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the shizzle => the blog pile => Topic started by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 12:47:46 am

Title: Blogs from Robbie Phillips
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 12:47:46 am
YCS Finals - EICA: Ratho (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/ycs/1742.html)
23 June 2012, 11:37 pm

Hey Guys!

Busy day at Ratho (330 competitors!!!) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/busy-day.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1769)

What a day it's been. I've been at EICA: Ratho all day manning the Evolv boot demo stand whilst simultaneously coaching my kids taking part in the finals of the YCS. It's been pretty hectic and I can't quite put into words just how tired I am, it's a miracle I still have energy to write blogs and post pictures (although I just did down 8 Oreos with a glass of milk, that might have given me something extra :P ).

David Miedzybrodski getting ready to demo! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/David-strong.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1770)

So, today is the day that 330 kids around the country have been looking forward to since the regional rounds finished. For Scotland that was earlier in the year (back in February) so for them it has been a longer wait. All the kids that I coach regularly have been training really hard for this day and I can say without a doubt that the rewards have more than certainly been reaped from their hard work.

Leo fighting the final route! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/leo-final.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1772)

I got to the wall with Nat early in the morning to set up the stall for the boot demo. Most of the kids had arrived even by then for registration and warm up. I quickly got set up and then began my hunt for as many of my padawans as possible. Everyone seemed fired up and raring to go, there were a few signs of nervous excitement but nothing that posed too much of a worry. Everyone just seemed really happy to be at the final and to be competing with friends in such a fun and motivating environment. The atmosphere of Ratho was exhilarating to say the least, when you bring together so many psyched young climbers the aura of the place really blossoms.

Sam happy after a good performance (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/Sam-finak-happy.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1773)

The kids that I coach regularly who were competing today included boys and girls in most of the Youth categories. To save writing a post of epic proportions of every detail from today I will put the end results below followed by a few key moments from the day:

E (2003-2004)



D (2001-2002)



C (1999-2000)



A (1995-1996)



 

In Youth E, young Leo was attending his first ever YCS final. I coach Leo and his brother Sam at Ratho most weeks and I can say without a doubt that the pair of them certainly have it in their genes. Their dad is french (which I reckon is where their awesome technique comes from) and they have a brilliant head for comps (apart from when Sam goes in a huff :P ). Leo did fantastically well placing 2nd and considering this is his first ever YCS Final, it's some achievement! It was really inspiring watching Leo flash all the boulder problems and do so well in all the routes. His style is very similar to that of top european competition climbers i.e. fast, strong, efficient. He doesn't waste any time and was probably the fastest of all the competitors on the field.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/Scottbeaker.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1775)Spot The Difference :D

Scott happy with his victory! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/beakerscott.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1777)Sam in Youth C beat his previous result from last year (24th) by coming 4th! He wasn't just 4th, he was 1 point of 3rd place podium finish which is an excellent improvement from last year. The most impressive part of this was his comeback after fluffing up his second qualifier route, something which he was more than capable of flashing but made some little errors that cost him the top that would have placed him strongly in 3rd position.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/Scott-champion.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1774)

I think though that although Scotland South won the team position against Scotland North, it was Scotland North that devastated the competition with three winners which I think might be a record for them?!?!?

Leo happy with his first ever YCS Final performance (2nd place!) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/Leo-Champ.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1771)

Scott Keirr (YA), Rebecca Kinghorn (YB) and Rebekah Drummond (YA) all came away with 1st place podium finishes. Scott has been focussing solely on his bouldering which I gave him a training program to follow for. His next big comp is the BBC's which he is hoping to crush and show the British Bouldering Team Managers what he is made of. Rebecca Kinghorn in usual style creeped her way to the top in a slow but strong style. Her ability to lock on tiny edges amazes me! And finally Rebekah Drummond has proven that hard work and training pays off as well as an insatiable hunger for success. Winning the YCS was a big goal for Rebekah this year and since she started training, she has been making massive steps to becoming the top female climber in Scotland - lets see where she takes it from here :)

Rebekah chuffed with her victory in Youth A Girls - What's next for the young climbing prodigy? (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/Bekah-happy.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1768)

In the end, there were no tears, maybe a few disappointed faces but everyone improved from previous results which is all we can ask for, that and to have fun :D I'm now as psyched as ever to see were all these amazing youth climbers are going to take their climbing in the next year - only time will tell...

 

ROBZ OUT

TOP RESULTS +

SCOTTISH RESULTS

 

GIRLS E


BOYS E


(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/YE-Boys.jpg)

GIRLS D


BOYS D


(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/YD-Boys.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1749)

GIRLS C


(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/YC-Girls.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1748)

BOYS C


(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/YC-Boys.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1747)

GIRLS B


(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/YB-Girls.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1746)

BOYS B


(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/YB-Boys.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1745)

GIRLS A


(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/YA-Girls.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1744)

BOYS A


(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/YA-Boys.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1743)



Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Cork Youth Climbing Club Coaching
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 12:47:48 am
Cork Youth Climbing Club Coaching (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/youth-events/cork-youth-climbing-club-coaching.html)
24 June 2012, 7:57 pm

Hey Guys

Today was another fun day at the big EICA. After all the excitement from yesterday I was unsure of how many of the kids would be there for a second day... turns out a lot! Nat and I were coaching a big group of Irish kids who had come through for their first taste of Ratho and the YCS Finals. None of these kids had competed before and most had only been climbing for a year but they were all mega psyched and keen to rip up the walls of Ratho.

CORK YOUTH CLIMBING CLUB (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/cork.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1786)

The format for the day was to cover good warm up tactics for competition, get a bit of practice on-sighting on the long Ratho walls, have another go on some of the routes and boulders from the comp, and finally listen to me lecturing on the mental zone (a presentation I ran for the Elite Team earlier on in the year).(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/robbie-coaching-1.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1787)

The kids in the group today included 5 young beasts from Cork, David, Luke, Cormac, Hannah and Yasmine. It was good seeing the level these kids have achieved with relatively little experience climbing and with such small facilities in the south of Ireland. I think this speaks volumes for the support they get from their parents and coaches who work with them regularly i.e. Damien O'Sulliven and Neal McQuaid.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/robbie-coaching.jpg)

David was older than the rest of the Cork crew and was climbing at a really high standard. In Youth A David placed 11th overall, pretty awesome considering he hasn't been climbing that long. I watched that day as he continued to impress looking very close at on-sighting several 7c's and 7b+'s as well as giving the super final (8a) that was never used a good blast at the end of the day!

Cormak, Hannah, Luke and Yasmine all had a fantastic day too. We started of with some on-sight practice on a cheeky 6b that they all got very high up on before falling with the exception of Yas who attempted a fun 5+ and did really well.

Later in the afternoon, I ran a presentation/lecture on the mental zone, a topic quite close to my heart. Sport psychology is something i have great interest in and its been fun implementing all that I have learned to the coaching of young climbers. The Irish kids grasped the concepts I was discussing well and I think it will make a big difference to the way they view competitions, climbing and performance on a day to day basis.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/06/robbie-coaching-3.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1788)

Altogether this has been a good weekend and meeting the Cork crew was excellent. I am hoping that we can build a good relationship between the Cork Team and our Scottish crew for future training events and competitions :D

ROBZ OUT

 

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: STOATS PORRIDGE BARS!!!
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 12:47:48 am
STOATS PORRIDGE BARS!!! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/stoats/stoats-porridge-bars.html)
4 July 2012, 8:05 pm

GO OATY!

Hey Guys

Big news for Natalie and I! We have both acquired a fun and exciting new sponsor to further support our climbing careers. This new sponsor of ours is an Edinburgh based company that many of you may have heard off due to their massively popular snacks, the Stoats Porridge Bars!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/stoats-porridge-bars.jpg) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/stoats-porridge-bars.jpg)

Me and Natalie first became fans of these oaty bars whilst training at EICA: Ratho. We are always on the lookout for tasty healthy snacks to eat during our training sessions that provide optimum energy release throughout the whole day as well as keeping us light and not too full. The Stoats Porridge Bars quickly became our food of choice and have been fueling our training sessions ever since.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/stoats_porridge_pot.png)

The story of Stoats is of two young lads that hitting music festivals with their mates and burdened with the constant lack of a healthy snack that they could take with them that would keep them going strong all day long. This was when the first idea of Stoats arrived, initially as them selling Porridge out of their mobile porridge bar, it grew and grew with new ideas for products and eventually they struck gold with their immense idea of a porridge bar!

These days there is yet more to the company than just porridge and bars! They sell all sorts of goodies including oat based breakfast cereal, oatcakes and cute little mini porridge bars.

Oaty Beta!

As with many cereals, the health benefits of oats are widely talked about, with new research being published on a regular basis. It is now known that oats can help stabilise blood sugar levels with their low GI, slow release energy – this makes them particularly good for those at risk of type 2 diabetes. They are also a rich source of beta glucan – a type of fibre that is known to lower cholesterol and can reduce the risk factors associated with coronary heart disease.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/Stoats-Poster-Vis-blog-600x856.jpg)

Nat and I are really excited to be involved with such a unique product and innovative company and are really looking forward to bringing tasty oaty goodness to the climbing community.

ROBZ OUT

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Yorkshire is "Supercool"
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 12:47:49 am
Yorkshire is "Supercool" (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/yorkshire/yorkshire-is-supercool.html)
23 July 2012, 12:06 am

Hey Guys!

The last 3 days has been fun from start to finish. Nat and I have been away on a short trip to the UK sport climbing mecca of Yorkshire. As much as we love hopping on planes and jet setting off to sun baked crags in central Europe, we still find ourselves coming back to the land of puddings, rippers and grumpy farmers. To be frank, you can't go that wrong when you've got a 30minute drive radius from three of the biggest and best limestone crags in the country (Kilnsey, Malham and Gordale).(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/tent.jpg)

I have spent only a few days in Kilnsey and that was a number of years ago now. Unfortunately we didn't get a chance to visit this time but I'm looking forward to future trips. Malham is where I have spent most of my time in Yorkshire and I can't quite get enough of it. Everytime I go there I find new routes that entice me, keeping that flame for Malham burning. Until this trip I had never actually climbed at Gordale crag, but if you read on you'll hear that I am glad I didn't leave it any longer.

Day 1 - Malham on the Upper Tier

Three of us (myself, Nat and Will Carroll) drove down on the Friday afternoon to make it there by the evening. It was a leisurely journey with a few hours spent in Penrith dining at a very nice Italian restaurant Will had recommended. The following day we were meeting up with pro photographer and film maker Jen Randall as she was wanting to film Nat for an upcoming climbing movie. As well as Jen, we were also meeting up with some old friends Chris and Catherine Speakman who are lucky enough to live in the village of Settle only 10minutes drive from Malham!!!

Nat climbing "L'obsession" (7c+) - Photo by Will Caroll (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/7625377104_dcec7d4bc6_c.jpeg)

As we were there for only a short while we decided to do quicker ticks on easier routes (that and everything else was wet). We headed up to the Upper tier and attempted our first routes of the trip, "Herbie" (7c+) for myself and Nat, and "Obsession" (7b+) for Will. I had a good onsight burn on "Herbie" falling off high into the final crux whilst Nat's on her flash attempt was similar, falling only a couple of moves lower down. We both busted it out on our second attempt without much trouble, both climbing it in very different styles:

Nat - Slow, precise and completely statico!!!

Robbie - Fast, fluid and definitely not static :P

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/DSC_0484.jpg) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/DSC_0484.jpg)It's crazy watching Nat climb the same moves as me but in her own unique style. When I climb dynamically, she is generally very controlled. A good example of this was half-way through the crux on "Herbie" - you take a positive, fat pinch with your right hand and pull through to an even better pinch with your left. For me this was a big move and one that I preferred to do quickly... Nat just latched that pinch with vice-like grip and continued to lock slowly from straight arm to a completely full lock before she slowly release her left hand and eased it up to reach the next pinch with as much control and precision as a robotic arm in one of those Xsara Picasso adverts (I think she's from outer space - that or an android from the future).

Jen + Nat filming - Photo by Will Caroll (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/jen-and-nat.jpeg)

Will had already started battling with "Obsession" (7b+) alongside Chris who had joined us for the day. Nat and I moved onto our next climb for the day, a spicy little number recommended by a fellow climber at the crag, "L'Obsession" (7c+). I was keen to try my hand at onsighting this as I had made quite a good attempt on "Herbie". Unfortunately I didn't quite make it, I fell off on the last move of the crux (but only just). After climbing through and to the top I feel that if I had made the move I would actually have done the climb from there, but hey ho, thats just how the ball rolls in this old game we call onsight climbing.

It was Nat's turn now, I gave her as much beta as I could and she went for the flash attempt - this I think was the best climbing I saw all weekend! Nat cruised the crux making it look about 6a and then pathed up to the last clip at which point she got confused, I forgot what holds she was to use and she kind of gave up. She had an amazing burn on the flash, it's the best climbing I have seen her do at Malham and everyone was super impressed. Feeling as though I better do something quick before she burns me off again, I mustered up some psyche and quickly despatched "L'obsession" on my second try (it felt a lot easier after watching Nat climb it so well). Nat had a second go burn on it but unfortunately messed up then end more due to lack of skin than anything else in my opinion.

It was time to call it a day, so we headed back to camp and rested well before tomorrows climbing...

Day 2 - Malham Filming

Today was not my day, this was mostly dedicated to Nat and her film crew :P Jen Randall and Dom Bush filmed Nat climbing "L'obsession" (on the send) early on then got some good footage of her attempting "Toadall Recall" (8a). I attempted to retro-flash this route placing the draws as my first route of the day. I first tried this climb about 3 years ago, only once and had forgotten everything about it mostly so I was very happy when I made it through all the hard climbing and fell stupidly from the final crimpy face section staring at the chains. It wasn't so bad as I did it second go and it felt quite steady for the grade.

Will high on "Obsession" (7b+) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/willc1.jpg)

Nat tried it after I set up the ropes for filming. I bigged her up for the flash as I thought it would suit her. In general I think it did suit her style, but sometimes its difficult to tell if certain moves that I find "not too bad" won't be too shouldery or powerful for her. There is a big difference between girls and guys generally and although Nat could be stronger than me on some route types, powerful and shouldery moves are always going to be easier for me thanks to my height and genetically superior upper body strength (because I'm a guy). There was one move (the crux) up high that Nat basically couldn't reach without an insanely awkward and very contorted hand sequence - the move for me was a basic right hand press to reach a good crimp, hardly even worth calling the crux once I figured out the best foot beta.

Will was making fantastic progress on "Obsession" and had successfully made one of the coolest moves I've ever seen apart of his routine sequence (see pic). On the last attempt of the day, after he literally said to me whilst tying his climbing shoes "I'll just take the draws down when I reach the top", he made the send! It was a good climb and I can quite happily say that I think it was the best I've seen Will climb in all the years I've known him - GOOD JOB!

Will's crazy move! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/willc2.jpg)

Day 3 - Gordale... GOARN!!!!!!!!

GORDALE IS A VERY WOODY WORD ISN'T IT!?!?!?!

As I said before, I have never actually climbed here before yet I have heard so much about it! I have suffered years of friends telling me epic tales of climbing in the mega crag of Gordale. Fights 30+ metres up on "Supercool" (8a+) and other such giant routes that call Gordale home.

Me high on "Supercool" (8a+) - Photo by Will Caroll (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/robbie-supercool.jpeg)

Today I was keen to give this mega monolithic route a good go. I had a funny idea that I could give "Supercool" a good onsight burn, then hopefully do it second go, then try "Huecool" (8b) and hopefully do that second go too :P That would be a good day! Things never go quite as planned and if they had then I think I would probably be a little upset as I wouldn't have a totally awesome 8b to go back and try.

My onsight attempt on "Supercool" was really good! I made it fairly high into the route making it through the first crux and failing tickling the good hold on the second :( I felt it was not so bad as a second go would surely be on after working the moves a bit more. Realistically, I should have done this second go... I did all the cruxes and I was high up in the final few metres when I tickled a crimp a little lower than I had expected to get it which caused my nail to ping of the hold causing a sudden lapse of balance and sent me flying off the route. A wee bit angry with my stupid error, I got my "stuff" together and despatched 3rd try :D

I then quickly equipped "Huecool" (8b) knowing well that we hadn't much time left before we would head back home. "Huecool" was definitely a step up from "Supercool". I thought it odd though that the rock was very snappy, I figured this being a classic 8b with relatively a lot of traffic that the rock might have been a bit stronger... I quickly found out that this wasn't the case. I didn't get a good chance at working the crux properly but it felt pretty standard for an 8b crux (if a little bit tenuous) and I can't wait to get back there to finish it off!

Nat had a really good day at Gordale starting off with a mega flash burn on "Supercool" followed by an equally impressive second go attempt that saw her reaching the very final crux move (which she will need to figure out new beta for because it is obviously too spanned for her using my beta). After that she finished the day off onsighting the very awesome looking 7b+ "Revival" which she positively breezed up not accounting for the 100mph winds that day :P

Photo by Will Carrol (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/robbie-supercool1.jpeg)

Will also had a good day making a great attempt at "Revival" falling on the final crux section. Other friends of ours at the crag today Chris and James spent their time working the beastly looking 7b "Last Dog". By the end of the day Chris got to add this to his ever increasing tick list of 7b redpoints.

Conclusion

Not a bad wee trip to Yorkshire. Our tick lists were healthy, we had lots of fun and we got some mighty fine pictures and films taken. Thanks to Will Caroll, Jen Randall, Dom Bush and Catherine Speakman for taking some amazing photos and film during the trip :D

And Special thanks to Catherine for standing on the edge of Gordale to get the shots - thats what I call going beyond the call of duty!

Photo by Catherine Speakman (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/07/179504_10150957879182073_401013151_n.jpeg)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Gorge du Loup (Part 1)
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 12:47:50 am
Gorge du Loup (Part 1) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/gorge-du-loup/gorge-du-loup-part-1.html)
5 August 2012, 10:58 am

So we've been in France now for almost a week but haven't actually done much climbing as of yet :/ Me and Nat drove to France with Alex Barrows in his awesome orange van with the aim of first heading to La Balme, a popular locals crag 5 hours from Nice and from there we would then head to Gorge du Loup, an even better locals crag with some steep and  hard lines to get stuck into.

Alex high on a 7c at La Balme (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/grg1.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1826)

On first arriving at La Balme we found it to be insanely hot and humid. We had one days climbing there in which all three of us where pretty tired from the drive south and therefore not up to any hard climbing. This was further made harder with the fact that conditions where terrible, it could only be worse if the crag was sodden wet, but in reality, it was my hands that were continually dripping with sweat!

At La Balme, I came close on our first days climbing to doing a long 8a+ (I onsighted the original 7c+ first section) but it was just too hot and I was too tired. Alex did a 7c on the left hand side after much complaining of how hard it felt and Nat followed him with only one attempt at it. Not the best start, so we opted for a drive to Gorge du Loup earlier than expected to escape these hot temps.

We are now climbing at Gorge du Loup (Deverse Sector). We have only had two days climbing there so far but from what I have seen I am mega impressed. It's super steep, very gymnastic and bloody hard! I'm hoping it's because I'm still tired from traveling, I must admit that on todays rest day I have never felt so exhausted after two days climbing in my life... On the first day I did an 8a there called "Cascade" which in reality wasn't that hard, the holds were big, there were loads of kneebar rests but for some reason I just couldn't recover? I have been training had for this trip, harder than ever before and indoors I feel stronger than ever as well, but the initial transfer to outdoors has felt pretty abysmal. At the end of day 1 I tried and 8a+ called "Quossai" which I had marked down for an onsight attempt but upon trying it, each move felt like a V10 boulder and I thought it was impossible for me to climb...

Nat on the same 7c at La Balme (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/grg2.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1827)

On Day 2, things perked up a lot! I tried "Quossai" and after having only had a brief play on the route the day before, I fell off this time in the final section more due to my stupidity than anything else. I decided to rest myself from trying this until after a rest day and instead to try the 8b/+ variation out left called "Soul Sacrifice". I did all the moves quickly and linked sections together on my first try but it felt very hard for a supposed 8b. I spoke to a local and he said that a few holds have broken from the bottom and middle section which have now bumped the grade up a bit. Before it was considered an 8b/+ so now it probably is 8b+.

Nat has been on fire, she did an 8a second try on her first day and got high up on the retro-flash of another 8a called "Sika" (named for an obvious feature of the roue). I am going to have a flash attempt after a rest day and hopefully she will do it as well.

We have been climbing and chilling alongside friends of ours from England, Slovenia and Germany who we've met up with here. Ed and Sam Hamer drove out here with fellow Sheffield based climber Ethan Walker. From Slovenia, Gasper Pintar and Izidor Zupan. And from Germany, my old pal from Siurana, king of jokes and a 9a beast, Daniel Jung.

It's good to be out here climbing with friends and pushing it hard on the rocks. Nat and I have been still felt really tired physically and mentally after our travelling experiences but thanks to a good supply of Stoats bars, oatcakes and Porridge we have been keeping ourselves strong!

Psyched for more climbing tomorrow!

ROBZ OUT

Nat hiding in a cave from Alex, he can't find her... (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/grg3.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1828)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Gorges du Loup (Part 2)
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 12:47:50 am
Gorges du Loup (Part 2) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/gorge-du-loup/gorges-du-loup-part-2.html)
9 August 2012, 4:39 pm

So we have just had days 3 and 4 of climbing in the mega steep, mega drilled limestone sports crag of Gorges du Loup (Gorges of the Wolf). After days 1 and 2 of climbing here I thought perhaps it was just me, tired after a long drive south and experiencing a bit of travelers exhaustion. Now having climbed after a rest day, I am more convinced that the style here has more to do with the difficulties I am experiencing.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/grg14.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1841)

 

Climbing at Deverse sector in Gorges du Loup is a lot like climbing on a hard competition style route indoors. They are relentlessly difficult with long sustained sections and no real rests (unless your Alex Barrows and love knee bars). A lot of the climbing holds here are drilled finger pockets alongside tufa pinches and everything is from 15 degrees to 85 degrees overhanging. Resting is intense on these routes as you are always upside down in a knee bar whilst struggling with core body tension. Pain and blood rushing to the head are common themes of rests at Deverse. It's a constant struggle for survival on these routes and there are no techy tricks that can get you by the hard moves... it basically comes down to just pulling hard when your pumped. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/grg13.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1840)The subtleties in this crag are still there but they are of a different style to what I have accustomed myself in crags like Ceuse, Siurana and Malham - in these places you can find little foot placements that might aid you a lot with resting through a crux sequence or just allowing you to compose yourself. In Deverse subtleties are only there to help you pull your way to the next hold, a mistake or hesitation on these routes costs you everything because you now need to pull doubly hard to make the next move!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/grg11.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1838)I feel that the training I put into this trip perhaps was misguided slightly. I was expecting this same style of climbing but not the length, so most of my training that was centred around anaerobic endurance was done a lot on shorter circuits with no rests and intensive moves. The circuits might last anywhere from 1-4 minutes depending on my focus, but these routes at Deverse are longer than that and the rests that you need drain you as well. It would have been much better if I had focussed more on longer circuits and more boulder (strength/power) training.

Anyway, the last two days have been better... I did a popular 8a+ called "Quossai" which I haven't seen anybody "walk up" (which is always nice to see). I attempted to flash another 8a that Nat did called "Sika" but had an abysmal attempt failing shy of the chains. I was by no means close though as the crux is at the end. I went to the top of the extension, an 8b which was really good but with one intersting exception... every hold bar one was drilled. It was probably the most basic route I have ever climbed, but I don't think just any 8b climber could do it - it would require a level of power endurance beyond the norm. There are no jugs, no hard moves and certainly no rests!

The good news is I almost did a Gorges du Loup 8b/+ called "Soul Sacrifice" which is definitely an apt name for it. I feel like to do this route one has to sacrifice their soul to the god of power endurance which I would be more than happy to do if it gave me the ability to climb these routes :P I fell off just below the chains but totally powered out - looking forward to attempts after a rest day :D(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/grg18.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1843)

The final route of day 4 was "Hot Chilli X" (8c) which I have entered myself into alongside Izidor Zupan (Slovenian friend). Izidor is looking super strong on it and hopefully should do it before he goes home in a few days. Gasper Pintar, another slovenian friend did it a few days ago in an awesome display of pure fight, grit and determination. I was also really inspired watching the beast, Ed Hamer casually flash the bottom part of this route linking in with the 8a "Deverse Satanique" which he had climbed before. The link is given 8b+ and although you can't technically call it a flash, IT WAS!!! Ed belayed me on my first look at "Hot Chilli X", at the same time talking me through the moves. I can definitely see how this route is flashable for someone as strong as Ed, the holds are all positive, it's just the footholds that are non-existent. It is pure resistance climbing, no really hard moves, just lots of them and wait for it... NO REST!!!

I'm looking forward to finishing of "Soul Sacrifice" (8b/+) after another rest day and then hopefully putting my last remaining efforts into "Hot Chilli X".

ROBZ OUT

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/grg20.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1844)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Gorges du Loup (Part 3)
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 12:47:51 am
Gorges du Loup (Part 3) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/gorge-du-loup/gorges-du-loup-part-3.html)
19 August 2012, 8:46 am

It's amazing how quickly time flies when having fun...

That is as the saying goes but it's not entirely been true this trip. Time has flown by for me but I haven't been enjoying myself as much as I should have been. It's a common theme when pushing your own personal boundaries, when you're not going well, having fun seems to be a lot harder. What a stupid way to be though right? Why should having fun correlate directly with performing your best at the activity you are doing? It shouldn't realistically, I tell this to all the kids I coach every time they are competing or going for it outdoors... It's one thing giving the advice but it's another taking it...

When you put "All you eggs in one basket" it makes life a lot harder to enjoy when things don't go as planned. I had planned this trip to improve on Siurana (earlier this year) with potentially another 8c and hopefully another 8b+ or two. I was also hoping to step my onsight grade up a bit which has been somewhat lacking in attempts over the last year - but instead, I've probably had the most unsuccessful climbing trip since my first trip to Ceuse (which ended in basically no actual ascents harder than my warm ups)! So yes... initially I was very upset with my performance. Nat tried to help me but I am quite a difficult person to console when down in the dumps. But you can't spend the whole time sulking can you? Well I managed to, but life goes on :)

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/grg16.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1851)A week ago I did the classic 8a/+ of the crag "Deverse Satanique" and after a rest day, did the left hand variation of it as well called "Deverse SatanX" which goes at 8b. Young Buster Martin climbed this earlier in the year so I was really keen to check it out and see what it was all about. The climbing on the lower section shared with the 8a/+ was sustained and pumpy but with no hard moves - if there wasn't a rest before the split for the 8b then for sure it would make the last section feel a lot harder but thankfully there was a nice little "mushroom" shaped hold that provided the perfect shake before hitting the final head wall, a vertical wall on positive but small crimps and pockets. As most of you will know now from Facebook, Nat made "SatanX" her first 8b as well shortly after I did it in very quick succession. She is definitely capable of climbing a lot harder! Lets put it this way, if she spent as much time figuring out the perfect beta as some of the climbers at the crag, then she would climb 8c as quickly as she did 8b :P

Since climbing those awesome routes, I have tried a number of routes from 8b-8c and basically got spanked on every one. I fell off clipping the chains four times on one of them, and was making it to the end of another 8b falling just looking at the chains! I have never felt so totally out of my depth in a climbing area as I have here. For most of the trip my mind has been clouded by high expectations and a feeling that I really should be doing better than this, but it can't always go our way can it? If it did then we would never learn anything and therefore never progress...

The city lights below our beautiful camping spot... (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/grg101.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1852)

We have two more days before we go home now - I am in the process of preparing my next training plan for after Kalymnos in October which should hopefully get me fit and strong for next spring. I am not going to make the same mistakes as this time for sure. I'll post my new plan as soon as I have finished with it for everyone to see and comment :D

ROBZ OUT

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: QuickDraw Club @ Hepburn
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 12:47:53 am
QuickDraw Club @ Hepburn (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/outdoor-meets/quickdraw-club-hepburn.html)
27 August 2012, 9:22 pm

On a beautiful sunny day, where better go than on a bouldering trip to Northumberland!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/hpb6.jpeg)

Yesterday, Neill Busby and myself went with the Edinburgh based kids climbing club, the QuickDraw Club, bouldering at the popular Northumbrian crag of Hepburn. I've been here twice before, once on a cool crisp winters day and again on stiflingly hot summers day. Sunday however was neither hot nor cold, it was pleasant enough and perfect conditions for a fun day of climbing on Northumberland sandstone.

Rory Whyte warming up on the classic cracks of Hepburn (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/hpb1.jpeg)

The group of kids attending ranged in ability levels from top competition climbers eager for some hard sends to recreational youth climbers keen for a fun and sociable day out climbing with friends and family.

Jodie Brown warming up... (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/hpb2.jpeg)

That is indeed what the QuickDraw club does so well, bringing the youth climbing scene in Edinburgh together so that both kids and parents can have fun climbing irrespective of grades and goals. QuickDraw meets are fun days out for everyone!

Kirsten on the F6C - She just latched the crimp and matched (The Crux) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/hpb4.jpeg)

Buz had been to Hepburn before as I had, last time with another group of kids, so he had already a good circuit of problems planned. The aim was to start off with some easier problems (good for warming up on) on a shorter boulder in the central area. The selection here was exceptional for the standard of kids we had, with a good range of blocs from F3 to F6C, everyone had something to go at. We all warmed up on two classic crack problems at about F3/4 - it got everyone moving well on rock again as crack aren't the most obvious of features to breeze up (unless your Tom Randall). After warming up a bit on those, Buz and I chose a couple of problems a bit harder for the kids to go at. I started off with a tricky F6A which I thought was more like F6C and another bloc to the right given F6C that I thought could be F6A, however the guide was 100% clear which ones were which, it even gave descriptions, so something was off there. A bunch of the kids flashed the apparent F6C whilst only one or two did the F6A :P

Adam Brown working his way up the flake! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/hpb3.jpeg)

After climbing at the main area we headed down for lunch, a QuickDraw Barbecue!!! These guys really know how to run a climbing trip! In between sessions at the crag just pop down for a sausage roll and some chicken soup :P YUM! Forgot to mention of course the fruit loaf :P

Like Father... (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/hpb7.jpeg)

Like Son... (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/hpb7.jpeg)

Next up Buz and I split the group, he took the older girls and boys whilst I took the younger kids. They headed up and around towards the upper section of Hepburn whilst my group headed towards the "Northern Soul" boulder, not before checking out a few blocs that I hadn't been to before but saw in the guide. Unfortunately thanks to the wet weather this year, all the greenery seems to have grown quite a bit, masking the "path" and making finding this elusive sector slightly trickier. We eventually found it and did a few class slab problems - the most exciting bit was when young Adam Brown was close to topping, when suddenly he slid down the face of the boulder straight into his dads arms :P He did it next go though!

Evan creeping his way up the slopers to the finishing jugs... just in sight! Don't worry, Grandad is spotting! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/hpb8.jpeg)

The "Northern Soul" boulder was too hard for the kids, however "Titanic Arete" boulder had a fun (and slightly green) F5+ for everyone, and back at the "Northern Soul" boulder was a smaller one in front that offered a few class blocs from F4-F6A. The trickiest bit about those are the top-outs (SLOPERS!!!) and for kids that boulder would be a high ball for sure :P I think we may have the future Kevin Jorgeson's of Scotland!

Declan slapping on "The Keel" (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/hpb9.jpeg)

To finish off, we headed back along the crag to just beyond where we started. Everyone tried their hand at a number of problems, one in particular that was spitting everyone off left right and centre was "The Keel"! Not sure on the grade but it was an awesome feature that takes some compression ability (something the kids weren't used to) as well as mantling skills on slopers (again, something none of us are that used to).

We all packed up after that and headed back to the cars. Everyone was tired after the days climbing not to mention seeing a few raw tips. Everyone had a good day out in the end and I think I can speak for all when I say that "I can't wait until the next one" :P

Another good day out climbing, thats what sunny days are for :D

ROBZ OUT

Matthew in control on "The Keel"... but not for long :P (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/blog-images/robz/2012/08/hpb10.jpeg)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Connor Moore - Rock Prodigy
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 12:47:54 am
Connor Moore - Rock Prodigy (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/youth-coaching/connor-moore-rock-prodigy.html)
12 September 2012, 3:06 pm

"As a Coach, my inspiration often comes from those I work with. Coaching kids in particular is incredibly fulfilling, especially with those that live and breathe climbing."   One boy I coach who has in my opinion, an affinity with climbing, is Connor Moore. He has just turned 11 years old and I have never met anybody who loves climbing as much as him. To say, being "obsessed" with climbing describes Connor, is a bit of an understatement... I'd say he defines the term "obsessed"! Anyone who remarks to his piano teacher that the difficult part of his piano recital is the crux obviously has climbing on the brain.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/286983_3906541415612_860269248_o.jpg)Connor and Katie Moore at SYCC's Connor has been training really hard this year. His goal was to make finals at the YCS earlier in the year but unfortunately, his regional category (Youth D) is one of the strongest I have ever seen with nearly every boy in the top 5 capable of making finals! Connor just missed out this year but thankfully it didn't hold him back, instead it only made him more determined.

Since then, he has been climbing in Spain (Siurana), demoed for YCS Finals and even beat me at speed climbing :P In Siurana earlier this year he showed his true abilities on rock by climbing 7a+ on one of the boldest, most daunting sectors of Siurana, El Cargol. To have achieved this at his age is amazing and goes to show what hard work and determination can do for you.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/gallery/Coaching-Trips/Siurana-2012/connor-loves-to-fight.jpg)Connor battling it out in Siurana Connor has just redpointed his first 7b at Ratho as well (YCS Girls Youth C Final Route). This was a big project for him and he has finally completed it which was amazing to see :D Not only that, but on the same day he onsighted his first 6c on lead, another big accomplishment for him! This all happened two days before the Scottish Youth Climbing Championships, his last big competition goal for 2012. He had obviously peaked just in time for the competition and I was hoping he would do well. Here is an account from Connor himself:

 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0907.jpg)Connor Moore looking determined on his 7b project   08:45  First I came in and had a quick look at all the routes, then I got warmed up realising that they were not doing a group warm up! (THAT WAS ANNOYING!) I warmed up doing 1,2,3,4,5, then did some stretches and finished my warm up with 4* v1, then 2*v2.

  09:15 I route mapped my routes (black estimate 6c+ and a white 6a on the gore text wall).  The black looked really reachy over the gore text sign and at the final crux.  There were four cruxes overall.  Each crux used slopers and rockovers so I thought I would do ok.  The last move looked hard.  I knew I would have to do a half rockover and then jump dynamically to a reasonable jug.  The white looked all positive and pretty easy.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/gallery/Competitions/SYCC2012/DSC_0899.jpg)Connor making the very balance, subtle and delicate press move into the horrible sloper hold on his first 7b... This move requires brilliant balance, co-ordination, skill and commitment!  09:30 The starting order for my group was put up at the top of the arena steps.  There were ten boys in my group so that meant four places for the final.  I found that I was to climb first.  I tried to take this positively but found it hard.  I asked Scott what route I would be doing first.  Unfortunately he said it would be the black as my first route.

  09:45 Nat demoed the black and made it look very easy.  I wasn't sure if I could make all the reaches.  I knew I would have to be dynamic in places.  I did one last warmup and got my harness and 5:10s on.  I was then ready and psyched for the route.  I started the route fast and in no time at all I was four holds from the top.  I chalked up for the last crux.  I knew this was going to be hard.  I had my left hand on a sloper and my right foot on a small positive foot hold.  I started rocking over half way, bumped up and went for the move.  I found that I easily reached the hold but didn't manage to stick it.  I think I had actually gone just beyond the hold.  I came off on the third last hold.  I was slightly annoyed and realised that everyone else in my category had a good chance to get it.  Euan Farmer was up next and think he just slapped the same hold.  Then it was Matthew who got to the same point again.  Then time flew and Rory Whyte was up.  He took his time below but in true Rory style managed to stick the crux and top out.  So it was Rory in first followed by me, Euan and Matthew joint in second.

  11:00 ish Everyone topped the white apart from one boy.  So it was me, Rory, Euan and Matthew through to the final.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/gallery/Competitions/SYCC2012/connor%20on%20q1.jpg)Connor on Qualifier 1, the white 6a+/b   12:00 ish I wasn't too fussed about the speed competition, but thought it would be good to keep warm.  I did a practise speed climb and then my two qualifiers pretty much one after the other.  My route was only to the half way mark and I was allowed to use the extra jugs.  My qualifying times were 9:06 and 9:00 seconds which put me into the speed final as second fastest.

  15:30 I was in isolation in the booulder room.  After 5 minutes in the boulder room we all came out to map the final route.  My final route was a purple (7a+ but didn't know it at the time) to the left of the justice wall and a route that the youth c boys had in qualifiers.  I was pleased because I had watched David and Sam top this earlier.  We then went to isolation.  I went over my route map and tried to match up the holds on the route to holds in the boulder room and to match moves on the route to practise moves in the boulder room.  I was now raring to go.  I was nervous, but knew that the purple was my kind of route and felt quite confident in my head.

  (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0868.jpg)Connor in the Bouldering room trying out my new UpSkill Knee pads! 16:00 I came out of isolation not knowing how Euan and Matthew had done before me.  I started the purple fast then got to the horrible pockets and hesitated.  I then worked on to come to one of the last cruxes where I had a horrible slopery crimp and had to go to a crimp being dynamic.  I made the move and continued to the top with some fairly technical moves.  I was really pleased but wans't sure where I had come.  Rory was up next and started slower and came off about half way up.  Unfortuneately he hurt his finger.  My Dad thought it would be close between Matthew and me as we were the only two to top the route.  Buzz told me the route was 7a+.  I was really pleased. (http://gfx1.hotmail.com/mail/w4/pr04/ltr/emo/smile.gif)

 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/gallery/Competitions/SYCC2012/DSC_0920.jpg)Connor setting up for a hard lock into a side-pull from which he can get a quick rest and then into the crux! 16:45 I was up against Thomas Ryan in the semi finals of the speed.  I heard that Thomas beat me by 0.02 seconds and think our times were about 8 seconds.  Euan Farmer won the speed and I came third after winning the runners up race against Matthew.

  18:00 I was second on the podium for routes and third for speed.  Katie came third in her routes and fifth in speed (which was also against the older youth D girls).  David also came second in the routes.  (http://gfx1.hotmail.com/mail/w4/pr04/ltr/emo/smile.gif)(http://gfx1.hotmail.com/mail/w4/pr04/ltr/emo/hot_smile.gif)

Conz out

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/gallery/Competitions/SYCC2012/youth%20d%20podium.jpg)Youth D Podium (Euan Farmer 3rd, Connor Moore 2nd, Matthew Fall 1st)  

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: QuickDraw Club @ Benny Beg
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 12:47:55 am
QuickDraw Club @ Benny Beg (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/uk/quickdraw-club-benny-beg.html)
24 September 2012, 12:32 pm

Yesterday was yet another fantastic day out climbing with the QuickDraw Club (http://www.quickdrawclimbingclub.org.uk) kids. Last time (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/outdoor-meets/quickdraw-club-hepburn.html) (PHOTOS HERE (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=12&Itemid=171)) I was with them we headed to a Northumbrian crag called Hepburn (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9654) for a spot of bouldering, however, this time we headed north of Edinburgh to the popular sport venue of Benny Beg (https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Benny_Beg).

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/BennyBeg_0006.jpg)

The Quartz/Dolerite crag situated near Crieff is a brilliant venue for a day out climbing quality, low-grade sport routes. You could literally come here and climb about 30+ routes in a day if you really wanted to. Apparently it is also rarely wet and even if it was to start raining, the fact that the car park is about 30 seconds walk from the base of the cliff means access and retreat are easy to plan :P Not to mention there is a cafe right next door and if your feeling particularly arty, there is even a "Make Your Own Ceramics" workshop next door! You just can't beat building your own teacup after a day at the crag :P

I drove up to Benny Beg alongside Sam Harland-Sendra, David Miedzybrodksi and Sam's Dad Fabrice. We where amongst the first to arrive but it wasn't long before the others showed up. Sam, David and I spent the time waiting watching young Euan Farmer's superb skills with a Diablo!

When everybody arrived, I met up with Neill Busby and Lisandor Defays (the two other coaches) to discuss which groups each of us would be taking and who would be doing what for the day. Buz took the younger kids who hadn't done any leading, Lisandro had the middle kids who had done a bit of leading before and I took the older kids who where competent leaders but needed some more experience doing the re-threading at the top. Although we were focussing on some ropewrok skills during the session, a lot of the day was mainly just having fun and climbing!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/BennyBeg_0010.jpg)Lisandro(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/BennyBeg_0004.jpg)Busby

QuickDraw (http://www.quickdrawclimbingclub.org.uk) days are great for all the kids no matter what age, ability or discipline they focus on. The day brings everybody together whether it's someone who is just trying out climbing for the first time or an experienced competition climber. The greatest thing about these trips is the social atmosphere and relaxed attitude everybody adopts for the day. Some of these kids are pretty focussed on their training, but today it's just for fun and to hang with friends.

During the day I worked mostly with the older kids:

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/BennyBeg_0089.jpg)

Keira Farmer

 

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/BennyBeg_0022.jpg)Sam Harland-Sendra

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/BennyBeg_0012.jpg)Scott Gowens and David Johnston

 

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/BennyBeg_0008.jpg)David Miedzybrodski

 

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Benn-Beg_0131.jpg)Jodie Brown

 

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Benn-Beg_0113.jpg)Kirsten Gray

 

So this was my team for the day even though Kirsten was very un-fashionably late! :P Everybody got a lot of climbs done on lead and plenty of practice re-threading at the top.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Benn-Beg_0124.jpg)David, Kirtsen and David re-threading at the top

Although there was nothing particularly challenging for this group of kids, they learned some useful rope skills that will come in handy for future climbing trips.

In the other groups, Busby and Lisandro where getting the younger kids to test their skills at leading, most of which had never done before! Declan Currie managed to get his first ever lead outdoors 6a onsight and Stephanie Miller did her first ever lead... FULLSTOP. Thats mega to do your first lead ever on an outdoor route!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/BennyBeg_0024.jpg)Adam Brown sending a Benny Beg Classic!

 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/gallery/Coaching-Trips/BennyBeg/bennybeg_0017.jpg)Declan Curre staring at the chains on the 6a lead (I think?)

 

 Another good day with QuickDraw Club (http://www.quickdrawclimbingclub.org.uk)! Thanks Guys, looking forward to the next one :D

 

ROBZ OUT

P.S. FOR MORE PHOTO, VISIT MY MEDIA SECTION LINKED HERE! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=23&Itemid=207)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Footwork, Footwork, Footwork...
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 07:00:41 pm
Footwork, Footwork, Footwork... (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/footwork/footwork-footwork-footwork.html)
20 September 2012, 11:59 pm

"Footwork is the foundation for an efficient climbing style, it's not something to be taken ligthly and forgotten after you've reached a certain level..." You will often hear climbers/coaches going on and on about the importance of good footwork, but to be frank, I don't think many of them actually know why it's important and what good footwork actually looks like...

 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/5018567544_307b3afd1e.jpg)Heel-Toe on a lip - I'll need to position my foot perfectly to rock up onto the lip Good footwork doesn't mean that your feet never pop off, nor does it mean you will have imaculate climbing shoes with no holes for the rest of your life, and it definitely does NOT mean you don't make a sound when you climb :P

When you first start climbing, your footwork is the first thing you learn to improve. The instructor will say:

"Try not to make a sound when you place your feet" "Take a few seconds to place each foot before you let it touch the hold" Although these are great to think about when you are a beginner, there comes a time when it simply becomes inefficient to climb like this and realistically, your ability isn't governed by how quiet you can be. You certainly don't see Adam Ondra moving slowly up the wall taking extra care on every foot placement. That's because it is inefficient and he has learned foot techniques that are far beyond what we learn as beginner climbers.



Fast Foot (Not Food!) The placing of your foot is imperative to the efficiency of your technique. A precicely placed foot will mean maximum range of movement throughout your leg from the pivoting ability of your foot which in turn gives your whole body more range of movement. As a beginner you learn to place your feet accurately, so as you progress as a climber, you now need to learn how to accurately place your feet quicker so you save more energy.

"Speed is a fundamental skill necessary for top performances!"

If you can learn to accurately place feet quickly and precisely, then you could increase efficiency of your climbing multiple times! The best way to learn this is simply to practice during your warm up moving quicker whilst have to place your feet on smaller footholds. You can also include practice on this whilst trying hard routes and boulders but by focussing on moving quicker for maximum efficiency.



On the Pull... As a beginner we learn how to place our feet then push, but rarely do we think that they can do any more than this... Why then are performance climbing shoes downturned by nature? This is to allow them to act like Talons, to hook and grab at a foothold to allow us to pull in on them as well as push for better grip and manoeverability.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Toe_Robbie.jpg)Pulling down on the toes takes weight of your arms and can provide force for powerful moves  

If you can learn to pull with your feet, you can shift your centre of gravity inwards and even take massive amounts of weight off your arms! Pulling with your toes can allow you to move in several different ways:

 

 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Malham_toe_down.jpg)On "Mescalito" (7c+) at Malham I am using my left toe to pull my body weight in for the rock over

 

"A foot is for life, not just for Christmas..."

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: British Lead Climbing Championships 2012 (Youth)
Post by: comPiler on October 14, 2012, 04:59:31 pm
British Lead Climbing Championships 2012 (Youth) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/british-lead-climbing-championships/british-championships-2012.html)
8 October 2012, 10:50 pm

What can I say... this last weekend has been spectacular with some amazing performances by some truly incredible athletes. I can't begin to explain just how amazed I am at how the level of British climbing has leaped forward in the last few years both at Youth and Senior level.

Unfortunately, both days I forgot my camera (D'oh) but no worries, Facebook is a great place to pilfer photos from. Saturday was an Epic day, with excitment and adrenaline seen from practically every corner of EICA. I had friends and coached kids in every category of the competition and was very happy to see everyone enjoying themselves, no tears from what I saw (something that I have seen less and less of in recent years) and in general, a great vibe from those competing, spectating and volunteering.

The kids that I coach competing where:

 

 

All of them did fantastically well and achieved some outstanding results.

Youth C Boys David Miedzybrodski was competing in his first year of Youth C in his first ever BLCC. This was only ment to be an experience for him, so that he knows what to expect for the next year.

David is one of the most impressive kids I coach. His discipline to training and focus for learning is rivaled by few and yet he is only 12 years old. Although this is great for a developing climber, experience and competition practice is necessary for success in these events. As William Bosi told me:

"It's not the strongest climber who wins the competition, it's he/she who make the least mistakes!" David started of shakily with a difficult move low down on his first qualifier, a reachy dynamic throw for a positive granite style pinch. Unfortunately, David was a little short on this move and needed to move a lot more dynamically to make the move. This is an area he needs to work on and because he didn't commit, he fell. This was distressing for David, but a good lesson learned!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/66386_10151428487965828_270937752_n.jpg)Alex Puccio in the Senior Womans Category - The same route as the Youth C Boys first qualifier. Photo from BMC Facebook

The second qualifier was a lot better! He made it all the way to the final move but upon reaching a similarly dynamic move as on the last climb, he got stuck in his tracks. He froze and couldn't do much apart from hang on. Eventually he lost power and fell.

David was disapointed with his competition day but I know it did him good. You can't  go throughout life without failing, otherwise you would never succeed. David will come back with avengance next year!

Rory Cargil was also competing in the Youth C boys category and in my opinion had a very good competition even if he thinks it wasn't, but hey, when you expect to win it's sometimes difficult to swallow when you don't.

Rory was first up on the first qualifier and got very high up before falling due to numb fingers (it was very cold). It was all god though because he had done enough to make 2nd place on the first route with only one guy getting higher (and only just). On the second route he topped with ease and was straight into the final in 2nd place!

The final was a tough route and it's definitely a harder job going into final in 2nd place with everything to lose! Easier if you scrape into the final and just have to climb all out - but thats part of the deal with competitions...

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/400889_10151428697005828_659661244_n.jpg)Rory Cargil on his final route - Photo from BMC Facebook

The competition was won by Jack Graham with a phenomenal attack on the final route which got him much higher than everybody else. I must say though that a big shout out has to go to Aiden Dunne for what I thought was an immensly impressive performance for someone so small. Like Rory and David, Aiden is in his first year at Youth C and has an amazing career in climbing to look forward to I am positive.

 

Youth C Girls Rebecca Kinghorn was competing in the Youth C Girls category. She was YCS Champion in this category earlier in the year and missed out on Scottish Champion to fellow competitor and all-round beast Emma Powell.

Rebecca had a fantastic day competing. Qualifier one she topped alongside everyonelse in the category. You could argue that maybe this route was a bit easy for the competition, but as long as the next route splits the field it doesn't really matter. Having an easy first qualifier puts the pressure on for the second qualifier, so it is good experience for these kids regardless.

The second qualifier was a lot harder! A green route moving up the middle groove of the old competition wall. It was set by Lisandro Defays and he told me it was probably around 7a+/b in terms of the grade. It looked pretty techy all the way on big round slopers and pinches, but as the wall steepened towards the end, the climbing intensified and became a lot more dynamic between crimps. The last move was a hard lock (or jump depending on height) from two very small edges to a big toilet seat jug! Rebecca fell of on this move, only a little bit higher than Hannah Slaney who was ranked second at then end of Qualifiers.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/61140_10151428694085828_1785756642_n.jpg)Rebecca qualifying in 1st place on her second route - Photo from BMC Facebook

Rebecca went into Finals in 1st position and was looking very much in a league of her own when it came to the final route. She cruised up the entire climb with very little seeming to stop her continual progression. A slight hesitation as she was heading into the final head wall before the roof seemed to put everyone watching on edge (but at this point she had already won), then she just sorted it out and continued to climb :P She made it all the way into the roof and unfortunately messed a clip up which if she had made she wouldn't have been forced to let go.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/183409_10151428699020828_1517765349_n.jpg)Rebecca Kinghorn about to let go, she should have clipped earlier - Photo from BMC Facebook

Rebecca won in her last year of Youth C and next year she will be going to international competitions competing for Great Britain!

Youth B Boys The toughest category in my opinion with at least 8 boys capable of making a podium. Angus Davidson was coming back for a hat trick having already been British Champion twice before in the last two years. It was going to be hard this year as William Bosi has made some fantatsic progress and has already achieved 4th in the World, 6th in Europe and is Scottish Champion this year!

Other competitors such as Jim Pope, Pete Dawson, Alex Waterhous and Billy Ridal all had high hopes for grabbing the title as well. Not forgetting our Irish brothers Dom Burns and Jamie Rankin too who were eager to show us all up with their impressive climbing skills.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/560405_10151428700085828_1874026696_n.jpg)Billy Ridal climbing exceptionally well in the final - Photo from BMC Facebook

Angus and William both impressed everyone with how far they have come this last year. After the first qualifier, William and Angus where in 1st and 2nd already (angus equal with Dom). The second qualifier looked a lot harder but amazingly got topped compared with no tops for the first qualifier. William, Angus, Dom, Alex and Billy all topped that second qualifier graded at 7b+ and set by the master of crimps and vert climbing, Neil Mcgeachy.

The final was incredible with the top 6 from the qualifiers all competing:

The final route was an incredible climb going up the middle of the new comp wall. Graded at around 8a+ and set by Yann Genoux, it looked perfect for both the finalists and the spectators with some wild moves on crazy overhangng terrain. In the end, it was a battle between the two top positions from qualifiers, William and Angus. Both of them made it into the final roof, a lot further than the previous high point which was Pete Dawson who fell just going for the hold before the roof. Angus was in the roof making it look pretty steady when his foot popped before making the move that would have retained his title. William made another legendary performance and snatched it from him with the margin of only 1+ point (a hold and a slap).

William Bosi is the new British Champion!

             (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/576311_10151428701575828_1643209948_n.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/554066_10151428700970828_1838116856_n.jpg)

                             William Bosi                                  Angus Davidson

  Youth B Girls The Youth B girls is yet another competetive category with the top position being fought between two girls who are both world class, Molly Thompson-Smith and Tara Hayes. In the end, Tara was triumphant over Molly in a spectacular performance on their final route.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/637_10151428702185828_2131312681_n.jpg)Molly beasting it - Photo from BMC Facebook

Also in the category was Eilidh Vas Payne and Jodie Brown, both locals at EICA who climbed well and who I hope are using the comp for motivation and experience for next years competitions :D

Youth A Boys The Youth A boys is a big category with a lot of guys with a lot of competition experience. Amongst them was Scott Keirr, Jack Gomersall and Scott Donaldson from Aberdeen, all of which I coach through GCRS and Scott who is also doing coaching experience work with me.

Scott is a tough guy to beat as he is also the YCS Youth A Boys Champion for 2012 and is one of the best boulderers in the UK.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/66192_10151428702605828_147171225_n.jpg)Buster Martin on the Final - Photo from BMC Facebook

The competition in the end though was won by the British Team kids mostly with podiums 1st, 2nd and 3rd achieved by Byrne Connor, Luke Dawson and Buster Martin respectively. Byrne was was also Scottish Champion a few weeks ago nabbing the title from Scott who placed 2nd.

Jack Gomersall and Scott Donaldson also did well in the event with 13th and 17th place respectively. Also, not forgetting Edinburgh local Fraser Macilwraith who placed 12th, not bad for a boulderer :P If he had crimped any harder on his first quali on which he looked utterly confused, the holds would have ripped of the wall :P

 

Youth A Girls The Youth A Girls is yet another fight for the top 3 positions between a number of very talented and ambitious climbers. Rachel Carr, Eleanor Hopkins, Rebekka Drummond, Sarah Pashley, Ellie Rymer, Christie Macelod, Naomi Tilley and Sophi Fitchett. All of them have achieved a lot in the years they have been climbing and in some respects all of them have the ability to do very well in this competition.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/528751_10151428702410828_1414571939_n.jpg)Rachel Carr taking a whipper! - Photo from BMC Facebook

During the day though it was definitelty a battle for podium places between Eleanor, Rachel, Rebekka and Sarah. In the end it was Rachel who came out on top fresh after a victory at the Scottish Open. Sarah was a close 2nd followd by Eleanor and then Rebekka.

Great effort everyone!

 

Junior Boys Junior Boys is a group that has continued to show world class status time and time again and so was always going to be a difficult decider. Jonathan Stocking and Luke Tilley where the two top contendors both at World Elite in the Junior category. Following on from them is local wad Calum Forsyth who has over the last few years made some amazing competition performances. Jonathan Field (formerly Local) was also a strong contendor for podium and his experience in competition is invaluable and certainly not to be taken lightly. There is also Tom Bonnert from Sheffield and newcomer Will Smith not forgetting screamer.

In the end, with two tops Luke and Jonny where gunning for 1st and 2nd place with Jonny Field and Calum on their heels in 3rd and 4th place before finals. The final route was the same as for the Youth A and B Boys. Jonny took the Championship though with a spectacularly strong performance. Luke was 2nd, Calum was 3rd and Jonny Field 4th.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/488132_10151428489400828_944199471_n.jpg)Luke Tilley competing in the Senior Category of the BLCC - Photo from BMC Facebook

Interesting to note that if Youth B had been combined with Juniors and Youth A on the same route, William Bosi would have been second overall beating everyone but Jonny Stocking with only one slap to a hold difference separating them!

 

Junior Girls The Junior Girls is always a bit disapointing in terms of numbers attending unfortunately, though this doesn't rule out their awesome talent. This year we were lucky to have Swiss beast Amanda Rohner taking part also which definitely adds a bit more competition to the British Girls. Amanda is a friend of Natalie's from her years competing internationally and I had met her a number of times before at comps and whilst abroad climbing on rock.

It was a tough event and the girls gave all they had on every route. Charlotte Garden was the favourite to win on the GB side but nobody was quite sure whether Amanda could snatch it from her to bring it home to Switzerland.

Come the final, Charlotte was leading in 1st place with Amanda on her heels in second, then Jenny Wood and Jess Mcaskey in 3rd and 4th. Without a doubt though, when the finals were held, Amanda looked stronger on the steep relentless comp wall and simply crushed! Charlotte did fantastic on the route but was a few holds lower with Jenny only a + point lower again!

 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/427858_10151427158555828_229103653_n.jpg)Amanda Rohner on the Qualifier during Junior Girls - Photo from BMC Facebook

  Conclusion And that concludes the Youth BLCC's. Definitely an exciting day and one that I hope can be repeated and improved upon during next years event. I am going to review the Senior event next but would like to add more personal experience from that as I was competing in it, so stay tuned for more very soon!

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: British Lead Climbing Championships 2012 (Senior)
Post by: comPiler on October 14, 2012, 04:59:35 pm
British Lead Climbing Championships 2012 (Senior) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/british-lead-climbing-championships/british-lead-climbing-championships-2012-senior.html)
10 October 2012, 10:42 pm

Last weekend I competed in the 2012 British Climbing Championships (BLCC's) at EICA: Ratho in Edinburgh. I had not competed in a lead climbing competition since the previous years BLCC and have not regularly competed throughout the year in a few years.

It was a bit of a last minute decision to compete as I was supposed to be missing the event to go to Kalymnos for coaching work but unfortunately due to unforseen circumstances I had to cancel the trip :( So there I was at home with nothing to do! I was previously down for setting the BLCC's but had to cancel that as well because of Kalymnos so in a last minute ditch attempt to get some work I phoned Rob Adie (BMC Competitions Co-ordinator) to see if I could get put back on for setting. Unfortunately (although now I would say fortunately) he had already replaced me with a fantastic route setter from London, Yann genoux, who I had the pleasure of meeting in the week prior to the event.

The only option left was to compete myself or drift lazily into the crowd and avoid it entirely. Of course, as I am always up for a challenge I opted for the former and made sure I was up extra early on the day of the event so I could register myself.

Turns out if you register late, as a punishment they put you at the front of the startlist! So I was due to go straight up and climb the first route very early on before everyonelse. I tell you I wasn't looking forward to this... fortunately another guy registered late and took with it my first place in the startlist so I was second. Unfortunately I wouldn't have wished it happened to this particular guy as it was Eoin Acton of Ireland and at only 15 years old was the youngest and smallest in the Senior Mens category.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/227478_10150942646747395_1624950152_n.jpg)Eoin Acton on the Mens Q1

The first route was an Orange line of mini-jugs and crimps going through the double roofs of the Old Competition Wall up until a pockety finale! It was set by Yann Genoux and looked to be a fun route. As everyone route read the climb together, Jonny White spotted a cheeky "clock" sequence at the top which he was more than happy to share with me, once again showing the very unique style of person that climbing attracts - only in climbing would you get competitors trying to help each other :P

After a good warm up, Eoin and myself stepped into the arena and sat down in front of the route. We both tied in and Eoin stepped forward to climb. Before he started he looked nervous so I told him just to relax, enjoy the climbing and that he had nothing to prove seeing as he had competed in the Youth A the day before, so this is just a bonus... He didn't seem to relax anyway :P But regardless he did fantastic being the first climber on and managed to make it high into the final stretch qualifying in 14th!

It was my turn now, as I stepped up to the climb I remember a tingly warm sensation in my fingertips. I had warmed up well and had made sure to keep my shoes and fingers warm in my down jacket whilst sitting down - I was perfectly prepped for the route and nothing could go wrong. As I climbed the first half of the route I remember thinking:

"Wow! This is easy for a first qualifier!" I was climbing quite quickly between each section and managing to get rests in all the right places. As I pulled over the second roof I remember a wierd sequence that Eoin had done but being a lot taller I stuck to my own memorised sequence and calmy made it through. The last stint looked tricky from the ground but when I reached it everything was pretty straight-forward.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/644654_10151427152610828_1756859652_n-1.jpg)Ed Hamer cruising the Mens Q1

The clock sequence was upon me, I had thought that this would be the tricky bit... On the contrary, I could rest at this point! The last move was there, I could see the final hold, I locked off the positive 2 finger pocket, stretched higher... higher... higher... and at the last minute popped for the final jug... HELD!!!

PHWOAAAARRRRR!!! Deep breathes, pressure is off :P I was really happy to top the first route but at the same time a little worried... If I could top it surely everybody else would. All the strong climbers in the category where sure to make it easily... But it didn't happen... A lot of climbers fell off the last move with only 6 out of 18 (1/3) making a top!

From a route setters view point, I do think that the climb should have been made more difficult from the end of the second roof instead of having such a hard last move. 6 climbers all fell off going to the last hold which really isn't the best splitter for a competition. It would be difficult for any climbers who didn't top the first route to make finals now seeing as only 6 would be going into the finals and 6 topped the first route leaving all those who fell off the last move in 7th place.

Anyway, moving on! The second qualifier was a techy fluro yellow route on the left hand side of the old competition wall. To be honest, this didn't scare me that much but I was wary of the roof towards the end of the route as this is always my most hated part of climbing that particular wall! Luckily I was further down the startlist now so got to view others on the route first. From the spectators view, it looked as though climbers where breezing mostly the first half and failing either going into a large volume before the roof or around the lip. I knew from watching that if I could make the final volume (second last hold) over the lip, then I would be roughly top 4 in the comp.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/47950_10151428488885828_329192910_n.jpg)Me in the upper regions of the Mens Q2

Dave Barrans made an impressive flash (with a cheeky knee bar), Ed Hamer did the same but timed out as he clipped the chain (he made it look about 5+) and Luke Tilley did very well and managed to grapple with the final volume but fell before the chains.

As I climbed the final route I heard everybody below shouting for me. It gave me confidence to keep pressing on but I managed to get a lot of rest all the way up the climb. When I reached the roof I made a silly mistake with my feet which cost me a lot of energy - I pulled through the roof and decided that I would use my height to my advantage by leaving my feet low and move my hands as high as I could which I knew would put me onto the final volume and in 4th place. As I grabbed the small crimp over the lip I could feel my body extended and in a state of unreliability so jumped to touch the volume!

At the end of the qualifiers I was joint 4th place and qualified for the finals alongside:

It was an exciting experience to make finals in 4th place but at the same time I felt bad for others who hadn't made it who I actually feel are better climbers than me. Guys like Jonathan Stocking and Alan Cassidy had just missed out on finals by literally holding one hold - I could easily have been in the same situation as them.

Isolation in the bouldering room was interesting from the perspective of both a coach and competitor. I know what isolation is like in the youth competitions but I had never experienced as a Senior. It's not too different, but there is a lot less mucking about and the competitors defintiely seem to have more of a routine than youth climbers. I was the only climber in the final not in a team i.e. GB Team, Aussie Team or USA Team. Everyone had their team kit on whereas I was sporting my blue Evolv Tee with Edelrid Troosers and a big bag of Stoats just in case I get peckish :P

We all ran out to view the route after around 30mins in Isolation. Mens final was a fantatsic looking Blue line going straight up one of the steepest sections of the New Competition Wall. It looked hard but do-able, I wasn't too worried about it but felt that to focus on the top would be a mistake. I was expecting to make it 3/4 height at most as it looked hard entering the roof. I read it a bit with Jonny White and discussed a few sections with Luke Tilley and Ed Hamer. Everyone seemed to be on similar tracks regarding the sequence, but when the climbing started, it would turn out to be very different.

Jonny White was first on followed by me. I was taken through with him to wait behind the wall in the second stage of Isolation. This stage of isolation is a tough mental experience as you can hear the roar of the crowd and the commentator behind the wall. You have a rough idea of when the climber starts thanks to the this but you also know judging on how long the climber has been out for just how good or badly they have done. I did notice that Jonny was out only a very short time so expected that the climb must have some really hard climbing low down.

When I walked out to climb, I stayed focussed on what I was doing and avoided looking at the spectators. The route from isolation to the climbing wall felt like a dark tunnel in which you can hear only faintly the crowd outside the tunnel, but at the end all you can see is the starting hand holds of your climb.

As I started the climb, the movements flowed from one to the next. It was incredible to feel so at ease on the final route. There was no actual moment on the whole route when I felt uncomfortable or like I was going to fall. There was one move when my feet cut at the 3/4 mark but I was still very much energised and hadn't felt the fatigue of pump as yet.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/149650_4268164956784_1689841271_n.jpg)What can I say - I like a crowd :P

Heading into the roof the intensity stepped up again, I found that I could reach through what might have been a harder move for a smaller climber and gained a slight rest in the centre of the roof. The coming moves looked hard but I was adrenalised and ready for anything! I powered on and made a few quick decisions that may have been slightly in haste... I fell off the 4th last move of the route before the chains, the closest I've come to topping a final route in a competition.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/384315_10151428489175828_1741289466_n.jpg)

When I was lowered I looked to the routesetters, Geek, Yann, Lisandro and Gaz, all of whom were nodding with thumbs up in aproval of what was obviously a very high point on the route. Jonny White met me on the walk out of the main area with the words,

"You DESTROYED me on that one!" Jonny had fallen off at about half-way, so at the moment I was in 1st place! Angus, William, Connor and David all ran up to to congratulate me on a good climb - it was great having them here to encourage me as I do for them at their competitions.

Chris Webb was up next, looking very static and controlled all the way up to the final roof section but seemed to have some difficulty with making a dynamic move where my feet had cut - he was off!

Luke Tilley fought hard through the same section and only just made that difficult move, then seemed to recover a bit before the roof. He got lost in the roof sequence and pumped out a few moves short of my high point.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/488132_10151428489400828_944199471_n-1.jpg)Luke making the tricky dynamic move - It was a nail biting moment this!

Ed Hamer was up next and in true Hamer style crushed his way up the climb with those meathooks he calls fingers. He didn't get any of the cheeky heel hooks I got but still he pressed on with relentless power endurance and equalled me but with a more static style. I think he held the hold as opposed to touching it like me but can't quite figure out the way the point system has worked out. I got 36+ and he got 38, but we fell off the same move from the same handholds... maybe I am missing something here?

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/543410_10150942648922395_794019104_n.jpg)Ed on the deciding move...

Regardless of what the score in the final is, Ed would still win regardless so I was going to be 2nd at most and 3rd more likely as Dave Barrans was up next.

Dave looked strongest so far with a very bouldersque style. He was impressive to watch and being last years British Champion I was expecting him to blow my performance away with a top - but he made the same mistake as Luke in the roof and fell on the same move!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/385093_10151428489685828_471705845_n.jpg)Dave Barrans displaying awesome feats of strength and power in the roof!

Suddenly I realised I had placed 2nd in Britain in the Senior Mens Category! This was something that I never thought would be possible for me at my current ability, especially seeing as the level of some of these beasts is so high. Getting through the qualifiers was miracle enough but to finish in 2nd was like a dream.

That night I couldn't sleep thinking if only I had held that damn hold and made a move I would be champ, but I was so happy to just make it as far as I did. Nat will agree with me on this, I can be pretty hard on myself at times. I still think I fluked it and that I will never be able to make it that far again... but hey, it's all good fun :D I would tell the kids I coach the same thing - I do need to take some of my own advice and focus not on how I might have fluked the comp this time...

But how I can fluke it again next time as well!

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: TCA Redpoint Competition (R1)
Post by: comPiler on October 21, 2012, 01:02:09 am
TCA Redpoint Competition (R1) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/tca/tca-redpoint-competition-r1.html)
20 October 2012, 11:15 pm

I love climbing at TCA Glasgow! It's always loads of fun when you have endless amounts of boulder problems to go at. For me, as I climb and set mainly at EICA, I go through problems fairly rapidly, so having the TCA less than an hour away is really beneficial if I want to step up my bouldering level.

This year, TCA are hosting 4 bouldering competitions across the winter months. I am going to use these as personal goals to focus my strength and power training over the winter. I did well in the last two events held earlier this year and late last year - placing 1st in the Onsight and 2nd in the Redpoint event.

Today I took part in the first of the four events. This one being a Redpoint event allows for the climber to have as many goes on the problems during the qualifying round as they want with the number of goes not affecting the overall score, only the height you achieve when starting from the bottom.

I was climbing well in the qualifying round despite noticing that my skin was peeling off in copious amounts. I think this was from doing a lot less climbing than I'm used to recently, so skin built up into callice on the pads and began to peel off in waxy flakes!

EURGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!! The qualifiers were set by Paul Twomey and Joe Day. The problems were really well set, with interesting funky sequences and a good selection of hard problems to split the field. I find that I always do well in the qualifiers thanks to the length of some of the harder blocs. If the hardest problems where shorter then no doubt some of the stronger boulderers would cruise them and I'd be scuppered, but I always come through strong when the hard problems are long enduro fests :D In fact, I don't think I have lost a qualifying round yet?

This round I won the qualifiers based on three blocs in my opinion:

  TCA Board Red Bloc This beast of a problem was around 13 moves long in total and where most where just getting tired and falling off, I could keep going. 13 moves doesn't sound like very long, but it was powerful, upside down and very beta intensive! My style basically...

I managed to make it all the way to the last move, sticking the second last hold only just but failing when my feet cut sending me hurtling into the crowd behind me :P Almost killed several kids!

 

Endurance Board Traverse There was a tricky bloc to the right of the circuit boards. On this one I managed to make quite a high flash attempt just skimming 48, which we all took as 46 due to ourdynamic slap and sudden dismount. I was lucky on returning about half-way through the comp to almost get a top just missing the last hold three times! At that point I decided to call it a day on this problem... Funnily enough I ended up returning later on and making the last move but not from the start!!!

 

Cobra Rood Red I knew I would get high points on this for the pure fact that it was around 20 moves long! I never actually got past my 2nd attempt high point which was on the crux moves about 15 moves into the problem. I made this high point but other competitors I saw where only making a few moves lower than mine.

 

These three problem secured me a strong 1st place lead in the quali's, but I did feel that perhaps my eagerness to place high in the quali's might set me up badly for the finals. The finals was a tussle between me, Eddie Barbour of Ireland and local boy Chris Everett.

To be totally honest, Eddie wiped the floor with us! He topped all 3 problems in awesome style and I'm actually pretty upset with the whole experience :P How can I lose to an Irishman! I'm competing at ILCC's (Irish Lead Climbing Championships) next month so I can't let him beat me again. After the comp we discussed what might have gone wrong with some of our performances and why Eddie did so well. I think Eddie is just going stronger than me at the moment to be fair, although a few things to take note of for future comps that I felt held me back was:

Basically, what I have discovered from this competition is that I need to sort out my Boulder route reading skillz before the next comp, I need to up my power enduro a bit for the finals, I need to make sure I am recurited to max strength and power and  finally... I need to drug Eddie before the next comp just enough so it looks like he's just weaker than me and not too much that he's having to bail... because that would just feel like a hollow victory now wouldn't it  :P

Also, big well done to the Edinburgh juniors Fraser Mcalwraith, Eilidh Vas Payne, Claudia Charlwood, Kirsten Gray, Keira Farmer and Jodie Brown for a great display of awesome climbing the whole day!

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Burning Volumes
Post by: comPiler on November 06, 2012, 06:00:43 am
Burning Volumes (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/bouldering-leagues/burning-volumes.html)
4 November 2012, 10:04 pm

A sad day for all of Ratho... the day Buzby burned the volumes in a moment of madness and what I believe is potentially the pyromaniac inside our faithful chief setter. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0002.jpg)Ewan Davidson cranking it at the comp

With the exception of a few tears from a few Ratho boulderers (and myself), the EICA Winter Bouldering Competition and Bonfire went exceedingly well. The day before the competition it was myself, Buz, Geek and Lisandro setting in the bouldering room. Although I never felt that my setting head was screwed on quite as tight as usual, I somehow managed to turn out a few good problems that caught the attention of those competing the following day.

I set a funky White V6 right up the 45 board manoevering through the huge triangular volume from right to left. In my mind I wanted to set something that wasn't immediately obvious what to do and which would catch those out who wring handed or moved out of sequence. Watching climbers on the day, it did the right job with those who took the wrong sequence being either spat off early or forced into much more energy sapping moves which affected them on the final move (mantling the lip and undecutting the pinch to reach the final jug).

I also set a Fluro Yellow problem graded at around V7. This stopped most in their tracks but was techy enough and not simply brute force that meant those that took the time to work it out and plan their strategy actually managed to get high rather than just getting stuck on one move. Angus Davidson came close to a flash but had to settle for a 2nd go whilst Alan Cassidy flashed it whilst crimping the broken corner of the volume that everyonelse was pinching (it just looked painful!).

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0025.jpg)Alan Cassidy (TCA Coach) making awkward work of my Yellow V7 Volume weirdness!

What was great to see on the day was a good selection of Youth Teams from around the Scotland South region showing up to compete. We had our local youth team competing obviously, all of them doing well. From Glasgow the TCA Squad came through as well as a bunch of the Sterling climbers.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0011.jpg)Connor getting high on the Pink V-Board Bloc It is impressive to see how far Youth Climbing in Scotland has come since I started climbing, not only in the standards but also in the volume of kids taking part in the sport and enjoying the competetive element to it. I hope this continues in years to come as it is really a fantastic thing to see.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0020.jpg)Rory Whyte competing for TCA at EICA Although competitions can be stressful, they can also be great fun and provide valuable lessons to all those taking part. I know that Competitions have taught me a lot over the years and I know from watching the kids growing up in the comp scene now that they are too.

After the competition, we all headed outside into the darkness of night where the Ratho garden was lit up in flames by our Bonfire and fireworks. As I said before, the fuel for the bonfire was the much loved and missed volumes :( Gilles better get building some more soon :P Although it was cold, the bonfire and fireworks made up for it not to mention the tasty (though slightly raw) hamburgers cooked by Lisandro and Christian.

Thanks Guys for the food poisoning - only joking!

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: MCofS: Youth Open Bouldering Prep Day
Post by: comPiler on November 11, 2012, 12:00:24 am
MCofS: Youth Open Bouldering Prep Day (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/youth-events/mcofs-youth-open-bouldering-prep-day.html)
10 November 2012, 10:49 pm

The last two days have been so much fun and yet so tiring! Who would have thought that 14 hours route setting followed by 6 hours sleep and a full days coaching would be tiring :P

Saturday was the MCofS Prep Event for the Youth Bouldering Open being held in Liverpool in December. I am going down myself acting as Team Coach and will be involved in the selection of the new GB Team on the Saturday for the Lead event and am going to offer my support to those going for the Bouldering as well.

The MCofS Prep Events that I organise like this are invaluable sources of competetive exerience for all competitors as well as being a fun day climbing with friends and no doubt a hard days training! For this event, I had planned a Qualifier and final style format following the Official IFSC Rules so that the kids would benefit from learning the most up to date tactics for when they compete on the day.

The day before the event, Iain Sneddon (Route Setter and Coach at EICA) and myself made the journey to Glasgow TCA to set all the problems for the Saturday. Iain and myself have been looking forward to this day for sometime as we've been eager to set at TCA since the place first opened late last year. We even had to go through TCA's "Complex and Stifingly Hard" Route Setter Examination/Induction before being allowed to set.

Our plan for the setting day was to set all the Qualifiers as taped problems using holds already on the wall and set our own purpose built problems on the TCA Competition Wall. We set the finals problems first owing to the fact that we knew thatit would take all our energy and undivided attention to set the best quality finals using as much volume madness as possible. Check out below pictures of our finals problems.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0039.jpg)

 The Red Bloc above was a problem I designed to challenge the younger kids confidence in making dynamic or explosive moves. The first move is literally a dyno from two edges to two jugs on the volume. Because it is low to the ground it's a fairly safe dyno but in the competetion environment kids don't tend to want to risk jumping for holds unless they have to (on this you have to unless your long!). The last move is also a risky move requiring a short pop for the final jug.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0046.jpg)

This Yellow V7 above was a fantastic problem set by Iain. It's always a bit of a chance when you set something harder than you canusually climb. Iain is a V6 climber, so setting a V7 is going to be more of a challenge for him, especially for a competition. These events are not only good prep for the kids, but also for us as route setters because it gives us an opportunity to hone our skills and test our ideas on kids outside of the real competition. The yellow did it's job well acting as a final separator for the large part of the older boys group. It's almost basic look is actually a subtle trick, the sequence is a lot more complex and hidden than meets the eye.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0047.jpg)

This Orange above was also set by Iain. We decided to use this problem as an example of a selected starting handholds position to show the kids what this is all about. Notice the Grip tape along the side of the blue volume... a very nice touch that provides an added bit of support when moving around it for both hands and feet!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0048.jpg)

I set this Green in about 5 minutes flat. Who says art can't be rushed. It might not be one of my masterpieces but the sequence puzzled most of the kids, especially the final pocket which unbeknown to all but the savvy has a nice little undercut inside :P

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0049.jpg)

This blue I was particularly proud of. It had a good few tops in the finals by kids across the age brackets, however, what was the main theme behind success on this bloc was "body position". The strongest guys struggled like mad on this whist the younger more supple and wiry kiddie's cruised it like a warm up... Can you spot the two no handers?

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0050.jpg)

Kalymnos comes to TCA! The first Bloc I set. Although it isn't that hard for adults, kids with tiny hands struggle like mad on this. It's all about laybacking up the tufa pipes and using the right bobbles and bumps. You can't pull your way up this one!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0051.jpg)

This one caught out everybody, not one flash in the whole competition! It's only V6 and actually quite an easy one at that - probably not harder than F6C realistically but could get F6C+ if push comes to shove. The volume technique is a tough cookie to break but once your in, you never look back! The older boys had to do this without the bonus screw on hold on the upper volume which probably bumped it to V6.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0052.jpg)

This white bloc was probably the most basic out of all the problems set. It's good to have a variety in styles and although I am not a fan of basic left right left right climbing, sometimes it's good to see who is simply the strongest. Interestingly enough, Rebecca Kinghorn displayed amazing feats of strength on this, but when it came to the final moves she showed her ability to think quick by catching the 4th last hold wrong handed with her left and pressing to reach the one out left with her right. This set her up perfectly for a clean Flash!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0053.jpg)

The hardest bloc in the comp! I did this after setting it in my Evolv Bolts (http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/approach-shoes/bolt-orange/). This is not really a problem about footwork, it's all about compression, burl and timing. The crux which nobody made in the comp is a throw for the Red triangle volume with the right, the only catch being if you don't immediately come in with your left to catch the hold underneath you spin uncontrollably backwards doing a 180 (or 360 depening on the force of the jump and the length of time you latch the hold for). Only Angus and Scott managed to make it to this point but neither of them spotted the left hand release and catch... A tricky technque to spot indeed!

 

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Winter Bouldering 2013 - Season Begins
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2012, 12:00:40 am
Winter Bouldering 2013 - Season Begins (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/dumbarton-rock/winter-bouldering-2013-season-begins.html)
5 December 2012, 10:15 pm

OK, so maybe the season begun a while back, but I've not posted on any of my bouldering this winter at all so I thought I would begin now :D To be honest, I don't tend to like posting about my bouldering as it is so utterly dissapointing compared with my route climbing. However, this year I have decided to take a big step forward in my bouldering in an effort not only to better my route climbing for 2013, but also to improve myself as a Boulderer.

There is no doubt about it, I am a route climber at heart. But since around 2 years ago when I started incorporating a lot more bouldering into my training for routes, I have been increasingly learning to enjoy bouldering at a far greater level than ever before. Last winter was the first time I spent more than a session on a problem outdoors. This was on my first V10 (F7C+) "Northern Territory" at Kyloe Out which was almost done in a session, but in the end took an extra session to seal the deal. The process off redpointing a hard outdoor boulder problem was new to me and I can say that I did thoroughly enjoy the experience (not as much as routes still though).

That window of outdoor bouldering last winter gained me my first V10 as well as a number of V9's (F7C) and V8's (F7B+) all within a session. Not only did my outdoor bouldering improve, but my indoor bouldering also got a lot better. I won a round of the TCA Glasgow Winter League and found new enjoyment in my bouldering sessions at the wall. This then gave me the strength, power and confidence to climb my first 8c in the spring of 2012. All this from a winters bouldering!

Unfortunately after that Winter I let it slide with my focussed bouldering attention and instead of keeping up the momentum of boulder training, I went back to training again on other aspects of my performance that I feel perhaps are less necessary but which I had neglected over the Winter. This was a big mistake and I paid massively for it! Now I am back in the bouldering zone and hoping to take this to a new personal level from 2012 into 2013 and hopefully ever upwards. It's no doubt in my mind now that if I want to achieve my goals in sport climbing I also have to be bouldering at a high level, but to manage this I also needed to learn to enjoy bouldering for what it is, as it's own discipline and not simply as a tool to train for routes.

So far this winter I have taken my first baby steps into bettering my bouldering with a few personal bests:

 

 

So this is the main tick list above F7B+. It stems from around 3 or 4 sessions at Dumbarton Rock so far. The big ticks were "Sabotage" and "In Bloom" both of which felt pretty hard for me initially, though when I did them it seemed that there almost shouldn't have been any issue! A nice thing to feel when you supposedly complete your hardest boulders ever as it definitely encourages the thought that climbing something harder is possible.

My new bouldering goals for 2012/2013 then is to consolidate climbing at the F8A mark which I do believe is something I will achieve. I would certainly like to fulfil climbing F8A in a session, again something which I am confident is possible given the correct choice of problem and approaching with the right tactics. "Sabotage" felt like it would go in a session as did "In Bloom" and "Nice and Sleazier" was done in about an hour of working sections with around a dozen attempts in 30 minutes to get it sent :P I am motivated to visit as many different areas as possible in order to develop my bouldering skills in a wide range of rock types and styles, not only in the local areas. So I will be getting down to the County quite a bit with hopefully more visits to Dumby to see some of the other F8A's there sent. "King Kong" (F8A), "Sabotaged" (F8A) and "Spam Dagger" (F8A) on the list :D

And of course, with 2013 on the horizons, if I can up the bouldering level, where will it take my sport climbing? A Costa Blanca trip in Easter might not be a bad thing :)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Winter Bouldering 2013 - Round 2
Post by: comPiler on December 15, 2012, 12:00:25 pm
Winter Bouldering 2013 - Round 2 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/dumbarton-rock/winter-bouldering-2013-round-2.html)
14 December 2012, 2:46 pm

Hey Guys

Well since last weeks blog post a number of things have happened.

  Bouldering On the bouldering front things have been going from really good to totally awesome! Last week I climbed my first F8A "Sabotage" at Dumbarton Rock. Although this is my first F8A, it's probably only my first from a lack of trying. "Sabotage" is the first F8A I have actually tried and coupled with the fact that the number of outdoor bouldering sessions I have been on in my life before this winter you could probably count on both my hands, there is no wonder I haven't done a lot of hard bouldering outdoors.

Every year I look for different parts of my climbing performance that are weaker than the ohers, areas that I can improve on to therefore make the all-round climber in me as strong as possible. This weakness in bouldering has been something that has plagued me for a long time... I corrected this through training indoors which I have seen massive gains from, however, from no experience of outdoor bouldering I feel that my confidence in attempting harder moves on rock (even on sport) was affected. For example, if someone told me that the crux of the 8c was a F7C or V9, then I would suddenly be really scared as I know that F7C for me is hard... Now that I have climbed a number of F8A's in relatively quick succession, I feel a new confidence has awoken and that potentially I could step things up in my sport massively having found this.

So anyway, this last week has been great for my bouldering. I headed out with Adam Lincoln and Ian Patterson for a day at Dumby early on in the week. It was pretty cold at Dumby that day but after warming up, things started to feel a lot better. I began the session with a very quick ascent of a popular link up F8A called "Spam Dagger". The previous session I had climbed the other popular link up "Nice and Sleazy" (F7C+) so it made sense to try and go for the harder version. Nice and Sleazy has a different starting and end but shares the middle section at F7B+. Basically "Nice and Sleazy" is like doing a F7B+ into a F7B+ more or less whereas "Spam Dagger" starts lower in the cave from a different point and includes the meat of a 2 move F7C and instead of going direct up the finish of the next F7B+ as "Nice and Sleazy" does, instead you only climb the crux and finish out left on some slightly more tricky ground.

When I did "Spam Dagger", I was really surpirsed at how easy it felt but having climbed "Nice and Sleazy" already it made sense because I had already climbed some of the moves before. So for fun, I thought I might as well climb the rest of the problems I hand't done there... this included "Spam" (F7C), "Glasgow Kiss" (F7C+) and "Thoroughbread" (F7C+). Its funny, because every one of them felt the same grade... in fact, I found "Spam" harder than "Spam Dagger" and that is supposed to be two grades harder! I honestly do find the F7A finish to "Spam" harder than the F7B+ finish to "Spam Dagger" :P

After ticking this whole section of the boulder, Adam asked if I wanted a spot on the problem I had come that day to try, "Sabotaged" (F8A). I had climbed the original to this problem the week earlier as you know, but "Sabotaged" changes the problem slightly with a much harder finishing move and a wierder more awkward way of getting there. After brushing all the holds and repeating the last hard move a few times, I was ready to go for it from the start :) I began as for "Sabotage" but purposefully climbed quicker than I was the previous week to try and save some energy for the last move... before I knew it I found myself sticking solidly to the sloper around the corner and move really statically to the crimp on the edge from which I make the last hard move. When I got matched on the crimps, I found I could rest, chill out a bit, even shake! I placed a high heel hook and locked off, Adam was giving me a good spot and providing much needed encouragement as I locked deep for this last move... suddenly I had the edge, I crimped up on it and had it strong! The mantle here is tricky but I haven't yet fallen off it - I flipped my locked hand to a palm and pushed hard to gain the slab... I was soon enough standing on the slab and topped out to victory over "Sabotaged"!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0013.jpg)

It was an great feeling to have done this problem right there and then as I had been watching strong climbers from Edinburgh, Mike Mullins and Eddie Barbour trying it the week before when I was trying "Sabotage". They were very close but had fallen from that last move quite a lot, somehow I just managed to do it first go when I reached the good crimps... I think it was a bit of luck and possibly me going through a bit of a confidence boost having just climbed several 7C+'s and another 8A earlier in the session. A quote from "Rat Race" springs to mind:

"Good things happen one at a time, Great things happen all at once" I am sure it wasn't just from that movie but it felt like a very good quote to remind myself off :P

One more trip to Dumby since then and I ticked another good 7C called "Silverback" and in the process was very close to "King Kong" in a session, but only if the last part had been in better conditions. I also climbed the last variation to "Sabotage" called "La Saboteur" (F8A). This was only a little bit harder than the original and in my opinion probably a little bit easier than "Sabotaged" - but it probably suits me more being longer, probably like climbing a very short f8b+.

Liverpool Selection Events So I also travelled down to Liverpool for a weekend representing the Scottish contingent of the GB Team and acting as part of the selection team who would be working out the new Youth Lead and Bouldering Teams.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0028.jpg)

I also had a number of kids whom I coach who had gone down for the event so I was there to support them throughout.

There was of course some disapointment with personal performances on the day, but really everyone I saw climbed really well and irrespective of whether they achieved what they had set out to, I think all the kids should be proud of their climbing and use the experience of the weekend as a test from which they can learn from.

It is a shame that the new Youth Lead Team is so much smaller than it was, as I believe there is so much benefit in sending kids to international competitions for experience. Now, it will be a lot harder for kids to make the team due to the new much higher criteria for selection, something which I don't agree on but which will certainly provide more resources for elite team members. The only issue I see is that because there is less opportunity for kids to make the team now, experience that could be gained early on is now something that won't be available unless they meet the criteria which in some cases means not even 3rd, 2nd or even 1st place podium places is enough...

 

A Visit to the Doctor So, a visit to the doctor the other day revealed something which I have been wondering about for a while - I have Carpol Tunnel Syndrome in my left arm. For a couple of years I have been affected occassionally by a tingling sensation in my arms, often caused whilst doing any task in which my arms are set for a long time. Some examples include driving, reading, sleeping or lifting things up.

Although it has been around for a while, it has only got particularly bad in the last 6 months and more recently it has become very painful on the night. I wake up with no feeling in my left arm at all with the exception of a very cold stabbing sensation. To relieve this I need to let my arm drop towards the ground and it feels as if blood returns to my arm and fingertips... the only issue with this is that if I leave it like this for too long I end up getting another terrible pain, like searing heat burning the inside of my arm and hand. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/img-carpal-tunnel-syndrome.png)

Initially I thought it was blood circulation issues, but the doctor has assured me that it isn't this and instead is related to a compressed nerve in either my wrist or elbow. He suggested Carpol Tunnel Syndrome and I am to see a hand specialist very soon.

Reading up about Carpol Tunnel Syndrome, you can get either a steroid injection or surgery to relieve the symptoms. The fomer is prefered as I have heared that surgery can take anywhere from a year or longer to recover... I don't think I could take that long off climbing :P

 

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: TCA Onsight Competition - Dec 2013
Post by: comPiler on December 19, 2012, 12:00:35 am
TCA Onsight Competition - Dec 2013 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/tca/tca-onsight-competition-dec-2013.html)
16 December 2012, 11:12 pm

Saturday



I had a pretty full on day at the TCA in Glasgow where I competed in the second round of their Winter Bouldering Series.

In the morning I headed over to pick up friends of mine who were also competing, Neill Busby, Eddie Barbour and Lisandro Defays. Eddie is probably for lack of a better term (and possibly the most accurate one that comes to mind right now) my rival :P In a friendly way, but he is a good guy for me to try and beat as we both tend to climb at a fairly similar level, in quite a similar style and Eddie always tries really really hard, so you know it’s going to be a good challenge!

When we arrived at TCA, I went for a quick mosey around the problems to check what the setters had prepared for us. The competition format allows for everybody to try the same problems but with each successively higher hold gaining you more points than the previous. It’s like a route competition more or less but on boulders :P(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/621980_444577748924273_67143072_o.jpg)Chris Everett on the campus move of one of the hardest qualifier problems - Photo by Jonathan Bean

I really like the format, especially on the Onsight days when you are only allowed one attempt for each problem. This basically means that you can’t screw up on your first attempt, as it’s the only one you are going to get. The best thing about this format - because you only try 20 x problems, 15 of which for the top 3 competitors shouldn’t be too hard, everybody is fresh for the finals allowing for a proper fun final battle to see who comes out on top.

The problems looked excellent and I couldn’t wait to get stuck in – so much so that I totally ignored the first 13 and just did 14, 15 and 16 straight away! I then went about some of the easier problems, getting a total shocker at No.8 which was totally sandbag for one of the first 10!

Once I felt up to it, I headed over to the top 3 problems to finally give them a good attempt. It was really funny though, all the strong guys were just looking at the problems and not trying them… Most of them were waiting on somebody to step forward and try first. Some of them were being attempted but nobody was getting really high, so for the guys who were aiming for finals it wasn’t giving a lot away as to the sequence. Eventually, I stepped up to try the middle of the top 3, in doing so, the boys behind me started to shout in jest - an possibly also to put me off a little :P

“Mr Phillips is getting on it now! EVERYBODY! ROBBIE IS GETTING ON THE HARD ONE!”

This definitely set the pressure as I was one of the first to try this and now I had a good crowd behind me watching intently to see what I did. It was a really cool problem actually and I didn’t do too badly on it.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/202176_444578072257574_2038017224_o.jpg)Edwardo Barbour on that damn heel hook problem! - Photo by Jonathan Bean The first 5 moves where very easy after which you had a tricky sequence coming out onto the volume and then a slap around it to reach a really positive sloper. The next section caught me a bit by surprise as I didn’t expect the lock off to be as hard as it was, but luckily my fingerboard training has been paying off and I managed the lock all the way to the crimp. It was here I got a bit stumped and made quite an out of control catch to the next pinch and came off. Not a bad attempt really, and well enough that nobody managed to get any higher during the rest of the day.

At the end of the qualifiers I had racked up a good score, dropping only 2 out of 20 problems and still scoring very high on them. This was more than enough to make the finals alongside Eddie Barbour and Mikey Bleausard.

After watching the juniors compete and seeing some impressively strong performances by the next generation, it was time for Seniors to step up to compete in the finals. We all walked out to view our problems, a fun looking black set. The left hand one was techy on small crimps and volumes, the middle was a horror fest on snake-like lapis crimps and the final on the right was a totally bewildering sloper test-piece on volumes.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/289362_444579485590766_2056660993_o.jpg)Me on the middle snake crimper problem in the finals! - Photo by Jonathan Bean

I had unfortunately suffered a very bad split on my left middle finger directly on the pad! This was really painful throughout the whole competition and by the time finals came along, it was starting to bleed slightly.

My first problem was the snake holds, this was really sharp and crimpy and it took all my effort not to let go in pain as I pulled. Luckily I topped it quickly, this gave me time to rest. If my finger had not been in so much pain, I am positive I would have flashed this quite easily, the power screams I made as I climbed were not due to the difficulty of the moves, more just trying not to think about my sore finger…

The second problem was the horrendous sloper on the right side. I got a little shut down on this, more to the point though, I had to quit early on it too. As I was climbing, I heard a loud crack come from my right knee as I rocked over on my heel. Following the crack was a sudden rush of pain and instead of pulling any further, I just dropped off. I lay on the ground in agony for what felt like ages… Everyone was asking how I was, I knew that I could walk but the pain was so bad that I didn’t want to. Eventually I just got up and walked out of sight so I could stretch and test what my knee would take.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/477736_444579568924091_1375101798_o.jpg)Me again on that snaky crimps problem - Photo by Jonathan BeanBasically, any heel hook felt like my knee was going to explode… the next problem required a really hard pull on my right heel which of course was not ideal for my current situation. In the end, I had a decision to make, either give up and place 3rd in the finals, or take a risk and see if my knee holds up on the climbing. What I did was stupid and not in any way reflective of what I would advise as a coach, but as a competitor, I wanted to win. I decided that one attempt would be all that it takes to top this and if my knee was too sore then I could just drop off…

I pulled on the first two holds, a couple of tiny slopey screw on crimps. The fact that my finger was now also gushing blood from the pad wasn’t helping and  the crimps felt like daggers in my finger! The second I pushed on my right foot I felt the pain rise up through my leg… I withstood it though… The next move required a high heel hook and a lock to reach a big sloper. I crimped down on the slopey crimp and felt the blood run out and slide along my finger, the heel was causing my knee to burn and I felt sick from the pain but I just locked harder on my arms and tried to pull as little on the heel as possible. Thankfully, I got a seat on the volume and this took the weight of my heel – thank god!

The next moves were all very easy and I could more or less leave my right leg hanging completely limp as my left leg did all the work. I crimped down on some more slopey crimps and yet more blood ran down my finger… It was pretty grim but I topped it regardless.

After I had topped, I jumped off and landed in a heap on the ground… down climbing was too much like hard work. I crawled away to sit down and didn’t even look at how Eddie or Mikey where getting on with the other problems, I just needed to rest and focus on stopping my leg from pulsating. I came back 10 minutes later to find out that somehow I had won? I was confused with this (and still am to a certain extent) as I was positive that Mikey had climbed better than me. Both of us topped 2 problems but because I had made it higher on the first attempt on problem 3, I won… Eddie was 3rd and Mikey was 2nd. Dave Macleod himself gave me my prize and I got to shake his hand… covered in blood :P

Anyway, massive big up to the setters of the fab problems throughout the competition. The qualifiers were great and the finals superb, can’t wait until the next competition in January. I hope I am fully recovered for the final competition – a 1st and 2nd place in this years winter series is not too bad for a route climber and it’s looking good for a series win if I can pull out another top 3 position. Just need to make sure Eddie doesn’t win another :P

Sunday



So, I awoke in Aberdeen around an hour after I went to sleep unable to move my leg without a shot of pain from my knee to my big toe. It seems the adrenaline of the competition and travel has worn out and the knee crack which at the time was very sore but afterwards had dulled down to a minor ache was now a deep throb and sore with only the slightest of movement.

Regretfully but unavoidably I had to cancel my coaching plans in Aberdeen and get the next train home so I could get to Hospital for a doctors opinion. Turns out, the doctor thinks it might be a damaged meniscus but there is no sign of any damage on the bone after an X-Ray. Theresa Tait at EICA has a few ideas and she gave me a good little massage to ease some of the tightness which already has given me a lot more freedom of movement without pain.

I have a physio tomorrow at 3, so we will see what he/she thinks and hopefully an ultrasound will show up anything more sinister deeper within the knee if it's there... Hope not though...

 

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Coping with Injury
Post by: comPiler on December 25, 2012, 12:00:56 am
Coping with Injury (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/injuries/coping-with-injury-1.html)
24 December 2012, 9:43 pm

Injury is something I have both little and lots of experience with. Throughout my career as a climber and coach, I have been surrounded by injuries, but I have yet to experience the real horror that is being injured to the point of complete shut down.

Injuries in the Blogosphere Nat wrote an amazing blog (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/injuries/dealing-with-injury-blood-sweat-and-tears.html) on her experiences with injury that touched both myself and many others around the world. It told of her life of training and competing on the Youth European and World circuit whilst dealing with repetitive injuries in her fingers and abdominals.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/steallsep12_4.jpg)Much more recently, Mr Macleod (http://www.davemacleod.com) himself has been writing some interesting blogs on his currently unfortunate predicament – one which was suffered not due to the commonly caused over-training, but by accident, a mistake really, by falling off the end of his rope lowering from a warm up route.

My friend and boss at EICA, Nic Crawshaw relates to Dave’s predicament with a funny story in which he was lowered off the end of the rope whilst climbing at Cascade sector in Ceuse. Anyone who has climbed there knows what it’s like being lowered over the edge of the main sector – it’s a little hard to judge with the ground being a further 5-10m lower than the point where you climb and belay from. The funny side of the story being the bit where he described crawling back to the campsite to get an ambulance as he couldn’t afford Mountain Rescue having taken out no Insurance! This always makes me think twice…

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/AILSA_GRAHAM.jpg)And finally, what has made me think more clearly about injuries is the very sad and thought provoking blogs of Ailsa Graham (http://ailsagraham.blogspot.co.uk), an English lass who started her first blogs and quickly made a very powerful message amongst young climbers out there which was – A tweek might take 6 weeks to recover, 6 weeks might feel like forever, but it doesn’t feel nearly as long as a fully blown rupture when you’ve pushed despite the pain. Listen to your body!



My Life of Injury

I have yet to suffer something as terrible as what those above are experiencing now. When I first started climbing at 15 I would climb everyday god gave me. I remember being told to stop and rest but like a stupid little kid I just kept pulling until one day I felt a pain in my back… This knocked 3 weeks off climbing, 3 weeks that still I remember feeling like the longest time on earth, but I recovered and have not felt a pain quite like it since…

During my higher exams I remember feeling a slight twinge in my finger – it hurt whilst writing more than climbing, but after a couple of weeks, it was fine…

Last year during a period of very intense finger strength training I noticed a pain once again in my fingers. I was lucky enough to be hitting rock within a couple of weeks of feeling the pain knowing full well that the release of high intensity training would do it good, a couple of weeks of peak training and 4 weeks on rock – I haven’t felt a pain since…

Now, as any of you who follow my blog will know, I have a gammy knee… This isn’t the worst possible injury I could have but it does affect me and my training. First of all, it is painful just to walk on… Secondly, I can’t climb using my right leg without experiencing pain and I certainly don’t want to make it worse so I am avoiding using it in any way that is going to cause aggravation to the damaged ligament.

Frankly, I am incredibly lucky to have had such an amazing run in my climbing career so far without so much injury. I do think that I am incredibly careful with the way I train and have always prepared my body for the excess training and stress I put it under.



Emotional Injury Reading Ailsa’s blog, she is incredibly brave to write about her injuries in such an emotive way. To be honest, when I first read her blog I was both saddened by it and slightly put off, simply because of the intense emotional element to the writing. Obviously she is in a great deal of pain both physically and emotionally.

Since reading her blog however, I have been thinking more seriously about the implications of serious injury and how it would affect someone whose life revolves around a sport. Personally, I don’t know how I would react if I had such injuries that stopped me from climbing fullstop… I hope that it would be easier coupled with the fact that I have a strong connection with climbing more than just the physical aspect i.e. my entire social life is based in climbing as is my work.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/First_Contact.jpg)

Me socialising at the crag with fellow... errrrr... climbers?

With Ailsa, she is still very much involved in climbing to a great deal which I think is fantastic and also shows her passion for the sport – it also identifies strongly that climbing is a lifestyle and not simply a hobby for most of it’s partakers.



A Message to Climbers In the ending paragraphs of Ailsa’s blog she quotes Edward Whymper, the first ascenionist of the Matterhorn and also a celebrated author and illustrator:

“Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end.” Scrambles Amongst the Alps As someone who strives for excellence and improvement daily, this quote hit me hard. Remembering the fact that knowledge of what you are doing and why you are doing it forms the base of effective training, forgetting this is the first step to failing at what we are striving for and risks far more than not achieving. We climb because we love it, that’s how we started and it never leaves us. Never forget that whilst you may lose sight of it for a moment, climbing is something that enriches your life not through achieving, but simply through doing. When the endeavour for success makes you forget why you started and forces you in haste to take risks and badly placed steps, try and remember the beginning… think what may be the end…

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: MCofS Training and Evolv Boot Demo
Post by: comPiler on January 12, 2013, 06:00:41 am
MCofS Training and Evolv Boot Demo (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/youth-events/mcofs-training-and-evolv-boot-demo.html)
10 January 2013, 2:14 pm

Things have been pretty fast paced since New Year, although not a bad thing (being busy is never a bad thing), it's all quite tiring and when it catches up with you the feeling of exhaustion is hard to shake off. I am currently sitting in my living room with aching triceps, biceps and finger tips, every click of the keyboard seems to send a shiver up my arm and my eyes are literally aching to close with every minute that goes by.

 

Climb Newcastle Boot Demo

Last night I was in Newcastle working an Evolv Boot Demo at the Bouldering wall, "Climb Newcastle". It was a really good experience hitting a new scene during the boot demos as I have only ever done them at Ratho. It was refreshing to see such a vibrant climbing scene bringing together both the young and old climbers and allowing them to socialise and share experiences climbing together.

It was a pleasure to meet some of the pioneers of Northumbrian Sandstone Climbing at the wall on the day as well, all of whom where incredibly friendly. As I have grown up climbing, I have seen their faces in the guide books and heard of their expoloits climbing on the sandstone when it was a very different era for climbing e.g. no mats! To meet them in person finally was really cool and frankly inspiring to say the least, I hope I am enjoying climbing as much as they are now when I am their age. John Earl told me that between the lot of them there was 8 metal hips! Not ideal when going through customs at the airport, but that is what happens when you fall off the wall onto hard ground for years and years!

I also got to do a bit of climbing at the wall as well which in my opionion was some of the best quality problems I've done at a climbing wall in a while. It was mainly the consistency of top quality problems that I liked about the venue. There was a few jug ladders dotted about for beginners, but generally, everything, even the easier stuff had thought put into it and required some skill and not just brute strength. What was also very good was the fact that they set a new circuit every week, something I wish we could do at Ratho. Every week a new circuit is set with problems ranging up to 7A in nearly every circuit, meaning that there is probably something new and hard to try for everybody nearly every week!

After the demo, I drove back home along the winding A68 which in the day is a stunning drive and at night I saw about 3 cars between coming off the A696 near Newcastle and hitting the Edinburgh bypass!

 

MCofS Boulder Training (Elite+ Academy Event)

Last weekend I was working at TCA (The Climbing Academy) in Glasgow for the MCofS both organising, setting for and running 2013's first Elite+ Academy Event. This one was geared at testing members of the Scottish Team and British Team's abilities on the bouldering wall with problems set specifically to certain grades across a range of different styles so that kids could better identify their weaknesses.

I also split the kids up into Teams, the aim of which was to encourage the kids to throw aside any singular competitive drive and instead help their friends and team mates to ultimately win the Team Event.

After the first round, we broke up for lunch and I ran a short lecture on Technique, Mental Drive and Determination and what it takes to become a better more all round climber.

We started climbing again, this time though we where on the main competition wall. I had spent the best part of Friday (day before) setting this wall with an array of confusing, challenging and very difficult problems for the kids to throw themselves at. They picked up on important skills learned from the first round but where at another level entirely than what they had tried previously.

What is quickly becoming a trademark problem of mine on the TCA competition wall is setting with the Tufa's! The last two times it has been the first holds I have set with and I don't really want to break the tradition. Last time however, the Tufa's where only set to around V4, wheras this time I had set two problems, both a V4 and a V7!

If you have been at TCA this last week no doubt you will have got to try the problems, so if you like them then please comment below and tell me what you thought :) This is what i set:

All of the problems got climbed with only William Bosi climbing everything - though the black V8 did take him a bit of effort :P

Notes for next time though, set some more V8's and maybe a V9 - Kids are too strong!

Now to see some of the kids in action on the day, here is a little video I made of day:

 

 

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: A big year ahead...
Post by: comPiler on January 23, 2013, 06:00:17 pm
A big year ahead... (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/general/a-big-year-ahead.html)
23 January 2013, 2:02 am

2013 is only less than a month in and already it is proving to be much busier than I expected. Not a bad thing really, I am having to come to terms with the fact that I eventually had to start working full-time :P The great thing is that I am doing a job that I absolutely love, something which I was terrified would never happen.

When I first left school I had no idea what I was going to do. A Year of doing not much but climbing taught me my life would have to be involved in the sport somehow. Two years since then and my career path is laid out in front of me clearer than water...

The big issue now is making sure I still have enough time to do what I love, which of course is going climbing myself! I am spending most of my time training other climbers that I am struggling to find time to think about my own climbing goals. And believe me, they are most definitely still there and as vibrantly built in my mind as ever, I just need to make sure they don't stay there and actually become realities instead of just figments.

I am planning my year very carefully... It's more or less built around competitions, training camps and coaching trips, all of which I am attending so of course cannot be organising any climbing trips when they are happening.

My first climbing trip in 2013 is probably going to be Costa Blanca in March. I am heading there around the 17th of March (the day after the last round of Scotlands series of the YCS). The main aim of the trip is to run a coaching trip for kids of all ages and abilities, but of course I am going to sneak off a bit earlier to make sure I get some climbing of my own in :P

Some friends of mine, Stuart Stronnach and Amanda Lyons know the area really well so I picked their brains a bit as to where the best routes for my grade are. Further investigation on 8a.nu showed there are around 6 x routes in the 8b+ to 8c mark that look good and are climbed often. I'd like to take a bash at doing some of those if possible with an aim to getting at least one of the 8c's done. If I have a couple of weeks before the coaching, potentially doing them all would be possible if I'm going well, but we will have to see :)

The next trip would be to Imst, Austria in May. Again I am travelling out with a bunch of kids who are competing in a competition at Kletterhalle Imst called the Youth Color Climbing Festival. The event itself is only the start of our trip though as we will all be staying an extra 5 days to train with the Austrian Team at Kletterhalle Imst and go out climbing with them in the local area. Hopefully I will also get to do some climbing during this week :P I might even stay an extra week myself and get out climbing in the local crags. I'd love to hit Zillertal and try and do "Total Brutal" (8b+).

I am still contemplating my Summer trip. The easy option would be to hit Ceuse and go for glory on all the remaining hard routes I still have left there, basically everything that is any good is 8c or harder now :P There is also potential in going to another crag not too far away, quite close to Serre Chevalier that a friend David Falt has been going on and on about. I would like to check this place out!

After the Summer we are into Autumn and come October and the BLCC's I will be heading to Kalymnos! We are going to do another big trip there with the kids and once again I hope to get some personal climbing in at the same time. There is one climb I really want to do here, a mega roof climb called "Inshallah" (8c+)! I remember the day it was climbed by Nico Favresse - I remember talking to him as he said he was off to try his project, I didn't even know who he was at the time, just some guy at the crag :P

And finally, I can't forget about the UK. Well, I am of course going to try and get back down to Yorkshire at some point, but as soon as conditions are ripe, I am going to be heading north west to the steely crag of Steall Hut! I have started contemplating what is required of me to climb at the 9th grade and a simple truth that I don't have a lot of time to be galavanting across the globe trying the biggest and hardest routes for me has dawned. So, after a conversation with Dave Macleod,  I decided to check out the old project of Cubby's that Dave climbed back in 2007 - that is of course "Ring of Steall" (8c+). The cool thing about this is that it has an extension at 9a now thanks to Dave, so if I am wanting to climb at this grade, it would be awesome to do it in Scotland. At least I could give the 8c+ a right good go at this year, then it would leave the 9a part open for the future...

That would shape 2013 up nicely I think...

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Fear: How much does it hold you back?
Post by: comPiler on February 07, 2013, 06:00:27 pm
Fear: How much does it hold you back? (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/mental/fear-how-much-does-it-hold-you-back.html)
7 February 2013, 2:13 pm

A topic with thousands of different avenues, paths and directions. What does fear actually mean in climbing? Does it help or hinder us? What are the different types of fear?

As a climbing coach I am covering the dillema of fear with climbers of all ages and abilities basically every day of the week. There is too much out there to put into one small blog, but at least I can make a start at it.

Falling

The biggest barrier I have found facing 95% of the climbers I coach is the fear of falling. For everyone the challenge to overcome is slightly different, as are the symptoms it causes and the level to which it affects them. In every single example however, fear is holdin them back from achieving their potential...

A fear of falling is something that isn't unnatural to us. In fact, it's very much a natural reaction of our minds to escape the inevitable outcome of death (or pain) when falling from a great height. The difference however, is that if we are attached to a rope, the risks are greatly reduced irrespective of whether the route is a sport climb or traditional. For the purposes of this blog, I am going to be focussing purely on sport or indoor climbing, because that is the area that most of my clients have issues with.

Why then do we struggle to overcome our fears when the risks are lowered to such a degree that really, there is little or no risks involved? This is a question I have been asking myself for years and still have yet to come up with a true solution - the best work I have done towards helping climbers overcome their fears is simply through a lot of personal involvement in their climbing, trying to make them more confident climbers in general.

Climber A has been climbing only for a short while but is improving at a steady and positive rate. He can push himself on top rope fairly hard and even on something as steep as a cave or roof (if it's high), but when it comes to something only slightly overhung or vertical/slab, there is the fear again!

Climber B has been climbing for a fairly long time but goes through phases of being comfortable to push his limits and other times when he just stops and can't go any further...

Climber C is a very accomplished climber who has a long history of developing her climbing for high-end performances on rock, but struggles to push harder on terrain that she has not already climbed on top rope a number of times. And even when she has done this, she might still struggle to push it on lead until she has made it high on the route at least a couple of times on lead before shouting "Take!".

These examples are real-life people I coach or have worked with in the past (they will know who they are if they are reading this).

In each example, there is the element of fear that crops up that is holding them back from pushing themselves when they really need it - so how do they overcome this?

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/61140_10151428694085828_1785756642_n.jpg)Less steep lead climbingClimber A needs to spend more time on less steep walls - initially dropping the grade they climb and just leading on routes at that angle with a lot of success and no falling. Eventually, introducing a bit more challenge to the sessions by trying something harder is required. When you begin this, it will be a good idea to also start practicing lead falls on the same bit of wall with someone you trust to belay you. Start of taking small repetetive falls with your harness at the clip until you can take bigger falls with your hips just above the clip. Continue like this 2-3 days a week for around a month and you will see big gains in confidence! It's important not to let yourself slip back into fear though, keep up with the fall practice and start attempting routes at a harder level again until you feel that you are capable of pushing it on hard onsights with little fear holding you back... Climber A is going to have average progression as he has only just started climbing.

Climber B is half-way there. He has already shown improvements in his ability to deal with the fear, but it is still holding him back. He needs to keep battling it out and not lose focus of what is most likely the biggest factor holding back his lead climbing performance. Remember that although there may be other aspects of your climbing performance that need work on, your fear of falling is actually driving them back as well whenver you tie onto a rope with the intention of leading something. You climb worse, you over grip, your technique turns to crap, etc... If you are confident and free to give a lead your all, you will improve every other aspect of your climbing for lead so much faster!

Climber C has got stuck in the rut that so many climbers get into. She has been in (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Ben_aspland2.jpg)Taking the Lead Fall!this place for a long time now and has no doubt developed her climbing style, tactics and goals based around her fear of falling. For her it is going to be more difficult than anyonelse to overcome and it comes back to the age old question of, "Do you really want to overcome it?". Is it holding her back from what she wants to achieve or is it something that she can get by with forever. In the end of the day, climbing in a way that reduces the chance at failure during a lead climb AKA "A fall", is not necessarily a bad thing, but it does seriously slow down progress and the development of good technique and style. In my opinion, all effort should be bent towards overcoming this over everything else if you find yourself in this situation, because if you do overcome it, you will get so much more enjoyment out of your climbing!

 

Falling is something everyone eventually is challenged by. It might be the fear of:

Whatever it is, you will most likely encounter it at some point in your climbing career, the important thing to remember is not to let it take advantage of you or latch onto you for too long otherwise it can soon become a metaphorical 100kg weight pulling you off the wall!

A recent 8a.nu forum post described the notion that if most 7a climbers climbed with the white hot intensity and fearless confidence of that of a 9a climber, then they would be hitting the 8a mark pretty soon... This isn't a rule nor is it necessarily true of everybody, but I can tell you this... I have yet to coach one person so far who I think couldn't improve their grade at least by a couple of grades with more confidence and ferlessness on the wall...


Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Fear: How much does it hold you back? (Part 2 - Failing)
Post by: comPiler on February 11, 2013, 06:00:47 am
Fear: How much does it hold you back? (Part 2 - Failing) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/mental/fear-how-much-does-it-hold-you-back-part-2-failing.html)
11 February 2013, 1:13 am

“Fear leads to anger… Anger leads to hate… Hate leads to suffering…”


Yoda

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/images-3.jpeg)

One of my favourite quotes of all time! And it is so very relevant in the world of climbing…

In the last blog post, we had a look at “Fear” with respect to “Falling”. What was quite rightly stated by some people on the comments is that there are different types of fear that holds us back, not just that of something obvious and tangible like falling.



Fear of Failure

I have written a lot on this subject, but it’s always something that is good to continually re-address to remind people as it is the first thing usually forgotten.

Anybody that considers him/herself performance orientated will come across “Fear of Failure” (FOF) at some point in their life. I am naturally a very competitive person and am confronted by FOF on a daily basis. It pops it’s head up in many different situations, not all climbing orientated, but it’s always in climbing that it affects me the most because climbing is what I am most passionate about.

Here are a couple of examples of FOF in action:

Example 1: I am at the wall with a bunch of friends I regularly climb with. Everybody is trying a new set of routes recently set and are all trying to onsight them. I look at route 1 thinking, “doesn’t look too bad… I know I can Onsight this”. One of my friends attempts it and fails. Instantly I am energised to get on it and prove to my friend and myself that I can onsight it.

Competition among friends and peers can be difficult...

Suddenly, another on of my friends jumps in front and asks if he can have a shot. He gets on it and Onsights it with a bit of a fight at the top. This guy is one of the best of the group, probably a similar level to me. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Sam--Friends-Routereading.jpg)Suddenly I am feeling a little bit nervous, I don’t fancy trying this anymore, it looks a little tricky in that upper section, I think I will go try some different climbs… There is a harder graded route right next to it nobody has tried yet… I get on it and onsight it to the top!



If I onsighted this one, then really I should onsight the easier one as well… I’m a little tired now… I think I’ll leave it for another day J



Example 2: I have been trying this route for a few days now. When I first attempted it, it felt way out of my league! Now I am falling off reaching the last few holds but I keep failing at that section. Every time I get on it I feel a little nervous, sometimes slightly sick… I am so close to doing this climb but it just seems so far up the wall to fall of repeatedly. Why can’t I just do it and get it over and done with!



I have another attempt, I feel ill at the start, really nervous but I continue anyway. I make it past my previous high point but I fall again! AGGGGHHHHHHH!!! This is so frustrating… What am I going to do? I wasn’t even pumped!



I decide to have a rest day and try it again when I am fully recovered. All day I am thinking about the climb, re-hearsing the moves in my head… I have it dialled, I just need to seal the deal, then I can move onto something else!



I stand below the route, prepping myself to try it… I don’t feel right… I’m just not in the right frame of mind. I try it again but this time I am shaking with nerves, I fall off at the first crux – I haven’t fallen of this low on any of my redpoint tries! I am getting worse L



(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/robbie-migranyaprofunda_5.jpg)Redpoint stress is a difficult opponent...

So the main thing to take away from each of these examples is that the FOF has had a negative effect on the performances. One thing to note however is that in each example, the FOF stems from a slightly different source.

Example 1 is very common and although you might be sitting there thinking “I have never experienced this”, really have a think about it! I believe a very high percentage of boys most likely experience this on a week to week basis whereas girls are probably less so (but are still susceptible to it). Example 1 is all about the FOF brought on from how you are affected by what other people think of you. If you are very self-conscious (a lot of people are), then this will affect you massively!

What you need to do is recognise that nobody actually cares how well you do on something, only you do. You are the one putting the pressure on yourself, not them, they are just there climbing, get used to it! If someone you are very competitive with is climbing with you and does really well, use it as fuel to push you harder on your attempt.

I have been using competitions for years as a way of training myself to deal better with nerves. When you put yourself on the spot to perform well on a route you haven’t chosen, in front of a crowd, in a competitive scenario and at a set time, you can be guaranteed a good mental challenge! The National Open Competitions are good for this, but so are the little winter bouldering leagues. With those, I tend to go around with a group of friends trying the problems. I always like to go first and avoid taking beta from people who have already tried it so I can stack the nerves as high as possible. For me going first is the most stressful, I at least like to see a few people do the problem usually, that’s why I now avoid that scenario and instead opt for the more challenging option :P(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/198667_10151428700855828_2001310623_n.jpg)Competitions are intense mental scenarios that can train you to better deal with the mental side of climbingCompetition climbing is one of the most stressful and intense climbing scenarios around

If you look at the situation in Example 1 you will see even at the end, when he onsighted the harder of the routes, he is still wary that he doesn’t want to jump on the one that he could potentially fail on and look bad. If I was in this scenario, I would challenge myself to get on it anyway and tell myself that even if I do fall of, that there is nothing to worry about because the only thing that matters is how I felt about the climb, and that nobody else’s opinion matters. A hard thing to do, but if it’s just training down the wall it doesn’t really matter, and if it’s a hard route outdoors, then there is a million routes to onsight outdoors so blowing one is not really a big deal.

Example 2 is again another common scenario of FOF. This is Redpoint stress! I have had this many a time and still struggle with it. The source of the fear this time comes solely from your ambition to do the climb. Sometimes a spot of peer pressure if one of your friends is trying it as well (or has done it) also crops up, but keeping it separate from Example 1, in our scenario the climber is trying the route on his own.

He has been climbing the route for a few days and has in that time built up in his head that he can do it. His mistake however is getting too relaxed in thinking that the route will be sent shortly now that he has made a few high points. It is easy to get sucked into a hole of failing endlessly due to nerves if you put too much pressure on yourself to tick the route. A prime example of this is Dani Andrada on “La Rambla” (9a+). He has been trying the route for 15 years and has failed on the penultimate moves endless numbers of times! It might be now that he has developed a mental block on this route due to too much pressure - it will be a very hard wall to push through with 15 years of pressure built in front of him. But imagine the feeling of triumph the day he clips those chains!!!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/6071643986_7e9806b222.jpg)

SUCCESS!!!

Even after a rest day he has built the route into more of an issue than it needs to be and he ends up having a terrible first attempt. This is probably partly due to the fact that he has had a rest day and might be a little rusty on the climb – it is definitely worth warming yourself up a but by dogging the climb and brushing all the holds before your attempt. At least then you are reminding yourself of the moves and giving yourself the best chance at succeeding by brushing the holds and warming up specifically.

Some special tricks I have learned to reduce anxiety for redpoint attempts are:

The three above all tie together. Usually I have a playlist of my favourite chill tunes that always get my relaxed and in a flowing state of mind. During my chill out period, I will be visualising the sequence both from an inner and outer view point as well as reinforcing my belief in myself as an individual climber and not as someone who is affected by outside influences such as peers, competitors or spectators.

This won’t work for everybody, but it works for me. Unfortunately it will be up to you to find out what works best, but it is worth experimenting with a few different things until you get one that sticks...

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: YCS Round 1 - "The Peak" (2013)
Post by: comPiler on February 24, 2013, 01:50:14 am
YCS Round 1 - "The Peak" (2013) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/ycs/ycs-round-1-the-peak-2013.html)
17 February 2013, 10:25 am

Yo Guys

Last Saturday was the first round of the YCS for many regions round the country including both North and South Scotland. In the North it was held at Inverness Leisure Centre and in the South it was at Stirling's "The Peak"!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/601970_2784624872288_1544526087_n.jpg)A host of competitors and coaches checking out myself and Jonny's creations (Photo By Rachel Carr)

 

This year was set to be the biggest one yet with 75 kids participating in total! This is massive for our regional rounds and it really shows just how Climbing as a sport is growing year after year. Rock Climbing is now considered to be the fastest growing sport in the world taking over from Skateboarding which has been number one for the last 20 years. I believe that the growth of the sport relies heavily on the regional work put into getting more kids into the sport such as events like this - if we can keep up the hard work going into these events, then the future for Climbing is going to be getting brighter for sure!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/64572_2784625792311_91754104_n.jpg)Our leader, Area Youth Co-ordinator Scott Forsyth (Photo by Rachel Carr)This years YCS is not only the biggest it's ever been, but its probably also looking at being the most competetive in each category we've ever had. There are so many kids in our Southern region that deserve a podium place and thus an opportunity to go to the YCS Finals in June, but the categories are so dense with strong climbers all operating at a high level that it becomes a real fight for the opportunity to go. This of course makes my job as setter and coach very tough indeed.

The day before I have to set the boulders and routes to a level that wil:

These are my main parameters as a Routesetter for the YCS Rounds.

This of course becomes very difficult when you set 3 x Routes and 3 x Boulders and in order for the meat of the climbers to enjoy it, they have to top the first 2 of each! This makes things harder as the pressure is all put on one route and one boulder which if not set perfectly, could lead to a lot of joint 1st places in the more competetive categories.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/479863_2784630952440_422651073_n.jpg)A YCS Competitor cranking it out on one of Stockings yaldi test pieces! (Photo by Rachel Carr)

Saturday's competition in Stirling was set by myself and a good friend of mine, Jonny Stocking (Junior British Champion). We arrived at "The Peak" around 8am and got together a plan of where the routes and boulders would be set. Because I am the Scottish Coach and heavily involved with the top climbers in each category either through 1:1 coaching or training events, I know pretty well the right grade to set the routes at and what will hopefully split each category... saying that... it is still hard work getting it right and we all make mistakes :P

Working with Jonny was great fun, we have a good laugh together and he is as hard a worker as any so the job gets done quickly and efficiently. By the end of the day, i felt that we had set together a quality selection of routes and boulder problems that the kids would both enjoy and be challenged on.

On the day, I was nervous for the kids I coach, but also nervous for myself and Jonny as I knew we had set to split the competition and if we had not done our job well enough, the competition could have been a flop!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/261295_2784633872513_544759097_n.jpg)Ian of the Stirling Spiders starting out on the gnarly V6 I set for Youth C, B and A Boys! (Photo by Rachel Carr)As the day progressed, we saw some amazing climbing skills, fantatsic displays of courage, fight, determinataion and effort on all fronts! It was good to see as well the comraderie amongst our young climbers, working together as if in a team but also against each other at the same time. This is something I don't think you see in other sports... yet another reason why climbing is the greatest sport on earth! :D

By the end of the day, there was of course a few tears amongst the crowds of children... but mostly they where happy faces with smiles. And the tears never last long because children always bounce back higher after they have fallen. I was proud of every single kid I saw climb that day - from those who have been training a year for another chance to make finals to those who had only been climbing 3 weeks and had come along just to see what a competition is like.

I am happy to say that we didn't require a superfinal and each category was split despite a few close calls in the more competetive categories :D

Looking forward to Glasgow Round 2 in a week and a halfs time!

PSYCHED!

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: YCS Round 3 - "The Pleasance" (2013)
Post by: comPiler on March 21, 2013, 06:00:31 am
YCS Round 3 - "The Pleasance" (2013) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/ycs/ycs-round-3-the-pleasance-2013-1.html)
20 March 2013, 12:26 am

EICA

GCC

TCA

Alien Rock

Avertical World

Stirling Spiders

Wow! The 3rd and final round of the YCS has come and gone already... Time surely does fly. This years Youth Climbing Series in Scotland has certainly been a rollercoaster of emotions for a lot of kids! I can talk from experience in the South Scotland as I have been coaching many of the kids entering these competitions and all I can say is that all these kids deserve medals for the dedication, training and continual pressure they put themselves under.

As much as the YCS is meant to be a relaxed kids competition, it gets beefed up by the fact that only the top 3 in each category can make it through to the finals! This years regional rounds have witnessed the most competetive categories ever seen in Scotland. In Youth D and above, to make finals, you actually have to be at the top of your game! This is only a good thing for improving the standard to which our young climbers can achieve - it's survival of the fittest at work.

Anyway, the night before the final round, Iain Sneddon, Mike Mullins and myself were hard at work setting boulders and routes at "The Pleasance" climbing gym at the Edinburgh University Centre for Sporting Excellence. We set a variety of styles across a range of grades that would hopefully challenge the best of the bunch the following day. It ended up being the latest I have ever had to set for a YCS. We were there until 21:30 (closing time), something I had never thought would happen and also hope never to repeat again.

On the day of the competition the centre was packed to breaking point! It was quite unbelievable that 75 kids and their parents/family members could all fit into such a small space, but somehow we managed it. The climbing I saw that day was nothing short of inspiring. Across ten categories, I don't think I saw one kid in any of them not giving it their all!

Youth E and D girls where the smallest category with only 3 entrants in each, but despite this the fight for 1st place was fierce. In Youth E, Katie Moore and Stephanie Millar have been neck on neck throughout every round, with Katie tipping Stephanie in the two previous. Round 3 proved no different, but with only 1 point separating them! I am proud to say I coach Katie, but she'll have to watch her back if she wants to keep ahead of the very inspiring Stephanie.

Youth D had a similar fight between some very talented climbers, Lisa Kean and Caitlin Storie. In the end Lisa came out on top by what was only 1 point (a slap and touch of a hold) - it must be pay back for Glasgow when Caitlin had tipped Lisa to 1st place :D

Youth E Boys on the other hand was a bigger category. The winner was the crowd favourite, Leo Harland-Sendra, last years podium 2nd in the Series Finals! Young Thomas Miedzybrodski came 2nd with Caitlin's (from Youth D) brother Andrew coming a close 3rd!

Youth D Boys had another strong bunch of climbers with Matthew Fall, Rory Whyte and Evan Davis battling it for top positions. Their finalist positions had more or less been secured as they where all consistent podium placed in every round, but the question on everyones minds was who would take the final round first place. Matthew had been unstoppable the last two rounds but Rory was determined to take his place. Rory's determination was apparent after a phenomenol climb in a super final against Matthew for first place! Matthew had fallen from the last move, but Rory had only just held the second last hold before making a wild jump and catching (not dropping) the final hold! I think George (Rory's Dad) might have had a mild seizure...

The competition is only getting hotter as we move up the categories. Entering into the Youth C's the number of participants increases as does the standard of all those competing. Youth C Girls was Rhiannon Freireich's for the taking, before she went and broke her arm during training the folowing week! So stepping up to the pedestal was Emma Davidson and Holly Davis who would go onto a super final to see who would take the South Scotland Series Crown... Emma was victorious!

Youth C Boys was in fact the most competetive category so far with 6 boys all with a chance at making finals. David Miedzybrodski had been an unstoppable force in the two previous rounds with flawless perfromances and an almost pristine score card with practically all tops across each round. Round 3 was no different, once again he demolished routes and boulders in his very focussed, quick and strong style. 2nd and 3rd was up for grabs with Sam Harland-Sendra, Rory Schoehuys, Connor Moore, Euan Farmer and Robert Davidson all with an equal opportunity to get that podium. There was impressive performances from all - but in the end it was Sam and Rory who ended up taking the places. I would like to say though that Euan Farmer and Connor Moore were both the youngest and still managed to get 5th and 4th place respectively... Effort!

The Youth B Girls was probably the next most competetive category. Eilidh Vass Payne had pretty much got this sowed up with a string of 1st places in the rounds previous and she made a hat trick of it with a third 1st place at the Pleasance. Kirsten Gray was favourite for 2nd but surprisingly dropped the last route a bit lower than expected, though she still managed to retain her 2nd place in the overall rankings. The real competition was for 3rd place with Gabriella Stewart and Keira Farmer eager for a chance to prove themselves worthy for the finals. In the end, Keira only just nabbed 3rd place with an epic performance on the final route that got her 2nd place in the 3rd round! A special mention as well to Jodie Brown (5th) and Claudia Charlwood (4th) who both did amazing across the whole competition.

Youth B Boys was a surprisingly big category overall and with some very strong contendors as well. Euan McFadyen, Ivan Bialy and Ian Bownes all represented themselves well across each round, but in the final it was Euan that took gold in a strong super final performance - the super final was a traverse I had to make up last minute when Ivan and Euan cruised up their final with apparent ease...

Finally, the Youth A categories! The oldest category in the competition was well represented in both the males and females. In the girls, it was Eleanor Hopkins who took first place overall with a hat trick of 1st places across all the rounds - not surprising from a current Irish Team member. 2nd was Beth Scott who was biting at Eleanors heels and missed out on a joint 1st placing by only 1 point!!! And in third was Megan Saunders.

The boys category was pretty big with 12 competitors in total. The top 3 contendors were Alexander Bosi, Fraser Mcllwraith and Euan King. All of these lads are long time competitors in the YCS. Alexander tipped Fraser to 1st place overall but was 2nd in the final round to the boulder beast. Euan King was 3rd place overall and 4th in the final round.

And that pretty much sums up the 2013 Regional Series of the YCS in South Scotland. It has been a fantastic set of rounds this year with an amazing glimpse into the developing and very promising talent coming out of Scotlands Climbing walls. Speaking as a very proud coach representing EICA, two thirds of the podium places belonged to kids training at EICA! That is a pretty good result :D

Nice on guys! Looking forward to our Scottish Team in the finals and seeing everyone giving it their all - CRUSH!

 

 

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Welcome to da Costay Blancay!
Post by: comPiler on March 29, 2013, 06:00:34 pm
Welcome to da Costay Blancay! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/spain/welcome-to-da-costay-blancay.html)
29 March 2013, 3:18 pm

My first trip to the Costay Blancay (Costa Blanca for those not familiar with Bo' Selecta). If I'm honest, I was not sure what to expect... I have heard a lot of good things about this place, but also a lot of not so good things :(  The unfortunate truth about flying to Alicante is the permanently etched image of Benidorm and British tourists on hen and stag parties... Not my idea of a holiday truth be told.

When I arrived at the airport at 9am, the plan was to go sort out the hire car, drive to accommodation, sort out stuff then return to pick Nat up from the Airport at 10pm. On arriving at the airport and seeing the car people, it turns out there is a law of no hiring out cars to people who have held a driving license for under a year... I didn't realise this and apparently it is in their terms and conditions (Chapter12 - Article 15 - Paragraph 9 - Section D - Point C).

So I waited about for ages until Nat finally arrived and we grabbed a €90 taxi to our accommodation in the pleasant little village of Finestrat. Finestrat is a beautiful little village perched high in mountaineous outcrops of Alicante, far flung from the horrors of Benidorm :P It's like being in any other climbing area I've ever been to in Spain - Siurana, Rodellar, Santa Linya, Margalef... It has the same rustic, rocky feel to it that I have become so acquainted to. It certainly is good to be back in Spain!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/893153_4903729504691_823522964_o.jpg)Sella - Wildside

So far we have had 4 days climbing out here, just under a week. It has been an interesting experience so far with both Nat and myself having to adjust to climbing on rock again. Nat has had less time between her last rock climbing adventures whereas my last sport trip was back in August (terrible I know!). But it has all been coming together slowly...

On our first day I climbed a popular 8a called "Watermark". I almost did the extension (8b) 2nd go but as I was pulling the moves after the crux, my foot slipped on a very polished foothold and as I fell my desperation to maintain grip on the crimps I was holding came to no avail.

Each day I have been here I have been using the abundance of 7b+'s and 7c's at the crag for warming up on. The climbing in these grades is really fun, there are no really hard or tweaky moves, all the holds are positive but there are sections of more bouldery styled climbing separated with good rests which makes for a nice warm up.

On the second day, I decided to try an 8c called "Espacio Tiempo". This literally translates into "Space Time" - cool name if you ask me :P I was keen to try this for a few reasons:

The first time I tried it I did every move first go without too much trouble, but it was noticeable that there was little rest between each section and it would be hard to link. I had two tries on Day 2, the second of which I managed a fairly big link through the first crux and into a good knee bar before "the crux" (the hardest move on the route).(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/IMG_0156.JPG)Alvaro Arenas en "Espacio tiempo" 8c

After a rest day we came back and I had another scout out of the route, trying the moves again, assembling a better sequence for the upper half and generally tidying up my lower sequence. 4th go I shocked myself falling off the last clip from the ground! I fell more because I was so shocked of my performance - I wasn't actually that tired...

We came back yesterday and I gave it a redpoint attempt after warming up on a spectacular 7c called "La Casa de los Tullidos". I fell again right at the very top but only because my foot popped thanks to a rushed placement. I decided to clean up my foot movements up here for a better, more efficient sequence. On my 2nd go of the day, 6th go in total, I climbed from the bottom all the way through my previous high point into a good knee bar and stuck the final crux without much trouble. Clipping the chains felt good and that was my 2nd ever 8c and the first (hopefully of more) for 2013...

I was a little worried at first how I would climb this trip. I have had an unfortunate finger injury plagueing me since the start of 2013 and it has forced me into a much more gentler training regime. I know however that technique always triumphs over strength and that it was always possible to make a good trip out of this even if I wasn't firing on all cylinders. I am now confident that I can make more from this trip than I had expected with this early triumph and hopefully I can move on from this to some bigger and better ascents over the next few weeks :D

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/886644_4877704254076_968168848_o.jpg)Natalie on a giant hand!

I was really inspired as well by some words taken from the world first 9a onsighter, Alexander Megos. I don't know him well, but I have met him a few times on my travels and have seen him at the competitions a lot over the years. His words really inspired me to take a deeper look into my attitude towards climbing and performance:

"Something I have learned in my climbing years is that time management is really important, but the most important thing is fun. It’s not worth training hard for a good result in a competition or to climb a hard route, if on the other hand you lose the fun which climbing should be. It doesn’t matter if you have climbed the route or you’ve won the competition. When you feel like chilling or doing something totally different, just do it. Sooner or later you will find your way back to climbing because it’s simply the best sport on earth"

Alexander Megos

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/32126_634122104580156250_To_have_and_not_to_be_9a_kalydna_Kalymnos_Climbing_Guide_8.JPG)

If all my young padawans are reading this back home, write this down in your diaries and reflect on it whenever your feeling down during training, at a competition or with a project climb.

Anyway, I'm gonna finish of my rest day today and tomorrow - VENGA TIO!!!

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Costa Blanca - Week 1
Post by: comPiler on April 01, 2013, 01:00:33 am
Costa Blanca - Week 1 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/spain/costa-blanca-week-1.html)
31 March 2013, 9:37 pm

So it is the end of our first week here in Costa Blanca! Nat has been cruising everything and has only just started to check out some harder stuff now. Unfortunately she is not staying for much longer, only 1 day of climbing left :( I however have plenty of time and am hoping to get much more ticked before I go home on the 18th April...

I was keen to see how Nat would get on with something much harder than what she has ever tried before. Nat doesn't push herself that much, she will go for things when she feels like it, but often she chooses to do things that she can tick within the day. This is a cool approach and means she gets a lot of climbing done, but I know she has the potential to climb a lot harder if she got stuck into a proper project!

So yesterday, I chose an 8b+ for her to have a go on. The route I thought she would like was called "El Club de la Lucha" which translates as "Fight Club"! The climb takes an obvious blue water streak up a slightly overhung wall. The climbing is immensley technical on small slopey edges and slopers. I have not tried this route before, but according to comments on 8a.nu and from reading the guide, it appeared to be both popular and sustained rather than cruxy.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/photo-13.jpg)Needless to say, Nat went for it and got high on the onsight making it to about half-way before falling mid-way through the crux. She quickly got back on the wall and cruised through the crux moves before falling again another few metres higher... After working this section out she continued to climb higher again falling just shy of the chains... Nat came down slightly dispondant as to how hard it felt, but all I can say is that if I had been as solid at climbing 8b+ first try as she was on that, I'd be thinking I had a bloody good shot at doing it second go.

Nat doesn't have much experience with redpointing as she often just does routes onsight or 2nd go... In time and with a bit more work spent trying harder routes, Nat should be capable of climbing 8b's and 8b+'s with relative ease after work and I have no doubt about it that 8c is well within her ability...

During the last couple of days I have been doing a bit more mileage mixed with trying an 8b+ called "Océano". Now, I didn't really choose this route based on it's asthetics or quality... It has few ascents on 8a.nu and from discussing with locals, not many try it as it is regarded as a tough 8b+... there are much friendlier routes in the area at the grade to try so people prefer to go for them :P The main reason I was attracted to this route was because it linked in with the 8c I climbed the other day to make an 8c+ (or 9a according to some?).

I wanted to check the moves out to see if I could climb them and whether or not it would be possible for the link. After one go to check out the moves, I went for a redpoint attempt and fell off the very last hard move. It was close but I still felt that the move I was doing was very tough and I wouldn't be able to climb it from the 8c. After a 3rd go I fell at the same place and decided that a new sequnce was in order. After a bit of working out and trying different methods, I discovered a much nicer way of doing the move. By now my fingers were pretty trashed and I wasn't feeling as though I could pull it off, but owing to the fact that I am in Spain and seeing the VENGA/VAMOS/AMUERTE attitude of the locals, I decided to go for it :)

As I came up to the crux move, I set myself up into the new position and went for the hold (a positive tufa) that I had prevously fallen from. I stuck it solid and continued with upward progression to clip the chains :D

I know I could do the link for sure, but if I am totally honest, I am totally awe struck by so many awesome lines here that I don't want to leave with just a few. I will see how the next week goes as there a re a few more routes I really really want to climb, and afterwards if nothing else piques my fancy... then maybe I will go all out for the link :)

At the end of week 1, Nat and I have accumulated a good tick list:

Robbie:

 

 

Natalie:

 

 

 

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Costa Blanca - Week 2
Post by: comPiler on April 07, 2013, 01:00:19 pm
Costa Blanca - Week 2 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/spain/costa-blanca-week-2.html)
7 April 2013, 8:32 am

So another week has passed in Costa Blanca and the weather has managed to maintain up until now, however the rain only lasted a very brief time and is now off again and the forecast is due to be sun, sun and more sun!

Nat has gone back to Austria already, but not before a brief stop in France meeting up with friends, visiting her old workplace for Entreprises and stopping off in Mallau to watch the Boulder World Cup. She had a great trip out here and now she is looking forward to the rest of her work placement in Austria (Landeck) and hopefully joining us for a trip to Ceuse in the Summer :D(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/photo-7.jpg)

So today this week has been yet another eventful one for Team Scotland! I have been joined out here by two others, Amanda and Jules who are keen to push their own level as far as possible. Amanda has been getting stuck into some quick redpoint mileage and has thus far dispatched a couple of quick 7b+'s and is now working on a 7c. Jules only just arrived and today was her first day climbing. Jules is hoping to work an 8a out here, she had already tried one from her last trip called "La Putita de Millau" so was keen to get on this. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0111.jpg)Amanda Lyons bending her way through the crux of "Yo Somos Olimpicos" (7c)

In the morning today, I decided that the 8a seemed easy enough at the beginning to justify warming up on which resulted in a successful onsight for me :D Turns out that if you don't go direct at one section it is only 7c+, fair enough as it felt too eays for 8a, but this is where things start getting a bit weird and I don't really see the point in giving it 8a if it is easier to climb 1m left of the bolt as opposed to straight up...

"Dosis" (8b+)

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0037.jpg)End of the tufas on "Dosis"After warming up, I got on with my redpoint attempt on "Dosis" (8b+). First go I mucked up the first crux as it was so cold and I couldn't feel my fingers. The moves through this section are really powerful between one small but positive crimp, a bad sloper and a small pinch (tufa). With my numb fingers I just couldn't feel anything I was holding so opted for a return to the ground, 5 minutes rest and a re-attempt. This time I crushed the boulder crux and made it through the the tufas out right... It was only once here that I realised my kneepad was too high on my leg for the kneebar :O I quickly moved through the next sequence to a higher (better) kneebar that would fit and finally I could shake out a bit :D(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0044.jpg)On the upper section of "Dosis" (8b+)

The next part of the climb was a techy sequence between pockets and a slopey right hand tufa which involves one or two quite powerful committing moves. Luckily I didn't much these up and managed to continue with my upwards progression into the rest before the final crux.

This last section scared me considerably as it involved some big moves between some not very good holds with bad feet! I had issues figuring this bit out on my first time up the route, but now at least I had a decent sequence sussed. After a good shake at the rest, I blitzed through the moves and before I knew it I was clipping the chains - WHOOP!

"Dosis" for me was the ultimate Wildside route, it literally had everything you could want - Slopers, Pockets, Crimps, Jugs, Tufas, Technical climbing, Bouldery climbing, Endurance climbing, etc... It was a real adventure and the first time I have felt nervous climbing a route on redpoint this trip for the sheer fact that I knew there was multiple places I could fall off if I just wasn't positioning my body accurately.

"Pinoreta" (8c)

As well as "Dosis", I have also done a few other excellent routes in the last few days. I climbed the stunning line to the right, "Pinoreta" (8c). This was the last hard pure line to climb at Wildside for me before I start either moving onto link ups or projects if I want to try something harder.

"Pinoreta" is a beautiful sheet of orange rock scattered with long sections of water polished tufa and a short bouldery section at the start on pockets and crimps. The route itself is split into these two sections, the top probably raking in at about 8a from the rest point (a massive jug!). The bottom crux is weird and I am not sure entirely of the boulder grade? It could be anywhere from V6 to V8 - hard to tell. It involves a pretty cool set of moves:

 

 

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0016.jpg)The crux of "Dosis" - Going to the sloper!That is the boulder crux of "Pinoreta". The 8a top out is mostly technical bridging between two slopey tufas, but there is a rather hard section right at the end of the most difficult part of the climb where you have to stab for a good sika crimp quite high up. This move for me wasn't hard on its own but required good precision and accuracy as well as enough energy in your left arm to create the force necessary. To avoid unnecessary pump for this move, I missed the previous clip (which I would have clipped from my right hand, holding on with my left). This meant that after doing the move, I would be around 4m runout and to get to the next clip you had to climb still another 4-5m of climbing that wasn't entirely easy. When I did the move on the redpoint, all thoughts of falling went out of my head, I was focussed and determined asnd climbed this section as confidentally as ever before. Thanks to Dan for capturing the ascent on video. The guys said afterwards that from skipping the clip I did it might be worth an E11? :P

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0131.jpg)Ramon (local) getting the first clip in on "El Club de la Luchas" (8b+)

 

So what now?

After doing "Dosis" yesterday, I tried another 8b+ called "El Club de la Luchas". Nat had a go on this before and the climbing looked awesome! It is very sustained with little or no rests for most of the way, but the good thing is at least it isn't too overhung meaning a bit of weight through the feet and you can reduce the pump slightly. The climbing revolves around a long blue bumpy streak created by waterflow down the wall which has resulted in awesome sidepull slopers nearly the entire way up the climb! It certainly is very different to anything I have done before and I am really excited to get back on this today and hopefully finish it off.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0006.jpg)

After "El Club de la Luchas", I still have another 12 days left! There is one or two 8b+'s left in the sector, one called "Septiembre" which does look really good! Also another called "El Ultimo Mono" that looks amazing, but a bit dusty as if nobody has ever climbed it :P I now this isn't true as it is regarded as a top 50 in the guidebook, but maybe it has had less traffic this year?(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0004.jpg)Jules preparing for her first attempt at "Yo Somos Olimpicos"

There is also some good looking 8a-8b's I have yet to climb which look great and I would love to practice my onsighting and see what I can get up to with them.

And of course there are the link ups :D But there is so much good new climbing to be done!

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Costa Blanca - Week 3 and Home Again!
Post by: comPiler on April 22, 2013, 01:00:54 am
Costa Blanca - Week 3 and Home Again! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/spain/costa-blanca-week-3-and-home-again.html)
21 April 2013, 9:50 pm

So I have just returned from what was yet another successful climbin trip in Spain. The Costa Blanca has inspired me for another season on rock.

Since my last blog post, I climbed a few more hard routes and even got my very first "First Ascent"! When I left you last, I had tried "El club de la Lucha" (8b+) and was going back for the send on the following day. On arriving at the crag, I warmed up by doing the first 5 moves of the route (just climbing up and down), then went straight for it. Initially I wasn't feeling 100%, but I decided that I would just press on anyway and give it a good blast.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/525303_10151527002248022_481788747_n.jpg)Onsighting an 8a at "Cabezon de Oro"I mucked up the lower section of the climb resulting in a forced down climb to get another shakeout below a roof. I don't know what happened really, I think it was a lack of knowing where my feet should be going, luckily the climbing in this section of the route wasn't actually that hard and I could recover well enough to continue into the meat of the route. The climbing from then on was very sustained with little or no rest for around 15-20m. I climbed quickly only stopping to shake at one point mid-way and then again just below the chains. The scary part was deciding to skip a long extended quickdraw before entering the redpoint crux which resulted in an 8m runout with not so easy climbing to the top :P Luckily though I never fell and to the relief of both myself and my belayer (Jules) I clipped the chains before letting go :D(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/532663_10151655792678203_756767054_n.jpg)Our awesome villa!

What next? Well, I decided seeing as I was climbing most of the hardest stuff at the crag within a few goes, that I might as well have a look at one of two unclimbed projects at the crag. The one that caught my eye in particular was a route called "Tendon House". It was first bolted and attempted by a climber from Madrid and had seen some interest from locals but was yet to have an ascent. The route takes a wildly blank yet still very steep wall for 25m before you clip the chains. From the ground the route looks very similar to a 9a in Gorge du Loup called "PuntX" which if i'm honest scared the living daylights out of me :P Locals at the crag estimated the route to be a possible 9a given that it had not had an ascent and I wasn't inclinded to argue based on what it looked like from the ground...(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0058.jpg)"Tendon House" (8b+)

Upon inspection, it turned out very differently... I found a lot of hidden pockets (drilled) and sika crimps blind from ground view (unless you know where to look). I had a bit of difficulty with the first crux close to the ground at first, but deciphered a brilliant sequence through it which made it little more than about V7 on it's own. After this, you took a quick shake out on some small holds and from there you where firing up the wall on positive mono pockets for another 5m. The climbing itself is not hard, it's just whether or not you can stand hanging from one finger and pulling quite big locks between each of them.

There was another crux coming up which involved a powerful move to a sika undercut crimp, but once that was over you were back on mono's on slightly less steep angled wall.

I had two tries to work out the moves - my second involved a brief attempt but I failed in the first crux and decided to work over the moves once again. The next day I came back and sent it first try with the locals watching. I pretty much cruised the whole route with the exception of one move right at the end... a hard lock off from a left hand mono, high feet on smears to a good mini jug. I missed the jug short of half a centimetre on my first pull and managed to hold it coming down and rest again on the two lower mono's... I tried again giving it a bit more umph this time and succesfully stuck the hold and topped out!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/601852_10151655778268203_1432936087_n.jpg)The world's hardest 8a - "Ultimo Aviso" - I think it helps if you 7ft tall!

The locals were excited to see the project sent and eagerly awaited my grading of the route. I climbed it on my 3rd try, and based on how it felt when I climbed it and the breakdown of boulder problems on the route I felt it would justify anything above 8b but not as hard as 8c. I reckon that in some areas, this might get 8b. Somewhere like Frankenjura or Margalef where this style of climbing is common and people are used to it, but for Sella grading, I think this would be consistent with the other 8b+'s of the crag.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0003.jpg)After doing "Tendon House", I was psyched to do some easier routes and more mileage. On one day I climbed a new 8a bolted by some cool Spanish guys we met at the crag, an 8a+ called "Romocop" which in my opinion was the best 8a+ I have ever climbed, then finished the day off onsighting another 8a called "Paula" bolted by Armando (Sella's answer to Jesus). And the next day I flashed "Tirali Valent", an incredible 8a+ up a slightly overhanging section of the wall and small but positive edges all the way to the top :D

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/66821_10151527002083022_812164071_n.jpg)

In the last few days I climbed a few more routes in the low 8's and high 7's. I climbed a couple of new 8b's, one which I was one move off the flash and probably would have done so if it had been slightly cooler. This was called "La Criatura" (8b). It is the most fake, manufactured/sika'd climb I have ever been on, but despite this, it was actually quite nice :P I also did another 8b 2nd go called "Maestro Suriyoda", another route that I think a flash would have been possible with cooler conditions. When I climbed this it must have been 30 degrees and it literally felt like a sauna as I climbed! I had built this up in my mind as a really hard route as I had seen Armando battling with it for a good few weeks... On the send though it felt OK with only the easier upper section (7b-ish) feeling like I was in risk of falling off, thanks to the high temps.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/375772_10151527001543022_231748851_n.jpg)Dyno method to crux...On the second last day we headed to Cabezon de Oro. This crag is utterly amazing and I only wish I could have had a couple of extra days there. I onsighted a fabulous 8a there called "Columneta" and tried one of the best lines I have ever been on, an incredible 8b called "Clemencia". The crux move can be done as a dyno, but I managed to do it with a very high drop knee and using a terrible 2 finger undercut intermediate. This made thngs more controlled but it was still at least a V7 boulder with 8a to finish!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/430498_10151527001583022_504145005_n.jpg)Dropknee method to crux...

And finally, the last day we headed to a smaller crag called "Castellet de Calp". Now... my honest opinion of this place was - Total Crap! However, I can't speak for everyone as the rest of the group actually really liked it :P I thought it was short, sharp and choss... not what I came to Spain for. Despite this though, I dealt with it as it was my last day and did every hard route at the crag including 3 x 7c+'s and 2 x 7c's. For the record, "over-caffeinated sugary drink company" (7c+) and "Chasing the Dinosaur" (7c) were actually not too bad, but none would be worthy of 3 stars if you compare with other crags in the guidebook... which does make you wonder whether they actually think about what they give stars to when writing the guide?(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/923056_10151527001878022_315049189_n.jpg)The move!

Anyway, was such a great trip and despite having ticked sector Wildside bar a few routes, I will definitely be back. It seems that there is a lot more to go at in the surrounding area as well and I am super keen to get back to Cabezon de Oro as well as the facing crag which apparently is like to Oliana!?!?!?!

Right now, all I can think about is getting back on the rock... Ceuse here I come!!!

Thanks also to Stewart Stronach for the photos at Cabezon de Oro and Amanda Lyons for the photos at Sella, Wildside :D

 

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/blogger/listings/robz.html)

Title: Youth Colors (Day 1) - An Eye Opener!
Post by: comPiler on May 19, 2013, 01:01:14 am
Youth Colors (Day 1) - An Eye Opener! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/competitions-2/youth-colors-day-1-an-eye-opener.html)
18 May 2013, 9:09 pm

Hey Guys!

At the moment I am writing from Natalie's flat, situated in the small village of Landeck, 15 minutes drive from one of the world's best climbing walls, Kletterhalle Imst!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0829.jpg)A busy day at Kletterhalle Imst

Kletterhalle Imst has been hosting international competitions for many years, and one of the traditions of the wall has been to host a very special competition called the "Youth Colors". This is aimed at kids not yet able to compete internationally for their country due to being too young, so Youth Colors is for Youth D and Youth C kids (or Children and Pupils as it is called in Austria). (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0614.jpg)David Miedzybrodski on the 7c Yellow

I flew over on Wednesday night fom Edinburgh to Frankfurt, where I slept overnight in the airport, then caught a flight from Frankfurt to Innsbruck an then a train to Imst. It was a bit of an exhausting trip but worth every bit of it to see the kids in action at the comp this weekend :D

So today was the first day of the competition. I am here with a number of Scottish kids who I coach as well as a full British Team of 16 kids who are all attending the competition. Talking to Andy Knabl (Imst Team Coach and Organiser of Youth Colors), he said this year is bigger than all the previous years! There are literally hundreds of kids from all over Europe competing and all at a very high standard. The grades of the routes across the board are high, with the easiest in Youth C Boys and Girls (11-12 years old) being about 7a and the hardest probably in the region of 7c+? For the the younger boys and girls in Youth D (9-10 years old) the routes range in difficulty from around 6a+ to 7a!

All the kids climbed out of their skin today and I am happy to say there was about 95% positive vibes the whole day from everyone with only a little bit of disapointment (which never lasted very long anyway) :P

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0688.jpg)Connor Moore giving it his all on the Blue 7c!

Young Connor Moore and Nathan Whaley (London) are both in the lower end of Youth C and therefore had a very tough competition as they were competing against kids a year older and more developed than them (it's obvious the difference when you see the size of some of the kids :P). Despite this they each gave it their all. Connor climbed exceptionally well on his first three routes (all graded around 7c) making it to around 3/4 height on all of them. It took Nathan a little longer to get the hang of things, but that is only natural when it's your first International competition and especially when your one of the smallest and youngest in the category. Nathan in particular came into his own after the mid-day break on the second set of three routes - it was here he managed his first top of the competition, a tricky green that could be 7a/b? He also gave a great effort on both the Black and Blue routes that had each only a handful of tops.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0784.jpg)Nathan Whaley of London crushing

David Miedzybrodski was competing beside them and as usual was dispaying impressive amounts of focus and tactical preparation - he is a machine in mind as well as body :P After the first set of three routes, David was ranked 23rd I believe. It was unfortunate that he dropped some places in the second round when he made some little errors on one of the routes, nothing to worry about, just experience for next time - he can make it up tomorrow I'm positive :D

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0673.jpg)Rory Cargil before topping his 2nd route (7c)From Aberdeen we also had Rory Cargil, probably Scotlands current strongest hope for a Youth B international contendor after Angus Davidson and William Bosi move up to Youth A. Rory showed us all how hard he has been working since he was dropped from the GB Team end of last year - I think they should re-consider after his epic performance today. Rory was within the last 10 moves of every route he tried bar the ones he onsighted!!! He is seriously working in another league right now, its mega impressive to watch :D Hopefully he makes the Team for Youth B next year and gets to continue to show his amazing progression in the international stage for 2014! At the end of today Rory was placed 12th with 3 points separating him from 10th and that was after messing up his first route by climbing it at the speed of light because he thought he only had 4 minutes :P Tomorrow I think he can make up some more places with a couple more brillaint performances...

Lisa Keane, the youngest of the kids out her with me started today a little shaky. She has only just started her competition career this year, so jumping from small regional rounds to full on Internationals is some step up!!! I don't think there is anyone in the whole competition though I can say has made more progress than her. At the start of the day she was holding back and not going for moves, eventually to the point that she really didn't want to go on the wall anymore. After a chat outside in the sun about not letting the fear of results or competition ruin a good performance and instead, just going for it on every move and trying your hardest, she returned to the climbing with renewed vigour and psyche and went on to really enjoy her climbing! The difference was phenomenol, she even made the hardest route look easier than the girl who is currently placed 1st!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0853.jpg)

There are of course a much bigger contingent of Brits out here with a strong crew from England and Ireland. Eddie Cooper is out here with two of his kids, Carson and Anna, and Ian Dunne (GB Team Manager) is out here with a number of English kids as well including GB Team Members Aiden Dunne and Alex Norton, both of whom climbed exceptionally well today - Special mention must be made to Alex who timed out on two different routes, both of which he would have topped (one of which he did actually top out on but failed to do so in the 5 minute time limit).

Anyway, it has been a fantastic day and I am so psyched to see such a well organised kids competition - the day has literally flown by without so much as a hiccup or time delay throughout the whole day! Probably the best organised competition I have ever been to...

Props to Andy Knabl :D

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0614.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0618.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0634.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0635.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0636.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0638.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0650.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0656.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0672.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0673.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0682.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0688.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0694.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0715.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0749.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0751.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0774.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0784.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0791.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0803.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0817.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0827.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0829.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0847.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0853.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0855.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0866.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0875.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0883.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0885.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0893.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0908.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0914.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0939.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0963.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0984.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0995.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0998.jpg)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Youth Colors - Training Week
Post by: comPiler on May 23, 2013, 01:01:24 am
Youth Colors - Training Week (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/training/youth-colors-training-week.html)
22 May 2013, 8:54 pm

We are now well into the trip, 3 days to be precise. We have been non-stop since the Youth Color Climbing Festival in Imst, the kids have barely had time to sit down for a rest! I can tell you without a shadow of a doubt that they have certainly been put through their paces training with the Austrians! WOW! Those kids have some endurance! But I think it is starting to rub off on our British kids as they have been looking fitter and fitter by the day... and tonight was probably the peak of the trip.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1415.jpg)Nathan on classic 6a @ Tumpen (Ötztal)

 

After a mornings climbing at Tumpen, a fantastic low grades crag in the Ötztal Valley, we headed straight to Kletterhalle Imst where we met up with the Imst Team and their trainer Andy Knabl for our second days training with them. We trained for 3 hours, most of which involved a heavy session doing various styles of endurance based training on lead and top rope, after which we headed outside to the huge competition wall for some hard leads. Connor made an impressive onsight of a Yellow 7a and 7a+, the second of which he was into the roof for the second pitch graded 7b+! David climbed out of his skin despite a very hard days training and even managed to knock out his first 7c onsight, a purple crimp fest that built into a severe overhang on powerful moves and a huge tufa! He then went onto onsight another 7b...(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1461.jpg)

Connor after stripping the 6b+ (That's a lot of quick draws!!!)

 

Lisa and Nathan have also been making some impressive leaps in performance. Nathan who is mainly a boulderer back home in London has been pushing his endurance threshold and was managing laps on one of his comp routes for the YCCF! Lisa has also made some incredible gains in performance, after having only just been introduced to lead back in March and never having taken any lead falls - on this trip she has been pushing her lead grade to an insane level and has now lead both 6c and taken many lead falls on route graded up to 7b+!!! Not bad for a 9 year old girl :P She has become good friends with a little Austrian girl called Yana, both have been pushing each other and its very nice to see some international friendships being created on this trip.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1433.jpg)

At Tumpen this morning, Lisa climbed her first ever sport route outside, a classic 6a. David, Connor and Nathan also climbed an amazing 6b+ called "Indian Reservation" and David tried a 6c at the end of the outdoor session. Despite these low grades, the climbs themselves felt very hard - more to do with the style than anything else. I think the rock type is Schist, for the grades I would probably have said the 6b+ felt more like a 7a on Limestone if I'd compared them. I looked at the 7c and couldn't see any holds... scared me silly :P

Yesterday we had a rest day as we had been climbing three days on (two days of competing and a days training with the Imst Team). For a rest day we headed to the mega fun water park called Area 47. This place is just insane, there is so much fun to be had here and I honestly can't wait to go back next year :P We managed to sneak Connor onto some of the bigger rides that required him to be a year older, one of which was a huge water slide with a sled that you lay on your stomach whilst going down. It was mad!!! I also got winded badly doing a huge slide/jump which threw me at least 10m into the air before I landed back first into the water... Pictures to come :P

There was also a pretty cool climbin wall, bouldering wall and a pillar of the bridge that Hansjorg Auer had bolted and climbed. We where all interested to try these fun looking routes but we hadn't brought our climbing kit with us... The receptionist told us that only Hansjorg has climbed these :P(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1447.jpg)

Tomorrow we are climbing again outside in the morning, then heading to the wall for another training session with the Imst Team, after which we will probably hit the Outdoor wall again :D PSYCHED! Oh yeah, Nat and I have also been enjoying the Imst wall climbing - I have onsighted the two hardest routes from the competition both which were 7c+, onsighted three 8a's on the big competition wall outside and managed an onsight of an 8a+ on the competition wall outside as well. The crazy thing with Imst wall is the volume at which they set routes... every 2 weeks every climb in the main hall on the main sections of wall are changed... so basically every 2 weeks there will be a new set of around 20 x routes from 7b to 8c... The last set included around 8 routes 8b and harder! Thats one reason why all the climbers here are so good :P

 

 

 

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1468.jpg)Connor psyched after achieving 7a+ onsight at Kletterhalle Imst!

 

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1470.jpg)David Psyched after achieving his first 7c insight!

 

 

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1415.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1416.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1417.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1418.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1420.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1425.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1426.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1427.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1433.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1435.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1441.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1447.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1449.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1464.jpg)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1470.jpg)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Céüse 2013 - There an Back Again...
Post by: comPiler on August 14, 2013, 09:56:36 pm
Céüse 2013 - There an Back Again... (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/ceuse-2/ceuese-2013-there-an-back-again.html)
31 July 2013, 11:05 am

Hey Guys

I have just returned from yet another eventful and character building climbing trip to Céüse, France. I was out there for around 4 weeks in total with two others travelling with me from Scotland, Andy Latta and William Bosi.

For those of you who don’t know Andy and William, Andy is one of my oldest and best friends, we have shared many adventures together since we were young and he is still my favourite climbing buddy on outdoor sport climbing trips. William is one of my young apprentices who is quickly becoming a master. For William, this was his first big trip abroad with the guys, he’s only 14 but he was ready for it and he has no doubt learned a lot from the weeks he spent at Céüse.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1012447_10151761687954802_1744691131_n.jpg)

The Journey Out



We had planned to head out from Edinburgh early on the morning after we packed the car, however a last minute decision changed our plans and we ended up leaving at midnight of that evening. It was quite a big step for me as I had never driven so far in my life, the idea of driving 20+ hours in a car laden with all our kit including ourselves was scary, however after the first couple of hours I adjusted well to the endless streaming of lights passing by on the motorway and the doubling in weight of the car.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/602726_10151761685259802_335798619_n.jpg)William tucking into his staple brekkie of Cookie Crisp without milk - all you need to crush at Ceuse

There is no doubt about it; Andy is the best driving companion I could ever have had. He is the most organized person I know, he had the maps and directions down and all the necessary paperwork for the ferry as well as all our passports kept nice and safe (if it was up to me, I would probably have ended up in some remote part of Asia no doubt). Andy was like my human sat-nav/alarm clock, when I looked tired he was the first to step in, slap me about a bit and stick on some good beats to get me psyched up again.

All in all we didn’t go too far wrong on the journey out – we got a bit confused around London that cost us a short amount of time, then we had to spend a lot of time waiting for the Ferry in Dover. And when we finally hit the French roads we managed perfectly until the final step of the journey i.e. reaching Céüse from Gap. I had never actually done this before and our directions only took us as far as Gap, so of course when we arrived at 5am in Gap, finding the crag took a bit longer than anticipated.

It was all good in the end though, we found the crag, set up camp and fell asleep as soon as our heads hit the pillow :P And that was the start of Céüse 2013!

Getting Started



So I wasn’t sure what to expect with Céüse 2013 – I had hoped to go back this time and get on some of the harder 8th grade routes as it is mostly these that I have left to climb. As I had climbed a number of 8b+ and 8c routes this year in Spain, I figured it might be a possibility to do an 8c in Céüse as well, this would certainly make my year since the Céüse 8c’s are amongst the most stunning lines I have yet to encounter on my travels.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/774349_10151582538548178_755803135_o.jpg)Darren climbing a big 7b in Berlin Sector - I did the 7b to the left of this which might have been 7c anywhere else!

The last time I had actually been to Céüse was 2 years previously and I had felt reasonably strong on one of the 8c’s then, so this year I was hoping to see some improvements. Of course, it takes time to get used to a style and seeing as I had just driven a ridiculous number of hours already, gone 2 days without sleep, drunk 4 over-caffeinated sugary drink companys and sung a lot of Oasis… I was probably not in the best state of body or mind for climbing hard routes. Needless to say I flung myself at them anyway and got a bit shut down.

The first week became more of a “getting used to Céüse again” experience after that… What was really good to see was just how well William adapted his strong indoor fitness and strength to the Céüse rock. On his first day he came close on an 8a onsight (“Carte Blanche”) and then quickly dispatched it 2nd go without any trouble whatsoever. He then started trying an 8c in between attempts on other easier routes. The 8c he tried was called “Chronique de la Haine Ordinaire”, a tough short boulder section presumed to be of around F7C+ boulder difficulty followed by a longer section estimated at around f8a+ route grade. The boulder section was split in two, both around F7B+ I’d say. We could both do each section on its own, but I struggled a lot with one move going to a pinch on the lower boulder whilst William seriously disliked a small mono hold on the upper boulder. The 8a+ section was still possible to fall on, but both of us felt very confident that if we made it through the lower section then we would get to the top. I gave “Chronique de la Haine” a few goes but wasn’t psyched after it tore a big flapper in my finger. William persisted longer with it but did the same after a few more attempts.

I then decided to try easier routes that I could do in less attempts, as I wanted to get more into the style. There was still quite a few 8a’s and 8a+’s I had yet to try so I was keen to go around them and clip a few chains. This turned out to be harder than expected :P

Whilst William was trying 8c’s and I was ticking some of the easier routes in Céüse, some that were repeats and others new to me. Andy was getting back into sport climbing after a long time off. He had suffered a very bad rope burn on his hand earlier this year that laid him off climbing for a long time! He was mostly interested to see how much the scar tissue on his hand would be affected by the sharp rock in Céüse. Thankfully, Andy didn’t seem to be affected too badly by his hands and managed a quick repeat of a super classic 7b “Lapinerie”.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1005466_10151761688434802_810303464_n.jpg)William Bosi trying "La Part du Diabl" (8c) - in the foggy fog!!! CRAZY BOY!!!





 

Starting to Function



After a week of climbing in Céüse, all of us were starting to get the hang of things. I still didn’t feel 100% in tune with the rock but it was coming slowly. It was this week that a few friends were arriving from various places as well which meant instead of lots of walking, I got to do some more driving!!! FUN!!! Our first guest was Alexander Bosi (William’s older brother) who was arriving in Grenoble. Secondly we had a very good friend of both Andy and myself, a Danish girl called Michelle Kim-Theisen who was supposed to meet us in Gap but ended up messing up (because she’s Danish) and we had to drive to some random little town in the middle of nowhere :P It was actually quite an adventure and Andy will do a good job of describing some of the “roads” we had to avoid falling off the side of… Worth it to pick up Michelle and grab us some pizza :D  On the way back Andy and I serenaded Michelle with some amazing Oasis sing along action – by the way, if anyone is interested Andy and I are now doing a karaoke style duet which covers mostly Oasis but also do Owl City stuff and Magic Man by B.O.B.

Also joining us at the campsite was a friendly (and slightly terrifying) face from home, Mike Halcrow. Mike is a friend of Andy and myself who joined in on the trip as well. I told him lies about how Céüse is really soft and that climbing 8a here is like climbing 7b+ at the wall… Now I am scared to ever see him again otherwise he might kill me :P

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1009814_10151761685679802_1670113497_n.jpg)

As well as Michelle, Alexander and Mike, we met up with some more friends at the campsite. The always-friendly German beast, Felix Neumarker was one of the first to arrive. I last saw Felix in France end of last year but only very briefly, and we had been climbing together a lot the previous Spring. Since then he had climbed numerous 9a’s and one 9a+, La Rambla, which he told me is only 8c and isn’t so hard… Yes… Just don’t tell Dani Andrada that… Also climbing with us for a week was young Alex Waterhouse and Billy Ridal, both friends of Williams’ and mine from the national competitions.

We also made plenty of new friends of course as we always do on these trips, in particular we met a group of British climbers, two of which (Sam and Darren) study at Aberdeen university, not forgetting of course Jay and Mark. It was good to hang out with these guys for the majority of our trip as they certainly livened up our days.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/969938_10152466139470656_1555792960_n.jpg)Sam and Darren at their camping spot - Note: Hammock is a good idea!!!

Anyway, the second week of climbing felt a lot better than the first. I started the week by ticking of a few routes I have always wanted to try but never got round to before. First on the hit list was “Femme Blanche” (8a+). I fell after the crux at the top on my first attempt in the dark, then did the dirty tech slab onsight during my successful redpoint the day after… I also managed a very solid flash of a classic 8a/+ called “L’ami Couette”.

On the same day I did “L’ami Couette”, I also did an 8a+ called “Les Poinçonneur de lilas”. This was a route I had wanted to try for a number of years, as it looked amazing – and it didn’t disappoint either. It wasn’t too hard compared to other Céûse 8a+’s but perhaps the boulder mid-section could be hard for those breaking into the grade.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1074030_10151582537398178_890197595_o.jpg)Onsighting a big blue 8a! I spent about 15 minutes trying to figure out this bit :P

William and I both tried a good looking 8a+ in Berlin that I had never noticed before. The route was called “Ratman” and took a slightly overhung section of the wall on what seemed small but positive holds all the way up. Both of us had onsight goes on it on which we both fell on the same move at the crux around 4/5th’s of the way up. When we discovered actually how hard the individual moves where, we were blown away! This is probably the hardest 8a+ I have ever done, possibly in line with another 8a+ I climbed to the left of this called “Queue de Rat” which I did on my last day. “Ratman” climbs a long section of steady 7c/+ climbing on small but positive holds before you hit a gnarly V6 boulder with a not so good rest just before entering this. After you do the boulder problem there is still a little bit of techyness and some very droppable moves… Luckily neither of us dropped them and we both sent :P In all honesty, I have done 8b+ that have felt as hard as this and it would be 8b anywhere else for sure! Same goes for “Queue de Rat” and funnily enough my statement is backed up on 8a.nu by Ethan Pringle who says exactly the same :P

Big Ticks and Big Falls



Eventually, I managed to find something harder that I fancied projecting a little. The route was called “Slow Food” and was situated in probably the steepest sector of Céüse. Unfortunately in this sector there are only two climbs, “Slow Food” (8b+) and another absolute classic 8a called “Bourinator”. I was very lucky as Michelle had decided to start work on “Bourinator” which suited the two of us very well for belaying each other.

William had tried “Slow Food” briefly a few days previously and had told me it was really hard but that he was keen to get back on it. When I approached this route there was already a young American boy called Mirko (Caballero) trying it. It was impressive watching him make some good links on the lower section (crux) despite only being 12 years old! Also with him and his parents was young Ashima Shiraishi, the 12 year old girl who was climbing V13. I couldn’t wait to see her climb as I had heard so much about her :P I watched her walk up “Slow Food” (8b+) 2nd go with so much ease – it was nothing short of incredible. What was nice to see was her wonderful attitude towards climbing, she didn’t seem to have any ego despite being the best climber at the crag (by far) and was very happy to just go and climb anything that took her fancy, not jaded by grades or pressure in any way.

My initial attempts on “Slow Food” started out as bolt to bolts as the bottom section for me felt pretty nails, but quickly I discovered beta that improved the situation massively and on my 3rd attempt I stuck the first crux to my surprise and fell on the last hard move of the 2nd crux. This was huge for me because previously the route had felt totally nails and now I knew that if I had got through that 2nd crux I would have completed the route.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/968822_10151707556900279_1705918951_n.jpg)"Slow Food" (8b+) - the gnarly drop knee crux moves :D I loved this bit!!!

A couple of days later, William in amazing style at the end of the day did “Slow Food” for his first 8b+! At 14 years old, he matches the youngest Brit to climb 8b+ and is now the youngest Scot. A day later, I got back on the route and made it through both of the lower cruxes (only just) and was at the top of the final crux… I felt really steady and was moving to a huge jug when the right hand crimp shattered in my hands sending me hurtling off the wall! I didn’t really know what to do… I was hanging off the rope a little confused, I didn’t know if I should be angry or happy. I had made it through every crux and had essentially done the route, but the hold had broken stopping me from clipping the chains :P In my heart I know I did the route, but I hadn’t got the tick truthfully, so I decided I would try it again after a rest day. Unfortunately the rain came and I never got a chance to get back on it… Oh well L I will be back soon to clip those chains :D

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1005646_10151707557920279_553080263_n.jpg)

I got into a habit of taking the jump from the top of “Slow Food” whenever I got to the chains. The fall is huge but very safe and so was good fun even if you didn’t do the route – it was always my excuse to go to the top just so I could take the jump. I then convinced Michelle, William and Alex (Waterhouse) to take the fall when they got to the end of either “Slow Food” or “Bourinator”.

 

As well as jumps from the top of routes, a popular rest day activity was jumping into the lake from a 10m high concrete tower. The hard part for me wasn’t the height, more the cold water… I improved at this rapidly however, going from not wanting to jump in at all, to jumping in multiple times in the sun, then one day suffered a terrible dare where I risked losing an eyebrow unless I jumped in at night on a particularly foggy evening… trust me, it felt a little like the start of a horror movie :P Luckily I had a partner in crime, Jay, who was the darer but agreed to do it with me… Thanks man!

 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/75804_10152466138305656_714167018_n.jpg)

More friends arrive...

We were coming to our final week in Céüse and more friends were arriving from all over making it much harder as the days towards our departure loomed ever closer. Alex Barrows (now made famous by his cheating knees) joined us as well as Tom Richmond (current Ednburgh local) and Andre Hedger (my biggest fan - but apparently he's more impressed by Alex's knees nowadays).

Impressively on one of the first few days of arrival, Andre ticked "Seurs Froides" (8a+), and I have heard via text that he has also made quick ascents of "Encore" (8a+) and "Femme Blanche" (8a+). Good Effort!

Also, Alex I have heard has made an impressive flash ascent of "Encore" (8a+) since I left - but he still fell on a 7c+ onsight attempt at the start of the trip so it kind of evens things out considerably... ;)

And Michelle made a very impressive redpoint of the super classic 8a "Bourinator", probably the burliest 8a I have ever tried and one of the few 8a routes I think I am scared of trying again. I did it again this year and it felt just as hard as it did when I first climbed it years ago! BEAST!

 

Coming to an End

As the trip was closing to a finish, I started to realize just how much I love Céüse… I can’t quite place why exactly I love this place so much… its not just one thing, it’s a mixture. I have been here five times now:

$1.     Céüse 2007 – with Rich Simpson when I was 17 (5 Weeks)

$2.     Céüse 2008 – with Andy when I was 18 (5 Weeks)

$3.     Céüse 2010 – with Natalie when I was 20 (10 Days)

$4.     Céüse 2011 – with Natalie when I was 21 (4 Weeks)

$5.     Céüse 2013 – with Andy and William now I am 23 (4 Weeks)

That equates to around 20 weeks living in Céüse altogether… I guess I have been there so much that it has literally become a home away from home of sorts. Whenever I return, I feel like I am coming back to a place I am comfortable in, not like going on holiday, like going to my other home :P One of the best things about this home however is that it has the best crag on earth 1 hours walk from my tent… That and the scene at base camp is unlike anything I have ever experienced at any climbing destination… The Céüse experience truly is one of a kind…

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1077060_10151582542678178_1843184182_o.jpg)The crew...





Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Coaching Awards
Post by: comPiler on October 01, 2013, 01:03:30 am
Coaching Awards (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/coaching/coaching-awards.html)
30 September 2013, 5:51 pm

It's been a long time coming...

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/0.jpg)Climbing Coaching is finally being recognised as a real pathway for Climbing Instructors/Coaches and those involved in the industry to take if they wish to improve their coaching skills. Although I can't say I have been around long enough to witness the days when professional coaching in climbing didn't even exist, I have been working as a coach for long enough that I can see a massive requirement to provide those working at walls with the necessary skills to coach more effectively all aspects of a climbers performance.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1.jpg)MANCHESTAAA!!!!This week I travelled down to Manchester to take part in the first Providers Induction Meet for the new MTA Coaching Awards. A few weeks previously I had applied to become a provider for the new course and luckily they had picked me amongst 18 others to become the first providers of the course. I was honoured to be  selected amongst such a high number of very qualfied and experienced coaches but at the same time terrified to be the youngest at the table with the least number of years exerience working in the industry. It's nice to read through Al Halewoods blog and see that he was feeling the same nerves as me. I know that together, the 19 of us will make a fantastic start to this new coaching award.

For two days we were presented with the new scheme by Martin Chester who has been working hard at getting this program off the ground and into the hands of us new providers. He organised the 2 days of presentations, practical workshops and lectures at the end of which I felt buzzing with anticipation to make these courses a success.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/2.jpg)Presentations

To give a little bit of understanding behind what this new award is, there is basically three tears (two of which are going to be available soon and one of which is geared for next Spring).

The idea behind the three levels is that coaches can gain experience relative to the type of people they will be working with. All Climbing coaches and instructors start working with beginner level climbers, so at this stage it is ideal to attend the Foundation Coach Award. You will learn all about the techniques and skills required to coach climbers just starting or who are stil learning the fundamental techniques and skills.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/5.jpg)Rob giving a bit of schpiel

The development coach looks at developing climbers over the course of a longer period of time and delves more into advanced skill acquisition and coaching processes - how do we improve the standards of any climber wantint to improve over time and how do the needs and requirements of beginners and advance level climbers change? The performance coach will be geared at high performance orientated coaching and will incorporate more advanced skills yet again.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/6.jpg)Manchester from Charlie's flat

All I can say is that I am psyched to get these awards going ahead and I am going to be putting my head down to getting the first dates for the courses advertised. Stay tuned to hear more from me on the new Coaching Awards and when they are going to be available to book onto.

Robbie

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: BLCC's 2013
Post by: comPiler on October 07, 2013, 01:00:33 pm
BLCC's 2013 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/british-lead-climbing-championships/blcc-s-2013.html)
6 October 2013, 10:54 pm

I’ve just returned from what I can safely say was a very successful BLCC for Scottish climbers. The British Lead Climbing Championships (BLCC) is the National competition of the year for sport climbers hence why it attracts so many young talented athletes from all over the country. This year we had a strong team attending with kids in nearly every category from Youth C through to Youth A (unfortunately no Juniors).

Buz, Jessica and I headed down on the Friday night, stopping off in the Lakes before driving the rest of the way to Sheffield at 6:30am on Saturday morning because Buz was too lazy to go the full way the night before… typical! We did have a good time staying at the “Climber’s Club Hut” in Borrowdale which involved a bit of Monopoly action and an epic to get the fire started. Thankfully I am an expert in the lore of fire-craft and speedily sorted out the mess that Jess had created – Answer: a lot of firelighters!!!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1376492_10153280235800142_1075487294_n.jpg)Chilling out at Borrowdale Climbers Club Hut

On Saturday morning we were a bit late (nobody’s fault Neil “we need to stop for an hour for coffee” Busby…) but we didn’t miss much thankfully. William Bosi and David Miedzybrodski had already climbed but they had both done well. William’s hand slipped off an awkward move on the first route (a techy blue 7c), which I was told by one of the setters for the event, Mike Langley, that it could have happened to anybody, as that particular hold was really greasy. In fact it did happen to other climbers and proved to be a bit of a stopper move with only two others making it through that sequence both of whom got to the top. William was competing in Youth B with another Scot Angus Davidson. Angus managed to get to the same spot as William but fell off in a similar fashion. On their second qualifier, a much easier looking pink route, both boys topped pretty quickly but with a thankful “Phew!!!” from Angus as he clipped the chain from a slightly bent elbow!!! I was super impressed as always watching Jim Pope run up both routes – he really does have a talent for climbing walls :P

Not forgetting Ian Bownes who this was his first National Lead competition. Ian was rather nervous for this but gave it his all and made us all very proud with an 11th place – his forte is Speed but unfortunately I never got to watch them on the Sunday. I heard it went well for the whole Speed Team and a big congratulations to Alexander Bosi who is the 2013 British Junior Speed Champion!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1275434_533367053410724_1972689429_o.jpg)Good Effort Lads!

In Youth C boys, David Miedzybrodski did really well to make it high on his first qualifier and this pushed him far up the chain in the strong Youth C category for his first climb. The youth C category is probably one of the most competitive categories with seven boys who are almost all as good as each other or not far of it. Also from Scotland, Rory Cargill managed an impressive top of the same route and then another top on his second qualifier. David unfortunately got a little stuck in the final few moves off his second route, struggling to clip and then deciding after three attempts at it, just to move on to the next hold. A good thing that he went for it, as it was this that got him in joint 6th place for the final! David was placed 7th but we appealed to the judges and managed to get him bumped up when it was made apparent that he had scored the same as the climber in 6th place on both routes – good thing we appealed!

In Youth C girls we only had Rhiannon Freirich representing Scotland. Rhiannon climbed well achieving a top on her first route and making 8th place overall! I will be climbing with Rhiannon in Kalymnos for the next 2 weeks so stay tuned to hear of what she gets up to out there :)

In Youth B Girls we had Keira Farmer, Kirsten Gray, Rebecca Kinghorn and Eilidh Vas Payne from Scotland. All of them are very experienced competition climbers with Rebecca Kinghorn currently the newest member of the GB Team and who made finals in her last European Cup. I know how hard all these girls have been training so it was exciting to see them all put it to the test in the competitive arena. The first route looked OK with most of the girls not find it too bad with quite a few tops and the rest all getting quite high. The second qualifier however was shared with the Youth C boys (the blue that was their first qualifier) and this wasn’t so straightforward. Everyone found this second route a huge challenge with nobody making it look easy whatsoever. The route was vertical with one small overhang lip to pull at the start that spat off a lot of climbers in all categories climbing it. All the way to the top there was hideously sustained sequences on small crimpy holds and bad feet – to get high on this route you needed rock solid determination and unwavering focus. I was immensely proud of Kirsten Gray’s performance on this – she never looked like she lost her focus on any part of the route and she found good body positions on practically every move, in short I think it was one of her finest moments out of her whole competitive career. She has been training hard for this competition… I’d say all the hard work has paid of… Both Kirsten and Rebecca made it through to finals. Although Eilidh and Keira never quite made finals, I think they both climbed well and have hopefully learned a lot from their experience – competitions are tough, not everyone can stand on the podium or make the finals each time, but everyone can give it their all… I think they all did that. Keira and Eilidh came home with 13th and 7th place respectively and there is definite room to improve for the next big competition!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/563151_10153280978045142_2089866373_n.jpg)Viewing time after isolation...

Alone in Youth A Girls we had Rebekka Drummond who has come back with vengeance after dealing with injury for the last year. I have been coaching Rebekka recently to build up her overall endurance and to mentally be able to fight harder on on-sights of routes in competition that she might deem too hard for her to on-sight. This has obviously worked as she cruised her first qualifier and placed 3rd on her second qualifier matching a number of the GB Team Members in the category above her! The fight she put in on her second qualifier was amazing and I feel that she has come a long way since being injured – I’d even say she has come back stronger than before! It was obvious that this route was going to be hard and in fact too hard for everyone in the category, but it didn’t matter, what was important was being able to go for it and give 110% despite how hard it might feel.

So that was that for the Qualifiers, most of the Scottish contingent made it through to finals and those that didn’t climbed their socks off and are psyched for the next big competition.

On to the finals then…

The Youth C boys and Youth A Girls had the same route, an Orange 8a on the right hand-side of the comp wall. David was the first up and climbed the start really well until getting to one move where he probably should have forced a clip before moving on, but instead got a bit flustered and made an admirable attempt at making the following move, but unfortunately fell. Rory Cargill managed to make it to the same move but he grabbed the hold and took a wild swing off when his feet cut. Those two boys are not far off each other and it will be exciting stuff to watch them head to head in the Scottish Youth Climbing Championships (SYCC) in November. When David was off the wall he sat with me, Jess and Buz as we watched the final competitors. David and I were routing for young Alex Norton (the smallest Youth C competitor) as he is an amazing climber and fantastic to watch.

 

The route chosen as the Youth C boys final was quite thuggy and between slopey big holds, but despite this Alex climbed really well and made it to the same point as David before falling. Severin Domela was also on the cards as one of the top climbers but fell at the same point as David and Alex. I was lucky enough to get to spend some time coaching Severin at the recent National Academy in Sheffield - watch out for this guy, lots of potential!

Then Aiden Dunn and Kieran Forest made it a couple of moves further than the others and tied for first place with Aiden getting 1st on count back. Good effort to Kieran though as I know how hard he has been training, 2nd place is a fantastic achievement – I should know as I was 2nd in the same event last year! :P

Youth B girls was another show stopper with the first competitor blitzing her way from 6th place to 1st place in an awesome performance that made the whole Centre erupt in applause for her. Rebecca Kinghorn made a route reading error and got stuck mid-way through the crux. She wasn’t the only girl to do this but it just goes to show that route reading still affects the very best competitors. It was a true display of just how strong and fit Rebecca is though when she hung around the crux for longer than anyonelse, attempted to use the same foothold multiple times and even pulled on it before losing her grip and falling off - this still kept her at a solid 4th place. Kirsten Gray made it to 5th place in yet another gripping performance and unfortunately lost potentially a higher placed position due to misreading the sequence. I think though that for sure the best climber of the day won the Youth B girls with a flawless climb by Emily Allen.

In Youth B boys William came out as one of the first climbers having dropped his 2nd qualifier lower than expected, however, he totally dominated the route making it look easier than everyone including the Canadian who won the Junior Boys Category and finished with the highest position in the Youth B category – another 1st place for Bosi. Angus Davidson who is climbing really strong at the moment did very well making it just shy of Bosi’s high point but got confused in the roof and pumped out for taking too long to make a decision… more roof sequence reading for you mister! Angus finished in a well-deserved 4th place.

And finally, in Youth A girls, Rebekah Drummond gave a strong performance on her final maintaining her 3rd place position behind Tara Hayes and Molly Thompson-Smith.

Stanage – Grit for a day…



On the Sunday we decided to make the best of the good weather and we headed to Stanage to climb on the grit. I was keen to have a good day out with friends so I spoke to Chris Forest (father of Kieran in Youth C) and his family and we arranged to meet up with them at Stanage for a days trad climbing and bouldering. Stanage is such an awe inspiring crag and I have never spent more than an hour there before, I felt it was really worth it to go and experience the crag that has dominated the lives of so many Peak District climbers. Kieran, David, Chris and I all climbed the mega classic “Overhanging Buttress Direct” HVS, a classic roof climb on mega slopey jugs as well as another easier crack climb. David, Kieran and I also spent much of the day finding little boulders to climb about on and come the end of the day we made it along to Stanage Plantation to have play on the Deliverance boulder. We all tried the 5+ and 6b arête, I did both of them, Kieran did the 6b but felt the 5+ was a bit too reachy and David got to the final move of both of them but wasn’t quite confident enough to go for that last committing move… I felt pretty much the same but had an extra couple of feet at my disposal so making the final move was a little less scary :P

At the end of the day we were all satisfied with a good weekends worth of climbing. I am now sitting on the train writing this blog and looking forward to tomorrow when I will be boarding a plane flying off to Kalymnos – excited doesn’t do it justice!

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Kalymnos 2013
Post by: comPiler on October 29, 2013, 12:00:58 am
Kalymnos 2013 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/youth-coaching/kalymnos-2013.html)
26 October 2013, 11:21 pm

I have just returned from an epic trip to Kalymnos! It was a bit of a mixed bag of climbing coaching and a bit of personal climbing at the end, but hey, its all good :) I was in one of the most beautiful climbing destinations on the planet with good friends and always in the sun - living the good life!

Coaching Week

The coaching week was aimed at kids who are already experienced climbers, keen to develop their climbing skills further and also to transfer their indoor training to outdoors. All of those attending compete at regional, national or international level, and I feel that it's important for them to have other focusses outside the competition and climbing gym scene. Climbing trips outdoors offer a different challenge free from the same types of pressures that are often put on the kids at competitions.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1383582_10202327384929704_594998720_n.jpg)During the week my aim was to get all the kids to climb as much as possible, to tick a few harder routes and to have lots and lots of fun. Needless to say everyone gained a lot from the trip!

On the first day, despite everyone being tired from travelling, some of which had spent numerous nights sleeping in other cities and countries before arriving on Kalymnos, they all got stuck into climbing. I was eager to get everyone moving on rock ASAP so there was no wasted time. As any experienced climber knows, it takes time to assimilate to climbing on rock, especially if you climb mostly indoors, so you've got to make the most of your time when you get the chance to get out on rock.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1392683_238690012958676_2099439334_n.jpg)David sending "Spartacus" (7b+) on his 2nd try

As the trip commenced everyone looked like they were slowly getting to grips with the features, trusting their feet on rock (especially smeary feet) and even trusting their hands on rock, something which is often overlooked (you need to relax on the holds and not over grip). The one thing most people struggled with was the tufas, a feature only found on Limestone that requires a very unique technical style. The technique required to climb on tufas is difficult to acquire quickly and it requires complete confidence and trust in your body movement. Initially this is really difficult to do, especially if you are relatively inexperienced in rock climbing as you need to trust the small slopey features of the tufa for both your feet and your hands. The one person I felt really developed a good style on tufas during this trip was Rhiannon - initially she was very wary of these features but as the trip went on she looked more and more comfortable until eventually she was onsighting routes up to 7a+ using tufas! She made a very impressive onsight ascent of "Les Amazones" (6c), 2nd go on another classic tufa 7a and flashed the tricky 7a+ "Nickel"! All of these routes required good tufa technique to climb - well done Rhiannon!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1393880_240325939461750_101502940_n.jpg)Kirsten Gray climbing IVI (7a+)There was a few issues with confidence pushing on rock, especially on the sharp end. To some extent everyone had an issue with this, but it's only natural and I challenge anyone to say they have never been scared whilst climbing - I still get a little nervous... Especially when taking 20m lobs off the top of the Grande Grotte! What was really good to see was everyone breaking through the mental barriers throughout the trip - of course it wasn't easy and sometimes required more pushing from me (and Sam - you don't want to be saying "take" when he's belaying, he doesn't even know what it means!). I guess what everyone has to remember is that the transfer from indoors to rock isn't just technical, it's also mental. The environment is completely different and everyone will have a transitional period, sometimes it's longer for one than the other... I definitely noticed the change in environment when I went from outdoor sport to outdoor multipitch. Climbing 8b+ from a hanging belay is terrifying... 7a Verdon slabs on multipitch are no less scary!

As the trip commenced everyone was getting a bit more into the style. Kirsten Gray was climbing very well after a shaky start getting her first 7a flash on rock followed closely by her first 7b+ then her first 7a+ (in that order). The 7b+ was no slouch at the grade either as it was the uber classic "Spartacus". The 7a+ "IVI" she should have flashed but got a little nervous during a runout after the crux. After what seemed like an hour of shouting encouragement to press on she down climbed and sat on the rope... When I lowered her she looked at me and said,

"Why did you let me down! You should have pushed me harder!"



Of course... It's my fault :P Good to see though that some kids like being pushed...

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1400746_595045637219164_2129914460_o.jpg)Rosie on the super classic 6b "Pterodactyl"Errin and Rosie were mostly top roping during the trip, however, towards the end of the trip Errin took to leading a few routes and even managed a 6b+ on lead which was a massive step from last years trip to Siurana where the hardest top rope she did was 6a+. Adding to that, at the beginning of the week she was struggling with some 6a's, by the end of the week she had climbed several 6c's (one of them Onsight) and even managed a 7a Onsight! If you can Onsight 7a as your hardest grade then there is loads more potential there! Rosie climbed a tonne of routes from f4 through to f6b and certainly got in the mileage - I think the best part of Rosie's trip was taking the big swing at Jurassic on our final day :P

I was massively impressed with David Miedzybrodski in Kalymnos in terms of his approach to ticking routes. He is very calculated most of the time, taking the time to work sequences after he's given the Onsight the best possible attempt. He came close to 4 or 5 x 7b+ Onsight/Flashes and did all of them on his 2nd attempt. He even redpointed the massive enduro-fest "Priapos" (7c) on his second attempt. He made every 7b he climbed easily Onsight including "Gladiator" and "Lulu in the Sky" with the exception of "Aurora" at Kalydna.

This was interesting as I found "Aurora" pretty steady, however, when I climbed it I knew David would struggle... It has a very technical tufa section and is very exposed with a bouldery crux right at the end. Needless to say David got to the top, but after a lot of falls throughout the tufa and in the final crux sequence - but this was all for the good of him and I reckon he gained more knowledge on his weaknesses and areas he can improve upon on this route than any other! Kids if your reading this - it's important to be all round when your young especially, try and get in as many different styles as possible and work routes that you genuinely find hard and challenging as opposed to routes that suit you. If you don't work weaknesses like this it will limit what you are able to climb when you are older.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1377989_238690186291992_205277335_n.jpg)Spartacus sector - home to classics such as "Daniboy" (8a) and "Spartacus" (7b+) - I climbed Daniboy three times this trip just because...

So altogether it was a great week of coaching for the kids, everyone achieved something grade orientated, developed new skills and challenged themselves beyond their comfort zones - I think these courses are invaluable for the development of aspiring climbers and I'm looking forward to running more in the future.

It has to be noted as well that there were four other young scots also out in Kalymnos at the same time who weren't part of the coaching trip. Rory Cargill, Rebecca Kinghorn, Scott Donaldson and Max Milne were also enjoying the wonders of Kalymnos. Rory managed his first 8a "Fun de Chuchunne" a few days ago and Rebecca redpointed the very tough "Daniboy" (8a) making her the 2nd Scottish female to redpoint the grade (and the youngest). Max I have been told by my Aussie friends has been ripping up Odyssey sector and acting as bolt gun for them on occasion :P Good work Max!

In the evenings we would meet up as a larger group and eat out together - any restaurant that suffered us that night would literally come to a standstill as there was around 30+ scots in total half of which were kids between 2 and 16 years old! MADNESS!!!

Climbing Time Day 1 After the coaching week ended, I spent a few days climbing with some good Australian friends of mine, Lee and Sam Cujes. I first met Lee and Sam 2 years ago on a trip to Kalymnos where we spent a good few weeks climbing lots and laughing at our ridiculous Scottish and Australian accents... They find my habit of saying "down a wee bit" when stipulating to be "lowered down a little lower" absolutely hilarious... much to both our amusement :P

I also had the pleasure of making some new friends from Australia, Lucy Ellis, Tracie Hua, Erik Smits, Cathy De Vaus and Adam Demmert.

On my first days climbing I went to Galatiani Cave with Sam and Rhiannon for their last day on the island. I had always wanted to go to Galatiani as I had heard there was a number of good 8a's and 8a+ there to try and onsight. Gaz Parry had satisfied my curiosity of the place and told me that the routes were actually all excellent if a little soft in the grade. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1391539_10153294618040142_1936936199_n.jpg)

When we arrived, I warmed up on the first part of the 8a+ "Seur D'hommes" which was given 7a and when I got to the chains, I just continued going for the 8a+. Immediately after the chains was a tricky couple of moves followed by a good knee bar rest. After this it was steady all the way and before I knew it I had succesfully onsighted the 8a+. Not a bad warm up :P

Rhiannon and Sam both did the 7a to the left, an awesome looking route that I unfortunately missed out and then I managed to onsight both the other 8a's at the crag, "Debout Le Morts" and "Zero Chichon". Sam finished off with a 7b and trying a 7c which he got high on the onsight whilst placing clips, then I finished off with the same 7c onsight "Gegoune" which I think might be the best 7c I have ever done!





Day 2 On Day 2, I met up with another very good friend of mine Andre Hedger. It was good to catch up with Andre again on a trip. We met up in Ceuse briefly this year and saw each other at the BLCC's but apart from that I haven't seen much of him.

I dragged Andre to Telendos as I wanted to do an 8b there called "Glaros". "Glaros" ?is situated at an amazing crag called Glaros and takes the steepest line through the central part of the crag. The holds are pretty much all positive and includes only one hard move that I found a little tricky.

The climbing on it involves a lower sustaine dsection of climbing that probably equates to around 8a level in difficulty up until a singularly hard move around 3/4 of the way up the climb. The move in itself isn't hard on it's own, just low percentage as it requires good accuracy at catching a gaston sloper in a crack which you can't see from a sloping pinch in a bunched up position... I fell from this move twice before catching it and doing the route to the top!

Andre had a good day managing to tick 7c+ on his first day on Kalymnos. The 7c+ was a particularly tricky one called "Breakfast on Pluto". Interesting to note that the way Andre did it was really hard and could be 8a, whereas I have since spoken to others who actually missed out the crux of the route by traversing out right. Makes sense to do this as it follows the line of weakness, we just didn't know the holds went out there so we did a stupid bouldery move instead :P

On the way back we opted for a spot of training on the boat...

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1383289_10153335001855142_1904106533_n.jpg)

Day 3 On my third day I went to Arhi sector in the morning and Secret Garden in the afternoon with Lee, Sam, Andre and Eric. I was super keen to try and onsight the 8a+ classoc "Ne pas toucher a ma bite" but failed just shy of the chains... On my 2nd go I fell of the 7b+ start because I'm an idiot and didn't look at the sequence... So I lowered and then did it straight away :P Without a doubt the best 8a+ I have done on Kalymnos... so nobody do it before it becomes as polished as "Angelica", the other 8a at the crag which is basically a marble wall now...

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1375803_10153300662945142_822967834_n.jpg)Greeces greatest invention...Lee and Andre both had goes on "Angelica" but unfortunately didn't get it, although Andre's onsight was inspirational, he fought basically the entire way and fell off at the final crux... Close! Later on in the trip I heard he onsighted another 8a :D Good effort dude!

Later on in the afternoon we went to a sector I had not yet visited. It's name is Secret Garden and many of you who have been to kalymnos will probably have visited this place. In all honesty, I didn't expect much as I was unsure how many more great crags can be found on the island... but I was blown away by the sheer quality of pretty much all the climbing here. Maybe a bit of an overstatement as the low 6's on the left looked rubbish... but everything right of them was gold! I climbed an epic 7c+ onsight on the left side called "Savina" followed by an 8a+ that I almost onsigted then did 2nd go called "Flood Gates". This was a great route but the crux had to be the 6c first pitch which I thought was absolutely nails!

Day 4 On my final days climbing in Kalymnos, we went back to Secret Garden. Sam had a project 6c there on the left which she was eager to finish off and I was really keen to see her complete it. I put the clips in for her and even found a cheeky knee bar rest before the crux. She had been trying the route the past day with Eric but had fallen off the crux move, a hard lock to a bad sidepull hold. The difficulty in the move is the requirement to be accurate when your tired especially when the hold is quite blind and round a corner. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1403197_10151734947785896_553503052_o.jpg)Tracie being a hero on "Kalydiva" (7c)

On her redpoint attempt she made it to the knee bar rest without a hitch and managed to get slotted into the resting positition. The shake out seemed to do the job as she managed to completely static the crux and before long was mantling out on top, but suddenly she was stuck and sturggling a little on the top out... everyone on the bottom was watching with bated breath unsure if she would make it... luckily she pulled it out and continued upwards to the chain :D Effort!

I warmed up that day on a 7c on the right called "Kaly Diva" which had super nice moves if a little crimpy and grim for the skin. I met a Polish couple who climb at Ratho trying the same route which was a funny coincidence as well.

After the 7c I tried to onsight an 8a to the left called "Narcissus" which I only missed out on the onsight by one move!!! The top crux proved to be really hard actually and it took me a bit of time to figure it out. Thankfully I did it 2nd go despite forgetting the sequence and doing it completely different anyway :P

After that I went over to try a 7c+ called "Syrtaki Lessons". The day before I met a Finnish girl called Roosa Huhtikorpi and watched her go for an amazing onsight attempt on it. She powered throgh what was definitely the crux but unfortunately messed up a little higher - onsighting is a tough game! She quickly despatched it afterwards. I hadn't really taken anything from watching her attempt as I was preparing myself for the 8a+ at the time so I still had an onsight attempt at "Syrtaki Lessons". In the end, I was very tired after having had a really hard 4 days climbing, I did the lower crux fine which was supposed to be the crux but I made the same mistake as Roosa and climbed onto some slopers out right. I had to hang them for quite a while until I decided that hanging about was not helping me and I opted for mantling the slopers with the help of the tufa on the left... I later found out this was a stupid idea but thankfully I managed to pull it off and I made it to the chains for another 7c+ onsight :D

The Future And that pretty much concludes my Kalymnos 2013 trip... I am eager to get back next year, I really want to get stuck into projecting some of the harder routes here and I think I need longer than 4 days dedicated to this, so I am going to have to put some time aside for this :P

What now? Well, I have a very busy week ahead of me... I am setting in Denmark for a competition all next week and after that I am heading to Terradets in Catalunya! I am really psyched about this trip as I have not been to les bruixes sector before and it looks absolutely mega there :D A lot of routes in the 7c-8b region, perfect for onsighting!!! I am going on a mission for onsighting, lets see what happens...

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1392059_10153342345140142_702544066_n.jpg)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: TCA Setting (White Circuit)
Post by: comPiler on October 29, 2013, 12:01:02 am
TCA Setting (White Circuit) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/general/tca-setting-white-circuit.html)
27 October 2013, 11:10 pm

A few months ago I was asked by Rob Sutton (manager of TCA Glasgow) if I would set one round of the White circuit. The white circuit is the TCA's hardest with problems ranging from F7A to F8A+ historically. Of course I took up the opportunity as I always love setting at TCA and it would be good to put myself to the test and see if I could come up with some hard blocs for the west coast boulderers to get their meat hooks stuck into :D

A few days before I was due to come home from Kalymnos I noticed in my diary that I was due to be setting that very week! I had kind of forgotten about it but was suddenly super psyched for it and had loads of inspirsation having just come back from an amazing sport climbing trip!

Long story short I set a whole bunch of new problems that should hopefully be enjoyed by all. Tom Bolger even joined in and set a few with me so there is a real mix of styles. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1375976_10153348511230142_541393692_n.jpg)Cave Right F7C+?

I think the grade range is from F7A to F7C+ in my set but I am sure Rob and Alan will also add a few more of their own to the set.

I am particularly proud of my three hardest problems which I reckon to be around F7C/7C+. These are the "Cave Central", "Cave Right" (Slopers) and "The Cobra Roof". The Cobra Roof is the easiest of the three probably in the 7C mark and the other two are maybe 7C+, but I am awaiting confirmation on this from Adam Lincoln - TCA's official bloc grader :P

Get down to TCA guys and check them out for me :) If anyone can flash the dyno - Hi5

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Route Setting in Denmark
Post by: comPiler on November 10, 2013, 06:00:33 pm
Route Setting in Denmark (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/route-setting/route-setting-in-denmark.html)
10 November 2013, 11:49 am

 

After getting back from Kalymnos I only had a week before I was due to be setting off again, this time to somewhere a little less mountainous than my usual destinations. I was in fact heading off to Denmark! Whilst out in Kalymnos, a Danish friend invited me to set for a competition in a small town called Skælør. Seeing this as a great opportunity to do some fun competition route setting and visit a new place I happily accepted. In the meantime however I was desperate to get some training in as I had only 2 weeks before I was due to be in Terradets (Spain) sport climbing.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/photo_1-1.JPG)Flying in class...

The night I got back from Kalymnos, I organised a set of endurance sessions that would hopefully give me a little bit of a boost before Spain – obviously not the best preparationbut something is better than nothing. Amazingly I felt really fit despite not having climbed much in the way of harder routes in Kalymnos, I did however feel like I was climbing quite well, moving far more efficient and much more self aware of body position and balance. This goes to show just how much of a difference climbing on rock does for your technique! I need to live somewhere where there is amazing sport climbing surrounding me... I think it's the gap that's missing right now... Hmmm... One can dream :P(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/photo_2-1.JPG)Sunset on the way to Copenhagen

I had a few good sessions with Mike Halcrow and one with Adam Lincoln. By the end of the week I was feeling really fit and even managed to lap 8a+ three times in a row at Ratho before leaving for Denmark. I don't think I'm pulling as hard as I ever have by any means, but I'm definitely not unfit which means hopefully I should be feeling relatively good for osnighting and trying lots of easier routes in the 7c-8a+ range. I’m in Terradets now as I write this blog (the first moment I have had any spare time to do this) and I can tell you that having the extra endurance definitely has helped for onsighting.

Before leaving I also managed to squeeze in some great sessions with some of the kids. It was great to see Lisa climbing so well (make sure you get in your fall practice!), Connor looking really fit on the comp wall, David who is always looking strong and a last session with William which turned out to be a queuing session as we waited to get on routes because half of ratho had been shut due to the roof! Hope your all training hard!!! I was happy to hear that everyone did really well at the weekends Scottish Youth Championships :D Good Effort Guys!!!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1457534_10153389713420142_367966236_n.jpg)License to drill... Thanks Yann

The next day, off to Copenhagen I flew. I had an early flight to London then a connection to Copenhagen from Gatwick. What a pain in the butt easyjet is though; they won't connect your haul baggage through to your final destination for some bizarre reason! So I have to check in my baggage twice... Annoying!!!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/photo_4.JPG)Let's get stuck in...

I was greeted at Copenhagen Airport by Jacob Hasselbach, one of the board members for Crux Climbing Club (the wall I was setting at). Interesting fact: in Denmark there are only one or two commercial/privately run climbing walls, the rest are all owned and operated by climbing/mountaineering clubs on a completely voluntary basis. It was really inspiring to see how the community of climbers at the wall all band together to make the centre as good as possible. When I arrived at the centre that night, there was about 15 guys and girls all stripping the walls, cleaning the place up and sorting out the holds and cherry pickers for me for the week I was setting. None of them were getting paid, it's just because they have a great community spirit and ethic to help others out.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1425746_10153389717200142_278579346_n.jpg)When you've set for days on end... the holds begin to talk to you...

The first day setting was on the Wednesday. There was a bit of an issue with the cherry pickers - because of the heavy winds that hit both Denmark and the UK, people from all over were in desperate need of them for repairs to buildings so securing our own cherry picker suddenly became a lot more difficult. For half a day I simply set off the ladder the bottom section of most of the routes and then at 4pm finally we had use of one cherry picker.

For the remaining two days of setting we had two cherry pickers. This made the setting a lot more fun, less physically taxing and the creativeness on routes was limited only by our imagination. I was happy to be joined by two Danish climbers (not competing), Thomas Blaabjerg and Andreas Fink Simonsen as assistant setters. Thomas is one of the strongest Danish climbers and competitors having climbed 8b and made finals in the European Youth Cup this year in Edinburgh, however he had a nasty fall and broke his ankle so is currently still recovering from that. He could set from a cherry picker though :P

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1379435_10153389718615142_1992661087_n.jpg)The Routesetting Team - Top Left (Me), Top Right (Thomas), Bottom Left (Andreas), Bottom Right (Dany the Danish Viking)We spent Thursday and Friday night setting well into the early hours of the morning to make sure the routes were the best they could be and that they would do the job of splitting the field. By the end of the week we had a selection of 21 routes for qualifiers and finals - all of them great fun to climb on but also would hopefully split the field of competitors as well.

Come Saturday morning (an hour after I had gone to bed), Jacob shows up and says that the event is to start at 10:30 and the competitors will be arriving shortly. As you can imagine I was pretty exhausted, but this didn't restrain my enthusiasm to see our creations being attempted by the competitors.

The qualifiers were exciting to watch with such a massive range of ages and abilities competing together. The routes I had set would fit any size and shouldn’t favour one person over another, but there was a lot of different styles so the best all-rounder would do well in the qualifiers.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/photo_5.JPG)My baby blue - never broke down once... Scottish Cherry Picker Companies take note of this!

After the qualifiers finished, the finalists were called out and isolation began. I was excited to watch my finals routes in action and see how they split the field. It’s always a tough one to set for a finals and even tougher when you are setting for a competition where you don’t really know the standard. I am told that the top Danish Men onsight 7c+ and the the top Danish woman onsight 7b+, but grades are so subjective and I don’t really know exactly how hard to set the comp for. If I was setting for a British National it would be much easier as I know the competition well as I am used to competing in them and most of the climbers who are in the top 10 I would have seen climb many times before.

 

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1397580_593418504058374_956869776_o.jpg)The second crux of the Woman's final - down climb a little, a powerful move then into the final quarter of the overhanging pillar!I really wanted to set some nice routes for the final that would test the very best but also allow everyone a fighting chance to get high on the route. I know from personal experience that it sucks when you fall off at the second clip on your final, so I like to set some nicer, friendlier starts which gave everyone a friendlier competition experience.

My woman’s final route was probably 7b+ overall and the men’s was 7c+ (8a now as I changed it after the competition).
Mens
Womans

Half-Height
7a+
6c+

¾ Height
7b+
7b

Full Height
7c+
7b+

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1417575_593418397391718_1064029794_o.jpg)Woman's Final - Good rest on stalactite before half-way mark  

 

The woman’s competition was certainly an exciting finale. There were three girls in particular who made it high on the route, Nea Herforth, Primula Aalund and Liv Gyllenborg. Primula was the favourite from listening to everyone in the crowd as she has had the most success in international competitions. When I watched her climb, it certainly seemed like she was the “strongest” competitor there, she was confident throughout the whole length of the climb, but unfortunately it looked like she ran out of steam towards the end and there, just before the finish she fell. Liv was the first one on the climb and she made it very high indeed just falling short of making the final stretch – she actually timed out as she fell! Finally, Nea was the second up and scared me a bit when she made an impressive onsight of the route (with 9 seconds remaining). She never really looked like she was going to fall apart from right at the very end, but she made it and there was still Primula to go after her who was qualified in first place. Scary for the route setter when that happens but luckily qualifiers had split everyone evenly anyway, so regardless of what might have happened in the finals, the positions were already set.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1400603_593418727391685_265471780_o.jpg)Mikkel making good use of the knee bar rest half-way into the men's final - the last real recovery before the intimidating and pumpy finale!

The men’s finals were no less exciting. I was happy to see that two friends from previous climbing trips, Casper Helmark Anderson and Mikkel Hojgaard Larsen were both competing in the finals that day. The men’s competition was a bit of a mix with two young lads who were both international youth competitors and a selection of guys who maybe were not as experienced in competition, but were all experienced rock climbers. Mikkel and Casper both climb at least 8a on rock and have the experience of climbing on many different types of rock and styles of climb from all over the world – this helps a lot even indoors – but they are not experienced competition climbers which definitely does make a big difference in finals.

I had deliberately set the men’s final with a multitude of different styles - everything from a techy vertical corner to start with, to some powerful moves on good holds in the 20 degree overhang, into a roof with 360 degree spins and a knee bar into a stalactite and some powerful moves coming round the lip of a roof, then a tricky sustained finale that gradually got harder and pumpier the higher you got!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1008841_593418767391681_1484471220_o.jpg)Mikkel making his way to the high point in what would secure him his victory!In the final it was interesting to see the different styles of approach – Mikkel was fast and confident through the harder sections but definitely took his time and rested in the right places making good use of the knee bars. Frederick Thulstrup who was the favourite to win seemed to rush through the rests a little faster than others and I think this tired him more than necessary and ultimately drained him for the final section leaving him in 2nd place to Mikkel.

The competition was a massive success and the setting seemed to do the job – so I am happy J It’s also good to hear that since then the routes have been acting as fun training routes for all the locals at the climbing wall and hopefully I will be invited back again to set one day J

Thanks to everyone in Denmark who made my stay so fun and for making me feel so welcome :D

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1426735_10153389718235142_440569099_n.jpg)Me and the Champ!

I am now in Spain climbing in the world famous crag of Teradets – it’s awesome out here and I am having a fab time – blog and pictures to come soon!

 

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Terror-Debts (Terradets)
Post by: comPiler on November 21, 2013, 06:00:31 am
Terror-Debts (Terradets) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/spain/terror-debts-terradets.html)
20 November 2013, 10:20 pm

Woah! 2 weeks out here has gone fast!

I have just spent the last 2 weeks climbing in the mecca of Limestone that is Catlunya, Spain :D Of course that doesn’t really narrow it down much does it? I have been climbing at some mega impressive crags such as Terradets, Oliana and Santa Linya!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_1019.jpg)Lee Cujes on "Energia Positiva" (7c+) belayed by Sam Cujes

On arrival I didn’t really have a plan – I thought I would try and get some public transport to Terradets and work it out from there… I had heard there was a refugio and hopefully that would be open. Totally by chance however, a good friend (Henward Nind) was climbing at Siurana and I messaged him to say I would be climbing at Terradets if he fancied meeting up… Long story short, Henward let me stay in his van and we have been climbing together for the last 2 weeks!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0965.jpg)Me onsighting "Latido del Miedo" (8a)

One of the main reasons for coming out now was also to meet up with two really good friends from Australia, Sam and Lee Cujes. They were also in Kalymnos when I was there, but this is the end of their 2 month trip to Europe and it might be a while before they are back L Unfortunately, Lee suffered a tweak in his right shoulder on one of his final days climbing in Kalymnos and this seems to have stuck with him throughout his trip to France and Spain. Thankfully though things seem to have eased out a bit and he is back in crushing mode :D Sam and Lee have both been climbing at Terradets with me the last week and a half and it’s been awesome hanging out with them and occasionally invading their apartment at Villanova de la Sal (Tell everyone!!! It’s lush!!!).(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0954.jpg)Getting my trusty Shamans on for the next send :D

So we have been mainly at Terradets this trip however we’ve had half a day at Oliana and half a day at Santa Linya. Oliana was absolutely amazing, I can’t wait to go back there ASAP! I tried the mega classic 8b+ “Humildes Pa Casa” and was blown away by its awesomeness! It is without a doubt in my top 2 routes I have ever climbed… up there with “Tom et Je Ris” in Verdon. Unfortunately I didn’t get to actually send the route L we arrived at Oliana quite late and the next day it rained so I only got one attempt at the climb – I am planning on coming back one day with Lee and we will do this beast together!!! YEAH BOI!!!!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0120.jpg)Lee high on the redpoint send of "Energia Positiva" (7c+) - Fun Fact: He actually jumped on me after clipping the chains :P Two guys hanging of a static didn't feel so secure :P

Santa Linya again was only half a day and the crag was pretty damp. There had been a massive rain and pretty much everywhere was wet, so we headed to Santa Linya, the one place steep enough to stay dry. Unfortunately it was still very humid inside the cave L I tried an 8c called “Ingravids Serps” which I managed all of the moves bar one on my first try and it felt very do-able in a short time if conditions had been better. I then turned my attention onto an 8a+ in the cave called “Irak Attack”. I had planned an onsight attempt of the route but was weighing up whether or not I should given the bad conditions – but hey, if you wait around for good conditions you’ll never climb anything. I gave it a good burn and got high on the onsight but mis-read the sequence and fell off the crux… I lowered, untied and in a fit of annoyance/arrogance I tied straight back in and re-climbed it to the crux, this time not going wrong and sent it :P Felt like a return to my endurance training back home :P Probably not the best tactics ever and I apologise for my lack of discipline (especially to those I coach – please don’t do as I did here – it’s called being an idiot).(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0036.jpg)Sam looking way too strong on "Energia Positiva" (7c+) - LOOK AT THOSE GUNS!!!

When it wasn’t wet we’ve been climbing in Terradets. I have been here only once before but never actually climbed, just sat and watched :P This time round I was climbing almost everyday and have had such an amazing time :D I was blown away by the quality of every route here, nothing is bad, nothing is below par, it’s all awesome!

I heard so much about Terradets being the ultimate crag for onsighting in the 7c-8a range but I really had no idea until trying it out for myself. There is literally dozens of routes in that grade range all over the wall… there is one section where I’m sure there are at least 4 classic sustained 7c+’s in a row!

On my first day I onsighted the two classic 7c’s “Avant Match” and “Occident” followed by another 7c+/8a “Primea Linea” and then finished off by redpointing the extension of “Avant Match”, a bouldery 8a/+ which I fell on the final move on the onsight. After such a great first day, I didn’t really know what to expect for the rest of the trip. I feel really in my element when I am going about the wall ticking off routes I know I can do onsight or 2nd go, it’s one of my favourite styles of climbing because you can get so much climbing done J Even at the ends of the day when my fingers were tired and bleeding, I was still going for more on easier routes.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/IMG_0510.jpg)Me onsighting "Millenium" (8a) - I found the start quite tricky as you can see :P

I continued to tick off more routes in the 7c-8a range with some more classics such as:


Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: MCofS National Academy @ EICA: Ratho
Post by: comPiler on November 26, 2013, 12:01:18 am
MCofS National Academy @ EICA: Ratho (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/youth-events/mcofs-national-academy-eica-ratho.html)
25 November 2013, 9:18 pm

 

Only just back from Terradets (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/spain/terror-debts-terradets.html) and I was already straight back into work route-setting and coaching for an MCofS event on Saturday!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/photo-3-10.jpg)Routesetting whilst listening to some good tunes in freezing temps - LOVELY JUBBLY!The event in question has been on the calendar for a while now - it was set up to be a National Academy for young climbers who made finals in the YCS (or who were up to standard).

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/photo-1-13.jpg)Iain Sneddon (Master Bloc Setter Extrodinaire)The two days prior to the event, I routeset with Neill Busby and Jackie Sequeira. The original plan was to run the day using a fun style of setting called a Mangrove Tree (the idea being that you can create link ups of various routes to make easier or harder climbs depending on what you are after). Unfortunately, the wall best suited for this (the Hangar Wall) has been out of action due to roof repairs and as well as this, the conditions of the wall right now due to the high humidity levels and freezing cold temperature have made it very difficult to climb at the end of the centre (for some reason that end is a lot colder!).

So instead of having a Mangrove tree, we instead set a selection of routes to practice onsight skills on. All in all we set a panel of routes ranging in grade from 6b to 7c.

We also had one of EICA's main route setters and a fellow MCofS Coach/Setter Iain Sneddon on the boulders. He built some fantastic and intricate problems to challenge the kids.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/photo-4-9.jpg)It's a long way down... See if I can get Buz in the head with a hold :P

On the day of the event, I was taking the morning route session whilst Alan Cassidy took the morning boulder session. Alan Cassidy is the new GB Bouldering Team Coach and Representative in Scotland. As well as this he is the TCA Youth Team Coach in Glasgow and is a wicked strong climber having climbed as hard as 8c+ on routes and V12 on boulders! It was great to have Alan coaching with me for the day :)

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Alan_Glen_Nevis_by_Dan_Walker.jpg)Alan Cassidy @ Glen Nevis: Photo by Dan WalkerThe routes in the morning went well despite it being very cold, the kids managed to stay warm and there was some hard sending going down alongside some big falls :D It was briliant to see all the kids climbing so well after having been away so much recently. The funniest part of the morning was seeing all the kids get the no-hands rest on the massive black volume on the 7a up the steepest part of the wall :D

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/photo-3-8.jpg)Connor Moore making good use of the no hands rest on the Black route :P

 

After the morning session - we went for lunch and regathered in the lecture theatre for a slideshow with Alan. It was really interesting what Alan had put together for us - a slideshow all about how to be the best climber you can be specifically aimed at kids. The whole slideshow was geared at explaining to kids why training the way adults train is not the right thing to do and he also went into detail about how kids can get more from their sessions in terms of quality of learning movement skills. One of his main points (which I agree with wholeheartedly) is that too many people (and kids) focus on getting stronger (not better). They focus all their efforts on doing one arm pull ups, getting stronger fingers, stronger core, etc... when in actual fact they should spend more time looking to get better at climbing. With children this is even more relevant because during this stage of their life is when they are going to be learning how to move efficiently. It's so obvious when you see kids climbing down the wall that burn of all the adults - it's because they can learn how to move much more efficiently much quicker!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/photo-3-9.jpg)National Academy Plan + Routes set in background

After the slideshow we resumed with routes and had a great end to the session. The centre was getting colder and colder and I could see energy levels were getting less and less. After everyone had tried all the routes and the session was coming to a close, I got them all to do one final exercise - the famous "Austrian Laps" training that has become so popular these days :P

Then finally we had a brief discussion period on how the day went and we were finished. Another great event run at EICA by MCofS coaches. Thanks to Alan Cassidy and Jackie Sequeira for their help coaching and setting - it was much appreciated and I look forward to more events with these guys soon :D

Next up I am busy this week with a lot of coaching and this coming weekend I am running a Fundamentals 2 course with Alan Halewood at EICA :D Looking forward to it!

 

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Fundamentals, Coaching + Training
Post by: comPiler on December 09, 2013, 06:00:23 pm
Fundamentals, Coaching + Training (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/general/fundamentals-coaching-training.html)
9 December 2013, 1:40 pm

Since getting back from Spain it’s seemed like the world has just suddenly sped up double time! I’ve been doing a lot of coaching work at EICA as well as attending competitions, training and assisting in running a Fundamentals 2 Coaching course – all of this has made time fly by and before I knew anything it’s almost Christmas!!! I can’t believe it really! How can time go so fast? Too much fun I guess? As much as it’s been a fun period of work and climbing, it’s also been really tiring. I don’t remember a time when I’ve felt so lethargic and worn down from day to day life. With all the travelling, training, trips, coaching and route setting… all of it has just caught up on me and I am now only just experiencing the effects! I have to be really careful I don’t burn out!

 

Fundamentals Level 2 @ EICA

Last weekend I ran a Fundamentals 2 course with Alan Halewood (http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk) - for those of you who don’t know what this is, the Fundamentals are courses designed to give climbers, coaches, teachers and anyone really a better understanding of the fundamental techniques and skills climbers use on the wall. These courses can be used to better your own technique and understanding of climbing techniques as well as giving you the knowledge to better your ability as an instructor or coach.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281959404_01e4c8de8b.jpg)

We run these courses through the MCofS (Mountaineering Council of Scotland) and I recommend anyone with an interest in climbing or coaching to take part. It’s also a step towards the new Coaching Awards that have only just been introduced by MTA (Mountain Training Association).

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281863255_56ac80d909.jpg)Don't Ask :PSo Al Halewood was the lead on this course and I seconded him as his assistant (or trusty side-kick, whatever you want to call it :P ). It was a good day of learning for all those attending – I saw some new faces as well as a few old faces from the climbing community and some who have taken part in courses I have ran previously.

I am hoping to run more of these in the New Year as well as the up and coming Fundamentals 3 courses (Physical Training) which will be starting in Scotland early 2014!



Training + Climbing – It’s time to man up!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11282027243_8636121c76.jpg)My personal training has not been going as well as I had hoped recently with all the work and travelling… However, I have been inspired by my good friend Andres’ approach that you can read in his blog here (http://andrehedger.blogspot.co.uk)! He works a hell of a lot and still manages to train through this – he is a total machine! 6am sessions are what it’s all about :D

Andre works 56 hour weeks some weeks but still manages to maintain a good level in climbing onsighting up to 8a! He fits his training around his work and this for me is absolutely inspiring considering the volume of work and training he does. His work is also heavily involved as both a climbing performance coach for the White Spider Climbing Centre in London and as a teacher at a deaf school (LEGEND!).

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11282014493_617accfe66.jpg)I guess some could argue that this could be seen as too much and maybe a road to ruin... but I think if you balance it right and it works for you then there is no reason why you shouldn't be able to train hard and work hard! But i'd much prefer to train hard and play hard... and then forget about the work bit completely :P

I have been training a bit at Alien Rock 2 recently – “The” place in Edinburgh if you want to get strong at pulling hard on your arms and forgetting your feet :P Only Joking. Alien Rock 2 for me has always been a place that I go to get spanked! Usually what happens is I climb there for about 4-5 days and have an absolute nightmare, getting shut down on every problem and looking very out of my depth… then I get used to the style, recruit some fast twitch muscle fibres into action and suddenly I can do most of the problems there and I’m lapping the blocs that I could barely lift my butt of the ground during the first few days :P(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11282018513_1197d2b066.jpg)Angus doing the campus egyptian :P

The last session I had was the best one so far in the last 2 weeks. I came in and managed to climb several grade 8 problems (that could be anywhere from F7B to F8A) and managed to repeat a few 8’s I had climbed in previous sessions pretty easily J This is good for me and it was nice to feel progression. Hopefully I will be able to go out to Margalef and feel like I can at least do the crux moves on the 8c’s and 8c+’s I want to try :D

I’m off to Margalef in 10 days time with some good friends sport climbing over the Xmas and New year period. It’s going to be cold, but I am psyched for some sweet limestone sport climbing with good friends in beautiful Catalunya! I am travelling out with my pal Sam Williams and we will be staying at Tom Bolger (http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.co.uk) and Lynne Malcolms house. My first Christmas away from home… It’s gonna be even better when Ed (http://hamerboys.blogspot.co.uk), Sam (http://hamerboys.blogspot.co.uk), Ethan (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.co.uk), Andre and Adam are all out there! There will be a good crowd at the crag and it will keep motivations for trying hard high :)

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/tumblr_m2lz6181HK1qewqbro1_500.jpg)Anyone who knows me will know that I am not majorly into projecting routes. I usually get bored and de-motivated trying the same routes over and over again. However, I am at a stage right now where I feel in order to know what I need to do training wise to reach the next level in my climbing abilities I need to test myself on harder routes. That’s why this winter I am not going to put any pressure to actually climb anything :P I am going to go to Spain with the intention of trying 8c/8c+/9a routes… If I can get to the top of a few routes whilst I’m out there that would be amazing, but I am really keen just to learn what I need to do to attain the next level. 9a is the goal in the next 3-5 years, it’s definitely possible but I would like to get to the stage where I can get on one that suits me and at least feel comfortable trying to link sequences and not feel totally out of my depth. It’s going to be a lot of hard work, dedication and training… but it will be worth it :)

 

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: British Youth Open Sheffield 2013
Post by: comPiler on December 11, 2013, 12:00:27 am
British Youth Open Sheffield 2013 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/youth-opens/british-youth-open-sheffield-2013.html)
10 December 2013, 12:53 am

 

Last weekend was the British Youth Open - a competition open to anyone fitting the age categories Youth C to Junior (11-19 years old) and is one of the major competitions throughout the year where the GB Team Coaches select new team members.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281755456_19fbcd6e64.jpg)B-E-A-UTIFUL Morning Outside Casa Hamer

This weekends Youth Open was held at "The Foundry Climbing Centre" in Sheffield. "The Foundry" is one of the oldest climbing walls in the country opening in 1991 as the UK's first dedicated indoor climbing wall! So I was 1 year old when "The Foundry" opened :P The Foundry has a massive following of climbers and has stood as a beacon in the Sheffield climbing scene as one of the top facilities to train at.

I headed down for the competition on the Saturday. Originally I was meant to be going down on the Saturday to support the Scottish kids at the bouldering event, but unfortunately I couldn't make it, so I travelled down by train on Saturday evening and stayed with the bandits of Bakewell, Sam and Ed Hamer. Also staying with them was my good friend Andre Hedger - we had a good night chilling out in front of the fire and catching up - and watched a crazy movie with Liam Neeson called "Unknown" :P(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281710515_73fe2a2685.jpg)Pretty awesome looking comp wall at "The Foundry"

The day of the competition, Andre and I drove down in the morning to "The Foundry". Upon arriving we were instantly stopped in our tracks with just how busy the place was - there was hardly any room to move!

I was down as Scottish rep and coach, so I was generally looking out for all the Scottish kids attending the competition of which there were quite a large number of.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281750964_f00a3e022f.jpg)BUSY!!!!

When attending these competitions as a coach, I think it's important not to take on the role as a technical advisor as it does give an unfair advantage. It's OK to listen to the kids talking about the sequence and to give them encouragement and support, but obviously I don't go there with an aim to give them the hidden secrets of the routes. I think it's really important for kids to learn to compete on their own, to be self reliant and strong enough mentally to be able to deal with the pressures i.e. the ups, the downs and whatever might come their way... but what I do think is important is that they know the support is there - I am there to help and to give advice and encouragement when they really need it. Sometimes it's a thumbs up before they get on a climb... other times it's a pep talk... and most of the time, it's just a lot of shouting "ALLEZ VENGA A MUERTE GO FOR IT" when they are on the climb :P

Of course all the kids put in a massive amount of effort at the competition. Congratulations to all those who competed and who have been training hard for this event. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281739844_f9d751256b.jpg)Connor Moore giving it "A Muerte" on Qualifier 2!!!

In Youth C boys we only had one Scottish competitor, Connor Moore. Connor is one of the most psyched young climbers I have ever had the pleasure of coaching. He reminds me so much of me (not even as a kid, but now!), because he just loves climbing to bits and will do anything and everything to get better. Like me he also puts a lot of pressure on himself, but what I have learned is that pressure can be both a blessing and a curse depending on how you use it. On Connor's first climb of the day he unfortunately fell off at the 2nd clip where there was a really bouldery sequence. Nobodyelse in the category actually made it much further on the climb as it had some really tricky moves. On Connor's second qualifier he had completely chilled out and nerves had been lost. He went "A Muerte" on the climb and did fantastic achieveing 3rd place on the route! This shows just how much potential he has - it's just about being able to relax and give your all on the route when it comes down to it.

In Youth B Boys we had two competitors, David Miedzybrodski and Rory Cargill. Both of these guys are incredibly talented and very strong!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281834943_02d60b1306.jpg)Connor getting ready to do battle! David has been training hard all year and didn't get the results he wanted at the weekend unfortunately, but it's yet another good motivational push for him and a lesson to learn that its important to take the bad days as learning curves and not begrudge them too much.

The routes did have some really big moves on them and David is a little smaller than the other kids, this definitely had an effect. I really felt for young Alex Norton, one of the most inspiring climbers I have seen in the British youth scene for many years. He has a height disadvantage but makes up for it with tenacity, technique and a brilliant attitude. Unfortunately the moves were just too big for him in the end and it couldn't be helped... he couldn't make the reaches :( The actual difference between the top 15 competitors was not much... some guys who usually make top 5 where in the bottom 15! It was a mixed bag of results which certainly wasn't a bad thing - I think it just shows that we have a massive number of really talented climbers comng through and all of them have the potential to compete at a very high level in climbing :)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281751343_cdbeb0758e.jpg)Rory Cargill giving it some welly in the finals!

Rory did really well to achieve 5th place in the competition overall :D His final climb was inspiring as he gave it 110%! He fell just short of the high point and no doubt he has the potential to win these competitions in the future!

In Youth A Boys William Bosi did his usual and climbed fantatsically. Peter Dawson just beat him by a + point with an amazing fight on the final route! It was one of the best performances I have seen in a while and Pete wholehartedly deserves his 1st place position :)

In Youth C Girls we had young Emma Davidson competing. Emma is super keen for the competitions and she always comes away with a smile. She has a fantastsic attitude towards them, she just goes in for the fun of it (the best way to be). Emma came away with 12th place, a brilliant result for her :)

In Youth B Girls we had Rebecca Kinghorn, Kirsten Gray and Keira Farmer competing. This category is probably one of the most competetive with 26 competitors in total! Rebecca is on the GB Team and has climbed 8a already this year in Kalymnos. She did her usual and blitzed the comp topping both her qualifiers with ease and winning the finals on countback. Kirsten Gray has been climbing really well recently and qualified for finals in 8th place on the day. She came away in 5th place at the end with a brilliant performance in the final - if only she had seen a cheeky heel hook and maybe she could have gone a bit further? I think we will see a lot more from Kirsten over the 2014 competition season - she is only just getting into her stride :) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281816923_113567266a.jpg)Kirtsen Gray after a really good climb on Qualifier 2!

Keira was 15th overall and placed 13th on each of her routes in qualifiers. To be honest, there wasn't much between those in the finals and those who didn't make it - Keira was a plus point of Kirsten on qualifier 2 and qualifier 1 if she had topped she would have been in! Keep aiming high guys, you are all stars!

In Youth A Girls we only had one, Eilidh Vas Payne. I haven't seen much of Eilidh recently but she seemed to be climbing well - the Youth A category is always tough and she is still only the bottom end of that category so hopefully over this year she can step it up some more in prep for her 2nd year in the category. She has also been doing more bouldering than routes over the last year which might have left her a little rusty on the ropes :P In the end she came away with 11th :) Good work(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281637405_091138acbe.jpg)Kirtsen Gray in the finals!

Finally Rebekka Drummond in the Junior girls came 2nd place overall but was qualified in 1st place! This is amazing considering the time she has taken off climbing due to her injuries this year. She has really stepped up to the mark and I was well impressed. It's been fun working with Rebekka this year and I look forward to helping her progress throughout 2014 as well. Next week she is off to Hampi in India for a bouldering holiday with her boyfriend Sean. Hope you guys have a great time :D

So was a good weekend of competing for British kids - well done to everyone! I am now back in Edinburgh and looking forward to my trip to Spain in 8 days time!!! AGHHHHH!!! So Psyched!

 

 

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281511035_5793f98a14.jpg)Inspiring Final from Pete Dawson!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281631403_e600a13201.jpg)Alex Waterhouse falling on the final route

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281737044_586b2551ea.jpg)William Bosi on his second qualifier

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281569116_f15d97e88e.jpg)Rebecca Kinghorn on the final route of Youth B Girls

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281806283_a59a0759ff.jpg)Rebekka Drummon on her second qualifier

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11281693006_6d235deb7d.jpg)William Bosi higher on his second qualifier

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: New Years and Xmas in Catalunya
Post by: comPiler on January 17, 2014, 06:00:27 pm
New Years and Xmas in Catalunya (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/spain-2/new-years-and-xmas-in-catalunya.html)
16 January 2014, 3:37 pm

New Years and Xmas in Catalunya

HOLA!!!

Well I'm actually in the UK now so saying "Hola" is probably not gonna get me very far but I will probably continue saying it to everyone I meet over the next few weeks until I get out of the habit :P(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/photo_1_2.JPG)Skies leaving Liverpool early morning

I've just had what has been such a seemingly quick trip to Spain, the time there just flew by, something I am only too well acquainted with from my climbing trips over the years... why can't they last forever!!! This time I headed out with a more recently accrued friend of mine, Sam Williams, a young and very eager climber who has a talent for decking out on trad routes. I met Sam this year in Ceuse during his mega summer road trip with his friend Darren, both of them undergraduates at Aberdeen Uni. Sam is now in his final year of study and is gunning for a PhD at the start of the next academic year (clever clogs).

Sam and me became good friends from practically our second meeting (not the first meeting as his first impression was me having a tantrum as I struggled on an 8c... frankly he thought I was a bit of a douche!). He was correct... but he somehow forgot this and I managed to con him into coming to Spain with me over Xmas and New Year :P(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/photo_4_2.JPG)Me and Sam at Espadelles (First day psyche!)

Our plan was to drive out to Spain from Scotland and meet up with my good friends Tom Bolger and Lynne Malcolm. They have a house situated very close to Margalef, PERFECT! A combination of good climbing, good friends and home comforts will make this trip very good indeed :D We did have a few issues getting out however... On every climbing trip there are always moments of madness and muck ups that make the experience even more memorable. Our first one wasn't really until we had made it into Spain... Our journey was split into two sections really, Scotland to Liverpool (where we slept at Sam's parents) and then Liverpool to the house in Spain :P That was a hell of a long drive! We did share it but Sam did most of the driving because I only had the insurance from when we arrived in France. We decided to go to Riglos as soon as we had arrived in Spain to attempt the amazing "Fiesta de los Biceps", however upon our arrival we found much to our disappointment that the huge pillar was covered in a cloud of mist... not ideal conditions and although it would be possible for us to do still, the 30 hours of driving we had just undertaken was having an ever so slightly negative effect on our energy levels... the idea of climbing 250m in the wet with a 40minute hike off it in the rain after driving for 30 hours was not so appealing. Not to mention I was also suffering from car sickness :( So we abandoned our plans and set off for Tom and Lynne's house.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994426154_a66e8af21c.jpg)Riglos towers under a cloud mist :'(

Amazingly this was only the start of our adventures that day :P We drove another few hours around the long and windy roads towards Pobella de Cerbolla ("Village of the Deer" in Catalan), where Tom and Lynne's house was situated. Upon reaching the village we were both completely exhausted and ready to lie down and have a rest... as we entered the village however, I saw Tom and Lynne pass us in their caravan and much to my disappointment they didn't even notice as I passed them by waving like a lunatic! So Sam and I were in the right place, but we didn't know exactly where their house was... I had some vague directions on my iPhone describing turns on a dirt road just outside the village, and so our next epic begins! 2 hours later we have got lost on muddy dirt roads in the rain, lost the front underside guard of the car (somehow?), overheated the car trying to get up a muddy dirt track and lastly we got stuck in a ditch at the side of the road on our attempts to escape this hellish maze. I managed to push us out after cleaning the mud of the wheels with a stick in the pouring rain...(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994425784_7150cb23cb.jpg)WHAT A JOURNEY!

We eventually got out the maze and back onto the main road where we met up with Tom and Lynne. Amazingly, we were actually on the right road (yes... the dirt track was correct) and if we had gone only 20m further down it we would have come across their house... :'( I wanted to cry...

Not a great start to our time in Spain but certainly one we won't forget in a hurry. Lynne and Tom's house is situated a mere 45 minutes drive from Margalef and an hour or so from Siurana. When we arrived there was no heat, electricity or food... but a few days into the trip and the place was looking a lot better! Tom bought a wood burning stove from town and in a very short time the place had gone from looking like it hadn't been habited in years to looking like home :)

 

Climbing Time Our initial days in Spain were mostly spent regaining energy from the drive and doing a spot of climbing to lift our spirits and get into the flow of things. Margalef is without a doubt one of the very best climbing destinations I have ever been to for those climbing in the 7c and up grade range. My expectations of what Margalef would be like went along the lines of, "steep, powerful, big holds, pockets, like an indoor wall".(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994358383_3cb4720707.jpg)We've Arrived :D SUNNY SPAIN!

Well... I have heard people describe Margalef like this... my thoughts on this are that they are probably on a selection of very few routes that fit this description. I have actually been to Margalef before but only for a few days. I climbed at a sector with classic 7c's and 8a's which all fit the gym-style description, however, the majority of Margalef is more like steep, powerful on technical pocket climbing requiring sick body tension on the steeper stuff and really good foot-work and soft rubber for everything else! The climbing is super technical if you want to climb pretty much anything, even the 6's are desperate! Onsighting is a nightmare as there are millions of pockets to choose from and they are very difficult to guess how good they are going to be which makes planning rests and sequences very challenging!

To climb well in Margalef you need to be strong on two fingers! That goes without saying, every hold is either:

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994068525_4291e9db47.jpg)Pockets do horrible things to your skin :/The funny thing is, I actually thought I was good on pockets before this trip... oh how wrong I was! I am a total punter on pockets and this has spurred me on to new levels of motivation for my training in 2014 :) A lot of the time on routes harder than 8a your rests are literally hanging on two fingers, if you can't relax comfortably like this you just won't recover! The other thing that became apparent very quickly is that I thrive on being able to put my thumb over my index finger when I need to pull hard or do longer sections of pumpy climbing. It's amazing how much your thumbs can help you indoors and on crimps, which has made me think  differently on training indoors for outdoor sport climbing. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994861036_72fae81d62.jpg)8b+ in Margalef

I guess though that this is a very specific problem only at certain crags where the climbing is on pockets or flat edges. Somewhere with a lot of tufas and I think you would perhaps be quite strong coming from an indoor environment - probably one of the reasons why I thrive on tufa climbing :P

 

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994425164_be1782ea1e.jpg)"Ultimos Vampiros Hippies" (8c)So, our trip got off to a bit of a shaky start... A tiring journey through the UK, France and Spain left us a bit exhausted, but after a few easier days on the rock, we were starting to get into a bit more of a routine. Sam and I were climbing mainly at Margalef, specificaly in a sector called "Raco de la Espadelles". It was here that I tried an 8c called "Ultimos Vampiros Hippies". On my first attempt at this route I surprised myself at being able to climb the bottom crux with the exception of one of the moves... This move I found quite hard on it's own, but I feel that the reason wasn't solely down to strength, but more limited by an injury in my right knee that prevented me from using the high right foot most people use for that move. I got all the beta from a young New Zealand climber called Wiz Fineron (who I had actually met about 5 years previously whilst competing in the international competitions). From the bottom crux to the top, the route is about 8a+ which I found quite easy on it's own. I felt that if I managed to get through the bottom then I would have done the whole thing. The lower crux as a boulder grade is probably in the region of V10 I would say?

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994349013_c77172c9e6.jpg)Sam on a 7c at EspadellesSam tried the hardest 7a+ at the crag, a horrible tenuous and very committing route at the left of the crag called "Dracula"! This thing is grim with a few very had pocket moves on it! I think I've done a lot easier 7b+'s!

Villanova de Prades We were climbing a lot with Tom and Lynne and so would check out some other crags with them such as Villanova de Prades. This crag is not as popular or well-known as Margalef. On my first day there I found it absolutely nails... on my 2nd day there, nothing changed :P I actually fell off a 7b and then had to do it 2nd go after figuring out all the beta! Then I projected a 7b+ and managed it on my 4th or 5th go? About as long as 8b+ usually takes :P Then I did an 8a 2nd go and Tom flashed it! The 8a was easier than the 7b+ no doubt :P(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994415904_258f6d7c9c.jpg)A horrible 7a+ at Villanova de Prades :P

Christmas @ Tom + Lynne's Our Christmas Eve was proper grim :( We stayed in one of the worst hotels I have ever had the displeasure of being inside. The Margaelf hotel is so bad I can't even out words to describe it... Imagine faulty towers without the funny characters and in place of them, just a grumpy Catalan woman who looks at you like she hates you with every shred of her soul. The actual hotel was cold, had no atmosphere and genuinely just felt soulless!

It was an unfortunate circumstance that we landed there... the situation was that we had decided to stay at the Margalef refugio for a few days of warm showers and being a bit closer to the crag, but unfortunately the refugio had ended up being closed over the xmas period, so we were forced to stay in the hotel last minute. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994354583_2d059c6b39.jpg)Christmas with my friends :D

On the note of the refugio called "Raco de la Finestra", it's absolutely amazing! I highly recommend staying there whilst in Margalef :D The people are lovely, the atmosphere is warm and friendly and the place is clean as anything! If I went back to Margalef on my own or with friends, I would stay there without a doubt. The guy who runs the place and his manager are some of the main equippers for Margalef who put a lot of their own time and money into making Margalef what it is today, so it's actually worth staying there even just to give back to the bolting off the area.

 Christas Day was so much better! Sam and I went climbing at Finestra sector - Sam climbed an amazing 7c which I did after him. I also tried to climb the 8b called "Niña Mala" but was unsuccesful - it had a pretty hard move of a mono which I loved and hated :P I need to get better at monos!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994056135_822013cc81.jpg)EVIL ARTHUR! :P

 After climbing we went to Tom and Lynne's for Christmas dinner :D It was soooooo good :) Those guys know how to do a good Christmas! The place was covered in tinself and christmas decorations - Arthur the cat was going mental with the tinsel and bobbles hanging from the tree :P After dinner we had a mad game of "pass the bomb" (a funny word game) during which time, Tom, Lynne and Sam became ever so increasingly merry.

The best part of Christmas for me was having my bag of christmas presents that my mum had given me to take out... it seemed I was the only one with any presents so the others just sat and watched me open mine hahaha and occassionaly I would give them one for the pleasure of opening :P We shared any confectionary gifts... Lynne insisted!

  New Years!!! New years was so much fun! New Years Eve was spent climbing at one of the most stunning crags I have ever been to, Montsant, Raco de Misa!!! I spent most of the day belaying Sam on a 60m long 7b+ hahahaha that was a long belay! Honestly I thought it was just selfish of him to choose that route :P(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994419514_5cd60002be.jpg)Raco de Misa (Montsant) - Lee Cujes, L-Mens is another one for us to go and do :D AMAZING!

It was an awesome effort by Sam though and a worthy onsight for him :) I tried an 8b+ called "L-Mens" which was again, stunning and with incredible moves on incredible rock in an incredible position! Don't think I can use the word "incredible" any more times in this blog? I didn't do it unfortunately as we had limited time - so I only had one go at it but I enjoyed the process of figuring out the moves for my next trip there.

We met up with Sam Hamer, Ed Hamer and Andre Hedger at the crag who were out there on a climbing trip with Ted Kingsnorth and Simon Smith. It was really good catching up with them and Sam and I ended up bringing in the New Year with them at Siurana :D

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994867426_d3927b8b7c.jpg)Attentive belaying :PWe had dinner at a nice refugio in the Siurana village and then headed to Cornudella for the party! I am not a party animal by any stretch of the imagination, but it was fun going out with friends on New Years and being with climbers for once hahaha. At the party there was so many good climbers, I have never seen such a concentration of 9a climbers in one spot! It was good to see old friends from past trips who I hadn't seen in a while, guys like Rueben and David Firnenburg, Izidor Zupan, Eilidh Rouxel and he husband FLo, Wiz Fineron, Alex Megos, Daniel Jung, Felix Neumarker, Michelle Kim Theisen and of course all my good friends from the UK, Ed, Sam H, Sam W, Ted and Andre!

I won't go into details of the night... there are only three people who can remember what happened on New Years Night in Siurana, Wiz Fineron, Alex Megos and myself as I think we were the only non-drinkers there :P As far as eveyone is aware, what happens in Siurana, stays in Siurana... well... I will give up the secrets for the right price ;)

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994060495_183ee6c3b8.jpg)L-Mens (8b+)

 

The End of our Trip  After New Year, Sam and I stayed at the refugio some more to be closer to Margalef. It was a good scene there too! I met up with some friends from back home, Nic and Jon who were out on a trip over the holidays. Also met up with some Danish friends Mikkel, Bjorn at Katrina who are still out climbing there right now :P LUCKY!!!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994060905_928303c1d2.jpg)Sam getting rather excited at New Year Party :PSam and I mainly climbed at Espadelles for the remainder of the trip. All was going really well until Sam ripped one of the biggest flappers I have ever seen when he was warming down one evening on a 6c+! It was horrendous :O That put the lad out of action for a few days :( I continued to climb and decided as it was only a couple of days until we headed home just to focus on mileage. I ended up making a new friend, Alan Pierce, an English climber who now lives in Andorra. We climbed together for two days at Espadelles and one night he tried to show us how to cook with a pressure cooker... this failed miserably resulting in us smoking out the refugio living room hahahaha It was so funny! So that night Alan very kindly treated me to a refugio cooked chicken dinner hahaha :D Thanks man!

The next day, Alan and I climbed at Espadelles again. I did an 8a called "Transilvania" whilst Alan flashed a tricky 7a to the right. We then went further round the corner and Alan tried a really tough 7c in the sun. I tried to onsight it and failed :P It was so greasy in the sun. Luckily I did it 2nd go, but it still felt gnarly! props to Alan for choosing one of the toughest 7c's I've been on in a while :D

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994865966_865bde88b7.jpg)Masriudoms!!!On the last day of our trip, Sam and I headed to Masriudoms with a South African called Ebert and his American friend (who lives in SA), Michael. Masriudoms is a crag near Reus which is largely steep tufa climbing, a very big cotrast from Margalef! It felt similar to Terradets climbing actually, suited me to a tea :D I had a fun mileage day by onsighting two 8a's, did another one 2nd go and then did a 7c and a 7b+ onsight at the end. The 7b+ had a huge move at the end that I thnk would be bloody nails if you were much shorter than me... Tom almost fell off on it hahaha!

 

Headin' Home So that was our trip to Spain :D We headed home the next day via a 4 hour car journey to Bilbao, then a ferry for 20 hours to Portsmouth and then another car journey to Southport to Sams parents house. I got the train the next day to Edinburgh from Preston.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994361593_48eb37af7a.jpg)Almost missed the boat home... by 2 minutes!!!

It was a fun trip for sure, maybe not the best ticklist I have ever had by a long run, but it was for sure an educational trip that showed me where my weaknesses lie still. I need to work on my individual finger strength and pocket strength! Also, I was expecting to be relatively fit having only recently come back from a very succesful onsighting trip to Teradets and having felt fit at the wall, however, the open hand style of Margalef totally took me by surprise! I discovered that my open hand endurance is actually really bad. I think for some time now I have been lazy by not training this facet of my climbing and instead just trying to get up hard routes, circuits or laps indoors by any means necessary. I feel now more than ever that if you really want to get the best out of your indoor training for rock, specificity is so important!

I am in the training zone now and have some big plans for 2014! Australia trip is 9 weeks away :D Better get training hard!!!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994050855_7e542b8c64.jpg)

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11994343633_112d32733a.jpg)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Australia Psyche
Post by: comPiler on January 26, 2014, 12:00:27 am
Australia Psyche (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/rock-climbing/australia-psyche.html)
25 January 2014, 8:25 pm

Hey Guys

So things have been moving quickly since I returned from Spain a few weeks ago. I am back into my usual coaching and route setting routine based at Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, but it's never long before I am off on another adventure :P

My next trip is to Australia for 6 weeks at the end of March! I am seriously looking forward to this trip as Australia is somehwere I have wanted to go to since I was a wee knipper. Something about this place down under has always intrigued me... I don't know why? Even before I was climbing it was somehwere I had only ever dreamt about. When I started climbing I remember reading "Climber" magazine and finding this picture (below) of Stefan Glowacz on the stunning line of "Kachoong"

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/kachoong.jpg)

 in the Arapiles. It was that moment seeing this picture that I knew I had to go... it was magical and something that was etched into my soul forever!

Since then even more reasons to go continually were thrown at me. I have been travelling with climbing since I was 16 and have met so many climbers and travellers from all corners of the globe. Australians always do it big style when they make a trip because they live so far away, so whenever I'm on a trip I always get to spend a lot of time with them. It's something about the Ozzie style/humour/personality that clicks with my Scottish-ness :P  At least that's what I think? There is definitely a similar type of "crazy" that is bred into Scots and Aussies that makes the connection? :P

On top of the picture of "Kachoong", another picture blew my mind! It was in Simon Carters (http://www.onsight.com.au/) annual photo calendar (I think?) when I was about 15 years old... It was a picture of Justin Clarke on the mega classic line on Taipan wall called "Groovy" (7c).

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/SimonCarter_3.jpg)

 This picture again was etched into my mind as something that inspired me to climb and push myself harder so that one day I could go and climb this incredible route! For some reason I thought it was like 8c? It looks it from the picture hahaha But it's only 7c to here... the extension however is 8c and this is what has been pushing me to train hard for this trip!

The unfortunate business with my plan to attempt "Groove Train" (8c) - Extension to "Groovy" (7c) - is that there has just been some massive fires in the Grampians region which has meant a temporary closure to Taipan Wall... It looks as though it will be closed still when I arrive ;( what rotten luck! However, this has not dampened my spirits... I am still psyched to go and do other routes in the area.

I remember when I first met my friend Logan Barber (http://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.co.uk/) in Ceuse back in 2007. We were talking about classic climbs in Australia that we had to do, and the big one that was mentioned was of course, "Punks in the Gym" (8b+). Commonly referred to as "Punks", this route is another that has made itself a constant motivational driving force in my mind!

First climbed by Wolfgang Gullich in 1985, this climb has stood out as a benchmark of difficulty in the 8b+ grade! I have climbed around 20 x 8b+ grade routes now, but I am pretty confident that this one is not going to go down easy :) It has a reputation of stopping even some of the best climbers in their tracks due to it's weird style... I think I am going to have my work cut out for me!

From a non-climbing point of view, Australia has always attracted me from the wildlife point of view. I have always been into nature since I was very small, fascinated by anything that crawls, slithers or scurries (even those that bite). I was a big fan of Steve Irwin when I was a kid, watched his TV show everyday after school for years :D

So yeah... lots of psyche for Aussie-Land!!! The plan is to go to Grampians and Arapiles for 3.5 weeks, then a quick stop in Brisbane, then heading down south to Sydney and Blue Mountains for a week, then back up to Brisbane for another bit. A lot of the people I have met over the years from Australia have been from Brisbane - funny seeing as I don't think the climbing scene there is even that big, but hey, it looks like a really good scene! The crags such as the Pulpit and Coolum look really good fun and I have heard so much about them that I actually can't wait to try them out for myself :)(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/306044_10151185779923867_1170013977_n.jpeg)Lee on something totally awesome! It's funny, because I think what people usually want from Australia is to just go to Blue Mountains or Grampians, but I think I am more looking forward to seeing Coolum because of Mr Lee Cujes, his wife Sam, Matt Schimke (who I met in Ceuse) and Tracey Hua! They have told me everything about the place and thanks to facebook and thecrag.com I feel like I already know the place intimately... but just haven't climbed there :P It's been described as a grotty cave, but I think I'm gonna love it! Hey... It has kneebars... What's not to love?

Blue Mountains was not originally part of the plan, but I'm glad it is now :D I am going to get to experience some of the best climbing destinations in Australia in one trip!!! This is going to leave me open to visit more of these places for longer hopefully on future trips there :) Blue Mountains is near Sydney and looks like one of the best places on earth! My friend Logan Barber (http://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.co.uk/) lives there so we are going to stay at his house for the week - think it's going to be an interesting experience to see the Blue Mountains after hearing about it for years. Also, not that I am mega into visiting places of interest... but my two big ticks that I wanna go see are:

1) I wanna go to Sydney Opera House :D

2) I wanna visit the crazy wall that Ben and Lee Cossey train on :P

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1315225819sydney-opera-house-at-night.jpg)

It will be interesting visiting the Blue Mountains for climbing. I am not sure how I will get along with the style? My good friend Ed Hamer (http://hamerboys.blogspot.co.uk/) went there early 2013 and had an amazing trip, but he is a beast on crimps :P I am not quite as strong as Ed and I reckon I might find it hard!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/New_wave_wall.jpg)Ed Hamer on an 8b I wanna do!!!!

Check out this sweet video that Tracey Hua (http://www.rockhugger.com.au/me.html) made of her recent trip to Blue Mountains :D It's really funny (slightly mad) and you get to see a bit of what I imagine climbing at the Blue Mountains is like...

So yeah... I'm psyched... Can you tell? :P

I'm training a lot of crimp strength, 2 fingers for maximal strength throughout all fingers, power endurance (a lot on campus board) and I have just bought a mount from Crusher Holds for my fingerboard so I can finally have one in my house :) Not had one in ages... this is going to be good for me!

Anyway, 7 weeks to go now :) Time is flying and before I know it I'll be boarding the plane... better get training!

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: 1 Week in Australia!
Post by: comPiler on April 01, 2014, 01:00:35 pm
1 Week in Australia! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/1-week-in-australia.html)
1 April 2014, 7:52 am



Read more (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/1-week-in-australia.html)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: More Time in Oz!
Post by: comPiler on April 14, 2014, 07:00:24 pm
More Time in Oz! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/another-week-in-oz.html)
10 April 2014, 8:55 am

 

The last week has been a whirlwind of climbing here in Australia. I have dabbled in both trad and sport but the highlights for me have certainly been in the sport climbing (and sometimes mixed).

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/IMG_4111.jpg)Tracey on "Krank 'N' Dangle" at Muline crag, Grampians

Firstly, after doing “Punks in the Gym” so quickly, I had surprised myself at what I could achieve already. I was keen to do more challenging routes in the area but there wasn’t anything really hard in Arapiles that inspired me. I had a looke at the f8c/33 “Somalia” which had last year only received it’s first ascent from Wiz Fineron, however I wasn’t inspired at all by the climbing or the line and felt it was more of a painful 1 move boulder situated next to some much better looking routes. I think “Somalia” for me would be something I would have to invest more than a few days into anyway and I don’t think I would be prepared to do that.

I seeked out only the best looking routes, those that really inspired me to climb them from the bottom t

o the top!

Ethiopia 30/8a+

The first thing I saw was “Ethiopia” 30/8a+. This was already on my ticklist. It’s famous outside of Australia as well for being outstanding climbing, but also because it’s largely placed protection and not bolts that are securing you. There are on the route 1 bolt and a carrot

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/IMG_4005.jpg)Me climbing "Ethiopia" (30/8a+)

I believe that protect you from over halfway to the top of the route. As well as that there is one fixed wire and plenty of room for cams and other nuts all over the place!

I tried it at the end of the day with Logan Barber, an aussie friend of mine who I’ve known for years! Logan and I are planning big trip to the Dolomites in a few months time so it has been good to climb with him out here as well beforehand.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/IMG_3972.jpg)Me and Logan tucking into Breakfast at Natimuk before climbing :DMy onsight of “Ethiopia” didn’t go as well as I had expected. “Ethiopia” has a 7c+/28 variant called “India” that busts out right after the first crux. Unfortunately I didn’t even get past the first crux L I fell on the crux move going to a big slot in the wall falling onto the fixed wires. I spent the next 15 minutes trying various things but couldn’t get through. All until I found a vital way of holding a pinch on the wall, which I had not been using! As soon as I discovered this I cruised through it and was into the second half.

I was lucky, the second half of the route was actually quite easy and probably on 7c/27 on it’s own. There was a tricky crack sequence at the end that took some time solving for me, but once I had figured it out it was easy. A day later I came back and sent!!!



Lord of the Rings 31/8b



The next big hit on the list was the ultra classic “Lord of the Rings”. This is yet another historic route with a little bit of comedy gold as well. This route is famous world wide thanks to a picture of a keen local who is seen climbing the route solo wearing flip flops whilst drinking a pint. When you actually get on the route you realize how utterly mental this must be and it quickly becomes apparent that this can’t be possible!!!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/IMG_4026.jpg)Heading into the final few tricky moves of "Lord of the Rings" (31/8b)

I found out that it wasn’t :P The guy was wearing his harness under his shorts and was clipped into one of the “Ring” bolts (hence the name “Lord of the Rings”).

The climb is cunning and challenging to figure out. All the holds are obvious but they are small and there is a lot you can do with your feet. I also figured out multiple sequences I could use to get through the main crux section but these all ended with slightly different difficulties on redpoint.

In the end, a Kiwi climber also working the route (James Gunn) gave me some of his beta and that worked for me nicely. I quickly despatched this afterwards, but not before taking a fall from the slab right before the chains… D’OH!!! Exactly what the guide says try to avoid!

Some say this might be as hard as “Punks in the Gym”? For me it felt a long way off, but it certainly doesn’t mean that for some it isn’t as hard… Just depends what you feel comfortable doing.

The epic story of “Lord of the Rings” for me is one that went crazy on Facebook. I jumped off the top whilst working one of the sections and the quickdraw that was clipped into bolt snapped!!! The quickdraw was a Petzl Spirit that James had equipped the routes with. The biner snapped in two, sending me flying towards the ground. Luckily, Tracey caught me before I hit the tree and I was only a bruised in my ribs and wrist.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/IMG_3969.jpg)Snapped Quick-Draw!!!

The reason this happened is unsure right now. Speculations have gone from, dodgy Chinese knock-off Petzl biners to the potential that the biner cross-loaded. I believe that the dodgy home-made hanger attached to the bolt caused the biner to flip and cross-load as well as opening the gate and weakening the whole thing completely, then my jump was obviously too much to take and it snapped.

A scary predicament to be in but luckily everything is still in one piece and I live to climb another day. I would say to locals to re-place the dodgy hanger with a newer one, possibly placed in a way that won’t make it as easy for the biner to open? But I will leave that up to them…

Onsighting and some Quick Ticks



The rest of my time has been spent trying to onsight other routes. I was really happy to onsight the 28/7c+ “Slinkin’ Leapord” that climbs just to the left of “Lord of the Rings”. It didn’t feel hard on the onsight but I was shocked to see that it hadn’t actually had any previous onsights on 8a.nu which makes me think I might have had a lucky moment where everything came together for a good climb.

I fell on the last move onsighting “Wagalak” (29/8a) whilst placing quickraws. This was frustrating for me, it felt really steady until the last move but the hold was really spooged up and the conditions were really hot and humid. I came back on a much drier, windier day and did it first go! I really liked the style on this route, it felt way different to everything else I had tried beforehand in Arapiles. “Wagalak” is just a steep overhung prow on slopers and a couple of crimps.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/IMG_4090.jpg)Climbing "Break and Enter" (29/8a) - This was a seriously nice piece of climbing despite looking a bit junky in this chasm :P

We spent a morning climbing higher up on the Bluffs. Logan was really keen for a 31/8b up there called “Leaps and Bounds” which he had heard was ok. When we arrived, I must admit I wasn’t inspired. The rock looked a bit crappy and the line wasn’t that obvious… looked a bit like a filler in and not something you travel to the other side of the world to climb. When I actually got on the climb, I was pleasantly surpised and the moves were actually really cool. Both Logan and I got all the moves dialed on our first attempt and we felt confident for a second go burn.

My second attempt at the route went really well! I stuck the crux move and scrambled my way through the next tricky sequence. Before I knew it I was on top clipping the chains :D A cheeky wee 8b to start the day! Logan was close to making it through the crux on his second go as well but unfortunately missed the hold which he takes slightly different to me due to reach, and he has left his quick-draws on it for the send later on in the trip.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/IMG_4075.jpg)Standing below "Leaps and Bounds" (31/8b) - Yet another line that looked rubbish from the ground but actually had nice climbing in it - No Punks though :PAfter doing “Leaps and Bounds”, I was on a high and was really psyched to do the 7c on the main face called “”. It looked like a mega line going straight through the most sustained and blank looking section of wall. The 26/7b+ to the left called “The Prow” was getting a heavy number of hits that day, it shared the same start, and so in-between their attempts I jumped on. Logan had mentioned that he had tried the 7c years previously and found it really hard, so I was expecting to battle. At about half-height, I saw a really tricky sequence ahead on some pinches. I did my best to read what to do from the rest and the I gunned for it. I managed to break through the slopey pinches that were felling rather wet and grimy as well, but the next section was totally blank and there was no chalk anywhere. I was starting to take a bit of a run out now and all I saw was a nut placement to secure the final headwall. I shook out at a rest and went for it! There was a few tricky moves at the top with another quite big run out from the nut but all was good and I came out on top. On the final few metres, a slackliner who was running a highline from the top of the tower to a wall on the other side was talking to his friends whilst hanging from the line, I heard him say “This climb looks amazing from here, I wish I had my camera!”. I wish he had too because it felt really exposed and I imagine the photo from the slack line would have looked wild!

Tracey climbed really well that day and made her hardest ascent on trad for the trip, “Thunder Crack” 21! That route looked really exposed and scary and I think it would bring even the strongest climbers to their knees without a good head on them.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/IMG_4086.jpg)Nearing the top on this EPIC 7c that I onsighted - it even had a few gear placements!!! Does that count as Trad?

In the evening, we caught up with Logan’s good friend Aido who was also trying “Punks in the Gym”. I ended up getting on a 29/8a called “Break and Enter” that was situated just to the left of “Punks”. I had a flash burn with some beta from some guys trying it but unfortunately fell just short of the chains. I ended up finding a much better bit of beta for the last move and stuck it on my second go! YAY!

The next few days we spent climbing in the Grampians and Arapiles before heading over to Queensland. I am now in Brisbane for a few days, climbing at Coolum and The Pulpit :D

Stay tuned for a blog on the Grampians in the next few days and my time in Brisbane :)

PSYCHED!!!



 

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Title: Grampians :D
Post by: comPiler on May 02, 2014, 01:00:26 pm
Grampians :D (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/grampians-d.html)
2 May 2014, 6:50 am

Hey Guys

A lot has happened since my last blog post! I have been climbing in the Grampians, the Blue Mountains and around Queensland. It’s been an incredible trip and I don’t want it to come to an end :P

Towards the end of our time in Arapiles, we made a couple of trips to the Grampians, which is only a short distance away. We visited one of the most amazing crags I have ever been to, a super steep sculpted sandstone wonder known as Muline. This place is literally like something out of a crazy dream world where the rock is formed like a huge tsunami of orange lava! I really can’t think of any other description for it :)

When Muline was first discovered, the guys who found it must have literally had to pick their jaws up from the ground… What a find!

When we first arrived at Muline there was nobody there but us, but within a few hours, fellow Edelrid sponsored climber, Nathan Hoette and his wife Heather joined us at the crag. I had not seen Nathan and Heather since I was 18 on a trip to Ceuse back in 2008, so it was really good to catch up :)

On our first day at Muline, I started of with a warm up on the classic 24/7a+ called “Krank ‘N’ Dangle”. It has one shouldery move low down and afterwards is just swinging about on big holds. It was really good to get the upper body moving properly before trying anything harder.

“Eye of the Tiger” 29/8a

The next route I did was the über classic king line of the crag, “Eye of the Tiger” 29/8a. This one was what I really wanted to do today… I had first seen this route in a picture Nathan had posted on facebook before I came out... it looked wildly overhanging and gymnastic in style. I couldn’t wait to be up there :D

The first section of the route is a sloping ramp of flat jugs for about 10m. It traverses diagonally leftwards along the side of the huge “Tiger’s Eye” feature that the route is named after. The holds in this section are all really positive and you don’t really get too pumped. You can then get a really good rest at the top of this section and chill for a while before heading out into the roof.

I looked out from the rest position into the roof, scoping out the next holds and trying to visualize what it was you had to do. The climbing took me out feet first, something you very rarely get to do on rock, and involved a cool hand to foot match and a swing as you released your weight.

Once your established in the roof, the only way is up! I powered on through the steepness onto big positive holds and managed to crank through into a rest just over the bulge. Talking to guys later on, it seems that the rest here is not great, but for me I really managed to recover and relax before the impending upper section where the holds become much smaller! For me, this rest was important otherwise I just wouldn't have been recovered enough...

I did a few more moves on positive holds before reaching a traverse out right on smaller crimps and pockets. The good thing was that although the holds were small, they were positive and I could shake out well on all of them! Before I knew it I was clipping the chains :D ONSIGHT!



“Path of Yin” 30/8a+

Another absolutely stunning piece of climbing art was “Path of Yin”. There was a picture of Nathan in the guidebook on this which looked awesome and I had already been told of it by a friend from Melbourne (Gavin) that this was something special :)

I read it from the ground, a tough boulder to start followed by easier climbing then a rest and a sustained finish. I figured that I could onsight this if I broke through the bottom boulder but I would need to try hard! AMUERTE!!!

I pulled onto some small slopey crimps then reached out to a big slopey pinch… I launched into a compression sloper with my left and held a small cut loose. I threw my right foot onto a good footer and kneebared in with my right knee allowing me some stability to bring my left hand over onto a better hold and then I pressed onto some good holds out right. YASSS!

I was through and all I needed to do was keep it together The rest of the climbing looked about 28/7c+ from there. I kept going upwards, rested at some jugs before another steep section then kept moving. Thankfully none of the holds in the steepest section of the route were bad and I was comfortably moving higher and higher! I reached a rest at the last clip… the next section looked sustained on small edges traversing left towards jugs and the chains! I moved quickly and efficiently… everything was going fine, I felt strong, I rested on some positive holds then kept going. Before I knew it I was eyeing up the last hold before the chains… I pressed out left and held it, I was just about to move when I slipped… NOOOO!!! I was pretty upset… the last hold I had was in the middle of a wet streak of water, I had the hold solid in my grasp but obviously was holding too hard and I just slipped straight of it!

Everyone on the ground was as devasted as me, they didn’t expect it either… Nevermind… It’s part of climbing, dealing with the little slips. In truth, if I was a better climber I would have just done it anyway hahaha like ONDRA on "Mind Control"!!! But I did it 2nd go so I was happy with that :)



“Flying Duck” 32/8b+

The big tick of Muline for me was a link up of “Path of Yin” into “”Eye of the Tiger”. Now I know it sounds like a bit of a cheeky tick :P Link two routes you have done already to get a harder climb, but in all honesty, “Flying Duck” was very much it’s own route, with a large linking traverse section being the crux.

Nathan Hoette states in the guide that he thinks it’s the best bit of climbing at Muline… I don’t have the credit of Nathan that that statement deservses because I haven’t climbed everything at Muline, but I can vouch for him by saying that it’s the best climbing I did there!

Include the boulder crux of “Path of Yin” that probably weighs in at around V6/7? After this you rest at the linking point of “Path of Yin” and “Flying Duck”. This is then followed by a tricky pumpy section busting out right where I found some cool beta that I think was completely new, as I had not found any chalk on the holds I used and the route has still very few ascents to this date.

You can rest up on a sharp crimp rail before doing a short boulder sequence of probably about V5 or V6 difficulty involving a powerful dynamic throw for a sloper rail of a 2 finger pocket! AWESOME!!! From here it links into “Eye of the Tiger” for a nice and steady 26/7b+ finish :)

Other stuff in Grampians



As well as those classic three routes, I also did a few other great climbs at Muline. I had an awesome onsight attempt on “Centinnial Line” 30/8a+ which was only buggered by the fact that I accidentally traversed to far left before going upwards and instead of being on the 8a+, I was actually making an onsight attempt of Nathan Hoettes new bolted project which looks like it will be in 31/8b grade range :P I actually managed to get quite far along it before taking a whipper :P I think if I had gone the right way it would have been on for the onsight of the 30/8a+.

I also came close on the onsight of another 30/8a+ called “Deamon Flower”. I fell on the crux move but did make it through the first crux which is pretty gnarly. If I had made that one move then it would have been done :P Cool route but very sharp!!!

More?



All in all my experience of Grampians was limited to one crag due to weather and time. I really wanted to go to Taipan but I think that will have to wait until next year :) Something to come back for YIPEEEEEE I will come back next year for a big chunk of time and spend a lot of it at Taipan to get the most out of the crag :)



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Title: "Punks in the Gym" 32/8b+
Post by: comPiler on June 30, 2014, 07:00:22 pm
"Punks in the Gym" 32/8b+ (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/punks-in-the-gym-32-8b.html)
30 June 2014, 8:54 am

 

“Punks in the Gym” is an iconic sport climb steeped in history. It was a route bolted by a local Australian climber that was free by Wolfgang Gullich in the mid 80’s and became the world’s first f8b+/32. It has since been the goal for many climbers to one day repeat this hard historic piece of sport climbing history.

When I first got on the route, some of the moves felt really low percentage, like I could fall of them a lot and it could get rather frustrating for me quite quickly. Every foothold is a smear of sorts, nothing is a perfect edge or blocky foothold like on limestone or other rock types. And the smeary feet aren’t just smears of friction, it’s glassy making it even more improbable that your feet should stay there.

There are several moves on the route that just feel so committing that you don’t want to do them for fear of failing…. But you know you have to do them with a do or die attitude, the true “Amuerte” spirit, otherwise you simply won’t make it!

On my first go, I did all the moves but found several sections of the route particularly challenging:

Crux 1: Heel-Toe Lock



The first real crux is a sequence of moves leading up to a particularly tricky move involving a heel-toe cam and a powerful lock move to gain a jug of a fat pinch. After the first couple of clips, you gain a nice flat jug rest after which the sequence is continuous for around 9 hand movements with lots of foot movements interspersed. The last move of this series if the heel-toe cam, which is tricky to place and even trickier to pull off the lock move following. It involves a powerful move of a positive but flat edge to gain a fat pinch, from there you place the heel-toe cam. As soon as the cam feels like it’s locking, you switch the pinch to a gaston and pull through to gain a really nice jug! That’s pretty much the first half of the route over, but just after this with little rest is a techy sequence traversing leftwards on some small crimps and smeary feet. I luckily never fell off this sequence :)

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/IMG_2553.jpg)Long move before the heel-toe

Crux 2: The Birdbath Cross-Through



The famous move that has thwarted so many climbers! This crux move is probably the hardest singular move on the route, which follows about 6 fairly intense moves alongside “A LOT” of foot movements! The crux move itself is fine on it’s own, but it’s quite difficult to keep the percentage chance of success high as it requires good body tension to maintain constant pressure through your feet for the bad smeary foot placement.

I was trying out various different foot placements before I discovered the best one - a left foot smear on a slightly more friction based part of the rock which was slightly further left than what seems to be the most popular smear, which for me was causing a horrible barn-door effect.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/IMG_2557.jpg)

When I figured this beta out, I stuck the move first time from the ground and it was the attempt following that I sent!

The sequence before this definitely tires you out, but luckily you get a really good rest beforehand, I even got a cheeky knee-bar, which I used a little bit.



Crux 3: Horrible Slab from HELL!!!

The top vertical slabby section I found so hard on my first go! It was like a balancy Fontainebleau slab boulder problem right at the top of the route… The difficult part about this is the fact that it comes straight after “Crux No.2” with no rest in between! As soon as you grab the “Birdbath” hold, you pull into a bad thumb sprag and again into a sharp gaston crimp! From here you do a series of very intense movements, one which involves foot to hand on the “Birdbath” and then a couple of very small side-pull crimps. After that you are on the balancy slab bit which isn’t restful until you gain two small but positive edges on a sloping ledge. And even here, it’s not the best rest… When I climbed the route the weather was so warm that I was greasing off these very quickly and only had a short time to rest before having to press on into an extra few tricky moves.

The last hard move is a high step into a positive but flat side-pull. The reason I hated this move was because the high step was onto a horrendous smear foothold, which felt really dodgy! I just felt like I was going to blow off it every-time. Luckily that never happened but it doesn’t mean it was any less scary :P

The Send!



The day I sent it was fresh after a rest day, but conditions for climbing hard routes was not in favour. Temperatures were in the low 30’s, there was little or no wind and everyone was complaining about it being greasy. I wasn’t feeling like I was climbing in the best conditions when I was on the wall, but I decided to give it my all anyway. I managed to get through the first crux pretty steady and was feeling confident for giving the second crux a really good go!

As I rested, eyeing up the following 6 moves that would decide whether or not I would get through into the final head wall, I felt a hot mist roll over me… You know that horrible feeling when your body is just overheating and you start to perspire extra quickly? Well, that was happening, and so I decided to chalk up loads and move quickly, making sure my left hand was rested more than my right for pulling hard on the side-pull that I needed to gain the “birdbath” hold.

I went for it! Every move went perfect, I hit every hold exact and when I came to the “Birdbath”, I set myself up, sat my body out from the wall ever so slightly so I could get as much pressure on the left foot smear as possible, and suddenly I powered through my right leg and pulled hard in on my left hand and caught the “Birdbath”!!! YASSSSSS!!!

I knew I could do this right then and there, I didn’t waste any time! I moved through the following “Crux No.3” sequence fluidly and even though I could feel the sweat dripping and my tips bursting under the sharp crozzles of the crimps, I moved regardless and placed every foot and every hand in the exact sequence I had planned J Before I knew it I was resting on the final crimps before the dreaded “smear move”. I rested up for a couple of minutes making sure I was ready for it and then gunned it down! There was a moment when I was stepping high that I felt my body sink slightly but I sucked it in and pulled through! When I grasped the jugs I was so relieved J I pulled up and made the final few moves to the chains… SUCCESS!!!

Feelings

Climbing “Punks in the Gym” was an amazing experience for me :) It’s one of those routes that you have to climb in your lifetime if you think you have the ability and certainly just one to try out if you ever visit Arapiles even if it’s only one shot.

It’s the world’s first 8b+… that means it used to be the world’s hardest route! Such an amazing experience to be climbing on the same bit of rock that the best climber in the world 25 years ago was gunning for… especially when that guy was the legendary Wolfgang Gullich!

Now having done the route for myself, I see why it has inspired so many climbers over the years. It’s a beautiful piece of rock in an awe-inspiring setting. There are no crowds, few cars and no room for egos! The way I like it – just you and the rock and a few friends to share your experiences with…

Interviews from Australia:



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Title: Nordic Youth Camp: Bornholm
Post by: comPiler on July 18, 2014, 07:00:21 am
Nordic Youth Camp: Bornholm (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/nordic-youth-camp-bornholm.html)
17 July 2014, 11:38 pm

I have just returned from a great week climbing and coaching in a wonderful little island on the east coast of Denmark called Bornholm. "Climbing in Denmark?" I hear you say... Well yes! Amazingly this little island hosts the only real climbing in all of Denmark! The island itself is just a massive chunk of granite plunked a mere half hours flight from the city of Copenhagen. A gem of an island for Danish rock climbers, Bornholm is the home of a growing scene of sport climbing (and trad climbing) as well as some serious potential in granite bouldering :D

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0004.jpg)Scouring the Bornholm beaches for beautiful boulders :D

My story with Bornholm starts with one man, Erling Strauss, whom I met last year whilst working in Skaelskor, a little town an hour from Copenhagen where I was route setting for one of the Danish National competitions. Erling is a local climbing coach and teacher, he works with the local club in Skaelskor, but is also the current head of the Danish Youth Committee and working hard to get more young Danish climbers into climbing as well as providing opportunities for the current young Danish climbers operating within each region and club.

Erling and me got along well and shared similar thoughts on climbing and getting young climbers into the sport as well as how to develop them into better, all round climbers. So he invited me to coach at the Nordic Youth Camp in Bornholm, an event that has previously had big names such as Steve McClure and Sasha Digulian coaching on. I was honoured of course and took him up with it pretty much immediately. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0005.jpg)SO MUCH POTENTIAL!!!! ("American Accent")

The idea of the Nordic Youth Camp is to bring together all the Nordic countries and to have a really fun, social atmosphere for the kids to learn climbing but also make new friends and experience different cultures. Over 50 kids from Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden attended :D I was allowed to bring a team of 5 kids from Scotland if I wanted to, but unfortunately nobody came :( I think this was a shame as it was probably the best atmosphere for a climbing camp I have seen and offered so much more than just a great climbing experience. I learned so much abut the Nordic countries and their cultures as well as making a lot of new friends and contacts for when I visit them :) I can't wait to go to Sweden, Norway, Finland and Iceland - they sound like incredible places with a lot of awesome climbing :D

Day 1(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0149.jpg)Massive game of British Bulldogs before climbing ><

The first day of the camp was spent getting to know everyone with some fun games and a spot of bouldering. We went to the seaside on a beautiful sunny summers day and played amongst the awesome granite boulders. It was really hot that day so conditions weren't perfect for the granite, but it didn't matter :) After a couple of hours of scrambling about, the kids all jumped in the sea and went for a nice cool swim :D

Day 2

Today I was joined in the coaching by both the Danish Senior Female and Male Champion, Bjorn Isager and Katrine Vandett Sailing. I have met Bjorn a few times before on climbing trips and Katrine I only met once last Christmas when I was in Spain. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0125.jpg)Bjorn getting excited... about some sort of blue mat?Bjorn and Katrine are awesome, I love them both because they have such a good attitude for climbing and are so much fun to be around :) Bjorn is one of those guys who I think finds joy in everything he does and has so much focus and passion for climbing. Katrine on the other hand is probably one of the most stubborn and determined climbers I have ever met :D She has a vibrant personality that shines when she coaches and you can really see how much she wants the kids to do well and to have a good time on the trip. I was so lucky to have them with me coaching, it really wouldn't have been the same without them, so thank you guys for being involved and giving your time to coaching at the camp :)

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0131.jpg)Katrine chalking up... For no reason, I think it was just to annoy me :P

Today we visited the main sport crag on the island, a huge granite quarry! It doesn't sound great "climbing in a quarry" but it was actually really good and offers some really awesome climbing in the low 6's and 7's (french grades). There are a few sections to the quarry which offer a range of styles, grades and lengths. The longest routes being in the region of 35m are spectacular and take some really beautiful lines up some immense features of granite. There is a lot more potential in the quarry and I think that in the next few years, there will be maybe another double of what there already is!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0085.jpg)Sara looking strong on Bornholms hardest F6B!

We got a bit rained on in the morning, but after an hour it stopped and the sun came blazing down on us :D We had an excellent day climbing the sport routes with everyone getting a lot done! I gave them all the goal of ticking 6 climbs clean by the end of the week... I think they might all have done that that day! :P

Day 3

We went and did a half day, sport climbing in the morning and bouldering in the evening :D The bouldering was again by the beach, but focussing on some different stuff and this time I had Bjorn and Katrine to show me what was what.

The evening session was awesome, we climbed until it was dark and with the sun setting over the sea, it made a beautiful light and atmosphere to climb in :)

I tried a V9/F7C called "Tyrannosaurus Rex" with a few of the kids towards the end of the day but conditions weren't the best and we had to leave it for the time being. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0010.jpg)Me climbing the very short but intense F7C/V9 "Tyranosaurus Rex"

Day 4

Today was a rest day, I ended up going sport climbing and bouldering with Bjorn and Katrine. Bjorn and I tried a project in the quarry, but conditions were appalling!!! I think it would weigh in at around f8c, with a tricky V9/10 boulder into potentially f8a climbing in a crack after that! I had to clean a lot of the gunk of this one as the route hadn't been touched in over a year and had accrued a lot of slime and mud in the cracks. One for next time I think :)

In the evening, we all went into the town by the port and set up a slack line across the harbour :D Only a few of us got across... the rest all fell into the water :P Great fun for a rest day!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0074.jpg)Arto of Finland impersonating Gollum:P

Day 5

We went back to the sport crag for the morning/afternoon and we told the kids we were going bouldering in the evening... this was however a cheeky lie. We were in fact going to climb a lighthouse on the island that some of the other adults had set up top ropes on! When we reached the lighthouse that evening, the kids didn't know whether to be happy or disappointed that they weren't actually going bouldering hahaha But it turned out to be an excellent decision and climbing the lighthouse was both hilarious and challenging!

One of the Finnish boys (Arto) had a GoPro which we got some excellent and very funny video footage with.

Day 6(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0123.jpg)Liv fron Norway climbing something cool on the boulders :)

Essentially the last day, we went bouldering all day long! We went back to the beach boulders... The kids with me attacked one of the main boulders where there was a V4 and a V9. Frederick Thulstrup (Denmark), Otto (Finland) and Ola (Finland) all climbed the V9 (including myself) and Sunniva (Norway), Liv (Norway) and Munti (Iceland) were all mega close to the V9 as well :D

We then went to another boulder and attempted the worlds hardest V4/6C which might be more like V6/7A or even harder? Then we had some plays on a project V12/8A+ and then I did a potential first ascent variation on the V4/6C which I think would be about V6/7A. It was a direct mantle onto the slab, basically made a slightly harder finish :)

Everyday of the trip was awesome :D We played lots of games after climbing in the gym hall as we had a huge basketball/football/badmington/volleyball court. This was a brilliant end to each day and meant getting a good nights sleep was never really an issue. (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0161.jpg)BOOOYAAHHHHHH!!! Check out this amazing f7b!!!

After the camp was over, I had realised I had accidentally booked an extra day in Bornholm hahaha so I just stayed and climbed :P One of the Swedish girls Sara who lives in California stayed as well and we went bouldering with Bjorn and Katrine for an extra day. Sara was a really strong boulderer from the states and regularly competes at Nationals out there so it was good for her to get an extra wee bit of bouldering in before heading back to Sweden for her summer holidays.

So now I am travelling home... I am currently writing from Oslo where my connection to Edinburgh is made from. I really hope to be involved next year in the camp, and if so, I am going to bring some young british climbers even if I have to force them to come hahaha

Now I am home for 5 days before DOLOMITES!!! YASSSSS!!!

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Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Welcome to the Dollies
Post by: comPiler on July 30, 2014, 01:00:32 pm
Welcome to the Dollies (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/welcome-to-the-dollies.html)
30 July 2014, 11:38 am

So I’ve been in mainland Europe for a week now… I am out here climbing with a good friend of mine, Logan Barber (Australia). I first met Logan on a climbing trip to Ceuse back in 07 and since then we have been on many a good climbing trip together and share a lot of similar goals. At Christmas time I spoke to Logan about a trip to the Dolomites, and thus the seed was planted… Logan was keen for it immediately and we spoke more about the plan when I was in Australia. Before I knew it I was flying off to Munich to meet Logan only shortly after my previous trip to Denmark for the Nordic Youth Camp.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0343.jpg)

The whole idea of the trip was to attempt the famous Alex Huber 8c multipitch “Bellavista” on the Cima Ouest. This is a route that is steeped in fame and infamy becaue of both the legend who freed it and also because when it was put up in 2002, it was the hardest multipitch climb in the world and still remains to this day one of the greatest challenges of the European Alps.

Unfortuntely, upon arrival the weather was not on our side and we had to quickly abandon our post in the most expensive town in Italy (Cortina D’Ampezzo) and head off for another (hopefully drier) alternative climbing destination, at least for the time being.

We drove to Innsbruck and spent the day there where we decided that Zillertal would be a suitable option. This was where we spent most of the last week climbing…

Zillertal has proved to be a totally outstanding destination for us. It offers a completely awesome climbing experience (albeit a little on the spoogy side in current conditions) and there is a multitude of hard granite sport and bouldering crags to go at that are dry all the time J

The first day after a recommendation by both Gaz Parry and Jacopo Larcher, we headed to a crag known as Bachexe (meaning “Witch of the River”) and attempted a classic 8a called “Electriv Avenue”. I was surprised at how hard it was climbing on the granite and it did actually take me 3 goes to do the 8a! Logan got on it and struggled a bit with the powerful moves as he is quite a bit shorter than me and unfortunately didn’t climb it clean. I then tried a beastly powerful 8b+ called “Landerhammer”. On my first attempt it felt really tough… huge shoulder moves to holds that are difficult to see, however on my second attempt it felt much easier and I actually made a really high first link. Hoping to go back for this one as it for sure will go in the next couple of attempts.

The next day I tried a route that I have literally been waiting 9 years to try :P After seeing a poster at Avertical World in Dundee of “Total Brutal” (8b+), this climb has been etched in my brain as a classic to climb one day… And so I was given the opportunity to go try it after I convinced Logan it would be an awesome little project for us J

I was really happy on my initial attempt at the route. I found the first crux quite tricky but the rest was actually not that hard. Felt like a tricky V7 crux start into a f8a to top out. On my 3rd go, I made an awesome link from the start right to the second last clip but fell when my foot popped on a small smeary foothold. This was really frustrating as I had done all the hard climbing and was pretty much going to send it, but that’s what happens I guess…

I came back for it yesterday and sent the route after a couple of goes. Jacopo and his girlfriend Barbera (Zangerl) were at the crag as well. Barbera is trying “Total Brutal” too and she is getting mega close. Was awesome watching her attempt at it as she has flawless technique and immense skill in climbing… I also got to talk to her a little on the Alpine Trilogy, a feat of climbing that has only been achieved by very few (including her) and something that I am keen to try next year.

Bellavista (8c)



So we have had 2 days on “Bellavista” so far… I can’t begin to express how insane this route actually is… It’s really difficult to put into writing the experience of being hundreds of feet from the ground on some of the most difficult rock climbing in the alps whilst your protection on the wall is limited to rusty pegs hammered into fissures and cracks in the wall that you have no idea how long they have been there or how much weight they can actually take… The only real comfort is that the belays are bolted (with one bolt 10m into the crux pitch) and you are so high up and the wall is so steep that hitting anything during a fall is pretty much impossible… you’re just gonna take a massive fall into nothing!

Having that much air below you certainly gives new perspective whilst you climb and it is sometimes quite difficult to forget the almost limitless nothing that awaits you if you fall, but its just something you’ve got to get used to…

On the first day we had OK weather, with some light rain that only splashed us a little on some of the belays, but apart from that, all was good. Logan lead the first 7b pitch and one of the 6a’s and I lead the 6c+, 7a and 7a+ pitches leading to the 8c crux pitch. The 7b pitch was quite scary and involved a 10m solo to get to the first bit of protection! The others I didn’t feel were nearly as bad, but the 7a and 7a+ pitch had some really bad humidity issues, the holds were soapy and damp and quite a few times I almost fell purely because my hand or foot would slip… this is also not to forget to mention the fact that the rock quality is about as comforting as climbing a giant bowl of Apple Crumble… That is to say it’s crumbly… oh so very crumbly!

The sensation of feeling your footholds crumbling into dust when you put so much as a toe on them is something I can’t compare to anything else… that and the sensation of holding a very flexy piece of rock that your trusting to hold you onto the wall… hmmmm not a very nice feeling at all. But at the end of all that, you feel like you have really accomplished something incredible and outright scary! The position on the wall is stunning and totally out there… like nothing I have ever experienced before…

The first day we got to try the first section of the 8c pitch. We didn’t really put any more time to try the rest of it as we were tired and satisfied with having figured out the first pitches of the climb and at least having a glimpse of the 8c pitch. I managed to do all the moves on the first crux and was happy with that for a start.

On the second day, the goal was to try the full 8c pitch and to start working it in an attempt to get it dialed for a lead free attempt pretty soon when the weather is on our side. I was super psyched to find that actually, the rest of the route wasn’t that hard for me… I lead the full thing going from peg to peg, just figuring out the moves and trying to be tactical about the whole operation. I know that attempts on this are limited, so I really do need to know what I am doing up there. Rock quality isn’t the best so I need to be confident where I am putting my feet in order to be as efficient as possible on my redpoint attempt. I attempted the crux two times that day… the first crux pulling the bulge I did several times in a row and have good beta for it now and the last section I did in sections and figured out all the best rests, even a kneebar in the middle of one of the cruxier sections which aided me in not only making one move a lot easier but also gave me an extra little shakeout position. I don’t think anybody else has used this before as there was no rubber on the foothold I was using.

So all in all, me and Logan are really excited about this! I know I can do this pitch so it all comes down to just getting the conditions, getting a bit lucky and making sure I am in the right zone! Logan has decided that he doesn’t feel he can lead the 8c pitch free with the limited time we have, so it’s all on me for this one and Logan is going to try and free the 8a pitch above. I am also going to aim to free this one so that when we go for the full ascent, I will have freed every pitch!

AMUERTE!!!

Read more (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/welcome-to-the-dollies.html)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: On the 5th Day... BELLAVISTA
Post by: comPiler on August 15, 2014, 04:30:02 pm
On the 5th Day... BELLAVISTA (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/on-the-5th-day-bellavista.html)
9 August 2014, 9:54 am

Bellavista



Well… Long story short… Logan and I were successful in our attempt to free one of Europes toughest multi-pitch challenges and indeed one of the world’s most famous, hard, alpine style rock climbs. But the short story long is a far better tale to tell, so that is what I will tell now…

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0218.jpg)View from our tent ;)We travelled back to the Dolomites after a break in the bad weather would allow us to have a bit more time working the crux pitch. We had only had 2 days on the route so far and it had already seemed very possible to free climb, however the prospect of doing the whole route including all the separate pitches in one single push still felt like it would be a real challenge, and would require us to be on top form, climbing everything exceptionally well and especially to have the crux pitch dialed.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0242.jpg)Chilling out making dinner night before the send...Logan had already decided that for him, it was more about the experience of doing the whole climb as a team and had reserved to take the second on the more difficult pitches to allow me to get the free ascent of those. For me, I wouldn’t really be satisfied with anything other than to free the crux pitches ground up… Alpine climbing is approached very differently than other forms of climbing I feel. It’s not about doing the climb free solely; it’s about getting to the top and experiencing the adventure that the climb takes you on. You can approach alpine climbing with a multitude of varying styles i.e. free, aid, team, individual or mixed ascent. Each has its own merits and are impressive in their own way depending on the route. Also, it varies a lot with the conditions you get on your ascent as sometimes it is impossible to complete free or indeed becomes very dangerous and stupid to attempt if the bad weather hits as is often the case in the alpine environment. You have to learn to take what you get sometimes and if your preferred style of ascent is not possible, then you just have to go with what is the most sensible option…

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0271.jpg)Being in the mountains is where we feel home... My desire was to free the route, climbing the most difficult and personally challenging pitches that I felt made the difference to the overall experience of making the free ascent and of course, to top out on the summit of Cima Ouest.

We spent our third and fourth day simply working the crux pitch, a really tough traverse that was already 6 pitches up on the face, hundreds of feet from the ground, on the most exposed face of the Dolomites and probably one of the steepest sections of multi-pitch climbing in the world! This pitch is famous for being the toughest in terms of technical difficulty of the whole route and has proven to be a stand out test of pure climbing ability compared with the rest of the climb which is relatively easy in technical terms. But saying that… the mental aspect of other pitches is far more demanding… I will go into this later…

So, the idea for day 3 and 4 was for me to become immersed in the crux pitch. To learn it’s secrets and to become comfortable climbing it so that when we went for a full free ascent (which we had scheduled for the Monday, after a rest day from day 4) I would be able to just hit it on command without too much hassle.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC000282.jpg)Leading one of the 7a pitches... As you can see in the background, we are in a cloud!!!What actually happened was that I struggled with the conditions of the rock during those two days. I could link large sections of the crux pitch together, but nearly always I would hold back and not try as hard as I could simply because I was uneasy with the slippy nature of the rock. Unfortunately, the rock up there is very susceptible to humidity and sucks in the moisture becoming almost permanently damp and slimy. It’s the kind of conditions that if you were at a sport crag, you just wouldn’t bother climbing it and you would pass it off for another, better day… However, Alpine climbing is very different and you have to learn to just take what you get.

On the 4th day working the route, we bumped into none other than Dave Macleod who was there scoping out a potential new line and trying the crux pitch of “Panorama”. It was good to chat to Dave briefly about “Bellavista” as he had done the crux pitch with Alan Cassidy on a previous trip, however I was a little dismayed when he told me that the conditions they got where “Very windy and freezing cold”… So far all we had got was “zero to light wind and quite warm humid conditions”. We weren’t going to get freezing temps and so far the wind had been minimal. It’s been the wettest summer in the Dolomites for 30 years and despite a number of professional climbers stating they would be out trying “Bellavista” now, they hadn’t shown up on account of the weather… I basically decided that the best I would get was what I had already been experiencing, and although it wasn’t completely terrible (i.e. the route wasn’t soaking wet), it wasn’t ideal. On Day 4, I made some good links and realized that if I broke through the first 15m of climbing of the 55m pitch, then in reality, if I tried hard enough and pushed on through it, I could climb the remaining 40m even in bad conditions… I would just have to try BLOODY HARD!!!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC00030.jpg)At the belay of the crux pitch... CHECK OUT THAT ROOF!!!We had a day to rest; I said to Logan that I felt it might just be worth having an attempt to free from the ground on the assumption that all I needed to do this thing was the pressure to send! I already felt that I was holding Logan back slightly with this route as he wasn’t trying the crux anymore, just belaying me… Both of our ambitions to climb the route relied on my ability to climb the pitch, and I knew it was possible; the only thing holding me back was myself… I needed to be put on the spot, I needed to have to do the pitch, not just to prove I can do it, but to actually be in the situation where when I do it, we keep busting through the upper pitches to the top of the wall!

We spoke about what the best approach would be for us to climb the route… I wanted to have the full tick, i.e. to free every pitch, but on the actual send to swing leads and for me to climb the pitches that we both felt made the difference to claiming the individual free ascent of “Bellavista”. In my eyes, that was by leading pitch 1 (7b), Pitch 6 (8c) and Pitch 7 (8a). I had already lead the other pitches free onsight anyway and I didn’t feel they had as much to offer as those three in particular. So it was decided that I would lead those on the day and Logan would lead the rest. I ended up linking pitch 1 (7b) and 2 (6c) together and Logan linked pitch 3 (6a), 4 (7a) and 5 (7a+) together.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC00006.jpg)Logan getting excited at the belay...For me, there really was only two pitches that I was worried about (the 8c and the 7b). Pitch 7 (8a) was actually very easy, I thought it felt like a low-end 7b+. There was one tricky move after a huge rest and then it was good holds the rest of the way. Pitch 1 (7b) I was really nervous about... The 7b pitch was scary; it had a 10m run-out to the first piece of gear (a rusty peg) then more run-outs between more rusty pegs (all suspect and one of which I know already wouldn’t hold a fall). Not to mention the rock quality here is terrible… foothold and handholds crumble off practically every couple of moves, you basically just can’t trust anything completely. Finally, the crux is a bit of a lunge around a small roof which you get to via a run-out from a very bad peg that pops out if you so much as look at it the wrong way… the rock quality in the roof is the worst on the route and I must have sent a good few kilos of choss down on Logan when I was on my lead here. Climbing this pitch for me was probably the toughest mental battle I faced on the whole climb… I knew in some places that if I fell… it wasn’t going to be a learning curve… Falling at the roof would be a bad fall if that peg snaps. But I think I learned more about myself climbing that pitch than any other climb I have ever done… I discovered what I can handle and what the potential for me to do in that style is.

After leading that very scary 7b and the following 6c, I was amped up for the crux pitch but still had to wait for Logan to follow me up and for him to lead the remaining few pitches, then I would follow him on second. Logan breezed through these alright but the conditions weren’t the best and both the 7a and 7a+ pitches were pretty wet… I followed him with a rucksack on with all our gear and was finding it a really intense warm up for before the crux pitch. I managed to get through but took a fall on the 7a+ when my hand slipped out a massive wet jug just before the chains! So I lowered down and repeated that pitch again just so I could claim the whole route free…

We were now at the belay of the 8c pitch… I wasn’t really nervous, I was psyched for giving this thing my all! I went up once just to pad out the holds with a fresh layer of chalk as the conditions on the first section were pretty bad. It definitely wasn’t what I was expecting for a sending try, but I knew it wouldn’t get any better, so I just had to try bloody hard! I attempted to replace a broken pin that I had fallen on after the crux from a previous day but unfortunately the sky hook failed and I took a big fall onto another suspect pin… Nervous enough as it was, I decided not to risk that again and came back to the belay.

At the belay, I took a 5 minute break, joked with Logan a bit and got myself prepared for the attempt… I was going through the sequences in my head, I had it all dialed… I knew if I got through the first crux, then I could get through all the next section as well.

And so… I went for it!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC00083.jpg)That is a LONG way down...I climbed through the initial traverse section easily, it wasn’t hard, just damp. I wasn’t going to fall off here anyway, but the dampness of the holds doesn’t help for the upcoming crux sequence on smaller sloppier holds. I rested up on a couple of 3 finger pockets before committing fully on for the first part of the crux! I managed to break through and before I knew it, I was resting on a jug pocket and positive crimp. I shook here a few times… the next section was the boulder. Only a couple of hard moves, but the holds are quite small and very damp. I had fallen here a few times before when my hand would just slip of them without warning. I was slightly nervous about doing this sequence because I didn’t really want to have to go back to the beginning to repeat this all again, but I knew in my heart that if I committed fully, I would be able to break through this as well! I committed… I was quick, I took the pinch hard, through my feet out right, pressed the small gaston and screamed as I went for the jug! BOOM! I had it and I was pulling up to rest at the next big jug.

This was my moment… I knew it! I had one opportunity here to take this to the end and to successfully free this pitch. I shook out here for about 5 minutes, just trying to get as much back as I could. The jugs were damp, but on each chalk up and shake, the jug would feel slightly better to hold onto. I got everything back in that time and I just had to hold it together for the next section.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC00033.jpg)Hi... from the Dolomites :) Postcard Perfect!I pressed on into the headwall of crimps pockets… I was moving confidently despite the insecurity of wet feet and damp handholds. I knew I wasn’t going to be getting anything back if I started to over grip or distrust my feet, so I just focused on giving them all my weight where needed and hoping that my body tension would hold them in the right place.

I broke through the next crux! This was a relief because it was the once place after the main crux here I felt I really could fall… I continued the progression and made it further and further along the wall. Occasionally I would do a committing move and scream for it just for that added confidence to my movement, every time I was successful! I soon came to a mega rest where I did a heel toe lock and could hang of backwards, hands free hundreds of feet in the air… The liberating feeling of hanging upside down from one of the most exposed pieces of rock I have ever been on, hundreds of feet from the ground was amazing! You feel like you are flying up there… I felt all my energy come back to me after a few minutes. I was fresh again and ready for the upcoming technical cruxes. I was about 15m from the chains now, it was almost over and I had never fallen off this section before on link.

I ran through the next sequence of moves in my head, then committed! The moves flowed and I was flowing with them… everything felt easy and I was making sure I was continuing to trust my feet. There was one move to a jug where I moved dynamically for it and accidentally punched it, but latched on as I fell back… close! I rested up again… 5m to go!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC00084.jpg)Freezing cold at the Bivvy... COLDEST NIGHT EVERRRRRR!!!!!I felt good and went for one last burn… the last 4m… 3m… 2m… I saw the chains… I pressed a gaston crimp, the index finger broke of a small chunk… SHIT! I matched it with my right hand… the pinky broke of something else… SHIT!!! I shifted my weight out left on some small crossly feet… I had run it out here skipping the last 2 pegs and was looking at at least a 10m run-out since the last rusty peg… I reached out and grabbed a slot in the wall, turned the right hand into an undercut and clipped the chains! I grabbed the rope chains, through my arm around them for added security and clipped hard into the bolts! YASSSSSSSSSS!!!! I screamed! I was howling with happiness! I heard Logan screaming back and even a few dots from the ground screaming stuff up at us hahaha! I couldn’t believe I had done the pitch…

Logan followed up on second, we were celebrating at the belay shortly before I decided to lead the next 8a pitch. I tied in and went for it straight away and managed to dispatch quickly without much effort (it’s probably only 7b+ anyway).

This was where the EPIC started… We accidentally went the wrong way and after an 8m run-out on terrible rock and no sign of gear, we realized something was wrong. We spent an hour trying to find the way before I decided to try traversing onto the Swiss route out right. The Swiss route was 10m off and we couldn’t see any gear apart from that of the Swiss route, but I decided that that was better than climbing into the unknown… However, about 5m into the traverse, I found a peg and felt happier knowing that somebody had done this traverse before hahaha I realized soon after that this was the way we were supposed to go and was confidently moving upwards on 7a-ish climbing.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DoloLightning.jpg)We reached the bivy ledge shortly before a huge thunderstorm hit us… The rain was heavy and the thunder and lightning was terrifying! Logan and I huddled together for warmth and survivial from 7pm to 5am the next morning… It was the coldest night of my life! I couldn’t feel my legs the whole time and at one point I was seriously wondering how likely it would be to ever feel my toes again…

In the morning, the rain had stopped, but the wind was strong and the waterfall coming over the top of the Cima Ouest had grown over night and become a torrent over our route. We had not much option but to try and escape the route… We traversed under the waterfall getting quite wet, Logan especially as he had to belay under the freezing waterfall as I traversed the chossiest rock I have ever seen. I was searching for a way to abseil off the tower, a good belay point and an obvious line below where another route might be coming up. After traversing about 90m rightwards along a loose, chossy and scary runout ledge system, we eventually reached a decent belay and made three double rope abseils off the tower. When I finally touched the ground, I felt like kissing it!

Although we hadn’t summited the tower, we had accomplished something amazing for us and we were overjoyed to be able to revel in our experience back at the refugio with a nice warm cooked lunch!

This experience has left me with no doubt in my mind that this style of climbing leaves something with you unlike that of any single pitch climb. Its a true battle with your body and mind. You have to be strong enough to do the route, mentally strong enough to deal with the fear, but more than anything, you have to have the undying will power to keep going despite what happens. When the shit hits the fan and things get dangerous, you have to be clever and decide what its worth. It’s not like giving up is even an easy option in any case, because escaping the route in bad conditions can be as hard as summiting. We were lucky when we traversed the right way and found the belays… but we might also have been unlucky… if we hadn’t had found them, we would be in a much worse scenario… If we had decided to press on the night before in an attempt to summit, we would probably be climbing in the dark in a thunderstorm and even if we reached the top, we would be wet, freezing, and spending the night up there with no way of getting down before 5am!

I was strong enough to do the route which is a product of my training over the years, but equally, I am not an experienced alpine climber and I need to do more of this before I can really make a mark in this field (something I am really psyched about). I am very happy that Logan was with me on this route, I don’t think I could have done it without him and I am really psyched that we did this as a team… Hopefully the first of many future adventures in the alpine…

What’s next?  Well we are in Zillertal now sport climbing and trad climbing. We want to do the trad finger crack line “Ganja” 8a+ which will be my hardest trad route and my first ever finger crack haha I also tried “Love 2.1” (8c+) which I was really keen to work. I felt like it was a good route for me to do here and that it would go down quick after a couple more sessions on it, but unfortunately there was not as lot for Logan at that crag, so I have left it for another trip. We are now planning a few more days here in Zillertal to finish of the crack project and visit a couple more crags before heading to Grindelwald in an attempt to summit the Eiger and to climb one of the mega routes up the North Face. If we are lucky then the weather will be on our side… So far it has not…

Wish us luck everyone :D

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0251.jpg)“The strength of the team is each individual member. The strength of each member is the team.” ? Phil Jackson

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Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: On the 5th Day... BELLAVISTA
Post by: comPiler on August 15, 2014, 04:30:03 pm
On the 5th Day... BELLAVISTA (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/on-the-5th-day-bellavista.html)
9 August 2014, 9:54 am

Bellavista



Well… Long story short… Logan and I were successful in our attempt to free one of Europes toughest multi-pitch challenges and indeed one of the world’s most famous, hard, alpine style rock climbs. But the short story long is a far better tale to tell, so that is what I will tell now…

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0218.jpg)View from our tent ;)We travelled back to the Dolomites after a break in the bad weather would allow us to have a bit more time working the crux pitch. We had only had 2 days on the route so far and it had already seemed very possible to free climb, however the prospect of doing the whole route including all the separate pitches in one single push still felt like it would be a real challenge, and would require us to be on top form, climbing everything exceptionally well and especially to have the crux pitch dialed.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0242.jpg)Chilling out making dinner night before the send...Logan had already decided that for him, it was more about the experience of doing the whole climb as a team and had reserved to take the second on the more difficult pitches to allow me to get the free ascent of those. For me, I wouldn’t really be satisfied with anything other than to free the crux pitches ground up… Alpine climbing is approached very differently than other forms of climbing I feel. It’s not about doing the climb free solely; it’s about getting to the top and experiencing the adventure that the climb takes you on. You can approach alpine climbing with a multitude of varying styles i.e. free, aid, team, individual or mixed ascent. Each has its own merits and are impressive in their own way depending on the route. Also, it varies a lot with the conditions you get on your ascent as sometimes it is impossible to complete free or indeed becomes very dangerous and stupid to attempt if the bad weather hits as is often the case in the alpine environment. You have to learn to take what you get sometimes and if your preferred style of ascent is not possible, then you just have to go with what is the most sensible option…

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0271.jpg)Being in the mountains is where we feel home... My desire was to free the route, climbing the most difficult and personally challenging pitches that I felt made the difference to the overall experience of making the free ascent and of course, to top out on the summit of Cima Ouest.

We spent our third and fourth day simply working the crux pitch, a really tough traverse that was already 6 pitches up on the face, hundreds of feet from the ground, on the most exposed face of the Dolomites and probably one of the steepest sections of multi-pitch climbing in the world! This pitch is famous for being the toughest in terms of technical difficulty of the whole route and has proven to be a stand out test of pure climbing ability compared with the rest of the climb which is relatively easy in technical terms. But saying that… the mental aspect of other pitches is far more demanding… I will go into this later…

So, the idea for day 3 and 4 was for me to become immersed in the crux pitch. To learn it’s secrets and to become comfortable climbing it so that when we went for a full free ascent (which we had scheduled for the Monday, after a rest day from day 4) I would be able to just hit it on command without too much hassle.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC000282.jpg)Leading one of the 7a pitches... As you can see in the background, we are in a cloud!!!What actually happened was that I struggled with the conditions of the rock during those two days. I could link large sections of the crux pitch together, but nearly always I would hold back and not try as hard as I could simply because I was uneasy with the slippy nature of the rock. Unfortunately, the rock up there is very susceptible to humidity and sucks in the moisture becoming almost permanently damp and slimy. It’s the kind of conditions that if you were at a sport crag, you just wouldn’t bother climbing it and you would pass it off for another, better day… However, Alpine climbing is very different and you have to learn to just take what you get.

On the 4th day working the route, we bumped into none other than Dave Macleod who was there scoping out a potential new line and trying the crux pitch of “Panorama”. It was good to chat to Dave briefly about “Bellavista” as he had done the crux pitch with Alan Cassidy on a previous trip, however I was a little dismayed when he told me that the conditions they got where “Very windy and freezing cold”… So far all we had got was “zero to light wind and quite warm humid conditions”. We weren’t going to get freezing temps and so far the wind had been minimal. It’s been the wettest summer in the Dolomites for 30 years and despite a number of professional climbers stating they would be out trying “Bellavista” now, they hadn’t shown up on account of the weather… I basically decided that the best I would get was what I had already been experiencing, and although it wasn’t completely terrible (i.e. the route wasn’t soaking wet), it wasn’t ideal. On Day 4, I made some good links and realized that if I broke through the first 15m of climbing of the 55m pitch, then in reality, if I tried hard enough and pushed on through it, I could climb the remaining 40m even in bad conditions… I would just have to try BLOODY HARD!!!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC00030.jpg)At the belay of the crux pitch... CHECK OUT THAT ROOF!!!We had a day to rest; I said to Logan that I felt it might just be worth having an attempt to free from the ground on the assumption that all I needed to do this thing was the pressure to send! I already felt that I was holding Logan back slightly with this route as he wasn’t trying the crux anymore, just belaying me… Both of our ambitions to climb the route relied on my ability to climb the pitch, and I knew it was possible; the only thing holding me back was myself… I needed to be put on the spot, I needed to have to do the pitch, not just to prove I can do it, but to actually be in the situation where when I do it, we keep busting through the upper pitches to the top of the wall!

We spoke about what the best approach would be for us to climb the route… I wanted to have the full tick, i.e. to free every pitch, but on the actual send to swing leads and for me to climb the pitches that we both felt made the difference to claiming the individual free ascent of “Bellavista”. In my eyes, that was by leading pitch 1 (7b), Pitch 6 (8c) and Pitch 7 (8a). I had already lead the other pitches free onsight anyway and I didn’t feel they had as much to offer as those three in particular. So it was decided that I would lead those on the day and Logan would lead the rest. I ended up linking pitch 1 (7b) and 2 (6c) together and Logan linked pitch 3 (6a), 4 (7a) and 5 (7a+) together.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC00006.jpg)Logan getting excited at the belay...For me, there really was only two pitches that I was worried about (the 8c and the 7b). Pitch 7 (8a) was actually very easy, I thought it felt like a low-end 7b+. There was one tricky move after a huge rest and then it was good holds the rest of the way. Pitch 1 (7b) I was really nervous about... The 7b pitch was scary; it had a 10m run-out to the first piece of gear (a rusty peg) then more run-outs between more rusty pegs (all suspect and one of which I know already wouldn’t hold a fall). Not to mention the rock quality here is terrible… foothold and handholds crumble off practically every couple of moves, you basically just can’t trust anything completely. Finally, the crux is a bit of a lunge around a small roof which you get to via a run-out from a very bad peg that pops out if you so much as look at it the wrong way… the rock quality in the roof is the worst on the route and I must have sent a good few kilos of choss down on Logan when I was on my lead here. Climbing this pitch for me was probably the toughest mental battle I faced on the whole climb… I knew in some places that if I fell… it wasn’t going to be a learning curve… Falling at the roof would be a bad fall if that peg snaps. But I think I learned more about myself climbing that pitch than any other climb I have ever done… I discovered what I can handle and what the potential for me to do in that style is.

After leading that very scary 7b and the following 6c, I was amped up for the crux pitch but still had to wait for Logan to follow me up and for him to lead the remaining few pitches, then I would follow him on second. Logan breezed through these alright but the conditions weren’t the best and both the 7a and 7a+ pitches were pretty wet… I followed him with a rucksack on with all our gear and was finding it a really intense warm up for before the crux pitch. I managed to get through but took a fall on the 7a+ when my hand slipped out a massive wet jug just before the chains! So I lowered down and repeated that pitch again just so I could claim the whole route free…

We were now at the belay of the 8c pitch… I wasn’t really nervous, I was psyched for giving this thing my all! I went up once just to pad out the holds with a fresh layer of chalk as the conditions on the first section were pretty bad. It definitely wasn’t what I was expecting for a sending try, but I knew it wouldn’t get any better, so I just had to try bloody hard! I attempted to replace a broken pin that I had fallen on after the crux from a previous day but unfortunately the sky hook failed and I took a big fall onto another suspect pin… Nervous enough as it was, I decided not to risk that again and came back to the belay.

At the belay, I took a 5 minute break, joked with Logan a bit and got myself prepared for the attempt… I was going through the sequences in my head, I had it all dialed… I knew if I got through the first crux, then I could get through all the next section as well.

And so… I went for it!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC00083.jpg)That is a LONG way down...I climbed through the initial traverse section easily, it wasn’t hard, just damp. I wasn’t going to fall off here anyway, but the dampness of the holds doesn’t help for the upcoming crux sequence on smaller sloppier holds. I rested up on a couple of 3 finger pockets before committing fully on for the first part of the crux! I managed to break through and before I knew it, I was resting on a jug pocket and positive crimp. I shook here a few times… the next section was the boulder. Only a couple of hard moves, but the holds are quite small and very damp. I had fallen here a few times before when my hand would just slip of them without warning. I was slightly nervous about doing this sequence because I didn’t really want to have to go back to the beginning to repeat this all again, but I knew in my heart that if I committed fully, I would be able to break through this as well! I committed… I was quick, I took the pinch hard, through my feet out right, pressed the small gaston and screamed as I went for the jug! BOOM! I had it and I was pulling up to rest at the next big jug.

This was my moment… I knew it! I had one opportunity here to take this to the end and to successfully free this pitch. I shook out here for about 5 minutes, just trying to get as much back as I could. The jugs were damp, but on each chalk up and shake, the jug would feel slightly better to hold onto. I got everything back in that time and I just had to hold it together for the next section.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC00033.jpg)Hi... from the Dolomites :) Postcard Perfect!I pressed on into the headwall of crimps pockets… I was moving confidently despite the insecurity of wet feet and damp handholds. I knew I wasn’t going to be getting anything back if I started to over grip or distrust my feet, so I just focused on giving them all my weight where needed and hoping that my body tension would hold them in the right place.

I broke through the next crux! This was a relief because it was the once place after the main crux here I felt I really could fall… I continued the progression and made it further and further along the wall. Occasionally I would do a committing move and scream for it just for that added confidence to my movement, every time I was successful! I soon came to a mega rest where I did a heel toe lock and could hang of backwards, hands free hundreds of feet in the air… The liberating feeling of hanging upside down from one of the most exposed pieces of rock I have ever been on, hundreds of feet from the ground was amazing! You feel like you are flying up there… I felt all my energy come back to me after a few minutes. I was fresh again and ready for the upcoming technical cruxes. I was about 15m from the chains now, it was almost over and I had never fallen off this section before on link.

I ran through the next sequence of moves in my head, then committed! The moves flowed and I was flowing with them… everything felt easy and I was making sure I was continuing to trust my feet. There was one move to a jug where I moved dynamically for it and accidentally punched it, but latched on as I fell back… close! I rested up again… 5m to go!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC00084.jpg)Freezing cold at the Bivvy... COLDEST NIGHT EVERRRRRR!!!!!I felt good and went for one last burn… the last 4m… 3m… 2m… I saw the chains… I pressed a gaston crimp, the index finger broke of a small chunk… SHIT! I matched it with my right hand… the pinky broke of something else… SHIT!!! I shifted my weight out left on some small crossly feet… I had run it out here skipping the last 2 pegs and was looking at at least a 10m run-out since the last rusty peg… I reached out and grabbed a slot in the wall, turned the right hand into an undercut and clipped the chains! I grabbed the rope chains, through my arm around them for added security and clipped hard into the bolts! YASSSSSSSSSS!!!! I screamed! I was howling with happiness! I heard Logan screaming back and even a few dots from the ground screaming stuff up at us hahaha! I couldn’t believe I had done the pitch…

Logan followed up on second, we were celebrating at the belay shortly before I decided to lead the next 8a pitch. I tied in and went for it straight away and managed to dispatch quickly without much effort (it’s probably only 7b+ anyway).

This was where the EPIC started… We accidentally went the wrong way and after an 8m run-out on terrible rock and no sign of gear, we realized something was wrong. We spent an hour trying to find the way before I decided to try traversing onto the Swiss route out right. The Swiss route was 10m off and we couldn’t see any gear apart from that of the Swiss route, but I decided that that was better than climbing into the unknown… However, about 5m into the traverse, I found a peg and felt happier knowing that somebody had done this traverse before hahaha I realized soon after that this was the way we were supposed to go and was confidently moving upwards on 7a-ish climbing.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DoloLightning.jpg)We reached the bivy ledge shortly before a huge thunderstorm hit us… The rain was heavy and the thunder and lightning was terrifying! Logan and I huddled together for warmth and survivial from 7pm to 5am the next morning… It was the coldest night of my life! I couldn’t feel my legs the whole time and at one point I was seriously wondering how likely it would be to ever feel my toes again…

In the morning, the rain had stopped, but the wind was strong and the waterfall coming over the top of the Cima Ouest had grown over night and become a torrent over our route. We had not much option but to try and escape the route… We traversed under the waterfall getting quite wet, Logan especially as he had to belay under the freezing waterfall as I traversed the chossiest rock I have ever seen. I was searching for a way to abseil off the tower, a good belay point and an obvious line below where another route might be coming up. After traversing about 90m rightwards along a loose, chossy and scary runout ledge system, we eventually reached a decent belay and made three double rope abseils off the tower. When I finally touched the ground, I felt like kissing it!

Although we hadn’t summited the tower, we had accomplished something amazing for us and we were overjoyed to be able to revel in our experience back at the refugio with a nice warm cooked lunch!

This experience has left me with no doubt in my mind that this style of climbing leaves something with you unlike that of any single pitch climb. Its a true battle with your body and mind. You have to be strong enough to do the route, mentally strong enough to deal with the fear, but more than anything, you have to have the undying will power to keep going despite what happens. When the shit hits the fan and things get dangerous, you have to be clever and decide what its worth. It’s not like giving up is even an easy option in any case, because escaping the route in bad conditions can be as hard as summiting. We were lucky when we traversed the right way and found the belays… but we might also have been unlucky… if we hadn’t had found them, we would be in a much worse scenario… If we had decided to press on the night before in an attempt to summit, we would probably be climbing in the dark in a thunderstorm and even if we reached the top, we would be wet, freezing, and spending the night up there with no way of getting down before 5am!

I was strong enough to do the route which is a product of my training over the years, but equally, I am not an experienced alpine climber and I need to do more of this before I can really make a mark in this field (something I am really psyched about). I am very happy that Logan was with me on this route, I don’t think I could have done it without him and I am really psyched that we did this as a team… Hopefully the first of many future adventures in the alpine…

What’s next?  Well we are in Zillertal now sport climbing and trad climbing. We want to do the trad finger crack line “Ganja” 8a+ which will be my hardest trad route and my first ever finger crack haha I also tried “Love 2.1” (8c+) which I was really keen to work. I felt like it was a good route for me to do here and that it would go down quick after a couple more sessions on it, but unfortunately there was not as lot for Logan at that crag, so I have left it for another trip. We are now planning a few more days here in Zillertal to finish of the crack project and visit a couple more crags before heading to Grindelwald in an attempt to summit the Eiger and to climb one of the mega routes up the North Face. If we are lucky then the weather will be on our side… So far it has not…

Wish us luck everyone :D

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0251.jpg)“The strength of the team is each individual member. The strength of each member is the team.” ? Phil Jackson

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Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Crack Addiction and Pockets
Post by: comPiler on September 04, 2014, 07:00:33 am
Crack Addiction and Pockets (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/rock-climbing/crack-addiction-and-pockets.html)
26 August 2014, 12:45 pm

After all the excitement of having climbed “Bellavista”, Logan and I gave ourselves a little bit of a rest from the alpine environment and headed instead for some apparently, more relaxing sport climbing adventures in Zillertal, Austria.

The reason I say “apparently” is because relaxing was not the best way to put our time in Zillertal… It was always raining when we were there, the camping situation wasn’t the best and Logan was having a bit of a hard time on the tough granite (Schist) style. We just felt dirty the whole time, something I have gotten quite used to on climbing holidays, but it does get a bit old after a while… it is nice to be in a proper campsite that caters for your basic needs such as warm showers, toilets, wifi… (not sure if that last one qualifies?).(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0011.jpg)

The rain was starting to depress us slightly. We would have a decent one day window before the heavens opened sometime in the afternoon and we’d get washed out. Then of course the next day was generally completely wet or the crags would be really humid. It didn’t really stop us climbing too much, but it would have been nice to have some better conditions to climb in.

We had a couple of days at an excellent crag called “Ewige Jugrunde”, a place where I am going back as soon as I get a chance. I tried an 8c+ there called “Love 2.1”. Although I only had two goes on it, I felt it coming together quickly and despite the bad conditions, I could link large sections of it together and felt that within another day or so, I would be able to do it from the ground and be aiming for the send! Unfortunately, Logan was having less of a good time here… We discovered that Zillertal tends to favour those with superior climbing abilities and technique… hahaha no only joking… we discovered that Zillertal favours those who are a little taller than 156cm (Logan’s height). Despite that, Logan never once doubted the quality of the climbing in question… only how God obviously hates him and designed this place to torment him…(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0054.jpg)

At Ewige Jugrunde, we also did a few other awesome climbs, one of which was a 7a+ on the right, which we warmed up on. “Warm Up” is a choice phrase for this; I would have said it felt more like “Taking to Boiling Point”! I was almost off in one section and then again felt really unsteady at the second crux… First time I have felt this on a 7a+ in a long time! Logan began his “attempt” which swiftly ended at the first crux . This was followed shortly after with flying curses and swear words at the route (always a funny reaction climbers have to an inanimate blank face of rock). We’ve all been there :P

I then tried an 8a to the left very briefly after Logan had left his quickdraws from the previous day. I tried to flash it, but was quickly denied about mid-way through the crux. It took me about 20 minutes to figure out how to get through it semi-gracefully. Apart from being a classic, this route was bloody desperate and I am eager to return to send it next trip!

We then tried a 7c on the left that I think might be the hardest 7c on earth! I did it on my 2nd go, but holy crap its hard to read! Logan had about 5 or 6 goes in total. He has done 8b quicker than that!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0175.jpg)We then both sent a 7c+ on the right, Logan managed it 2nd go and I onsighted it. This felt about two grades easier than the 7c (but it was longer and more endurance based) and with no moves anywhere near as hard as the 7a+ I was relieved to find out.

That was when we left Ewige Jugrunde. I am really keen to return as soon as possible for “Love 2.1” :D Anyone keen for any Austrian adventures?

 

Learning to Crack Climb… on 8a!



My experience of trad crack climbing is limited to the hand jam at the end of ‘Ethiopia” (8a+) in Arapiles, Australia. That is about as much crack as I have done… and none of the drug sort either!

Logan and I spied that there was a sick looking finger crack hidden within the valley somewhere called “Ganja” (8a). When we found it, we were in awe of how pure the crack was… It was a single line up an almost blank, dark face of Granite. There was literally one face hold in 8m of crack, the rest was just the fissure line before topping out.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0274.jpg)We were both pretty excited about the prospect of trying something so wildly different and as soon as we had a break in the weather, we “cracked” out the trad gear and threw a top rope down it to inspect the gear placements and try the moves. As this was my first ever crack climbing experience, I was really eager to learn the techniques. I discovered early on that crack climbing is vastly different to face climbing (what I am used to). It was really bloody hard for me! It took me ages to figure out a good sequence and for what was graded 8a, it felt a lot harder initially!

After about an hour or two of trying the moves with copious amounts of tape wrapped around my fingers, I was starting to feel how possible it was to climb such a seemingly thin crack. The only unfortunate business was that my fingers were getting torn up in the crack and my hands needed a rest to regrow some skin. So Logan and I opted for a rest day before we would hit “Ganja” again for one last attack!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0272.jpg)We decided that as the conditions were so bad in the alps and the Eiger was looking increasingly unlikely for a decent attempt within our time frame, we would move base to a different climbing area away from the mountains. Frankenjura was somewhere Logan and I had never been before and was high on the tick list of places to visit, so it made sense seeing as it was only a few hours drive away. We went climbing at the Bergstation crag in Zillertal in the morning and headed to “Ganja” in the evening. I felt strong on the day, I climbed an 8b+ called “Elements of Addiction” on my second try, only working it as a warm up. I actually think I could have flashed this with the beta! Logan tried an 8a+ but the conditions at the crag where not great, as it had rained all night, a lot of the crag was wet and there was high humidity in the air… The rock was very soapy and the holds on the 8a+ were not working for Logan, so he stripped it and we left for “Ganja”.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0283.jpg)Paul Steinig on "Witchcraft" (8a+)When we arrived at “Ganja”, we found the route in perfect condition, apart from a really wet part of the crack right at the start. We chalked it up loads and tried our best to dry it, but it never worked that well. Logan went for an attempt and did really well, breaking through the first crux and falling right at the very top after the point he felt he would not fall off after. It was really unlucky, but a good attempt nonetheless. I then went for an attempt, similarly to Logan, I did really well and even got further than Logan again making the jug crack at the top! I was only a move off topping out when my foot slipped on one of the smeary footholds and I came flying off! This was frustrating, especially as I had used up a lot of skin jamming my hands and fingers in the crack all the way up the wall. I knew I could repeat this effort again, so I chilled out for a bit and belayed Logan on his next attempt. Unfortunately, Logan never faired as well as he had on his first attempt. Now he was struggling getting past the first few moves… The crack he was using was damp and he kept slipping out of it. He was getting more and more frustrated and I could tell it wasn’t good for him. Eventually he decided to sack it off and not bother trying… I figured he just needed to have a rest overnight and try again the next day, but it was also due to rain and we had planned to move to Frankenjura the next morning.

I felt a lot more rested now and decided to give it a 2nd go for that session. The crack felt even harder now, but I was absolutely determined to do it! I stuffed one finger into small pod at the third move, locking off deep, this allowed me to place a high nut into the crack (my first piece of gear). I found this first boulder crux the hardest physically. The mono ring finger jam was painful and a deep lock took me to a high sidepull jam that I couldn’t quite get to work properly, it always felt like it was slipping out.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/robbie-totalbrutal.jpg)Thanks Jacopo Larcher for this awesome photo :)

This was scary for me as my ring finger jam was solid and even quite difficult to get out once I was stood up. The smeary feet felt insecure and I was worried that if I slipped, my ring finger would remain where I left it i.e. inside the crack! Luckily, I never slipped and I managed to lock off into a crimp on the side of the crack. The rest of the climbing was really insecure for me; the jamming was never perfect, largely due to the lack of experience more than the holds, but nevertheless I pressed on and somehow managed to get to my previous high point. This time I was determined not to let it slip away, and soon enough I had latched the final jug hold and mantled out on top of the large boulder. I was so relieved to have sent the route on this try but more so satisfied with just having climbed the crack in the first place! It was such a wild style of climb and for me, and introduction to new potential climbs and adventures in this style J

Frankenjura – Land of Pockets, Beer and Cakes



(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0287.jpg)The Action Directe!Frankenura is a fabled land in climbing… It was here that some of the worlds hardest routes have been put up in the past. By legendary climbers such as Wolfgang Gullich, Kurt Albert, Jerry Moffatt and others… It is in Frankenjura that the world’s first 9a, “Action Directe” resides, and visiting this amazing route was more for me a history lesson than a climbing experience.

On our first day, we visited two crags. One of them was to try an 8c I had heard was really good called “Raubritter” and the other was to an easier crag where we climbed an 8a+ called “Witchcraft”. I did “Witchcraft” on my 2nd go. I had a flash attempt but didn’t feel warmed up and when I arrived at the final moves, I didn’t really want to pull hard on the pockets and gave a half-hearted attempt at making it to a two finger pocket. Logan was really strong in this style and was close to doing “Witchcraft” on his first day, but needed in the end a second day and a few more attempts to lock in the send.

On our second day, I did the famous 8a+ called “Slimline” next door to “Action Directe”, the world’s first 9a! Being at this crag was pretty special; to look up at “Action Directe” and to realize how much effort had gone into doing this piece of rock by Wolfgang Gullich was pretty inspiring. There were walkers in the woods watching us climb and I felt a little bit of hilarity thinking that these people didn’t realize that what they were looking at was actually one of the world’s hardest routes and a piece of climbing history.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0295.jpg)Paul and Logan Duelling for the next go on "Slimline"“Slimline” was an awesome route and pretty hard for me. It took me 3 tries in total but I had to work hard on my 3rd attempt. It’s funny because usually 8a+ doesn’t feel this hard… in fact 8b+ doesn’t usually feel this hard hahaha but that just goes to show you how style has such a big impact in climbing. Climbers are too obsessed with being the best in every style and it is just impossible! On this trip I have climbed 8c multipitch in the alpine, 8b+ on granite in a day, crack climbed granite 8a, runout scary trad pitches on dodgy rock and climbed 8a+ pocketed limestone (so far). Every one of those is vastly different from the next and requires a huge range of skills, few of which I would say I am good at. It’s just impossible to always be on top form in every discipline, but I do have problems telling myself this… I want to be doing the best in all disciplines and styles at the same time and it’s just not possible.

I knew full well that I would struggle with the style in Frankenjura. Bouldering on pockets is probably my weakest style and that is essentially what Frankenjura is all about. Most of the routes are very short and the difficulty of climbing resides largely in being able to pull hard on shallow three, two and one finger pockets with bad feet. Of course weaknesses are meant to be trained and it’s only by visiting these crags that we learn how really weak we are, this is what gives us motivation to train and improve. Also to learn how strong climbers such as Alex Megos, Wolfgang Gullich, Jerry Moffat and my friend Felix Neumarker actually are. What they have achieved in Frankenjura blows my mind and inspires me to push harder and train harder than ever to achieve my goals!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0298.jpg)The Magic of the ForestI am psyched now to get stuck into some serious training when I am home and hope that it will prepare me well for my upcoming projects and for maybe a trip back to Frankenura in 2015 :D

Post Blog Update: In my remaining days in the Frankenjura I climbed a few more classic routes in the 7c-8a+ region including a classic boulder-esque 8a+/b “Masterblaster”. This was interesting as it has the slash grade and for me was easier than most of the other 8a+’s that were considered low in the grade! “Masterblaster” is short, powerful and the only pockets are a split two finger that’s juggy enough to clip and shake from… Looks like I’m gonna be training the pocket strength a lot more from now on!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/DSC_0300.jpg)                            Leaving Frankenjura... for now :)

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Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: The Transition - Where is it I am going?
Post by: comPiler on February 04, 2015, 12:00:56 am
The Transition - Where is it I am going? (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/rock-climbing/the-transition-where-is-it-i-am-going.html)
3 February 2015, 11:23 pm

 

A lot of people have been confronting me recently on my apparent change of focus to trad climbing. For those of you who don’t know, I would probably be regarded as a “sport climber” if you were to file me into a category… and I definitely wouldn’t disagree here as sport climbing is what I have primarily done up until recently.

The real answer to the question, “why the sudden change?” is actually not that difficult to comprehend. In fact the route to this question stems from the reasons why I started climbing in the first place… Challenge!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/On_The_Rocks_ukc_.jpg)Me climbing "On The Rocks" E7 6c (Photo by Russell Lovett)I have learned more about myself from climbing than anything else I have done. Climbing has brought me so much in life… travel, experiences, friendships and a pathway. And climbing has brought me to one ultimate understanding… I need challenges or I get bored :P

After climbing “Bellavista” in the Dolomites last summer with Logan Barber, I found myself back in my usual routine at home… training, coaching, setting and looking forward to the next sport-climbing trip abroad. Something was different though and I wasn’t totally happy with my situation. I found myself thinking back to the experiences I had climbing “Bellavista”; being up there in the mountains, the exposure whilst climbing hard, the fear, the thrill and everything that goes along with being pretty out there on a climb whilst trying to push your limit! It really was the ultimate experience and everything else felt so dull in comparison…

I went on a jaunt to Rodellar with a hope that I could rekindle that burning flame J It was a fun trip of course, I was with good friends and I was climbing well… but still it felt a little off, not quite what I was accustomed to. Everything was so easy out there… You get up, make your lunch, go to the crag, clip some bolts, come home, have dinner, watch a movie, go to bed, sleep, repeat… The formulaic approach to the comfortable sport climbing lifestyle just didn’t exhilarate me as much as it had done before. I still absolutely loved the experience of climbing hard sport routes, but I did know that what “Bellavista” gave me was more than just a tick in the guidebook and another grade to add to the list; it was an experience that I will cherish for the rest of my life, it shaped me and made me grow more than any experience I have had in a long long time.

When I came home I did some soul searching… I asked myself deep questions. The truth is that none of the questions can really be answered, but they can be pondered. I think it’s good to ponder about life and choices from time to time as it provides some form of clarity or “feeling of direction”. One of the many questions I asked myself was “Why I climb”? This is an easy one at first glance; because I enjoy it! Simples! However, when I dug deeper I found the answer was a little more complicated as I wanted to understand what I derive my pleasure in climbing from.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/10872743_338597262994128_7146833000556793720_o.jpg)Deil's Head

In the past I have taken great enjoyment in the experiences I have had when training for a project, sending a project, travelling, meeting new people, making friendships and more recently undertaking a monumental goal to accomplish something really BIG! The social experiences I have in climbing are incredible and to be honest don’t really change so much between what activities you partake in whether its at a wall or at a crag. However the challenges of the climbs I do was an obvious element to look into and what became very apparent was that I gained most enjoyment from overcoming incredible obstacles! Many of these obstacles took the guise of mental barriers such as “Fear” (in one form or another).

“Bellavista” scared me… but I overcame it! I made decisions on that wall to fight rather than give in, to go rather than stop and basically to end a battle with my mind one way or another!

I realized that I needed new stimulation, a new arena to fight in and something else that offered more than just a wall to figure out the sequence and fight my way through it. I still have much to learn and improve upon in the arena of hard sport climbing, but I decided to look into testing myself at trad climbing with a view to preparing myself for some bigger more adventurous stuff at a later date.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/1799187_338597242994130_1848859979665991994_o.jpg)Neil working the moves on "Deil Or No Deil" (E8 6b)So that’s it, I have started my trad apprenticeship officially in 2015 :D It’s been a good January of getting into it. I have made a few trips down to Northumberland where with friends I have made some fun head-point ascents of known classics such as “On the Rocks” E7 6c, “Off the Rocks” E8 6c and even took a belter of a fall from “Peak Technique” E6 6b. The other amazing experience I had recently was my first ever trad first ascent alongside one of the key inspirations in my climbing life, Neil McGeachy. Together we climbed the “Deil’s Head” on the Arbroath sea cliffs on trad gear, a line that hasn’t been freed before and we head-pointed it giving it E8 6b naming it “Deil Or No Deil”.

So far the challenges of keeping a cool head and climbing under pressure have been intriguing to say the least. I am interested to see how I respond to more scary trad routes, how my strength of character on the wall holds up against varying styles of climbs. So far the routes I have done have been less technically challenging and more mentally so, but I am keen to explore what the harder more technical trad climbs offer (albeit being safer). Of course I don’t want to limit my scope and I really do want to diversify and experience all styles, so I am hoping to travel around and make the most of the British trad crags and not to only seek out hard head-points but to challenge my skills as an on-sighter as well. I respect that both styles offer advantages and disadvantages and are equally as impressive in their own way, so I would like to do both.

Of course the ultimate goal is to seek out newer challenges hopefully culminating in some first ascent action in Scotland and beyond :D Looking forward to everything that this year holds with a new step in my climbing development!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/10940583_341997402654114_7231212746082484108_n.png)Neil happy to have topped out on "Deil Or No Deil" FA!!!

Read more (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/rock-climbing/the-transition-where-is-it-i-am-going.html)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: "New Statesman" - British Political and Cultural Issues in the Modern Rock Touching World
Post by: comPiler on March 31, 2015, 01:00:40 pm
"New Statesman" - British Political and Cultural Issues in the Modern Rock Touching World (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/uk-2/new-statesman-british-political-and-cultural-issues-in-the-modern-rock-touching-world.html)
31 March 2015, 10:11 am



The grit was made famous worldwide after the movie “Hard Grit” was released in the late 90’s. Whenever I travel abroad, the moment it becomes obvious that I’m British (which is generally instant), I am queried about grit… Almost as if this island we live on is just one massive gritstone blob bobbing in and out of the sea :P Well I have a confession to make folks, I’ve not really spent much time on the grit… In fact my time on the grit can be narrowed down to half a day at Stanage bouldering and another spent top roping “Flying Buttress”. Saying that I’ve spent a bit of time recently on the sandstone of Northumberland (my local) and although it is finer grain, there are certainly similar characteristics style and rock formation.

What with the history embedded in gritstone, I kind of feel a little bit intimidated by it. You’d think that a bunch of sandy boulders barely 15m high on average surely wouldn’t be that scary? But I think because as I grew up, the reputation of the grit has been so prevalent in the media, it was always this looming rock that would forever feel scary and formidable to me.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/10441434_10152833540204372_4264608818898885355_n.jpg)John Dunne on the FA

Because I have been getting well into my in trad recently, it made sense to take a trip down to the gritstone and get on a couple of the classics. But being me, I always love a challenge and I wanted to jump straight into the deep end! I contacted a friend of mine, Jacob Cook. We had been discussing gritstone plans for a while and on the cards, “Gaia” and “End of the Affair” had been climbs most often mentioned. I had even almost done a trip down for “Gaia” shortly before my Spain (Chulilla) trip, but weather got the better of us.

Jacob recommended “New Statesman” as a good route for me to try… arguably a very big step into gritstone and not what you would call a standard entry level climb, but it’s an amazing line and there is no harm in trying. Jacob had already climbed it and has even added his own harder variation on the same wall.

I really laid on the pressure with “New Statesman”. Committing myself to trying this with basically no gritstone experience and also brought along Euan Ryan (Finalcrux Films) to film the ascent for an upcoming series documenting my climbing adventures. The plan wasn’t to lead it this trip, simply to work it and figure out what I needed to do in order to make a successful ascent. I had more or less said to myself that this would probably take a good few trips to nail and I didn’t want to rush anything!

Working “New Statesman” was certainly an experience of intense learning and adaptation. I discovered many possible ways to climb the route; but what I wanted was a method that delivered success with the least likeliness of pre-sending failures, any of which might have involved broken bones and a swift end to the climbing season for me! So you can understand why I didn’t want to fall off!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11010983_870295196361858_1500038475998005307_n.jpg)Working "New Statesman" sporting my Urban Uprising Tee :D

I played about with the sequences a bit, but by the end of my first day working the route I found my beta after a successful clean top rope from the ground. When this happens, it’s a flurry of emotions… you’ve done the route; all that’s left is to get on the sharp end and climb it “for real”! Not as simple as it might first appear…

I needed a nights rest to ponder my situation. The option to lead it was on the table and I was ebbing strongly in favour for this. The rest of that night I relaxed and had some good fun on my longboard with the guys :D

The next day, it took me the best part of 2 hours to get in the zone; which involved quite a number of false starts. I phoned a friend (Neil McGeachy) for some advice and discussed tactics with Charlie (my belayer). Neil’s advice was simple yet effective… the route would still be here next week. There was no pressure today and to drive home without it would in some ways be a more rememberable experience than to have ticked it off in a weekend. This calmed me down, relieving all pressure and strangely enough I felt hyped up to lead it now!

I had a stare down session with the route; I listened to music and stared at the climb… like an opponent in a duel I approached the climb with deadly seriousness and ambition, I didn’t want to let this beat me, I didn’t want to go away with my tail between my legs. The song “Sleep Forever” by “Portugal. The Man” rung through my headphones…

I stood below the climb reminding myself as I often do of the pointlessness of it all… I am spending hours, days, and years of my life obsessing over rocks, puzzling them out and getting emotional about climbing them; what a silly fool!

On the redpoint I was eerily calm inside… confident in every hand hold, every foot placemen; I knew I could do it! There was no doubt, not even a slither; I had this! As I came to the top of the highball crux section I gave a small power scream to shut out negativity; but that had been killed off long ago!

I rested a bit, then pressed on gaining higher and higher on the climb. It was now feeling quite airy for a boulder, but luckily here comes the comforting gear that famously ripped on Michale Caminati when he fell at the final crux. Staring ahead at the oncoming sequence of smeary unbalanceness above the fated gear that may or may not hold was a curious position to be in; but I was calm… there was nothing that could go wrong! I executed everything precisely and had nothing to fear… and then it was over!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/255274.jpg)On the lead...

Questions cropped up as to why I decided to lead that day. One honest reason is ego… Perhaps it got the better of me? I wanted success and didn’t want to experience a drive back to Edinburgh knowing failure! But that wasn’t the real reason… I think it’s only a feeling you get when you’ve been in this situation but I knew I could do it! In the morning I wasn’t capable of climbing 3m up this thing; and yet after lunch I was impervious to any negative thoughts!

Climbing “New Statesman” for me was a huge step forward in my climbing career. Ego aside (as that’s where I often like to put it), climbing this particular bit of rock was a challenge for me in numerous ways and I learned much from the experience. You can’t put a price on experience and you certainly can’t grade it!

“E” is for “Experience” in this case; not “Extreme” :D

Ethics



One final note goes out in response to some of those who questioned the ethics climbing “New Statesman”.

First of all, my current stance on trad climbing is this:

I think those are some pretty widely accepted notions of what trad climbing is about. I don’t pretend that others will think differently, but from talking to other experienced trad climbers they agree with these points.

I used pads because I figured it would be safer. I’d say that’s reason enough. I am aware that John Dunne didn’t use mats during the FA, but there have been many ascents of this climb since then that have all involved mats. I conclude that my ascent was better or even on par with John Dunne’s… first of all he did it as a FA, so that’s pretty much as good as it gets! And I’m not too fussed if anybody wants to go repeat it with a bed of nails under them, it’s not a competition about who is bolder (but maybe it is for someone?); it’s climbing a rock at the end of the day… anybody who gets off on being the “big man” by climbing a rock in a particular way should probably reassess life goals; but I’m not going to judge too harshly as I have been that same guy many times before.

Ethics are really funny because what was ethically disdained upon 10 years ago; today is common practice. Some of the folk who have been against the use of mats are the same folk who practiced head-pointing when ground up and onsight style was considered standard and head-pointing was considered “cheating”. My take on this is, as time goes on ethics change… it’s really quite simple and a natural progression to the world and not just our meager little past time of clambering about on rocks.

Grades are a big part of climbing in the 21st century, but I like to remember that they are man-made and not essential to life!

If I could get across one thing in this blog post it would be this:

“Last week I climbed a rock. I got to the top. I was happy. Some people liked my facebook pictures. Some did not. The End.”

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/10380130_10152670342146697_5499839606588139972_o.jpg)Spotting Charlie on the E1 solo/highball

Read more (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/uk-2/new-statesman-british-political-and-cultural-issues-in-the-modern-rock-touching-world.html)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Still an "Unfinished Symphany"...
Post by: comPiler on May 24, 2015, 01:00:25 am
Still an "Unfinished Symphany"... (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/rock-climbing/still-an-unfinished-symphany.html)
23 May 2015, 10:55 pm

 

“Unfinished Symphany”



There’s something special about making an ascent of a climb that's  only had a few ascents… I guess it’s like being one of a select group; it makes you feel like “The Big Man”! Sounds like such a ridiculous reason to do anything; but saying that, I think grades are really silly too and a lot of people climb routes for "grades" more than any other reason!

One of the main factors that attracted me to try “Unfinished Symphany” was that I could get a 2nd ascent. I just like the sound of that… it’s not a first ascent, but it still means a hell of a lot for both the 2nd ascensionist and more importantly the 1st ascenisionist! You’re the guy who confirms the difficulty, which is always a point of deep intrigue amongst climbers.

After climbing “Unfinished Symphany”, I was flurried with questions regarding the grade, which only goes to prove how much grades seem to matter to climbers nowadays.

Another main factor to try “Unfinished” was that it was Alan Cassidy’s own addition to Scottish climbing. For as long as I’ve been climbing, Alan has stood out as being one of the top Scottish climbers on the scene, so it’s only natural that I’d be eager to redpoint a “Cassidy Classic”.

My thoughts on the build up to trying “Unfinished” were more along the lines of:


Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Re: Blogs from Robbie Phillips
Post by: SA Chris on May 25, 2015, 08:54:41 am
Now for the extension...
Title: Learning to climb all over again with Beastmaker!
Post by: comPiler on May 28, 2015, 01:00:29 am
Learning to climb all over again with Beastmaker! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/training/learning-to-climb-all-over-again-with-beastmaker.html)
28 May 2015, 12:49 am

 



The Beastmaker Board Comes to EICA

Is it possible that in 10 years of climbing and training; something can come along that totally blows your mind… that re-introduces you to training ideas and concepts… that inspires you and helps you see what is actually possible?(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Beastmaker/11151017_829507673804537_4691702241386751780_n.jpg)Meditating under the Board

Well the answer to this is a resounding… YES!!!

Everyone knows that EICA: Ratho has the best route climbing facility in the UK by a long shot and is, without a doubt, one of the best climbing facilities on earth. The only downside to this amazing centre was that a few years after it opened, they destroyed one of the best bouldering walls in the country (at the time) to make room for offices… bloody offices!!! Who the hell made that awful decision? It has been the black mark on the centre since that day, and really is the only thing that has held the place back from being noticeably the best training facility for climbing. You can’t have a climbing gym without bouldering facilities, especially if it’s an international standard gym!

So climbers at EICA have been left with a mediocre bouldering room and a few really nice, but difficult to train on “feature boulders”.

I have been training with this now for about 10 years and although a good tradesman never blames his tools, I have to say, it does make it more challenging training! Nothing is steeper than about 30 degrees and the wall is covered in features with hardly any space for additional bolt on handholds. The big issue is that because of the lack of space for problems, we tend not to have anything harder than V7 set because most of the problems need to cater for the majority of climbers at the wall.

The first big improvement recently was the addition of an incredible fingerboard hanging station! This is a TRX frame that the guys at EICA doctored to become what I think is the best setup for pure finger strength training I have ever seen :D

But what I want to talk about is not the new hanging station… Nope… it’s our new Beastmaker Board; a 45 degree, 3m wide panel that has been set up with 250 hand carved wooden holds, all of which have been hand placed by Mr Dan Varian himself! We have also included with them a selection of Bleaustone pockets, pinches, crimps and jugs which bring the elitist aspect of the board right down to a healthy V2 level i.e. if you climb V2, you can use the board :) (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Beastmaker/11143547_830911333664171_1674999073359208324_n.jpg)

I have been trying to get EICA to invest in one of these boards for a long time! My wish finally came true when Buz told me there was some money in the budget to put towards improving the training facilities at EICA.

Hearing this news, I instantly emailed Dan and got him to price up the holds/setting. A few months later and he was at the wall, screwing his little heart away, setting up our very own Beastmaker board!

That day when I walked into the centre and saw the board fully set up through the large glass window, a tear came to my eye… The perfectly sculpted holds, the symmetrical patterns… it was like a beautiful butterfly that had transformed from a dirty brown cocoon (aka the board that was there before).

Dan was kind enough to stay for a bit longer and train us in the best way to utilise the board. Now I have been training for years and am rarely told things that surprise me, however there was one thing he discussed that totally changed my perception on one key aspect of my training…(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Beastmaker/11174593_829507920471179_1550408498703244903_o.jpg)Dan giving the Team some tips...

The Beastmaker Board and Core

Dan explained that the key to good core wasn’t in the ability to actually hold a strenuous position like a front lever or L-hang, but actually to be able to transfer the weight/push through the feet in those positions! This is obvious right? I mean, I could have told anyone that; but what I suddenly realized upon getting on the board was that despite knowing the fact, I wasn’t able to implement it on the actual board myself - my feet just kept pinging off all the little foot holds.

The Beastmaker board spanked me… If my feet popped, I was off! If I made a mistake, I was off! There is no room for error on this board, especially with the feet! What you learn quickly is how important the feet are in order to climb these problems, and because of this, it forces your body to learn how to initiate the full strength of your core in a very climbing specific fashion!

I can do front levers fine… I can hold an L-Hang for ages… I can do upside down sit-ups all day… but my feet where popping off! There is obviously a weakness there in the core, but it was a specific weakness, something that would be difficult to target in any other way other than through actual climbing, which is just one reason why the Beastmaker board is such a brilliant piece of kit!

The Beastmaker Board and Technique



It was great having Dan talk us through how to use the board, his opinions on training and how he utilises it for different types of climbing. I have only had the pleasure of training on it these last few weeks, but have noticed a massive improvement since starting.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Beastmaker/11205153_829507993804505_7365608036738958695_n.jpg)Dan giving me some tips...

The angle of our board is 45 degrees - that is very steep! But what that means is that you can’t get away with not having a strong core, strong fingers and utilising good technique all at the same time. As I always say, it’s not how strong you are, it’s how much of it transfers to your actual climbing through technique… this is the trick, and it is this which the Beastmaker Board trains so effectively!

I have heard so many climbers over the years saying that they can’t climb steep rock because they aren’t strong enough… this is definitely not true! Climbing on steep walls is so technical, more so than slabs and vertical walls! There are so many dimensions to steep climbing, so much more so than slab or vertical because there is a time limit set… you can’t hang off your arms all day and because most slabs and vertical walls have less to do with your hands than your feet, that then reduces the problems you have to deal with on the wall already!

I was totally amazed at how good this board is for training technique. Much to the disapproval of other climbers at the wall, I have been utilising techniques such as drop knees, twisting etc… I know that front on training was something that training gurus like Malcolm Smith, Ben Moon and others all pushed, I really just don’t see the benefit for myself though. If I want to develop the strength for front on training, then I will make a problem that forces this, but I just can’t force myself to train front on when that’s not the technique I should be using for other problems…

I will not sacrifice technique on this board; I just don’t see the benefit. Campus boarding is supposed to be a basic pull movement… climbing is not! If I am climbing, I am moving well! I want to learn how to use the strength I have in a productive way and what better way than by building problems that force the technique out of you whilst training strength and power at the same time?

I have learned more about climbing technique using this board in the last 3 weeks than in years climbing indoors and out for that matter… interesting!?

The Beastmaker Board for Power and Strength Training



I am tough on myself, I know this… but I am also realistic about where I am. I know I am not strong; I am weak compared to my technique and endurance. I have always been good at figuring out the easiest way up the climb. I take pride in this, I don’t climb to be good at training, I train to be good at climbing!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Beastmaker/11140219_907904095934301_1326127051584206639_o.jpg)Getting ready for a sesh on the board!!!

I have never been able to do 1-4-7 on a campus board, deadhang an edge of one hand or do multiple one armers. I train these because I know I am weak at them, but still… can’t do 1-4-7!

I did 1-4-7 the other day on the campus board without even training it for the first time! 3 weeks on this beastmaker board and I am feeling strong!!! My fingers just aren’t struggling to hang holds like they usually do…

I did a one armer on each arm like it was nothing… I couldn’t believe how easy it was and I haven’t even been regularly training these?

And on top of all this, I have been climbing my project boulder problems on the board. Every session I have been seeing progress and doing new amazing movements that I thought impossible on first try…

As I said before, this strength and power is all transferable. My core is stronger than it ever has been with no dedicated core training routine… All I am doing is using small footholds and trying not to let my feet pop – it’s reaping incredible results!

Yesterday I did a rings session with Jess and I have never felt so strong on them either. I did muscle ups first of all!!! They were so easy - I never even knew I could do them. I tried ages ago and couldn’t, but I was busting them out like they were nothing at all yesterday. I also beat my personal record on dips and one armer assists with no specific training routine focusing on them, just the Beastmaker Board!

Conclusion



I am more convinced than ever that the right training is always going to be what’s most specific to what your doing… Climbing for Climbing. Obviously there needs to be some de-construction of the actual movement so we can focus on specific areas such as antagonists.

Also it is important no to over-train on these! I can see this being incredibly easy to do. I am going to admit this now, but I have gone and done myself a small finger injury by being overzealous on the board… It’s not the end of the world; I am just going to have to be a bit more careful with my training.

The last 3 weeks have been great! It’s given me an insight into training on boards like these. I have never had access to a facility like this for any length of time and now I am amazed at the progress you can make… at the same time I am really aware of the intensity and that intelligence and patience are required to use these to their full potential in the long run!

I am really excited about how this board is going to help develop the local Edinburgh based climbers… Onwards and Upwards!!!

 

Read more (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/training/learning-to-climb-all-over-again-with-beastmaker.html)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Re: Blogs from Robbie Phillips
Post by: duncan on May 28, 2015, 12:25:21 pm
My core is stronger than it ever has been with no dedicated core training routine… All I am doing is using small footholds and trying not to let my feet pop – it’s reaping incredible results!

Told you so! (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg479085.html#msg479085)

 :P



Title: Silbergeier - 10 Thousand Hours Lead to This!
Post by: comPiler on July 13, 2015, 01:00:39 am
Silbergeier - 10 Thousand Hours Lead to This! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/sil.html)
9 July 2015, 8:36 pm

 

Everyone has dreams, yet few of us ever get to realise them... Some might say it's sad when you have a dream you will never see realised; the aspirations to realise mine is what ends up taking me to places I never would have gone to without them in the first place! So what if I never realise the dream? Well at least I experienced the journey!

This story is a happy ending though; I didn't just go on the journey... I realised the dream!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11719966_10155757442115142_1643621531_n.jpg)The Legendary photo of the no-hands rest on the 7c+ pitch of "Silbergeier"

The Dream I have just spent 7 full days on a 250m high limestone wall attempting to climb one of the world's most famous Alpine multipitch climbs, "Silbergeier".

This climb has been a 10 year dream of mine... Since I first saw the pictures of it, heard the tale of Beat Kammerlander's amazing triumph over this immaculate bullet hard and almost featureless limestone wall and grew up hearing about the even greater challenge of climbing the Alpine Trilogy of which this climb is one third of - it has been in my mind as a climb to aspire to do one day!

A part of me thought that to climb this route would always be a dream... a beautiful one at that, but a dream none-the-less. There is always a leap of faith when you dare to capture a dream like this. What if you fail? What if it all turns to ash in your hands, slipping between your fingers like so many before...

But you can't let the thought of failure stop you, otherwise the dream will never come true. I have been through the process of "dream seeking" before and know through personal failure and triumph that both doubt and fear never help.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11748841_10155757445885142_1041391385_n.jpg)"Silbergeier" takes the really obvious looking barrel feature of this wall

It was born... I decided last year that I wanted to try "Silbergeier" in 2015. It has always been a part of a larger goal to do the "Alpine Trilogy", but "Silbergeier" was always the ultimate of the three!

I needed a partner for the journey but was unsure of any who would be up for the challenge. Whilst in Oz last year, I spoke to my friend Monique Forestier (one of Australia's Top Climbers) about the prospect of such a trip - she was "over the moon" excited!

We kept in touch over the year until finally meeting in Switzerland for the adventure of a lifetime!

Unfortunately we were greeted with very bad weather for the first big chunk of the trip. This meant we had to abandon the Ratikon for drier climates and return when conditions were more suitable. Thankfully the weather got a lot better in the following week and we managed to get a good 5 days on the wall together before Monique had to leave for Australia.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11295881_396947357159118_6166423802305909435_n.jpg)Monique arriving to a wet Ratikon :(

Monique and I made good progress on every pitch as each day progressed; however it became apparent very quicky to both of us just how difficult this route really was! It isn't a case of just slapping a grade next to a pitch and saying "yeah, that's how hard that is" - the climbing is extremely technical, really run-out and super exposed! From my 80 odd 8b-c ascents collected from 10 years of sport climbing... I ain't ever climbed anything like these before!

Sadly Monique had to leave, but I wasn't alone! Thankfully my friend from back home, Willis Morris had decided to join me on the trip and felt satisfied enough just being away from the dreary dreak skies of the motherland to belay me for a few days on a big blue limestone wall!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11749849_10155757445335142_1022406146_n.jpg)Feeling like a mountaineer... in the sunshine... clipping bolts...

The Ascent  Willis spent 2 days on the wall with me before we decided to go for a redpoint. I had had 7 days on the climb and was confident that I could get through the first 4 pitches to the crux 5th pitch, but was unsure of my chances here...

On the day, we got up bright and early, power walked into the crag and jumarred the 200m of static to the base of the climb. Today we would be running of ClifBar products - thank god for them!

I wanted to beat the sun which was coming around fast, so without much rest I ran up the first pitch, a meaty 8b/+ warm up! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/11403127_408217012698819_7996877352677511441_n.jpg)When this guy arrived... things got a bit more crazy!

By the second pitch the sun was closing in on us but it was still quite cool. I managed to clean the 7c+ pitch also despite it feeling about 8a+ and insanely technical and balancy - probably the most intense 7c+ I have ever climbed!

The third pitch was in the sun now but I was desperate to get through this before being burnt alive on the wall! At 8a+ this pitch was no pushover and for me was one of the most intense pitches of the climb. The climbing like all the previous is really technical and very run-out!

There is one more pitch before a resting bivy ledge - this is 7a, but rest assured if I was to grade it at an indoor wall, the locals would be begging the wall manager for my head and demanding an upgrade! Hahaha!

Willis and I sat up camp on the bivy ledge, fortifying our position on the wall with a collection of our layers and shells to sheild us from the 30 degree sun! It only shaded us partly - my ankles were swollen and burnt by the end of that! We stuck it out for 4 hours, baking in the sun before finally the sun passed around the mountain.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/10985915_408243709362816_8375962072528334646_n.jpg)When I was a kid I used to love building forts... Now that I am 25, I still love building forts!

It was finally my time to put the skills to the test... the dreaded 5th pitch! Grades are so subjective so you can't expect anything from the number on these big walls, but for me this pitch was absolutely terrifying! The climbing is extremely technical, the wall is dead vertical to slightly overhung, the holds are visciously small, always sharp and often gnarly razor crimps or shallow serated pockets! Maybe it's just me... I'm 70kg of "muscle + organs" and about 10kg of "flabby bits" give or take a kilo depending on whose feeding me... that's a lot of guy to be hauling up on those small holds!

In not much time at all, I found myself "somehow" working my way through the cruxy bottom half and into the demanding headwall! A nightmare thought appeared in my mind - my friend Manu, a 9a strong German crusher relayed to me his experiences of falling on this section of the climb on three separate occassions from which he had made the full ascent from the bottom completely free... What if I fall here too? Will I have what it takes to come back? Am I good enough to do this?

I blocked out the negativity and focussed on what I was doing - the climbing is all that mattered. One move flowed into the next and I found myself pulling through the crux, not easily, but with intent! I had made it through and was looking into the final daunting traverse of apprehension, insecurity and complete and utter terror! A 7m run-out on smeary feet and upside down hand-holds does that to a person, but somehow the desperation to not have to re-climb that pitch got me through it.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/GOPR0572.jpg)Much like in the Titanic, I felt on top of the world - very happy that I am making progress on each pitch on the send!

Willis jumared up on second and we were celebrating making it through the hardest pitch. All I had left was a 7c+... this pitch is famously known for being the most scary, having a dangerous fall on the crux moves before a final 20m run-out on what I can only describe as "choss chimney direct" - with climbing more akin to caving.

Somehow I sketched my way up this pitch, not gracefully but with intent on not wanting to re-live the stress that pitch 5 causes me but more importantly, not wanting to be helicoptered off the cliff.

The End of a Dream? Topping out on "Silbergeier" was the best day of my life... It's hard to put into words when I speak let alone on paper (or a computer screen), but I will try.

"Silbergeier" was a lifetime ambition of a life dedicated to climbing. A 15 year old boy grew up with this goal as one of the fundamental driving forces behind a life dedicated to climbing. And at 25 years old, the boy has seen it through!

Is this the end of a dream? Not quite... the other two of the "Alpine Trilogy" have yet to be climbed!

 (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/GOPR0577.jpg)

Read more (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/sil.html)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: "Project Fear" - 2nd Ascent!
Post by: comPiler on July 16, 2015, 07:00:28 pm
"Project Fear" - 2nd Ascent! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/rock-climbing/project-fear.html)
16 July 2015, 3:55 pm

Inspiration The Dolomites is without a doubt one of the most beautiful mountain landscapes I have ever visited. The whole of the Tyrol and more specifically, South Tyrol region will always have a place in my heart… I love it here so much! The mountains, culture and climbing combined make for one of the most enthralling locations I have had the pleasure to visit during my time as a climber.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Crux.JPG)Blast from the past - last year on "Bellavista"

Visiting the Dolomites last year was a huge eye opener for me, it challenged my view of climbing and what I really love about the sport. Since climbing here last year, my directions have changed so much and I am having more fun than ever as a result!

Last year I was lucky enough to be here when Dave Macleod first started work on “Project Fear”. On my first day at the Tre Cime, I walked around and saw him dangling up high in the roof, working his way through the immense overhangs, scoping out the direction to which his variation on the wall would take. The weather was terrible that year but despite this both Dave and I managed our respective projects, “Bellavista” for me and “Project Fear” for him.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Project_Fear/11181193_1615094015440285_2215627181486862131_n.jpg)The Mountains at Work

 

Project Fear This year I planned to make a return to the Tre Cime, inspired by the walls and the area and of course “Project Fear”. I must admit, I knew very little about the climb… I am very bad at studying and about the only preparation I did before going to try the route was to check how hard each pitch was on Dave’s blog during the walk in! Willis couldn’t even believe I had never seen the video for “Project Fear” either… I still haven’t!

On our approach we knew that the route started up the “Baur Aid route”, but I had no idea where this was… I took a guess at a random line of pegs on the wall that seemed like it worked it’s way towards the roof and went for that… We were lucky on this occasion and picked the right line.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Project_Fear/10983246_981046708584625_1599546711337225885_n.jpg)Willis after he took a whipper on the 8a+ pitch

When we reached the roofs, Dave’s new route branched out right from the “Baur” taking in two new pitches of climbing before joining with Alex Huber’s 8c pitch on “Panorama”. I was a little nervous approaching the 8a+ pitch as I had just come from the Ratikon where 8a+ is desperate, but actually the style really suited me well. There were lots of options for feet and hands (if they didn’t break off) and I was actually at the last piece of protection on the onsight when a handhold broke as I was shaking out. I was very surprised at how steady the climbing actually was on this pitch – probably because I’d just come from the Ratikon where 8a+ feels more like 8c+ on your first attempt!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Project_Fear/11745599_1615094535440233_7343196905679552672_n.jpg)Getting bomber gear like this is real motivation NOT to fall off!

Willis and I then reached the famous 8c pitch from “Panorama”, the Alex Huber classic. I had one go to work out the moves and was blown away that it didn’t feel too hard. 8c usually feels a lot harder… but this was really steady. We came back for a work session the next day and on my first go, I redpointed the pitch! I was in a state of excitement from the knowledge that I could potentially free the whole route, but also in awe from the position I was in, hanging in a roof hundreds of feet above the ground and the incredible exposure that you only get from walls like this.

Willis and I were excited beyond belief about doing this now, so we opted for a rest day to give us recovery from our first 2 days in the Dolomites…(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Project_Fear/11705523_980923638596932_8300178955471138386_o.jpg)Looking scared is a common occurrence on these walls...

 

The Ascent The night before our first redpoint attempt, a freak thunderstorm hit. I heard the rain battering down hard as I cowered in my van, it sounded awful from inside! Then the thunder and lightning came… all I could think about was how I wish I could have gone for an attempt on the second day!

We awoke at 5am; the rain had ceased but there was dampness in the air and on the walls. Willis wasn’t sure about an attempt that day but I had my heart set already… I had dealt with this last year on my “Bellavista” redpoint and I would do it again on “Project Fear”.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Project_Fear/11060052_409783785875475_6057765220417316564_o.jpg)...but then so is looking AWESOME!!! :P

We started climbing at 6am, the first 100m of relatively easy wall climbing up to 7b+ went down fast! Then the 8a+ pitch came… I was a little interested in how it would feel in damper conditons, but I needn’t have worried; I climbed the 30m pitch in about 10 minutes and before long, Willis was at the belay of the 8c pitch with me.

I wasn’t nervous at all… I have been climbing 10 years now and in that time have been put under pressure enough already to know that when it comes down to the crunch, there’s only one thing you need to do, and that’s climb! Climb for you and you alone, give it your all, and if that’s not enough, then bloody try harder next time!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Project_Fear/11411981_409783755875478_2378849220347396845_o.jpg)Representing the motherland on the 8c pitchI set off into the roof; the holds were greasy and damp, but that was to be expected. The first big move into the crux section I grabbed a positive jug and it was completely soaking wet, a dribble of water ran down my arm… I shook out on the jug knowing full well that it wasn’t doing anything to dry my hands, but it would at least give me a percentage back for the oncoming crux.

I powered through the following moves, one of those awkward sections of climbing when your pulling over the lip of a roof and there is no grace in it whatsoever, but you know that groveling is the only way through it! Through one roof and still another to go, I found a knee-bar and recovered for the final crux, a pocket that was right now full of water! I reached for it and felt it pop as the pressure created by my middle and index finger caused the water inside to explode over my hand… I retreated back into my awkward little shelter under the roof, chalking up again and building courage to just deal with the conditions no matter what! Once again I reached for the pocket, dug deep and pulled the lip of the roof throwing over for a secondary pocket and then finally a thank god jug! (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Project_Fear/11722331_409783789208808_7896210576160970200_o.jpg)Feet off is an important photo to get for any big ascent!

I scrambled up to the ledge where the belay was, made myself safe and screamed so that all the Dolomites could hear me! Much like last year, an echo from the valley returned my call of excitement and relief – a mixture of climbers and on-looking tourists.

Willis followed, jumaring his way to meet me and celebrate. We still had a long way to go but not even another freak thunderstorm could stop me from getting to the summit this time! The climbs that followed were a breeze in comparison to the first half of the route but far less equipped; in a lot of circumstances falls just aren’t optional!

We summited Cima Ovest relatively early at 6pm and were down on the ground by 9pm, both of us exhausted yet still on a high after what we had just done.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Project_Fear/11741224_410460202474500_7720782115200785950_o.jpg)Happy to be at the top... we won't be in 5 minutes when we realise how difficult it is to get back down!

 

Experiences in the Mountains To climb a wall like this in the mountains is a privilege few on this earth get to experience… I love challenge and adventure; so doing these big walls and multi-pitches is the perfect way for me to be at one with myself. I never feel better than when I am up on the wall, leading a hard pitch, feeling the exposure and dealing with the technicalities of the climb… it is my ecstasy in life and I am addicted!

“Project Fear” was a wonderful direct link into one of the most classic alpine rock climbs on earth, “Panorama”. Although it is not a “new” route as it includes only two new pitches; it is a completely obvious direction to take and I am surprised nobody thought of it sooner! Respect to Dave Macleod for seeing the link and for opening the line – I am inspired by this wall and the self exploration climbing it can give you; I am now inspired to seek my own adventures in the mountains as well as following in others footsteps…

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Project_Fear/11751776_1615094958773524_7802944142343633184_n.jpg)

Read more (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/rock-climbing/project-fear.html)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Re: Blogs from Robbie Phillips
Post by: Tommy on July 18, 2015, 10:41:18 pm
What I don't understand, is why is no one saying the 8c pitch isn't 8c? Cummon Robbie, tell us the real deal and stop posing about saying you're climbing 8c's with soaking wet holds :-). Or is everyone too scared to do a downgrade on the Hubers?

Title: Re: Blogs from Robbie Phillips
Post by: Kingy on July 18, 2015, 10:49:27 pm
From what I understand, I think the 8c pitch on Project Fear is a new one leaving Bellavista and Robbie has done the 2nd ascent of it (still could be <8c tho :))

I think the 8c pitch on Bellavista is accepted at 8b+ now after Alex Huber revisited it and said that certain pockets had been chipped/ enlarged somehow since his FA of it.
Title: Re: Blogs from Robbie Phillips
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 19, 2015, 08:55:55 am
Quote from: Kingy on July 18, 2015, 10:49:27 pm
I think the 8c pitch on Bellavista is accepted at 8b+ now after Alex Huber revisited it and said that certain pockets had been chipped/ enlarged somehow since his FA of it.

From what i hear, its pegs coming out and what they leave behind thats made it easier than the said 8c. That and general traffic on the route has probably cleaned it up, etc etc.
Title: Re: Blogs from Robbie Phillips
Post by: a dense loner on July 19, 2015, 09:11:40 am
Excellent blog and pics tho. Almost makes me wish I went higher than 10 ft off the floor, almost
Title: Re: Blogs from Robbie Phillips
Post by: Doylo on July 19, 2015, 10:37:38 am
Quote from: a dense loner on July 19, 2015, 09:11:40 am
Excellent blog and pics tho. Almost makes me wish I went higher than 10 ft off the floor, almost

You mean 5ft  ;)
Title: Re: Blogs from Robbie Phillips
Post by: abarro81 on July 19, 2015, 10:55:14 am
The hard pitch on project fear is the same as Panorama, not Bellavista. I think from the blog we can assume that Robbie doesn't think it's 8c, but doesn't really want to comment explicitly for whatever reason
Title: Chamonix - Grindelwald
Post by: comPiler on August 01, 2015, 01:00:24 pm
Chamonix - Grindelwald (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/rock-climbing/chamonix-grindelwald.html)
1 August 2015, 11:25 am

A Break from Mountains



The last week and a half has been a bit different to the rest of this Summer’s activities of big wall multipitches and mountains.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/chamonix_1/G0010287.jpg)

 

Willis and I drove to Grindelwald from the Dolomites after our ascent of “Phantom der Zinne” on the Cima Grande.

We were meeting up with good friend and professional filmmaker, Euan Ryan (Finalcrux Films). Willis and Euan had a previous engagement to film the “Eiger Paraclimb”, a project lead by Scottish climber Mark McGowan in which he was helping lead three disabled climbers up the west flank of the Eiger - I left the lads in Grindelwald and escaped to sunnier climates in Chamonix (France).

Moving to Chamonix

I love Facebook! I had no climbing partner… one status later and I had three!!! I met up with my new friend Vaidotas (Mr V), a 24 year old Lithuanian climber currently based in London. He was climbing with Duncan Botrill, a strong ex-London based climber and now working for EpicTV in Chamonix! And last in the team was the Belgian, Miss Therese-Marie Becker (TB) who is the bubbliest girl I have ever met! She is currently working as a Social-Media strategist for EpicTV (cool job!).

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/chamonix_1/G0020271.jpg)

Digital Crack

First on the list was to go up the Aguillde du Midi on the Mont Blanc massif and attempt the famous 8a, “Digital Crack”. This is an absolutely incredible granite spire jutting out the line of the Cosmic Arete. The wall is almost completely blank with the exception of the occasional tiny blade-like edge. These are accompanied by a lot of flat smooth granite for smearing your feet on. Luckily the wall isn’t entirely flat; it turns into a groove that you can bridge up making the climbing “not impossible”!

8a isn’t that hard in the great scheme of things, but what isn’t shown by the grade is the pure technicality of granite not to mention the fact that you are 3840m high. Although it’s not “that” high, it should be enough to start feeling some of the effects of altitude.

I managed to climb the route on my 2nd try with V-man on second – Really happy with this as one of my first pure granite climbs in the mountains!

 

Sport Climbing in the Valley

Unfortunately “Digital Crack” was my last mountain adventure during my time in Chamonix. I couldn’t find anyone keen during my stay for mountains, so I was “forced” to go Sport climbing… Woe is me! Hahaha

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/chamonix_1/G0040282.jpg)

The climbing in the valley was actually really good, much better than I had expected. In the week I was there I mamaged to onsight some routes in the 7c-8a range and made several 8b’s on my 2nd try amongst a few 8a+’s as well.

The best part of my time in the valley though was hanging out with the crew. We had so much fun chilling out in the evenings, having sushi nights, eating out, and swimming in the lake; it was far removed from the idea of a dirtbag climbing bum! Maybe I am getting old, but living rough just doesn’t appeal… I’ve gone soft!

 

Back to Grindelwald

I travelled back to Grindelwald to pick Euan and Willis up for the main goal of this trip, “Paciencia” on the Eiger.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/chamonix_1/GOPR0202.jpg)

We have just spent a couple of days together, chilling out in the van, having a days climbing and now we are in the final preparations of getting gear sorted for an attempt when the weather clears. It also turned out that Sasha Digulian arrived on the same day as me with the same goal in mind… this was unexpected and has forced us all to consider more logistics than we expected. However I am sure it will all work out in the end… “Paciencia” might be the hardest rock climb on the Eiger right now, but it’s going to be the most popular over the coming weeks with both of us trying it.

 

There is only one thing to do now and that is to climb….

Wish us luck everyone!

 

 

Read more (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/rock-climbing/chamonix-grindelwald.html)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Patience is bitter, but its fruit is sweet
Post by: comPiler on August 21, 2015, 07:00:35 am
Patience is bitter, but its fruit is sweet (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/rock-climbing/patience-is-bitter-but-its-fruit-is-sweet.html)
6 August 2015, 7:27 pm

Epic on the Eiger

The Eiger, one of the most feared mountains on Earth; its reputation goes before it. Many have died on it’s unforgiving North face but the difficulties of climbing the Eiger is not just in the technicalities of the climbing, but in it’s momentous scale, the rock fall and unpredictability of weather.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/11011673_945932188798158_7324180964895330192_o.jpg)Sorting out gear in Grindelwald before making the EPIC walk up the hill! (Finalcrux Fims)

The Eiger lies just on the tip of the Swiss Alps making it the sentry point for all bad weather and serious mountain storms to gather. It’s difficult to get the Eiger in good condition, most of the time there is a permanent cloud surrounding it; when it’s a sunny 30 degrees in the neighboring town of Grindelwald, it can be a life threatening thunderstorm on the north face!

There are many climbers in history who have made their names on the Eiger with epic ascents of it’s faces, ridges and slopes. In our generation, it’s guys like Ueli Steck, Robert Jasper and Roger Schali who are pushing the boundaries of what is being done up there.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/2924.jpg)Roger Schali (Left), Robert Jasper (Right)

The Eiger and Me

We woke up in the stollenloch (an opening to the train tunnel within the mountain). Our legs ached from the endless hours of persistent walking we did the previous day. It was our second night in pitch-black darkness; inside the mountain nothing gets through! The pressure from outside battered the window of the Stollenloch – I’m amazed it’s survived so long!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/11794616_945935118797865_641655733201577548_o.jpg)The Stollenloch - Climbers have died inside and out of this door (Finalcrux Films)

It’s bloody cold in the morning, my muscles were rigid but I was eager to climb. I crawled through the window and the pressure pushed me back – it’s an ice cold burst of air, but once through the wind stops. I looked up and saw the immense walls of the Rote Fluh (the right hand overhanging walls of the North Face). There was dampness all over it; I could see the walls disintegrating like a giant wet sandcastle. How does anybody climb this? The conditions weren’t in our favour; we would have to wait…

It was a constant waking dream, I didn’t sleep that night… excitement had me! I wanted to be on the face but was dreading that it would still be soaked!

We began climbing at 06:30am…

Leading the first two pitches in the wet was harrowing; long slabs of grey limestone, a few bolts and not much for your hands or feet.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/11794581_945934595464584_6370679180129700997_o.jpg)7b/7c+ Pitch - Grades don't mean anything on this wall (Finalcrux Films)

Around 80m of climbing on wet slippery limestone, a small waterfall and a choss-filled crack and I was standing at the start of the main overhang. The wall above me was huge! Hundreds of feet of steep blank face lay before me; but at least it was dry…

I continued on the lead… I was slowly gaining height as each pitch was freed and I was confident that this was going to be a successful ascent within the next day. Before long we reached the first ledge and were staring up at the hardest pitch… I was so excited as I knew that when I was through this pitch, we would only have a few more before stopping and setting up camp on the large halfway ledge.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/11224496_945934865464557_3957307974233100530_o.jpg)Exposure is what you get on this wall! (Finalcrux Films)

The crux pitch was on a steep orange bulge of beautiful limestone and looked absolutely brilliant to climb on. Moving on this pitch was challenging, the holds were small and sharp and there was some serious exposure, but I managed to get to the belay and rejoiced that it was possible! Above me I heard abseiling and Frank Ketschmann (Photographer) peered his head over…

“Your on the wrong route Robbie… this is Robert (Jasper) and Roger’s (Schaeli) crux pitch of their new route!”

I was devastated… I’d have to abseil down and climb another hard pitch as I was now on the wrong route. My forearms were cramping with every tense of my muscles, the blood in my head was thumping across my temple, this was getting close to my physical maximum for the day.

I began climbing again, this time on the true line of “Paciencia”, but I was too far gone. My fingers were uncurling on every hold, my forearms were involuntarily causing my wrist to curl over and I was blacking out in concentration! I had to get off the wall…

 

It’s Over…

Another long night in the Stollenloch, I had drifted in and out of a decision to head back up there the next morning, but this was going to be my third night on the North Face and my body was not enjoying it. The weather was due to make a serious change but we didn’t know when… Word amongst the climbers on the face was that we had until tomorrow evening to get to the bivy before a thunderstorm might hit the wall.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/11822962_945934375464606_4881450845713967442_o.jpg)I love figuring out the sequences on these blank faces... (Finalcrux Films)

9am the next morning, I feel like a smashed up china vase that someone has glued back together… I’m still in one piece, but definitely broken!

We decide to go for the ascent…

Willis and I make the grueling journey back up the face passing each of the long hard sections of wall we made on the previous day. It feels like ages but it's really only hours ago the previous night that we'd been up here before! Back at the crux belay I feel better than I did the day before but I’m still tired. I sucked it up and began to climb…

Each section rolls by like a dream, my forearms are cramping, my hands are sweating and I can feel the pressure of the unknown weighing in… I have never been this high on the pitch! I see a blank section of rock, reaching for invisible holds I feel something like an edge but it crumbles to dust in my fingertips! Nothing but air and miles of rocky face below me, I dig deeper and reach higher, the forearm cramps up but for some reason it feels stronger… my fingers roll over a solid edge and I pull up – thank god! I mantled over a crumbly shelf, the rock disintegrating as I whaled my body over the top. When I stood up my head hit a roof (ouch) and I notice a bit of old rope hanging between two very comforting bolts!!! I had done it!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/11847229_10152923858042136_1263903707_o.jpg)Life long friendships are forged in the pursuit of Adventure

I shouted to Willis that I’m safe and he screamed with excitement; we were on a roll now, we’re going to the top! He followed me up by climbing the rope using ascenders and we took a quick look at the next pitch. There was a drip from above, it hit me on the head but I knew it was just from up high on the wall. As I began to climb the drip got kind of worse… Was it just me or did it feel like it was coming from different directions now? I placed a couple of good cams and found an old rusty peg about 5metres in; the drips got even heavier… Willis still at the belay was getting wet now; this was not just seepage anymore, it was rain!

I returned to the belay but by then it wasn’t just rain, the water was cascading down the wall on top of us! We were in the middle of a waterfall and had to escape before it brought down more than just water on our heads!

Then we heard a terrible sound… a crashing thunderous sound that nobody likes to hear when they’re trying to escape a collapsing mountain! The wall to our left was crumbling apart under the tremendous weight of the cascading waterfalls; a piece of rock the size of a car flew down the wall and shattered across the shelf below… Willis and I looked at each other in what I can only describe as a “lets get the hell out of here” kind of way.

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/11794518_945934032131307_5887599296121234664_o.jpg)I was worried I wasn't skinny enough to squeeze through this... (Finalcrux Films)

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/11754529_945934092131301_3237855150046405330_o.jpg)Willis trying to squirm through the crack on second with a rucksack on!!! (Finalcrux Films)

Willis abbed down into nothing - Using momentum, he bounced back and forward from the wall to somehow reach a ledge 40m below us. I was soaked to the bone but thankfully my tight mid-layer and base layers were acting like a neoprene scuba suit and holding the water tight against my body allowing it to stay fairly warm. Needless to say, we had to keep moving and we had to escape!

I donned my soggy gloves and zipped down each abseil point as fast as I could. The water from above was easing off slightly but there was still rock fall all around us. The rope was speeding through the belay device, I could hear the hissing from the water evaporating of the soaked rope as it created friction on the metal.

It’s interesting how fear can grasp a hold of you in some odd situations; and yet moments like these when you expect fear to be at its pinnacle… I felt nothing… I was completely at ease, actually enjoying the environment around me, the chaos of the crumbling mountain! I was cold and wet and my life balanced on the edge of Fate’s dagger; but I couldn’t have been happier than if I was sitting on the bivy heading for the top of the wall!

(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/11709858_945932558798121_4309491147717596584_o.jpg)View from the North Face... (Finalcrux Films)

When you love what you do and you try your hardest, it doesn’t really matter that you might fail. Of course it’s always a bit of a disappointment when you do, but at least you are out there doing what you love! Willis and I gave our all to this route; we never gave up until the consequences really were at their most dire and I am proud of what we achieved up there. Maybe there was not an ascent to write about yet, but we pushed harder and further than we ever had before.

The climb is called “Paciencia” which literally translates as “Patience” – this makes a lot of sense to me now… The climbing is not the hard bit, it’s the situation of getting caught out up there in a storm, the possibility of not being able to get off the mountain… that is the real fear!

You need patience to wait for the right conditions and the right moment to make your move.

 

Read more (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/rock-climbing/patience-is-bitter-but-its-fruit-is-sweet.html)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

Title: Head in the Clouds...
Post by: comPiler on September 30, 2015, 01:00:24 am
Head in the Clouds... (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/head-in-the-clouds.html)
29 September 2015, 8:16 pm

Dreams can be a dangerous thing… you never know where they might take you!

This comes from experience as I’ve spent most of my life with my head in the clouds… Even before I was climbing there was always something I spent my school days day dreaming about. Mostly it was big ideas of how I would make my millions and conquer the world… still an ongoing project.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/11850700_945932445464799_6291468981372668749_o.jpg)

Climbing is the ultimate activity for someone with an overactive imagination and a tendency towards the eccentric obsessive. When I started climbing I had found something that truly ticked every box… Adventure, Challenge and Lifestyle! The one sport where your eccentricities are normal and your obsessiveness admired… Climbing is truly the sport of the geek!

I have noticed the similarities amongst my fellow adventure driven; climbing obsessed and generally well travelled brethren. Talking to a friend recently, he described his childhood in a similar fashion to my own – obsessive beyond belief, completely disinterested in the socially accepted norms (namely football) and his head in the clouds most of the time. This makes me laugh thinking how I used to be at school and yet I don’t think I’ve changed much since then… I’m a little wiser and definitely not so high strung, but I’m still the dreamer I’ve always been – I just found my niche!

“Paciencia”



Dreams can be a dangerous thing… you never know where they might take you? Like up the Eiger for example!

The North Face of the Eiger is steeped in history, all the way back to the original attempts in the mid 30’s to the modern day hardcore first ascents from guys like Ueli Steck, Robert Jasper and Roger Schaeli.

“Paciencia” was Ueli Steck’s addition to the myriad of new hard climbs on the Eiger and to this day stands as one of its most challenging paths through the steep mountain face!

For me, climbing the Eiger itself was an ambition; but as all climbers know it’s not just about getting to the top, but how you get there. The choice of style and route is down to the climber, for me it’s an important decision to make for your own enjoyment of the climb. “Paciencia” is one of the most technically challenging rock climbs on the Eiger which was a big reason why it appealed to me so much. However a strong inclination behind my desire to try “Paciencia” was from the history of its previous ascents…(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/11709858_945932558798121_4309491147717596584_o.jpg)

The first ascent was Ueli Steck, a legend of our time in the alpine world. The second was David Lama, the same age as me and yet has probably the biggest tick list of hard alpine rock climbs of any climber on the planet! The third was Dave Macleod, fellow Scot and another personal hero; a guy I have looked up to since I started climbing at 15 and who has helped foster my passion for pushing standards through his own achievements in the sport.

The history of this climb, the effort it took Ueli Steck to complete the project and the few names of climbers who have managed to free it’s path entirely was enough to make my desire to climb this route an unbearable itch!

The seed was sewn the day I first read about the climb, so when I saw an opportunity to climb it for real… I took it!

A Second Chance



If you have been following our story, you would know that we failed on our first attempt at “Paciencia” when we were so rudely blown of the face by a deadly storm…

Willis had to return to Glasgow to make some of that green stuff that’s often required to survive in this harsh first world utopia we live in. In the meantime, I parked my van outside a friend’s house in Chamonix and leached of him, occasionally throwing a can of chickpeas his way as my addition to the evening meal.

Things were looking rather gloomy as the weather had been awful for the last 2 weeks and I had no climbing partner to return to the Eiger. At that point I realized several things…

And like a miracle from God, an incredible thing happened… The story of our adventures this summer had captured the imagination of a kind-hearted individual and Willis was given a second chance! The anonymous benefactor supported Willis allowing him to return to Switzerland with me and give this climb one last chance!

And so we returned… I picked Willis up in Geneva just as the weather had improved and we drove directly to Grindelwald where we would do battle once more with our nemesis on the Eiger!

Back on the send train (we couldn’t afford the real train)



(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/11794616_945935118797865_641655733201577548_o.jpg)Arriving back in Grindelwald with the sun shining felt like a sign, this was our moment! Everything since Willis leaving had felt like a bad dream, but now we were back on track.

We spent Wednesday morning getting all our kit sorted – there was a lot of it! We packed our bags outside the van and were left with two 30+kg heavy rucksacks… That included all our gear (quickdraws, ropes, protection, etc), food (meals for the wall, bottles of water) and extra clothing in case the stuff we wore on the wall got wet.

We walked the whole way to the Eiger from Grindelwald! Normally climbers get the train, but this was impossible on our budget. You can get a train from Grindelwald to Kleineschedegg for around 50 francs for a single. Or if you are a guide you can pay extra and get the train to take you directly to the Stollenloch, which cuts out about 4 hours of approach! I did wonder… If I could, would I take the train? The alpinist inside me said “No… this is the way you would do it anywhere else in the world, plus it’s good training!” – the Scotsman inside me just looked at the price of the ticket and said “Screw that! I’d rather solo the Eiger than pay for a single”! The sport climber inside me was eyeing up the train, figuring out it’s blind spots and working a plan to sneak on board unseen.

The Scottish Alpinist won over the Sport climber this time and we took the path less trodden….

Back at the Stollenloch…



Returning to the fabled window of the Eiger was a surreal moment… The first time I ever saw the window; I wouldn’t know just how much the image of this opening into the belly of the mountain would affect me so deeply. It’s both a beautiful and terrible place – the window is the last checkpoint before taking your first steps onto the North Face from where there is no more shelter; it’s just you and the wall!

I didn’t sleep that night… We slid into our sleeping bags once again, waiting in the darkness until the first glimpse of light would creep in through the window signaling us to prepare for our ascent.

And it begins…



We were up and ready by 6am, the rock was cold and my fingers were numb but luckily the climbing was easy and the rock was dry. There were around 350m of climbing to get to our highpoint – we warmed up on the first few easy pitches before things got serious! A vicious technical 7c+ followed by yet another bouldery 7c+, a tough 7a and then the “crux” pitch, a long and sustained pumpy 8a that throws curve balls at you on every turn. Everything had gone smoothly; then just shy of the 8a belay my foot slips and the rope catches me!

I can’t believe it - 40m of climbing and my foot slips! I lower to the ledge and start again… I don’t fall on the second attempt.

The following pitches to reach the bivy range from 6a to 7a+ but this is in no way respectful to their actual difficulties… the 6a’s are dreadfully chossy and actually quite dangerous; the 7a’s are challenging and complex with long run-outs and 1000m of air and exposure below you!

One of the last pitches is a steep, practically falling down choss corner, it doesn’t feel at all comfortable to climb – check out this video from Willis for proof!

The final pitch before the bivy was caked in about a foot of snow! Luckily it was only a very easy scree slab and I just dug my climbing shoes and punched my fists into the snow to try and maintain some composure.

We reached the first bivy with a couple of hours of light left so we chilled out and made the most of the time to set up our camp to keep us dry in case of any unexpected weather.

Alpine Starts!



The term “Alpine Start” is reference to the necessity of getting up early for a long climb. Well we are only halfway up the Eiger and we certainly don’t deserve anything such as a lie in on this one – it’s an alpine start for us!(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/11822962_945934375464606_4881450845713967442_o.jpg)

6am on the dot and I warm up with a cheeky 7c+ traverse. The holds are small and sharp, the first 5 metres of bouldering on quarter pad edges is a wake up call that I certainly didn’t expect but got on with it regardless! It was a good thing though as the following pitch would prove to be the most challenging climbing yet!

I was rudely awakened to the fact that grades really mean nothing! I am happy warming up on 7b+ at most crags, but not on the Eiger. This pitch was viciously technical on small finger numbingly sharp edges, tiny sloping feet and it just kept coming for the whole length of the climb! I fell at about halfway when I was unsure of how to traverse the seemingly blank section of wall on holds as marginal as a pound coin!

After working out what to do, I came back down to the belay and set off again after a few minutes rest. This time I was successful and didn’t fall – mainly because I was wary that with every fall I’d have to return to the belay and start again. This meant that there was less time in the day to get to the top and without any signal on our phone we were unsure of what the weather might have in store for us! We felt isolated on the wall… no contact to the outside world… nobody to help us if something went wrong.

I continued up the wall onsighting every pitch as it came. Some of the 7a’s and 7b’s were stout – then we came to a long run-out 7a pitch, this took me a bit more time as there was some serious fall potential on this! We reckoned that I had made up a lot of the time we lost on the 7b+ earlier from speedy climbing up some of the harder pitches that we had broken through, but the climbing was now getting more precarious and I was certainly slowing down. We made it through the last 7b+ pitch thinking the difficulties were over, but we were so wrong!

The easier 6a-c pitches were really chossy and wet. There was nothing else to do but climb them; you just had to accept it! It was becoming increasingly difficult to identify where to go and the walls were just falling apart around us!

To my left there was a gully that was spewing rock and ice, a chunk the size of a football wizzed past my head and another the size of a golf ball knocked me in the chest throwing me off balance…

The light was fading now but we had to keep going! As the climbing eased the pitches just got more severe with a combination of loose rock and run-outs.

Eventually through one way or another we reached the top! We had accomplished what we set out to do and through so many doubts of whether the weather would hold… it somehow did! I knew all along we could climb this route; we just needed conditions and that was exactly what we got!

The End of an Epic



We rapped back down to our bivy and slept there the night – I’ve not slept so well in a long time and this was on the side of a mountain!

We made a leisurely start and rapped down the rest of the cliff making it back to the Stollenloch to retrieve all the gear we had left in case of emergency. We made the long walk back to Grindelwald with ever so slightly lighter packs from the food that we ate on the wall.(http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/images/Eiger/eiger_r2-10.jpg)

It’s been weeks since our ascent and I’ve had a lot of time to reflect on what we achieved… In some ways this is the hardest climb I have ever done. I haven’t had to put as much energy into a single climb over the course of several days as this, but then I have never climbed anything as long either. For me, “Silbergeier” was the hardest both technically and physically of the climbs I did this Summer– it’s a testament to the skills of Beat Kammerlander that he put up such a test piece in the 90’s and that it still stands today as one of the most challenging of it’s style in the world!

“Paciencia” is hard because it truly combines the element of difficult rock climbing on a harsh alpine north face where weather is a key factor in your success. Ueli was right in naming it “Patience” – this is what you need for such a climb.

The truth is I had heaps left in the tank for a climb like this; I wasn’t climbing at my limit and I am sure that with a bit of extra work I don’t see any reason why I couldn’t put up a climb of this style with much harder pitches and of a more sustained nature! For me, this style of climb is the ultimate challenge, combining all technical, mental and physical factors into one discipline. I am enjoying repeating these routes because it gives me insight into what I am capable of on these walls, but it also gives me a better understanding of what is required to open up new big walls in the future.

The future for me is to continue to repeat some of the world’s classic big walls in all styles and to start seeking out the king lines that have yet to be climbed… One day I hope to find a wall that will challenge every fibre of my being, taking me to the edge of what I think is possible and then some more!

It’s out there… I know it!

Read more (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs/entry/climbing-trips/head-in-the-clouds.html)

Source: Blogs from Robbie Phillips (http://www.robbiephillips.co.uk/blogs.html)

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