyed Red Rag to a Bull, split rock was my local haunt growing up and did a lot of toprope laps on that lower wall. Underrated stuff.
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Thanks both, looked like you two had good years too.
Ali - bet you rinsed Defcon! Nice that you enjoyed just chilling in the sun after up at stoney bank.
Remus - great trio of 7c+s, need to get myself back up to two tier upper, vision of loveliness sounds ace.
I wonder what 2021 will bring. Hard to say at this moment.
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Best of 2020
Not a massively successful year climbing-wise but I feel fortunate to have emerged with a few ticks that had eluded me when I was younger, stronger, and not locked-down.
Sport - non UK
All climbs from a holiday in Siurana late January / early February. As I recall, there were rumours of a strange flu-like disease in Wuhan, and my partner was bemoaning that half of his Chemical Engineering class were Chinese and all were going home for Chinese New Year. I wonder what happened to that mystery virus? It seemed set for greater things.
Mid-height Hole 7b Desplomilandia
Flash. Funky sequence on small holds - short but with great moves. I was very grateful for beta from a helpful Swede who had put the draws in.
Alicia 7B+ Frontales
Flash. Really good climbing - no real stopper moves but relentless to the finish. Towards the ends of the holiday, so it felt less about fitness / ability (not that I had much of those after a 6 month break from routes) and more about tolerance for suffering and sweaty conditions!
Anack Sunamun 7b Frontales, Momia
On-sight. Absolutely shattering in the mid-day sun with some unhelpful seepage. I got very wrong-handed in the middle and was reduced to panic stricken dead-point snatches between poor nubbin; a satisfying way to end a holiday.
Sport Climbing - UK
Due to Covid, I didn't really want to hook-up with randoms as usual via the Yorks Lime Faceook group, so the only "route" I did was this:
Mandela Training Traverse 8a+, Kilnsey
Sent on a rainy morning, third day on - spurred into action by days of heavy rain and the increasing seepiness of the crux pockets. Not really a route but it has a sport grade, so I spuriously get to maintain my run of at least one f8 route a year for 9 or 10 years. Hah, my puerile ticking spits in the face of Covid-19!
Bouldering
Young Grasshopper / Spidercrab blues, Anston 7b/+
A link-up / eliminate but the best and hardest moves on the wall.
Reservation 7b Anston
At long last... after years of intermittent failure. The key was accidentally cutting loose, doing an accidental iron-cross, and putting my feet back on - which allowed me to turn a heel into a toe, and get a few extra inches of reach compared to previous goes.
Noisy Cricket / Grasshopper 7c/7c+??!!! Stronstrey Bank
One of those simple, pleasurable low angst days. Roll up; find boulder; watch video of TomTom; and problems done by lunchtime. The extension had a nice cross over move to join Noisy Cricket. Either it was a very low gravity day, or the problems were originally graded as eliminates without heel-toes? Whatever, never mind, I really enjoyed the moves I did.
Honourable mentions: Zendik, Ousel's Nest (felt impossible until it was easy), and Faith / Faithless LH and RH (all four variants ticked over a couple of sessions after years of getting nowhere).
Spankings
The usual suspects (as I type, I note that snatchy, "board-style" movement seems to be the common thread, I guess I now know what my lockdown training programme should focus on!).
Pit Problem, Trowbarrow, 7b
Many years of failure but at least I got nearer this year - during my most recent visits I was hitting but not quite holding the glued crimp. I had hopes of sending it over winter. But Covid.
Big Marine, C-y-L, 7b
As above. Previous years of failure but a bit of a breakthrough this year - had a couple of sessions where I regularly caught the top gaston but couldn't pull through to the top. Crap; but progress; but still crap.
Launch Control, Kilnsey, 7c
Perhaps not a spanking, as I suspect it's just not within my ambit. There's an adjustment on an undercut that despite not requiring the movement of any limbs, is essential for me and feels like the hardest of "non moves".
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Another World sitstart.
Adds a burly 6 moves into the standup, which has maybe the hardest move I've done. I've played on this so much over the years, been close-but-not-quite, spent time trying and spent time avoiding, spent time with friends, spent time on my own, spent time with wildlife. It came to be quite important to me, in the strange way that some challenges are. So I decided to dedicate winter training to getting stronger at these 9 moves, and the crux move in particular. Every woody session was focused on replicating versions, hanging positions. Amazingly to me, it worked. A couple of days before lockdown 1, I did it. And I was happy.
https://youtu.be/mLBtnfN8Tz4
Moorland Explorations.
I got fed up with sieges. I wanted to do something apart from spend time under the same rock. As wonderful as that can be in its own way, I wanted to climb new moves, feel new shapes. So I went hunting for those things, and climbed some great problems. There was one with a bat-hang. There was one with a rose move. There was one with a nipple. And there were so many big skies and days where I scraped over the top with raw skin, and returned home feeling elated. I've still got projects at those places (hence lack of details) so hopefully later in the year I can get stuck in again.
Core Blimey
Right after lockdown 1, I toured round a few more projects in the quarries, to see if any felt good. This lowball line of improbable slopers sucked me in. I got close very quickly, but then the sessions started to rack up. I fell off going for the jug, on an easy move, and after that I'd had enough. My siege juice was dry. I ran off to the moors and had a brilliant summer. ...But I was always going to return. So when the snow was at its thickest this winter, I decided to give it a look. I was gifted a snow-quilted world and a brilliant memory.
(ok, I climbed this on Jan 2, but it feels like it belongs to the previous year)
https://youtu.be/JaH9uL_54Vw
Rodin's Requiem Sitter
Got some new beta and climbed this one in a couple of sessions, having not tried it for a couple of years. The crux is an unusual bounce into a high press, the rest is straightforward. I'm not sure about the grade, but others seem to find it hard. It was nice to do something fast for once!
https://youtu.be/miR-IdDfK_U
TOP SPANKINGS
Core Blimey
Haha, turned into a victory!
The Amazing Arete
An arete of dreams. 30 deg. overhanging, quarried, blank. And tall! Maybe too tall. But we had dreams of being gritstone heroes. This line was good enough to imagine overcoming the fear. So we put a stake in, did much cleaning, threw a rope down... Oh dear. This thing is next level. The holds are too spaced, the friction too poor. So as the day drew on, we restorted to trying the "easy" boulder problem start. In the dark, with a headtorch, I had a hand on the finishing sloper, but the air was damp and I just couldn't match. One to come back for. 7B+ for that bit maybe. The easy bit.
The Direct
...to an old school E6. All the moves done, fierce pulls up a slight arete, and slightly steep. 7B+ maybe, a little bit highball until the gear and the E6 finish. So what does that make it, E7? Had a very enjoyable session figuring out the moves, all the excitement of creating a sequence, inch by inch. Pretty sure I could have done this swiftly. But pandemic and belayers and blah. Another one for 2021...
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Best of 2020
Noisy Cricket / Grasshopper 7c/7c+??!!! Stronstrey Bank
One of those simple, pleasurable low angst days. Roll up; find boulder; watch video of TomTom; and problems done by lunchtime. The extension had a nice cross over move to join Noisy Cricket. Either it was a very low gravity day, or the problems were originally graded as eliminates without heel-toes? Whatever, never mind, I really enjoyed the moves I did.
Noisy Cricket was graded for a sequence that involved bringing right foot onto the face before getting the next Rh face hold. And then Pete did Grasshopper and thought it was a grade harder. A few seem to think 7B+ and 7C respectively.
Either way, nice boulder in a scenic spot. Good effort!
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Nice one R-Man. I see Rodins sit had another ascent last week - and a grade vote on the other channel...
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Beard?
Beard.
Beard!!
BEARD!!!
:agree: Good effort on that first thing too, looks cool.
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Did you try Honk Down at Frontales Moose? I thought that was a brilliant route, as good as any I've done anywhere in Spain. I did have to wait for shade though, which it sounds like you weren't doing! Anack Sunaman looked brilliant but those tufas were glinting in the sun and ceased to be appealing...
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Best of 2020
For reasons other than covid and girlfriends, 2020 was genuinely life-changing. Climbing-wise the year was quiet although I still visited three different areas abroad, including a last-minute decision in July to drive the length of France and Spain with the person who would become my girlfriend, to retrieve her van from the south-west tip of Spain. Achieved my long-held dream of climbing the Naranjo de Bulnes on the drive back. The 14-days quarantine on return felt very much worth it.
New Routes
Kept up my run of doing at least one new route every year for about the last 12 years. Still developing a few areas in Wales and Ireland, including what will be N.Wales's best (only?) granite sport climbing venue, and a very interesting coastal venue in NI. It never ends and I love it.
A Right Savage, 6a. Garron Point. On the front face of the pinnacle at Garron. Nothing special but I really like it and I wouldn't be surprised if became one of the most climbed lower grade routes in NI over the next 20 years!
TreforTreforLand, 7b+. A 40 metre bolted granite adventure with a super-thin slab crux, where you have to high smear on nothing and hold balance while you slap to a sloper and then rock over, followed by another 20-odd metres of varied techy climbing to the chains. Have got more cool lines bolted that I need to return to asap. My friend did an amazing 30 metre 7a next door which includes a runout section of a flared granite offwidth, unlike any 7a in Wales.. more like Yosemite.
Sport - non UK
Early year 2-week trip to Chullia and Costa Blanca was great fun, but lost 5 days of my week in Chulilla on my back with the worst flu/cold I can remember... :-\
Periclonica and Braso Corto, both on Pared Blanca in Chillia. Both 35m of slabby face climbing fun, probably my favorite routes of the three days I climbed in Chulilla.
Satanismo en al Alpimismo, Rumenes, in the Desfiladero de La Hermida. Traddy feeling route laybacking a steep flake system at the top.
Trad - non UK
Martinez Direct, Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa. Have wanted to climb the Bulnes for as long as I can remember and it didn't disappoint. Everything about the trip felt like we were bunking off to fantasy mountain-land to escape from the grim covid-world. Felt like the luckiest people alive to be up there. Bivvying at the base of the spire under clear starry skies was fantastic. The route starts around the back from the main face, so you get to see the whole of the Bulnes and its varied faces. The climb was fun, with lots of massive water runnels to pinch and bridge. Mostly bolted but glad to place gear on the runouts. Think my biggest concern was not killing someone by knocking a rock off on the loose descent scramble back down from the summit, and then not getting heat exhaustion on the way out. Very keen to return to climb the Murciana 78 and Rabada-Navaro routes, both look incredible and the rock on that face looks superb. I love Asturias, the cider and the rain make me feel at home..
Via Missing Link, Raco del Corv on the Sierra Toix. Wow! Amazing route. Feels like a juggy Gogarth adventure but with lots of threads and rusty bolts. All the routes we did on this cliff were top class - El Dorado (sport) which I'd done previously is also brilliant.
Bernia Ridge, Costa Blanca. More of a scramble and I probably wouldn't have put this in if we hadn't had the combination of weather we did - low cloud obscuring the whole built-up world of the cost blanca, leaving just the unspoilt mountains sticking out of the swirling mist. It felt like we were traversing a remote alpine mountain far away from the rest of the world. Bizarre to be so close to Benidorm!
Trad - UK
Very quiet year, Autobahn and The Groan at Craig y Forwyn were both good, the only other memorable trad was some nice easy soloing in the Pass.
Sport Climbing - UK
I can't recall any success! First year in many I haven't finished at least one grade-8 thing that I started.
Bouldering
Honorary mentions to the problems in Breck Road area up the slope from Parisellas, and Dave Lyon's Bodafon traverse wall for providing many happy afternoons escape during the spring lockdown.
Life
In summer 2018 I was in the back of a friend's car travelling back from the alps when I overheard a message sent to him by someone with industry connections, about a tiny exploration company who'd made an interesting discovery from their maiden drill-hole in the west Australian desert. I've long been a small-time investor so my ears pricked up. Following a month researching I decided, with what I'd overheard in the car, that in a lifetime investing it's very rare to see this sort of opportunity for risk/reward. So I took my life savings of £36k that I'd saved for a deposit on a house, another £12k on a credit card*, and invested the lot. For 18 months nothing much happened. I continued researching and remained holding. In 2020 what I thought would happen, began. I watched the investment grow by thousands of percent over a 6 month period, it all felt very surreal, I'd turned 5 figures into 7. The good fortune of being in that car, overhearing that message, and acting on it, meant my world suddenly changed from fully expecting to work until retirement age etc., to being able to comfortably retire at 45 without needing to work if I choose. No excuses not to do Murcianna 78 then, and plenty of other adventures. And with the person I'd have hoped. Yay : )
* silly risk, I don't recommend this.
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Brave man Pete - I’ve stayed on exploration sites with a couple of small companies in N Australia... there’s plenty that don’t pay off - so well done!
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Another World sitstart.
This is not half bad looking for a Lancashire quarry!
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Best of 2020
Noisy Cricket / Grasshopper 7c/7c+??!!! Stronstrey Bank
One of those simple, pleasurable low angst days. Roll up; find boulder; watch video of TomTom; and problems done by lunchtime. The extension had a nice cross over move to join Noisy Cricket. Either it was a very low gravity day, or the problems were originally graded as eliminates without heel-toes? Whatever, never mind, I really enjoyed the moves I did.
Noisy Cricket was graded for a sequence that involved bringing right foot onto the face before getting the next Rh face hold. And then Pete did Grasshopper and thought it was a grade harder. A few seem to think 7B+ and 7C respectively.
Either way, nice boulder in a scenic spot. Good effort!
7B+/7C seems fair enough with feet at the back, and I wouldn't even argue with a grade easier (it would still be a very good day for me). I've given up trying to grade problems with my spectacularly variant strengths and weaknesses (static reaches between well separated crimps - YES! dynamism, slopes, and being bunched-up - WOE!).
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Not bad Pete :clap2:
Looking forward to all the new routes with all that time you'll have on your hands!
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Another World sitstart.
This is not half bad looking for a Lancashire quarry!
I thought that!
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but lost 5 days of my week in Chulilla on my back with the worst flu/cold I can remember... :-\
You sure it was flu???
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Brave man Pete - I’ve stayed on exploration sites with a couple of small companies in N Australia... there’s plenty that don’t pay off - so well done!
Yep, I’ve invested in plenty of small cap turds and lost my fair share over the years! :slap: In both Aus and Canada. I learnt the hard way.
I may have made this episode sound like a total punt but it was nothing of the sort really, I’d learnt how to do proper research by then and I had a very lucky break to get in early, I’m brave but not that reckless!
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Brave man Pete - I’ve stayed on exploration sites with a couple of small companies in N Australia... there’s plenty that don’t pay off - so well done!
Yep, I’ve invested in plenty of small cap turds and lost my fair share over the years! :slap: In both Aus and Canada. I learnt the hard way.
I may have made this episode sound like a total punt but it was nothing of the sort really, I’d learnt how to do proper research by then and I had a very lucky break to get in early, I’m brave but not that reckless!
Which company was/is it?
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Brave man Pete - I’ve stayed on exploration sites with a couple of small companies in N Australia... there’s plenty that don’t pay off - so well done!
Yep, I’ve invested in plenty of small cap turds and lost my fair share over the years! :slap: In both Aus and Canada. I learnt the hard way.
I may have made this episode sound like a total punt but it was nothing of the sort really, I’d learnt how to do proper research by then and I had a very lucky break to get in early, I’m brave but not that reckless!
The Wolf of Orme Street
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Best of 2020
...I'd turned 5 figures into 7....being able to comfortably retire at 45 without needing to work if I choose.
Crikey and congratulations. This thread is now closed for new entries: we have a winner!
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Which company was/is it?
(Off topic)
Greatland Gold was the biggie.
I’m also doing well with a small British company called Ilika that grew out of Southampton university research, they have patents on their solid state battery technology, and hope to be producing solid state batteries for EVs and other uses like IoT.
If/when solid state batteries can be commercially produced it will be the next evolution for EV and internet of things. The brexit EU trade deal was actually good for this - as a direct result from 2024 vehicle manufacturers must source at least 50% of vehicle parts from within the UK or EU. Because batteries are too heavy to be easy to mass transport it means the UK is rushing to ramp up domestic EV battery production. Ilika has benefitted from a government programme to support production at scale.
Nickel sulfide miners also doing very well out of the EV revolution, due to the increasing amount required for the battery cathodes.
And many believe Tin will be the fastest growing commodity in the coming EV and tech evolution due to the amount required in chip boards. Shortages currently in the US. (off topic)
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Better late than never....
Sorry for the delay, but I've only just got round to looking at this thread, and it's got me well psyched as ever!
Well done to everyone who got anything at all done last year, it certainly wasn't easy, but it's great to look back on a genuinely tough year and see some great stuff in there!!
Ok, here we go....
Top 3 Trad Routes
Camel Hot, E6 6b, Black Rocks
Had a Great time at Black Rocks last winter, not just climbing but also and slightly randomly sword fighting and doing some safety rigging for an amazing action film!
Wanted to do this for years ever since seeing the photo in the original “On Peak Rock” guidebook (20 +years ago) which always makes things special. Bit of a consolation prize after getting well spanked on the velvet silence mantel. Seeing the stunt team inflate a huge cash mat under which nearly brought a tear to my eye at the opportunity !!
Perplexity, E6 6b, Millstone
Millstone was another crag that I focused on for a month or so, having some great days there with Henry Francis, topped off my him doing Master’s Edge as his first E7, which was absolutely worth me not doing it, as there was only time for one ascent before dark!
Perplexity itself is an incredible route with great climbing, that I enjoyed to it’s full with no fear at all.
The Shape of Things to Come, E6 6b, Curbar
Curbar E6 is always gonna feel pretty stern I guess. This is a mega, underrated route that could be worth E7 elsewhere. Absolutely fantastic climbing but VERY spicy! The crux is runout but then the “head” crux higher up, protected by some pretty optimistic (even for me) opposing wires is seriously iffy. Had to have a few words with myself with numb hands and pumped arms, but made it count!
Dad Musgrove’s Onsight of this is absolutely outrageous (although sounds pretty harrowing!!)
Top 3 Boulders
“Opus” 7a? Almscliffe
What a corker, scary highballing with a very committing top move. Made all the better for it being a day out climbing with the one and only Dave Evans who’d driven over from Wales. Now that’s committment!!
“Monochrome” 7b, Burbage
Had trouble with this one day, then subsequently went home and weighed myself to find that I was at a record high! No wonder! After a few days of more healthy living, and a pro-style warm up at the mini works, I headed back on my own for revenge, at least 2kg lighter. It didn’t stand a chance. Honour restored!!
“Staffs Flyer” 6b, Roaches skyline
1st day back climbing after lockdown 1, this was a great day, parked at the secret spot and didn’t see a soul all day. Felt so good to be free again and was great to do the full circuit like Wings of Unreason, Track of the Cat etc too.
Top 3 UK Sport
“The Squealer” 7c, Lorry Park
Another early foray out climbing after lockdown, and to a new crag too, imagine my psyche!
Was surprised to rattle this off quickly although my lack of endurance meant that I was basically in full on pain in my forearms on the rests!!
“Rocket From the Crypt” 7a+, Cheyenne Weares
Wow, what a gem! Mega climbing, mega rock, and right by the sea which is always a favourite. A big puppy pitch that was perfect for regaining fitness after lockdown !
“Big Spider, Small Bath” 7c, Lorry Park
There’s nothing like finding a local-ish venue that you’ve not climbed at, and getting well and truly stuck in. I had a really good flash go on this but my mind and body had forgotten what to do a bit following my biggest break from outdoor climbing ever, during lockdown, just another route that I enjoyed 100% and where it felt like a great gift to be able to go outdoor climbing again!!
Top 3 Sport Routes Abroad
Felt very lucky to sneak a trip in to Kalymnos in September, although he who dares and all that, it was a proper gamble on cheap flights that could have very easily been cancelled.
The best tick of the trip by far was smashing in the 1km swim between Telendos and Kalymnos with the Boothy brothers and Rob psyche machine.
Climbing wise it was actually a bit of a spanking, with boiling temps and lack of fitness, but the best routes were:
“Puffa Puffa Puffa” 7c/+?, Secret Garden
The tufa at the top off this has broken, making it now a very hard sequence, but after a lot of faffing, managed to fathom it out
“Bourre Mais Pas” 7b+, Secret Garden
Psyched to onsight this!
“Early Bird” 7b+/c, Odyssey
Mad scenes having Odyssey sector to yourself in what would otherwise be a really busy time of year!
Think this was last route of the trip, obviously followed by ice cream, Mythos, and a swim!
Top Spankings
Managed to tick off my “RCI” instructor qualification this year. Part of this process involved quite a few days out with guru and long Time friend and climbing partner And Turner, and also Mark Sharratt who it’s been great to see getting psyched on climbing again.
We’d run through some tech shizzle, then obviously do some climbing. Unfortunately for me this involved off widths. After doing myself proud on “The Vice” at Stanage, I subsequently got spanked by everything we tried (although I was about 1% away from doing “Harvest”, so Ramshaw Crack, Harvest, Melvyn Bragg, and rather shamefully, Imposition, all go in here!
Right, that’s it. Anyone else left to confess?
It’s not too late!!
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“Staffs Flyer” 6b, Roaches skyline
1st day back climbing after lockdown 1, this was a great day, parked at the secret spot and didn’t see a soul all day. Felt so good to be free again and was great to do the full circuit like Wings of Unreason, Track of the Cat etc too.
Think I remember first doing this with you, Andi, Stu and his bro Rog in the closing months of the last Millennium. Have it all on slide somewhere.....
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“The Squealer” 7c, Lorry Park
Another early foray out climbing after lockdown, and to a new crag too, imagine my psyche!
Was surprised to rattle this off quickly although my lack of endurance meant that I was basically in full on pain in my forearms on the rests!!
“Big Spider, Small Bath” 7c, Lorry Park
There’s nothing like finding a local-ish venue that you’ve not climbed at, and getting well and truly stuck in. I had a really good flash go on this but my mind and body had forgotten what to do a bit following my biggest break from outdoor climbing ever, during lockdown, just another route that I enjoyed 100% and where it felt like a great gift to be able to go outdoor climbing again!!
Well TURBO! ;D
I still don't know if I want to do BSSB because of the name, or NOT do it because of the name...