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the shizzle => the blog pile => Topic started by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:53 am

Title: Robbie's Blog
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:53 am
DING DING DING (FINAL ROUND) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=528)
16 November 2010, 10:36 pm



Hey Guys!

Guess where I am? Still in Kalymnos! Yep, I have only 6 days left now and I can tell you, I think I am ready to come home now : ) Its been great fun out here, climbing everyday, on perfect rock, in the sun, all day long, but we all miss our homes and I’m ready to get back to Ratho : P My local crag! Being out on rock all the time improves your technique so much, you are always thinking of sequences, looking for your feet and your next hand holds.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Olly-Stalagmite.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=533)Olly showing that stalagmite whose boss! The rock isn’t tagged so you’ve no idea where you’re going, apart from obviously following the bolts if your sport climbing. I feel as a climber, that I have improved massively in my ability to climb on rock, read hard sequences and now have a lot more confidence trying harder routes! On this trip I have had ups and downs, I’ve had to deal with failure, but also seen a lot of success and I believe its good to have a mix of the two. Without failure there is no learning and without success theres no feeling of accomplishment and nothing to use as fuel for attempting your next big project!

Two turning points in this trip where sending ”Gaia” 8b and ”Atlantis” 8b. ”Gaia” was the first route that really challenged my redpointing skills. Although it only took a few days, I really had to dig deep for this one. I had a bit of a mental block in the final moves and although it really wasn’t that hard for me, if you put the pressure on yourself to send, then you will be more likely to see failure on your subsequent attempts. ”Atlantis” was a similar style of ascent, I put a bit more pressure on myself to complete this one, simply because it would be the 2nd Ascent and it had been my friend Neil who had both bolted this route and got the First Ascent! Getting the second ascent of such an amazing route was such an honour for me (not as good as a first ascent, but I haven’t really had any of those yet).

The funny thing about both of these routes was, when i actually did them, I wasn’t putting the pressure on. With ”Gaia”, I was getting frustrated falling on the final move without even being that tired, so instead of going for it on the 3rd day redpointing, I decided to go away and do some onsighting. That day I onsighted a really amazing 7c+ and did another 2nd go, suddenly I was satisfied with a good day and didn’t feel pressured to climb ”Gaia”. So simply on a whim, I thought I might as well go for it, give it my best shot and if nothing comes about from it, then I’ve done a bunch of other good routes : )  First go… CRUSHED!!! No pressure and a successful ascent…

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/P1000935.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=538)Rest day activity... updating blog! With ”Atlantis”, I had had one day figuring out the moves then attempting to redpoint, with which I was actually really close to doing it! The second day I went for it, however, a thunderstorm struck Kalymnos and I was literally blown of the wall by a torrent of wind and rain! On the third day, the top was soaking wet, including the second crux and I had no expectations to send and figured, might as well give it my best shot aye? As I climbed through the first crux, the dark clouds rolled in and a second storm started, not nearly as bad as the first, but the top was getting wetter! Not feeling at all pressured now simply because I knew it would be a stroke of luck to be able to pull on the sopping wet tufa and half pad crimp when wet, I continued climbing and went for it! I managed to find a bit of a rest before the crux that I hadn’t found before and when I hit the crux holds, I just went for it, stuck every hold and pulled up to the chains! YAAASSSSS!!!

Its funny how even when the body is willing, the mind can hold you back. This is an intriguing area in climbing and probably the contributing factor to most climbers successes and failures!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/P1000952.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=539)Olly trying to on-sight a 7b+! Anyway, the end of my trip is nearing, I don’t quite know what I can accomplish in around 4 days climbing but I reckon I will go for another one of Neil’s routes at Iliada sector called ”Valley of the Dolls” 8a+, ”Chameleon” 8a at Spartacus and ”Helios” 8a at North Cape! We will see what the coming days bring : )

Now I have Olly Wheeldon, my Kalymnos climbing partner from the South West (i.e. The Shire) chatting a bit about his trip and how he has benefited from it…

Hi guys!!! Robbie and my time here is almost at an end, and although its sad to leave such an incredible place, its always nice to be back home again after such a long time spent away. During my time here i’ve developed a real soft spot for the island.

Climbing aside, this place has some of the most beautiful scenery i’ve ever encountered, with its crystal clear waters and spectacular coastline overlooking the prominent island of Telendos, which almost every night seems to be silhouetted by the incredible sunsets we’ve seen here. Not only have we had the pleasure of being in this wonderful place but from what i’ve experienced so far and from talking to other climbers out here, it is now quite possibly the most popular climbing destination in the world. In relation to how much rock is on this incredible island, it remains still underdeveloped. I believe that only a small percentage of the rock here has been developed and with the increasing awareness of the island, the amount of routes here is going to go through the roof in the next few years. That aside, for me personally I have learned alot about myself as a climber and the ways in which I think i can progress in the future. Speaking to Robbie over the last few weeks about personal progression has lead me to believe that mileage is one of the most important aspects for moving forward as a climber and this is what I have been trying to do on my trip, mainly by attempting to on-sight as many 7b/+’s as I can. This as well as in the long run making me a better climber is also in my personal opinion where I find the most enjoyment in climbing. Being on a climbing trip, I don’t really want to be under pressure with the weight of a project sitting in the back of my mind. Ideally, I want to go out and climb as many routes as I can and enjoy the huge variety of climbing that is on offer.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/P1000968.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=540)A Beautiful Kalymnian Sunset! Before coming out on this trip I was quite possibly in the best shape of my life, training 5 days a week on the woody and fingerboard. However being out here I think ive lost a significant amount of that strength! It was a very similar story in Ceuse, before leaving I could do a 2 finger one armer and on arriving back home could barely do a pull up (Joke), but something ive come to learn over these last couple of trips is that none of this matters. Yes of course having the strength to do a one armer may help you, however in the grander scale of things, being strong is an incredibly small part of what climbing is, and despite becoming weaker, my climbing has developed greatly and my awareness of my footwork and body position has improved dramatically. So as most climbers always do, ill be looking forward to getting home and trying my projects and getting on new routes that were previously out of reach.

And with that, I leave you all to finish my trip off and hopefully get a few more ticks before our times up. Good luck to you all in your climbing endevors and other things you may be aiming to acheive in the future.

Olly Wheeldon



Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: On my way home : (
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:54 am
On my way home : ( (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=568)
22 November 2010, 5:02 am

Hey guys!

I am currently sitting in the empty Kos airport, in the dark, with Olly sleeping to my left and a snoring greek guy behind me. I am finally at the end of my trip, I won’t be seeing the sweet shores of Kalymnos until next October when I am coaching as part of the masterclass coaching holidays, check it out here (http://www.climbingmasterclass.com/holidays/index.asp)! During my last week, all I was aiming to do was get as much climbing done as possible! With only a week, starting any big projects was out of the question and there was still a few classic routes I hadn’t done!(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/7b+-Gran-Boveda.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=573)

I checked out an 8b at Odyssey called “Indi Watana”. This was an absolutely incredible route, slightly sustained until just over halfway, only mildly overhung and on very small crimps! I onsighted straight into the start of the crux and even managed to get to the crux move without falling, however, the crux move was absolutely sick! I have never pulled on a hold so small in all my life. I didn’t have anyone helping me with the sequences, so its hard to tell if I was doing it right, but the way I read it meant that I had to pull of a tiny 1/4 pad edge with my right at full extension, straight into a good pocket, then do some more big moves into slopey pockets and a final crimpy section on blade edges! I am not the best at vertical filth (I have learned that) and I know it is an area that I need to work on, so I am going to leave this one for next year along with Adrian Berry’s “Spartan Wall” 8b that I found very unpleasant after 5 weeks of pulling on jugs (8b slab urghhhhhh)!

On my 3rd to last day, Olly and I went up to Iliada sector to try Neil Greshams new 8a+ “Valley of the Dolls”, unfortunatelty due to a heavy rainstorm the previous week, it had sustained heavy seepage and we had to knock this one back for the time being. This is what lead us to the intimidating and very un-climbed section of rock behind “Iliada” and “Odyssey”, “Olympic Wall”! “Olympic Wall” is a dominating face of long clean pipes (single tufas) running up and down the wall, very impressive and amazing lines (literally). I find myself intrigued by the art of climbing tufas, I imagine it to be the limestone climbers answer to crack climbing, but not : P I suppose its really the opposite of cracks, coming out of the wall rather than into the wall? Anyway, I find the art of climbing tufas a very odd experience… no tufa is identical, but the approach is always the same:

With this in mind, I have found that I am rather good at climbing them (unlike cracks) and therefore I enjoy them, so “Olympic wall” was going to be good fun for me. Unfortunately, I can’t say the same for Olly… He has not had the best luck with tufas on this trip. It has become apparent after long discussions and debates, that Olly is perhaps the worst single pipe tufa climber in the world! So when I suggested “Olympic Wall”, I just didn’t tell him that it was primarily single pipe tufas : P(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Sharma-onsight-514b.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=576)

So on arrival, Olly’s face dropped as he stared at the wall (covered in single pipe tufas) which was then followed by me getting a lot of abuse : P In the end though, he couldn’t be bothered walking all the way back down the hill, so opted for the easiest of three single pipe tufa lines on the wall (7b). I however, fancying myself a bit of a single pipe tufa master now and went for the beautiful blue one going straight up the middle of the wall! Weighing in at a sturdy 8a, the route “Hellas Rodeo” flowed elegantly up the clean white face as a single blue pipe, all the way to the top of the wall with the exception of the final clip to the chain which was a techy face climb.

I scoped out the wall in search of potential rest positions, chalk marks, a sequence as such and most importantly, the bolts! What I found was, there was no chalk as it had been raining previously, sequencing tufas is bloody hard and for  a 40m route, there wasn’t that many bolts! This was odd, it couldnt be? Could it? There wasn’t more than 7 or 8 bolts for the entire pitch and most of them seemed to be at the bottom part of the wall securing the easiest climbing. Trying to block this out of my mind and avoid thinking about the guide book comment “VERY SPACED BOLTING!”, I set out for some fun loving tufa action!

As I made my way steadily up the wall, I hadn’t approached any seriously difficult climbing for the first 10-15m. This section was largely on a lay back, single pipe tufa leading into a much bigger tufa which would take me the rest of the way. I got established at the base of the biggest tufa and looked up… 1… 2… bolts… 10m? maybe more! OH MY GOD! I plucked up some courage and went for it! The first part of the tufa was easy, just establishing myself into the groove between the massive feature and the blank face which I was smearing off on the left. I noticed that I had to make my way round to the other side of the tufa to climb it, doing this put me into a very precarious position as my rope was now twisting around the tufa and rubbing against it as I continued to climb! Suddenly the tufa started to get really slopey, the footholds vanished on the face and i was now just laybacking up this thing, smearing all the way up and occasionally bridging out a bit when I could (reminded me of Dean Potter on the tombstone (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZir3n6q5b4&feature=related)). I must have been a good 4m above the last bolt, so I looked round the corner of the tufa to clip the next one… nothing!!! WHAT? WHERE IS IT???(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/DSC04828-Desktop-Resolution.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=579) I looked up and only another 2m higher I could see it glistening in the sun, so shiny and beautiful, never had a bolt looked so attractive! To get there though, how was I to do that? I was already slipping of the tufa with sweaty palms, I was miles above the last bolt and I was properly crapping myself! I rolled my body round to face the tufa head on, and then again to try and get on the left hand side, the holds where even worse on this side, I told myself that it was all ok, sport climbing is safe and everything would be fine… but I was still flippin’ miles above that last bolt!!! I slapped my way up the tufa some more, praying to god at each slap that i would hold something juggy that I could clip from. Looking up, I suddenly saw it, a rugged, spikey slot in the wall, it was the king hold, the jug of wonders! I sketchily dabbed my feet up the smeary tufa and layed one on for the jug… LATCH!!! Never has clipping a bolt felt so good… I will never forget that sound… CLICK (crisp)! Perfect, the sound of safety : )  I suddenly came to terms with what I had done, where I was and what I was doing… After a few minutes, the hyperventilating slowed down and I regained my self. The rest of the route was certainly not a pushover, I moved from the jug into a clean, blank face with very small edges separated by the odd slopey pocket, not to mention the massive runout from here to the chains as well (as big as the tufa runout, except this time I could crimp and rest). What a crazy route! Never have I been so mentally challenged. Even though it was sport, I felt that it really pushed me into the realms of the trad climbing experience, where your decisions count for more than just success, but also safety! I certainly won’t forget this route in a hurry and I am eager for my next trip back here so I can do a bit of bolting myself (closer bolts I think). There is a clean white tufa just to the right of the 8a that looks absolutely immense, so heres hoping no one snatches it before me : P

So I had a succesful on-sight of the 8a, Olly on the other hand had “tufantastic” (waaayyyy I made a joke) a time on the 7b to the right… not really… He had a good burn on the on-sight making it about as far as the second big tufa, however, doing the usual Olly thing when faced with tufas, he missed the key points from the tufa 101 guideline I wrote above, namely numbers 2, 4 and 6… He got in plenty of 1′s, 3′s and 5′s, but without the necessaries… this can’t be sustained! Oh well… its something he needs to work on and gives him a good excuse to come back, more tufa training!

On the second to last day, I also made a repeat ascent of a route called “Polifemo” 7c at Odyssey sector. This was probably my first 7c I ever redpinted, in fact, it was probably my first real project outdoors! I had climbed this route about 3-4 years previously when I was 16 years old, Olly and another friend Jason had been trying it on off throughout the trip, so I thought as a parting goodbye to Kalymnos, that I would do it again for old times sake… in the dark! It was kind of a flash cause I couldn’t really remember that much beta, only that it had a crux in the tufa and the finishing slab. I love climbing in the dark, its such a strange experience. I have climbed a few routes in total darkness before (a 7c in Margalef and 7c+ in Rodellar) with a head torch of course! I always find that I trust my feet more, not sure why, maybe because I can’t see them so I don’t know how bad they are? What is really annoying but again, part of the experience, is thinking your going to a hold when actually your going to a shadow of the hold cast by your head torch, that can be doozy!

The last two days I racked up quite a good wee tick list:

“The beginning at the end” 7b+ (on-sight)

“Polifemo” 7c (Phantom Flash ; P )

“Aegialis” 7c (on-sight)

“The Poison” 7c+ (on-sight)

“Pindaro” 7c+ (on-sight)

“Helios” 8a (2nd go)

“Hellas Rodeo” 8a (on-sight)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/DSC04916-Desktop-Resolution.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=584)Me on upside-down tufa/stalactite land, "Priapos" 7c in Kalymnos Not bad for the last few days and I must say that I am really happy with how I climbed throughout the trip. My training seems to have payed off, I have new goals for 2011, new motivation and nothing to hold me back!

I’ve gotta go now catch a flight to Athens, so I’ll finish with that!

See you guys at Ratho!

ROBZ OUT

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/edelrid_logo1.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=570)

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Tooling Series Finale and Snow… Lots and lots of snow!
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:55 am
Tooling Series Finale and Snow… Lots and lots of snow! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=595)
30 November 2010, 12:06 am

Hey Everyone!

Its looking like its gonna be a white christmas woooohhh!!! Looking out my window right now, and all I see are blankets of pure white snow, its awesome! Unfortunately I haven’t been able to go anywhere today as far as the bus stop, but its been just good just chilling, eating, building igloos and the odd snowball fight. Nat and I attempted to get up to the Braids Golf course for some sledding action, unfortunately after wading through waist deep snow in clothes that double my body weight, carrying the sled and the dog (its too small to make it through the snow), I was properly gubbed by the time I got to the bus stop (15 minutes later) at the end of our driveway… So we headed back, broke out the Disney 1000 piece jugsaw puzzle, and thats what we’ve been doing up until now (23:00), actually Nat is still doing it, I gave up after spending an hour looking for the damn mouth of the ant from “A Bug’s Life”!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/bugslife.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=597)I hate this bug... So, on saturday (the day this winter wonder hell started), I was comparing for the biggest event of the year in British Dry Tooling, the Scottish Tooling Series (Could’ve been named better). I had been in regular contact over the past 8 weeks with Neil Silver (organiser or the event) who had asked me if I wanted to compare at the comp. He had heard me comparing for the worlds last September and thought I sounded ok (I don’t think he was listening for very long). Naturally, I jumped at the opportunity, once again will my loud and very cocky voice be heard by the masses!

Unfortunately I didn’t get to see too much of the qualifiers as I was coaching the CCT (EICA: Ratho Competition Climbing Team) for the morning, but I was looking from afar and getting regular updates from my friends competing and working at the event. My good pal Greg Boswell (winter hero and general all-round gimp, I mean wad) had route set for the comp and was giving me the low down for the final (and super final if need be). He reckoned that it would have been hard enough, if the flippin’ euro wads hadn’t shown up! Thats right, the Dutch team decided to take a trip and compete in the event as well. There was only two of them, Marianne Van Der Steen (Senior Female) and Dennis Van Hoek (Senior Male), but they were seriously fierce competitors and have a lot of experience competing in this type of event. Both of them are seasoned competition ice climbers and dry toolers and know all the tricks in the book!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Me-Laughing-at-Bills-sheet.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=598)Bill Davidsons questionnaire was rather comical! Anyway, it was awesome to watch these guys in action! I have little to no experience doing this kind of thing, I won one round last year because the routes were burly and only required that you pull hard, but when Greg sets you can bet that there will be trickery involved. I watched as all the Brits in the final attempted the route, first out was junior boys and girls. They all climbed outstanding, I was a little disappointed not to see my tooling hero Stevie Addison amongst them but he was away competing for the British Team at a trials event. Young Ruaridh Macaskill and Rory Cargill gave an impressive performance each for the Junior title, but the winner was Gregor McGilvery in the end with an awesome battle hitting as high as a lot of the senior finalists!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Tooling-Series-Organisation.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=599)Awesome Event! Competing on her own was young Sophie Harper in the Junior Females, despite this however she put on a good fight and deserved her title for it! Next up was the Veteran category (over 40′s). These were a rowdy bunch of proper lads, tough and ready for action! We had two local lads in the fight for the title, Bill Davidson and Tom Buggy, both who put in good performances, unfotunately for Tom though his axe pick popped off right at the start and lost him a much higher place he certainly deserved, he was left in 4th position. Bill however battled his way up the wall, wildly throwing his axes at hanging logs and powering his way through the crux he showed the category that no one messes with a lad from Kirckaldy!!! Bill left satisfied with 1st place…

Now into the serious competition, the Senior categories. First up was the females, and regualar competitor Karen Mcintyre was eager for a 1st place to see her series champion goal finalised, however Marianne from Holland had qualified strongly in 1st position and showed no sign of backing down. Watching both of them in the final was proper good fun and each of them put in a good fight, but Marianne was just that little bit stronger in the roof and came out on top only by a few moves.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Marianne-showing-her-strength.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=602)Marianne Van Der Steen showing no weakness! The exciting finale for the Senior male category was next and two men in particular, Malcolm Kent and Dennis Van Hoek were tipped for the top two positions on the podium, but which way round would it be? Malcolm was up first and seemingly cruised most of the route up until the final head wall, he looked a little uneasy at this point but managed to hold it together and top out to the crowds applause! Dennis was up next and being in isolation had no idea what had happened, he had qualified in first place and would have to top the route to win. From my point of view, it was a gamble on who would go home victor now… Malcolm was in the best position he could be (far from qualifying in first), but Dennis was qualified in first and all he had to do was top the route to win! The climb was awesome and Dennis showed no sign of hesitation on any move. Don’t get me wrong here as I don’t claim to be an expert in dry tooling, but I do know comp climbing, and I can say that Dennis was awesome! He wasn’t physically as strong as Malcolm but his technique was flawless and his approach to the competition and the climb was unmistakably that of a pro… he was for sure the climber of the day and the worthy victor! Dennis lowered to the ground, topped out on the final route and the new Senior Male Scottish Tooling Champion!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Peter-Rhodes-hanging.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=603)What a crazy sport! Pete Rhodes competing for the Series! Funnily enough, it wasn’t over here! There was still left, a super-final for the Series Champion in the senior male category! As Malcolm and Dennis had only competed in round 5, they didn’t rack up the cores necessary to be crowned the series champions, so this was battled out over by Steve Johnstone and Pete Rhodes. Following the awesome climbing in the senior male category earlier, I didn’t think I’d see anything as good, how wrong I was! Pete climbed out of his skin and his determination was unmatched by any I had seen yet! Falling only inches from a good rest he was lowered to the ground to much applause from the crowd! Next up was Steve, when I saw this guy win last year event, I was in awe of his skills with an axe and in the year since, i can only say, I hope I never get on his bad side because he could do some pretty serious damage to me with those things! Steve shot up the first part of the route comfortably and showed no sign of any weakness, as he approached the point were Pete fell, he effortlessly made the lock into the rest and continued to a massive eruption from the crowd. Even though he was timed out, he continue climbing to the top and failed short of clipping the chain, broken but happy, Steve was the new Scottish Senior Male Tooling Champion for the series!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Real-Champs.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=604)The Series Champions (Senior Male) What a day that was. I can only say just how impressed I was with the organisation of the event, Neil Silver and all those involved did so much to see this thing become a reality, I have never witnessed a National event like it and I really hope one day we will start seeing the other disciplines of competition climbing follow with events as good as this one! If BLCC’s were like this, then every bloody climber in the country would compete!

Hats of to you guys, Good comp…

(All Photos courtesy of Will Carroll – Courtesy means me stealing them from his facebook account : P )

Check out Will’s website here! (http://www.io-photography.co.uk/)



Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: New Year, New Training, New PUPPY!!!
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:56 am
New Year, New Training, New PUPPY!!! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=612)
13 December 2010, 12:03 pm

Hey guys!

We’ve hit December now, the snow is getting better after that horrible period of permanent whiteness and the dawn of the New Year is slowly rising. This last week for me and my family has been pretty hectic, we’ve been totally snowed in, our cars our stuck and even when we managed to free one, its now broken so my dad is off to the garage. I have been getting stuck into my new training regime as well which has been good fun so far. It comprises highly of strength, power and power endurance training for the next 13 weeks in the build up to Spain in March. As well as that, I also have a new puppy! Her name is LuLu (Not my choice!) and she’s pretty awesome… its certainly made boring days snowed in more fun.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/IMG_0314.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=615)Let sleeping Lulu lie... Anyway, most of my training I’ve been doing at Alien Rock 2. Its good to vary the places you climb at as well as the training you do. I haven’t been climbing at Alien Rock in such a long time and I have certainly seen the benefits of getting back there now. It was such a shock to the system initially as Ratho bouldering in general is more dependant on what you can get out of the features whereas Alien Rock bouldering is a lot more intense! I feel that if I really want to up my game then I am going to have to spend a lot more time climbing at Alien Rock and in general, climbing on their style of boulder problems. Because their boulder problems generally don’t have features to use for feet and their selection of steeper bouldering walls are more abundant, I have to focus on keeping body tension and this also makes the moves a lot more powerful and strength dependant. On my first day back climbing at Alien 2, I was struggling to come to terms with how well I was climbing at the wall. Because I hadn’t climbed there in a while and was still a bit unsure of how their grading system worked I was unsure if I was climbing good or bad? It wasn’t really until I had become aware of how hard the problems where in comparison to stuff I could do before that I realised how badly I was climbing! As each day went by, I seemed to be getting stronger. A recent session I had I was climbing with Eddie Barbour and Sam Clarke (two friends of mine living in Edinburgh). At the beginning of the session I was a total mess, not even being able to touch problems that they where easily flashing or even lapping! By the end of the session it had seemed that my recruitment level had increased tenfold and I was able to pull of doing boulder problems that had seemed impossible at the beginning of the week! Its amazing how your body adapts quickly to what it is doing, this is exactly why its so important to vary the training your doing, keeps the body guessing ; )

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Campus-Board-Robbie.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=616)Campussing! My last boulder session at Alien 2 saw me despatch three problems that had been giving me a really hard time, not only that, I totally destroyed them! They went down without so much as a sweat and I would probably expect to be able to do problem reps on them soon too! Anyway, I am psyched about my new training program, there are three cycles which take me into the beginning of March, here is cycle 1:

Day 1 (Strength + Power) (After Rest Day)

Morning

 

Evening

 Day 2 (Power Endurance) (After Rest Day)

Morning

 

Evening

 Day 3 (Strength + Power) (After Rest Day)

Morning

 

Evening

 Day 4 (Strength + Power) @ Alien Rock 2 or “The Board” (After Rest Day)

In the past I have always spread the training out over the week, including training on potential rest days, however this time round I am assuring that I always get a good 2-3 days rest a week. Because of the intensity of the training, more rest is required to achieve super-compensation (recovery and muscle improvement). Now you may be wondering why I am training so much strength and power and so little endurance for a trip to Spain? The answer is that I have always had a massive supply of endurance, its something that my body seems to acquire very naturally and to to be honest, anymore endurance gains won’t be helping me that much, however, my strength and power gains are something that I have always had trouble acquiring (usually because I’m doing too much endurance work), so I have opted to do the opposite of my usual training regime and with one day endurance based training a week, I am hoping that I can maintain my level of endurance and continue to improve on my strength and power. In theory this should all work, but its going to be a bit of an experiment to see if it works in practice, only time will tell! My trip to Spain is going to last two whole months, of which two weeks I will be coaching in Fontainbleau, it will be interesting to see if my bouldering will be up to much in font after this strength and power training spurt?

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/seurs-froides2.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=617)Bouldery 8a+ in Ceuse... More of this is what I need! The last two days have been the best so far. Yesterday I had a bouldering session with my mate Andy Latta and Nat, the first problem of the day was a so called grade 8 (V7/8) of which I came very close to flashing, then did it pretty much second go. Next on the send list was a problem which previously had seemed impossible, and I dispatched it second go that day! Third on the tick list was attempting a two move V8+ (Font 7B+), unfortunately I didn’t manage this one but felt super strong doing the moves which was an improvement as usually a problem like this I would be barely able to touch! Today I had a power endurance session and climbed an 8a+ circuit three times, another potential 8a+ circuit three times (falling only on one move at the end) and my third circuit which i had made the other day (which i thought was as hard as the others) I despatched easily three times over, even making the start harder on my third attempt (probably only 7c+/8a). After all that I made a V5/6 problem and did a set of problem reps on it (lapping it 5 x times), and after that I had a good power endurance campus board session as well! What a crazy two days, I am absolutely destroyed now but I’ve never felt so good on circuits and boulders as I did these past couple of days… something is working in my training!

An interesting phenomena that has occurred is the sudden influx of really strong boulderers making their way to Ratho. Two guys in particular, first it was Gary Vincent who got a job here, being a former Alien Rock Junkie I never thought I’d see the transformation but it has happened, and now he is as much a part of the Ratho family as the rest of us. The next big boulder hitter is young Mark McQuade. Mark is a seriously strong boulderer who I always saw down at Alien Rock 2 crushing the problems there, but even he has moved to Ratho now hoping to get more into routes as well as maintaining his boulder strength (I don’t want to see what this creates, 9a monster probably?). Anyway, I think this is a good sign for Ratho’s future, that it is a fantastic wall that appeals to all climbers of all abilities and I am hoping that the more hardcore boulderers coming to the centre will hopefully encourage Ratho to build a new bouldering wall that can stand as an international icon in bouldering (like the old powercave) or at least build a decent 45 board for us to train on!

Anyway, I am off now to do some training, catch up later guys

ROBZ OUT



Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Jingle Bells, Calum Smells, Robbie climbed 8b!!!
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:56 am
Jingle Bells, Calum Smells, Robbie climbed 8b!!! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=625)
27 December 2010, 1:17 pm

Merry Christmas Everyone!

Its that time of year again… All of the western world seems to stop, and for a few days all we do is eat, sleep, wrap, unwrap, drink, watch TV and in general become lazy couch potatoes. But we are happy to do it year after year on the clock, because everyone else does it and we get to spend time with our loving families who we 9/10 times only see during this one period of the year. Christmas and New year is a time to think anew about all of what we want in life, to make new decisions or implement old ones that never quite came to fruition in the previous year. These are called the New Years Resolutions, but the type I’m looking at are more climbing related ones than any other : P

Its incredibly important to always have goals or ambitions for anything you want to do well in. For me, climbing is my life and is the only thing I truly want to achieve great things in, climbing and coaching that is. My New Years Resolution is to bite the bullet and focus hard on my weaknesses in 2011, which are my finger strength and power. I have always had plenty of endurance to spare and my training over the years takes all the responsibility for this having been highly concentrated on doing lots of laps of long routes. Also having the worlds biggest climbing wall to train at didn’t make it easy not to train endurance, you might understand that doing tiny boulders isn’t really as satisfying as conquering the huge, monolithic towers that dominate nearly every corner of the climbing gym! So anyway, I am giving up doing laps for a wee bit and will be focussing heavily on the bouldering! For everyone else out there, you could use this opportunity to assess your own climbing and set yourself some new goals and actions in which to achieve them. Goals are so important as they point you in a direction which you will always be aiming for. If you have goals, you will be more likely to see them through and see them being achieved as you have more motivation towards working for them because you can already see the final result looming upon the horizon.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/DSC05742-Desktop-Resolution.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=631)Dreams looming upon the horizon... Next year (2011) I am also wanting to get out climbing a lot more! What I have found out over the years is that no matter how strong you are indoors, the skills needed to climb hard outdoors only come with experience. I have friends who climb well into the high 8′s in both bouldering and routes, some of them are absolute beats, can do multiple one armers on edges, can lap 8b’s, campus 1-5-9, etc… but among them there are also those that can’t do any of this stuff but still climb hard if not harder outdoors! So my aim is to get outside more so I can develop my skills as an outdoor climber rather than just focussing purely on the physical aspect of the sport. To do this I have arranged several trips throughout the year as well as key periods where I will be able to climb more outdoors locally. Here is a list of my plan:

March/April – Spain (Catalunya)

I plan on visiting the north-east region of Spain, Catalunya in March. Catalunya is home to some of the most awe inspiring climbing I have ever seen, massive limestone cliffs piercing out of ever corner of the land, this place is truly blessed as a climbers paradise! Areas I will be visiting include Margalef, Siurana, Santa Linya, Oliana, Monsants and Teradettes! I hope to spend a total of 2 months here with my friends Neil Mcgeachy (http://geekclimb.blogspot.com/) and Calum Forsyth. Out there we will also be meeting a large group of the kids we coach in April. They are coming out for a short climbing trip and we will be doing our best to make sure their first experiences of outdoor climbing in Europe is one they will never forget!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/calum-rescue.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=634)Mountain Rescue Hero... Calum Forsyth! What would we do without him... April (Fontainebleau)

In the beginning of April I will be heading away from Spain and instead to Northern France (Paris) to the beautiful forest of Fontainebleau! This place is considered to be the worlds most amazing bouldering destination, harbouring thousands upon thousands of established boulder problems! I am going here for a coaching course that I have the pleasure to be taking along side another of the masterclass coaches, Shaun Jansa (http://www.climbingmasterclass.com/coaches.asp)! We will be there for 2 weeks and I will hopefully get some climbing done in this time, if only it is demonstrating the problems : P

Summer (May/June/July/August)

Obviously the whole summer is a perfect time to be going climbing outdoors, but a well as the odd small trip, Nat and I are wanting to go on a bigger trip focussing on the most popular climbing destinations in the UK. We will visit areas such as Malham, Kilsney, Gordale, Raven Tor, LPT and Ansteys Cove! I have written a small tick list for each area, choosing only the most classic routes at each crag! Even if I don’t get them done, its the experience of trying them that counts and its this that will help develop my climbing. As well as climbing for ourselves, we will also be organising a couple of short coaching holidays for while we are down there. I would like to base them in Yorkshire and have chosen a number of quality crags (with the help of my friend Chris Speakman who lives down there) to visit that will cater for every ability of the group. In the coaching holiday we will include coaching areas such as:

On-sight Skills        Red-point Skills

Footwork               Body Position

Video Analysis         Training to improve

Tactics       Visualisation

And lots more! We will also be inviting my good friend Will Carroll (http://io-photography.co.uk/), amateur photographer (but certainly the best I’ve ever seen!) who will be taking awesome action shots of everyone as they are climbing and doing the course, so if you want a nice memento of your time with us in Yorkshire, then just ask Will and he can sort you out : ) Check out his site for previews of his photography (Click on here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/eversocoolphotos/) for his photo stream on flickr).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Steve-Mcclure.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=637)8a @ Malham Cove... SICK!!! October/November

In the end of October I will be taking my second coaching holiday for Masterclass (http://www.climbingmasterclass.com/). This will be held in the beautiful island of Kalymnos (Greece). I will be here with Szymon Dziukiewicz (http://www.climbingmasterclass.com/coaches.asp) (I don’t know how to pronounce this either) a seasoned climbing coach from Poland originally who now lives in London! I am hoping to spend a bit more time out here so I can get some of my own climbing done too. I am hoping to come back, get some climbs ticked that eluded me on my last trip and potentially go for the monster route, “Jaws” 8c! Whilst climbing with Gaz Parry (http://www.gazparryclimbing.com/) out in Kalymnos, he also expressed a wish to return for this route, so maybe I won’t be bribing my friends to follow me to the dank hole in the ground of which it resides : P

So as you see, a busy year but no doubt is going to be awesome fun, I am eagerly looking forward to it! Bring on 2011!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Hulks.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=642)BRING ON 2011!!! ARGHHHHHHH!!!  

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: BBC’s London
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:56 am
BBC’s London (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=661)
11 January 2011, 1:35 am

Hey everyone!

Happy New Year to you all, hope it was a great day and I wish everyone the best 2011 possible! I am really looking forward to this year, its going to be very busy, full of climbing, coaching, trips and plenty of adventures : ) My first big adventure of 2011 is next weekend in London, where I am going to be competing at the British Bouldering Championships! I haven’t done this since 2005, so it will be quite an experience. As I am not really a boulderer, It will be interesting to see how I compare with the rest. I know quite a lot of guys entering the comp in my category, most of them are strong boulderers, but also a lot of them are like me and favour sport climbing, so its a bit of a mixed basket of climbers thrown in there. Bouldering competitions require very different skills that a lot of your average keen boulderers don’t have, such as the fitness required to climb a lot of mid-grade problems one after another! Also, you get more points if you flash the problem than if you climb it second go, and a lot of climbers find this quite difficult. Many of the problems at the comps tend to be quite funky with lots of weirdness thrown in, generally requiring good balance and flexibility  and very good route reading skills! So its not all about being the strongest!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Flying-jump-Robbie.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=668)Dynamic Bouldering : P A good friend of mine, Eddie Barbour, told me that he was shocked after competing in Sheffield that he had actually beaten a lot of really strong boulders (much stronger than him). He put it down to the fact that there was very few really hard problems, and the competition was decided on who could flash the most mid-grade problems. Eddie being primarily a route climber, managed to sustain his level for a lot longer than many of the hard core boulderers (who just got tired) and because of this, he came out on top in the end! I know not every competition will be like this, but it definitely gives competition boulderers a good reason to train their endurance and power endurance, rather than simply focussing on the strength and power aspect of bouldering.

Another good reason to train endurance and power endurance in bouldering is also so you can climb longer problems (traverses or highballs?) and climb more problems in a session e.g. circuits of problems like the font versions?

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Angus-latching.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=667)My favourite pic of Angus : ) Coming down to the BBC’s from Edinburgh is Natalie Berry, Calum Forsyth, Angus Davidson, Jamie Drummond, Fraser Macilwraith and Rachel Carr! This is a strong team of guys and gals and I reckon we will see some stellar performances. All of them have been in full-on boulder mode over the winter (Fraser especially whose been on it all year!) and they are all as strong as I have ever seen them.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Rachel-Carr-1.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=666)Rachel Carr falling in the WYC Rachel Carr has been bouldering bits at A2 and I had a session with her recently their and at Ratho, she is looking like a total machine and certainly climbing like one as well! I simply can’t believe how strong she is getting, I am almost scared of this because if it continues she will be making all the strong male boulderers in Scotland look weak! Angus is climbing simply superb, I have had a few sessions with him at Ratho and A2 over the past couple of months and he’s been ripping it apart! My last session with Angus saw him send a hard grade 7 (Font 7bish) in front of a large crowd of fully grown men who where failing one after another on it. In the same session he cruised a tricky grade 6 (Font 7aish) 2nd go even though each move was at his full span and the holds were all tiny crimps (even for him with his tiny fingers : P). Calum has been back, hitting the boulders hard at Ratho with a stream of V7′s and V8′s under his belt with very short work! Fraser has been doing his usual at Alien Rock 2, everyday looking stronger and shocking all the hardcore boulderers with his finger strength and natural ability. And finally, Nat, for years I thought, she can’t be any good at bouldering, she never does it! How wrong I was… she is the exception to the rule that states “to be a good boulderer, don’t do laps on 30m routes” : P  Nat seems to have insanely strong fingers, despite what I used to think, I reckon its all that initial GCC (Glasgow Climbing Centre) training she did over the years. If there’s a crimp she will hold it, if there’s a desperate reach off a filthy edge, she will static it!

I can’t say how much I am looking forward to next weekend, I don’t really care how I do, I know I am going to have fun regardless and I am really looking forward to watching all my friends compete!

Wish us luck everybody!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Losing Weight Before Comp/Short Trip?
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:57 am
Losing Weight Before Comp/Short Trip? (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=671)
13 January 2011, 11:58 pm

Hey Guys!

Our body weight is something that directly affects everyone in climbing. Its a pretty obvious factor in our performances, as athletes trying to beat gravity, it only makes sense that the lighter we are, the less gravity will push us down. It was a very obvious thing for me, that after Summer 2005, I went from on-sighting my first 6c to on-sighting my first 7b, the difference between beginning and end of summer was around 2 stone! Its not a coincidence that my grade jumped like that along with my weight and there where certainly other factors involved such as improved technique, endurance and cutting all my crazy hair off : P

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Photo-207.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=678)The Elvis days... So we can see just how important our weight in climbing is! Over the years, I have seen many climbers (including myself) go on crazy diets to try and lose weight fast and for long periods of time. I have heard stories from friends of when they witnessed dieting taken to the extremes e.g. not being able to walk to the crag because of so little energy and collapsing during class at school! This is obviously extreme cases where it has been taken too far, but the bottom line with weight loss in sport is about being healthy and having enough energy to actively participate in your sport to the highest level.

For the past 5 months or so I have been working with a friend of mine, Rebecca Dent (Performance Nutritionist – registered dietitian, who works with elite athletes at GB/olympic level) has been helping me with my own nutrition and diet. She has agreed to work alongside me writing my blog so as to give the experts opinion on nutrition for optimal performance (she will provide a brief biography of her experience and how she came to become involved with climbing). We will be running regular question and answer pages too so if anyone wants to get in contact with us with a question on training, climbing, nutrition, etc… then please feel free to contact me at robz@robbiephillips.co.uk

Recently I have been discussing with Rebecca, the benefits of certain weight loss tactics close to a big event such as competition or trip (2-3 days). The reason I wanted to ask this was because I am competing at the British Bouldering Championships (BBC’s) this weekend in London and want to engage anything that could possibly give me a boost on the day. I am not going to go on some crazy crash diet that is going to leave me weakened and unfit for an important day such as this, however athletes in competition on one day of the year need to be in a peak state of body and mind, basically a lean mean fighting machine (I think I need to work more on the mean). What she recommended was a 1-2 day diet called a Low Residue Diet. This is basically a low fibre diet which will reduce residue and bulk from your intestine making you feel lighter and have an empty stomach for competition day. The most important thing about this is that it DOES NOT effect muscle glycogen stores and hydration. If it did, this would negate any benefits in weight loss and result in the athlete being low on energy and dehydrated.

So anyway, I decided to give this little diet a test run before the comp. On Monday 10th I weighed myself first thing in the morning at 78kg (before breakfast), I had a normal day of eating and exercise that day, everything as usual… On Tuesday 11th I weighed myself at the same time and weighed in at 77.5kg, half a kilo difference but I hadn’t done anything unusual to expect this and for tuesday I proceeded to follow the low residue diet and ensured I maintained good hydration. On Wednesday 12th I weighed myself at 77.5kg again after one day on the “Low residue diet”, this was unexpected but Becca and I discussed the results and decided to have one more day on the diet (so I followed the low residue diet again on wednesday). Interestingly enough however, I did feel a lot lighter on wednesday and went to Alien Rock 2 that night to try it out… I had one of the best bouldering days of my life, flashing 2 problems in the grade 8 scale (their own grading system, I might flash an 8 once a month) and did a couple of 8′s second go as well as a tricky 7! Today (Thursday 13th) I weighed my self this morning at around 76.5kg, and continued throughout the day eating my normal healthy diet. Tomorrow I am going to do the “Low residue diet” once more before the competition as it did provide good results for me on Wednesday and even today with a 1kg difference from the start, only 2 days ago! The important thing to remember with this diet is that it is very short term lasting only for a maximum of a couple of days because it is not nutritionally sound as it misses out the major foods providing essential vitamins/minerals and fibre for optimal performance, recovery and health.

Low residue diet for weight loss prior to competition

Practice Run

Monday:

Tuesday:



Breakfast:

Snack:

-       No fruit

Lunch:

-       No vegetables, salad or fruit

Snack:

-       No Fruit

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Scone-Mixes.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=679) Yummy! Scones…..     Evening Meal:

-       No vegetables, salad or fruit

Supper Snack:

-       No fruit

Suitable Snacks:

-       White bread sandwich/roll

-       Hot cross bun (I know it includes raisins but not enough to make a difference)

-       Scones with no dried fruit

-       Jelly sweets

-       Jaffa cakes

-       Scotch pancakes

-       Pots of rice pudding/low fat custard

-       Bowl of cereal (rice krispies/cornflakes/special k)

Wednesday:

First morning weight (after going to the toilet)

Friday:

Saturday:

Eat normal breakfast

Snack regularly on easy to digest foods through out the day (white bread sandwich, snacks as above, sports drink, cereal bars, jelly sweets, jaffa cakes)

So as you see, very low in fibre and high in easy to digest foods. This has been an interesting experiment with some intriguing results, lets see if it helps me in the BBC’s. Try this out for yourselves and see if it has the desired effect. After discussions with Rebecca, results may vary depending on your normal diet e.g. from being on this diet, I have discovered that I don’t eat enough fibre in my regular diet however I keep myself very well hydrated, we found this out from the fact that there was very little difference in weight between each day that I did the diet.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Crimper-Robbie.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=685)Ready to crush for the BBC's! Remember everyone that the most important thing is to be healthy in the long run, always make sure you eat enough everyday to sustain your exercise and that your not running yourself into the ground with a silly fad diet!

All the best!

Robz

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: A Competitor/Coach’s Account of the BBC’s
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:57 am
A Competitor/Coach’s Account of the BBC’s (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=689)
17 January 2011, 10:59 pm

Hey guys!

Nat and I have just returned from the BBC’s (British Bouldering Championships) held down at the Outdoors Show in Excel, London! We travelled down with some fellow Scots from Edinburgh, Jamie Drummond (Junior Boys) and Calum Forsyth (Junior Girls : P Only joking) as well as both their dads and Jamie’s little brother who weren’t competing. The journey was long and tiring, lasting around 7-8 hours from Edinburgh but also we added an extra couple of hours when we had to find our hotel, which was conveniently located deep within the ghettos of London. Its not a good sign when every passer by stares at you with the same burning hot intensity that a lion gives its prey.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/red-problem2.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=698)Me trying one of the harder qualifier problems (V8ish?) Anyway, the next day we headed to the Outdoors Show, an early start but we where all psyched out our minds to check out what the route setters had been cooking up for us! There was the wall, about 30-35 degrees overhung, littered with volumes of varying sizes and shapes, and hundreds of holds plastered all over the wall! Nat and I have been competing for a while now, Nat (8-9 years) and me (4 years), we have made lots of friends in the competition circuit as well as on our travels round the world climbing, the BBC’s and other competitions offer us the perfect opportunity to meet up with all our friends and go climbing for a day, as well as enabling us to make new friends in the process : )  When we arrived, I met up with all my pals from around the country, climbers from every corner of the UK. It was good to meet up with the South Wales crew (whom I had met in Kalymnos only a few months before), they had a strong team with them this year, 3 guys in the Senior Male category, 1 in the Junior Male and 1 in Senior Female. As well as the Welsh, we met up with Eddie Cooper and his lot from Ireland who the Edinburgh crew have become really good friends with over the past few years, having seen them at nearly every national competition we enter and having them as regular visitors to EICA: Ratho. A little closer to home, we met up with Ed Hamer and his bro Sam from the Peak, Ed I have known for years through the comp scene and his brother Sam who I haven’t seen for years since I first started competing. Its great to meet up with everyone all at once, it makes me wish there where more big events like this throughout the year (COME ON BMC, HOW BOUT A SERIES OF BBC’S and BLCC’s!!!).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Watching.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=693)Me and Ed watching fellow competitor Nathan Phillips on the first problem (V3ish) The warm up wall was a bit crap unfortunately, it was the same angle as the comp wall, but there wasn’t many decent holds on it for warming up on and we where resorted to just pulling on crimps from the start, this is maybe something that should be improved on for next time (Bigger holds!!!). Ed and I spent this time setting V14′s…  : P

We all headed out together to do the problems after warming up, I was searching for the easiest ones of course, not wanting to jump straight onto the sick hard stuff, but also wanting to watch people on the problems first before I tried them : P The problems ranged from around V4 – V9, and were set by four of the top British route setters, Andy Long, Jamie Cassidy, Ian Vickers and Percy Bishton. It was fun trying them all, there was a lot of different styles of setting and they seemed to split the field well! I was really happy with my result, managing to flash 6/10 of the problems and getting 8 bonus holds, even got the first ascent (Flash) of one of the tricky crimp fest problems : P Me and Nat are gonna really concentrate on building our power and strength for next years BBC and focus quite a bit more on bouldering rather than the usual routes. The main thing we both felt she lacked on was her ability to climb using the funky volumes as well as her shoulder strength, apart from that everything was peachy. My issues lied mainly in finger strength (the usual), apart from that everything was all good, I even surprised myself with my ability to read the problems correct first go! We have big plans for next year, mine lying in hitting the top 10 and Nats are on winning the next comp, in the words of a famous Spanish comp climber:

“The future will be mine”

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/4th-place.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=699)Nat in 4th place (4... is a magic number!) At the end of the qualification round, I managed to hit 18th position out of 53 competitors! Nat got into the finals and climbed outstanding, a few slip ups due to lack of boulder comp experience dropped her some valuable points which could have put her a place higher, but in the end she was very content with 4th place. Not too shabby for a couple of route climbers : P Also, Calum, Roddy and Anna climbed outstanding in the qualifications! Calum achieved a very respectable 46th position, flashing 2/10 problems and getting 2 Bonus holds! Roddy was his usual beasty self, and despite injury managed to reel out an impressive joint 11th position with crimp meister Ed Hamer!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Angus-red-problem.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=700)Angus climbing the tricky red problem (V6ish) The next day was the Junior event. Competing in this for Scotland was Rachel Carr, Angus Davidson, Jamie Drummond and Fraser Mcilwraith! Nat and I were acting a coaches for the day, helping them with reading sequences, talking them through tactics and calming them down if they where having a hard time. I was so impressed by all the kids performances on the day, everyone was taking it really seriously but having fun at the same time. The scariest moment of the day was when the Junior boys had started climbing, however Angus hadn’t shown up even at the warm up wall yet! Apparently Angus and his mum had come in the train, however, when Angus exited the train, his mum had been left behind and ended up having to get another train back! This caused Angus to be 10 minutes late for the competition as well as a lot of stress on both him and his mum, however, when he arrived, he went straight into the warm up area and got ready, then came out with plenty of time left to compete and had an amazing competition! The results where fantastic, with Angus placing 16th, Jamie 25th and Rachel making the final, climbed out of her skin to place 2nd overall in the Junior Female Category! Unfortunately, at the end of the qualification round, disaster occurred with Fraser on one of his final attempts, he fell off the wall landing on his arm, breaking and dislocating it! He was rushed to hospital after being drowned in oxygen and other pain relief medical drugs : P  He was quite literally, out of it. Despite all of this he still placed 9th and I am confident that if he hadn’t broken his arm, he would have qualified for finals and been a contender for a podium place! Lets all wish Fraser a speedy recovery, I am sure this experience won’t hold him back for next years BBC’s!

All in all, a very good competition and I am really looking forward to next years BBC’s!

Low Fibre Diet

In my last blog I was discussing the use of a low fibre diet for competing or for a a short trip. I said I would talk about my experiences with it at the comp, so here it goes:

On the day of the competition, I ate small amounts and often throughout the day to maintain my energy but not add too much weight to my stomach. For breakfast I had cornflakes with milk and from then on ate small amounts of simple carbs throughout the day such as bits of muesli bars, chocolate, fruit, etc… I felt incredibly light during the comp and at no point was I out of energy. I think that the low fibre diet did well for me during this short period and I would recommend it to anyone wanting to be light for a short period e.g. 2-3 days. I think it does require a couple of days preparation (no fibre foods for 2 days) before you notice much of a difference, but the third day is a perfect gravity-free day : P I don’t think this is good for long-term use and I would probably only do it once in a while. I am definitely going to apply this diet to future competitions as well as weekend trips outdoors that I want to be fighting fit for! I will definitely be using this whilst in Spain for when I am trying to red-point a hard project as a last resort.

Anyway, Climb hard guys and look forward to the next installment of my blog soon!

ROBZ OUT!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Ben-Fogle.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=703)Nat + Roz with Ben Fogle : P  

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: First day back on Routes!
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:58 am
First day back on Routes! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=713)
20 January 2011, 1:37 am

Hey guys!

For the regular followers, you will know that I have been focussing more on bouldering over the past 2 months (basically since returning from kalymnos). I felt that a massive weakness in my climbing was my strength and power and that if I wanted to push myself into the upper regions of the f8′s in sport climbing, then I would have to work this weakness. Today was my first day back doing routes, I literally haven’t tied in to a rope for over 2 months! The closest I have done to doing routes is circuits once a week, but to be honest, I have missed these the passed 2-3 weeks since I’ve been focussing more on the BBC’s. At ratho, Neil Mcgeachy, Neill Busby and Gary Vincent set some outstanding new routes for the leading ladder qualifiers ranging from 5+ – 8a, seeing them as I came into work today, I really couldn’t resist it anymore, so tempted by the devil that is sport climbing, I grabbed my harness, a belayer and a rope and set out to try the new routes!

Not that shocking really, but even on the 7a (which to be frank shouldn’t be too hard for me), felt pretty pumpy : ( I don’t think I have been pumped on a 7a in years! The fuorescent green HOLDZ holds, where slopey, bobbly jugs heading straight through a 35 degree overhanging wall into the 60 degree finale. Each hold was massive, but my forearms seemed to dislike holding on for longer than 8 moves, especially when I stopped to clip (when would you stop to clip on a boulder problem?). Even though I was slightly pumped, jugs are jugs and I wasn’t going to fall of this (me fall of a 7a? HA HA HA HA! My ego is too big for that!). I clipped the chain and got lowered to the ground, grinning to my belayer, pretending not to be pumped : P

The second route was a 7b bacon flavoured climb… yes bacon… new holds and we choose bacon colour… yummy! I climbed this one mainly for Ian (a regular at ratho whom I coach) because I wanted him to go for this one flash and seeing me climb it first may give him a better idea of sequences, rests, clipping positions, etc… I actually felt slightly less pumped on this one than I did the 7a, but I reckon this was more due to being warmed up. Its funny though, in some cases, I actually believe that you can be relatively fit, however, be insecure of the feeling of pump and therefore be unwilling to go for moves because you think you are too pumped. I reckon I am still really fit even though I haven’t done routes in a while, however, the feeling of being pumped and having to clip and move on is so alien to me that I actually freeze up a bit an don’t go for moves as hard as I used to. I remember seeing a boulderer I know climbing in Spain, he was complaining of being pumped and not able to go on, yet still managed to hold on to the holds for a further 2 minutes before eventually falling off! In this case I believe he had a case of “The Alien Pump”, when he hasn’t experienced pump in such a long time that even a slight burn in the forearms is enough to throw his mindset of and con him into believing that any subsequent move is impossible!

Anyway, after successfully climbing the Bacon 7b, I decided I needed more of a challenge and opted for Gary’s new green 8a, straight up the central line of the comp wall! I had a quick scope of the route and went for glory! I was rather scared since my belayer was more than likely half my weight and if I was to take a fall, probably end up through the first clip! I smoothly climbed up the first half, not even slightly pumped and managed to sail into a good rest before the main section and obvious crux, THE ROOF!!! I searched the roof for sequences and positive holds from my upside down rest, and once I had psyched myself up, I went for it! Getting into the start of the roof was no bother. I slapped into a positive sloper and re-adjusted my right hand from a good spike into and pinch undercut to put me into position for what I thought was the crux move! Dynamically, I slapped my left hand through and hit a side-pull jug, holding it, I bounced through, cutting loose and catching the next jug with my right hand! With a fighting determination to win this battle, I threw my feet into a ball out right and chucked for an edge of the lip of the roof, LATCHED!!! I had it! Re-adjusting my right foot onto an edge over the lip, I had a last remaining bout of aggression and leapt for the final jug… ARGHHHHHH!!! I held it, gained my balance once more and clipped the chains! Phew… I felt like my friend Eddie Barbour, he always give it 110% and I was psyched by the effort I had put in to reap the glory of a successful onsight!

With under 6 weeks until Spain, this is a very good omen! I am hoping to crush many 8b’s out there and finally despatch an old nemesis from my past, so even after 2 months of no routes, its good to see that I can still on-sight 8a : P I am going to continue my training, however, now I am going to slowly introduce more routes and more circuits to the equation. This year however, I am desperate to focus on getting stronger and boulders are seeming like they are the way for me, even if it is aimed at becoming better at routes.

BRING ON SPAIN!!!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Alien Rock Boulder Comp + New Holds!!!
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:58 am
Alien Rock Boulder Comp + New Holds!!! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=721)
25 January 2011, 11:48 pm



Hey guys!!!

On Friday I was competing at the Alien Rock Winter Bouldering Competition, an event that I won (Junior Category) around 4 years ago now, yet have not been back for a single round since! This was the first time competing in the senior category, but I was very happy to take on the competition! The problems where being set with a new set of “Revolution” climbing holds that Alien Rock have just purchased. Soon they should be getting despatched down to Alien Rock 2 which will certainly add some much needed spice to the walls : P  The competition was a great success, there was a good turnout in every category and a number of strong climbers to make me fight for a top place. Chris Miele, Roddy Mackenzie, Tim Cross and Mike Mullins where are number of the Alien Rockers setting for the event and they certainly did a bang up job! The problems where ace, doing a fantastic job of separating the men, woman, girls and boys in their respective categories. In the senior men, it looked like their was four of us tipped for top positions, me, Gary Vincent and two lads from Aberdeen, John and Chris.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Andy-Looking-Sketch-P.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=724)Andy looking sketchy on the balancy rock over mantle! Unfortunately, the local hero Andy Latta is recovering from an  injury and was unable to climb particularly well due to his current distaste for pockets. Anyway, I managed to flash all the way up to the final four problems! Number 30 was a 45 degree overhung masterpiece set by Mike Mullins. It was set using a variety of crimps and pinches, all really positive with a basic sequence, but I managed to fluff it on the flash by thinking I could jump straight for a juggy crimp rather than simply doing two extra moves and avoiding a nasty jump : (  Anyway, I did it second go and was happy with that. I also fluffed the flash of number 27, quite a tricky pinchy problem on a 15 degree overhang, but not trusting my heel, I was reluctant to go for a deep rock over and instead just sagged off… Another second go! Only two problems after those that I didn’t flash, a vertical piece of filth which took me a million and one goes and then after I did it, I discovered an easier way of doing it making it about a million and two grades easier! DAMN!!!! : )  Thats what comps are all about aye? Its about being tactical, decisive, clever and not jumping ahead of yourself! The final problem wasn’t too bad, it just had a really awkward last move which I fluffed three times before latching it on my fourth go, missing out on any decent amount of points (only 1 point after 3rd go).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Coaching-Andy-Latta.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=723)Coaching Andy Latta @ the Comp (He's a lost cause!) All in all a good comp with some good laughs! I got a water bottle for my protein shake and a new boulder bucket by DMM in the raffle (Don’t tell Edelrid shhhhhh!). The only annoying thing was finding out I came 3rd when I clearly got about 10 more points than the guy in 2nd? But he came up to me after the results had been posted and reckoned it had to be a mistake as he hadn’t even completed the last three problems. I think this has happened to me in every single Alien Rock comp I can remember, who does the counting? Maybe they don’t like me : P

Thanks Alien Rock for a wicked evening of blood, sweat and tears : P (Blood on my finger pads, sweat on my palms and crying from pain of the two mixing together)

ROBZ OUT



Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: A bit of everything…
Post by: comPiler on February 03, 2011, 06:00:09 am
A bit of everything… (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=731)
3 February 2011, 1:09 am

Hey Guys!

I have been mega busy over the past few weeks, lots of coaching work going down right now, writing new articles for Scottish Mountaineer and UKClimbing and been training hard for Spain on top of all this! This doesn’t leave much time for myself, good thing my life is climbing otherwise I’d be a workaholic : P

In amongst all the chaos, I did manage to get out once on the rock! I headed down with Nat and another friend of mine Niall McNair to Kyloe Out the Woods last Sunday. With us came my new puppy, Lulu, who was as keen as us to get some climbing done : P

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/LULU-eyes.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=735)what are you looking at? Niall was heading down to try and finish of an old project of his, “Northern Territory” 7c+ (V10). The problem has been giving Niall quite a lot of difficulties over the past few weeks, still unrelenting to his persistent sieges! I had been down the previous week with some other friends and had made an awesome link on one of my first attempts, basically from the second move until the last droppable move! So I was well keen to get down and try and sort this bad boy out. After warming up (a bit of traversing, then flashing a 7A+ and repeating another 7B+) we headed down to try out the project! Niall had a few blasts and after watching his sequence, was convinced that that wasn’t the way I was going to try it, simply because it looked more like someone suffering an epileptic fit than attempting a climb, but to be honest, thats what Niall climbs like most of the time anyway : P

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/V10-Northern-terriutory.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=736)Me on "Northern Territory" V10 - Sorry Edelrid for the Mammut t-shirt : P I tried my old beta and felt really strong on it! The only issue I had was that the freezing temps where busting my toes and fingers to bits and I really couldn’t be bothered dealing with it. I had quite a few more attempts but eventually stopped giving it my 100% and eventually sacked it off. Niall however was a different story, he was going all out and in the last round discovered that he could actually use the same technique that I was using and found this to be much better beta (BETA MASTER STRIKES AGAIN!). He then started seeing much better links to the point he was actually falling off the final few moves (you really shouldn’t be falling here!). I was gutted for him, it was increasingly becoming obvious that he was losing the energy and more importantly the skin to keep up with quality attempts, so we decided to sack it for the day and head off to Back Bowden for a final burn.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Kalymnos-training-@-kylo.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=739)Training for Spain @ Kyloe (KNEEBARS WOOOOOHHH!) Nat had been climbing her usual beastly self, flashing a 7A+ earlier on and making the 7B+ look like 6B+! Unfortunately the last move was a bit big and Nat like me was getting a bit cold, so she decided to leave it for a warmer day (we’re just softy sport climbers at heart). At Back Bowden, Nat made all the moves of a really tricky 7C and was looking way closer than me to doing it (stupid girly fingers is my excuse : P ), and I flashed (2nd go if you count the stupid foot pop at the first move) a soft 7B. Bouldering is such an odd sport, some grade 6′s I find relentlessy difficult whilst in the mid to upper 7′s they can seem really do-able in comparison? Not at all like sport climbing, at least you know where you stand when your tied in to a rope! Not exactly true if you count some of the insane french slabs at Ceuse or Buoux but lets not get into details shall we…

Lulu had an excellent day out, doing what I reckon was a seriously stiff D2 (Doggy grade 2) slab and flashing a tricky D1 mantle. She was knackered when we got back to the car and slept the entire way home. For her first adventures at the crag, not bad at all little one, not bad at all…

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/D1-Mantle.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=742)Lulu engaging the mantle move... (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/D1-Mantle-complete.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=743)Lulu completing the mantle : ) Her first D1!!! The day before Kyloe, I was coaching in Aberdeen at the Transition Extreme wall. This was part of a series of coaching events I have been invited to work at as part of the Scottish Team Coaching Events run by the MCofS (Mountaineering Council of Scotland). Up with me at the event was Neil Mcgeachy (British Team Coach and Organiser of the Event) as well as Ruairidh Mackenzie (British Team Coach and Robert/Dylan Mackenzie’s Dad). It was a brilliant day coaching, we had a bunch of really great kids to work with and it ran super smoothly! I am continually being surprised by the standards of these kids nowadays, I wish I had the same opportunities they have now when I was younger. Obviously I started late (15 years old) however, when my girlfriend Nat started her climbing, there was nothing in place like this to help support her, give her confidence, give her experience, teach her valuable training skills and techniques, etc… She basically had hints and tips from lots of different people (McGeek, Gresham, Team Training, etc) but nothing as built up and structured as nowadays. I coach one member of the team on a bi-weekly basis and have regular sessions with other members of the team every month (they also receive bi-weekly sessions with other coaches), this is an amazing opportunity for kids and its great that its available to them now! If Nat had received this when she was a kid, would we have a world champion already? I reckon we wouldn’t be far off it seeing how she has placed top 5 in World Cups before with such little support.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Nat-champ.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=746)PSYCHED!!! The setup being run in Scotland now is absolutely amazing for bringing up young climbers (aged 5 and onwards), we have so many psyched coaches working with the kids and even the older kids are getting involved. We have myself, Neil Mcgeachy, Neill Busby, Ruairidh Mackenzie and John Brown all offering voluntary service throughout Scotland coaching the kids and climbers such as Natalie Berry, Jonathan Field, Jonathan Stocking, Eleanor Hopkins and Rachel Carr giving back what they themselves received and are still receiving by offering coaching for the kids at local clubs like Quickdraw and through the MCofS Youth Development program. This is only going to grow and get better and better in the years to come, I am psyched out of my mind to see what this dedication to developing young climbers will bring… Anyway, the day was a great success and I had a fantastic time coaching some awesome young climbers! Truly inspiring!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Stretching-out-william.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=747)William cruising his way up a 7a+ Onsight from last year! As well as all that, I had my first session with young William Bosi since he’s been given the all clear to get back into hard climbing after a little elbow injury. This is another kid that scares me, he is only 12 years old, he’s still into Pokemon, comic books, video games (heck, so am I come to think of it!) and he’ll run about the bouldering wall playing hide and seek before he’ll do any training, but he can still crank out techy 7b onsights when he feels like it : P We started the session of with a bit of onsight practice on easier routes:

Mind, this is his first day back doing hard climbing after several months, imagine what he could do if he was fit! SCARY!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Campus-Board-Robbie.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=748)Campus Board - Good "Additional" Training Routine Finally, had a triple coaching session with three of my clients, Neil, Alan and Ian. I was preparing them for the first phase of their 25 week cycle training program that all three of them are embarking on! This should be exciting for them, Neil currently climbs 6c+/7a onsight, Ian is at about the same level and Alan is at around 6b+ onsight (Alan started climbing with me in July and could barely climb 5′s at the time).

All of them have good long term goals that they want to achieve and to do this I felt that a periodised program starting of with a high aerobic fitness base moving into more and more anaerobic territory as the plan progresses was needed. I am starting them off with 2 sessions a week of specific Aerobic forearm fitness training, 1 session of mileage bouldering and 1 session of hard routes (anaerobic training) with additional gym and campus board/fingerboard routines. Hopefully they will all be flying at the end of the cycle : )

Anyway, hope everyone else out there is cranking hard

Venga Bichos!

ROBZ OUT!!!

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Lots of work!
Post by: comPiler on February 16, 2011, 06:00:10 am
Lots of work! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=759)
16 February 2011, 1:50 am

Hey guys!

Hope everyone is well now… I certainly haven’t been : (  I have come down with a bit of a bad cold, but I was totally expecting it to be frank as I haven’t had much time off over the past 2 months. I was inspired to write a little blog post on my work life of late after reading Gaz Parry’s blog (http://gazparryclimbing.blogspot.com/) post the other day. I don’t know if I can complain quite as much as him, as he’s done practically no climbing apart from the odd bit of testing routes after setting, but I’ve certainly not had it easy : P

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/P1000841.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=766)Gaz on a 7b+ when we where in Kalymnos! First of all… after I got back from Kalymnos, I was only thinking about my next trip out i.e. Spain in Spring 2011! So what do I do? I take on lots of work to make some money before heading out to Spain : ) So I take on a load of shifts from then until March 9th. I am happy with this because, basically I need money to go on climbing trips and working is a good way of acquiring said money : P So since then, I have been working around 2 days a week routesetting/otherwork at Ratho, with 1-2 half-days at the weekend coaching the youth clubs at Ratho (possibly the best job in the world!?!?). Now you might say now, shut up Robbie, thats nothing! Well… theres more to come : )

After taking on all these hours… my personal coaching work suddenly goes into overdrive, which I am psyched out my mind about and I love the fact that I am now able to make a living doing my passion! However, the hours of personal coaching on top of my weekly hours at Ratho is taking work to a new level altogether! The concentration required when coaching is immense, therefore several over-caffeinated sugary drink company style beverages are an absolute necessity when working 10:00-22:00 shifts of routesetting/coaching at Ratho. Just ask any of the staff at Tiso’s in Ratho and they will tell you about my “Go Fast” (sweet over-caffeinated sugary drink company) addiction.

On top of all my coaching work, I have also landed a load of new journalism work for several people including my work with “Scottish Mountaineer (http://www.mcofs.org.uk/beastbuildingseries.asp)” and the beast building series, keeping my blog updated and everything else that I am working on right now which you will all see soon enough : )

Of course, with coaching, I am also responsible for several junior climbing athletes training program and structure such as William Bosi and Angus Davidson as well as the work I do outside of 1:1 sessions in building structured programs for climbers to follow! I have been doing a lot of these lately and have found that on top of all the other work I do, the best time to do all this paper work is between the hours of 12:00 (midnight) and 5:00 in the morning. Its just a peaceful time of day/night really when I am not disturbed by anyone but my dog (who likes to bite my computer screen).

And finally… after I have done all of this… I can then relax to some HARDCORE TRAINING SESSIONS!!! I’ve been enjoying my board quite a lot recently as well as the fantastic little bouldering venue of Alien Rock 2! A few hours spent pulling hard and beasting yourself is not exactly a rest, but I’ll be damned if I’m missing any training sessions before Spain!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Nat-Beastmaker.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=767)Nat playing on our new Beastmakers at EICA: Ratho! So yeah… 2 months of this roughly and I am pretty tired… thus the cold, black eyes and grumpiness of late (sorry to anyone who has had MR Grumpy lately, Its probably because I haven’t slept in 3 weeks : P ).

Anyway, I am totally psyched out my mind right now, I have only a few weeks left until I fly off to Spain for 2 months sport climbing with my best mates and Ratho have finally got round to building a stand for the beastmakers! WOOOOH! THANK YOU BUZZ AND GAZ! Now I can have some proper good wee training sessions in between coaching sessions : ) Amazing that it only took 8 years of searching for the biggest climbing wall in the world to find a place to stick a fingerboard!

So training wise – I am feeling good for Spain! I haven’t done a lot of routes, but been keeping up with circuits on my board. I set four new ones the other day around the 8a+ mark I think, did 2/4 of them and thought they where about 2 grades harder than the 8a’s and 8a+’s currently at Ratho so thats a good sign! I had a good burn on the on-sight of Gary’s new 8a+ on the comp wall! Managed to onsight until the main crux, fell off, then did it to the top. Think this would probably be 8b in Spain so thats also a good sign!

Good news on the coaching holiday front – Will Carroll (http://www.io-photography.co.uk/) has finished posters for the Yorkshire Climbing Trips in July (9th-12th + 13th – 16th) and we will be sending them out soon to walls around the country. The trips are going to be great, 3 days climbing with me and Nat focussing on on-sight and redpoint tactics at the crag with technical coaching from both of us, video analysis and Will Carroll there to take awesome photos of all the climbers in action! Should be a great team down there and the holidays have already had interest from several climbers at Ratho as well as others who have heard from the grapevine (even before posters have been distributed!). The cost of the holiday is £250 pp which does not include accommodation or food, only one professional coach and an international climbing superstar for 3 da

ys coaching on a 1:2 basis (4 places on each trip!).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Yorkshire-trip-poster1-724x1024.jpg)

Anyway, so far 2011 has been an awesome but very tiring year! Look out for new training articles from myself on-line and in the mags : D

ROBZ OUT!

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: EICA: Ratho Competition Setting!
Post by: comPiler on February 19, 2011, 12:00:21 am
EICA: Ratho Competition Setting! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=775)
18 February 2011, 11:56 pm

Hey guys!

The new problems for the comp @ the weekend have all been set! We have some spectacular new creations built in the bouldering room, the slab boulder and the 45 feature boulder. The new volumes built have definitely added a new dimension of funkyness to the ratho boulder cave, I was pretty psyched to be setting in there with all the brand new holds and volumes – look out for the pink mantel on the green volume and black slopey arete problem – those are my babies!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/comp-volumes-003-1024x768.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=776)Who knew how much a boy could love a volume : P We had a huge crew of psyched setter helping out today including Neil Busby, Neil Mcgeachy, Gary Vincent, Calum Forsyth, Ian Sneddon, Jamie Drummond, Mark Mcgowan and myself of course! This comp has by far the most interesting problems I’ve ever seen at such an event, even funkier than the BBC’s (which in comparison were more like Craig Y Longridge problems).

After the comp, I am going to write up a report on the event and you can see loads of results and some cool pics to go along with!

I am pretty dead now so I’ll leave it at that…

Check up tomorrow for the exciting low-down on the EICA: Ratho Bouldering Championships WOOOOOOHHHH!!!!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: EICA: Ratho Competition
Post by: comPiler on February 20, 2011, 12:00:21 am
EICA: Ratho Competition (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=782)
19 February 2011, 11:43 pm

Hey Guys!

I am absolutely knackered now, its been such a crazy day at Ratho. The competition was a massive success and everyone had a great time, especially on our new volumes : P  There was a massive turnout of competitors on the day and very strong competition in every category! In nearly every category there was a draw for top 3 places which shows that the field was obviously very strong. I was hanging about with most of the kids I coach during the day, so didn’t get to see a lot of the senior climbers taking down the hard problems, but from what I did see, there was some stunning performances in every category! One of the best parts of the day in my opinion, was watching little William Bosi (one of my young padawans) cruise up an adult problem after he had done every junior problem, not only flashing it, but skipping out nearly all the holds by mantling on a volume and reaching the last hand holds (missed about 15 moves this way!).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/184344_735861765330_36916410_44878558_561910_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=784)Nat doing the rock over from hell! (Photo by Will Carroll) I was hanging about the slab boulder for 90% of the comp, as this was where all the kids problems where held! I was assisting with all the kids I could, in particular the ones I coach regularly at EICA: Ratho. I was so impressed by the high level of performance of all the kids, but also the attitude each and every one of them had to competing. In my opinion, the most difficult thing about competing is not taking it too seriously, the main goal is to have fun and secondary is to win. If you enjoy yourself at the competitions, you will always win regardless of whether you beat anyone… and if you do actually win the comp, then thats a bonus : P Also, seeing every kid help each other out with problems, solving the puzzles together and working as a team is something else entirely I’ve never seen in any other sport and its a beautiful aspect of climbing that we seem to have. I watched as young Rory Whyte attempted a hard problem in the comp, fell off then as his friend Sam approached to do the problem, Rory’s only thoughts where off giving Sam some beta and encouraging him to top the problem as much as he could, knowing full well that if Sam topped he would be better of in the rankings!

There where three main problems in the junior (U13′s) category that seemed to break up the kids. These where all centered around one part of the wall, a vicious roof with the two hardest problems on it (orange + White) and a Ripple mantle pulling over the lip of the roof! The White was about V5/6 and the Orange definitely not easier than V5 for a kid. I’d say that the ripple was about V3ish, but the mantle was a deep lock and required flexible hips if you were short to reach the jug to which the final VB section of wall was reached i.e. a V3 with one move… a mantle! The ripple saw very few flash sends, only two that I witnessed (one from Sam and another from a young girl I hadn’t seen before).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/172491_10150157974880873_47941060872_8350253_5188162_o-1024x687.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=787)Rory Whyte powering his way through the orange roof of DOOM! (Photo by Dougie Wood) The Orange roof was very long and sequency (one of my addition to the comp : P ). It was absolutely essential to have the roof sequence perfect to complete the problem, otherwise it was impossible! William Bosi, a super talented climber and technical wizard made the flash look easy and got the sequence perfect, however everyone else struggled immensely with it, the two closest I saw where Rory, Sam and the other girl from Inverness. Rory was throwing himself continuously at the problem, every time looking a bit stronger and every time a bit close… but alas, no cigar! Sam had a solid sequence that was working for him, but over time, tiresome set in and he didn’t have enough left to complete it. The young girl I saw from Inverness was very impressive, making the crux look easy, but did not have the right sequence for the final pull over the lip and blew it right at the end : (

Finally, the white problem only saw one ascent, William Bosi did it 3rd go to raucous applause by the crowd of watching kids and parents. everyone was struggling with the slopey open-handed nature of the holds and the roof was core sapping with powerful moves between small jugs… basically I built this problem to be an anti-child friendly problem. Being good on slopers generally means having big hands, and little kids don’t generally have big hands, hence slopers don’t tend to mix well with kids : p So although we saw some sick effort on the problem, the white was left without a second ascent  : ( Big up to Kirsten Gray though for her awesome heel hooking extravaganza on it!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/180622_735861815230_36916410_44878561_2417010_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=788)Paul Williamson contorting his body (Photo by Will Carroll) In the U16′s, both Scott Kerr and Jamie Drummond topped all the problems in the qualifiers securing a joint 1st place each, so in order to split the tie, an exciting final was put on for the crowd where Jamie and Scott had to climb three problems and if one climbed more than the other then they would be the victor, otherwise it would go into a super-final to see who got the furthest on an even harder problem! The first problem to climb was a tricky green crimpy problem up the pillar, both Jamie and Scott misplaced their feet on the first move and slipped off, making them joint equal still! The second problem was a pink mantle (one of my special little additions to the comp!). Jamie was first up, cruising the whole first section of the problem he was looking good for topping out, but the mantle was still to come… Upon reaching the mantle, Jamie started huffing and puffing, getting psyched up for the hard pull! Psyched up, he threw himself over the volume into the mantle position, for a while he was battling against the pull of gravity, then suddenly he fell back off the volume… but to the astonishment of the crowd he was reluctant to let go and maintained contact with the volume! He was still on the wall and went for one last blast to bag the send and with one mighty push, he was over the mantle and matched on the final two holds!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/183863_735862019820_36916410_44878572_7351249_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=789)Scott Kerr slapping the crimp to win the U16's (Photo by Will Carroll) A huge roar burst from the crowd and no doubt Scott must have been shaking in his boots in isolation from what he must have heard. Next out, Scott ran over to the problem, chalked up and wasting no time at all got stuck in! Scott walked up the start, straight into the mantle and rolled over the volume straight into a standing position as if it were simply a step on a staircase! I know for a fact though that Scott had been practicing mantles at his local wall (Transition Extreme (http://www.transition-extreme.com/)), he had been showing me the one set a few weeks ago for a local bouldering comp and it was no wonder he cruised this problem! The final problem was Busby’s orange up the v-board! It waved about the wall, moving through three different volumes and made use of the mighty big bertha (http://www.holdz.co.uk/index.php/products/holds/bertha.html) hold from Holdz which is possibly one of the coolest holds on earth! Jamie came out into the crowd and quickly looked over the problem, chalked up and went for the send… He was looking solid so far, but then straight into Bertha came the tricky sequence! Around the corner of the board was a juggy crimp, only accessible via a subtle toe hook and balancy body maneuver, without the toe hook its hard to keep your feet on once you latch the crimp and generally if your feet cut loose here its all gone! Jamie got Bertha, grabbed the jug undercut to place the toe, but instead, placed a heel… he threw for the crimp but as he latched it his feet cut loose and he was off! Jamie left the wall disappointed and Scott came out looking focussed but nervous. After a quick read of the sequence, he was on the wall. Same as Jamie he approached Bertha cruising, into the same position he went, undercut with his right, Bertha with his left, he moved his foot up to place on Bertha… and it was a toe hook! He balanced himself, threw for the crimp, and he was still on!!! Raucous applause came from the crowd, he slapped up the wall onto the panel corner, squeezing it he eyed the next crimp, SLAP! He latched it!!! Moving on up, the rest wasn’t a problem for him and he topped out, the new EICA: Ratho Bouldering Competition U16 Champion!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/181954_735862104650_36916410_44878574_3386480_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=792)Neil Busby (L), Gary Vincent and Neil Mcgeachy (R)... what a bunch of muppets (Photo by Will Carroll) Unfortunately, I don’t have full results as of yet but will make the effort to get them uploaded onto the blog tomorrow! Nat Berry and Will Atkinson were the victors of the senior categories followed closely by Eddie Barbour and Anna Wells in second place!

It was a very busy day for me and I am pretty tired now, but the work doesn’t end yet, I still have to run the British Team Training Event tomorrow which hopefully will be a great success also! I have some cool ideas (one special in particular thanks to Geek) that will make tomorrow a fun and educational day for all the kids involved.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/182460_735862249360_36916410_44878582_6847266_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=793)Mark Mcgowan (L), Dougie Wood and myself... 2 x Coaches and a Photographer On a final separate note, I have had a crazy amount of interest for the Yorkshire trips so will probably be having to organise more trips around the same time, if you are keen to join in on them, please get in touch ASAP if you hope to book a place!

All the best guys and happy cranking!

ROBZ OUT

P.s. Check out Will Carroll’s website (http://io-photography.co.uk/) for more awesome pics as well as his flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/eversocoolphotos/), comp pics should be up soon!

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Results from EICA: Ratho Competition (Revised + Reviewed)
Post by: comPiler on March 08, 2011, 04:40:02 am
Results from EICA: Ratho Competition (Revised + Reviewed) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=811)
20 February 2011, 10:48 pm

 FULL REVISED RESULTS OF EICA: RATHO FUN BOULDERING COMPETITION

U13 Boys

1 William Bosi 195

2 = Robert Davidson 180

2 = Sam Harlend sendra 180

4 Rory Cargill 177

5 Jamie Pendan 175

6 Rory White 167

7 David Medzybrodzki 163

8 Harry stansfeild 157

9 Ruraidh Middleton 146

10 = Evan Davis 127

10 = Findlay Johnson 126

12 Euan Farmer 122

13 benFindlay 102

14 = Evan Rasmussen 89

14 = Guy Mathison 89

16 Declan Currie 87

U13 girls

1 Rebecca Kinghorn 180

2 Eilalh Vass Payne 177

3 = Emily Eadie 172

3 = Kirsten Grey 172

3 = Gabrialla Stewart 172

6 Keira Farmer 170

7 Morgan rodgers 165

8 Kirsten Taylor 164

9 Ellie Hogarth 156

10 Jodie Brown 154

11 Erili Geddes 107

12 Freya Baxter 99

13- 16 boys

1 scott Keir 200 (Winner in Finals Climb-Off)

2 Jamie Drummond 200

3 Steven Addison 197

4 Angus Davidson 186

5 Malcolm bradley 181

6 Scott donaldson 170

7 Ruaraidh Macaskill 163

8 Alex Bosi 150

9 andrew Hairsworth 93

10 Scott Govens 32

13-16 girls

1 Rachel Carr 197

2 Sophie Harper 147

3 Amy Anderson 146

4 Nikki Addison 145

5 Simla Green 139

6 Christie Macleod 107

7 Lyndsey Forsyth 106

8 Megan Saunders 79

9 Victoria Boyd 44

10 Hannah Dewar 30

Rec. Men

1 Alexei Matveyev 162

2 Gordon McKillop 161

3 John Sharples 147

4= Mike Lewis 145

4= Mitch Figures 145

6 Robbie Carruthers 140

7 David Carruthers 139

8 Grant Saunders 134

9 Colin Mcpherd 120

10 Ian Brown 108

11 Martin Wood 107

12 Lukas Solanka 99

13 Alex Scott 93

14 Mark Hammonds 83

15 Dave Brown 77

16 Tim Squires 70

17 David Wilson 55

18= Tom Jones 50

18= Sean Hiddleston 50

20 John Macleod 45

21 Paul Gowens 40

Rec.Women

1 Nicola Bishop 135

2 Gail Robertson 54

3 Avril Gall 50

4 Dawn Thomson 47

5 Kim Picozzi 45

6 Emily Raemaekers 22

Adv. Men

1 Will Atkinson 197

2 Eddie Barbour 184

3 John Brown 170

4 Andrew Simpson 162

5 Alex Gorham 160

6 Dylan Mackenzie 157

7 Kris Devlin 149

8 Mike Rudden 147

9= Ross Henighen 137

9= Merlin Floate 137

11 Paul Williamson 134

12 James McCartan 121

13 Will Carroll 102

14 David Gudmundsson 101

15= Nick O’Grady 100

15= Fraser Harle 100

17 Paul Raeside 94

18 Fraser Gibson 87

19 Donald Slatter 60

Adv. Women

1 Natalie Berry 125

2 Anna Wells 114

3 Xiao Xian Goh 93

4 Lasma Seitinsone 92

5 Eva Sparreboom 72

Vet. Men

1 Ruairidh Mackenzie 149

2 Neil Shepherd 146

3 Peter Roy 144

4 Robert Durran 137

5 Kevin Gibson 114

6 Dave Hainsworth 90

7 Ed Payne 52

8 Gregor Hannappel 50

9 Sandy Carr 49

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: MCofS Team Regional Training Meet (EICA: Ratho)
Post by: comPiler on March 08, 2011, 04:40:03 am
MCofS Team Regional Training Meet (EICA: Ratho) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=817)
21 February 2011, 12:16 am

 Hey Guys!

Only the day after our local bouldering competition, we have the British Team Regional Meet! Unfortunately, not all the team attended, in fact, there where only three actual team members present, Jonathan Field, Eleanor Hopkins and Angus Davidson. However, we had a full 10 youth climbers present to make up the numbers that are all 2011+ hopefuls for the British Climbing Team! Among these where EICA: Ratho crew:

Jamie Drummond

William Bosi

Megan Saunders

Gabby Stewart

Eilidh Vas Payne

and also we can’t forget those from outside the Edinburgh scene:

Rebekah Drummond (Dundee)

Rory Cargill (Inverness)

The day was a huge success! We had myself, Natalie Berry, Ross Kirkland, Neil Mcgeachy, Calum Forsyth and a new coach on the block, John Brown all giving a helping hand on the day!

The first part of the day was spent setting problems in pairs on the newly stripped bouldering room walls. Thanks to the competition, the walls had very few holds on them, giving all the kids a massive amount of freedom to let their creative climbing minds thrive amongst different coloured holds, different angles and shapes of the wall as well as all the new funky volumes we have! The reason for getting them to set was to allow them to better undrstand the movements they do on the wall, the mind of a route-setter and to really experience first hand the depths of thought required to set funky boulder problems. This will aid them massively for when they approach route reading on both boulders and routes at competitions and even just at the wall in future! I can say from my own personal experience, that setting has certainly opened my mind to the possibility of different sequences and movements the body can make on a climbing wall and I can say 100% for sure that I wouldn’t be as good a climber today if it wasn’t for my setting experience.

I split the kids into pairs and got them setting on what I thought was their anti-style, so as to force them to think about how to climb on a wall that they aren’t good at. Also, I added an extra challenge… they had to set the problems hard enough that they spit off everyonelse, but easy enough that they can climb them! This means that they have to think about their own strengths and weaknesses, how they can force other climbers into difficult moves and mask the sequence as much as possible. I stuck Angus and William on the back vertical wall to set some filth, Jamie and Rory on the mantle volume, Gabby and Eilidh on the steep prow, Megan and Rebekah on the 45 board and Eleanor and Jonny on the vert board at the back with the cunning arete feature : P

The problems set where all absolutely amazing! Everyone adapted well to the wall they where given and used their time and the support from the coaches wisely. Angus and William succeed in setting a V6 horror show on the vert board, a problem I only “just” flashed by the skin of my finger tips. The funny thing is, the moves they set where actually big for them, but bunched up and tiny for me! Jamie and Rory set the mantle from hell which only got one other ascent apart from themselves. Megan and Rebekah set an awesome power fest on the 45 which everyone flashed but was perfect for a good warm up into the comp. Eilidh and Gabs set another steep power fest on the prow board, again everyone flashed but a tiny slip from Rebekah almost saw her off! And finally Jonny and Eleanor (both unfortunately still injured) set a balancy freak show on the back vert board.

After all the problems where set, we headed for lunch, but where soon back to get stuck into the mock bouldering competition. The format of the comp was that of a BBC Final! Everyone was in isolation and had a total of 3 minutes viewing time together on each problem as well as 3 minutes attempting the problem (we had to cut the times a bit so that we weren’t doing this all night : P ). After viewing everyone went back into isolation and then we would proceed with the individual climbers coming out and giving each problem their best attempt. I’d say highlight of the day was watching Rebekah Drummond top the crazy mantle that Jamie and Rory had set on her final go!

In the end, we had one problem left that we used as a super-final to split the tied boys, Angus and William and tied girls, Gabby and Megan. Fortunately both William and Angus topped the super-final problem which lead to an even more exciting super-super-final!!! Angus lead the way with an impressive flash of the V6 pillar problem (not without a bit of huffing and puffing). Then William came out to a screaming crowd of parents, climbers who started to watch and his fellow competitors. Unfortunately William blew a foot sequence low down on and slipped off, but turned to the crowd, gave the crowd a cheeky William grin and said “I think I need stretchier trousers?”. I love how these kids are such awesome competitors, yet really, they just want to have fun, which in the end of the day is what its all about : ) How can you argue with that? Two of the best climbers in Britain for their age group and top 20 in Europe can compete against each other, but even during the competition, they are still good friends and are just as happy if the other was to win than themselves (well maybe not “as” happy, but still pretty happy : P ).

The day was a success and we finished with a little talk on how we prepare for comps and what we had learned from the day. I would like to give a massive thanks to the MCofS for giving us the support to run these sessions, and for what I think are possibly one of the most valuable assets these young competitors have, as well as to those that helped during the day!

Cheers Neil, Nat, Ross, Calum and John!

ROBZ OUT

P.s. pics of the day to come soon when Neil gets round to sending me some : P



Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Trad + Bouldering @ Northumberland!!!
Post by: comPiler on March 08, 2011, 04:40:03 am
Trad + Bouldering @ Northumberland!!! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=821)
23 February 2011, 1:06 am

Hey guys!

An amazing thing happened today… I went Trad climbing!!! I know many of you have said it would never happen, to actually get Robbie Phillips trad climbing, but today it did : P Actually… I have increasingly become psyched for trad over the last few months (basically since kalymnos). As trad is pretty much all you can do over 5m in Scotland, its the next best thing after sport. So last night I arranged with Andru Mols (Ex-Tiso @ Ratho employee) to head down to Northumberland (more or less Scotland : P ) for some bouldering and trad!

We headed down with two other Edinburgh based climbers/students, Tom Eadie and Robert Taylor. Both nackered after an epic on the ben, but psyched for some real rock (none of this winter garbage : P ). When we finally arrived at Back Bowden (after food shopping at Morrisons and the long slog behind some lorries) we surprisingly met up with two mates of mine from Edinburgh, Tim Cross (Ginger Tim @ Alien) and Sean Bell (Pro-photographer). They were just down for some bouldering and some photos, so I was psyched to get in on some of the action (I was prepared, sporting a fluoro-lime hoody and t-shirt from Edelrid).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/183048_10150103914168252_699708251_6199015_6717973_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=822)Gaining "The Tube"!!! (Photo by Sean Bell) First thing I did of the day was a nice wee 7A flash, it continued into an E2 that topped out of the crag, so I continued up that on solo! There was a really tricky section just after the boulder problem at about 5m up with some tasty monos and a horrible blind step onto a pocket! But all was good and I topped out with no problems : )  After that wee taste of adrenaline, I headed up to try a route called “The Tube”! This has been on my tick list since my first ever trip to Back Bowden with Neill Busby. When I watched him on it all those years ago, I said to myself that one day I would get on it. Its an awesome line, starting of up a pretty easy crack, moving up on some quite slopey features but still probably f6a climbing. After placing a couple of cams, you run it out straight into the break at the top of the crag! As I arrived here, I noticed the crack was wet and was very hesitant to continue, but on I went, I stepped up precariously and gained the upper break. Fortunately it wasn’t too bad, still quite dry on the actual hold, however, there was no gear here that I could find and I had already run it out quite a few metres. After toying with the thought to continue and risk it, the reality of Spain in 3 weeks time shot back into my mind and rather than potential broken bones, I opted for 2 months fun in Spain, so I down-climbed and backed away – it will still be here after Spain and maybe someone will have broken a nice big slot for a cam at the crux : ) Only joking!

After fun on “The Tube”, I headed down to check out some of the problems that Tim and Sean where playing on. Basically, they were all absolute filth and I had no real inclination to climb any of them other than the fact that everyone else seemed psyched… oh well!?!?! So I flashed the 7A, which I think may have ripped about 30 layers of skin of each pad on my fingers and I did the 6C after a few goes… really only because I had to figure out how to climb this problem without using any of the painful, blade crimps! So when I actually did the problem, I did it in 3 moves instead of my initial sequence which was 5 : )

After playing on the chossy, mossy, crimp fests, I headed over to the main cave and began work on a 7C that i had had a wee look at on a previous trip with Niall McNair and Nat. The good news was, it felt a lot easier i.e. I did it from the second move! The bad news was, I still can’t do the first one, however after talking to Andy Latta on the phone about an hour ago, he seems to have some tricky foot beta which makes the first move much easier : ) So thats for the next trip I think?

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/180035_10150103913943252_699708251_6199011_5526928_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=825)Into "The Tube"!!! (Photo by Sean Bell) I then headed over to see what Tim was on, a funky arete feature that i had climbed last time with Niall, however, this was more of an eliminate variation i.e. avoiding a crimpy rail out right. It was a really nice problem and I basically flashed it, apart from after mantling the top, my foot popped and I fell… a minor issue with the flash… BUT IM STILL TAKING IT!!! : P  Tim continued to try it a bit more as we left for Bowden, but after returning home I heard that it was to no avail and he had to leave, sacrificing the problem for some questionably deserved Belford cakes : P

Me and the guys headed round to Bowden for some more bouldering action, unfortunately, it started to rain as we got round and everything seemed to be kind of wet : ( I decided that Transformer LH looked like quite a good problem, so went for that! Graded 7C, it seemed like it would kind of be a bit folly going for this in such bad conditions, however after the first actual attempt after figuring out the sequence, it seemed remarkable that it might actually go! A couple of goes later I had ticked it, with wet shoes and in the rain?!?!?!?! The speed of the ascent was enough to doubt the grade, but also I think the conditions where another factor… I don’t like to downgrade, but there’s is no way in Bowden that that is Font 7C! I reckon probably 7B at most, it was tricky for me, but I am a pretty shoddy boulderer to say the least : P An ace problem, very eliminate which i hate, and very over-graded, but definitely worth it anyway, especially if you want to take the 7C tick which is perfectly acceptable in these modern grade hunting days : P

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/183983_10150103913773252_699708251_6199009_2897390_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=826)Tim Cross Crushing the V8 (Unfortunately, not crushing hard enough) Photo by Sean Bell With that in the bag, we headed home… Another successful and fun day in the county : )

Also, well done to Tom for ticking his first “real” 7A, so he says and cheers to Robert for belaying me and giving me a crash course in gear placements before “The Tube”!!!

All photos are by Sean Bell (http://www.seanbellphotography.com/) as well – cheers man for the awesome pics!

Finally, I also want to say a big thanks to my sponsors Edelrid (DB Outdoor) for supplying me with all my kit for Spain this week, some of which I was using today at northumberland : )

20 x Beautiful Edelrid Quickdraws (http://www.edelrid.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1222&Itemid=780&lang=en)

2 x 80m Ropes (9.1mm (http://www.indoor-rock.co.uk/product/kite_climbing_rope) + 10mm (http://www.indoor-rock.co.uk/product/cobra_60m_limited_edition_rope))

New Crag Bag

Lots of new clothes (http://www.indoor-rock.co.uk/climbing-shop/climbing-clothing)

2 x New Pairs of Edelrid Climbing Shoes (Typhoons (http://www.indoor-rock.co.uk/product/the_edelrid_typhoon_rock_shoe) + Ravens (http://www.indoor-rock.co.uk/product/edelrd_raven_cllimbing_shoe))

Nice one guys!!! Catch ya’s all later!

ROBZ OUT

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/edelrid_logo.jpg) (http://www.edelrid.de/index.php)

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Route Setting @ Kendal Wall
Post by: comPiler on March 08, 2011, 04:40:03 am
Route Setting @ Kendal Wall (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=834)
28 February 2011, 10:10 am

Hey guys!

For the next 2 days I am going to be based in the lakes, Kendal Wall to be precise. I haven’t actually been here before but have heard its an awesome wall to climb at and am looking forward to putting my creative skills to the test by setting them some totally radical new routes and boulder problems! From what I’ve heard of various people, the Kendal Wall used to be one of, if not the tallest wall in the UK! Obviously this was before Ratho, but still 20m high walls are not to be taken lightly. In my opinion, 20m is the perfect length for sport climbing indoors and out. Its at the stage were you don’t lose out on having hard sustained sequences because the walls/routes are too high/long and its more realistic to what we have in the UK. Don’t get me wrong, having high walls and long routes has its advantages, but when you are forced to climb on shorter panels it definitely makes power endurance training a bit easier, plus I love having consistently difficult and strenuous moves with little or no rest on a route, something I find really difficult to set at Ratho because the routes are so long!(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/lakeland-climbing-centre-lake-district-logo.gif) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=836)

I reckon setting at Kendal Wall is going to be a bit of a challege, since I am so used to working on much higher walls, but I do love a challenge : ) I will be at the wall climbing on Monday and Tuesday night testing out the new problems and routes and will upload pics tonight and tomorrow of what I’ve set, so if you fancy a session climbing or are after some beta on a few of the new classics (hopefully : P ) then feel free to come over and have a chat with me and I’ll go over them with you : ) I’ll probably be the one wearing a lot of green and climbing an absolute shambles because I’m so nackered!

Hope you all enjoy the setting!

Robz

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: The Equation of Tiredness…
Post by: comPiler on March 08, 2011, 04:40:03 am
The Equation of Tiredness… (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=840)
3 March 2011, 11:19 pm

 Hey Guys…

Birthday + 3(Climbing)(Bowden/Kendal Wall) + 2(Setting @ Kendal) + Coaching(Edinburgh) = Northumberland –> Edinburgh –> Kendal –> Edinburgh = HEADACHE!!!!!

This is the equation of my tiredness right now : P I am pretty exhausted after my recent route setting trip to Kendal Wall. I had an absolutely awesome time hanging out with the Cumbrian crew in Kendal setting and climbing for two days, but I can’t deny it wasn’t hard work! There are now some stunning new lines for the locals to get their fingers stuck into including a windy 6b  and 7a+ on the main wall, a spicy pinchy 7c on the short steep board, a roof tastic 360 degree spinner horror show 7b on the main wall right side as well as 3 sick new circuits, 2 upstairs in the green room and 1 downstairs on the vert boards! I was mainly setting routes on the first day but afterwards, ran up to the green room to check out all the boulder circuits Kendal had to offer (set by Ian Vickers). I managed to flash the entire pro-circuit (the hardest one) apart from one problem (because I missed a volume which I thought wasn’t included). I was pretty chuffed with my bouldering that night because of this as the Circuit was meant to be a V6 – V9 circuit, and for me, flashing all those problems was an awesome acheivement!(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Kendal-Main-Wall-Routes.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=842)(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Kendal-Wall-7c.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=843)

Anyway, this gave me quite a good idea of how hard their problems where in each graded circuit, so for my boulder setting day, I would be prepared and ready to set some awesome circuits! The Bouldering room I was setting in first is called the “Green Room”. Its an awesome little wall with lots of character and some pretty cool angles including a mega roof with additional volumes, mantel board with long slab above and a jutting out flake feature which works well for stemming and lay-backing. As I had done most of the problems in the room the night before, I kind of knew the style of problems already set and I wanted to add something new, something of my own that the locals will love! Perhaps they will hate me for it, but I noticed a serious lack of contortion despite the Vickers setting : P I set two circuits in the green room and made sure to have plenty of balancy rock over mantles, lots of high stepping, a couple of weird ass moves such as bat-hangs to match the final hold and 360′s in the roof! A lot of funk-tastic setting if you ask me : P After setting in the green room, I headed downstairs and finished of with the last circuit of my trip, a V4-V6 Green spotty on the vertical boards downstairs. This was a bit more of a challenge and I tried my best to avoid setting total filth, I think I did a good job : )  I set a horrendous slab problem which is probably about V6 in its own right pulling of the ground, but I figured out some cunning beta to balance yourself which involved flagging your foot behind your butt – another interesting and very not-obvious move. My favourite though was the last problem I set, which was on the vert board closest to the main hall. This involved flipping hands several times on nearly every handhold to balance your way to the top! If you can add at least an one extra hand position to every hold in order to allow completion of the problem, then you know you’ve done a good job!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/188962_1733515291317_1041573112_1916671_3738472_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=846)Lulu is spotting me : P Not very well! BAD DOGGY! Anyway, I had such a blast setting down at the Lakeland Climbing Centre i.e. Kendal Wall, and I really hope they ask me back to set. Thanks very much Tom and Liam for all your help during my stay and for genuinely being really cool guys! And cheers to the whole Kendal Wall crew staff and non-staff for all the help and my after-birthday meal : ) Looking forward to next time!

As well as my little trip down to the Lakes, the day before I was also at Kyloe In and Bowden with Nat, Sean and Andy for some boulder action! It was definitely the best trip I’ve had down so far purely due to the weather which was close to perfect, if it hadn’t been for a slight drizzle. First we headed to Kyloe In the Woods, we had a quick we warm up on a few traverses down on the left-hand side and then a really fun highball V1 which Andy was crapping himself on : P

After warming up me and Andy had a little play on “Crouching Tiger” a spicy 7B+! It wasn’t too bad actually, I did it up until the last move on one of my first few attempts, however, the holds where tiny, sharp and painful and my feet weren’t really standing on much, so after a few goes and my skin looking a little like grated cheese, we stopped : P Then we moved onto “Cubby’s Lip” 7B+. I had done this before and managed to repeat it comfortably to the last move (matching the jug) when my foot popped, but I wasn’t too bothered since I had done the problem a while back. Nat however made an almost effortless flash attempt straight to the last hard move, then her heeled popped and she was on the ground again : ( Every attempt after that looked good but her finger was bothering her a bit and so we sacked it off for Bowden, not

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/183005_10150107485448252_699708251_6233707_616057_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=847)Andy Latta on "Playing Rudies" 7B (Photo by Sean Bell) before Andy however got a few glory shots of his attempts on a 7B dyno : P

At Bowden, the temps where absolutely perfect and because we got there a bit later in the day, the sun was right over the crag warming us at the same time when we weren’t climbing : ) Absolutely perfect if you ask me! I had some fun on a 7A dyno which took a number of goes. When I finally did it, Andy and Nat had been looking the other way and neither of them beleived me that I had done it, even though I was matching on the final hold when they turned! Andy claimed I had somehow cheated (Dick!) so I was forced to repeat it on the spot… luckily… I did! Then I moved slightly right and did another 7B+ in a few attempts called “Poverty”, similar to “Transformer” that I did a week or so ago, I reckon this is probably now in the region of 7A+/B? Then I tried my hand at “Working Class” 8A+! I was really surprised at this, managed to do all the first moves and straight to the second last move really, which happens to be the crux and probably 90% of the difficulty of the problem, then I gave up hahaha! I’ll be back though!

After gathering our stuff, we headed back towards the others at “Transformer”, but on the way I spotted the much tried and classic  7B+ “Vienna”! There was no chalk, but its a pretty obvious one when it comes to sequence. I tried it once and slapped the final jug… second go and it was despatched! Probably another 7A+/B in reality for me, especially since I am a bit taller, but I can admit that I reckon it would be tougher if I wasn’t as flexible since I managed to make a high foot that Andy reckons not many get?

Then we headed back to the others who where trying “Tranformer RH” 7A. I managed to bag a quick retro-flash of this and then went for a repeat of “Transformer LH” 7C/B? Which I fell off on the final move (pretty tired now : P ). Nat played a bit on LH which she looked strong on but lacked the height to make the crimp to undercut move as easy as I could and fell of at this point a couple of times. As soon as I can drive, I am forcing Nat to come down with me every week here and I want to see her dispatch everything in the county – I reckon she could with her fingers of steel : P

After a lot of fiddling with strapping getting the mats on the roof of the car, we were back on the road and heading straight back up to Edinburgh for my 21st Birthday meal : P  We were a wee bit late, but it was a good sacrifice for such an awesome day out at county with my friends : )

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Sean-Heel-Hooking.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=856)Sean Bell on "Monty Pythons" 6C+ or 7A+ ss (Photo by Robbie Phillips) What a good weekend! After my two days of Kendal route setting, I then had a coaching session with the young masters of rock, William and Alex Bosi. We spent a good chunk of the session setting a hard project for them (v7ish?). Since I will be gone for 2 months of Williams training, it is essential that I get him kitted out with training to do whilst I am away, so we made a circuit of boulder problems together for him to go at every boulder session and the project is something he can work on every time he comes in for a bouldering session, although it looks like it might go pretty soon? I have been increasingly working with Alex more and more and I can tell you, he is a kid we need to watch out for. He has been ripping up the boulders at Ratho recently making quick ascents of most in the V4-6 region, even flashing his first V5′s last night! BEAST! Lets hope for a YCS final placing this year dude!

And now its only 5 days until Spain, I have all my kit ready and accounted for, my fitness may be a bit crap but I am just hoping to be healthy and well before I get there, no last minute bugs or injuries! Bring on Spain and 2 months of nothing but bolt clipping! PSYCHED!!!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: County Again!!!
Post by: comPiler on March 08, 2011, 04:40:04 am
County Again!!! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=875)
6 March 2011, 4:28 pm

Hey Everyone!

I’ve increasingly been getting sucked into this crazy Northumberland climbing thing : P As I live in Edinburgh, I have a choice of either volcanic choss (Dumby) or going to the beach (Northumberland). I remember my days at the seaside fondly and remember how much fun building sandcastles is, then remember better how much more fun tearing them down is… so I opt always for Northumberland : D This is what a day at Bowden is like hahahaha only joking! Today, me, Nat, Busby, Ali Cashman and Tony Stone headed down to the county for some sandstone sliding action! It was looking to be a great day and hopes where high for some sun and sand!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Nat-Bowden-680x1024.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=877)Nat @ Bowden (Photo by Robbie Phillips) On arrival, we encountered a strange creature lurking the crag, Ian Small! He had been in search for some climbing to do on his tod and without a spotter had almost opted to head back up to Edinburgh, however, now that we had arrived he joined in with our merry crew. Nat and I had decided to become loners for the day and sneakily crept off to do some bouldering elsewhere whilst the “old-timers” stuck to their pottering : P

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Nat-Captain-Haddock-680x1024.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=878)Nat on "Captain Haddock" 7A+ (Photo by Robbie Phillips) I had seen quite a cool little video the previous night of a guy doing a 7B+ at Bowden, so after a quick wander about to try and find the elusive problem, I found what appeared to be a black flat vertical wall with some chalked up pinscars. The problem was in fact “Temptation” and both me and Nat had a little play on it. After about 4 or 5 attempts, I had figured out a good sequence and was slapping the final hold, unfortunately I kept slipping of it and I wasn’t committing enough to the move since we only had one mat (I’m a pansy) and so I eventually sacked it off to save some skin for what I really wanted to do… “V CRIMPS”!!!

Nat and I headed down to the little cave to check out the elusive “V Crimps” 7C. I had heard about this problem from a mate of mine, Chris Miele. It looked absolutely sick and took quite a bit of figuring out to find exactly where it went (including a phone call to Andy Latta to give me beta : P ). After the phone call, I started to make really good progress, now managing to go from the sitter all the way to the double crimps (hence the name “V Crimps”) but failing now on the cut-loose : ( Andy had told me of some trickery that Roddy Mackenzie had done, by sticking his left foot under the roof and toeing down on a foothold to kill the swing? First time I tried this, amazingly my knee fell against the underside of the lip of the roof and I got a good kneebar, enabling me to complete the next crucial foot manouvre (initially the crux for me) and then make the final move to gain the undercut to reach the final jug! After a few more attempts and failing on the final move each time, at last I gained the undercut without my foot popping, stood up and reached the final jug rail! IN THE BAG!!!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/robbie-sprung.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=879)Me on "Sprung" 7C (Photo by Natalie Berry) Next up on the agenda was the razor-blades from hell i.e. “Sprung” 7C! Nat and I quickly went over the sequence together, establishing our hand positions then figuring out our foot beta. Two attempts in and I had reached the final hard move, a cross through from a really sharp crimp to a positive edge. On my third attempt I fell after slapping the edge and on my fourth go hit the edge, stuck it and finished the problem off! YAY!!! This was a good day for me doing two 7C’s (V9) in a day. I think “V Crimps” was good for the grade, quite a bit easier for me I think because of my height but still a notch harder than all the 7B+’s at Bowden. “Sprung” however I thought was probably a bit soft? I reckon 7B+ would be more accurate, if you’ve got enough skin and are willing to pull hard then its yours! Both quality problems and I’m psyched I chose them for today : )

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Buz-Transformer.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=880)Neill Busby on "Transformer" 7C (Photo by Robbie Phillips) After the success on these, I wasn’t too bothered about doing anything else, so me and Nat drifted back along the crag to check up on the other guys. They where throwing themselves at “Transformer” 7A+ and Buz and Tony where after the eliminate left-hand variation given 7C. Unfortunately Buz and Tony, although making good progress, didn’t finish it, however Ali and Ian both successfully climbed there project for the day and where happy with that.

Nat and I moved along the crag to try our hands at “The Crack” 8A! After 5 minutes of failing on the first move over and over again, we gave up and set off back to the car, stopping briefly to do “Captain Haddock” 7A+. Another good day out at the county : ) I’m off again tomorrow to Kyloe Out with Andru Mols so will blog again with some updates on my progression with “Northern Territory” 7C+ (V10)!

PSYCHED!!!

ROBZ OUT

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/VCrimps-1.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=881)Me on "V Crimps" 7C (Photo by Natalie Berry)

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Northern Territory!
Post by: comPiler on March 08, 2011, 04:40:04 am
Northern Territory! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=893)
7 March 2011, 10:13 pm

Hey guys!

I’m only one day away from flying off to Spain now : ) Psyched out my mind for some steep spanish limestone, but just as psyched for some steep northumberland sandstone! Today I headed to Kyloe Out the Woods with two mates of mine, Andru Mols and Tom Eadington. Lulu came as well : P

They where up for anything really, a bit of trad and bouldering whilst I was more keen to finish of “Northern Territory” 7C+ (V10) since my feeble attempts before with Niall McNair in the cold. We arrived at the crag early, Tom and Andru headed out to do some trad whilst I took the boulder mats and got warmed up for the project! I started off with a few easy problems then warmed my fingers up on a tricky 7A+ called “Bar Skittles”. I didn’t do it then, but came back later on during the day with Tom and Andru and finished it off. “Bar Skittles” is a really techy and subtle problem, requiring a very precise body position to make the final move to the juggy arete, at one point I had my toe parallel with my head (toe hooking a crack) as I stretched out to reach a tiny little gaston crimper within a crack! : P

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Tom-on-Crack.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=895)Tom bouldering out a spicy crack problem @ Kyloe Out... Lulu is spotting : ) After warming up, I headed down to try “Northern Territory”! I needed to familiarise myself with the moves again, so I looked over the problem, brushed all the holds, then started re-acquainting myself with the sequence. After a few goes, I had already made it to the final hard moves and was only failing to latch a two finger pocket! Then suddenly, on one attempt, I latched the hold I’d been struggling on previously and it felt like the easiest move in the world! It felt so easy now, I moved up statically to grab the next pinch… solid… then statically locked off to grab a two finger pocket… SAFE! After that, I through in a knee bar, reached to the next pinch and the rest was mine : ) SENT! I through in a few power screams for effect : P but the start felt so much easier than ever before. I was so psyched, what a perfect way to end the Bouldering season…

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/LULU-SLab.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=897)Lulu soloing a Diff slab... too bold for me! Andru and Tom came down from doing trad and attempted “Prime Time” 7B+. Andru was really close but unfortunately left without a tick, maybe next time dude. After getting some pictures of Andru soloing a severe crack, we headed round the corner to check out some bouldering on the other side of Kyloe i.e. the place I warmed up. It was then that I managed to finally do “Bar Skittles” 7A+ and even flash a very tricky 7A mantle problem called “Smooth Operator”. I got shut down on an annoying sandy 7A called “Quarry Arete”. Andru didn’t get much done here, however Tom managed to do the 6C version of the mantle 2nd go!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Andru-Mols-Solo-680x1024.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=896)Andru soloing a Severe crack @ Kyloe Out It was getting late now, but there was still some light left, so we headed to Bowden to finish the day off. We started off playing in the cave, Andru was keen to do “Cave Right Hand” 6B+ so we spent some time on this fun little roof problem. Eventually Andru did it, Tom close but no cigar and we headed across the crag to the further left hand side of the wave. I soloed a nice HVS called “Shiner” and played on “Working Class” 8A+ a little. By now my skin was wrecked, however, I did try “Working Class” a bit last time and it seemed like it could be a good problem for me to work long run, so I am planning on trying it a little every time I come to Bowden. It isn’t too hard until the last move really and its this that you need some guns for, but I think I could do it eventually. PSYCHED!!!

Tom pissed up “Toffs Jump” 7A, being 6’3″ makes it quite easy, then he played some more on the left hand version, a lot harder! Andru threw himself (literally) at “Toffs Jump” 7A for well over half an hour, then when the sun set, gave up despite some very close efforts… maybe next time : )

Another good day out at the county… is it ever not a good day?

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: willackers on March 08, 2011, 07:55:25 am
Good work Robbie!

You'll be climbing 9a in no time!

Willz out
Title: SPAIN 2011 (Part 1)
Post by: comPiler on March 14, 2011, 12:00:25 am
SPAIN 2011 (Part 1) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=913)
13 March 2011, 9:51 pm

Hey Guys

Its gonna be a quick post today as I don’t have a lot of time, so mainly on how everyone has been doing : )(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Mark-gone-mental-300x199.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=914)

On the first two days, we all head to the main arena, Santa Linya Cave! This place is home to some of the hardest routes in the world including the monstrous 40-50m long 9b, “Neanderthal”!!! Who else would we see on our very first day at the crag, none other than the very best climber in the world, Adam Ondra! He was taking huge whippers of this crazy route and even bigger tantrums : P

Mcgeek and I got stuck into working the mega classic 8b “Blomu” whilst Ross and Calum got stuck into some of Santa Linyas 7b’s and 7b+’s. Calum came mega close to onsighting the 7b on his warm up go, the came agonisingly close to onsighting another 7b+, yet no cigar for the young gun. Ross then went on to get the same 7b+ on his second try and then moved on to working the 7b+ start to “Airline” 8a.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/mcgeek-on-crack-300x199.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=915)Mcgeek lost his mind many years ago... It was my first attempt at “Blomu” however Neil had tried it on a previous trip. The main thing I found out was just how of of sync you can be on a trip after such a long time from doing any other sport climbing. To be honest, I was only expecting this first 2-3 weeks to be adjusting to climbing on sport after 3 months of only bouldering. One thing I was finding on the first couple of days was that I was getting mega pumped on nearly everything, however, since then I have found that I am getting better and better and adjusting to climbing on rock more so each day that goes by. We’ve only climbed 3 days so far, but I’ve already got a couple of 7c’s ticked an 8a almost and two 8b projects both of which are looking good so far : ) The route I tried today was called “Preventiva” 8b.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/ross-potter-300x199.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=916)Ross after over-caffeinated sugary drink company! Its an amazing overhanging power fest of jumps of pockets and a thrutchy undercuts traverse to finish with one final lunge to latch the last jug! I thought that this route might very well be the craziest route I have ever tried and am psyched out of my mind to go back tomorrow and have some red-point attempts on it! The cool thing about this route is how every crux has such a low-percentage of sticking. The first crux is a jump to catch a dodgy sloping jug in a crack, the second crux is another jump to catch a sloping pinch and the third crux is a rising traverse on undercuts with no footholds and a heartbreak of a last move which involves a big lunge from undercuts to a jug at the top of a 7c+ line to the right. Also, there is the added option of continuing to the top of the crag and taking 8b/+ (in the guide) which involves a 2 move crux of an 8a, not sure though if it really warrants the extra plus (doubt it)?

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Calum-in-the-sun-300x225.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=917)Calum soaking in some rays : P Anyway, having a great time so far and hoping to get some cool pics of the climbing over the next week, so stay tuned for more news of our adventures in Spain : D

Robz Out!

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Spain (ROUND 2)
Post by: comPiler on March 20, 2011, 12:00:24 am
Spain (ROUND 2) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=923)
19 March 2011, 9:05 pm

Hey guys!

Sorry for the lack of updates on Spain, I will make an effort to do better from now on : ) After tomorrow I will write up a healthy report of the full trip, but for now you will have to do with this. The last few climbing days have been spent at the awesome crag of Disblia, set amidst the rocky outcrops of Sant Llorenc de Montgai. I have been attempting a tricky 8b here which has spat me off the last move a heap load of times : (  all in good time though… I managed to onsight an 8a and flash a 7c+ here as well as ticking a few spicy 7c’s in between 8b attempts.

Ross Kirkland has been on fire, coming pretty darn close to flashing an 8a today and making some impressive ascents of a few 7b’s and a 7c at the cave (Santa Linya).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Calum-12-monkeys-300x199.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=927)Calum looking a bit mental : P Calum has been finally getting into the flow and was looking strong on a spicy 8a at Disblia today and even managed to redpoint his very first 7b! Nice on dude! He has come close to onsighting several 7b+’s and i’m sure he will show us a lot more in the next 9 weeks!

Mcgeek has really stepped it up a notch today, achieving his first 8a flash!!!! NICE ONE DUDE!!! This has been Geeks dream for a long time and has certainly taken the pressure of him for the rest of the trip, now its time to get stuck into the projecting and see some more 8b tickage!

Big news for Mark Mcgowan, he flashed his first 7a+ in Spain only two days ago, his first 7b flash since he’s returned to climbing literally only one day ago and today has flashed his first 7c ever!!! It really shows that hard work and determination earn results! Now lets see 8b dude!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Pegi-Nocturno-300x225.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=926)An awesome 8a in the cave! Big numbers for all the team out here in Spain and only 10 days into our trip : ) Places we will be spending more time at over the coming 10 weeks are Santa Linya, Disblia, Teradets, Rodellar, Tres Ponts, Siurana, Margalef and Montsant!!!

PSYCHED!

ROBZ OUT

P.s. I also got close on an 8a+ onsight – Its only a matter of time : )

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: TEAM ESPANOL!!!
Post by: comPiler on March 22, 2011, 12:00:44 am
TEAM ESPANOL!!! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=930)
21 March 2011, 8:44 pm

Hey Guys!!!

So I’m out in Spain right now, Catalunya to be precise which is in northern Spain. I am out here with a bunch of my friends from Edinburgh, Neil Mcgeachy, Ross Kirkland, Calum Forsyth and Mark Mcgowan. Myself, Neil Mcgeachy and Mark Mcgowan all coach climbing for a living and Ross and Calum are budding coaches in the making, so it certainly has been an interesting trip so far with many fascinating conversations on training and coaching. Even speaking to Tom and Lynne about how they view training and coaching has been intriguing. Tom is one of the best British Sport climbers, climbing up to an amazing level of 9a/+ and onsighting 8b+, so chatting to him about his views on training and coaching has been good fun.

The area of discussion recently has revolved around the idea of having a team ethic on the trip. Climbing is a very individual sport, where its all about the climber on the wall in his own little bubble of thought. Perhaps trad climbing is the exception where a connection between belayer and lead climber becomes a little closer, but on a sport climbing/bouldering trip, how can a connection open between more than just the climber on the wall and the rock he is climbing on?

Me and the guys have been having on-going chats throughout the trip about what affects our mental game individually. For myself, when attempting hard projects, it definitely comes down massively to how I feel i.e. if I’ve been enjoying myself then I definitely am more likely to send a hard route. I notice that when I get frustrated and begin to doubt myself, I won’t make the same progress than i would normally than if I am confident and surrounded by positive emotion. After discussing what our goals for the trip where and how we planned to complete them, we invented the idea of “The Team”! The idea of the team is that each member has his/her own goals and ambitions for the trip, but are equally as dedicated and motivated to seeing the other members of the team succeed with their own goals. Of course, this concept works in our situation perfectly because we are all already good friends and most of us have been on many trips together, but the idea of the team only reinstates in our minds that every member is behind us on every project and every goal for the trip! When I go for a hard project, every member is at the crag pushing me upwards with positive vibes and if I fall then every member is there to psyche me back up again! Its definitely been working and I can say for sure that I have been enjoying projecting hard routes a lot more than in the past, now it doesn’t feel like a solo mission, but instead like a team effort!

Something else we’ve been chatting about massively, is the nature of mental focus needed when attempting a hard project or onsight route. What type of mental state do we need to be in? Where does our focus need to lie? This is all very individual e.g. Mark likes the quiet so he can concentrate and I like the whole team to be shouting encouragement, but the cool thing about the team ethic is that now we can have confidence to talk to each other as a team and vocalise how we want to approach the route i.e. Mark tells us to shut up and I tell them to turn it up!!! My approach to a hard redpoint or onsight is more aggressive! I like to feel that I’m going to rip the rock apart, of course this needs to be controlled a bit because I don’t want to be burning more energy on easier parts of the route, so learning to pace is also essential! Yesterday, I attempted a project of mine at the end of the day. It was a bit crazy because I was totally knackered after a full days climbing, but after psyching myself up to the max with the help of the team, managed to fire up an awesome fight through each crux until the very last move and got closer than any previous attempt despite being in a far worse state! This just shows the power of the mind and its ability to bring out the best in your performance, but don’t forget, it can also bring out the worst!

In the end of the day, you need to find what works for you, how you tick, and this takes experience at the crag and a conscious effort by you to learn from your mistakes. Its taken me many trips to suss what works for me and its still very far from being perfected! Chatting to Tom about this was intriguing, he says that he, still after years of climbing at a very high level is still learning what works for him. His belief is that guys like Ondra and Sharma have learned what works for them and use this everyday to make climbing at the highest levels easier for them, we can certainly learn from them!

Anyway, theres still plenty to learn about my personal climbing out here so I’m going to leave you with that to ponder on for now : )

Catch ya’s soon!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: The Art of Projecting and Climbing Development
Post by: comPiler on March 24, 2011, 06:00:25 pm
The Art of Projecting and Climbing Development (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=934)
24 March 2011, 12:40 pm

Hey Guys!

I have just completed my first project in Spain! I am so happy right now, I have been falling from the last move loads of times over the past couple of days and have been getting rather frustrated at the continual denial with the chains so close in sight, but I suppose I wouldn’t be learning as much if I was getting to the top of everything first go : P

I thought I’d talk a bit about my experiences of projecting and what I have found works well for me when attempting them. I remember, the four biggest projects I’ve had in my climbing career so far:

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Steve-Mcclure.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=935)"Toadall Recall" (8a), Malham Raindogs was a big thing for me when I was trying it. It would have been my first 8a at the time but I was having major issues grabbing those chains! On my first ever day trying it, I managed to make it all the way from the ground to the last move, but just couldn’t stick it! A few weekends more trying to latch those chains and still no success. I could practically lap the route until the chains but each time would be spat of with nothing more than a tickle of those glistening metal ringlets… DAMN!

I was all set for a trip out to Spain and left the UK having not ticked Raindogs yet. My coach Neil Mcgeachy had said, “get an 8a ticked out in Spain and come back and see how Raindogs feels afterwards”, so out I headed to seek my first 8a! Low and behold, within the first week I had ticked my first 8a “Trio Ternura”, a bouldery 8a at the Santa Linya cave. After returning to the UK, Neil and I organized a weekend at Malham for me to try and finish of the project. Within the first session back on Raindogs, I ticked the bloody route without so much as a sweat. The fact that I had overcome the 8a grade in Spain meant that my anxiousness towards climbing that grade had been settled and no longer was I thwarted by lack of confidence at the chains. This was a huge stage in my development as a climber and is definitely a huge factor in all my climbing achievements since! Confidence is a massive player in a climbers performance, and its not just your ability to say “I can do this route”, it is an intrinsic idea that needs to have manifested itself from success on previous routes. Why do you think once you climb one route at a grade, a lot more come so soon after? Its not coincidence…

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSC05598-Desktop-Resolution.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=936)Paul Williamson doing onsight mileage on 7c+ at Kalymnos - "Raptors Maw" 7c+ FA Rollito Sharma was the next big lesson in my climbing career. I tried this route for three weeks solid! I got so close to completing it but unfortunately had to retreat and return home without the tick : ( In some ways, I look back and think, what a bloody waste of time! If I’m honest, I wouldn’t do what I did with Rollito again i.e. constantly try one route for 3 weeks or more. I think it was a learning stage for me, I realized what I was capable of, but also that climbing is more than just grades and ticking a bigger number, and in order to see improvements, you must experience the mileage throughout your development. I have had a think about the different stages of my development as a climber and what type of climbing I was into at each stage, and it looks a bit like this:

Stage 1 (Outdoor Climbing Starts) – Mileage on lots of varying styles of routes at an easy grade level of 6a-7a (I had climbed 7b/+ indoors at the time)

Stage 2 (Developing my Outdoor Climbing) – Onsight mileage i.e. climbing lots of routes at just below hardest onsight grade. At the time was climbing 8a redpoint indoors and 7c onsight so was aiming to onsight lots of 7a-b+’s outdoors and any I didn’t do onsight I would do 2nd or 3rd go.

Stage 3 (Consolidating Onsight Grade Outdoors) – Harder Onsight Mileage i.e. Attempting to onsight at total limit! Still had only onsighted 7c indoors but was now going for 7c and 7c+ onsight outdoors and any I didn’t do onsight I would do 2nd or 3rd go afterwards!

Have a look at my 8a scorecard in 2008 to see what I got up to during this phase (http://8a.nu/)

Stage 4 (Consolidating Redpoint Grade Outdoors) – A couple of years later and I start to consolidate my redpoint grade and deal with mental strategies and the mind as my limiting factor in performance. Have now onsighted 8a indoors and redpointed 8b so outdoors I am aiming for quick redpoints i.e. nothing that will take longer than a week (8a+ – 8b+) – This is the stage I am currently in…

Its amazing looking at this on paper now, it is a natural progression for a climber to take and I am positive that the majority of climbers out there will be on a similarly progressive developmental structure. Looking at the two younglings out with us here in Spain right now, Ross Kirkland and Calum Forsyth, it is evident that they are doing exactly what I have done only at a slightly different pace and grade level.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_0297.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=937)Adam Ondra in the zone - does he get redpoint stress? Anyway, the next big project that stood out was probably “Gaia” in Kalymnos late last year. It was something that I had seen being attempted years before by one of Britains top climbers and it even spat him of for several days! “Gaia” is very short and powerful, probably my anti-style to be honest, so this was very much a “is this possible for me?” kind of project. It took me a few days of hard work, but in the end, I saw the fruits of my labour and sent it. I think that it was necessary for me to establish my redpoint grade in a style that I wasn’t strong at, and because I did with “Gaia”, I am now more confident than ever of my abilities to climb hard in different styles as well as even harder in the styles that suit me.

The final big project for me was of course “Preventiva”, which I did only a few days ago. This was another big thing for me, not because of the grade really, but because of the style. It is very bouldery with good rests in-between. The final section of climbing is solid and it leaves the hardest move of the whole climb right until the end, a burly move from big undercuts and bad smears out right to a good jug. The reason why I was adamant to complete this route was merely the fact that the last section was so hard. It was amazing climbing until the final crux and probably about 8a+ to get there. I had what I refer to as “Raindogs syndrome” here. I fell at that last move about a million times, I could more or less lap the route to the last move, then I would fall. The beautiful thing about my attempts on this though wasn’t that I was learning new climbing techniques, but I was dealing with my redpoint stress better than ever before! Although I would be angry for a very brief period after falling from the final move, I would quickly calm down, and be psyched out of my mind ready for the next attempt. This is something I have been striving to achieve all my climbing career, a mindset where I am totally at peace after failing again and again from the final move on a route and be ready to give 110% to the next effort without feeling the effects of redpoint stress (something I have suffered from heavily all my climbing life). The funny thing with me which you will certainly notice if you are at the same crag, is that I take massive paddy’s when I fall of a hard redpoint… I am sorry if you are there for it, but it’s an unfortunate habit I have. I tried to control it but its something I can’t help and I feel that its almost become a part of my routine as a climber to do when I fail. The funny thing in the past was that I would be angry and stressed for at least an hour after failing and when the next attempt on the route came round, I would be dreading it even to the point of getting shakes and a feeling of illness. This was taking it way too far and I needed to sort this out! Now when I fall, I have at most 5 minutes of frustration with myself, then I come to my senses and become more psyched than ever to crush the route into submission next time round!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_0352.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=938)Me, Tom and Geek chatting about serious climbing training stuff : P I believe that we as climbers are always developing, from when we are children until old men and women. We can always learn more about ourselves and how we approach climbing and only by striving for perfection will we continue to improve. Right now, I have made huge leaps in my ability to deal with stress on redpoints, but I am positive I have so much more to learn and will not stop developing until the day I die (unless they have crags in the afterlife?). The next step for me is to continue to develop my confidence climbing in the 8b-8b+ grade range and possibly to move onto a harder project – 8c? I have already checked out the Rollito Sharma Extension (8c), which definitely seems like something within my limits right now… We will see : ) I’m just going to enjoy climbing out here in Spain for as long as I can and everyday push my limits!

Keep up the crushing guys!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Spain (UPDATE)
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2011, 07:45:23 am
Spain (UPDATE) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=950)
28 March 2011, 8:28 pm

Hey everyone!

So we are still out here having a great time. Things tapered off a bit for much of the crew after our last big sends, I think the projecting can take a lot out of you mentally as well as physically. Mcgeek did his 8b project “Blomu” and Ross did his 8a project “Celda da Castigo”. Ross also managed an awesome 2nd go on “Asaltin Bankis” 7b+ the other day and Mcgeek ticked about a hundred 7b+ – 7c+’s at another local crag (what he calls a mileage day).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Alex-on-8c.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=951)Alex Barrows on "Fabella" 8c Calum has been ticking a way the mileage, getting used to climbing on rock and has made steady progress. He is building himself up for a big onsight attempt tomorrow on “Blomu” part 1 (7c).

I had a good day today, ticking “Rollito Sharma” 8b+. This is my first at the grade so am pretty happy with that! I had a bit of an epic on it, I could practically lap the route until the crux dyno move, fall, then repeat lapping it until that move! Last go off the day today though was the money moment and I grabbed that pinch on the dyno and didn’t let go! Next on my tick list is “Santa Linya” (8b) and “Blomu” (8b).

Its also been pretty awesome hanging out with the English crew at the crag, Alex Barrows and Rob Lamey. Alex has been trying “Febella” (8c), making good links. Rob has been on “Blomu” (8b) and is looking very close! He fell off the last move today on his final burn, its almost in the bag!!!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/alex-on-8c-2.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=952)Alex Barrows on "Fabella" 8c Today, Geek, Ross and Calum decided to do something different, so whilst I was at the cave with Alex and Rob, they headed to do some multi-pitching at another crag. They did a 120m 6a+ which sounded like quite an epic, especially with Calum and Ross as part of the team : P

All in all, its been pretty good so far, I am just looking forward now to getting stuck into something new! Nat, Busby, Gary and Jonny are coming out to join us in the next couple of days as well, so looking forward to having the whole crew out : ) Think we will head to Terradets as well for a few days to get the others used to climbing on rock again. Geek and I have our eyes set on a couple of 8b’s there also, “Non Stop” for me and “Golpe de Gas” for Geek!

Wish us luck!!!

ROBZ OUT(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Project-Map-Santa.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=955)

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Spain (UPDATE) – Moving into Onsight mode!
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2011, 07:45:23 am
Spain (UPDATE) – Moving into Onsight mode! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=963)
2 April 2011, 7:56 pm

Hey guys!

Its been an awesome trip so far. The whole crew is out now, Jonny (Stocking) arrived a few days ago and the day after him came everyone else – Nat, Buz and Gary! Since they’ve arrived we’ve had a good few days out on the rock! The first day Jonny got stuck right into trying “Blomu” (8b) and quickly onsighted the (7c) start for a warm up. Gary got stuck right into trying “Rollito Sharma” (8b+) on the first day! He’s been having steady progress and has already made it to the crux in one go, so its looking hopeful for a quick ascent. Buz has been getting back into climbing steadily yet has already ticked a 7b+ and 7c. Nat has properly been thrown in the deep end, she has only had 10 days on rock in the past year so this is a bit of a shock but she has already climbed a 7b+!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Paris-Robbie-3.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=965)"Paris Hilton" (8b) - Entering the rest Getting into the way of climbing on rock is hard even between trips, but for someone who has barely climbed outdoors at all, its even harder! I watched Nat come close to onsighting 8a in Ceuse last summer after having a pretty hard first week there… it just takes time.

Yesterday we went to a new crag we hadn’t been to before called “Regina”. It was an absolutely stunning crag and reminded me massively of the Gran Boveda in Rodellar i.e. huge tufas and steep overhanging walls up to 40m high! I went for an 8a onsight and fell of just getting into the crux. I felt it was a very stiff route to onsight as the sequences through the crux where very hard to read and decipher under pressure. Later on in the day after I had figured out the sequence I went for another go and fell off snapping one of the holds just before the crux : (  Not a crucial hold but annoying since I was feeling strong for the 2nd go : P  I then witnessed both Jonny and Neil flash the route as I shouted beta to them from the ground – Nice one guys!

We also went back to Santa Ana to try a techy 8b called “Paris Hilton”. I had climbed well on it a few days previously having a really good onsight burn in which i made it all the way up into the final part of the climb just at the crux of the route. That day we had both good weather and skin conditions and we were psyched for the send. Both me and Neil were close to redpointing it and Ross and Mark were wanting to work it. On the second try of the day I sent it making it my third 8b of the trip! Neil made one really good redpoint attempt but headed away onto different routes after wrecking his skin on the crimpy crux. Mark and Ross made some very impressive links and are psyched to go back for more! After sending the route, I checked out the vert 8b+ next door and apart from being totally shut down by the hideous finger crack finish, I actually did really well and got nearly every sequence first go!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Ross-Paris.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=966)Ross Kirkland on "Paris Hilton" (8b) Anyway, we are heading off tomorrow to check out a new crag, Tres Ponts! There are meant to be countless 7c+’s, 8a’s and 8a+’s ripe for the onsight there so should be a good wee trip. Lynne has just been telling me about a amazing 8a called “El Segre” so it looks like that is on the tick list for tomorrow! I am definitely going to have to turn my onsight head back on for the next week and a bit as all I’ve been doing so far is projecting.

Anyway, psyched up for tomorrow and the 6am start : ( Will update again in the next few days!

PEACE

ROBZ OUT

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Crux-Paris.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=967)@ the last move of "Paris Hilton" (8b) - Also the CRUX!!!

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Spain (Update) – Siurana Projects and Coaching Begin!
Post by: comPiler on April 09, 2011, 01:00:10 pm
Spain (Update) – Siurana Projects and Coaching Begin! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=975)
9 April 2011, 9:22 am

Hey guys!

So we’ve all moved to Siurana after our little trip to Tres Ponts. We had a pretty good time there, I wasn’t as keen for the place as everyonelse but it was certainly an awesome crag with a totally different style of climbing than any I have experienced before. The style feels a bit like climbing on glued on plates, everything sticks out the way and its a bit like climbing at an indoor wall, but I find the holds very sharp and unpleasant to hold onto for long periods of time.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Jonny-S-8a+.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=978)Jonny Stocking on an 8a+ @ Tres Ponts I found the warm up routes below 7b absolutely horrible, very sharp and crimp with no feet… quite unpleasant for warming up on, you may as well jump on any one of the 50m 8a’s or 8a+’s to warm up on : P at least they have big jugs to hold onto! The first thing I tried was a spicy 8a+ on the right side of the main sector, it was very bouldery and basically all came down to a section no more than a few metres long which both me and Jonny (Stocking) figured out to be about V7ish? To get there you climb a nice juggy section with one small crux which would weigh in at abut f7c probably? We were kind of close to doing it but a sharp crimp half-way through the crux was causing me a lot of pain so I opted out after my 2nd go failed. Jonny went for a 3rd go but fell off just at the end of the crux and sacked it for the day.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Robbie-8a+.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=977)Me on an 8a+ @ Tres Ponts I then watched an awesome performance by young Kirkland (Ross) as he slapped his way up a 55m long 8a called “El Segre”! Complying to standard Kirkland performance, he looked nearly off on every single move from the first 10m right up until the final 5m of crack laybacking before the chains! Despite the flailing, he crushed the route on the flash to give him his second 8a flash of all time and his third 8a in total! Mcgeek unfortunately duffed the crux of “El Segre” up on the onsight and instead got a very cool second go without even trying the final 45m of route. I then got the third repeat of the day by flashing it also. A bit of an epic came about after I lowered and was told that no one wanted to do the route anymore and so I had to slog back up the route again and get the draws out… : ( I the dark I retrieved the draws and we went back home.

After a day of rest in Santa Linya, me, Neil, Mark and Nat headed to Siurana. Here we have been for the past few days. On the first day we checked out an easier crag for the kids we are coaching later on in the week and the past couple of days we’ve been getting in a bit of personal climbing. I tried an 8b called “Ramadan” on the second day, I managed to flash the first cruxy bit but then fell at the second. After dogging to the top, I quickly sussed all the moves and after an hour of rest went for a second go… I fell right at the last move of the crux : ( A bit gutted, but psyched I had done so well on my first 8b at Siurana! I came back and on my first shot, dispatched it without too much effort. I was well psyched about this route, its been on my ticklist for a while and I was pretty happy to find it so easy. Feeling how comfortable “Ramadan” (8b) and “Paris Hilton” (8b) went for me, it makes me confident that potentially onsighting 8b isn’t that far off…

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Robbie-Ramadan.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=981)Me sending "Ramadan" (8b) in Siurana After I did “Ramadan”, Mark got stuck into trying a 7c+ next to it called “L’escamarla” and had a couple of shots working out the moves. He is psyched to get back on it overt he next few days to go for the redpoint! Me and Nat then headed off to L’olla sector further down the valley and tried the famous 7c+ “Pota d’elefant”. I tried to onsight it putting clips in, and my god I got a fright! I was expecting it to be tough but not that tough! I managed to make it to the last clip just before a mega bulge, but had no idea what I was doing, there was no chalk on any holds and the bulge was totally blind! I pumped out hanging of a mega jug with no footholds, then after hanging off the rope for a minute, discovered a little crimp just over the bulge, totally blind for anyone who hasn’t been told its there already : P Nat tried out the moves and really enjoyed the climbing, so I think she may be back for this later in the trip?

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Alex-on-6a+.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=984)Alex Bosi crushing a techy 6a+ in Siurana in the boiling sun! So anyway, all the kids for the MCofS coaching trip have arrived now and we are gearing up for a good week of climbing. Yesterday we headed out with the Bosi’s for an extra day of climbing since they had arrived early. William and Alex got stuck into some 4′s, 5′s and a spicy 6a+ whilst Cameron played at the second bolt of a tricky 5. After climbing with the kids, me, Nat, Neil and Mark all headed off climbing again. Mark went back on “L’escamarla” (7c+) and worked the route some more whilst me and Nat headed back to L’olla sector. I was keen to check out the famous 8b “Migranya”! This is another route thats been on my ticklist for a good few years now. I had one dogging session working out all the moves on it and luckily none of them felt too hard. I did nearly all of the moves on my first go, the crux took a few hangs to work out the correct sequence and I’m still positive that I am not doing it right, but thats all part of the process of redpointing. It looks like it will take a bit more effort than “Paris Hilton” (8b) and “Ramadan” (8b) but seems like a similar level and style to “Gaia” (8b) that I did in Kalymnos, maybe a little bit easier? PSYCHED!!!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/William-triumphant.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=985)William Bosi triumphant after sending his first 6a+ in Siurana! Anyway, coaching starts today so no major climbing for me for  the next few days, I think some rest is deserved after 4 weeks of intense climbing anyway : P Stay tuned for news and pics on the coaching week everybody!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Spanish MCofS Coaching Week and some more 8b’s!
Post by: comPiler on April 29, 2011, 05:18:50 am
Spanish MCofS Coaching Week and some more 8b’s! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=994)
18 April 2011, 5:06 pm

Hey Guys

Its been a hard past two weeks coaching, but now its over. We’ve been coaching since the 8th of April and only finished on the 16th, so that’s 9 days of hard work! There were around 15 kids on the coaching holiday of varying ages and levels. Kids from as young as 8 to 16 and climbing from F5 to F8a!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Jonny-S-8a.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=995)Jonny Stocking climbing a bouldery 8a! The coaches involved during the holiday were myself (Robbie Phillips), Neil Mcgeachy, Gary Vincent and Mark Mcgowan. Along to help out was Natalie Berry, Ross Kirkland and Calum Forsyth.

The coaching involved setting up top-ropes for the less experienced kids, putting clips in for leading, working out suitable routes for them to try, splitting the kids into appropriate groups and generally making sure every kid had the best experience they could possibly have.

For the majority of the week, I was working with young Buster Martin (15 years old from London). Buster is one of the most psyched up young climbers I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. I first met him a few years ago at a Ratho EYS Selection competition and even back then, he showed noticeable signs that he was going to be good. Buster arrived at the campsite the day before coaching was to take place, the week before he had successfully secured a place on the Junior British Climbing Team at the Team Selection Day so was definitely on form to be climbing well.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Rachel-7b+.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=996)Rachel Carr about to take the biggest whipper of her life! The first day that Buster and me climbed together he managed to on-sight a techy F7a and climb his first F7b+ second go (“Mandragora”)! Buster’s goal for the trip was to climb 8a and onsight 7b+, so on the first day it was apparent that this was certainly not too much for him to handle. On the second day he bagged another 7b+ called “Bistec de Biceps” second go, missing the on-sight only by one move! At the end of the second day, I sent Buster up a classic 7c+ called “L’escamarla”. I thought this would be the perfect route for him to try, not only because it was a good step towards climbing 8a, but also because it had a link up to the 8b “Ramadan” next door to it which got 8a, meaning that if he did the 7c+, it wouldn’t be too much more work to do the link up into “Ramadan” giving him his first 8a!

After having a rest day, Buster got back on the 7c+ and made some impressive links but was exhausted after the days work, so we decided to make the next day a half-day and just get Buster to head out in the evening for a redpoint attempt on the 7c+. That next day, our tactics paid of well and Buster secured his first 7c+! Gary took over Busters sessions from that day onwards and after having another half-day the next day, Buster even managed to nab the link up into “Ramadan” for his first 8a! Nice one dude! As well as all this, he even on-sighted his first 7b+!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Buster-8a.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=997)Buster trying Jonny's bouldery 8a (bad choice!) On the last few days of the trip, I was involved with the younger kids and got to work closely with young Eilidh Payne, Rhiannon Freireich and Megan Saunders. I coach Eilidh and Megan a bit back home but have only ever worked with Rhiannon once during BRYCS sessions (Jonny Stocking coaches Rhiannon). All their goals for the trip were very similar:

The day I worked with Rhiannon and Megan we went to a really nice little sector behind the village of Siurana called “Grau dels Masets”. There are loads of F5’s and F6’s as well as a few F7’s for the kids to get stuck into here so it made sense to go as a whole group. Rhiannon managed to tick her first 6b on-sight on lead and Megan tried her first outdoor 7a. She made an impressive on-sight attempt on it and then rested for the remainder of the day with a plan to return on the next day for a red-point attempt!

On the next day, Rhiannon cleaned her first 7a on top-rope and Megan ticked the 7a on lead! On the same day, me, Rachel, Nat, Eleanor and Eilidh headed to the valley to try some different styles of routes before Eilidh left the next day. We warmed up at one of my favourite sectors, “Espero Primavera”. There is a good selection of routes of all grades here, from F5 to F8b and there is the best F6a, F6a+, F6b and F7b+ in Siurana at this one crag! To warm up, Eilidh, Rachel and Eleanor did the F6a and F6b (Rachel and Eleanor did the F6a+ as well). I had set up a F7a round the corner for Eilidh to try later on in the day after she was fully warmed up. The route is called “Ay Mamita”, it is 35m long and super physical the whole way! Eilidh is a bit scared of long routes, but I felt that doing this on top-rope would be a massive achievement for her and certainly a nice finishing touch to her trip to Spain. When it came to do the route, she simply walked up it, struggling a bit at the reachy crux, but managed to power her way through and topped out with not a lot of bother. This was Eilidh’s first 7a flash!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Rachel-crimp.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=998)Rachel showing us how to crimp on a tricky 7b+ "Mandragora" What a good trip! Everyone achieved their goals and everyone had a great time. I have a funny feeling that this won’t be the last coaching trip out here for the crew as it was such a great success… Looking forward to the next one : )

On a personal note, I have managed to nab a few last minute ascents after the days coaching. I did the mega classic “Zona 0” on my second try and yesterday I did the power endurance test piece “Migranya” on my 6th try. Both these routes are 8b so I am pretty chuffed with myself. Yesterday I also tried “Dogma” 8b or 8b+ (depending on who you talk to) and it looks like this should go quickly as well. Dogma has the same start to “Kallea Borokka” the super classic 8b+, so I think I will also use that as a starting point to doing this mega route at the same time. After I did “Migranya”, I took a look at the variation “Migranya Profunda” 8b+ and that didn’t seem to bad either from what I glimpsed of it. If I tick of “Dogma” and “Kallea Borokka” quick enough, maybe I will test myself on the “Migranya Profunda” (reckoned to be hard 8b+!).

Psyched!!!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Coming to an end…
Post by: comPiler on April 30, 2011, 01:00:49 am
Coming to an end… (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1004)
29 April 2011, 9:10 pm

Hey Guys

So the trip is coming to an end… We have little less than a week until we return to the UK, but its not so bad really, we will be getting back for the UK sport climbing season which means plenty of fun on the yorkshire limestone clipping bolts and sunny days on the county sandstone falling onto bouldering mats. When I get back, I am being sent a new bouldering mat from Edelrid, “The Crux (http://www.edelrid.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=533&Itemid=689&lang=en)” crashpad!!! So it will be good to get out and test this mega beast in action : )

The trip to Spain has certainly been successful in the way of hard ticks. Everyone on the trip has made some significant ascents so far and there is still time left for some more. I think this has been my most successful redpointing trip for no other reason than simply the number of hard routes I’ve managed to tick so far. I have completed my objectives for Spain and more which has certainly filled me full of confidence for the next years trips and objectives, I don’t think 8c is far off : ) The issue with me is that I don’t want to just tick an 8c, I want to get to a significant level for which I can tick one fairly quickly. This is a very big objective as there are very few climbers in Britain that operate at this level, in fact I can only think of two Scottish climbers who are there currently and thats Dave Macleod and Alan Cassidy. Two climbers who have certainly inspired me over the years to push myself, so it would be amazing to be able to reach a similar standard.

Heres a list of the top sends of all the climbers in our party:

Ross Kirkland

Celda De Castigo, 8a, Redpoint

El Segre, 8a, Flash

Outback, 7c+, Redpoint

Papagora, 7c, Flash

Mandragora, 7b+, Onsight

Neil Mcgeachy

Celda De Castigo, 8a, Flash

Pren Nota, 8a, Onsight

Blomu, 8b, Redpoint

Mark Mcowan

Esfinx, 7c, Flash

L’escamarla, 7c+, Redpoint

Calum Forsyth

Asaltin bankis, 7b+, Redpoint

Papagora, 7c, Redpoint

Natalie Berry

Papagora, 7b+, Onsight

Hot Knife, 7c, 2nd Go

Outback, 7c+, Redpoint

L’escamarla, 7c+, Redpoint

Robbie Phillips

Celda De Castigo, 8a, Onsight

El Segre, 8a, Flash

Preventiva, 8b, Redpoint

Paris Hilton, 8b, Redpoint

Zona 0, 8b, Redpoint

Ramadan, 8b, Redpoint

Migranya, 8b, Redpoint

A Flash D’enemigo, 8b, Redpoint

Dogma, 8b/+, Redpoint

Rollito Sharma, 8b+, Redpoint

Lots of good ticks in there and potentially more to come : ) Mcgeek is close to ticking his current project “Dogma” (8b/+) and Calum is close to ticking his project “Papagora” (7b+). Natalie had an awesome 2nd go attempt at “Pren Nota” (8a) yesterday so she will try and work out the moves today and go for a quick redpoint of that. Mark also had a good burn on “Pren Nota” yesterday so I think he is planning on redpointing this as his first spanish 8a. Ross fell on the final crux of his project, “Zona 0″, we watched him throw his way up this mega classic yesterday so we are looking forward to the final attempt that will see him send it. And finally, I tried “Kallea Borroka” yesterday and thought it felt very do-able with a wee bit work, so i am going to try and tick this as well, which would round of the trip off very nicely indeed : )

Looking forward to getting home, but also for getting back out again… I think we are planning something in the Winter, possibly Siurana/Margalef for December-January when the conditions will be perfect… 8c time?

Keep Crushing

Robz

UPDATE

After writing this post, we went climbing and I did “Kallea Borroka” on my 4th go : ) I then went on to almost send another 8b called “Pati Pa Mi” which would have been amazing. Almost two 8b and harder in a day… but not quite : P Natalie managed to tick another 7c+ called “L’escamarla” and Calum finnaly nabbed his project, “Papagora” as well! Tomorrow is our last day in Siurana before we head back up to Santa Linya to see our friends, Tom and Lynne. Nat is going to try and tick an 8a tomorrow and I will use what little is left of my finger tips to climb a vertical filth 8b : P

PEACE

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: What Have I Learned?
Post by: comPiler on May 05, 2011, 01:00:11 pm
What Have I Learned? (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1023)
5 May 2011, 10:36 am

As I have said countless times before, every-time I go on a trip, I learn something new about myself that I didn’t know before, something that will help me excel in this crazy sport we call rock climbing! Early on in my career it was noticeable that I was certainly a more developed endurance athlete than strength or power, but I neglected training these areas and suffered because of this. It wasn’t until going out on trips that I learned what was needed to push me that extra bit further.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Edelrid-robbie.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1024)Getting gear sorted for the climb! Kalymnos 2010 taught me a harsh lesson, you can be as fit as you want, but when it comes to the hard moves, sometimes you just need to be able to pull hard! This lesson goes both ways though, as I remember on my second trip to Ceuse, it wasn’t just me getting schooled on the harsh technical faces but also my climbing partner Andy (sorry for bringing you into this mate). Andy having coming from a bouldering background had to deal with the reality of not having endurance on the 30+m long pitches common at this popular French sport climbing crag. This taught him that it wasn’t only about being able to pull off the hardest moves, but also being able to recover on the easier or more sustained ground.

Ceuse 2007, 2008 and 2010 taught me even more about climbing than ever before. They taught me that simply coming to the crag from pulling on plastic for a whole season wasn’t going to provide the results that I so desperately was after! It took me 3 years of trips to one crag to realize this, that was a tough lesson.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Nat-lesca.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1025)Nat chilling at the rest on "L'escamarla-Ramadan Link" (8a) I have been out in Spain for 8 weeks now, I am returning today and only in the past 2 weeks have I felt my climbing really start to take off. There is definitely something more to getting out on rock as much as you can, something it teaches you that the gym simply can’t. I have watched countless numbers of strong gym climbers thrash there way at the rock for endless weeks getting no where and simply giving up in the end. This is not the way forward! You have to really want to learn from the experiences the rock is giving you. If you are failing, you are failing for a reason, not always because you are too weak:

“Need to do more beastmaker!”

Not always because you are unfit:

“Need to do more laps!”

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Happy-nat.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1028)Nat happy from a successful climb : P I think generally its because you haven’t spent enough time learning what the rock is teaching you i.e. how to move your body, how to place your feet, how to pace yourself, how to use resting to your advantage… In truth, you will never stop learning and this is the amazing thing with climbing, because there are always new challenges that await us! The day when you stop challenging yourself with new and interesting climbs, and settle for what looks like you will tick the quickest, get the hardest grade or feel most like what you are used to is the day you stop improving! There is a reason why the best climbers in the world are also the ones who have done the most mileage on rock… it doesn’t take a brain surgeon to understand. It’s because they have learned the most from what the rock has to offer! Watch the videos of Adam Ondra climbing, its an amazing display of sheer athleticism, mental determination and tactical genius! He doesn’t just climb the route… he destroys it!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/robbie-ramadan-8b1.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1026)Me on "Ramadan" (8b) On this last trip to Spain, I have certainly ticked the most hard routes than ever before. On this trip, more than any before, I was on a mission to set a standard for myself. As I have said in previous posts, climbing is largely about confidence and building it up over time. When I went on my first Spanish climbing trip, I ticked my first 8a, that gave me the confidence to go back home and tick “Raindogs” (one of the hardest 8a’s in the country!). On this trip I have ticked 7 x 8b’s and 3 x 8b+’s as well as numerous 8a’s (onsight and flash). This has set my confidence at a good level for the next year which will allow me to build upon it and realize the next peak at which I am aiming to reach… which is of course 8c!

I have not really been slowed down by anything on this trip, I’ve just been moving from one project to the next and they all seemed to drop like flies one after another. But I don’t want to simply stop and say, “well that was a great trip and now I can have a rest”… Far from it! Now more than ever I need to be on my guard for what weaknesses still lie in my climbing and what skills I need to hone! And as long as I keep on doing this, I will continue to progress and see my dreams of climbing harder routes realized.

I think for me, my biggest weakness still lies in my strength. I am still a weak punter : P But I suppose I had only been focusing on the strength training for 3 months after Kalymnos and look at the gains I have made since then! More or less, this Spain trip has been of similar length as Kalymnos 2010 and the routes I have climbed have been far harder and more significant than then, which shows something substantial must have changed in my climbing! I reckon for this year I am going to continue to focus heavily on my strength and power issues with a keen focus on training my crimp strength and pocket strength (mono’s and front two). The reason for this is that I fancy a long trip back to Siurana in December/January and want to mix this with Margalef. If I can hone my pocket pulling skills, perhaps I can tick of some harder routes there such as “Darwin Dixit” (8b+) and possibly “Aitzol” (8c) if I am lucky?

I am also going to focus on the 15-25 move power endurance bracket that I so often neglect in my training. After climbing the popular 8a “Anabolica” in Siurana on our last day, I realized just how important sustained climbing on hard moves is if I want to continue pushing my level higher. “Migranya” (8b) in Siurana climbed quite easily for me and this was a similar style of climb, but If I want to continue to push the envelope with this style, I think much higher levels will be demanded!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/robbie-ramadan-8b.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1027)Me on "Ramadan" (8b) I want to continue to maintain my climbing level outdoors and not let my technical development slip, so I a going to focus more on getting outside climbing in the UK between trips. Yorkshire, Wales and the South West offer lots of challenges for the sport climber working in the 8’s and some of the crags around Scotland have definitely peaked my interest. I plan on spending most of my time in Yorkshire climbing at Malham and Kilnsey, I have made a wee tick list for myself with routes such as these included:

There is a lot there, but that means plenty of challenge and lots of learning to be had from it : ) I can’t wait! Bring on the UK Limestone!!!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: BUSY LIFE
Post by: comPiler on June 11, 2011, 01:00:58 am
BUSY LIFE (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1041)
10 June 2011, 7:47 pm

Hey Guys!

I have to apologise for I have not blogged in a wee while. The reason for this is a number of things:

1) Being Busy

2) Being Very Busy

3) I can’t think of anythingelse…

Well, since Spain I have been slammed back into reality with endless work writing, coaching, route setting and of course, lots of climbing : ) I haven’t managed to get out quite as much as I’d hoped when I got back from Spain, in fact, I haven’t got out at all! As soon as I got back from Spain, I was straight down to Sheffield only a day later with little time to prepare for the full on 3 day route setting course I was doing. After that, I was back up to Edinburgh for probably one of the most intense working weeks of my life! For those of you who don’t know, the European Youth Cup was held at EICA: Ratho earlier last month and I was one of the few guys chosen to route set for this world class climbing event. It was an honor and a privilege to set for such an event and it certainly was an experience of a lifetime, but I am hoping to get more chances for this again in the future. I was working with three of my close friends from Edinburgh, Neil Mcgeachy, Neill Busby and Gary Vincent as well as visiting fenchman and all-round international superstar WAD, Paul Dewilde. Paul was acting a chief routesetter for the competition, but he didn’t do much other than sit and watch us do all the hard work whilst eating croissants : P Only Joking! We all had a crazy week, working 7 days on the trot with no shifts shorter than 12 hours and up to a maximum shift of 21 hours long with a 2 hour break between that and the following days 15 hour shift! It was very obvious that during the evening of the final nights setting, we were all losing our minds slightly… I was going bi-polar – one minute i’d be in hysterics wondering what the hell we where doing setting at 4 in the morning and the next I was powering up an 8b+ psyched out of my mind! Geek and Buz where giggling to themselves high up on the wall in the cherry picker as if high on hold dust and Gary was hallucinating, claiming to be seeing twin holds where there weren’t any and footholds in the wrong places and at the wrong angle – “5 degrees anti-clockwise and move it two cm closer to the arete!” – things like this where heard about every 5 minutes or so : P  But we all had a great time and the competition was a massive success! My final route for the boys was very successful, separating everyone perfectly and even acted brilliantly as a crowd pleaser as the final competitor (Max Rudiger of Austria) topped the route in awesome style to take home a 1st place in the Junior Boys Category.

Since the competition, I have been doing quite a bit of coaching with various climbers both adults and children. I have had one session with two young kids from the competition team at Ratho, Sam and Emma. Both of these little guys are awesome climbers and the sessions I had with them where very successful. For Emma, it was her first session with me, so the main things I wanted to go over her was simply to practice her warm up for competitions and to spot any little technical faults in her performance. When working with the kids in the club, sometimes it is difficult to focus on one kid in particular since you have to spread yourself about all the children giving them all equal attention, so 1:1′s every now and again are really helpful for both the children and myself. Emma is one of the most talented girls I have seen coming up through the club, she is very good at climbing naturally, she has a very light build, strong fingers, has an amazing static lock and naturally understands how her body works on the wall. Sometimes she gets body position wrong and it would be good for her to focus a bit more on being dynamic, but these are all things we are looking at building on in the future.

This last week I have been route setting a lot at Ratho and have managed to set an unprecedented number of routes on both the main wall and comp walls between 5+ and 7c. My main focus during the weeks route setting was to create some truly sustained and interesting climbs without any stopper moves for the grade and in particular, without rests : )  I succeeded on the no rests part, however, there where a few noticeably cruxy parts of some routes and so I failed on that part. Its not a big deal though, the 7a+ I set became 7b with the crux bumping it up a notch, the 7b I set became 7b+ and the 7b+ became 7c. Sometimes it happens, perhaps if there was more rest the cruxes wouldn’t feel as bad but I was eager to challenge the regulars with something that tested their climbing efficiency on the wall as well as route reading and problem solving. The 6b I set on the old comp wall has since become the most popular route at Ratho, racking up a healthy queue behind it almost every night and its really great to see that the comp walls are busy as opposed to empty.

Climbing recently has been going alright as well, I have been maintaining my level well with the help of the bestmaker and our fine routes from the european cup. I have done 5 out of 7 of the remaining routes from the comp and only having had two route sessions on them, so I am pretty chuffed with that. That includes:

I almost did the other 8b final route the other day as well after having a very good first go burn, getting really high on it until I got sapped trying to pull on a big sloper in the roof!

So we don’t have long until Ceuse really, only 1 week left! I don’t think I am the fittest I have ever been, but I sure am the strongest, so hopefully my strength levels and base level endurance will hold me in good stead whilst in Ceuse for some good ticks : ) Out there I am hoping to do more 8b’s and 8b+’s and potentially try an 8c if I get the urge : P but there is no rush, its all good fun and I like to climb lots of routes and gain the experience and confidence before pushing on to the next level.

After Ceuse, Nat and I are doing our Yorkshire climbing trips for climbers of any ability to come and receive professional coaching whilst climbing at some of the very best British Sport Crags and as well as that, I will soon after be heading to Kalymnos in Greec for yet more coaching and a short holiday afterwards in an attempt to tick the famous 8c, “Jaws”!

Psyched!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: UPDATED SITE!
Post by: comPiler on June 18, 2011, 01:00:13 am
UPDATED SITE! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1048)
17 June 2011, 11:41 pm

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/LULU-GLEN-CLOVA.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1055)Lulu enjoying the sun at Glen Clova late last week : ) Hey guys!

Welcome to the new updated site! We now have a lot more fun features on the site including Natalie’s own blog, the training blog, a holidays page, a training program page, a terminology page and the updated articles and links section.   Natalie’s blog is for her own use. It will function as her personal blog in which she will chat about her life in climbing, training, coaching and university work and how she balances it all (not an easy task).   I have also brought in the training blog. I was inspired by Dave Macs blog for this one. I was really wanting to separate the blogs specific to my everyday life and the training blogs for the keen climbers and it was becoming difficult doing this solely by using the tagging. So now, if you want to read about training and new ways in which to improve your climbing, then all you have to do is go onto the training blog now instead of having to search through the maze of historic posts on my main blog.

The holidays page is built specifically to advertise any up and coming coaching trips we are running which will include all details of the trips from prices of the courses to details on the destination and who the course is aimed at.

The new training program page has been built to show you guys how I build training programs to suit every climber and will even include some examples of training programs i have built in the past for aspiring climbers who have since reached dizzying heights on the ladder to climbing success through following them.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Robbie-Glen-Clova.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1056)Me seconding the first pitch of another classic E1 at Glen Clova - Lulu lead : P The links and articles page is to give every user of the site easy access to associated websites, training sites and friends pages. As well as this, I am going to provide pdf’s and links to all the articles I write for various websites and magazines so you can access the pool of training data easier in the future.   Finally, the new terminology section was built because I know how difficult it can be for many climbers to understand some of the weird words used to describe things in climbing.

Hopefully this should help and i will update this area as much as i can and whenever I can think of new terminology that needs explaining : )  So this is the new site guys and I hope you enjoy using it. Since I started the site, the number of hits has gone up every month almost exponentially and it was obvious that it needed an update, so here it is.   Nat and I are off to Ceuse, France on Saturday and will keep you all updated on our adventures through the blog as much as we can. Right now I am off to EICA: Ratho for some boulder setting as we have a collection of brand spanking new Lapis and Bleaustone volumes to stick on the wall : )

WOOHOO!!!

Stay Psyched Guys  Robz

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: First 2 days in Ceuse!
Post by: comPiler on June 21, 2011, 01:00:17 pm
First 2 days in Ceuse! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1063)
21 June 2011, 9:31 am

Day 0

Currently I am in the plane heading to sunny Lyon (hopefully sunny that is). I am travelling with Natalie and Eleanor Hopkins plus her mum and dad. I went with them last year as well and it was a great trip, so here’s hoping this will become a tradition. Nat and I had a busy day yesterday packing and getting things sorted for our trip, we are away for 5 weeks in total so we are making sure we have all the necessaries:

Robbie

1. Climb On

2. Anti-Hydral

3. iPod (for the Ceuse walk in)

Natalie

1. Hairbrush

2. Sun glasses

3. Sandals

And of course everythingelse we probably don’t need – stressing out at the last minute as to why nats bag was 4kg over I discovered she had packed two foldaway chairs… Very necessary indeed.

As I said before, I was last in Ceuse only a year ago, but since then my personal climbing has improved a lot so I am hoping to tick some of the harder routes I didn’t quite manage last time. Last year we were only in ceuse for 10 days, not nearly enough time to acclimatise to the weather, walk in and style of climbing. Previous trips have been as long as 5 weeks but again, my personal level was not as high and i was content with ticking most of the routes in the 7c-8a grade bracket. This year I am hoping to up the ante and tick more of the 8a+-8b+ routes, but I know ceuse style is tricky and I have been shut down there a lot, so I am just psyched to go there, have fun and learn more on what I need to do to keep on improving. That’s what it’s all about for me, personal improvement and loving every minute of it!!!

Psyched for some spectacular limestone sport action tomorrow!

Day 1

So… turns out I forgot my sleeping bag and camping mat :’( Last night was very cold, so tomorrow we will go to Decathlon to get some new camping gear (woops).

We headed up to the crag early this morning as the sector we wanted to go to (Cascade) gets into the sun fairly early. Nat and Eleanor warmed up on a 6b, but it didn’t seem to make a difference as it was soooooo cold! The difference in temperature between the shade and the sun is phenomnal! I warmed up on an amazing 7b called “Super Mickey” then went to try the route I have been waiting to try for the past 4 years… “Violent Illusion” (8b). My first go was spend working the sequence out – some have said that the bottom section is graded at around V10 but I reckon its probably more V8+/9. I can’t tell really as I haven’t bouldered at all on limestone and have only done a few V9′s and one V10, but it actually went really quickly and on my second try, I did the boulder from the ground only for my hand to slip off the handhold as I was on the easier ground (7bish – agghhhhhhhh!!!!). That was almost my first “8b in a day” and the worst of it was, as my hand slipped of I split the top of my finger tip :’( Oh well… It was a good attempt and I will be back once my finger has healed. Nat then went for “Super Mickey” 7b which I had left the clips in from my warm up and did it first go… very easily…

Once the sun had shown up, we headed around the crag to get the shade. I was keen to do something a bit easier and possibly work out the moves on it so I could go for a send the next day. A friend of mine from Canada was trying an 8a called “Petit Tom”. He was trying the left-hand variant which is given 7c+, the direct is a lot harder by including a boulder problem start at around V6ish? After that you link back in with the variant and continue up a very sustained head wall at around 7c/+. I almost did the boulder problem on my first go but slipped at the 3rd clip. I then just opted for figuring out the sequence so I could go for an attempt tomorrow.

Day 2

Today we headed of to Gap early to grab some supplies before heading up to the crag in the afternoon for a session on “Petit Tom”. The conditions at the crag where a lot worse today, it was very hot and slimy, not great for sending hard crimpy routes : ( I warmed up with my friend Olly (who I was in Kalymnos with), he was trying “Carte Blanche” (8a) and getting very close to it, whilst I warmed up on the 7b right next to it called “Lapinerie”. The 7b has an outrageous dyno move right at the end, I was a little apprehensive of this as it was just my warm up, however, when I reached the move I felt really strong and managed to just static it entirely, an improvement in strength levels from last year!

After doing the 7b, I headed back to the sector called “Berlin” to try my 8a “Petit Tom”. On my first go I did the boulder problem but my foot popped off just as I was getting the jug. I decided to familiarise myself with the moves and just bolt to bolted it to the top. Nat was eager for a go as well, but she was still warming up with Eleanor on some 6c’s. After a little break, I went for another go and despite messing up the boulder massively, I managed to get to the top without falling : P Another 8a to the ticklist and my first hard route of the trip… YEAH!!! It would have been awesome to tick an 8b on the first day, but alas, sometimes its good to get pushed off in the face of victory so you can learn and return another day.

Now that I have figured out how the internet works here in Ceuse, the blog updates will be a bit more regular…

Hope everyone is enjoying the summer!

ROBZ OUT + PSYCHED!!!

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Violent Illusion
Post by: comPiler on June 24, 2011, 07:00:07 pm
Violent Illusion (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1071)
24 June 2011, 12:46 pm

Yesterday was a good day for Team GB! In the morning, Nat and I made the walk up the hill early at around 9:00 in the morning. It was very cloudy and looking like it was going to start raining any second. I was fed up of rain after two forced rest days and just wanted to go climbing regardless. We headed up to Cascade sector to see if “Violent Illusion” (8b) was dry, I had tried this the other day and had almost done it second go before my finger tip split open. The route takes the steepest line at the sector up a seemingly blank blue wall at around 45 degrees overhung and is probably one of the coolest looking lines in Ceuse. Checking on 8a.nu this morning I saw a number of people reckoning that the start boulder problem weighs in at around V9/10 and then into somewhere between 7a+ and 7b+ to top out. My opinion on this is slightly warped as I haven’t really done a lot of outdoor bouldering and no limestone bouldering whatsoever. My thoughts on the boulder are:

1) Its bloody sharp!

2) The holds are very small!

3) I’ve definitely done harder boulder problems outdoors

So compared to other problems that where of similar difficulty and style, I would say that it probably does way around the V8/9 mark for me and definitely in the way that I’ve done it, but I have seen other sequences that looked harder and way more physical than mine, so it is possible that if you mucked up the sequence a bit then the problem probably would be a lot harder.

When we arrived at the crag, the route was totally dry, however, above it was an ominous wet streak that seemed to creep down a few more inches every 10 minutes or so. After warming up on a 7b called “Keket Blues”, I went straight for it and managed to get the boulder on my first go without any difficulties. I then proceeded to climb the remainder of the route having no major problems with any of it until the very last clip (about 3m from the chain). In any other situation, this last section would probably way in at around f6b on its own, however, the wet streak which had previously occupied the section above the chain had creeped its way down onto my route and was now standing right between me and the chain. The holds are all slopey crimps and jugs here, perfectly easy when it was dry, but horribly slippy when wet. I attempted to climb the wet streak three times, each time being forced to down-climb back to my resting jug below the wet streak. After 5 minutes of scoping from my base, I spotted several dry “non-holds” outside of the wet streak that looked like a potential sequence to take me to the chains. Opting for this new sequence, I pressed on, first locking to a tiny razor blade crimp situated right next to a bomber sloping jug which happened to be sopping wet, then I built my feet up onto some small pockets (thankfully dry) and locked again into a tiny two finger pocket. As i locked of for it, my fingers scraped the wet streak and I had to brush my hands of on my jeans before reaching it making the hold feel a little more spoogie than I would have liked. Crimping up on the pocket I felt it slipping, I quickly raised my left leg onto a small foot smear and hastily pressed into the soaking wet gaston crimp just under the chains. I stood up into the gaston and took the jug undercut below the chains with my right hand, finally clipping the chain much to my relief!

Thank god I didn’t fall of that, I don’t know if I would have been strong enough mentally to get back on it after that : P

Anyway, after doing “Violent Illusion”, I belayed Nat on a 7c called “Hyper Mickey” which she managed to onsight. She had done the second half of the route before but to be honest, it doesn’t really add much compared to the bottom section which is about a V5/6 boulder problem. Nat will talk more about her experiences with that in her blog later on.

We also made a new friend at the crag today, a 17 year old boy from Australia called Matt. Matt doesn’t really climb indoors at all, this came as a wee bit of a shock to me since most young climbers nowadays get into climbing through walls then progress into outdoors, however, with Matt it was the opposite. Matt had a really good attempt at onsighting the classic 7b of the crag “Super Mickey”, then we all headed around the corner to the other crags.

The third big tick for Team GB today was Alex Barrows amazing tick of “The Black Bean” 8b+ at Biographie sector. This is definitely on my tick list, its a 65m long extension to the classic 8a “Les Colonettes” and is one of only 3 or four routes that go to the top of Biographie Sector. Alex spent four days working the route on a 100m long rope although apparently its OK to climb on an 80m rope, you just have to re-thread a lot more! Our adopted Team GB member, Julliet from Canada, also did “Les Colonettes” (8a) on his second try. Ollie Wheeldon (my mate from the South West) is still close to ticking “Carte Blanche” (8a) falling off very close to the top yesterday.

I finally tried “l’ami de tout le monde” (8b) at the end of the day. I had tried this once last year and left my clips in it hoping that Ollie could take them out. Ollie was too lazy and couldn’t be bothered meaning that my clips have been in it for almost a year now! Amazing that they hadn’t been stolen! So I had a go yesterday and on my fist try managed to do the first boulder problem first time without too much difficulty (apart from one big dyno) and then made it into the second crux of which i fell off. The first crux is about V7ish to a big jug rest, then straight into a V3 with a bad rest right afterwards followed by a tricky V5 and then a sustained 7b to top out. I think this is a bit harder mentally to do than “Violent Illusion” and is probably among the harder 8b’s I have tried. I think the only routes that compare to this in difficulty are “Gaia” in Kalymnos, “Preventiva” in Disblia (Spain) and possibly “Migranya” in Siurana, but I think this is a bit harder than “Migranya” as the rests aren’t as good and the boulders are lower percentage. I don’t think this will take too much work seeing as how quick I have managed to do the hardest bit of the route (for me) and I am looking forward to getting on some more of the classic 8b’s and 8b+’s in Ceuse soon such as:

1) Radote Jolie Pepere (8b)

2) Le Churigien Du Crepuscule (8b)

3) The Black Bean (8b+)

If I could tick these three routes as well as “Violent Illusion” and “L’ami de tout le Monde” then I think this would be a very productive trip! I am also looking at a few 8c’s such as “Dures Limites”, “Le Cadre” and one 8c+ called “Bah Bah Black Sheep” as potential big projects for the trip, but one of them would be good enough for me to try.

Anyway, I am off to the crag now, enough lazing about on the computer…

Hope everyone is having fun this summer!

ROBZ OUT – PEACE!

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: Doylo on June 24, 2011, 10:22:50 pm
Nice one. Didn't quite manage Violent, fell off just before the jug but thought it was 7c boulder to 7b+. L'ami is a harder route but probably in thick end of 8b.
Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: Robbie_Phillips on June 25, 2011, 12:08:50 pm
Cheers dude! Yeah, I think Violent must be about that, as I said in the blog, I haven't done a lot of bouldering outdoors and the V9's I have done have been on sandstone. They felt around the same grade I think?

The top section is really funny, I can't tell how hard it is really. An aussie guy I know said 6c, but I thought he was mental! I reckoned at least 7a+, but didn't think it was as hard as 7b+ because there aren't really any tricky moves in it, but who knows? I read on 8a.nu that Daniel Woods reckons the bottom is V10! I would be bloody psyched at doing a V10 2nd go! But i don't think its that hard : P

I love L'ami de tout le monde! I think it is definitely harder (maybe not the individual moves). Its mentally more difficult since you have three distinct crux sections and you have to constantly be on your guard. I came close to doing it on my 4th try last night but unfortunately no cigar. Hopefully after a rest day : P  Definitely agree that its a tricky 8b!

On another note, saw a pic of your 8b/+ thing at LPT that Ioan was on. Has that been done yet or is it open? I would be well psyched to get on that, looks like one of the best bolted lines i've seen in the UK!
Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: Doylo on June 25, 2011, 06:20:17 pm
It would be 7b+ for me as i'm so unfit!  ;)

Don't know what pic you're referring too. ioan/lpt/my 8b doesn't make any sense to me but maybe if you describe the pic i'll know what you're referring too!  ;D
Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: Robbie_Phillips on June 26, 2011, 09:17:36 am
I think its called "The Brute"?

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150234456560076&set=t.668906670&type=1&theater (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150234456560076&set=t.668906670&type=1&theater)

This is a link to Ioan's picture of it, don't know if you'll be able to see it?

Maybe I am mistaken  :slap:

Off to do "L'ami" now  ;D PSYCHED!!!
Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: Doylo on June 26, 2011, 10:29:17 am
ah, thats a project of mine on the Little Orme, tis good. Crush!
Title: L’ami de Tout le Monde
Post by: comPiler on June 27, 2011, 01:00:09 pm
L’ami de Tout le Monde (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1076)
27 June 2011, 10:53 am

Yesterday was a great day for me… I finally ticked the a uber classic 8b of Ceuse, “L’ami de tout le monde”! This route has been in my sites ever since I first visited Ceuse and I haven’t been able to shift it from my mind. “L’ami” takes the steepest section of wall at the right hand sector “Les Maitres du Monde”. There are few routes at this sector, and to be fair, probably only two or three others that are worth climbing, but “L’ami” sets the standard of quality for 8b’s around the world!

I think the reason why “L’ami” is such a good route is simply because it encompasses such a large variety and style of climbing in only 25 or 30m of route. At the start, you are instantly engaged with a battle on probably the routes most physical crux, a small crimp into a half pad two finger pocket that you reach via a very high placed heel hook (an awkward position for me to get into). From the two finger pocket you reach a sharp but positive side pull pocket (from which you clip) then are instantly thrown into an extension of this boulder problem, a deep lock into another small crimp with your left, then another with your right, and finally the deadpoint to the massive jug which ends the lower crux!

Once at the jug, you can rest for all eternity if you want (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  Then you enter the second crux. This crux isn’t really all that hard, but its blowable, so keep your wits about ya! You get a positive crimp from the jug, then cross under into a really good undercut jug (one of the coolest moves ever!), then from the undercut, you press high up and right into a three finger jam, then lock into a really pad intermediate pinch which then gives you access into the higher crimp from which you jump (or static if you’re feeling it) into another big jug (definitely not as big as the last one).

You can then reach up into a good sloping ledge from which you rest at until heading into the final crux. This final crux isn’t anywhere near as hard as the first crux (despite what initially thought on subsequent attempts) but it is still very technical and possible to blow. The crazy beta that I needed for this was the very subtle and very un-readable finger sequence for the crux hold… thats right, I said finger “sequence”! Right index into first pocket, right ring into second pocket, thumb squeeze and middle into central divet for better crimpage power – THEN CRIMP UP!!! That finger sequence made the move feel easy as opposed to the impossible crux, proving that “every little counts”, Tesco’s don’t just do cheap chicken thighs (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

From the crux hold you lock of into some good pockets and then really, its just a bit of sustained climbing into good holds all the way to the top (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)  When i clipped those chains I was so happy, but also a little sad. This route had been something of a benchmark for me, a route that I knew if I could climb, that I would be confident of my abilities to climb consistently in the 8b grade and push further beyond that level! After almost doing it on my 4th try, I was so psyched to be able to tick this route so quickly and on my 5th attempt it was sent (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)  Its the end of an era, but the start of an epic, because right after I lowered from “L’ami’s” chains, I went straight over to Biographie wall and attempted the mega monolith that is “The Black Bean” (or Beau depending on who you talk to).

“The Black Bean” is a 70m long 8b+ extension to the famous 8a “Les Colonettes”. One of my dreams over the past 5 years has been to one day, top out of Ceuse and walk down the back… although this is not possible on the route, its one step closer to it than I have ever been before and It would be a massive achievement for me to clip those chains and lower of the top of Ceuse!

I was happy to retro-flash the 8a start “Les Colonettes” which I had done 3 years before. After that, I just started to work on the 8b+ part. Managing to do every section first go and then finding that the last 30m of it isn’t really that hard at all (probably 7b+) was a bit of a shock. The route is really long, but not that physical… you don’t really get boxed on it, just tired more than anything. When I came off the route I was mentally exhausted, climbing for 2 hours takes a lot out of you, especially when its 8b+ overall and your not really that sure what your doing. My plan for today is to go up later and try and do it first go, which would be my second try in total. This would be an amazing achievement for me, but we’ll see, its very long, very technical and there’s quite a few places where you can blow silly little sequences by being a bit sloppy. Alex Barrows (the last British Ascensionist) has been going through sequences with me this morning and his are quite a lot different and sound a lot better, which worries me slightly (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

We will see…

I have heard that there is a bit of a heat wave in the UK, so hope everyone is enjoying it out at the crags – and congratulations to all the kids who entered the YCS finals in Wolverhampton!

See ya’s

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Topping out Céüse (well… nearly)
Post by: comPiler on June 30, 2011, 01:00:12 pm
Topping out Céüse (well… nearly) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1080)
30 June 2011, 10:26 am

Yesterday I climbed the longest route of my life!

In the Biographie sector of Ceuse there are three main lines that go from the bottom all the way to the top:

There are now other routes that go to the top, but none as impressive as these three outstanding lines. The line I took was of course, “The Black Bean” (8b+). I had a brief look at the route one evening after climbing another popular classic of Céüse, so didn’t have a lot of time to check it out, but enough to work out a viable sequence for the bottom crux and clamber my way through 30+m of 6c-7a+ climbing to reach the chains.

“The Black Bean” climbs up one of Céüse’s most popular 8a’s, “Les Colonettes” and then continues for another 40m to near the top of the crag. Immediately after “Les Colonettes”, you are confronted with 10m of very technical climbing (essentially the 8b+ crux). The climbing isn’t physically hard, but it’s quite technical and definitely a little more involved with the old footwork than you’d like after having already climbed 30m of 8a. My first attempt on the route saw me reach the mid-way point of this crux before my foot popped on one of the slippy, marble footholds. I both love and hate this kind of climbing, if you fail it feels crap because you know you’ve got to get back on it and deal with the slippy footholds again, but if you succeed, its an awesome feeling because for a brief amount of time after the ascent, you feel like you’re a really technical climber… before you fail on something else thats really techy.

I thought I would get this route on my third go, I was confident, I knew the sequence and the conditions where pretty good. I blasted through the first 30m of 8a, got established into the crux and seemed to cruise this without much effort. I was resting before the start of the last 30m of climbing, looking up into the endless overlaps of blue rock… I was scared… oh so very scared! All I had to do was a couple of big run-outs on 6c climbing then two more techy 7a+ish sections. Anyone who has done a route like this will know just how scary the last section of wall is, especially if its technical and you’ve just done a big hard section beforehand. Cutting a long story short, I managed to fall off 5m from the top on a bit of tech filth… I fluffed it royally!

After that horrible feeling of knowing that I had made such a big mistake, I swore to myself that it wouldn’t happen again… luckily I succeeded on my fourth attempt at the route despite the worst conditions I have experienced in Céüse this whole trip. It definitely didn’t feel as easy as the previous attempt but I certainly wasn’t going to let go on the account of if I did, I would have to climb it AGAIN!!! Maybe not the right attitude, but 70m routes do something a bit strange to your mind, especially if you have fallen off with the chains staring you straight in the face.

Regardless of a few slip ups, the route was an incredible experience and some of the best climbing I have done in Céüse. The 6c part was probably the best bit of climbing at that grade I have ever done, a shame you have to more or less climb 8b to get there : P

What’s next? I have decided to stick some quickdraws in the classic 8c, “Dures Limites” and try projecting that. At the same time I am going to attempt to tick of some of the classic 8a’s-8b’s between attempts in an attempt to maintain my chain clipping throughout the trip (which tends to stop when I start trying projects).

Also, friends from around the UK will be arriving in the next week, so psyched for that. Ed and Sam Hamer will be amongst the first to arrive I am guessing, followed by Londoners Kitty Wallace and Andre Hedger, then the Irish crew just after that lead by Eddie and Rachel Cooper!

PSYCHED!!!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Pyramids, Points + Prizes
Post by: comPiler on July 03, 2011, 01:00:29 pm
Pyramids, Points + Prizes (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1084)
3 July 2011, 11:41 am

My mate Alex told me my pyramid on 8a.nu was wonky… so I thought I better make it more… pyramid shaped…

Climbers all around the world follow the rules and ranking of the well known website 8a.nu. For those that haven’t heard of or seen this website before, I am sorry for you, because you don’t get to partake in the daily (sometimes hourly) checkings of the ranking board to see if your friends (sworn enemies) have beaten you yet.

Joking aside (but not really), the 8a.nu website I have found to be an incredibly useful tool to see my progression from year to year. You can do exactly the same thing on the UKC logbook, the only difference being if you have an ego as big as mine, then you feel inadequate not being ranked beside fellow climbers : P Over the years, I have seen steady progression in my climbing:

2006 – Onsighted my first 7c

2007 – Onsighted my first 7c+

2008 – Onsighted my first 8a, did a lot of 7c+’s second go!

2009 – Trained a lot, did comps, didn’t get out much, but onsighted some more 8a’s

2010/2011+ – Onsighted more 8a’s, Climbed 13 x 8b’s, 4 x 8b+’s and hopefully 8c in the next few weeks?

I see an obvious progression here over the years, I wouldn’t have seen this without a logbook of some sort to note down all my achievements in climbing. Of course I could have done it in a scrap book (I do this as well), but on a computer where it is planned out in front of you with progression charts and in a neat format is quite appealing to the eye. I also enjoy looking at my friends scorecards when they have done new climbs, or seeing what they have commented on about the same routes.Its also a very useful database when looking up routes that you want to try for the future!

I love the hilariousness of the daily routines of climbers in campsites at sport crags:

Its great how the updating of one’s logbook comes before dinner – its importance is so high, the second it is updated is essential, some even do it from the crag if they have internet on their phone : P Some enjoy the competitiveness of the ranking (I know I do), just between friends and certainly not as a goal to aspire to be 1st in the UK/World, but it is good to have a bit of competitiveness in anything we do, it will make us try that little bit harder and become that little bit better. If I am honest, after a bad days climbing, it even makes me feel better logging on and looking at my past climbs (good days) : P

One thing I noticed on my logbook was that I had climbed so many 8b’s but very few 8a+’s! Yesterday I decided to take the first step to adjusting this scenario by climbing a popular 8a+ called “Dolce Vita”. I really want to onsight 8a+ soon, so I need to start getting on them and trying rather than chickening out and just going for redpoint attempts. I had a flash attempt of “Dolce Vita”, got to the crux, then fell. It wasn’t that bad really, definitely a bouldery 8a+ but a really good route. I should’ve done it second go but my hand slipped going for a jug, so I just did it on my 3rd go. Interestingly, most people think this is closer to 8b than 8a+… weird as I thought that “Petit Tom” (8a) right next to it was probably not much easier. Very similar in style i.e. Bouldery crux followed by a much easier finish, perhaps “Petit Tom” being a bit more sustained?

It’s funny how a grade can scare you. I am a bit fearful of 8a+, probably because I haven’t climbed many of them, whereas 8b’s are standard and I would expect to do them really quickly now. If I want to onsight 8a+ soon, it is essential that I start getting on more, going for onsights, then ticking them to get the mileage of 8a+’s in. This will make me a lot more confident at the grade and therefore a lot more likely to succeed at onsighting them.

So yesterday, as well as ticking “Dolce Vita”, I also had my first proper look at “Dures Limites” (8c). I was really happy with this, I managed every move pretty quickly and figured out a really good sequence. The top wasn’t nearly as hard as I expected but still very blowable. The route is probably around f7b+ until a big rest in a bulging roof section followed by the crux of the whole route, seven or eight very intense moves between very small holds with very bad feet : ) My guess at the boulder grade of this section of wall is around F7B+. I say this because I don’t think its physically as hard as the “Violent Illusion” (8b) crux (V9) but way more technical and subtle with body positions and foot movements. Also, how you hold holds is very important! After this crux, there is an easier section of positive crimps and pockets, then a good rest on a sideways sloper and an edge with good footholds. You can more or less fully recover here (i think?) then you have the final crux, probably 6-8 moves of much less hard climbing. The hardest move on this section is a really deep drop knee cross through from a small half pad crimp into a 2 or 3 finger crack that you crimp the edge of (I challenge those that want to jam it), from there you turn into a bad crimp over the lip of the bulge and bump again into the good pocket, from there to the top it isn’t that hard. The boulder problem of this is probably on V3 or V4, but sketchy since you’ve just climbed the meat of an 8c to get there.

Here’s hoping it feels easier next time : )

Hope everyone is enjoying the summer weather, get out and keep cranking

ROBZ OUT



Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Moving on up…
Post by: comPiler on July 04, 2011, 01:00:15 pm
Moving on up… (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1087)
4 July 2011, 7:20 am

Hey guys!

Yesterday was a pretty good day for me, I finally managed to flash 8a+! Well kind of… technically I had tried the route before, but only very briefly and only the bottom section. I couldn’t remember what the route was about and had no recollection of any of the sequence so it was for me definitely a flash attempt. I could have used some beta for the lower crux as I got totally wrong handed and mucked up, but managed to sort myself out in time to stick the crux and continue onward to the final bulges. On reaching the final section of wall, I was very nervous, the holds where all positive but quite small and on small flat edges for feet, but thankfully I managed to stay collected and continue up the wall to the anchors without any problems.

After my success on the 8a+ I then went to try “Dures Limites” (8c). A wicked strong and super cool spanish climber called Daniel Moreno had just come of from it coming so close to sending it. He was fighting through both cruxes but managed to get all the way to the last move before falling of! Gutted! This guy has flashed 8c and climbed 9a, so if he was struggling on it, then there wouldn’t be much hope for me. He reckons its a pretty hard 8c, a nice thing to hear seeing as the moves feel desperate, but I still reckon I can do it. My attempt yesterday wasn’t as good as my first attempt the other day as my skin was so sore and I was also a little tired, but I learned some new beta for the bottom crux and refined my sequence.

Today is a rest day, think we might head down to a little gorge that our friends know off, its meant to be a nice place for a swim with some sick jumps of boulders! YEAH!!!

Also, forgot to say, Luke Tilley, Ethan Walker, Ed and Sam Hamer have just arrived. They have been here for two or three days now and are ripping it up! Ed and Luke flashed the classic 8a, “Carte Blanche” yesterday as well as a 7c and 7c+ flash the other day as well. Sam also flashed the famous 7c “Vagabond D’occident”! Keep ripping it up guys!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: The Hard Limit
Post by: comPiler on July 06, 2011, 01:00:14 pm
The Hard Limit (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1092)
6 July 2011, 11:32 am

Hey Guys

I was a little lost yesterday… I had in my mind that I wanted to try and onsight an 8a+ and have at least one attempt on “Dures Limites”, but in the end I got stuck hanging off a rope taking video footage of people on “Lapinerie” (7b) and “Seurs Froides” (8a+). It seemed that everyone in our group was up for a go on “Lapinerie” that day and despite a good number of attempts by everyone, only one got the send. Tom Butterworth nabbed the 7b on his third try, Nice!

At the same time, Jacob, fresh from his first hard route of the trip (Carte Blanche, 8a) was eager to try the stunning 8a+, “Seurs Froides” to the left. He had only been on it once before and had not really tried the top section much so was still a little hazy with beta, but keen just to give it a bash and see what happens, he went for it with me shouting beta from a hanging rope : P BETA ORB!

In the evening after everyone had left, I decided to go for “Dures Limites” (8c) my project. This was my third attempt at the route, Jacob belayed me and Nat was hanging of the rope videoing. I breezed up through the first section of wall into the bulge before the crux. I waited around for a while to give Nat some time to get into a good position to video, then I went for it! From the big jug, I crossed into a good slot then slapped out into the first small crimp of the crux. I went again with my right into the crappy pinch and readjusted my feet. From there, I did a big drop knee, bumped my left foot up and slapped into the bad two finger pocket over the bulge. I have been struggling to reach this hold before but found some key beta for it which has made it much easier. From the two finger, i stabbed into a better left hand crimp, then bumped up my right into the first sloper crimp, then into the second sloper crimp with my left… I was struggling now but only had two moves left of the crux until I was into easier ground. I slapped up with my right hand into the awkward 3 finger pocket (PSAHHHHHH!!!), tried to adjust, then fell… PHEWWWW! One more move and I am into the easier section of the route, then a rest, then one more crux at about V6ish?

After a couple more blasts through this sectin, reinforcing my sequence, I discovered something amazing! The horrible pocket that I am struggling to get into with 3 fingers turns out to be better and stronger with… BACK 2!!! I couldn’t believe it, my first back 2 pocket outdoors – possibly ever come to think of it? Amazing that this happened, I am so psyched by it hahaha It feels quite comfortable moving into it, then holding it, but moving of it still feels pretty hard but at least it feels easier than with three fingers. Psyched!

The route is tearing chunks out my fingers so I have to try it sparingly. I am at last happy that I have found something truly inspiring to try day in and day out as well as challenging me to my limit. This year has been amazing, but I have yet to get on something that has pushed me to the edge, I have a feeling that this will take me as close as I have ever been. If I don’t do it before I leave, I won’t be disheartened, because at least I will know that it defeated me in 2011, but I will return to face it after another year of training in 2012!

I am psyched today to get on an 8a+ called “Femme Blanche” that I tried last night as well. Its really slabby and technical and will challenge me in a different way than any other route has this trip, its also really scarey with mega runouts… FUN!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Demi Lune Action
Post by: comPiler on July 07, 2011, 01:00:15 pm
Demi Lune Action (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1100)
7 July 2011, 10:45 am

Hey Guys

Today is a rest day… finally! For some reason, the last two days have felt like an age, I don’t know why? Possibly because I’ve been on quite a number of different routes, learning lots of sequences and dealing with lots of different styles of climbing. Yesterday I was hoping to get on “Femme Blanche” (8a+) in an attempt to do it second go after my failed onsight attempt, however, the draws had been stripped and I couldn’t really be bothered scaring myself on the top slab whilst placing quickdraws… good attitude I know : P So instead, I opted for the much harder 8b/+ just to the right. The route is called “La Chirugien du Crepiscule”, its long, vertical and bouldery! I had spoken briefly with a friend of mine, Jan Hojer from Germany, about the route very briefly at the last European Youth Cup in Edinburgh. He told me it was desperate for 8b and no doubt would be 8b+ anywhere else! I took his warnings too lightly I think…

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Demi-Lune.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1102)Demi Lune Sector, Ceuse I managed the first 4 to 5 clips with not much problem, until the crux showed its ugly head. Spaced just over a clip, a series of really locky, twisted moves of small one finger and two finger pockets lead its way up the slightly overhung wall (with no feet) to one really powerful slap into a sharp two finger pocket then a desperate catch into a gaston left two finger press! It was absolutely desperate… I managed to get past the crux once but couldn’t stabilise myself on the press and would always slip of adjusting my feet.  After this first crux, you are again encountered with some tricky climbing of small pockets, nowhere near as hard as the initial moves, but tricky none the less. After this you gain some easier territory then after a rest are confronted with a heinous sequence on really sharp crimps with big locks between them. Thankfully you gain another rest of a deeper two finger pocket right after this and can chill for a bit… before the heinous technical slab for the last two bolts! LOVELY JUBBLY!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/working-Dures-Limites.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1103)Working "Dures Limites" (8c) In short, I sacked that for the day. Its an amazing route (but very sharp) however, I think this route in particular might be more inviting next year after another years training (and skin growth from the damage it has done).  After trying that, I went back over to “Carte Blanche” sector to film Nat and Jacob on a couple of routes. Nat had her second attempt on “Carte Blanche” (8a) and I honestly thought she was going to do it! She fell right at the very end on the last section of wall – VERY IMPRESSIVE!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Nat-Carte-Blache.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1101)Nat high on "Carte Blanche" (8a) Also to mention, both Ollie Wheeldon and Jacob Cook sent yet another 8a! The famous “Bourinator” fell to there attacks with Ollie only taking a couple of days and Jacob doing it on his second try. BEAST!  Late in the day as everyone was packing up, I tried to convince our new Team GB member, Tom Newberry, to get on “Radote Jolie Pepere” (8b) with me just to try out the moves. We where both absolutely knackered from the days climbing, but I figured if we are having a rest day the next day, we may as well go up, figure the moves out and then go for the send on our next climbing day. In the end, Tom chickened out : P but I went up to take a look…  I was pleasantly surprised, despite being totally wasted from the days climbing, I onsighted the route all the way up through the first section of hard climbing, right up until the crux moves. I hung upside down in the daunting roof, a 30m drop below me… I was spying out the obvious crux, a blank grey featureless bulge leading out left to the hanging arete. After hanging for a few minutes recovering I pressed on into the crux, I locked deep at my waist and straight into a sharp sidepull. I rolled over my heel which had been hooking a big scoop in the rock and pressed into a nasty crimper, I went again with my left into a worse crimp and fell into the first one with my right! In my final moments on the wall, I gave a pretty pathetic slump sideways in an attempt to grab the final hold of the crux, then fell… I pulled back up the rope, did a bit of scoping about, brushed some holds and went to the top (which from there is about 6c?). Despite being totally destroyed, I managed to get really high on the onsight and even pull of some hard moves, this is yet another experience thats left me feeling that perhaps 8b onsight will be achievable in the future : )

PSYCHED!!!  Stay tuned for some video of Nat on “Carte Blanche” soon!

ROBZ OUT

P.S. Hamers, Walker and Tilley are all still crushing! Ed onsighted “Seurs Froides” (8a+), Sam ticked “Carte Blanche” (8a) and Ethan did his first 7b of the trip, “Lapinerie”.

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Flapper Fun
Post by: comPiler on July 16, 2011, 07:00:14 pm
Flapper Fun (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1117)
16 July 2011, 2:33 pm

Hey Guys

So I haven’t blogged in the last week, basically because nothing exciting has happened with my climbing. About a week ago my hand slipped whilst redpointing an 8b in Demi Lune and I suffered a massive flapper on the tip of my middle finger. It basically took half my pad off and its pretty darn deep too. It’s been one week since then and I still haven’t been able to climb with it. Looking at it now, even after one week of skin growth, the pad is still red raw and stings to touch :’(

I guess this is just one of the many annoyances that pushing hard on the rock can give. One of my goals this trip was to get on an 8c to see how it feels and possibly give it a good bash at ticking. After having around 5 attempts on “Dures Limites” (8c), I now know that 8c definitely is within my grasp and hopefully within the next year of training and getting outside climbing, I will see my first 8c redpoint.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Natalie-Berry-DV2-PS2.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1121)Natalie Berry cruising up her first 8a+, "Dolce Vita" I am in no big rush, currently, for my own climbing, I don’t really believe in spending endless weeks or months projecting a hard route to see a chance success eventually. Right now I am trying to improve myself as a climber by ticking a multitude of hard routes in different styles quicker… variety is the spice of life.

By getting on “Dures Limites”, I have learned what is required of me to climb this type of 8c quickly. I reckon if I had chosen an 8c that was more sustained, then perhaps I would have ticked it quickly, but a bouldery style? Maybe not. If I want to build my level up from ticking 8b’s in quick style across the board to 8b+’s and 8c’s, then I need to focus on what my weak points are. Funnily enough, after the last cycle of dedicated training focussed on bouldering, strength and power is still my weak area. On “Dures Limites”, the first boulder problem always seemed very hard for me, despite being probably only about F7B+ in retrospect. Looking at other 8c’s in Ceuse, some are more bouldery and others more sustained, but they are all in common bloody hard routes (because they are 8c). “Chronique de la Haine” (8c) has two F7B+ boulders followed by an 8a+ route according to Arnaud Petit. “Bah Bah Black Sheep” which has now been downgraded from 8c+ to 8c due to a change of sequence or possibly change of bolt placements has a route 7b+ start into a F8A then into a 7b route to finish. Basically, this is screaming to me that I need to get stronger as a boulderer, I have ticked boulder 8b’s, endurance 8b’s and power endurance 8b’s all pretty quickly, but now I need to up my game and take it to the next level.

I have been climbing out here with a number of the British Climbing Team as well as other from teams across Europe. Its awesome watching everyone ticking hard routes and seeing the multitude of different styles in action. Ed Hamer, Sam Hamer and Luke Tilley are amongst the team ticking hard out here. Sam has been on form making quick succession of a lot of 8a’s and 8a+’s, Luke has even managed to flash two 8a+’s in different styles and Ed has been demolishing everything like its a warm up. I have known Ed for years, but I only get to see him at competitions and training days. Out here I have been watching him climbing everything, making it look all pretty easy.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Ed-Hamer-PBV2-PS.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1122)Ed Hamer on "Realisation" (9a+) - at least he might as well be : P Actually he's just making "Blocage Violent" (7b+) look bloody nails! I honestly believe that his strength far exceeds what he is climbing on routes, he is a power house with endurance and is without a doubt one of the strongest guys operating in the UK sport climbing scene. I am positive he could climb 9a if he wanted, but I like his style, ticking of lots of routes, having fun and not putting any pressure on himself (unlike me). I am going to take a page out of his book for a while with regards to my new training strategy at home (which probably won’t come into effect until November due to work/trips).

Anyway, although i haven’t been ticking, Nat has truly come into her element! She has made very quick ticks of four classic 8a’s here in Ceuse as well as ticking her first 8a+ “Dolce Vita” in only 3 tries! Despite being very bouldery and considered top end 8a+, she made it look pretty easy and I think that this could be the start of an amazing year for her sport climbing. With Yorkshire trips in August, Kalymnos in October and Spain early next year, I can’t quite imagine yet what she is going to do…

Hope everyone is having a good summer still, looking forward to returning to the UK for some Yorkshire limestone action : )

ROBZ

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Home + Away
Post by: comPiler on July 26, 2011, 01:00:43 am
Home + Away (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1129)
25 July 2011, 10:09 pm

So…

We have returned from yet another sport climbing adventure in Europe. The last 2 weeks of our trip where a bit tough, what with my skin injury and Nat being ill, but hey, its been a pretty awesome year for climbing so far so what’s two weeks? As Nat said in her blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/natblog/?p=80), we learned a lot from the trip and as soon as we had left the crag on our way home, we were already planning our next moves towards overcoming our new challenges and seeing our climbing goals met this year. Both Nat and I built ourselves a new set of goals for the next year and a training plan to follow. Our plan is based on a few different things i.e.

So our new training plan is based on the above. Weaknesses we have discovered need ironed out, training techniques we have learned over the year need applied, climbing trips need to be made the most of with appropriate goals and training strategies set towards them.

We have 3 weeks until Yorkshire, then another 3-4 weeks spent there. We won’t have a car for that time so it will be interesting to see how we survive : P We decided to base ourselves at Malham for the most part of it because its a crag we love to climb at and we have plenty to go at there.

After Yorkshire, I have probably around 2 weeks to train until a trip to Verdon with Alex Barrows. Out there we hope to climb the iconic tufa line of “Tom et Je Ris”. This has been something on the tick list for a while now so when Alex gave me the call and asked if I was keen, I jumped at the opportunity! If we manage to tick this amazing line, then I would love to get stuck into some of the hard multipitch the Verdon has to offer, but I have a funny feeling that I might get totally spanked : P

After Verdon, I have around 2-3 weeks more to train before I head of to Kalymnos for coaching and climbing! I absolutely love Kalymnos, I have been there five times now and I am still not sick of it. This year I want to bring Nat along with me for a week or two so she can experience Kalymnos again after 8 years since she was last there. My plan for Kalymnos this year is to attempt more 8a and 8a+ onsights as well as gearing up for my first 8c and potentially some more 8b+’s? “O’dracinian Devil” is on the cards…

After Kalymnos, I am taking some time out of trips and outdoor climbing for a few months over the winter and getting stuck into some solid training! I have big plans for a Spain trip in March and I need to be on fighting form for then. Additionally, having a good trip in Spain will set me up well for yet another training cycle geared towards the ultimate trip, Ceuse 2012! My 12 month plan is built with this in mind… Ceuse is my dream crag, a place where I am always humbled and brought down a notch. That magical limestone paradise teaches me new things everytime I go there and I can’t resist learning more from it. I plan on being fitter, stronger and better than ever before by August next year and I have my whole year planned out to get me there…

BRING IT ON!!!

ROBZ OUT

Martina Cufar – Tom et je ris 8b+ 60 meters -… (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x6u4o6_martina-cufar-tom-et-je-ris-8b-60-m_sport) by worklessclimbmore (http://www.dailymotion.com/worklessclimbmore)

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Yorkshire Coaching + Climbing
Post by: comPiler on September 10, 2011, 03:34:08 am
Yorkshire Coaching + Climbing (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1155)
18 August 2011, 10:25 pm

Hey Guys

Apologise for not blogging at all this past wee while. I have been mega busy with work recently and haven’t had a spare moment to write anything up. For the past few weeks, my life has been building up to the next 3-4 months of work/trips. I had been training like a demon in Ratho, building my strength and power back up since Ceuse for the brief periods of climbing I will get in between coaching work in Yorkshire. I had been focussing solely on recruiting my contact strength that I had lost climbing longer routes in France so that the shorter routes at Malham won’t feel nearly as grim as they usually do. My strategy has been very much on the side of strict finger boarding and campus board regimes topped up with a bit of campus bouldering and some hard routes once a week to keep my head in the game of clipping bolts and taking big whippers.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Nat-Raindogs.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1163)Nat eyeing the chains on "Raindogs" (8a) Before I left for Yorkshire, I managed some PB’s on both the campus board and fingerboard, taking some small steps closer to my February training goals. I even managed a very good onsight attempt on Lisandros new Yellow 8a+ on the main wall at Ratho which I was very satisfied with – one hold further and I’m sure it would have been guaranteed. I scraped a third go ascent in after my second attempt was flustered by the removal of a key jug volume and replaced with a big sloper!

Now we are down in Yorkshire, we have already finished our first coaching weekend which has went down very well. Our clients, Ben and Peter had an excellent time climbing in the Yorkshire dales at some superb crags such as:

1) Robin Proctors Scar (Day 1 + 2)

2) Trow Gill (Day 3)

3) Malham Cove (Day 4)

The first day was spent getting used to climbing on rock, both Peter and Ben haven’t climbed too much on outdoor sport and needed a bit of a reminder of how to place your feet on the little limestone edges and to get used to the exposed nature of outdoor cliffs. In one day, both of them managed an impressive ticklist covering 9 routes each!!! Ben lead a 6b+ on the first day whilst Peter made impressive links on the same rope on top rope with an aim to leading it the following day. Ben also started work on a 6c+, to be his first of the grade outdoors.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Coaching-Ben.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1160)Ben and I sitting down, examining the guidebook for Ben's next challenge! On the second day, both Ben and Pete made some more impressive ascents and saw massive progress in their performance. They totalled 7 routes each including Bens first 6c+ lead despite not cleaning it on toprope beforehand (seems his fear of falling is getting better) whilst Peter sent his first 6b+ lead and followed up with 6a+ onsight on lead as well! Ben also went on to flash his first 6c on toprope as a final route to the day.

On the third day, the guys eager for more opted for a new choice of venue, so we headed towards Trow Gill. Despite the long walk, an excellent crag and superb quality routes from f5 to f7c (the harder stuff looked a bit choss if im honest). Peter totally conquered his fear of falling this day with a mega onsight of the classic 6a groove at the crag – committing and techy! Pete also took some mega whippers fighting for the red point of the incredibly bouldery and overhung 6b to the left. Despite falling numerous times, he still came back for more right up until his final attempt when he fell literally at the jaws of victory staring straight at the chains! One for next time. Ben truly showed his improvements from the trip, he was confidently climbing the lower 6′s and looking good for 6b+’s onsight on lead (falling at the final moves). He even went for the filthiest 6c+ at the crag (later discovered to be 7a on UKC) confidently with his head held high, a big improvement from the start of the trip.

On the final date at Malham Cove, despite three days of hardcore climbing, both Pete and Ben where at the crag gunning for “Rose Coronary” 7a! Peter made some good links and will definitely be back for more, but it was Ben who made the day with his first Top rope 7a clean! He then went on to more lead attempts failing only due to lack of skin and energy – next time mate!

Overall, a very successful first coaching trip, a really great bunch of guys who where a pleasure to work with made it a really enjoyable trip for Nat, Will and myself. Psyched for the next one!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Walking-Malham.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1162)Nat and I walking out from Malham on our last coaching day On a personal climbing note, we have had a couple of climbing days to ourselves. Nat has been occupied with the classic of the crag “Raindogs” (8a), she had two days on it properly and on her third morning managed to tick the route! The funny thing about this route is that you can be as close as can be on your first go, but it still takes a few more to grab that chain! Nat looked like she was going to tick the route second go, I have never seen anyone make an 8a (especially this one) look so easy. She did it on her 7th go after 5 previous attempts seeing the chains slip through her fingertips…

Will Carroll (our friend and photographer for the coaching weekends) has had his sights on the crimp fest 7b known as “Bongo Fury”. After two very close attempts (2nd and 3rd) he finally managed to clip this chains on his 4th – whilst I was filming so stay tuned!

He is now working on it’s 7b+ brother to the right – “Wasted Youth” – possibly the dirtiest looking 7b+ on the planet, you wouldn’t catch me dead on those razors!

All my routes have unfortunately been wet. I was eager for the classic 8b “Austrian Oak”, after a very promising first go I was keen to go for a second attempt at it the next day only to find that the rain has soaked the vital jug rests : ( My other option was “Predator” but the top of that is wet meaning a 4/5th ascent is only possible. The only decent route dry was “Overnite Sensation”, so after an onsight attempt fail after the first bolt : P  some work on the dog (and some very nice beta from Toby Dunn – thank you very much) I managed a very nice second go which I am rather pleased about. This is my hardest at Malham so far, but didn’t feel at all too complex or testing for what I always expect Malham 8′s to be like, hopefully this is a good start to a half decent Yorkshire tick list this year – bring on the Malham polish!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Overnite-Sensation.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1164)Me climbing "Overnite Sensation" (8a+) - 2nd go So anyway, we have a few more coaching weekends to look forward to and hopefully some more time having fun at the cove, stay tuned for the video of Nat doing “Raindogs”, Will on “Bongo Fury” and me on “Overnite Sensation”

Peace

Robz Out

P.s. Images to follow

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Killing two Predators with one Acorn
Post by: comPiler on September 10, 2011, 03:34:10 am
Killing two Predators with one Acorn (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1171)
21 August 2011, 6:05 pm

19/8/11

Today got off to a rather inauspicious start, I was lethargic after yesterday’s rest day and even the 7a warm up on “Consenting Adults” didn’t quite seem to do the trick off re-activating my energy stores. On the previous climbing day I had had a wee play on “Predator” (8b) but couldn’t decide whether or not to try that or another route today. After deciding with myself that the top of “Predator” still looked wet as it was the previous day, I decided to try something different, perhaps “Mid-ledge Spread” (8b) another one of Malhams classics I have yet to try.

After warming up a bit, one of my friends Adam Lincoln showed his face at the crag. It was good to meet up with him as I hadn’t seen him in quite a while and it was good to catch up. He was here to film Jordan Buys on “Cry Freedom” (8b+ or 8c). When Adam abseiled from the top of the cove to film Jordan, he could see that the top of “Austrian Oak” was dry and thus my mind was made up. “The Oak” has been something on my tick list for a very long time, indeed as long as I’ve been visiting Malham for that matter. It’s an awesome power endurance style route with lots of powerful moves from undercuts, a style that I’m not very good at.

I had one go on “Austrian Oak”, scouting out the sequence, scoping for potential rests (all of which at first glance appeared totally crap) and trying to link in sections (always helps for telling your mind that it’s possible). I managed to split the route into two sections on my first try the day before -

1) Bottom Boulder Crux – Half way jug rest

2) Jug rest – Top

Today it felt even harder! I had one attempt at doing the boulder problem and slipped off, from there, I just continued to work the route in sections again, fiddling about with the sequences whilst getting a bit of beta from Adam. I had a good rest after that with my mind set on getting through the start boulder with a view to potentially having a blast at getting through the middle crux afterwards.

Amazingly on my third attempt, it was as if the Malham gods were  blessing me with the invisible power of sticky pads, I climbed through the boulder crux without any difficulty straight into the good rest! I shook out out a couple of times, fully recovered then flowed through the middle traverse and into the red point crux (even managed to recover on the undercuts that felt so horrible before). I set off into the red point crux with no pump or loss of power and breezed through into the final jugs only for my foot to silently slip as I was re-adjusting on a jug! D’OH!!!!! It wasn’t so bad, I suddenly knew the route was possible, not only that, but I knew i could do it easily without a fight which doesn’t often happen on 8b’s! I went for one more go an hour later only for my foot to slip again quite low down, then in a haste of excitement and anticipation (possibly also a hint of stupidity) I got on within a few minutes and sent the route on my 5th try!

20/8/11

After some good sends the day before, I was eager for more! My fingertips where red raw but sometimes polished Malham limestone can be forgiving (can’t it?). I was again unsure of what I should try today and in the end, opted for “Predator” since it looked a bit drier at the top than on previous days. I had one blast for it after my warm up, amazingly despite my fingers feeling pretty painful and the full heat of the sun brining down on the route I managed to get straight up into the crux and only fluffed it a bit due to the anticipation of reaching a good hold too early. I sat down on the rope, re- adjusted my sequence for the crux (mainly footholds – typical Malham) and went to the to the top (I couldn’t on my first go the other day as it was too wet).

A couple of years ago I had fallen off right at the top of this route, I was determined not to repeat mistakes of previous attempts here and fluff it again. I figured out a good new sequence at the top and returned back to the ground.

Nat had a wee play on “Predator”, she struggled quite a bit at the crux mainly due to reach on some of the moves but I’m positive she can find a sequence that will suit her.

When Nat got back down, I decided I might as well have a good blast before Will (our cameraman : p) got down, so I just went for it! The first section felt really easy (f7b-ish), I managed to recover really well at the crux and knew that if I just maintained myself instead of popping too early for a crucial hold then I would be fine. I set out onto the crux, it felt quite greasy as the sun was in full strength on it now but the moves didn’t feel hard (V5/6ish). I pulled through into a good rest at the top of the crux un-pumped but wary that I had fluffed it two years before on the final bulge of this route. After a few minutes of shaking out, I headed up into the final section. A tricky rock over established me on some small but positive edges and from there I clipped, I then did some tricky foot movements and locked out left onto a weird mono undercut and crossed through into a jug tufa! Thank god that was over, after resting a bit more on the tufa I pulled through the bulge and tip-toed (the foot holds are really small) to victory at the chains!

It was nice to tick my second 8b at Malham in as many days and of course the 8a+ “Overnite Sensation” on the day before, not bad for a few days at Britain’s top sport crag (many might argue with this but right now I’m content with it).

Nat has started work on “Overnite Sensation” and is looking strong on it. She is struggling a little with the boulder but crushes the top section despite the powerful last move. I had one go on “Unjustified” (8b+) and it felt really do-able! I did every move which is always a good sign although it did take a wee bit to figure out the crux – thanks to Alan for shouting up the beta. I reckon it felt like a Font 7B boulder problem to pull through the bulge followed by a French 7c to the top. Of course you also have to start up “Something Stupid” (7b) to get to the crux which is probably one of Malham’s filthiest 7b’s! I would almost prefer to start up “Raindogs” than do “Something Stupid” at least just to save some skin for the crux!

Oh well… Our next coaching group starts in 4 days, looking forward to it! A new bunch of psyched climbers to help achieve their Sport climbing goals!

PEACE

ROBZ OUT

Raindogs 8a – Natalie Berry (http://vimeo.com/27953089) from Robbie Phillips (http://vimeo.com/user7698642) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: There’s no “Justice”… Or is there?
Post by: comPiler on September 10, 2011, 03:34:11 am
There’s no “Justice”… Or is there? (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1178)
27 August 2011, 11:27 pm

22/08/11

Today has been an enlightening day for both myself and Nat. First of all, we headed to the crag early on, with no Will to slow us down we were off at 10am, eager to get our renewed fingertips shredded on some Malham razor blade crimps. My plan for the day was more attempts on “Unjustified” (8b+), the previous day having had one attempt working out the moves. Nat was psyched to get stuck back into “Overnite Sensation” (8a+), finally something that has at least provided her with a bit of a challenge.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/harry-potter-malham.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1181)Scoping out "Totally Free" (8b) and looking for signs of HARRY POTTER!!!! After warming up on “Rose Coronary” (7a), I decided that any more warming up might reduce my fingertips to bleeding stumps, so I got straight on the project. I was so psyched, despite being in the full blast of the sun I managed to work my way up straight into the bulging overhang and fell on the last move of the crux! Psyched for more, I worked the rest of the route and managed to dial the moves a bit better than previously, figuring out a cool new way of back 3 stacking the right hand flatty jug for optimum resting capabilities (sounds very technical… It’s not).

In the period between my next attempt, Nat had an go on “Overnite Sensation”. It was horrendously hot now and the sun was beating down causing all the tiny crimpy edges to practically sizzle with skin contact. Not only does the polish become even worse in the sun, but also thanks to Malham’s gleaming White colour, all the footholds become beacons of reflection to the suns rays and blind climbers all over the crag – basically the footholds are impossible to see! Nat got on with it anyway and did a bit more work on the upper section of the route, practicing the moves and gaining valuable sending knowledge.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/first-contact.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1182)First contact with Malham Tarn locals I decided climbing in the sun today wasn’t as good an idea as previously thought and so I opted out of trying my route until a little later in the day. It wasn’t so bad as we were visited now by Adam Jeewooth and friends. It was cool to hang with them at the crag for the day, I learned a few bits and bobs from Adam (namely that he didn’t bother with my poncy drop knee after the crux and instead just threw for the slopey crimp, not much help to me and my weak fingers) on “Unjustified” as he had climbed it the year before. He apparently also campussed the crux of “Predator” because his feet couldnt reach the footholds… BEAST!!!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/nat-predator.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1183)Nat crushing on "Predator" (8b) When the sun passed over Malham, I got off my butt and went for my third attempt on the project. It’s amazing what a bit of shade can do, the 7b “Something Stupid” (start of “Unjustified”) didn’t feel nearly as hard as it did earlier! I managed to get all the way up to the crux, I was a little nervous heading into it and was feeling the dampness of the undercuts (they seem to maintain a horrible goopyness within them). Before I knew it I was past the crux and dropping my knee about to pop into the slopey crimp! Unfortunately my foot blew of the foothold as i slapped for the crimp and I was off… Still I was well chuffed that I managed to get that far. After a brief rest, I got back on the rope and linked it straight to the top… I’m going to hope for a bit of cloud cover tomorrow and hopefully some skin growth overnight, perhaps I can sneak a cheeky 8b+ in before Verdon : P

After my best attempt yet, Nat obviously inspired (joke) blasted through the crux of her project and got a new highpoint, only slipping after resting at the halfway point. Both of us are psyched for what tomorrow may bring. On the walk out of Malham tonight we were stunned to see a saltire shaped cloud in the sky, perhaps this is a sign?

“Overnite Sensation” (8a+) – Robbie Phillips (http://vimeo.com/28245736) from Robbie Phillips (http://vimeo.com/user7698642) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).

27/08/11

So we haven’t managed to get to Malham since the start of our latest coaching group. We have been catering to the climbing demands of our new team of psyched up climbers, Stewart, Andrew and Nina. For the last couple of days we’ve been hitting Robin Proctors Scar, a crag favourite of ours as it’s scenic, tends to stay dry and has a good selection of quality routes in the f5-6c region.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Robbie-camera.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1184)Behind every sponsored climber, there's a cameraman : P We have seen some brilliant climbing done by thoses three. Stewart managed his first 6b+ onsight (lead), Andrew did the same 6b+ 2nd go and Nina has been making brilliant progress trying to overcome her fears. It’s been certainly challenging work with Nina, as she has a real phobia of the climbing at Robin Proctors. The crag isn’t very hard in difficulty but it tends to be committing at places with very exposed sections of wall. Amazingly, Nina found climbing at Malham Cove way more pleasant and had no worries here with the exposed nature of the climbs. Perhaps because it feels more like a climbing wall? Tomorrow we are going to head to Giggleswick in the morning to get a bit more mileage before heading back to Robin’s. Andrew and Stewart have a 6c+ project on the go whilst Nina has to overcome her fears on the dreaded exposed 6a! We also have to make a trip back to Malham at some point as Andrew and Stewart have made excellent progress on “Rose Coronary” (7a) and are determined to finish it!

Today was a good day for me and Nat. At the end of the coaching day, despite being incredibly nackered, I thought I might as well have a blast on “Unjustified” (8b+) since the shade has come in. Nat had a blast on “Zoolook” (8a) just before and got really high up and almost through the final crux, hopefully this shouldn’t take her too much more to get ticked. I had one attempt on “Unjustified” got into the crux but my foot slipped just as I was moving through the bulge. To my horror, I had smudged a massive bit of slime over the foothold (I must have kicked some off the wet streak) and this caused my foot to slip off. A bit pissed off since I was feeling so good, I decided to have a rest and try again after cleaning the foothold. I spoke to the coaching group about the pressure of Redpointing, this helped me to free things up in my mind. I think I have been getting a little too pressured with this route since I got through the crux on my third go. Ever since them I’ve been feeling the pressure, especially when I did the route from the end of the 7b to the top. Talking to everyone about it really helped me realise that I was taking the route too seriously and relieved a lot of the pressure. On my last attempt of the day (9th overall), just as the very last glimpses of light were leaving the crag, I went for it. The 7b section went smoothly, I got into the roof, had a quick shake out on the undercuts and breezed through the crux. I managed to shake out a little on every move, every hold after the crux i was solid and didn’t feel at all like I was pushing it too much. The last hard move to the two mini jugs (rest point before the last clip to the chain) was a but of a lock, but i felt steady up to reaching it, a nice feeling when climbing on 8b+/c ground. I got full recovery at the rest and went straight to the top!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Back-3-naked-man.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1185)Frustrated on rest days! Back 3 Table Boarding @ Ye Olde Naked Man Cafe - Settle I think this is one of my biggest accomplishments to date. Although it didn’t take too much time, I did feel the stress of Redpointing. This was mainly due to conditions being available only at the very last hours of the day and me being the impatient guy that I am, can never be bothered waiting, always seeming to get on it when it’s in the sun, ruining my skin and then sacking it off until another day, hoping for cloud cover (that never comes unless we are at another crag coaching).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/resting-predator.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1186)Resting @ the top of "Predator" (8b) The route didn’t feel anywhere near as hard as “Dures Limites” (8c), a route I was close to in Ceuse. This was at least a grade easier, but I think “Dures Limites” is considered a hard 8c so that would make sense. I reckon “Unjustified” is 8b+ and probably steady at the grade. Definitely harder than other 8b’s at Malham, but I’ve done 8b’s in Europe that I thought weren’t too far off the mark. Despite the grade debate, an amazing route, amazing line and I’m psyched to have done it! Thanks to Nat for holding the rope and apologies to those that heard my profanities… Namely Toby : )

Also, big up to rudeboi Ed Hamer, 2nd in the World!!!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: “Zoolook” – The 1/4 Life Crisis
Post by: comPiler on September 10, 2011, 03:34:12 am
“Zoolook” – The 1/4 Life Crisis (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1193)
2 September 2011, 9:24 pm

Since our last coaching trip, Nat and I have been pretty much knackered! All our energy, all our skin and all our motivation has dwindled and fallen away, we are empty shells of our former selves… I think a mixture of camping, cooking, climbing and coaching has drained us, without a car we can’t get much new food, of which we’ve been running a little low recently (thanks to Dalvinder for the groceries) and sleeping in a tent has definitely taken it’s wear on us.

Anyway, enough moaning… I decided next to face a route that has looked good ever since I’ve arrived, “Zoolook” (8a). Not wanting to sound like an arrogant prat, I figured, just another 8a, I’ll do this as a bit of mileage before looking at something harder… I want to slap my past self for thinking this! Although the route isn’t physically hard, nor is it technically that hard, it’s bloody awkward and polished to HELL!!!!! Nat went up on it first, I figured I might go for the flash. Unfortunately Nat didn’t manage to get up past last crux due to sore skin, tiredness and probably a lack of sleep. So anyway, I went for it, the starting crux wasn’t that hard for me, I think a mixture of being a bit taller and having good hip flexibility allowed me to make the first crux without any bother. I walked my way up to the second crux (pulling the bulge), getting a good shakeout below was handy as it didn’t seem like there was much rest after this. I headed through the overlap and where I had seen others struggle, I seemed to be ok. Still not pumped, I looked around for the next hold… A few moves later and I was totally blind, people shouting different things from below I was totally scuppered, I threw for a side pull that turned out to be an intermediate undercut and I fell. After a brief rest, I pulled back on and went to the top! After a quick glance through the crux, I figured it wasn’t that hard and I put it off until next go.

A day later, my confidence took another beating as I fell moving through the crux on my second attempt. A third attempt saw me slip again at the same point moving to a crimp off a good undercut.

Another day later I fell again at this same point on my fourth go! My feet feel like rollerblades on these damn footholds. I’m not remotely tired, pumped or in any way struggling with anything but keeping my feet on the footholds moving through the crux.

Today I was determined to do this route, out of a want never to give up, because I felt like a spanner falling off it so many times, but mostly out of spite! Two more falls due to foot slippage and I was tearing my hair out… Before my final burn on the route that day (if you can call it a “burn”, more like a stroll until someone trips you up and you fall flat on your face), another climber at the crag, Stu Littlefair suggested spitting on my shoes for a bit extra stickiness for the polished footholds. Like magic sticky spit from heaven, they stuck to the polished smears like glue and as I crossed over to the final hold off the crux, I had enough time to do a quick chalk and blow (my impression of flipping off a route whilst climbing)… That’s what I call an EPIC!!!!

Nat, also having similar difficulties with the route rocked up after me and despatched the route with similarly solid climbing (I think she may have actually swore at the footholds from the resting jugs : P).

At the end of the day I got on “GBH” (8a+), a left hand variant to “Zoolook”, starting at the same point and finishing on the same chains with only a 4-5 clips of difference verging out left instead of going out right (Zoolook). Amazingly, although not surprising, “GBH” felt quite a bit easier for me. The moves are more athletic but without the polished smears and uncertainty that “Zoolook” has. Hopefully I will despatch this tomorrow if I can grow some skin back before then.

Also, my two young padawans from Edinburgh, Angus and William are joining us tomorrow. We have a few routes lined up for them to try including:

“Free and even easier” (7a+)

“Bongo Fury” (7b)

“Something Stupid” (7b)

“Space Race” (7b+)

Untitled (http://vimeo.com/28462997) from Robbie Phillips (http://vimeo.com/user7698642) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Team GB-H @ Malham
Post by: comPiler on September 10, 2011, 03:34:13 am
Team GB-H @ Malham (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1205)
5 September 2011, 12:39 am

This weekend was our last in plum jam lovers country. After a whole month of camping, I can tell you we are both looking forward to getting home for a bit of rest (even If it’s only a day for me). After my successful ascent on “Zoolook” (8a), I turned my attention to another popular Malham classic, “GBH” (8a+).

After having a bit of an epic on “Zoolook”, I was a little worried as to how “GBH” would feel. I think though that our previous rest day did us some good as we weren’t nearly as tired as when we where on “Zoolook”. “GBH” felt a whole lot easier and went down 3rd go (2nd go I fluffed a foot position at the end of the crux). I thought both routes where absolutely awesome, top quality routes at the grade! I know a lot of people say that “Zoolook” is harder than “GBH”, and some think the opposite. In my opinion, they are probably around the same grade, the former being high in the grade, the latter low. The fact is that “GBH” is not very technical, it’s a burl fest and as long as you can pull between good holds for long enough you will do it. “Zoolook” however requires a bit of tech finesse and is definitely harder now than it was years ago due to the foot polish at the top. If it wasn’t for the polish, i think standard 8a, but I do believe that because it feels so uneasy (on your feet) moving through the final crux, this does add a bit to the grade and like I found out, requires a bit of luck. A funny thing for me to think about was whether or not I would prefer to climb “GBH” or “Zoolook” for the extension at the same anchor “Well Dunne Finish” (8b). The extension is originally for “Zoolook” but I have heard of people doing “GBH” as an alternative start, but does this count? Well, I can say that I would much prefer to do “GBH” as a start to “Well Dunne Finish” because I reckon I wouldn’t fall off before the start of the extension, but the sustained technicality of “Zoolook” through the crux adds that extra bit of spice. That definitely solidifies in my mind what type of climber I am, a thug! A more intelligent, technical climber would probably prefer “Zoolook”.

The last couple of days where spent mostly with Angus Davidson (12) and William Bosi (12), two boys whom I coach back in Edinburgh. They came down to meet us at Malham as part of the MCofS Scottish Team Training Meet. Unfortunately more couldn’t make it, but that didn’t stop us having a totally awesome time. 

A later start on the Saturday (due to the boys driving down with Williams parents on the morning) didn’t slow them down! Both boys warmed up on the classic “Rose Coronoary” (7a) and William after a bit more of a forearm pump also ticked off “Consenting Adults” (7a) with ease. 

I then pointed them towards a grizzly, gnarl fest 7b called “Something Stupid”. After route reading and discussing the sequence with them they both gave it a good flash burn. Angus was unfortunately a little too short for the conventional sequence and fell (not after a lot of stretching and pasting his feet higher) at the crux move. William also fell at the same move, in my opinion a hard one for those height challenged. After working out the moves for a bit and figuring out a new sequence (both of them different), the boys went for their second go redpoint attempt and ticked it off without too much effort. I half expected for them to continue climbing into the extension, “Unjustified” (8b+) : P

After a bit of lunch, both the boys got stuck into “Space Race”, one of my first 7b+’s and what I thought would be a good one for them to get on. After a lot of route reading and discussing sequences, they went for the flash! Both of them struggled on a big reach just before the mid-way rest and came off. No worries though, they pulled up and worked out the rest of the route. “Space Race” incorporates a lot of different styles of climbing, from slabby crimp filth, to burly undercuts, no hands rests then battling through roofs and finally a techy headwall! Not only this but there are also quite a few sketchy run outs that require a good head rather than just the brawn. After some more rest, William stepped up to the challenge! With an awesome battle (not without a few hesitations), William fought his way up the wall in what I can only describe as a typically “William” performance. All those who know him (or who where at the crag that day) can vouch for me in saying that he can certainly hang on – a trait I find quite useful in climbing. William got his first 7b+ outdoors that day, 2nd go and just after doing two 7a’s and a 7b, not too bad for a 12 year old. Angus, wisely decided to leave it until the Sunday as he was knackered from an already trying day. 

On the Sunday, both boys warmed up on “Free and even easier” (7a+). Angus rested at the crux (not wanting to burn himself out for “Space Race” whilst William made a cool flash – another one in the bag!). Angus psyched oot his mind for his race in space went over for some pre-red point attempt sequence reading. After yet another blindingly good performance up the wall, Angus was inches from victory, a fingertip away from reaching a no hands rest which would more or less secure it for him, unfortunately he lost his balance as he rocked over on a small edge and came hurtling towards the ground. A valiant effort for the young beast – despite this he isn’t happy (are any of us when we fall?). A lesson is learned for him in dealing with failure (something I am still educating myself on), probably the most important lesson but the hardest to learn. Angus tired from his efforts leaves it for the day and focusses on some other routes before he goes home – next time. 

Angus

“Rose Coronary” (7a) – Flash

“Something Stupid” (7b) – 2nd go

William

“Consenting Adults” (7a) – Onsight

“Free and even easier” (7a+) – Flash

“Something Stupid” (7b) – 2nd go

“Space Race” (7b+) – 2nd go

Both the boys had a great time at Malham this weekend and hopefully they will be getting outside more over the next year. A big part of being a coach is making sure that the kids you work with experience all that climbing has to offer – not just indoors, competitions, etc… But also sport, trad, boldering, winter and beyond! Hopefully Angus will be joining me in Kalymnos in October whilst William is heading to a comp in Arco, Italy (plenty of cragging to be done there though). They also have a potential Spanish trip to look forward to next year as well as more fun on British rock!

BIG UP TO THE KIDS!!!

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Verdon – So this is what it feels like to be terrified!
Post by: comPiler on September 11, 2011, 07:00:23 pm
Verdon – So this is what it feels like to be terrified! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1236)
11 September 2011, 2:37 pm

Hey Guys

So we’ve been in Verdon now for two days. Alex (Barrows) and I had a crazy drive down filled with hours of endless motorway, lots of winding country roads and one very unfortunate encounter with French 16 year old chavs!

I left on a train from Edinburgh one day after Me and Nats Yorkshire trip. I travelled down to meet up with Alex in Sheffield before driving down to France the next day. I have never driven such a long distance before, of course I did none ofnthe actual driving, but sitting in the passenger seat took a lot more out of me than I ever would have expected. A whole day of driving left us both pretty exhausted, we where keen for a rest, so decided to stop of, have dinner and sleep in a service station.

Sometime during the night, I heard a few noises, bumps and shakes. I put it out of my mind as other drivers from cars parked nearby. A couple of minutes later I heard some more noises, this time whispers and a faint feeling of cold air across my face… The door was open? I sat up turned round and was staring straight into the face of some French 16 yearbold boy in a hoodie with his mates! He had opened up the back of the car and was helping himself to our stuff! The Boy attempted to shut the door on me of which I pressed back open. After waking up Alex we got out the car to find my iPhone gone, his iPod gone, €60 disappeared from his wallet and my Credit card and a £10 note gone from my wallet. Amazingly, they had the decency to leave most of my change including the wallet which they could have nicked as a whole… What nice young fellows (or should I say – Garcons).

After a morning in the police station, we continued our journey towards Verdon. We arrived fairly late at night and so settled on checking out the crag the next day. Our big goal for this trip is to climb the amazing tufa line, “Tom et je ris” (8b+). One issue we never thought we’d have with this route was being able to find the damn thing! The guidebook is crap, all the web explanations are pretty bad and it’s an ab route, which means we are trying to find the top of the cliff rather than an obvious feature. It took us at least a couple of hours to find the route (not that bad since I heard it took Nina Caprez a lot longer on her first days search for the route).

After finding it, we had to ab in (very scary from around 150m off the ground). Well, I was crapping myself! Actually, I am super psyched for this route, it’s challenging me in a new way that no other route before has done – it scares me! I don’t remember the last time I was scared on a sport route? Maybe when I first started climbing sport outdoors, but I’ve done so much since then, so why is this different. I think simply, as well as being super high, it’s mega exposed! You are out flying on a hanging belay amongst falcons and vultures – they can smell fear you see! As well as exposure, the run outs are humungous and the tufas and footholds all break really easily! This is such a great experience and I’m loving every minute of it!

We’ve had a couple of days on the route so far, mostly learning how to climb in such an exposed position. It’s certainly a hard route and I think if I do it, then it will be my biggest accomplishment to date. It may not be as hard as other routes I’ve climbed, but the whole nature of the route encompasses any physical aspect. We will see… All I can say for now is that im PSYCHED OOT MA MIND!!!!

PEACE

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Verdon – A bit less terrified now : )
Post by: comPiler on September 14, 2011, 07:00:25 pm
Verdon – A bit less terrified now : ) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1238)
14 September 2011, 5:14 pm

I am finally getting my head sorted! No, I’m not getting my brain surgically removed – I know that a lot of people would prefer that – I’m finally getting my head into gear with all this climbing really high stuff. Alex and I did a classic 7a+ the other day called “Surveiller et Punir” which I think pretty much did the trick. It was awesomely technical and fairly exposed – it got me into a better place with regards climbing 120m off the ground and today I certainly felt the difference on “Tom et je Ris” (8b+). 

We’ve had two days on the route so far, owing to the impracticality of lowering to the start of the route every time we want to try it we have been mainly climbing on top rope. It’s far easier for working this style of route than on lead (and it’s less scary too). Alex is a big wimp and insists extending all the draws, you should see him blubbering about taking run-outs, honestly, he calls himself a rock climber… PFFFFFFFT! Today we decided to go for a big link – it’s really awkward to work the lower 10m of route on top rope so we just started from there. Alex went first – I lowered him to as far as I could still here his screams, them stopped fearing that if I lowered him any further he might just get stranded in space without any way of getting back to the wall. This would require some serious rope skills on my part to save him and trust me, that’s not a good idea! 45 minutes later he was mantling over the top of the cliff having climbed from 10m above the starting position. 

I was up next – after working some individual sections a bit, i decided to also go for a link. I managed to match Alex in linking from 10m to the top – and might I add, with a lot less puffing and sweating at the belay : P

Alex on his second linking go managed to go from a bolt and a half lower to the top and I repeated this afterwards also. It’s certainly looking good for a serious redpoint go soon – we are going to go to the bottom tomorrow on lead, if we can grow some skin back tonight we might just sketch are way to the top? If not then we will have another rest day after tomorrow and hopefully tick it after that… Hopefully!!!

If we do this soon, then we hope to avert our attention towards some classic multipitch madness – VERDON ROCKS!!!

Will be home soon and getting back to some serious training, mega psyched! I can’t climb 60m tufas forever, I think some serious boulder bashing down at A2 is needed – PSYCHED!!!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: Three Nine on September 15, 2011, 08:12:33 pm
dunno if anyone reads this nonsense, but got a txt from abarro81 today saying they'd both done it. i conclude from this that it must be soft 8b.
Title: “Tom et je ris” (8b+) – The Legendary Tufa
Post by: comPiler on September 16, 2011, 01:00:16 pm
“Tom et je ris” (8b+) – The Legendary Tufa (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1241)
16 September 2011, 10:43 am

Yesterday morning, Alex and I awoke cursing at the 6:30am alarm. We groaned a bit, made some breakfast (muesli w skimmed milk – cause that’s what athletes eat!), brushed our teeth, then drive to the Verdon Gorge (Rivière Gauche – left side). We drove through a huge damp cloud (a typical early morning occurrence in Verdon) before reaching the car park at the start of the walk. 

We packed up all our gear and headed off into the forest, on our way to do battle with the legendary tufa, “Tom et je Ris”. An hour and a quarter of walking up hill (worse than Ceuse), a bit of scrambling and lots of moaning about not having had enough cake for breakfast from Alex and we where at the top, looking over the vast Verdon Gorge, a huge dense cloud floating through the valley like from that movie with the Chinese ninjas flying about the place with swords – well cool!!!

We get all our kit out at the tip of the crag, Alex sets up a static line for abseil and I sit an eat rice cakes whilst pretending to look busy. In 15 minutes we are ready to go – Alex heads down first as I will be the first one to climb today. He gets to the bottom of the route, 60m below the top of the crag and sets up a hanging belay. I follow him soon afterwards – as I’m abbing in my fingertips burn just from looking at the spiky, sharp tufa. I lower past the least overhanging section of the wall and into the main overhang… I’m flying out from the wall, super exposed, tufas everywhere and hanging out with the vultures circling us on the wall : P

When I’m finally with Alex, he’s set up the belay and 5 minutes later it’s all mine. So we’d only had one previous day on the lower section of the wall. We where intending on having this day spent working the lower section since we where still pretty rusty with it (myself more than Alex, he’s a beta learning machine). On my first go, I just went bolt to bolt, reminding myself of the moves and trying to do some small links, unfortunately my fingers where so worn through from the day before, I was having a nightmare trying to warm up and it felt as though nothing was going to happen today. I did my best, learned where my feet had to go for every hand movement and where the shakeouts where. The lower section of wall is like a power endurance 8a with quite bad shakeouts (for me). I went to the jug rest, above from where I had linked to the top the previous day. 

I lowered and then it was Alex’s go. Alex did the same as me, bolt to bolt, working bits and bobs out, except he looked much better than me on it. He actually made a really good link from around the second clip to the jug rest (the start of the next 40m section – 8a+). Alex was well chuffed with this link, we both knew that if we got through the first 8a section, all we had to do was the endurance 8a+ to get to the top and we were both really confident with that section. 

It was now my go! I felt pretty crap, my fingers hurt and my body ached, but this would be my first proper redpoint attempt on the route and I figured that I might as well give it everything if we’re going to have a rest day tomorrow…

I started up the first section, I was quick and decisive with all my moves. I was  surprised at how previously my skin had been really sore, now it actually felt quite good? I sometimes get this if i haven’t warmed up properly, my skin will hurt initially, but after a while of climbing it gets better again. I managed to get a good link in from the bottom all the way to the first bad rest before heading into the second half of the 8a section. I shook out, confident and psyched that my skin didn’t hurt and I wasn’t really pumped or tired anymore. I started off again straight into a long, pumpy single tufa. Hand over hand, feet compressing the tufa and a burning desire to just get to that jug at the 20m mark which would set me up well for the next 8a+ section of wall that I knew really well. 

Before I knew what was happening, i was eyeing the jug, I locked off hard on my left hand and I was on it! I took both my feet of and replaced the left on a higher part of the tufa and slapped up to the better left hand jug! I heard Alex shouting encouragement below, I knew I could do it now, but I still had 40m left of potentially harder climbing… How was I going to pull this off? I shut my eyes and focussed, I need to just fight, never let go, pretend I’m linking sections to relieve some pressure. I headed into the next single tufa – it felt easy, I had never felt so good on this section. I continued into a further double tufa section, cruising for another 15m taking the run outs as they came, I even accidentally missed one of the clips and inadvertently took an even bigger runout, but I was psyched and in the zone, nothing mattered! 

I got to the end of the double tufa section and managed to rest with a bad knee scum. The next section was the first crux of the 8a+ section, I looked up, assessed the sequence and went for it! I climbed quickly yet again, not worrying about the foot smears I was bridging up on and just giving it all I could. I mantled out on top of a bulging tufa successful on the first crux. I rested a bit more here… My feet were really starting to ache now. This route has more to do with your feet than any overhanging route I’ve ever done. I shook out my feet on the bulge before heading into yet more tufa – this time two bigger tufas that you lay back up. I climbed this section without too much trouble and was into a short traverse out right on some tufa blobs, smears for feet and into yet another layback tufa leading you to the best rest on the whole route since the hanging belay (a good right hand jug, a left hand finger slot above and some small ledge smears for feet). The next section is probably the scariest, although not physically the hardest by a long way, it’s incredibly technical and involves too much smearing that no self-confessed jug puller can deal with. 

I de-pumped on the rest and went for it, the last few moves of the sequence where the scariest – right hand pocket, left foot sloppy pocket, left hand pockety crimp, right foot horrible smear, left foot horrible smear and reach for all mighty and hope that neither smear slips! I reached the jug and pulled up into a small cave where you can rest for as long as you need. All that’s left now is a small bulge with not really any hard climbing. I went through the bulge, pulled over the lip and was on top of the world!!!

I had climbed the legendary 8b+ of Verdon, “Tom et je Ris”! This is probably my greatest achievement to date. I’ve definitely climbed physically harder routes, but the whole aspect of this climb with it’s limited time to be climbed (between 7am – 2pm), massive walk in, ab in approach to start of route, hanging belay, mega long run-outs, technical nature of the climb and difficulty of working the route on dog made this my greatest accomplishment. It has opened my eyes to a new style of climbing and I’m psyched for more epic adventures like this one!

After completing the route however, the day was not over! Alex still had one go left before we headed back to the van, so I abbed back in and secured my hanging belay. Alex went for it and in similar style (maybe a bit more shabby : P), sent the route!!! TEAM ASCENT!!!! We think our ascents may be the first British Ascents, but we are unsure. It’s been a great adventure on this legendary route and our trip is still not over! We are psyched for more epicness, so we are looking towards something hard with more exposure and more pitches. We have eyed up a sick looking 8a multipitch in a huge cave somewhere in the gorge – stay tuned for more of our adventures if we’re still alive to write about them : P

PSYCHED

ROBZ OUT

Martina Cufar – Tom et je ris 8b+ 60 meters -… (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x6u4o6_martina-cufar-tom-et-je-ris-8b-60-m_sport) par worklessclimbmore (http://www.dailymotion.com/worklessclimbmore)

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: Doylo on September 16, 2011, 09:37:14 pm
Effort lads!
Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: grimer on September 16, 2011, 10:18:14 pm
What a beautiful looking route. We used to look across at that wall from the Carelle. It was banned but you always said how amazing it would be to climb on it. In the way you do, just because you can't.

What's the story with the route? Whose is it, Edlinger?

And what Doylo said.
Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2011, 10:31:33 pm
Good Effort Boys!
Title: This is why you don’t anger French guides!!!
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2011, 07:00:13 am
This is why you don’t anger French guides!!! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1245)
25 September 2011, 1:46 am

Hey Guys

I am finally home from my 2 week stint climbing in southern France. If you’ve been keeping up with the blog, you will know that I spent quite a bit of time climbing in the multipitch mad crag of Verdon. I ticked “The” classic of the gorge, none other than the famous tufa, “Tom et je ris” (8b+). It was an amazing experience to climb such an aesthetic line in such an exposed position and it’s not a route that I will forget in a hurry. 

Anyway, things moved on a bit after ticking this epic route. First of all, Alex and I had some serious chats about what we wanted to do with our remaining time. In the end we came up with the conclusion that being in Verdon, what else would we do but multipitch!?!?!? So we headed to the guides office on the way to the other side of the valley were we where intending to get on the famous 8a+ “Demence Senil”. Whilst in the guides office we met a very pleasant French guide… we spoke for the best part of an hour about our experiences of Verdon, climbing “Tom et je ris” (of which he claimed to be the bolter) and of what we where planning to do. It turns out that he had a mutual friend in common, Tom Randall! This wasn’t that shocking, climbing being a small community anyway. Turns out Tom and Pete (Whittaker) met him during their trip to Annot last year whilst they where crushing all the local french climbers projects. The guide joked a bit about this, apparently Tom and Pete mopped up all their hardest trad crack projects with ease. So anyway, we figured we’d ask him a bit about the route we where planning to do since he was the experienced local… By the end of the conversation he had convinced us that the crag we wanted to go to was a bit hard to get to and the climbing was a bit poor, I believe the words, “dirty”, “chipped” and “upside-down-roof-crack” where mentioned which kind of put me and Alex off a bit. Anyway, he showed us what seemed to be an awe inspiring monolithic wall not far from where we were going with a classic 8a going straight up the middle. He did mention that the 8a pitch had only recently been freed but that it was definitely possible. The rest of the route comprised of:

1) 7c

2) 7b

3) 6b

4) 8a (or A0 but freed early in year)

5) 7a+

6) 7b

So, Alex and I uber keen for this adventurous route set of the next day in search for it. When we arrived, the wall looked stunning! It was massive, steep and heavily bolted!!! After warming up on a slopey handrail below the crag we set of on our adventure!

The 7c was HARD! Holy crap, it had some spice involved in it for sure! Alex fell on the onsight, worked the moves and came down. I blew the flash and opted for a different less strenuous more flexy way of doing the crux. We both did it second go and where soon at the belay of the next pitch. I headed off on lead up the 7b… On the first move I tore a massive hold off the wall! In all honesty, the pitch was a teetering pile of choss! Every hold felt like it was going to snap under the slightest pressure not to mention most of the route involved flaky crack climbing, balancy traverses with scary run outs on suspect rock and disgusting corners with smeary bridging! I DIDN’T COME TO SOUTHERN FRANCE FOR THIS!!! I COULD DO THIS AT HOME OUTSIDE IN RATHO QUARRY!?!?!? Anyway… I sketched my way to the hanging belay around 40m past the 7c. Alex seconded me, he looked almost as terrified as me despite being on top rope – it was comforting to watch him sketch up as well, it solidified in my mind that maybe I’m not as big a punter after all… Well at least not as big as Alex : D

The third pitch was glorious… Gloriously chossy that is! At 6b you get a loose traverse ledge over a tree and round a bush, where every inch stepped you are in fleeting terror of the ledge disappearing below your feet. After the travers of doom, you come to a hideous mantle move onto a slopey shelf, THANK GOD FOR THE MANTLE BOULDER AT RATHO!!! I doubt I’ve ever done a climbing move that made me feel like I’d actually become worse of a climber having performed it… It was the single most retched, disgusting, totally un-elegant move in the world, no one could make it look good! 

After the 6b, it was my turn to lead for the 8a! The prize pitch, surely this couldn’t include more of the same choss as before? Oh wait… What a surprise! I doubt anyone has climbed this route, I don’t think it’s possible for any creature heavier than a slater to weight the rock without the whole collection of grouped sediment sliding of like caked mud! No… This route has never been climbed by a living creature with less than 6 legs and that weighs more than 1/8th of a gram. 

The final two pitches were actually quite good, with decent rock despite muddy pockets on the 7a+ and a horrible funnel of muddy choss and tree infested banking to finish the 7b – not to mention as I reached the top I found that I had to anchor myself on two bushes and lodge myself against a massive rotting tree trunk as the rain came pouring down, drenching us both! Oh I forgot to mention the ton of rock that came loose as I scrambled up the 15m gulley finale of the 8a pitch – that was a pleasant surprise for Alex!

After this experience, Alex and I came to a few conclusions…

1) The guides in Verdon clearly smoke way too much!!!

2) When a guide talks enthusiastically about soloing sandstone off widths amongst perfect bolted limestone, think twice before asking for recommendations! Or at least ask for recommendations so as to avoid all mentioned like the plague!

3) and finally that we think Tom and Pete may have inadvertently pissed of the local french climbers by being way too good at cracks and ticking off all their projects and the locals have then turned their heads towards killing off all British visitors by recommending suitable death trap choss fests!

Can’t deny though it was absolutely hilarious!!!

A re-jogging of the pitches I think is in order also. Here is my opinion:

1) 7c (7c – but hard for the grade)

2) 7b (7b+ – I’ve done easier 7c’s)

3) 6b (CHOSS)

4) 8a (probably 8c now seeing as I tore of all the remaining holds – have you ever attempted to climb a giant sand castle? If not then I recommend this route!)

5) 7a+ (7b+ – I’ve done easier 7c’s)

6) 7b (7c/+ – I’ve done easier 7c+’s, a good example being “Makach Walou” in Ceuse)

After our loss in the choss, Alex and I decided to finish the trip with something a little more down to earth, some nice, healthy single pitch cragging! We evacuated Verdon and headed towards the nearest sport crag we could find. The choices where:

1) Buoux – La Rose et le Vampire (8b)

2) St Leger – Mur de Six Clopes (8b/+)

3) Durby – Some other stuff

In the end, we opted for some steep, single pitch fun in St Leger!!! I must admit, I was very impressed with this crag. I only went to one sector, but the quality of routes I did was very high! Alex and I focussed our attention this time on another classic route, this one called “Mur de Six Clopes” (8b/+). Interestingly, this route is given 8b+ in one guide and 8b/+ in another. On inspection of 8a.nu (the source of all knowledge), most took 8b+ for it. Alex and I both did it pretty quick, both of us on our 4th go I think? I fell on the last move on my second go and then again on my third go! Oh yeah, and technically I had a warm up to the 3rd clip on my 4th actual time on the route, but lowered and then did it to the top from then. Alex beat me to the send on his attempt just before mine (cheeky bugger) – pay back for “Tom et je ris” I think? Our thoughts on the route where that it felt like a standard 8b, not harder, not easier. 

The next climbing day I did another classic 8b in the area called “Abregnief”. This is the popular 8b to do. It comprises of 5m of f5 climbing on a slab to a ledge, then 15m of non-stop power endurance climbing to a juggy rest and a f6c to the top. This was a really good route and man I would love to have this back home, it would be the perfect circuit! It was definitely a soft touch for 8b but not worthy of 8a+ as I’ve heard being mentioned by a few on the web. This was my 17th 8b in the last year, I feel I really have the 8b’s down to a tea now. This was my goal at the beginning of the year, to consolidate climbing 8b’s in every style… I think I’ve achieved this now : P

Alex continued on his run of good form after “Mur de six Clopes” by ticking a hard 8b in the same cave also! I opted for more mileage and did an 8a, 7c+ and a 7b+ on our last day (also got spanked on a 7c+ which I think is 9a). 

So after 2 and a bit days driving, 3 trains, one drunk and several slightly deranged Neds on the carriage and one final car journey from the station, I am now home, tucked up in bed, sipping a nice warm cup of green tea and dreading the train im getting tomorrow to Kendal for route setting (man! I hate public transport!). I am looking forward however to unleashing my creativity on the awesome new Walls at “The Lakeland Climbing Centre” of which I have yet to see fully built. If anyone is up for it, pop down over the next couple of days and say hi, I’ll be keen to go over the new routes I’ve set on the Walls! Maybe I can convince them to let me set a mega tufa creation in memory of “Tom et je ris”?

So that’s that, I have a month until Kalymnos more or less, im gonna be putting in the hours training at A2 and EICA: Ratho over the coming weeks and am keen as ever to push it out there for the next level! 

8c here I come!!!

PSYCHED

ROBZ OUT!!!

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Kendal Wall: New Circuits + Routes
Post by: comPiler on September 28, 2011, 07:00:14 pm
Kendal Wall: New Circuits + Routes (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1253)
28 September 2011, 1:43 pm

Only a day after I am back from France and I’m rushed straight into another job : P A fun one though and I was super psyched for it! I’ve been down in Kendal for the past couple of days route setting for the new and improved Lakeland Climbing Centre (AKA Kendal Wall).

Kendal Wall has to be one of my all time favorite climbing centres. The sheer size of it allows for any climber no matter what level to enjoy themselves, theres now epic amounts of bouldering thanks to the new build just completed and they have some crazy high walls up to 24.5m! Tom Hull (Head Route Setter) has been working hard to get the new additions to the centre open as soon as possible, so he drafted in myself and James Garden to set some new routes on the old main wall and to add new circuits to the brand new bouldering wall. They have certainly made use of the space available, its an excellent new facility offering all kinds of possibilities for setting, James and I had a great time creating crazy problems on them for all you keen bean Lakes climbers to get your hands on : )

As well as new circuits, a special addition to the new bouldering wall is the new “Routing Roof”. For those that dont know what that is, its basically a 10-15m long board with a rising mat below it meaning theres no need for ropes! Its super steep at around 70 degrees i reckon and not only are there some awesome routes set on it up to 7b, but also, the circuit board situated right next to it has some awesome circuits graded up to 7c (soon to be an 8a/b) that can be linked easily into the routing roof creating potentially the best endurance training board i’ve ever seen! I set a figure of eight circuit graded at around f6b+ (30 moves) and if you link that into the easiest line on the routing roof, i reckon you’ll get a nice 6c+/7a at 60+ moves!!! Also, the way I designed all my  circuits and routes on the routing roof, they can be climbed in any direction, meaning unlimited potential for endurance training!

Down stairs in the main arena, I’ve set four new routes between f6b and f8a+. The 8a+ i did climb at the end of the day when i was nackered so if its way easier i apologise, i’m basically a big fat weakling at the moment (too many pain au chocolats in France). I am particularly happy with my Blue 6c, a true piece of roof genius : P

ENJOY!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Coaching, Climbing, Comps + Crack!!!
Post by: comPiler on October 06, 2011, 01:00:17 am
Coaching, Climbing, Comps + Crack!!! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1256)
5 October 2011, 9:46 pm

Coaching GCRS: Aberdeen Rock Stars!

The weekend has been a busy one. I’ve been coaching both days and have managed to squeeze in a bit of climbing alongside. Since I’ve been back from France I’ve been trying my best to get back into a steady training routine, however it’s always hard balancing work alongside training. It’s easier for me since I’m working at the wall anyway, but still, it can be hard fitting all the training into the rest of the day. 

On Saturday I got up early and headed to Ratho for 08:00. My first BRYCS club of the new season was on today and I was meeting up with Andrew and Stewart Robertson later in the day (two local climbers i coached down in Yorkshire). BRYCS club doesn’t start until 10:00, so getting in early gives me plenty of time for a cheeky strength training session. I am so psyched to get back into my strength training routine, I’ve missed feeling strong and fed up feeling “just fit”! 

The beastmaker on it’s hanging pedestal in the Ratho arena appeared to welcome me like an old friend…

This was only my second strength session since I got back, it felt ok if I’m honest… Not as bad as I was coming back from Ceuse, but nowhere near as good as I was before Malham. I did 8 x sets of full crimp and 3 finger open hand max deadhangs, accompanied with sets of raised L-Hang reps and hanging L-Body twists. It doesn’t sound like much but it felt a lot after my warm up and short bouldering session.

A rather annoying occurrence over the last week is that my skin has decided to contract it’s own strain of Zombie mutation! All my skin is peeling off : ( I think it’s caused by a mixture of unfortunately humid conditions and an excess use of antihydral two weeks previously. It feels horrible, when I crimp up on small holds, I can actually feel my skin rolling off the pads!

Disregarding my skin complaints, after my short training session, I took the first session of BRYCS with Pamela and Buz. It was great to be back and even better to see how the kids have improved in my absence. Everyone of them are looking strong on the walls including one boy in particular (Matthew) who smashed his personal bests on the day by on sighting 6b+, 6c and coming close to 7a at only 9 years old! BEAST!!!

After coaching BRYCS, I did a bit of training myself. I figured that I better get on and do some proper training for BLCC’s in 2 weeks time, so a power endurance session was on the cards. It’s funny how you can feel strong for climbing outdoors but weak at indoors, they are just so different! I think for outdoor sport (Redpointing), it helps to have strong fingers and a good base endurance level. For indoors and comps, I reckon power endurance, power and strength are the most important and you can’t get away without them! For outdoor on sighting I guess good power endurance also is a necessity, probably the reason why I have been lacking in the onsight department of late, because of my abysmal power endurance (man if only I had Ed Hamers power endurance – his fingers would be nice too). I must admit, I was a little hesitant to enter the BLCC’s this year… If I’m honest with myself, it’s because I’m scared… Terrified even! This is worse than the fear from climbing “Tom et je ris”, that was rational fear and I can deal with that, but comp fear, well, that is something entirely different, ego enters the equation now…

With under 2 weeks left I’ve not got enough time to get really fit for it, but I’m not bothered by that too much, it will be interesting to see how my outdoor fitness fares in a comp : P besides, I will be travelling to Kalymnos the day after so I can’t complain. 

On Saturday night I travelled through to Aberdeen with Euan And Rory Cargill who where very generous in giving me a place for the night (thanks guys). On Sunday I was coaching the GCRS (Granite City Rock Stars), four groups of kids split into ability levels. This session was the first of 6, the aim of which is to help the kids prepare for YCS comps and get a better grounding in climbing technique and training. On top of this, I am also doing 1:1 sessions with several of them. I was pleasantly surprised by the high level of these kids, very impressive. Having not had much to do with the club before, I wasnt sure of the standard. Now having spent the first day bouldering, learning each of the kids techniques, strengths and weaknesses, i feel I have a good understanding of all the individuals now and am motivated to help them push themselves to the next level! 

The one thing that was evident with the GCRS is the high motivation and sheer psyche of all the kids involved… The quality I prize higher than any other and they all had heaps of it! Great to see in the next gen of Scottish climbers. 

After a successful day of coaching and seeing some inspirational talent I headed back through to Edinburgh on the train for a days route setting the next day. Unfortunately I didn’t get back until midnight and after driving home and having dinner, didn’t get to sleep until 1:30am. Knocking aside the 8hour rule, I woke up at 6:30 for my morning training session before work.  A keen campus board session in the early hours is a favourite activity of mine – no distractions, no other climbers, just me, my music, the stop watch and the 9 wooden rungs – what more could I ask for?!?! I’m beginning to feel strength returning even if it is just recruitment – I love the feeling of not finding 146 “the end of the world”!

After training, i got stuck into setting! I set a couple of sweet new routes at 6c and 6c+, perfect for endurance training. I also set up the 45 board with a few new problems ideal for circuits. Since the setting, I’ve tested them out and found them to be perfect, ideal for circuits and act as quality problems also. My current circuits up and down that board weigh in at around 8b+ I think and have been good for comp training these past few days. The circuits on the board basically link V7′s together whilst down climbing V5′s. There’s no real rest on any of them and the cruxes are always the last few moves, I can tell you that it’s frustrating falling at the last move of them over and over again, but in a way, it’s great because it means I’m pushing it to the limit!

I’m psyched oot my mind for next years trips and I’m going tom push it harder than ever to make my goals! I want 8c to feel easy, to be something I can tick quickly and not have to project… 9a is the ultimate goal in the next few years but I want to get there solidly having banked lots of 8c’s and 8c+’s beforehand. I know I can do this, it’s all in the mind whether or not you push yourself enough to succeed and whether your clever enough in the way you train not to get injured. I know I can pull it off and I’m psyched more than ever to push myself to the brink to see my goals accomplished!

First Scottish sport trip of the year is on Monday also, heading to Orchestra cave to check oot “Dangleberries” (8a+) with my main man Phil Jack whose gonna try the 7c+ start. 

Bring it on!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: East Side Innit Blood!?!?
Post by: comPiler on October 12, 2011, 01:00:27 am
East Side Innit Blood!?!? (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1259)
11 October 2011, 9:46 pm

Another week goes by and I’m back on the east coast city of Aberdeen. This weekends work involved 1:1 sessions with four talented up and coming crushers at Transition Extreme (Aberdeen Wall) and a circuit building/setting session with one of my coaching clients and friend, Phil Jack. I also snuck in a cheeky session at Orchestra Cave with Phil on the Monday. 

This week despite the weekend has been fairly busy… I’ve had some work at Ratho, a Ceilidh, a night out with two of my best friends (Geek and Buz) and a heck of a lot of training! I’ve been training so much recently, I’m feeling pretty strong at the moment especially on the circuits! The circuits I set at Ratho have just been getting harder as the week goes on e.g. One of them started as:

V7->V5->V6

And has since turned into:

V8->V5->V7->V5->V6->V5

I think this bad boy might be 8c? The others are at least 8b or 8b+. I’ve also been hitting the Beastmaker pretty hard and making good progress on max hangs. My one Armers skills are also getting better, I’ve been aiming for max 3 Armers and I’m hitting that with only 6kg off when I’m fresh : )

Anyway, the 1:1 sessions I’ve just started went really well! I’m coaching five young beasts from Aberdeen, four of which I had on Sunday – Rosie, Ben, Rory and Sam (Thomas couldn’t make it as he’s in Font – fare enough : P). 

I had all of the kids last week as part of a separate group session with “Granite City Rock Stars” club. It was better to have these 1:1 sessions with them though as I learned far more about them as individuals and can better provide for them coaching help and additional training advice. Thanks again to the Cargill family for keeping me for the second time running in a week! 

On the Sunday night I got to check out my mate Phil’s new training board in his garage. The job for Sunday night was to re-set this for circuits and bouldering training (more so for circuits). As Phil works mostly off-shore, it is absolutely imperative that his training whilst at home is perfect! He needs the best circuits and problems to train on and shouldn’t have to worry that they aren’t good enough or not doing the right thing. We spoke a lot about training that weekend (i never get tired of it) and between chats I set up Phils board (40 degrees) up. On Monday evening we had a session on it, building the perfect problems for reps, circuits and strength/power training. I even added my own project problem for when I return next time so I can gauge my own progress : P a cheeky V9/10 maybe? I could do it in two halves after a days climbing at Orchestra Cave and the circuit building session, so next time we will see if I can actually finish it!

On the Monday afternoon, we headed to the famed East coast sport crag… Orchestra cave! I’ve been psyched to go here for a while, a brief chat with  one of Orchestra Caves main bolters (Tim Rankin) last week settled it for me. We abbed into the cave after a bit of difficulty finding the damn place : P I stupidly didn’t clip the static line into the quickdraws on the way down and found myself a good few metres short of the ledge and only metres above the raging sea! I had to jumar back out and correct my error, oh well, it was at least a good warm up. Eyeing up the crag, there was a few obvious lines bolted, a chalked up face on fat sloper jugs and edges going through very steep terrain (Crescendo 8a+ – Tim Rankin’s recent FA), another blocky granite overhang (Blobstopper? 8a or 7c+?) and a cool looking arête which is apparently around 7c+ yet awaits an ascent. I was really keen for the mega 8a+ that tops out the crag “Dangleberries”, however was unsure of which one it was. It definitely wasn’t the most obvious line and certainly wasn’t chalked up at all, in fact, it almost looked slightly wet if I was correct in assuming the line it took… I had a look up at the awesome looking “Crescendo” (8a+) that Tim had recently crushed – chalked up and looking real good I felt I had to have a burn. I went for the Flash (having seen a video of Tim on it already) – Upon first pulling on the holds it felt really greasy, the problem with Orchestra Cave apparently. Despite this, I went for it and managed to pull myself up through the first crux. I tried to get a rest higher up but the jug was damp and just made my hands more greasy, instead I pressed on into the meat of the route, some filthy crimps before a big move to a jug. I got here not really knowing what to do and greasing off everything just decided to take (punter!). I worked out the moves and climbed it to the top from there. I lowered some more and ran over the sequences a bit before returning back to the ground to rest. The climb itself is very nice – it has a very basic sequence and suits a strong board climber who likes circuits (lucky me). On my second go I decided not to bother resting and just went straight through the two cruxes pretending I was on one of my circuits back home (resting is cheating of course). Turns out that bad tactics such as not resting works on greasy, scottish sport climbs. 

This was my first 8a+ in Scotland, interesting as I’ve climbed a lot harder everywhere else : P  In all honesty, it felt fine when I climbed it… I wasn’t pumped or remotely tired and felt as though I could have gone for the crux at least one more time before the easier ground. As I’m not acquainted on this rock type and have basically zilch experience with the local area I can’t really judge grades. I know that I’ve done a lot harder 8a+’s, but I’ve also done easier ones. It probably is 8a+, but it needs more ascents to confirm, especially from the locals who know the local grading. An awesome climb in a stunning cave that has to be the best sport crag I’ve visited in Scotland so far (not a lot to choose from though). I recommend this route for every keen Scottish sport climber and especially for those wanting a power endurance 8a+ that might be a bit greasy, but no doubt is quality three stars : P

I’m currently travelling in the train on my way home, psyched for another week of training that will take me ever closer to my dreams of 9a!

PSYCHED!!!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: BLCC’s – Competitor/Coach
Post by: comPiler on October 21, 2011, 01:00:29 am
BLCC’s – Competitor/Coach (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1263)
20 October 2011, 10:39 pm

A bit late in writing a report on it as nearly every other UK climbing website has done so already, but I thought I’d report a bit on my experiences from both a competitor, coach and spectator.

I’ve been competing for quite a number of years now and in the past have found great satisfaction from it. I must admit that over the last two years I haven’t been focussed for competing and have been swaying towards sport climbing outdoors more and more. l train indoors a lot, but it’s with the lingering thoughts of rock that motivates me. I guess it’s just part of getting older, your focusses change as does what motivates you in life.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Nat-Final.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1268)Nat on the final route of the Womans Seniors With the BLCC’s approaching so soon after my trip to Verdon, I was finding myself less psyched to compete and more so to just continue training for Kalymnos later in the month. This was of course my ego getting the better of me here – its easy to dingy off competing for just another stress free days training. If I had done this, it would have been a massive mistake and shown a huge weakness in my own strength of character. Competitions are an amazing way to train your mind to deal with pressure in a number of forms, whether it’s the fear of failing (either against a certain route or competitor) or performing in front of a crowd/peers? Even being forced to warm up properly within a time limit, then climb a route with all the pressure of getting to the top on this one attempt (I’ve had days at the crag like this). Regardless of any training benefit, competitions like this one only come round once a year and I think it’s a shame not to participate – I recommend anyone to enter them as they really are good fun, social events.

Day 1 – “The Coach” (Junior/Veteran BLCC’s)

On the Saturday was the Junior and Veteran Category of the BLCC’s. My two young padawans, Angus (Davidson) and William (Bosi) where competing for the title of Youth C Male Champion. Angus had won last years event and William was second. Both of them are in the form of their lives climbing at a level that I don’t think has been seen in British Climbers at such a young age. William had won the Scottish Bouldering Championships and Scottish Nationals earlier in the year ahead of Angus, but Angus has always had a flare for winning British Nationals, could he keep his track record in tact?

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Angus-and-Robbie.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1266)Me and Angus looking over the qualifiers Both of their training over the past few months has been focussed almost entirely on bouldering – the idea behind this is more to prepare them for internationals next year (their training for that involves lots of different cycles). After seeing them for a session a couple of weeks before the event (after returning from Verdon) it was clear that the training had been paying off. William was going about flashing V7′s at the wall, something he has never been capable of doing before. Not only this, but both of them where tanking the circuits i made for them on the Ratho circuit board – circuits that probably weigh up at around f8a-8a+! 12/13 year olds climbing this hard blows my mind!

It was not a surprise during the comp when both of them walked the qualifying routes. When the final came round, William climbed phenomenally, outperforming all previous competitors by a massive margin and failing only slapping for the last hold to clip the chain from! Angus was last up – with an equally impressive performance as William before him, he tore his way up through the final route (f7c+)! Eyeing up the final sequence from the last rest, i could sense Angus’s determination and will to succeed on this – he blasted on through the final crux, snatched the same final hold that William had failed to make the move from, pulled hard and latched the final hold! He clipped and it was over… Angus was once again the unbeaten British Youth C Champion!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Triumphant.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1267)Angus Wins!!! It’s great to see hard training and motivation pay off for Angus and William, but it was also evident from watching young Jim Pope that he’s someone we need to watch out for : ) Jim was looking stronger than I’ve ever seen before and I’m guessing that that’s not from just popping into the wall a few days a week. He looks like he’s been training hard this last year and I’m eager to see his continued progression in next years comps. It’s great to have a strong field of young climbers in each category, it certainly keeps everyone on their feet (or should i say fingers?).

Day 2 “The Competitor/Spectator” (Senior Lead and Senior/Junior Speed)

It was my time to compete now! Two years since my last lead event, it was great to be back in the competitive arena, I can’t deny though I was nervous… After seeing the demonstration, I found out I was second up after Ross Kirkland. Ross fought hard on the climb, sustaining his efforts all the way into the start of the final section (the roof) before he fell.

I hadn’t had much to go on for the roof sequence as I had only seen the demonstration by Gary Vincent. On my attempt I managed to climb into the roof fairly easily. As I climbed through it I remember placing my foot on an odd part of the handhold shared with my left hand that I had seen Gary emulate on the demonstration. As I pulled through the next move my foot popped and I was hanging on with one hand, the next moment I was off! I was disappointed with this as I know I could have topped it if only I had gone with gut instinct instead of replicating the demonstration, but that’s just another side to competing I guess. This set me back quite a bit as around 6 other competitors topped the route and at least one got further than me, others on the same hold.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Jim-+-William.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1269)Jim Pope and William looking over the final route just out from isolaton The second route was Neil Mcgeachy’s creation. A lot of the competition dreaded this as it looked (from the ground) like utter filth! After watching Geek demonstrate the route, most where of the opinion that it was going to be a technical nightmare but in actual fact, I thought the route climbed really well and wasn’t actually that hard. I felt that I had loads left, I wasn’t remotely pumped or tired upon reaching the section many had peeled of. I pinched the large sloping hold by the arête and attempted to cross through into the good pocket, nothing happened, the pinch was so greasy, It was practically wet – I just couldn’t hold onto it. I touched the next hand hold to confirm to judges that I get the points for holding it despite having it with the wrong hand. I then re-adjusted my hands, still fresh as daisy, and attempted to cross through… It was over in a heartbeat… My hand greased off the pinch on the cross through and there was nothing I could do about it… This was such a disappointing climb for me as I felt way too good to be falling. After coming off I looked up and noticed a foothold round the corner that I could have potentially lanked my way to, but until I get back on it, I won’t know for sure.

In the end of the day, I placed 8th overall. The most important thing for me was beating Eddie Barbour (9th), my main goal for the day – with that accomplished, I was happy : P

The finals where great to watch! The final route was set by Neill Busby and Gary Vincent and weighed in at a healthy f8b. All the competitors fought hard on it. It was noticeable at the beginning a rather reachy move that caught out the two smallest competitors, Jonathan Stocking and Nick Moulden. After that, the route seemed to even itself out becoming a lot more sustained. James Garden climbed well until he failed to hold a sideways dyno, Luke Tilley managed to hang it gaining him 3rd place. The shocker was when Ed Hamer totally missed a hold around the arête which would have settled him nicely for a fight for 1st place if he had but noticed it. Which left Dave Barrans with a dominating performance in 1st place, the new British Champion!

Speed Climbing!

Well… I was forced to compete in this against my will : P I have never had any inclination to partake in the speed, in all honesty, I think it’s a bit crap. However I must admit that I’m glad I participated (thanks Ryan for convincing me), it was good fun if only a novelty event. At Ratho we have a proper dedicated speed wall and there is a good number of the kids such as Rachel Carr, Callum Forsyth and Alex Bosi that do train on the wall regularly , eager to beat personal bests as well as unofficial centre records. The only time before the comp that I had climbed the speed wall was about a year ago when I did 3 second locks on it in a mock comp event… It goes without saying that my time wasnt very impressive. Calum and Alex had earlier in the week made an impressive 14 seconds, but I was eager to see how they would transfer their times outside the event to their performance on the day.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Dave-Barrans-cruising.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1270)Dave Barrans dominates the final Well… Alex was probably the most impressive Junior I saw on the day, breaking his old record at 14.something-high to 14.something-low. He won male juniors of course. As did Rachel Carr in the female juniors with very quick times

In the senior event I didnt expect to do very well, however was pleasantly surprised when I nabbed a cheeky 4th place overall! By the time I was competing for 3rd place with Dave Barrans I was mentally and physically destroyed, despite beating Dave on previous runs of the speed comp I was obliterated by him in the knockout : P

The best part of the comp though was watching Calum and Jonny (Stocking) head to head for 1st. Calum missed out narrowly with a time of 15s against Jonny’s new GB record of 13s!

All in all the weekend was a great success. Everyone had a lot of fun, there where no tears (although maybe a small one from Nick Moulden when he realised he would have to jump to catch the first hold on our second qualifier) and Scotland contributed a large number of podium places to the rankings – well done everybody!

Im currently on a plane flying to Amsterdam from which I will be hitting another to Athens, then again to Kos and then a ferry to Kalymnos!!!

PSYCHED!!!

ROBZ OUT!!!

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Kalymnos: Coaching Week 1 and some climbing
Post by: comPiler on October 31, 2011, 06:00:30 pm
Kalymnos: Coaching Week 1 and some climbing (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1280)
31 October 2011, 3:35 pm

Hey Guys!

I haven’t updated the blog since arriving for a a few reasons:  1) I’ve been so busy working! 2) I’ve been having too much fun : P  It was am epic adventure first of all to actually get to Kalymnos. My flights where delayed by two days meaning an extra wee while at home waiting around. When my flights scheduled for departure finally came through, I had to make three connecting flights just to get to Kos (from which I had to take two taxis and a ferry to reach my final destination). I then spent the good part of three hours scouring the main town of Massouri for a place to sleep since the apartments run by one Nikki Pizania (remember that name) sent me this email after having booked the accommodation and flights the week before:

“HELLO AGAIN! WE DON HAVE FREE ROOMS ANY LONGER, BYE!”

This is after booking the room and the flights literally the day before I left to travel – not very good…  Anyway, onto bigger and better things – I am now coaching on the island and have been for the last week. I am working beside two of the top coaches in the country, Simon Rawlinson (Welsh Team Coach) and Adrien Berry (Avid Kalymnos Bolter and UK renowned coach and author). It’s been a great experience working beside these guys and seeing how they both work as individual coaches. Every coach has his or her own ideas on what works best, it’s been educational to say the least chatting about climbing/coaching/training with these two.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Telendos.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1285)Telendos: The neighbouring island of Kalymnos - Lots of climbing here too Also, just flown in from the UK, the big cheese himself, Neil Gresham has just arrived. He’s super keen to take me to a new crag he’s developed on the island that apparently has some of the best lines Kalymnos has to offer. I’m eager to get the second ascent of his new 8b there through which I can hopefully help in confirming the grade.

The coaching i have been doing over the last week has solely been involved with a nice Welsh couple, Jackie and Sam. It’s been great to just focus on them for the week, they’ve had a wondeful time out here and have definitely improved a lot in the short time. We’ve worked hard and identified key weaknesses in their climbing – this they have taken on board and through the help of myself and a training program I will be building for when they get home, they should hopefully weed these out and improve more consistently over the next year.   Jackie’s hardest climb before the trip was 6a+ – on this trip she has onsighted 6a+ as well as numerous 6a’s and has been looking strong on 6b’s and even a 6c she got on. Sam on the other hand, his personal best before the trip was 6c (after a couple of days redpoint). This trip he has succesfully red pointed two 6c’s 2nd go as well as on sighting many 6a’s and 6a+’s, even coming close on a few 6b’s.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/sam+jackie-route-read.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1286)Sam and Jackie Route Reading Me on the other hand, I have not had much climbing. One day at the beginning and the occasional cheeky belay at the end of the day. Even so, I’ve managed to sneak in a couple of hard routes despite a lack of climbing for myself. The first day I had a look at the classic crimpy test piece of Kalymnos, “Nadir” (8b+). The crux is pretty heinous climbing on micro edges and undercuts, the moves themselves weighing in at around V6 probably. Until the crux it’s probably only f7a+ and theirs a really good rest before the crux, but the holds are just so damn small and sharp that you really only have a couple of good goes in you. After the crux, you have a very sustained section of climbing that on it’s own would probably be a bouldery f7b. Because of the sustained nature of the crux and final section, it definitely feels 8b+, maybe a tiny bit soft but it’s also not my style so maybe I’m just weak : P  After one of my coaching days with Sam and Jackie, I had a a play on the famous 8b+, “O’Draconian Devil” as seen on King Lines with Sharma and JB Tribout. I had had a go on it a years previous but hadn’t even bothered to go to the top as the crux was too hard for me then (also I had no idea what I was doing). On my first go with Sam and Jackie, I still had no idea, however I managed to climb into the crux from the ground first time which was definitely a good sign. A day later and after watching the Welsh crimp machine Ash Wolsey-Heard on a video, I returned to the devil to try out some proper beta. Amazingly after using the beta, the crux actually felt easy as opposed to impossible.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/sam-6a.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1287)Sam warming up on a 6a The next day, I headed up to the crag for a shot at it whilst Sam and Jackie had a rest day. Hopefully with a session of dedicated practice on the route I could maybe tick it that day? Low and behold, I nabbed a belay of my Irish friend John and sent it first go! It actually felt easy – see below for a video of both me and Ash climbing it.

After climbing “O’Draconian Devil”, we headed to another sector called Kalydna. It was here that I came face to face with my next big route, “Trous dans l’air” (8b+). I had heard that it used to be graded 8c which initially scared me, however, after trying it only once I felt it was well within my limit and could in fact be another quick tick. In the guide the route is described as being a 7c+ into another 7c+ into a F7B+ boulder right at the top! In reality, the route is probably a soft 8a into a F6C. It felt easier than 8b’s I’ve done in the past and is probably the softest 8b+ I’ve done, but I was still super psyched to tick it on my 3rd go (almost 2nd go!).   Now that the coaching is over, I can concentrate more on my own climbing. Im psyched to go finish of “Nadir” (8b+), that would bring my year total of 8b+’s to 9, a nice consolidation number if you ask me and then maybe I can buckle down to trying an 8c? Today i tried one called “Lucky Luca” in Odyssey Sector. It’s an awesome line, quite steep, but has a sick move which involves a very powerful move off a single pad mono with smears for feet on the steepest section of the climb. As much as I’m psyched to do it, i do find myself tempted to do easier routes instead, however, I am going to give it a chance, at least as a side option whilst trying “Nadir” (as they are right next to each other).

The annoying thing with Kalymnos is once you get to 8b+/c, all then routes seem to disappear. There is very little in this grade range, in fact, 8c+ is a better grade if you ask me, they seem more inspiring lines and probably more suited to my style of climbing. All the 8c’s are horrible boulder problems which scare me lots : P I need to go home an train methinks!

What I am psyched about this trip though is just how easy 8b+ has felt to the relative difficulty 8b’s were feeling last year. This is definitely a step in the right direction and I’m thinking of hopefully stepping my Kalymnos grade up a notch next October as well when I return with Simon for our next Kalymnos Coaching trips. There are two 8c+ on the island that inspire me massively, Nico Favresse’s “Inshallah” and the crimpy gnarl fest “Guta Gutarak”. I think I’m going to have to really step it up a notch to achieve this, but im not looking down anytime soon, there’s only one way, and it’s up!

ROBZ OUT!!!

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Kalymnos: “Nadir” (8b+)
Post by: comPiler on November 04, 2011, 12:01:23 am
Kalymnos: “Nadir” (8b+) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1296)
3 November 2011, 6:59 pm

Hey guys

I’m still out here in Kalymnos, now enjoying climbing for myself as opposed to coaching. Don’t get me wrong, I love coaching, but its also good to have a lie in in the morning and head up to the crag with no pressures or responsibilities (other than project pressure of course). If you read my last blog post, I mentioned that I had tried a route called “Nadir” on the first day of the trip. Well, I hadn’t been back since then and because my draws where in it still as well as being one of the last remaining f8b-8b+ routes I haven’t done on the island, I figured I might as well return to finish it off.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/simon-7b+.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1299)Simon Rawlinson crushing a 7b+ in Kalymnos “Nadir” consists of a sustained f7a+/b start to a good rest before the crux. This section doesn’t add much to the route as a whole, it doesn’t get you pumped at least and with the rest, even if it did get you a little pumped you’d recover quite easily, however, what it does do is build up nerves and anticipation of the crux as you approach ever closer. The crux is a gnarly fingery boulder problem, probably weighing in at around V5/6 (F6C/+)? This is how it felt for me anyway, it’s definitely one of these problems that if you had it on the ground you wouldn’t want to go repeating it regularly, which makes Redpointing this route a bit grim. The holds through the crux are all at best, flat half pad crimps and the two worst holds being a sloping non-hold you use as an intermediate and a razor blade disc you crimp the hell out of to get to the good holds.

Once through the crux, your into an ok rest on some slopey pinches before a very sustained section of f7b+ climbing until a tufa knee bar rest. To the top from there it’s not over, there is still a slightly awkward finish, not hard really but a little dodgy when you’ve just climbed through some very techy/filthy terrain that you don’t want to have to repeat.

Yesterday, I had two blasts on the route… The first failing at the crux move once again (the same move I fell on my onsight burn and all the goes previously). I then discovered something amazing, so subtle and seemingly pointless that made the crux move so easy it would not have taken another try to do after employing it. All I had to do was drop my pinky of the undercut crimp and simply use three fingers for a stronger front 3 full crimp… Sounds like it would make little change, however, it made all the difference in the world! Not only was I now doing the crux solidly every time, I could practically chalk and blow on the move! Psyched on my progress, I did it from below the crux to the top just to further build my confidence and on my next go (7th overall), I ticked it! YAAASSSSSSS!!! “Nadir” has now been added to my tick list as my 9th 8b+ this year.

Today I headed to the crag with a couple of new friends of mine, Lee and Sam Cujes. Lee and Sam are from Queensland, Australia. Lee is also a climbing coach and has been coaching out here for the last two weeks, check out his website and blog here (http://www.upskillclimbing.com/). We headed up to Iannis sector so that Lee could try “O’Draconian Devil” (8b+) and so that I could try the 8c in the left-hand sector of Kalydna called “Fake Friends”. Lee had been on “O’Draconian Devil” on his trip last year and had been very close but with no cigar. Sam and I egged him to get back on it and from what i saw today, I think he could definitely finish it off before heading back to Oz. Check out a video of Lee and Sam coaching trip below – theres also a guest appearance of me on “O’Draconian Devil” : P

Upskill Kaly 2.0 (http://vimeo.com/31449931) from Upskill Climbing (http://vimeo.com/upskillclimbing) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).

Meanhwile, I had a bash on the 8c “Fake Friends” around the corner. On my first go I dogged it more or less just to figure out the sequence. The final crux through the bulge at the top was hard but not desperate, maybe V4-ish at the end of a very sustained sequence 33m from the ground. The hardest moves are lower, after a shortish f7c section you do a

bouldery sequence, maybe again around V4 but only around 4 moves of it. After this you get a rest on some 2 finger pockets before doing the final sustained sequence before the end crux.

After figuring out what to do I came down and rested for an hour whilst Sam and Lee did a 6c. This gave me time to reflect on my sequence, even giving me some more ideas for the lower crux (I hadn’t quite got that dialled). On my second go I was feeling really good, despite being my third day on I was fairly fresh and was flowing through the lower sequence. I made my way to the rest before the first crux and eyed it up from the steep knee bar… I gathered my beta from the ground that I had thought through and employed it, this seemed to work well and despite being hard I managed to scrape my way through. Before I knew it I was eyeing up the final run from the last rest… I visualised the sequence in my head as I had remembered from my first go, and off I went! I moved quickly and decisively, I wasn’t really pumped, just quite tired. I was heading into the bulge, I could see the chains… I made the first hard move of the crux, the second, the third… I had done the crux moves and was only two metres from the chain! I saw it but I was tired, I made a bit of a flail for the wrong hold and was soon rushing past each QuickDraw not really knowing what had happened but also enthralled that my first 8c could have been second go!

Well… That’s just it isn’t it… Second go? 8c? It just didn’t add up, the moves felt way too easy, I wasn’t really pumped on it and even by comparison to a route like “Unjustified”, I would say this is easier. The sensation reminded me of what Alan Cassidy had once wrote about after on sighting his first 8b in France. The glory is there, you want it, you can take it, but you know in your heart that it’s not real. Alan took 8a+ for his 8b, and I guess If I do this really amazing route, then perhaps its probably more like a soft touch 8b+? Still a really cool route though! Flying about skipping bolts literally with the ground 40-50m below you (the route starts on a ledge above a cliff, so your already about 20m off the ground when you start).

I will have to decide what to do tomorrow now, either rest or climb again. I’m inclined to do the latter as that will put me in a better state to tick “Fake Friends”, but whether or not I can find someone to belay me on it is something else entirely… I am running out of people to follow me to crazy crags with sky high 8b’s and 8b+’s.

Anyway, I’m sure it will all work out. I’m looking forward to coming home now, I’ve had my time in the sun and it’s time to train hard for Spring. The day I get back I’m going to be heading up to Aberdeen to coach the awesome little dudes from the GCRS climbing team and meet up with my mate Phil Jack to help him re-set his new and improved 45 board and hopefully head back to Orchestra Cave as well, maybe I can sneak a cheeky dangle berry ; P

That’s all for now folks – 8c is still a dream : )

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Kalymnos: Kalydna Sector
Post by: comPiler on November 08, 2011, 12:00:14 pm
Kalymnos: Kalydna Sector (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1310)
8 November 2011, 11:22 am

Hey Guys

So I’ve only got a few days of climbing left before I return to the UK. I can’t say I’m not looking forward to coming home – I’ll be seeing all my family and friends again as well as checking out the awesome new TCA wall in Glasgow : P.

Climbing the last week has been pretty hilarious. I’ve been spending my time mostly at a sector called Kalydna. Here there is a heavier concentration of high f8 routes compared with other sectors and since I’ve exhausted most of the other areas, it makes sense to come here. The interesting thing with Kalydna is the unique style and rock type. When you think of Kalymnos, thoughts of tufas and stalactites come to mind, however in Kalydna it is mostly pockets, edges and Slopers.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Dani-marci-Marc.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1311)My new friend Danny on "Marci Marc" (7c+) The first route I did here called “Trous dans L’air” (8b+) takes one of the steepest lines of the crag. The climbing is varied and sustained for the first half until a burly bulge (the first crux) then an easier section on huge traversing pockets which takes you to the hard crux through the final bulge. It suited my style and felt more like 8b than 8b+, but the climbing was awesome nonetheless.

The second route I did is called “Fake Friends” (8b+). This is a left hand variation on the last route with a more sustained (but not as cruxy) finish. Initially graded 8c (don’t ask me how), this I felt was similar in grade to “Trous dans L’air” but perhaps a little harder with it’s sustained finish.

I also did another route today currently graded 8c called “Keep Going”. The climbing on this was the weirdest climbing I’ve done in Kalymnos. On orangey Australian style rock, it has three distinct cruxes:

1) Bouldery on Pockets

2) Bouldery on Slopers

3) Techy Bridging

The climbing wasn’t that hard, just really sequency and balancy at points. The upper section of the route felt like the climbing on “Zoolook” (8a) at Malham, smeary bridging on edges. Compared to the other routes, the climbing wasn’t as hard physically and it felt more like a soft touch 8b or hard 8a+. Amazingly, this route was confirmed by some really strong climbers as 8c, but I’m now starting to think that they might all have been on 8a.nu crack at the time.

All these routes have had relatively few ascents, so there is still time for the grades to even themselves out. Kalymnos has a massive reputation for soft touches, however, I have found that in general the grading is pretty standard and could be compared with any other European sport crag (even the UK). Just like everywhere you go, there are your soft touches and your sandbags. The former tends to be more popular and that is why you hear about them more often.

The main routes in Kalymnos you always hear about being soft are the ones at the Grande Grotte sector. There are literally around 12 routes in the grotte and they are all mega long stamina pitches on stalactites – grading these is much like grading cracks – an issue that Tom and Pete are dealing with right now in the U.S.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/376307_209833429089004_117295368342811_518565_1920275291_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1312)Me sending "O'Draconian Devil" (8b+) My point is that there are soft routes in Kalymnos, but there are also some sandbags and a lot of quite rightly graded routes, and because there is a lot of new routing being done now, there is also going to be a lot of routes needing confirmed by the masses and not simply slagged for being too soft.

Anyway, I’ve had such an amazing trip this year. I am too lazy to bolt routes, but this is something I am going to have to amend for the future as I’ve simply been a consumer in Kalymnos this far, I guess it would be good to give something back to the island too. Spending time with Neil Gresham, Simon Rawlinson and Lee Cujes this trip has inspired me to take my hand to the drill in the future. These guys have endless enthusiasm for bolting and looking for new lines, it seems they love the adventure of finding a line, cleaning it and bolting it almost as much as the climbing (Freaks!?!?!?).

So I have 2 days climbing left, today I will rest and tomorrow I’ll finish of an 8a+ I put my quick draws on. Hopefully I have one or two climbs left in me before I’m homeward bound, however I’m definitely feeling the exhaustion of the trip setting in now. Psyched for getting home and back into the training regime, winter is coming on fast and there’s only 4 months until Spring/Spain next year : )

See you all soon : D

ROBZ OUT

Robz

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Back Home: Edinburgh -> Aberdeen -> Glasgow
Post by: comPiler on November 19, 2011, 06:01:43 am
Back Home: Edinburgh -> Aberdeen -> Glasgow (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1324)
19 November 2011, 12:14 am

Hey guys

I have finally returned from Kalymnos (Greece) and am back in the motherland of haggis, fish suppers and indoor climbing : P So for those not friends with me on Facebook/Twitter, I missed my flight from Schipol (Amsterdam) airport to Glasgow… What a dunce! I decided that 13 hours in an airport would be better spent watching films than sleeping as I was paranoid about missing my flight… Turns out that a few hours sleep in a 48 hour period isn’t that good for you and drowsiness and a chance of uncontrollably falling asleep are side-effects… Who knew? Long story short, I fell asleep with only an hour to go, half way through Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade (great movie). Despite being asleep in front of the flight gate, the helpful KLM staff didn’t think it necessary to awake the sleeping boy in front of them when a mister Robert Phillips hadn’t shown up to the flight desk… It’s not their fault, I’m an idiot for not setting my alarm, but hey, at least they could have woken me up : P

Anyway, another 2 hours skimming through the wooden clogs outfitter store and I was away back home. As soon as I touched down in Glasgow, I was off to EICA: Ratho (home) to have my first bouldering session in 3 weeks and to meet up with Rory Cargill and his dad Ewan. The Cargills where once again providing a place to stay for the night before my Group coaching sessions with the GCRS crew the following day. I love staying with the Cargills, it’s lots of fun being in a household with loads of kids, they’re always making pancakes in the morning… YUM!

This weeks coaching with the GCRS crew was focussed on helping them get to grips with their first block of training. The first block comprises largely of endurance based training to help them build their fitness before the start of the YCS rounds in January. The larger program is geared towards finals, so those that have made it through will be on top form for then.

At the start of each group we did a short warm up comprising partly of running to an HRT Alien head hold and poking it in the eye then back to the traverse wall and doing a short traverse.  After this, we started training doing some 2×4′s on routes (2 sets of a lap of 4 routes). The aim was to reach a level 3/4 pump (max 85%) on the first route and then sustain it through each consecutive route. It was hard work and some of the kids got the level wrong initially, but by the end, everyone was happy with it (at least I think they where, maybe they where too exhausted to say anything else). After 2×4′s, we did a couple of sets of 3 second locks aiming for level 4/5 (basically max intensity) and then to finish off, a set of stick game circuits aiming again for level 4/5 – they will all sleep for a week : P

The funniest part of the day was when I saw little Max Milnes new t-shirt. In a previous session, we had been giving each other nicknames, Max’s was “Future” on account of how strong he is… His t-shirt was blue with a picture of a ninja monkey on it with “I am the Future” written on it – AWESOME!!!

The end of the day came quicker than expected (coaching these kids is just too much fun). I was picked up at 8pm by Phil Jack, my sole Aberdeen based adult coaching client. A month ago I had set his board up for training, but since then he had acquired lots of new holds and I was up to help him re-set his circuits and boulder problems. We had a really good day on the Monday, a full on session that involved lots of boulder setting and  circuit setting. We made up a good lot of problems between V4 and V7+ for Phil to work on and circuits around the f7b+/c range for him to get fit on. He’ll be cranking out 8a’s in no time at all.

I am now back in Edinburgh, but not relaxing just yet, this last week has been a tiring one. I went to TCA for the first time on Wednesday night with some friends of mine, Ian Paterson, Neil Glover and Neil’s wife Katie Glover. We had an excellent time playing around on the boulders. It wasn’t exactly a training session, more just climbing until failure : P by the end of the session I was destroyed, so much that I’m still feeling it two days later! The last time I was this knackered was after 2 days climbing a 70m hanging belay start 8b+, certainly not at an indoor wall. I must admit, my strategy during the climbing session wasn’t the best, but we all have our little weaknesses, mine is excitement on seeing all the brand new awesome looking boulder problems just waiting to be climbed : P

As I said, after two days I am still exhausted! I haven’t been climbing well at all this week and I must say that I’m looking forward to a bit of rest next week. I still have a weekend of coaching in Ratho (Saturday) and Aberdeen (Sunday) ahead of me, but after that, hopefully I’ll get some rest : )

I’m going to try and get to the TCA twice a week for my bouldering sessions. It’s going to be expensive going through, but I see it as a worthy expense for the world class facility and training benefits I’ll see from it.

Here’s to a winter of dedicated training for Spain…

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Angus Davidson: Sports Aid Awards 2011 Winner
Post by: comPiler on November 29, 2011, 12:00:31 am
Angus Davidson: Sports Aid Awards 2011 Winner (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1330)
28 November 2011, 9:14 pm

Angus Davidson is one of the UK’s top youth climbers. He has been 1st place in the last two British Championships, placed consistently top 10 in U12 International events over the last year and is looking forward to his first year at internationals in the Youth B category in 2012. He has also just won a very prestigious sporting award – The OCS Sports Aid Young Star Award (http://www.ocs.co.uk/OCS-Young-Sports-Person-Awards). For those that don’t know, the award is for up and coming athletes that show amazing talent, dedication and success in their chosen sport. The award isn’t only an honour for the athletes, there is also a grant for the winner to help fund their training and travel for competitions. Angus received £750 from the OCS which is going straight towards next years season of international competitions.

Its also fantastic that climbing has been singled out amongst other more popular and well known sports such as football, rugby and tennis, all of which had representatives in his category for the award. The fact that Angus and his climbing was singled out shows us that competition climbing is being recognised by the wider audience of non-climbers as a serious sport…

One small step for climbing and one giant leap towards the Olympics (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62924)!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/313103_10150489452144439_685129438_10531664_2138433488_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1332)Angus even made the Evening News!

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: TCA Inaugural Bouldering Competition
Post by: comPiler on December 16, 2011, 06:00:45 am
TCA Inaugural Bouldering Competition (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1345)
16 December 2011, 12:39 am

Hey Guys

I haven’t had any real reason to blog the last few weeks, however, last week I attended the TCA Inaugural bouldering competition, an event I had been looking forward to going to since I first heard about it. Since the TCA opened, I have been through at least once a week (after returning from Kalymnos). The centre is absolutely awesome and I’ve been enjoying climbing all the quality steep lines the centre offers. The general style of setting at TCA is different to our EICA setters which provides a unique selling point towards my interest in a training venue. Although there is nothing there much harder than V10 apart from one badass V12, there is always plenty to go at and I have yet to be in a situation where I have done everything and have nothing left to challenge me on the bouldering wall without setting my own problems. It’s definitely much nicer to have problems set by others and I have been greatly enjoying my trips through so far.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/383000_10100101342161660_36916410_46914222_849118346_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1351)Robin was a little too attached to that microphone during the event ; ) Anyway, I travelled through with two young boys I coach in Edinburgh, Sam (10), Leo (7) and their Dad, Fabrice. Sam and Leo where really looking forward to the comp as it was their first trip to TCA. When we arrived, I set about showing Sam and Leo the whole centre and we immediately got to work reading all the problems from No. 1 to No. 20 before they had even registered : P. The most important thing in competitions is getting the right warm up. The boys know their warm up at EICA but TCA was very different, so I took them to the circuit board wall and we discussed what was the best way to warm up before trying any of the problems.

Sam and Leo started the comp earlier than me, so I helped them with a few of their problems until my category (senior men) began. I wanted to wait until I saw the best senior guys arriving so that I could catch a sneaky bit of beta on some of the problems before I went. Roddy Mackenzie and his wife Anna Trybis arrived fairly early on and got warmed up. Soon after, Eddie Barbour arrived with Mike Mullins and Nat. There were a couple of other strong boys knocking around the place, guys like Alli Rob and some lads from Aberdeen. I was watching as everyone arrived and once I was satisfied enough of the strong guys had started, I began also.

It turned out a bit different to how I had imagined it. In most comps you do get to watch others trying the problems, but because everything was flash, there where no repeats after someone had attempted or climbed something, so everything went pretty quickly. In the end, I didn’t actually get any beta on any problems and was actually among the first on most of the harder ones (more out of anticipation and boredom than anything else).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/384559_10100101344866240_36916410_46914287_1161442068_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1350)Scott Keirr, a future bouldering champion looking strong in the Junior Finals I flashed 18/20 problems altogether, mucking up only on one due to my foot getting caught on a different coloured hold as I moved to the final jug (annoying). When that happened, initially I was really annoyed as it was nothing I could have avoided, I certainly felt very cheated out of the problem and was worried that everyone else had done so much better than me.

Amazingly, it turned out that I qualified in first place! Roddy hadn’t made it as far as me on two problems (more due to fitness and a debilitated shoulder than anything else), Eddie had screwed up on some other problems and Ali just dropped one move before me on the hardest problem (No.20). It ended up with me in 1st, Ali in 2nd and Roddy in 3rd.

I couldn’t really believe that I had made it into the finals never mind in first place! Not only that, but I found out soon after that Sam had won his category (Junior Boys) and another boy I now coach, Scott, had qualified in 2nd for the finals! So far, a really successful event, anything that happens afterwards is nothing, I was happy with making the finals.

We all watched in awe at the Junior event as Scott, Fraser (A2 Wad) and Hamish (Bristol Wad) battled out in Junior boys. In the end, Hamish won by two points, Scott in 2nd and Fraser in 3rd. In the Junior girls it was equally impressive as Christie Macleod snatched a 1st, followed closely by EICA regular Megan Saunders and then another girl from Bristol.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/386306_10100101345814340_36916410_46914302_791350690_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1349)Anna almost topped this on her flash attempt failing on the last move missing the crucial heel hook Meanwhile, I started to warm up again for the men’s category. The guys routes looked pretty hard, but we discussed the sequences during viewing time which helped a lot building confidence. It was good discussing with Roddy mainly, I knew since he was a really experienced comp boulderer that he would see most of the tricks. I was convinced the middle problem was flashable, the leftward one looked really hard but do-able and the rightwards one looked solid.

When it was time to climb, I stepped up to try the first problem (left), however, there had been a mix up regarding which climber was on which problem and i had to swap all of a sudden with Ali. This shook me a little as I had been focussing on doing the leftwards one and had to suddenly re-focus on a different one. It didn’t matter anyway, it was the middle one that I had fancied my best chances on so I was quite happy to go do this. I actually had an amazing flash burn, falling just moving to the final hold! This confidence boost set me really well for the rest of the event. I managed to do good on the furthest left problem and not so good on the further right one. Regardless of position on those two, it was the first (middle) problem that made the difference. I took first place overall in the Men’s Senior Category with £75 of Ellis Brigham Vouchers! WHOOOPEEEE!!!

Nat crushed the female seniors in style flashing every problem as if it was her warm up. Anna came in second and Holly Rees in third. Roddy and I joked that it was battle of the couples : P

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/384803_10100101347870220_36916410_46914324_919390477_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1346)Nat cruising to un-desputable victory with 3 tops out of 3 in the Finals±! It was a great comp regardless of me and Nats success and we are both eagerly looking forward to the next one in February. I am training hard at the moment, mainly focussing on the Siurana trip in spring, but most of my training revolves around bouldering anyway which is good prep for the comps also. EICA has just built a new 45 board in the bouldering room and we’ve bought a load of new holds (Moon and Beastmaker) so there’s no excuses for not doing well next time round too : P I’m also getting through to TCA fairly often so I’m getting really familiar with the walls and style of setting.

Psyched!

ROBZ OUT

P.s. All photos courtesy of Will Carroll (http://io-photography.co.uk/). Jen Randall (http://alloureggs.wordpress.com/) also took lots of good shots, so check out her site for them, I just don’t want to pay for them for my blog : P

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/383191_10100101346597770_36916410_46914311_1896001883_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1348)Me doing what I do best, finding a way around pulling hard and skipping all the bad holds : P

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Christmas Break-Down
Post by: comPiler on December 31, 2011, 06:00:13 am
Christmas Break-Down (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1363)
31 December 2011, 1:01 am

Christmas is by far my favourite time of the year. I have a fairly big family in Edinburgh (mothers side) and we always have a big get together at Christmas, with lots of the usual eating, drinking, present opening/giving plus extra eating and drinking. This year however was a bit different however. A part of my family that lives in Nassau (Bahamas) were coming over to spend the holidays in Scotland. This being the case, we all decided to rent a big house in the borders and spend Christmas down there together (a big family needs a big house). We had a great time down there. All my younger cousins where going crazy together (with help from me) and we even had our own game of Murder Mystery (I was the murderer, no one guessed!). As much as it was great fun, the big downside was it was a week of no climbing, not to mention a very difficult situation involving endless trays of food/confectionary flying about in front of my eyes with only my will power to control me (not the best situation to be in for someone one strict diet). I’d like to say I was strong and didn’t resist temptation, I’d like to say that I’m not half a stone heavier than I was on the 23rd of December (my last day in Edinburgh), but if I said that I would be lying…

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Climbing-Santa-283x300.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1364)

One of the hardest things for me over Christmas has been the break of climbing/training. I know it was only a week, but if you’ve trained solidly for a whole year (breaking only for climbing trips), you’d know how I feel. Its really hard practicing what you preach. I tell everyone I coach to rest up when it comes to Christmas and that a week off here and there can be a good thing, but right now it feels like the worst thing I could have done. My body seems to have gone into some sort of hibernation mode and I feel utterly exhausted. It seems that the year has really caught up on me and my body has chosen to simply shut down. Only 7 days ago I achieved something that I had never done before, a personal best in my training over the years, 1-4-7 on the small rungs of the campus board. To many that may seem weak and pitiful, but honestly, to me this is somewhat of a milestone. Now, I feel like doing 1-3-5 is hard enough work never mind even bothering attempting 1-4-7.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Campus-Board-Robbie.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1365)

I know in my mind that this feeling will pass and that my stregnth and power will return (probably in the next few days). Its a natural response to get depressed and talk yourself down when your having an off day/week and it’s something that everyone will experience at sometime or another. The key to this is not giving up and realising that it’s only a short phase that will pass eventually. You have to maintain focus, stay your course and keep following your plan to wherever it will take you.

It’s almost the New Year… 2012! It’s quite scary really, 2011 was a huge year for me, a hard one to beat actually. I have accomplished so much more in 2011 than I ever could have wished for. It is indeed very scary approaching this new year, a lot lies ahead, ambition, anticipation and eagerness for it all to come quick… but I need to be patient (my biggest weakness to date).

ROBZ OUT

Patiently anticipating 2012

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Christmas blues-ing has turned into New Year cruising!!
Post by: comPiler on January 06, 2012, 06:00:11 am
Christmas blues-ing has turned into New Year cruising!! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1375)
6 January 2012, 1:22 am

Hey Guys

I know what a bad title… well its half one and my brain is mush so don’t be too hard on me : )

If you read my last post from just after Christmas you will know that I, like most others, have had a bit of a rude awakening coming back after the holidays. To be frank, I felt like I was dragging a sac of tatties every-time I pulled of the ground. Its funny just how quickly this can all change though. Only a week later and I’m back to my previous best, hitting out 1-4-7 on the campus board (something I had been trying to achieve for a very long time). Not only that, but I seem to be quite consistent at it now which is thrilling seeing as I’m only 6 weeks of my trip to Spain. Comparing last years strength levels to right now, its evident that I’m a lot physically stronger in my fingers and in all-round power. 

This is exactly what I have been training for and its delighting to see the efforts of training pay off with such good results. I have 1 week left of the focussed power block and then I’ll be in power endurance mode!!! I apologise beforehand to the regular Ratho boulderers as I’m going to be spending more time on the 45 board doing circuits – SO YOU ALL BETTER STAY OUT OF MY WAY!!!

As well as training going well, work is also plentiful at the moment. I have taken on three new recruits to my 1:1 squad! First on the list is Amanda Lyons from Aberdeen. Amanda was previously being coached by Mark McGowan, however since he has moved to Espana, she’s now having to put up with my moaning and groaning. Amanda has previously climbed 7c and she is now working her way to 7c+ on some gnarly local projects that sound more like 8b than 7c+!!!

Next up is Ian Phillips. He’s relatively new to climbing but has seen probably the fastest progress out of any climber I’ve ever known. He’s bouldering about V5/6 flash and working V6/7 within a session and he’s been climbing for under 2 years!

Finally, my newest recruit is a member of the BRYCS club at Ratho. I’ve been coaching David for a while now as part of the team but not individually. He’s incredibly talented and has some amazing potential. Over the last 6 months he’s been getting into Ratho more and more with his mum and brother and i’ve been watching intently from the sidelines as i’ve seen him go from strength to strength. Now I get to take an active part in helping his development more than simply our weekly group sessions – I WILL MAKE HIM A BEAST!!!!!

Tomorrow I am going to Glasgow for some TCA action, unfortunately not my own : ( Instead, 13 of the top Scottish youth climbers will descend for the first MCofS GB Team Meet of 2012! This also marks my official entry into the position of Team Regional Coach and Scottish Team Coach (theres a really long-winded and cooler title but i forgot it – I’ll settle for “Robbie the Awesome, King of the Beasts”).

Saturday I am away coaching the super mutants in Aberdeen and Sunday I will be doing my CWA Assessment with my mate Euan Whittaker. I’ve heard he’s really tough on the assessment though : ( I’m scared…

So psyched for Spain now, its getting closer and closer and I’m starting to get nervous. Its a similar feeling to  the build up for a comp… PRESSURE!!!! It doesn’t matter though, I know I’ll climb well if I just go and give it my all like I always do. This time round its going to be even better because my mate Andy is coming. Me and Andy have been on loads of trips together and we always end up falling out and hating each other for half the trip… this probably won’t be any different : ) PSYCHED!

KEEP IT REAL FOLKS

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: willackers on January 06, 2012, 06:46:05 am
What about "Robbie the Choad, King of the Choads" sounds much better.
Title: MCofS: GB Team Training Event No.1 – Boulder Training @ TCA
Post by: comPiler on January 09, 2012, 12:00:18 am
MCofS: GB Team Training Event No.1 – Boulder Training @ TCA (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1378)
8 January 2012, 7:39 pm

06/01/12

Hey Guys

If you read my last blog post, you will know that today was a big day for me. It was the first MCofS British Team Event I have run and was the official beginning as such of my becoming the new Team Coach in Scotland. I am basically filling the exceedingly large boots (metaphorically speaking of course) of Mr McGeek. Today felt like kind of a test really, in theory this is something I should be able to handle, but despite this I was still nervous.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1383)Rory climbing up the wall @ the TCA I was working alongside one of my best friends, Neill Busby (Senior Instructor at EICA) which certainly made things easier. We had 13 kids altogether, all of whom are at a standard not far off National Team Status. To get a picture of the level we are talking about, the lower end younger girls and boys are operating in the 6c/7a onsight region whilst in the upper end we have potential 8a onsighters and V10 boulderers.

In the end, the day ran as smoothly as I could have hoped for. All the kids (as well as me and Buz) had a great time and learned loads. TCA was an excellent venue for the event and I am very happy that they allowed us the use of the centre, definitely going to be back for future events.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/MAX-TCA3.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1382)Max "The Future" Milne doing what he does best! The next event is February 11th with myself and Buz taking the kids down to Northumberland bouldering. If we don’t get outdoors we were thinking of crashing in on Climb Newcastle.

I am currently lying in bed running over plans for tomorrows 1:1 sessions in Aberdeen and slowly sinking deeper into regret about booking my CWA assessment for Sunday… AGHHHHHH!!! I really should have prepared more : P

ROBZ OUT

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/THE-TEAM.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1381)The whole crew on the day

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Evolv Shamans
Post by: comPiler on January 10, 2012, 06:00:09 pm
Evolv Shamans (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1391)
10 January 2012, 3:40 pm

Yo Guys

I’ve been sponsored by Evolv since I was 17, thats almost 5 years now! I have tested shoes across the wide range of different companies from 5.10 and Scarpa to MadRock, La Sportiva and Red Chilli. I’ve climbed on rock and on plastic with probably every companies current blast at performance rock shoes and what do I have to say for it? This shoes better than that one? Their rubbers crap or their shoes don’t fit? In all honesty, I can’t really say anything like that for the most. I know that I don’t personally like the MadRock or Boreal Series for a few different reasons, but I can’t say that Scarpa or 5.10 have never done me wrong when I’ve tested out one of their fine pieces of performance shoe wear (as long as I’ve had my trusty Evolv’s as back ups of course ; P )

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/71642_465383257072_655482072_6164974_4437099_n.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1393)Testing out Scarpa Boosters in Kalymnos on "Gaia" (8b)... It wasn't until I got out my trusty Evolv's that the job was done! What I can say though, is that I have yet to find a shoe brand that truly meets all the demands of the modern climber like Evolv does. Why not check out here (http://www.evolvesports.com/climbing.htm) Evolv’s awesome line of performance shoe wear, whether you are a crack addict, grit fanatic or plastic fantastic, there is something perfectly designed and always quite trendy there just or you. I have been eyeing up the Rasta Shamans recently : P

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/rasta-shaman_profile.png) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1392)The ultimate in Reggae shoe wear I think what attracts me so much to the Shamans is their combined comfort and performance appeal. I like my shoes tight fitting but not agonising to the point of crippling myself. The subtle curved design and dipped toe at the end provides both comfort for your foot and the downturned nature of the best performance shoes. I think they feel similar in shape to maybe the La Sportiva Solutions (without being overly weird in size and make you look like Santa Little Helper) but like the 5.10 Arrowheads provide comfort as well.

The triple velcro system works perfectly to get as tight a fit as you can manage and is as easy to get of as saying 1…2…3…

Personally I’ve never been a big fan of laces, so these work perfectly. With other performance velcro shoes sometimes you find yourself really pulling hard to get that extra tighter squeeze round your foot, however with the Shamans triple velcro system its not even a bother.

Hope you enjoyed the video and that you noticed my Bo’ Selecta Michael Jackson impersonation at the start (dedicated to Alex Barrows). Thanks to Adam Bailes at Minus Ten Media (http://adambailes.co.uk/) not just for his awesome video editing work but also for his good chat at the crag, psyched to catch up and hang out in Spain for 2 months!!! YAAAAAHHHHHH!!!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: YCS Round 1 and 1:2′s @ Ratho
Post by: comPiler on January 15, 2012, 12:02:14 am
YCS Round 1 and 1:2′s @ Ratho (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1422)
14 January 2012, 10:31 pm

Today was yet another big day for me, it was the YCS Round 1 for the South Scotland region in which a large number of young rock stars that I coach were attending. Not only was I coming in to support my young padawans in one of the biggest events for them this year, but also I was in to work with some other young talents from up North who have made the 2 1/2 hour journey from Aberdeen for a tough weekend climbing at the only indoor climbing centre on earth where it can actually snow inside! On that note folks, the roof is finally fixed ; )

The day started out well. Three of my most talented pupils where hitting the boulders hard early on with some of the most awesome displays of pure psyche energy I have ever seen at a YCS round, and thats saying a lot seeing as I’ve been involved in the YCS every year since I was 15!

Ewan Davidson, Sam Harland-Sendra and David Miedsybrodski where toughing it out in whats probably the strongest category I’ve ever seen, Youth C Boys. Saying that, the Youth C girls is equally as tough seeing as there are around 6 girls competing in it all of whom deserve podium places. Competition can be a harsh environment : (

Ewan, Sam and David startled the audience with some impressive performances against the other boys, but hats have to go off to young Sam who pulled out an impressive flash of the second boulder problem, which only saw a couple of flashes through the entire day from categories a lot older than his!

One of my younger and more recent prodigies startled the crowd with an impressive flash of his second boulder, probably the only flash of that problem in his category and he even managed an even more outstanding top of his 3rd problem (the same one Sam flashed as his second).

In the youngest boys category, Sam’s brother (and my youngest padawan) Leo cruised absolutely everything, dominating his category with nothing more than pure Leo style crushing power!!! He flashed every boulder and every route bar his final which he fell only two holds from the top. This kid is seriously strong and still only 7 years old, the great thing about it is after the event, the fact that he had won was second only to his desire for Pizza : P QUALITY!

In the youngest girls category, Emma Davidson (Ewan’s sister) climbed outstandingly throughout the day and polished off with an impressive 3rd place. Ewan and David both had excellent days, Ewan making 2nd place and David missing out on 3rd by only a few points. Sam won the category in true French style (his dads french, good genes for climbing I think). Connor placed 2nd being tipped from first only by young Rory Whyte, one of the most impressive talents I have ever set eyes on and certainly no push over.

So all in all a good day for the kids competing. As well as supporting them, as I said above, I was coaching some Northern kids as well. Tomorrow we are having a massive mock competition for them, however today I was doing a few preliminary 1:2 sessions. First off I had young Ben Milne and Ben Findlay. Both were looking good on the walls today and i’m hoping that they continue on their fighting form for next weeks YCS in the North. Later on in the evening I had Max “The Future” Milne and Rebecca Kinghorn for a sesh. We didn’t push it too hard, though Rebecca made a very impressive onsight of one of Calum Forsyth’s spicy 6c’s and later on pushed pretty hard on a desperate comp wall 7a! Max was a little tired from I think the previous days fun with friends but still showed a lot of his usual unstoppable power on a top rope 7a+, getting it with only a few falls (mostly due to reach issues).

Tomorrow the rest of the Northern crew will dominate Ratho in their hoardes for a total beasting mock comp! I have 5 x routes planned in each category plus 3 x boulder problems from todays YCS event. They will benefit well hopefully from the comp style setting and positive Ratho atmosphere… that is if it isn’t too far below zero : D

Finally, a great big WELL DONE  to everybody that competed on the day. And a special well done to Jodie Brown who got her first ever podium place : D She’s been training extra hard for this, Keep it up dude!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: GCRS Coaching @ EICA: Ratho
Post by: comPiler on January 16, 2012, 12:01:19 am
GCRS Coaching @ EICA: Ratho (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1428)
15 January 2012, 8:40 pm

I know I said yesterday was tough, well today was tougher. Following on from yesterday’s South Scotland YCS Round 1, today I was working with a huge group of Scotland Norths top climbing clubs, the Granite City Rock Stars. Usually I coach these guys in their home wall, Transition Extreme, today though was a special occasion. Because of yesterdays YCS, we benefited from the new comp style routes and boulder problems and so we made a mock competition for the kids.

Unlike a YCS, we did 5 routes instead of 3 as well as 3 boulder problems. The psyche eminating from the group was inspiring to say the least. I can’t put into words just how amazing it is seeing the next generation of Scottish climbers being brought up in the current scene.

The first two routes in each category where pretty easy, but the level soon rose. Every group got to try at least three different routes from the YCS round plus a few extras.

The best part of the route climbing day had to be when watching Scott Donaldson on his onsight attempt of the hardest route from the YCS, the Orange Slab!!! I graded it f7a, but its probably physically only f6c, but on a technical perspective probably f9c+ : P It was one of the techiest routes I’ve ever climbed in my life! Scott’s attempt on it was amazing not only for his technical ability to get so high, but also for his sheer persistence and determination not to let go. Its this attitude that separates good climbers from the best. I first saw this element in Scott’s climbing whilst with him in Siurana, Spain. During the whole trip he didn’t fall off once despite being thrown into the deep-end on routes harder and more technical than he has ever been on before. Here’s a short clip of Scott making his high point on his onsight attempt. To give you a little background on the situation, I left him on the route after he had started climbing and had reached a tricky point in which he hung around for a few minutes figuring it out. I left for a good 10 minutes only to return and find him in the exact same spot! I was super impressed, so I gave him a key bit of beta which he used and scraped up the arete into the second crux and onwards to the top…

Onwards to the bouldering room. The problems set for the comp were interesting and thought provoking, perfect for a mock comp. The kids got 3 problems to try each in a YCS style format with a judge and spotter in their respective groups. Everyone seemed to be getting a lot from trying the problems, especially Busby’s volume problem (video in the last blog). It was impressive to see young Max “The Future” Milne top that as well as every other problem bar the hardest Fluro Yellow V7 that only one person topped (Flash), Jack Gomersall. Jack also made an impressive (and very scary) onsight of the purple 7a on the new comp wall.

So once again a very successful day coaching some of Scotland finest youth climbers. Next weekend I am up in Aberdeen once again for yet another coaching session, can’t wait : D

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Session with David
Post by: comPiler on January 17, 2012, 12:00:15 pm
Session with David (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1432)
17 January 2012, 10:17 am

Hey Guys

Tonight I was coaching young David Miedzybrodzki at EICA: Ratho. David did a brilliant job competing in probably the hardest category in last weekends YCS, the Youth C Boys. He placed 4th in the event but is pretty psyched to see if he can improve on that in further rounds in an effort to get a place on the Scottish Team and make the finals.

The coaching session today was based largely around returning to the competition routes and boulders that he struggled with on the day. Out of the three competition boulders, there were two that David didn’t manage. He was definitely capable of doing them, but sometimes its not just about whether or not you could do them after work, more whether or not you can spot the sequence quick and make the right decisions on the day when there is more pressure.

The first problem we looked at was the volumes only problem. This was my favourite out of all that where set and is certainly a work of art in terms of comp route setting. It was subtle, technical and very dependant on trusting your feet, weighting them appropriately in the right direction and body position. If you didnt weight your feet enough in the right direction you would slip and if you didnt have the correct body position the holds would feel terrible.

David and I discussed the problem and its nature, we watched videos of other competitors attempting and climbing it and we worked on it a great deal during the session. David seemed to struggle with the final move in particular. My opinion was that he wasn’t mantling far enough leftwards i.e. not trusting his left foot on the volume, but he got it in the end by doing a pretty crazy bridge against the side corner and slippey blue volume. Check out the vid:

Here is a video of Sam flashing the same problem at the YCS R1. Its really interesting to see the different ways both kids do it:

After his successful ascent, we moved outside into the freezing cold arena and had a shot at his final route, the Orange 6c! This route is no joke probably the hardest most techy 6c I’ve ever seen. I’m tempted to phone up Gresham and Dawes and ask them to see if they would grade it as a solo, cause i think it might be harder than “Indian Face” E10!!!

David climbed exceptionally well on this making it far up the route, further than he had on the comp day and fell on one of the final moves just before the last crux. He then began work on the upper section, working out the sequence, all the foot and body positions and repeatedly attempting the desperate final mantle. In the end he did every move and managed the route in roughly two or three sections, so he will definitely be back for this one.

After climbing, we finished off with a core session in the gym and then headed home.

Its the kids like David that really inspire me as a coach and make me want to continue helping them in any way I can. He has tonnes of motivation, focus and a definite drive that will aid him endlessley towards climbing success.

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Steve McClure @ TCA
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2012, 06:00:32 am
Steve McClure @ TCA (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1439)
26 January 2012, 10:40 am

We where meant to be heading down to the county for some Kylo action but on a quick glimpse at the darkened skies this morning we decided that a trip to TCA may be a better option (at least a slightly warmer/drier experience).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/tca-glasgow-small.jpg) (http://www.tca-glasgow.com/)Check it out, just click on the pic! Mr McClure had recently set a new white circuit at TCA and having heard a lot about his setting (almost all of it positive of course) I was eager to test them out.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/steve-odraconian.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1440)Steve McClure on the First Ascent of "O'Draconian Devil" (8b+) in Kalymnos. I did this route last October : D When I arrived it was just as I had expected, Steve being the King of Routes had set some amazing looking problems spanning across all the best features of the wall, using it to its fullest for every problem. The longest problems where in the region of 15 moves in length, but the sheer technicality and subtle style to every problem required very specific foot and body positions that took time and energy to place. Certainly I would say that for your average 15 move long upwards style route, your on the wall at least one and a half times as long for the longer McClure problems simply due to the climbing style.

After a days climbing on Steve’s problems, I came away feeling as though I’d been challenged technically as well as physically, something which rarely happens in Scottish Climbing walls. I think sometimes setters can be too overly focussed on making problems wild power fests with dyno’s and campus moves, which really are pretty basic and easy to make as well as totally pointless for the majority of climbers who wish to improve. Don’t get me wrong, I love basic pulling problems, i’d say thats what I’m good at more than anythingelse, but for us to really improve as climbers its not simply about how hard you can pull and I think that Steve’s setting displayed a style that proves this.

My only thought as to how the circuit could be better would be the addition of some shorter problems, but I guess its Steve’s style to set more power endurance style problems as thats his fortay. Big up to Mr McClure! I’ll be back next week when I’m a bit fresher for a real bash at these problems : D

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Luck of the Irish
Post by: comPiler on January 31, 2012, 12:00:32 am
Luck of the Irish (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1476)
30 January 2012, 11:47 pm

Last weekend saw me jet-setting off to the emerald isle, land of the leprechauns, shillelaghs and Eddie Barbour (some Indian/Irish 8a+ flashing machine that now resides in Edinburgh).

I was working for Neil Gresham Masterclass which in turn was contracted in to run a coaching series for Vertigo Outdoors (http://www.vertigo-outdoor.com/), a Dublin based Outdoor Adventure Company. Vertigo Outdoors is run by Rob Davies, his wife Debbie and their business partner Willie. They run an awesome operation over there, from coaching aspiring climbers and running outdoor rock sessions to adventure days in the mountains whether its walking, climbing, mountaineering or mountain biking!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/DSCN20881.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1479)Diligently watching : P The whole bunch of them were very friendly and incredibly welcoming. When I arrived I was picked up by Willie who took me directly to the climbing wall to begin my preparations and despite being on his day off stuck with me the whole day listening to me rambling on about climbing and training. Even when I ended up having a session at the wall he didn’t once complain. I believe his word were:

“I’ve never seen someone enjoy climbing so much!”

That night I stayed with Rob and Debbie at their home just outside of the city. I was eager to save my energy for the following days coaching but as soon as I found out they had their own woody, I was straight up there building circuits for them until something past midnight : P

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/DSCN21111.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1480)Rock over NOW!!!! The following day was great! I had two groups to work with, both 3 hours long focussing purely on technique and efficiency of movement. I started of guiding the clients through the basics of moving efficiently on the wall, beginning with the basics of footwork and body positioning. We then looked at using the skills on some pre-made boulders that I set and then again on hard routes onsight. After the onsight burns, we attempted to redpoint any that we missed and then watched videos of them, analysing weaknesses and strengths and comparing with each others, including some of myself demonstrating good technique on the same routes.

After the day was over we indulged in a chinese that afterwards I regretted with fear that 2 months of dedicated dieting was lost : P

Overall a really successful trip that has inspired some more climbers to take their skills a notch further. Not only has it been a successful working day, I also made a few new friends in the process : )

Thanks Rob, Debbie and Willie for a great time in Dublin!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: shark on February 01, 2012, 09:25:59 am
Its great to read about someone so psyched for the kids they coach - I bet they have a great time  :great:
Title: TCA Bouldering Competition (Round 2)
Post by: comPiler on February 07, 2012, 06:00:34 am
TCA Bouldering Competition (Round 2) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1493)
7 February 2012, 1:07 am

TCA Bouldering Competition Round 2

Saturday was the second round of Glasgow TCA’s (http://www.tca-glasgow.com/) winter bouldering competitions. The first round held last year I had won, surprising myself in my bouldering ability which I had always thought of as clinically weak : P I guess it still is on a comparative scale with my endurance, but seeing as I’m a focussed route climber it was nice to enter a bouldering competition and come out on top – ONE UP TO DA ROUTE CLIMBAZ!!!

The second round in my opinion was even better than the first. I really enjoyed the style of setting in the qualifiers far more. The competition format was Redpoint, meaning you could have as many goes on the problems as you wanted. This meant that nerves were greatly reduced across the field of competitors. The only factor that you had to take into consideration was that because unlimited goes were allowed, the problems set were definitely a step up from last time. I felt that in this format I was a little disadvantaged from not being as strong as other guys out in the field who were mostly pure boulderers.

It was funny on Saturday, because even though it wasn’t flash, I still tried hard to flash the problems for the added practice. I actually did quite well flashing all problems but four and apparently being the only guy to flash the insane slab (probably due to a slight height advantage I’ll admit). The problems I didn’t flash I managed to get most to the last or second last move by the end. I was a bit worried about my points, I knew Gary Vincent had done better than me on one or two problems and Alex Gorham was crushing absolutely everything I saw him on. Not to mention there where also a few dark horses floating around including one Ali Coull who I didn’t realise I was climbing alongside until the very end of the comp.

In the end it was quite a shock, I actually managed to qualify in first place! I beat Gary by 2 points in the qualifiers (probably thanks to the slab) and Alex was in third. The finals were next up and I was eager to do my best in them. I spent most of the time I had eyeing up the final problems, learning every detail i could about them to give myself the best advantage to flash them. From my perspective, I thought that i could flash the far right problem (Problem No. 3), it looked the easiest and most basic. The middle problem (Problem No.2) looked awkward and confusing, but I knew it wasn’t hard, just subtle and requiring a bit of finesse. The far left one (Problem No. 1) looked ok apart from one move to a volume which I was convinced I could get.

Problem No.1

I was first on this crazy thing. On my flash I made a stupid mistake half-way through and pinged of quite early. Second go was a lot better. I managed to stick all the moves until the volume, I eyed up the holds lying flat on the otherside, hoping they were there as I couldn’t quite see them. I threw my hand round the side, caught it, but my other hand came off! I swung off with one hand on the volume and the other flying through the air – before I knew it I was lying flat on the ground. I knew I wouldn’t get any higher but stupidly I decided to go for another blast… I didn’t even get up as high as the volume : P

Problem No.2

This wasn’t actually that bad. I think I could have done better on this if I had been on it first. I was still tired from the last problem and my fingers were starting to bleed at the tips : P It was just a weird sequence really. You had to manoeuvre your way around a huge volume and slap up to a big sloper, the problem here was that when you had the sloper you needed a high heel hook round the side to stabilise yourself before moving any higher, but I couldn’t quite get my heel up and I fell flat on my butt!

Problem No.3

Not making excuses… we actually I am. By the time I came to this one I was well and truly gubbed! There was no chance I was going to do this. I knew this was probably the easiest of the three, I knew it was the most basic and only required the ability to pull hard – but I didn’t have anything left : ( My arms were gone from previous attempts on the other problems and I had to just do my best. I barely got half way…

Thankfully halfway was enough to draw with Alex : P I got 2nd on countback and Alex was third. Gary won the finals with a flash of his first problem (Problem No.3).

It was a really great day overall and I can’t wait until the next one! Come on TCA guys, can’t we have one every month : P I think these bouldering competitions are a great way of testing how well you are going and I really enjoy them as days out just “hanging” with your mates. Saying that, big ups to Neill Busby who came 9th, Calum Forsyth who was 8th (just!) and Ian Patterson who was 14th!

Natalie came 2nd to Anna Trybis in the womans finals as well. Sorry Anna for stealing your brush : P

Also don’t forget guys that EICA: Ratho have their winter bouldering competition on the 19th February. I am setting for the event and will also be demoing for Evolv on the day. We have the new Shaman’s to test that Tiso’s at Ratho will be stocking, so come by and grab a demo pair to test out at the comp : )

PEACE!

P.s. There are loads of photos by Jen Randall (http://alloureggs.wordpress.com/)! Check out her site!

 

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Welcome to Siurana!
Post by: comPiler on March 01, 2012, 04:06:58 am
Welcome to Siurana! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1514)
29 February 2012, 12:36 pm

Hey Guys!

So… We have finally arrived (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)  It has felt like an age waiting for the day I would return to this amazing place and finally it is here. Andy and I arrived two days ago around 11pm, everything was dark, no sign of rock but a very faint outline on the already blackened starlit sky where I knew the cliffs lay waiting. The familiar turns in the road as we drove up through the valley shone out to me like a welcoming crowd of long lost friends, occasionally a brief glimpse of red sandstone (the underlying sediment below the rocky limestone cliffs) would remind me I was in Siurana, one of my favourite places on earth!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/6794641584_f185938968.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1518)Darkened cliff faces... We where very lucky actually, Phil Jack a good friend of mine (and one of my coached climbers) was out already and graciously offered to pick us up from the airport. Siurana isn’t the easiest of crags to get to without a car, but once your here, it really is a simple life with worries that only go as far as what your next route is going to be or what your going to be eating for dinner. For Andy and I, the lack of a car provides the added issue of finding people to give us lifts into town, but we’ll cross that bridge when we come to it (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

On our first day I really didn’t know where to start… Andy hasn’t been on nearly as many route climbing trips as me and in the last few months, hasn’t go that much climbing done, so it was important that he got stuck into some mileage first. I really wanted to inspire Andy with some of Siurana’s finest routes on our first day so I took him to one of the most spectacular features I have ever laid my eyes one, the immaculate towering beast of a cliff, El Pati!!!

We warmed up on the classic 6b+ “Lame Chuche Baby” first of all. My fingertips were frozen pulling on the micro edges but one feeling mutual with both Andy and I was – “It was great to be back on rock again!”.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/6940761787_58823bc31a.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1516)Andy on "Crosta Panic" 7a+ I warmed up a little more on an amazing 7a that I have done countless times before, “Viagraman”. Andy went on to make very short work of onsighting this little number, coming straight down afterwards not even slightly pumped. Not bad for someone who hasn’t really climbed in 3 months!

I was eager to get on to something harder and was eyeing up the fabulous line of “Migranya Profunda” (8b+) from across the valley. Andy went on to onsight the tricky 7a “Ay Mamita” and then we headed across the valley to L’olla sector so I could check out the 8b+. On my first trip to Siurana I onsighted the 7c+ direct start (sharing the first 3 bolts) called “Peixa”. On my second trip to Siurana (Last year) I did the mega classic 8b variation, “Migranya”, finishing directly upwards where “Migranya Profunda” (8b+) continues to traverse more to the left and up. This year I would like to complete the trilogy (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

On my first attempt I reminded myself of all the moves through the start. It was really nice to feel that moves that had previously felt quite tricky now felt really easy. I continued the traverse left for “Migranya Profunda” and found to my great satisfaction that no move felt harder than about V4 and indeed the crux of the 8b+ was still the crux of the 8b. The moves in “Migranya Profunda” are a million times better than in “Migranya” – you have wild cross throughs upside down with crazy pulls of really good mono’s and amazing terrain through steep power endurance style climbing. There’s also loads of rest on the route between the harder sections which if it wasn’t there I could imagine the route being 8c+ or something? All in all, the route probably follows a boulder grade pattern like this:

V3 -> V4 -> V3 -> Easy Section with rests -> V3 -> V4 -> Easy section with rests -> V3 -> V3(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Lolla.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1524)

On our second day, I wanted to show Andy some amazing easier routes in a sector I have come to really enjoy, “Espero Primavera”. We warmed up on my favourite 6b in Siurana, “Records Oblidats” and continued with the extension to the top of the crag. Andy and I both agreed that the pure quality of the climbing combined with the stunning position this route takes you to makes it one badass climb!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/6940750503_26c6c2e0d9.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1522)Phil taking a whipper off "Papagora" 7b+ We later on went round the corner back to “El Pati” were Andy onsighted his first 7a+ of the trip, “Crosta Panic”. This crazy route goes through a mega steep bulge right at the top with a fun no-hands kneebar to clip the chain (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)  I did it afterwards as another warm up before heading along to “L’olla” sector for my battle with the 8b+!

After chilling for the afternoon, I got back on the beast. My goals for today were to give it a burn and aim to link in three sections. I topped that with a very high point getting into the final crux (redpoint crux) i.e. the last point I think I’ll fall off on and then linked to the top from just below (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)  Two overlapping halves! I am really happy with this and hopefully it could go quite soon. In terms of difficulty, it doesn’t feel too much harder than other 8b+’s i’ve done but definitely a top end one. I’d say that in comparison with something like “Unjustified” at Malham it feels like there is a lot more to it. It reminds me quite a lot of “Preventiva” (8b) at Disblia, but again there are more cruxy sections with potential to fall. Compared with the Kalymnos 8b+’s its definitely a notch harder than them, maybe like doing “Gaia” (8b) twice (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/6794645342_a1794e7cd2.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1520)Andy chilling below Phil : P Regardless of the difficulty, I think this is the best route I’ve ever been on and I can’t wait to crush it into dust!

Today Andy and I are having a rest day, about to tuck into a Spanish Omelette Bocadillo whilst I fiddle about with photos, blogs, training programs and finishing my book…

Stay tuned in to the blog for the latest news on our trip here and also up and coming is a new blog on “Born to Succeed”! Chck out the old ones on the training blog too ;P

ROBZ OUT

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/6794642226_a8b371ed69.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1519)Dark Moon

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Migranya Profunda (8b+)
Post by: comPiler on March 03, 2012, 06:00:14 pm
Migranya Profunda (8b+) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1583)
3 March 2012, 12:24 pm

Hey guys!

 

So we’re 5 days into our trip to Spain, we’ve had four days climbing so far and me and Andy (despite what many thought may happen) have not killed each other (yet). The truth is, we’ve found that what was missing from previous trips together was our mutual love of Jim Carey and Will Ferrel movies. Together we have enjoyed an almost endless array of quotes from all their movies that have indeed kept us from tearing each other apart. That and of course an afternoon trying to remember the name of a TV show that both Andy and I watch… days in Spain really blend together when contemplating a lifetime of TV watching : P

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/flip-f.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1584)

If you read my last blog, you’ll know that tried a really amazing route called “Migranya Profunda” (8b+). On my first attempt, I was just getting my bearings on the moves. It was great to feel strong after pulling on plastic for the last 3 months, every move felt easy and linking sequence to sequence seemed to be the only issue that may arise.

 

Turns out this wasn’t really a problem. More or less from the word go I was hitting really high points on the route. On my 3rd attempt I fell at the final crux and on my 4th attempt, the final move! Last year I did the easier 8b version in around 4 goes, so to almost get the much harder variation in the same number of attempts after a year of training really boosted my confidence.(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6948714899_a720079c85.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1579)

 

Andy in the meantime made a few nice sends in the 6c-7a region. Until today, he hasn’t fallen of anything (probably because he’s too scared ;P ). In L’olla sector he onsighted the boudery 7a, “Cargol treu banya” as well as the grim looking 6c “Burden Chicken”. Today Andy got on the direct start to “Migranya” called “Peixa” (the first route I did in L’olla sector, 4 years ago?). He looked really strong on the initial moves, until he got a little stuck in a weird dihedral. The moves through this strange, angular feature are awkward, uncomfortable and basically like climbing a horrendous Yosemite trad route. He was going well until he grabbed for a crumbly bit of rock (NOT A HOLD ANDY). In short, it broke, he fell and now he has two bleeding tips (one horrible flapper on his pinky pad and a slice on his ring finger pad)… NASTY!

 

While Andy was recovering, I thought I may as well go for a burn on the 8b+. I cruised up the first 5 or 6 clips ticking off the first couple of cruxy moves (V3/4). I rested below the bulge, feeling really fresh then continued traversing under the roof doing the fun wild cross throughs between big positive jugs and pockets. I rested again under the left hand side of the bulge eyeing up the following sequence in my mind, every foot hold and hand hold committed to memory…

 

I started moving again, through the third crux (Left crimp, Right crimp, Left mono, Right jug, rest) and now into the very continuous final crux with one or two shakes before committing…

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6948708879_8a5a63ced7.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1578)El Pati (Left), El Cargol (Pillar) and Espero Primavera (Right)  

The last sequence isn’t hard on its own, probably a V3 and a V4 stuck together but with no rest in between after having already climbed 20m of power endurance climbing. I commit to the moves for a final time and enjoy the feeling of being confident, un-pumped and strong on every hold. I come up to a big move going for a positive juggy edge… before it always felt quite far, today it feels so close. I grab it, rest my right hand, re-position my right foot on a lower polished dish then begin to fiddle about with the awkward match. I hold the positive edge in a full 4 finger crimp position, then drop to back 3, match with my right hand, drop another finger to make back 2, then wriggle a bit more with my right until I feel it bite on the sharp spiky crimp. I drop my now free left hand into a positive open-hand side pull and re-adjust my right to a better grip position. On previous attempts I would be struggling a little now, but it all felt so solid still. I did the next small movements and came to the side pull 2 finger pocket that I had slipped out of last attempt. I lock down, slot middle two in and and lower slowly onto a jug out left… SAFE!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6802594760_832e16fa8d.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1582)Phil looking strong pulling on the slopey rail crimps on "L'escamarla" (7c+)  

Andy is belaying and shouts, “That looked easy!”. It felt fine but I’m not completely safe just yet. There are still two cruxes to go, not hard ones but droppable if you aren’t prepared for them. I shake out for a few minutes, collecting my thoughts, preparing my strategy and focussing on thinking confident. I begin to move into the last part of the route. I get to a quick rest before the second last crux, shake out, breathe, GO! Right Crimp, Left mono, right crimp, campus feet and stand up high, boost my left to the pinch, drop knee and lock to a good jug… Ahhhhhhhh!

 

I’m looking up now and the final bulge is a metre above my head with the chains glinting tantalisingly in the sunlight. After a minute I proceed but back down due to a brief hesitation moving into the powerful undercut pocket. I re-set, shakeout and proceed again… Lock right, undercut 2 finger pocket, 3 finger pocket, lock deep, intermediate bad crimp, go again… JUG! Feet swing off, left hand latches a jug as well! Heel flies over and I clip the chain… WAHOOOO!!!

 

The trilogy is complete, a journey of one sector that has lasted four years and 3 separate trips to Siurana. It started off only the first 3 clips on the 7c+, then the first 7 on the 8b, now all the way for the 8b+. It also turns turns out to be my 11th 8b+ in the last year, and what a year that has been : D

 

I think “Migranya Profunda” is my hardest route to date. Although it didn’t feel anywhere near my limit, nor did I really have any head issues with it, adding the whole route up and comparing to other routes I’ve done in the 8b+ region, it’s pure and simple just harder than every other route I’ve done and a winter of training has prepared me well for it.

 

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6802606878_98db92fccc.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1581)Phil committing to a powerful move on "L'escamarla" (7c+) Phil and our new friend Simond (French living in Hong Kong) have left now (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)   They have had a good trip to Siurana, Phil ticking of lots of 7a and 7a+ onsights plus a few close 7b onsights. He was also making good headway on a tricky 7c+ called “L’escamarla”. For a week in Spain, this is a really good effort. Phil is returning to the rigs now and will be getting stuck into some hardcore training for Ceuse in July hopefully (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)

 

Andy and I are now on a rest day, we have run out of food and are grabbing a lift of a strong French climber Alizee Dufraise and her dad Philippe who we’ve been chatting to a bit out here. After our rest day, I am keen to check out an 8c called “2 x 30″ and potentially and 8c+ called “Pati Noso” that Philippe and Alizee suggested to me. They both look really good, however I am not big into projecting and prefer to climb lots of easier routes rather than a few really hard ones, so maybe if I do well on “2 x 30″ then we can see where I go with trying “Pati Noso” or potentially some easier routes instead (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

 

Anyway, hoping to do a bit of filming as well soon on “Migranya Profunda”, perhaps get a good beta vid for anyone who might want it. Stay tuned for more from Siurana!

 

ROBZ OUT

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6948719599_fd838f4c16.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1580)Phil taking the final stretch to the top of "L'escamarla" (7c+). He didn't do it this trip unfortunately, but he'll be back!

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Moving to Can Piqui Pugui
Post by: comPiler on March 08, 2012, 12:00:16 pm
Moving to Can Piqui Pugui (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1590)
8 March 2012, 10:31 am

Hey Guys

Our first week is through in Siurana already : ( It seems that every morning I wake and hope that the trip isn’t going as quickly as it seems, but trips always do. Its getting to that point now that Andy and myself are noticing our movement on rock is improving and routes we previously saw as being a little out of reach are indeed closer to possibility than we imagined.

Andy onsighted his first 7b yesterday, “Decidit en petit comite” at Can Piqui Pugui sector. He made it look pretty easy and I am positive that its nowhere near his limit. At the same time I warmed up on a 6c+ that last year I thought was 7b+!!! Hardest 6c+ ever in my opinion : P I later warmed up a little more by onsighting the classic 7c+ “Siouxie”. Not the best idea seeing as some of the crimps were pretty damn sharp and it was in the sun (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

After warming up, I checked out the 8a+ “Gigololo” from the ground, hoping that it could be a potential onsight. Half an hour later I was up high on the route, feeling strong and solid on every move. I came up to a hard move to a pocket but had held the wrong part of a chalked up crimp and my left hand spat off the wall sending me off in an instant.

The annoying thing about Siurana is the unpredictability of the climbs. Compared with places such as Rodellar, Santa Linya, Terradets or Margalef were the climbs tend to be more sustained and endurance based, Siurana definitely holds true to being a boulderers answer to sport climbing. Although the routes are long, they almost always contain a single crux that far outstretches the difficulty of every other move! This is both a curse and a blessing. It means you don’t get ticks just because your fit enough (or even strong enough), you actually have to be good enough to spot the sequence quickly and respond appropriately to it.

The other day I also checked out a potential 8c for me called “2×30″ at El Pati sector. The route takes a first initial bulge that is actually fairly easy climbing, then into a short and hard boulder problem on vicious little razor crimps (V6-ish). After the boulder you do a sustained sequence on small but positive edges with smears for feet into a good sidepull and quarter pad crimp from which you do a wild dyno to a good flatty (Dyno is probably V5 in itself). After the flatty you climb the equivalent of a f7b+ to the top.

Its an amazing route and I am more than certainly going to try and do this soon, however the razors have temporarily held me back on any further attempts (no skin left) so I am going to try different routes until my pads heal. The annoying thing with this route is the consistently wet undercut jugs before the crux that soften your skin before pulling on the shards of glass that await only a couple of moves after : P

Instead I am going to try and do another 8b+ called “Mr Cheki” at Can Piqui Pugui that I spotted after doing “Gigololo” and then possibly another 8b+ next to it that differs in style called “Renegoide”. Andy and I have written out a little tick list to stick to which will allow us to focus a bit better on our goals rather than walking aimlessly out to the crag every morning to try whatever picks our fancy. Once my skin has healed a bit more, then I will step the game up onto 8c

I am not worried about ticking an 8c before I am ready, I would much rather climb lots of fun routes that challenge me in different ways and build my mega pyramid of DOOM!!!

Then climb lots of 8c’s easily :

Still having fun…

ROBZ

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Mr Cheki (8b+)
Post by: comPiler on March 10, 2012, 06:00:09 pm
Mr Cheki (8b+) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1594)
10 March 2012, 3:34 pm

Hey Guys

Yesterday I did another 8b+ called “Mr Cheki”. This route is in a sector called Can Pigui Pugui, a place I have visited only a few times out of the many weeks spent climbing in Siurana over the years. Although this is one of the more popular venues for those climbing in the f8′s, it never struck a chord with me. Probably because of the relatively short nature of the routes there. I have always been one for big, impressive lines that cover lots of steep terrain in wild dramatic settings. El Pati for instance is somewhere that really strikes me as a beautiful crag… doing a route there is like a stairway to heaven.(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/PIGGYPOOGYMAP.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1603)

In Can Pigui Pugui the wall is beautiful in its own way, it’s shorter by nature but still contains pristine classic lines that have their own unique character. The wall isn’t as steep as El Pati but  still has that dramatic setting. You face outwards into a valley with a huge Ceuse style crag spanning across the full length of the opposing side… stunning to say the least.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Opposingcrag.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1602)The wall facing Can Pigui Pugui! Note: This is NOT bolted for some bizarre reason... The climbing is more powerful in Can Pigui Pugui and strangely enough reminds me a bit of Malham. The routes tend to be more polished and a lot more tweaky with lots of weird twisted pockets and sharp jagged crimps – thats a big part of the package with Can Pigui Pugui.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/felix1.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1597)Felix cruising the starting boulder of "Mr Cheki" The line I was on (“Mr Cheki”) starts up left of one of Siurana’s oldest 8a’s, “Anabolica”. “Anabolica” is the most popular 8a in Siurana according to 8a.nu (http://www.8a.nu/Index.aspx?CountryCode=GLOBAL) with around 260 ascents on the database! Whilst I was trying “Mr Cheki”, Andy was checking out “Anabolica”. Needless to say, Andy being the boulderer, he cruised the first 10m to the crux bulge. The hard move here though is very particular and quite tweaky if your not good on pockets. He worked the sequence a bit, a hard lock move to an undercut pocket then a powerful pull through to a crimp then a bump again to a jug. After that its not completely over but not nearly as hard as the previous sequence. Although Andy is more than capable to doing the sequence, the pocket was feeling a little bit tweaky for him so he gave it a rest and decided to come back for it another day.

On “Mr Cheki” I was having a good day. On my first attempt I climbed through the whole bottom section, through the first hard crux and into more or less the final hard moves. Unfortunately my fingers slipped out of a good resting pocket (probably because they were so numb with cold) and I was left to work the remaining sequence in the upper part.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/felix2.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1598)Felix pulling the gnarly pocket on "Mr Cheki" Needless to say I was back on it in short time, this time I fell a little higher again. I was struggling to gain a positive pocket (the last crux for me). I threw for it once (missed), again (missed), again (missed)… DAMN!!!! AGAIN (STUCK), I pulled through but my fingers were so numb (again) that I couldn’t feel what I was holding and slipped out the pocket. This was quite frustrating as you can imagine. The physicality of the route wasn’t a problem, it was more the fact that my fingers were constantly cold.

On my last try I decided to look for a better warm up. A small jug at the bottom of the cliff was all that was needed. After 15 minutes of moving my hands about on the flat jug, changing from full crimp to half crimp to open hand, one arm dead-hangs, pull ups and locks I was ready for it!

In the end, it felt really steady. I wasn’t tired or pumped and my fingers maintained warmth throughout the whole climb. I really enjoyed sticking the hard launch to the pocket, feeling as though there was no way I was coming off. As I locked in my fingers, I pulled through another deep lock to grab the next jug – SOLID! Afterwards there was still one more move where there is potential to fall, but I was confident with my sequence. A german climber call Felix had tried before me and fallen here with his sequence, but I was sure that mine would prevail. After a minutes rest, I moved through the next few moves and was latching the glory jug with only 2 clips of 6a climbing to finish with.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/MrCheki-Pocket.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1601)The "Gnarly" Pocket on "Mr Cheki" I lowered to the ground victorious and 15 minutes later, Felix sent the route too! Photos on the blog are of him on his send (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)

With only 30-40 minutes of light remaining, I forced Andy back into belay mode despite his moaning about it being too cold. I wanted to try “Renegoide” (8b+), just to check out the moves before I come back after today’s rest day. Despite being tired after two days climbing and lack of skin, I did all the moves quite comfortably and am pleased with how the moves piece together. The route is very different to “Mr Cheki”, its short but only slightly overhung, very crimpy and very sustained! None of the moves are physically hard, just very involved in your feet and fingertips (skin).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/felix5.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1600)Finishing off "Mr Cheki" as the day turns to night... I’m really looking forward to coming back tomorrow, hopefully to do it quickly and to give Andy encouragement on “Anabolica”! He can certainly do it if he puts his mind into it (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)

Hope your all climbing and training hard out there!

ROBZ

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/RENEGOIDE.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1604)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/ColdAndy.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1596)Andy when I told him I wanted another belay...  

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: TCA: March Madness – Mini Boulder Comp
Post by: comPiler on March 12, 2012, 06:00:20 pm
TCA: March Madness – Mini Boulder Comp (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1612)
12 March 2012, 3:03 pm

Hey Guys

The UK’s biggest (and best) bouldering wall is going to be offering all climbers an amazing opportunity to come test out the facility. Whether you are a seasoned climber eager to test his/her self on some hard boulders or have never climbed before, there will be loads happening throughout the day the is sure to keep you occupied. Plus the best bit is its all totally FREE!!!

The TCA Glasgow is an amazing facility for any climber whether beginner or advanced. I regularly train there to better my skills as a boulderer as the quality of setting and of the walls is of such a high standard. As you will read below, there will be 18 new problems to try for the day, so get yourself there to test your skills out on the wall.

Below is a write up taken from the TCA Blog (http://www.tca-glasgow.com/glasgow-climbing-blog/2012/3/12/march-madness-mini-boulder-comp.html).

Beginner or Elite… Try Win a Prize This coming Sunday (18th March) is going to be a really exciting one here at TCA.  We are opening our doors to all for FREE! (http://www.tca-glasgow.com/glasgow-climbing-blog/2012/3/5/march-madness-is-coming.html)  While the focus of the day is just coming in and enjoying the TCA facilities free of charge, we have a number of other things going on to make it all that bit more interesting.  The first of which is the mini boulder comp.

(http://www.tca-glasgow.com/storage/Student31.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1331562856904) How does it work? On the day there will 18 brand new problems falling in to the following 3 categories (i.e. 3 problems per category):

The competition will be a hybrid format of our onsight (https://vimeo.com/35993232) and redpoint (https://vimeo.com/36521413) competition formats and works like this:

Which category you enter is based on your own honesty and trust but the judges do reserve the right to move people up a category if deemed appropriate.

The great news is that Ellis Brigham have also kindly donated prize vouchers for each category. So it is well worth having a go.

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: “Renegoide” (8b+)
Post by: comPiler on March 15, 2012, 06:00:19 pm
“Renegoide” (8b+) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1615)
15 March 2012, 2:16 pm

Hey Guys

Things are definitely heating up now! The weather has taken a bit of a change, from being pretty darn cold to swelteringly hot. Of course its always possible to climb in the shade, but what we’ve been finding is if you climb in the shade in the evenings, after the rock has had been heated up for the whole day, it still isn’t perfect conditions. I would gladly be getting up at 6:00 am to catch the perfect temps, but thats not so easy when your belay partner is Andy “still on bar night shift sleeping patterns” Latta (thats a long middle name!).(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6984530021_fb5feffcfa.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1622)

It’s not so bad though, I was happy the other day to tick of yet another classic 8b+ called “Renegoide”. Only a couple of days after ticking the burly, boulder beast “Mr Cheki” (8b+) at the same crag. This route was very much a different style to the other climbs i’ve done already. “Renegoide” takes a nice orangey blue line up a slightly overhung face (10 degrees at most), climbing on small half-pad crimps that are more or less razor blades most of the way. It reminds me of climbing on the main wall (justice panel) at Ratho, very sustained, little or no rests and what would no doubt make Neil Mcgeachy, the king of endurance, pee his pants in excitement!

The day I did “Mr Cheki”, I had a very brief play on the moves just to sort out in my head what I was doing. The next day I got stuck into it. I was surprised that after some skin had grown back, the holds felt so much better and I actually made a 2 halves link on my 2nd try. This was no doubt going to go quickly, the only issue being that my skin was getting ripped apart by the sharpe edges and nodules that you bear down on. I decided that a rest day was in order to try and regain some skin for a better attempt – that night I even pasted on a layer of anti-hydral to try and dry out the skin a bit to give it more bite on the nasty crimps.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6984525203_4f5167f424.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1621)Resting... Andy and I came back to the crag, this time with a friend of ours, Michelle (Danish) who I have to thank for the excellent photos she took. After warming up on a nice 7b, I went for “Renegoide”. That day turns out was the hottest day this year and the rock felt like it was melting! Equally my skin felt like it was melting on the rock, but incidentally, the moves still felt really good. During the crux move at around half-height, I could feel my fingers peeling away from the rock, the holds were so small and slopey here that the heat really wasn’t doing me any favours. I pressed on regardless and made it to the rest just after the crux moves. I felt really good physically, not pumped or tired, just hot! I was wearing a beanie as well which didn’t help the heat situation. Stupidly I didn’t cut my hair before leaving the UK and its becoming an increasing nuisance whilst I’m climbing… much better to just hide it under a hat (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

I pressed on into the second and third crux, still feeling really solid, finally making it to the last few tricky moves. I rested on some small but positive crimps, eyed up the remaining moves and committed to the 6m run-out to the next clip. In the video below you’ll see Alizee Dufraisse climbing “Renegoide”. The point in which she clips the chain and lets go is after the run-out, unfortunately, she didn’t realise that the route isn’t over here and that the two clips there are only 3/5 up the wall! But thats a fair mistake, I did the same thing first time up there.

So after making the scary run-out, I then continued to the top (another 15m of 6c-ish climbing). Not hard, not blow-able really, but a little scary technically after having climbed the lower part and not wanting to fall now of course. There was a moment pulling through the bulge at the top when my hand hold broke in one place at the same time as a foothold broke… this was at the end of a 6m runout as well… I may have peed myself slightly (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6838393992_007b587a49.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1619)Scary run-out!!! Finishing off at the top of the wall was a great feeling again, especially after climbing something so different in style to the other 8b+’s i’ve done over the last year… Numero 13 – TICKED!

Andy and Michelle decided to go for a 7b onsight after my climb. They fought valiantly, Andy making it more or less into the final hard moves, but unfortunately to no avail. Michelle and I discussed the importance of failure on routes i.e. it’s only by failing do we really learn. This got me thinking about my own performance in the day, had I really learned anything from “Renegoide”? I have because I had previously failed and overcome it, but I still felt that the day wasn’t entirely satisfactory, I needed to fight something harder and get beaten up a bit!

I decided to try and onsight an 8a I had heard was quite good. It was called “Un rato en cada Postura”. I route read it from the ground, spent some time visualising the route, then went for it. In my opinion, this was my best performance of the trip. I fought for it, tooth and nail! I wasn’t going to let go unless I really had nothing left. I made mistakes, but I pulled through them, it was a good onsight attempt, but i didn’t succeed. I fell staring a jug in the face and moving to a good crimp where my foot popped on a bad smear. I was boxed out my nut and deserved to fail, but I was happy to have given it my all. I pulled back on, did the next move, grabbed the jug and climbed the remaining f5 climbing to the chains 5m above me. I felt even better after reading comments on 8a.nu, usually referring routes as being “soft”, but instead this was all “HARD!”. Always a confidence booster that (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6838385020_2e6f939248.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1617)Engaging in the crux of "2x30" (8c) So after a good day at Can Pigui Pugui, I decided I need to up my game. I got on the 8c at El Pati called “2×30″ and managed to do it in two halves – bottom to crux and crux to top! This is fantastic and it was only my second time on the route. The crux is bloody hard, a dyno of a good sidepull, bad feet and a tiny micro edge crimp to a good flat jug, but i’m psyched now and I know i can do it (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)  I am also psyched by the route at Can Pigui Pugui “El Membre” (8c) after I’ve done “2×30″ and potentially “Pati Noso” (8c+) if I have enough time, but we’ll see (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

For now, I’m going to relax, maybe eat a nice omellette bocadillo whilst watching a film and climb tomorrow!!!

ROBZ OUT

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6838389414_4436200f89_z.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1618)

 

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: My First 8c “2×30″
Post by: comPiler on March 19, 2012, 12:00:17 am
My First 8c “2×30″ (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1632)
18 March 2012, 6:59 pm

YAASSSSSSS!!!

So I’ve finally ticked my first 8c (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)  To be honest, probably from a severe lack of trying more than anything. I haven’t really been focussed on ticking 8c, I prefer to consolidate a grade before jumping ahead of myself. This style of attack at climbing improvement in my opinion is much better than simply throwing yourself at harder and harder climbs, so this 8c for me came at the right time. I had just climbed my 13th 8b+ of the last year (a good consolidation number (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif) ) and it was definitely time to step it up a notch.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6838389414_4436200f89_z.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1618)The route, as most of you may know already, is called “2×30″ or “Dos por Trente” in Spanish. It takes an amazing line in the hardest sector at Siurana, El Pati. To give a little bit more understanding, you know where “La Rambla” (9a+) is? Well its directly right of that!

So down to the route then… Overall the climb took me 9 attempts. Doesn’t sound like very much, but it was actually about 4 days of effort. I couldn’t really have more attempts in a day since the holds (being so small and crimpy) just wore away at your skin. The first 10m of climbing is very easy, only about f6a/b ish up a small bulge for the first 2 clips then into a kind of bridging corner to gain the second bulge. Here is where it starts – from the top of the corner, you shake out and chalk up ready to do battle with the beast. The initial moves through the bulge are easy, pulling on good sidepulls to gain a couple of juggy undercuts that take you to another slopey jug and undercut before pulling into the first crux. The only issue with the jugs here is that they are more or less constantly wet, a really annoying factor to take into consideration seeing as the crux moves coming up are on very small quarter pad crimp edges that dig deep into your pads, ripping the flesh literally from your fingertips (tasty).

The first crux I reckon is about V6 (F7A) in grade. It comprises of 8 moves, all of which individually aren’t that hard, but combined become pretty spicy. The crux move in this sequence is a powerful lock around 7 moves in that relies on a hard press on a sharp crimp to gain a very small and painful left hand press a bit higher up – from here you can quickly shake and move out to a small one finger half pad crimp, then cross into an uncomfortable mono. The nasty bit about the mono is that you have to use it to smear your feet up on bad footholds in order to pull towards the next hold, a much better crimp up and right.

The hardest bit about this route is that although the individual moves through this first section and the upcoming section aren’t hard, they do drain power from you which is what then holds you back for the following crux. After gaining the crimp from the mono, you can shake briefly before pulling into a short sustained section of around 7 moves until the next crux. Again none of these moves are hard, but they are awkward to rest on and drain you a little before the meaty crux move coming up.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6838385020_2e6f939248.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1617)Engaging in the cross-through gaston move at the first crux of "2x30" (8c) Finally we arrive at the mother of all cruxes! This I think is the hardest single move I have done on any route. The move itself is a powerful yard of a good side-pull for your right and a wide apart crimp out left. The issue is that the next hold is miles away, and you have only really bad feet that are exceptionally high to push off. This basically means a wild jump for the flat jug. It’s hard to grade a single move, but for me, combined with the sequence leading into it, possibly I would say another V6 (F7A) bloc. I fell on this move three times on link from the bottom before doing it (the time I actually did the route).

This single hard move is what makes the route 8c, without it I would say f8b or soft f8b+. The problem is the severe low percentage-ness (is that a word?) of the move. You could stick it first time or fall of 300 times! On 8a.nu, a few strong climbers said hard for the grade whilst others said soft. It’s a hard one to debate when it comes down to a very specific move thats low percentage even when disregarding height – if your small the holds further away but the feet are better, if your tall the holds closer but your feet are lower on smears and you have to jump!

To the chains from here the climbing is probably only worthy of around f7b+, but its not as easy as it sounds. The following moves after the jump are tricky of bad crimps and small footholds (a friend of mine fell of here on the link). Then after a rest from doing that, you do quite a tricky step up of another small crimp into a flat juggy sidepull (another friend fell here on the link). I am so happy that I didn’t fall in this last section otherwise I may have just cut the rope (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  (only joking… I think?).

After getting the good sidepulls, you can chill a bit before an awkward move to another crimp and a pull through to the next good rest. Here it is almost (but not quite) over. You have a really amazing rest, but still one last section of f6c/7a climbing with some balancy climbing and a few throws to good (but not that good) holds. You turn the bulge, matching on a positive sloper/edge then rest up before the victory climb to the chains.

Wow! What a route (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)  I must say I am pretty chuffed with myself having climbed such an amazing line in Siurana. The climbing was brilliant even though the rock quality could quite easily be called choss in places (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  I am a little worried about one of the footholds… it moves a little too much for me to be 100% happy with its solidity to the wall.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/robbie-getting-ready.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1633)Getting psyched before the final attempt! I am hoping to get footage and pics to follow of me climbing this amazing route (as well as others I have climbed and have yet to do) so stay tuned for those. What’s up next though? Well, I really want to start consolidating 8c like I did with 8b+. There are two 8c’s in Siurana that I really want to do, one called “El Membre” and another which a friend, Daniel Jung (http://daniel-jung.blogspot.com.es/), has proposed I try called “Lola Corwin”. The only issue with these are that they are in sectors that currently neither Andy, Geek or Jonny are that keen to go to. I’m not bothered though, I’d much rather chill with them for the time being. Instead, I am going to test the water on 8c+ and work the moves on “Pati Noso” (8c+), the left-ward variant to “2×30″. This shares the starting sequence as well as the jump move, but instead of f7b+ terrain to reach the chains, it looks more like f7c+/8a, possibly harder if I believe what half the folks around here are saying :/

Anyway, psyched for whatever is coming up next! Here’s to 6 more weeks in SPAIN!!!!

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Siurana HURTS!!!
Post by: comPiler on March 31, 2012, 07:00:16 pm
Siurana HURTS!!! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1641)
31 March 2012, 5:46 pm

Hey Guys

Sorry for keeping everybody in the dark these last two weeks, in truth I have been a little lacking in inspiration to write a blog. I haven’t ticked anything since doing my 8c “2×30″ – the day after I did it I got on the 8c/+ variation “Pati Noso”, almost ticking it on my second time on the rope! But after getting that high point on the route I also pierced a hole in my pinkie, which then made climbing through the crux impossible for me… This was really frustrating seeing as how I had made such a great first attempt on the route, so instead of doing further damage I opted for a double rest day.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/7032454913_35ee651f43.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1654)Stuart creeping closer to the steep bulge on "Crosta Panic" (7a+)  

After two days rest, my hole had still not healed and out of haste and my ambition for 8c/+ glory, I taped up and went for it. After warming up on a 7b+, blood was leaking through the tape and I was forced to take further rest. Two days later and there was still no improvement. It’s been pretty tough dealing with this bad skin injury, it doesn’t seem to heal like normal cuts. From chatting to other climbers in the campsite, I reckon the puncture was just really deep and that it will inevitably take a lot longer to heal.

 

After another couple of days rest (bringing us to yesterday), I decided to get back on “Pati Noso” and see how the skin held up. On my first attempt of the day I fell on the last hard move, pulling the easiest move of the final boulder problem to the jug. My foot popped as I stepped up to grab the hold – another frustrating attempt. The pinkie held out a while but from pulling on the crux shards (they can’t be described as holds) my cut was oozing plasma. I wiped my tears (because I’m a big boy now) and went on for a second go.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6886315208_9818e4fa8b.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1645)Stuart grinning behind the roof of "Crosta Panic" (7a+) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6886363792_c1970efe421.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1655)Stuart + Mhairi gearing up below "El Cargol" Pillar Amazingly I felt even stronger on this attempt and I was gunning for it now until… disaster struck! I pulled on a small spike low down after the two initial cruxes and my right index finger burst open, showering blood on everyone below. Funnily enough, I didn’t even notice it happen and continued climbing until I realised that there was a serious lack of friction coming from my right hand – so I dropped off with my head in my hands wondering why this is always happening to me.

Looking back on it now, I feel a bit ashamed with the way I was acting. As somebody who is always striving for perfection in climbing and constantly pushing their boundaries, it’s sometimes easy to lose grip on reality. I put so much pressure on myself to achieve, to hit higher and harder grades and it’s easy to forget that there is more to climbing than just ticking of numbers (even though it’s a highly motivating factor).

 

Someone who really inspired me here was a new friend of mine, Felix, from Germany. He is only a year or two older than me, but he’s been climbing since he was very young, competed on the world stage and has a long history of being a top climber both nationally and internationally. The way he approached climbing was refreshing and pretty inspiring to see. He really seemed to enjoy just going climbing, being at the crag, having fun on the routes. He put little pressure on himself to succeed yet he still came out and cranked 8c+, 8c as well as numerous 8b+’s and two 8b onsights/flashs. It was humbling to watch, as I built pressure barriers for myself on “Pati Noso”, he just cruised it practically dancing his way to the top.(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/7032421623_597e044231.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1651)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6886333000_3085e8e0c71.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1656)Mhairi pulling the bulge on "Crosta Panic" (7a+)  

As I was inspired with his approach, he too was inspired by my dedication and focus to training and improving. Felix was ranked 2nd in the World in Beijing behind Magnus Midtboe a number of years ago, so he has already lived the training lifestyle and now I think he puts less pressure on himself to achieve, but just as Sharma says in the “King Lines” movie – You have to want to achieve in order to do so, but not so much that it causes you to fail due to pressure (a concept I have struggled to put to practice recently). But in the end, that’s what it’s all about really… when your balancing at the edge of your peak performance, so do you have to start juggling with more variables. Just like in real life, if you juggle with more balls you’re bound to drop them, but only by challenging ourselves with more do we get better!

 

Anyway, right now I am nursing my skin back to health and eagerly awaiting the arrival of my Welsh friends whom I am coaching with this week. The first week of the coaching trips this year is with some top Welsh kids and the second week is with the Scottish kids that I do 1:1’s with back in Edinburgh – it will be good to see how they are progressing with all their hard work and training.

 

The campsite now is buzzing with Scottish accents. All my friends from back home have arrived and are dominating the crag. Neil Mcgeachy and Jonny Stocking arrived last week whilst the rest, Calum Forsyth, Neill Busby, Gary Vincent, Stuart Burns and Mhairi Thorburn arrived earlier this week. Also Jonathan Field arrived last night and today a friend from Ireland, Lucie Mitchell, arrived today. And tomorrow my Welsh friends Simon Rawlinson and Liz Collyer are arriving – WOOP WOOP! IT’S ALL HAPPENING IN SIURANA!!!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/6886375292_e0edefb70f.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1657)Mr Daniel Jung sporting his blue fuzzy boxers - he climbed "Estado Critico" (9a) a few days later swearing that the boxers give him the 9a POWER!  

Even if I’m not climbing much over the next week or two, I certainly won’t be short of company (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)

 

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Siurana Coaching Weeks (Wales + Scotland)
Post by: comPiler on April 18, 2012, 07:00:17 pm
Siurana Coaching Weeks (Wales + Scotland) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1660)
18 April 2012, 3:36 pm

Hey Guys

 

I haven’t actually been on the Internet in around 2 weeks now! I’ve been focussing all my energy on coaching in this time so I apologise if you’ve been trying to contact me for whatever reason and have been unable to.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/6944449138_89576a46dd.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1661)Neil Busby hanging out in the roof resting jug on a tricky 7c at Margalef  

Some people reckon coaching is an easy game, you just rock up to the crag, belay a bit, throw up a few top ropes, basically climb all day, then go back to the campsite and chill out… Well I’ve got news for you, it certainly isn’t that hard (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  Well it’s not that hard if you love it… the last two weeks for me have probably been the most enjoyable weeks of my trip even though I’ve barely climbed anything for myself in that time. Sure I managed a few cheeky belays at the end of the day and there are always your clients rest days that you can climb on, but after focussing solidly on their needs and wants for whole days at a time and using all your energy to see their goals and coaching requirements met, it does leave you a bit drained.

 

In the last two weeks I’ve done a couple of nice 8b’s. One was 2nd go after coaching the Welsh kids (cheers to Liam Fyfe for the belay) and the other was after a particularly draining day shouting five Scottish kids up a 40m 7a+ pillar.

 

My first week coaching the Welsh was unfortunately very wet. After the driest spring in the last 5 years (according to locals), as soon as the Welsh stepped of the plane, dark clouds came from nowhere unleashing a hellish storm upon the Siurana crags. It was a bit of a washout to say the least, but despite not perfect conditions, they still got a good week of climbing in. I was working mostly with two young boys, Cai and Fin (Bishop-Guest). These two brothers were awesome climbers and good friends. What impressed me most about the two of them was their fierce attitude to supporting each other – when one trying something hard the other was supporting them in a die hard (A Muerte) attitude. By the end of the week, Cai had ticked off a couple of classics including “Viagraman” (7a) and “Crosta Panic” (7a+) as well as getting nail bitingly close to flashing the Siurana beast “Bistec de Biceps” (7b+). What was even more impressive was Fin nailing two 7a’s on lead after never having lead harder than 6b before!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/6944503064_4757e88792.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1674)Matthew looking for monos when every hold around it is a jug!  

During the second week of coaching the weather was quite a bit better but not without the odd shower (and hail storm). This time I was coaching as part of the MCofS’s annual Spain trip alongside fellow Ratho coaches Neil Mcgeachy, Neill Busby, Gary Vincent and Calum Forsyth. Also appearing as coaches where Jonny Stocking, Ross Kirkland, Tom Bolger, Lynne Malcolm and Mark Mcgowan. This is the second time the trip has run and in my opinion was even more of a success than last year. The trip was fully booked with 25 kids attending including not only Scottish, but English and even one German kid.

 

Every coach was given a group to work with for the week, my group being those that I do weekly 1:1 sessions with at Ratho (because I know their levels and needs best). Those in my group where:

 

 

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/The-Crew.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1662)The Lads (exception of Matthew who had left already) The aim of the week for my group was for each of them to achieve a grade goal specific to them, a feat of 20 climbs clean (bottom to top whatever grade) and to have fun! Everyone had already achieved the last goal the minute they saw the crag (aided further with Connors iPad games). All of them were eager for 7a outdoors since they had all at least achieved this indoors. I was also keen to get them to lead a few climbs whilst out here. I was not so worried about getting them leading hard outdoors just yet, there is time for that in future trips.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/7090615785_ff0308de59.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1672)David, usually quiet and content shows his dark side days into the trip (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/6944508992_b6b9cb2108.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1663)Sam redpointing the mega classic 6c with a name too long to remember (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  On the first day we were heading to Can Marges, a good easy-ish sector (lots of 4’s, 5’s and low 6’s) when disaster struck! Andy, Matthew’s dad tripped awkwardly on a steep path fracturing various parts of his leg (specifics I’m not sure on). The trip was off to a shaky start – we had to get paramedics in to take Andy off to hospital and little Matthew was left with us. A number of the parents left with Andy whilst the rest of us took the kids climbing to take their minds of the mornings mishap.

 

The days climbing turned out spectacularly though – all the boys ticked off a number of classics and even perfected their re-threading skills under my watchful eye. What was most impressive was at the end of the day, David and Sam flashing the uber classic 6c “El tiempo se ha reido de los que no han venido”.

 

On day 2 we headed to Espero Primavera sector in the morning, climbing yet more classic lines such as “Espero Primavera” (6a), “Tan San Fot” (6b+) and “Berberechin Fibrao” (6b+). Later in the day we headed around the corner to the main sector of Siurana, El Pati. I showed the boys the mega hard lines such as “Kallea Borroka” (8b+), “2×30” (8c) and “La Rambla” (9a+). They then got stuck into some potential projects of their own. Sam, Connor and Matthew tried “Viagraman” (7a) whilst Robert and David attempted the 35m long mega beast “Ay Mamita” (7a). In an amazing turn of events, David set the standard with an impressive (and very surprising) flash of “Ay Mamita”. This was his first attempt at a 7a outdoors and he flashes it!

 

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/7090560673_d5f905986f.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1664)Connor fighting on the 6b+ at Espero Primavera  

 

Day 3 of the coaching was depressingly wet, but that didn’t stop us Scottish (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)  We got rained of the wet slabs at Grau dels Massets in the morning, then headed to the single dry overhang of “El tiempo se ha reido de los que no han venido” (6c), which David and Sam had already top rope flashed on their first day. Connor and Matthew were super keen to do this redpoint having already tried it on the first day and since it was the only route dry, we all headed back to try it.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/6944482014_b489cfebdc.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1665)Espero Primavera is one of my favourite sectors in Siurana not simply because of its beautiful climbing, but also the setting (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By the end of the third day, David and Sam both succeeded in leading the route whilst Robert, Connor and Matthew al top-roped it on redpoint.

 

On day 4 we headed back to Espero Primavera under the assumption that if it rained again, we would have more than one or two routes that were dry (being one of the only crags in Siurana guaranteed to stay out of the rain). In the morning, Connor and Matthew made impressive lead ascents of the ultimo classico 6a+ flake “Marieta de l’ull viu”. Sam and David also did this (Robert was resting) as well as a top rope onsight of the hard 6b+ slab “Lamparos toca el Dos”.

 

After warming up there, we swapped places with Busby’s group and took on the mega routes at El Cargol (the pillar). The boys had all tried at least one 7a this trip but with the exception of David, none had made an ascent. I was eager for everyone to achieve their grade goal of 7a in the next couple of days but I was unsure of what to get them on.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/6944546258_44c849d321.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1667)El Cargol Pillar - 40+m of mega sustained climbing! On the right you have the 7a+ and on the left a 6c+ - two of the best pitches I have ever done!!! I ended up putting a top-rope on the 40m pillar 7a+ “Purgandus Populus” with the notion that because its mega long, perhaps the moves won’t be so hard. In truth it was definitely sustained, but with two obvious cruxes, one low at around 15m height (above the chain of the first 6a pitch) and another high in the last 10m of climbing. The upper crux wasn’t too physical but still very blowable whilst the lower crux required fresh fingertips and some power reserve for the powerful locks between small pockety edges.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/7090620317_27ba54599c.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1666)Sam on the start of the 6c+ flake on El Cargol - You begin the adventure within the pillar itself, clambering out of it, onwards and upwards into the sky!  

Upon climbing the route I have to say that its probably one of the best pitches I have ever climbed, whilst the 6c+ to the left probably stands out as being the single best pitch (with the exception of “Tom et je ris”) I have ever done. I watched in total astonishment as David and Sam walked up this route (not without a fight) in good style, their first 7a+ flash and first attempted of the grade outdoors. Connor and Matthew next up fought hard, Connor even managed to make it to the last crux before falling, but unfortunately they were left without the tick by the end of the day.

 

2/5 of the boys had ticked a 7a or harder, only 3 to go. Everyone had climbed at least 13/20 of their total number of routes to climb clean, so we were well on our way to achieving the trip goals.

 

Day 5 was aimed at finishing of goals, Matthew had to leave unfortunately as his dad was leaving early due to the leg injury suffered on the first day. Connor was leaving that night and still had a 7a or harder to tick as well as 7 routes clean before the end of the day. David and Sam only had 5 routes to tick before they reached 20 clean routes – an impressive fact to behold was that David hadn’t actually fallen of a single route during the whole trip, I don’t think I was pushing him hard enough (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

 

I really wanted to see Connor get his 7a tick if possible, so the night before we viewed video footage of him climbing the 7a+ “Purgandus Populus” in an effort to suss out the beta and get him up it clean on redpoint. Early on we warmed up at a new sector I hadn’t been to before called A Can de Can a Prop. We where pretty disappointed with this sector to be honest, it didn’t have the nicest routes and we got pretty wet when it started to rain. We rushed away to El Cargol after getting wet so that Robert and Connor could get on the 7a+.

 

Today was truly Connor’s day… he went for “Purgandus Populus” early on but due to the rain, the first 6a pitch had gotten wet and he fell off on easy ground. It took some effort to get Connor’s mind focused for the route, he was starting to get major redpoint nerves (I could tell having had them a lot before myself). I managed to get him psyched up for another attempt – it went well until the first crux when he hesitated far too long eyeing up the jug he was meant to be going for, he powered out, then fell… Frustrated Connor lost a lot of confidence, but after a while he got psyched again and went for his third attempt.

 

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/7090608425_e3f50b1c7b.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1673)David on the 6c that he later lead! Connor’s third attempt at “Purgandus Populus” was one of the most inspiring ascents in climbing I have ever seen. Connor is only 10 years old, yet his determination, drive and focus to keep fighting and never give up was as strong as I’ve seen in climbers with more than his lifetimes experience climbing on rock. There were moments when he hesitated and forgot the sequence, yet he never let go… he battled and battled up the wall, fighting for every move as if it might be his last. He fought his way through all the cruxes up until the very last move of the very last crux, I saw him hesitate, eyeing the jug as he had before on the lower crux one attempt before – but this time was different, he knew what he had to do. In one powerful pull and a power scream to match he launched for the jug, latching it in a vice like grip fueled by adrenaline and lactic acid! If I could give a fight half as much as what Connor had given that day, I think I would have climbed 9a a dozen times by now (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  His effort has inspired me to try harder than ever on routes and that’s saying a lot! Connor topped out on the pillar, successful and exhausted after around an hours fight.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/6944521400_8c02aec2f5_z.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1668)It's tough being a kid - Robert struggles to reach the first holds on the 6c even with cheat stones!  

The funny thing is, after half an hours rest he was up for more, still with five routes left to tick before heading home. Robert was next up on the pillar, making an impressive flash on “Purgandus Populus” after Connor’s ascent giving us 4/5 7a+ ascents in the group – not bad for their first rock trip (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)

 

To finish off the day we all headed to one last crag, L’Aparador, to get some last minute easy routes done before everyone went home. Connor got the rest of his routes ticked (just) to make 20 clean climbs, as did the other Sam and David. Robert had missed out on two days climbing but still left with 13 climbs under his belt – Not too shabby (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

 

So that was the end of my two coaching weeks. I had hoped that by now my skin would have healed up, but unfortunately I am still having issues with it. I did a couple of 8a’s the other day as a mileage day to see how they fared. In all honesty, on 8a’s my skin is fine because I don’t really have to weight the holds too much but as soon as I step it up onto 8b’s or harder my little cuts and splits just open up wide bearing sore fleshy innards. I attempted “Pati Noso” (8c/+), the route that started my skin problems early on in the trip, but after reaching the first crux it tore another hole in my right index pad. I think it’s time to give it up for this year. The route felt well within my grade at the beginning of the trip having almost ticked it second try, but now with all the skin problems it brought, my confidence has dropped dramatically and to be frank, I’d rather go climbing than spend my last two weeks nursing my fingers before one more attempt at a route that will almost certainly split them all open again.

 

There are three 8b+’s in Siurana that I would like to do, so perhaps I will see what I can do with them after a few days rest. I am now looking forward to coming home and getting back into my routine of training and coaching before my next trip to Ceuse in July. When I get back I have the Ratho European to look forward to which hopefully I will be route setting for, the YCS Finals soon after and various Team Training days I am organizing.

 

2 MORE WEEKS!!!!!

ROBZ OUT

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/6944529614_564ac04bde_b.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1669)The best face of the trip - Matthew grins and bears it on the gnarly 6c at Can Marges!  

 

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: “El Mon de Sofia” (8b+/c) – A Mental Game!
Post by: comPiler on April 29, 2012, 01:00:35 am
“El Mon de Sofia” (8b+/c) – A Mental Game! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1684)
28 April 2012, 9:11 pm

Hey Guys!

 

I’m coming to a close on this years Spain trip. It’s all gone so fast, it seems like only yesterday that I was heading out with Andy in the plane and now it’s almost over L. I’ve had a really great time climbing in Siurana this year both in terms of personal climbing and with my friends those new and old.

 

This year’s trip has certainly been an educational one for me. Although I ticked the hardest grade I’ve ever climbed, I definitely got my butt spanked on a few other routes of different styles proving yet again that being proficient at a grade is incredibly hard. Style comes into play massively as well as confidence and mental strength – an area that I am going to be training specifically from now on.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/6838389414_4436200f89_z-copy.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1686)

I climbed another 8b+ yesterday (my 14th at the grade), this one called “El Mon de Sofia”. This route is relatively new to Siurana having only been bolted in the last 2 or 3 years and was previously deemed as 8c? in the older guide. The locals give it the awkward grade of 8b+/c, so either it’s a hard 8b+ or soft 8c.

 

Moving on from grades for now – the route takes a spectacular line up the blank looking faces and bulges of El Pati (left-side). It starts up the same first bolt as “2×30” then branches immediately out right into fun compression moves on a weird bulge feature. Once your at the top of this you can sit down and relax on a nice little ledge (to here it’s probably about f7a).

 

Above you now is a daunting barrel wall with a tough little crux starting on the first move and ending at a rest one move before the second crux. The issue with the first crux is that a lot of the holds are permanently wet! The rock seems to soak in the moisture really easily and a lot of the holds feel like damp sponges from which your hands could grease off instantly without warning (something I got a bit of experience in whilst red-pointing).

 

Although the holds are damp, they are all positive. The main difficulty of this crux lies in the feet and the one awkward, slightly dangerous, clipping position that you have as the first clip halfway through the initial moves of the crux. Funny thing was I never fell of this section, but I was always very wary of the potential to. The first clip was right above a ledge, which if you fell clipping would more than certainly send you straight into. The next moves where tricky and off balance, then you had one last slap for a wet crimp before you pull yourself up into the two wet side-pull jugs that you rest on (LOVELY!).

 

The rest here was good, you were standing on one good foothold and a smear for your left with a good side-pull jug for your left and a slopey side-pull crimp for your right that you laid back off. I could definitely recover more or less fully but it certainly wasn’t the most comfortable of rests.

 

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/DSC_0022.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1689)Me attentively belaying Ross on an 8b After resting up, you head straight into what I would call the meat of the route. Although probably not physically the hardest moves, it’s a very sustained crux with lots of little technicalities and slightly lower percentage moves than you would like, especially seeing as when you get through them you still have to deal with the hardest moves on the route! The second crux involves a couple of soapy but positive crimps, the last of which you have to do a hard pull to reach a big damp gaston jug in the steepest section of the bulge. You gaston with your right hand from which you can then clip, match, then re-adjust to an undercut which gives you the position to reach up with your left hand to a really good slot. From the slot you step your left foot up on a little button then push and pull as hard as you can to make the big move to the next soapy crimp up and right. You are now entering the hardest section of the crux, a powerful move to a small sharp crimp with your left, then a stab with your right into yet another small crimp, gaston left, press, then up and right to a small flat edge, left to a thumb sprag crimp and press out right to a jug… WOOOOOOHHHHH

 

You’re now in the “Please don’t blow it territory”… although you still have the most physically demanding move still to come, it’s right after a massive rest so theoretically you should be ok. Unfortunately, conditions where not on my side the first time I arrived at the rest. It was stiflingly hot and humid, and when I made the hard move to the shallow crimp, my fingers rolled off it like they were covered in butter! Thankfully I didn’t let that happen second time round (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/DSC_0040.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1690)Ross engaging in the crux of "Pati Pa Mi" (8b) on El Pati  

After the crux move you still have some tricky moves to go, nothing that you should fall off but there is definitely foot popping potential still there and the second last move is quite a big lunge for a flat side pull that’s hard to catch (that was scary!).

 

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/DSC_0060.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1691)Nat on "Pren Nota" (8a) - Video coming soon... “El Mon de Sofia” took me around six or seven goes in total spread across three or four days. For me, this was more of a challenge than “2×30” for the sheer fact that there are just so many places to fall off. It’s not as sustained but the potential to fall of at the top is a lot higher. On “2×30” you could fall of at the crux a load of times, lower off, have 10mins rest, then get back on it (one time you’ll do the crux and go to the top). With “El Mon de Sofia” it felt like I could fail in the middle crux a lot as well as fall in the final crux!

 

Doing this route in the last week of the trip after having a long period of relatively no tickage was a big boost in confidence. I had lost a lot already from having failed on “Pati Noso” (8c/+). In all honesty, I kind of gave up the ghost on that route a long time ago. It was trashing my skin every time I got on it and I felt like I wasn’t getting to go climbing much because of that. I am intending on coming back next year to finish it off, this time I know what I need to do to do it, all I have to do is come back, armed with another year of training and smash it to a pulp!!!

 

This trip has been a massive eye opener once again into the world of the mental processes involved in climbing. I have seen many climbers fail due to pressure, whether it’s on one specific route, or a number of routes or just expectations. I have come to realize that in order to achieve the best results and climb to your best abilities, you need to have a strong mindset that has been built to deal with the pressures you put on it. I know I put a lot of pressure on myself, I am very open about wanting to improve and achieve higher and harder year after year. I think being like this does leave me open to personal performance demons, but this is something I can train for sure.

 

In the last few weeks I have been working hard on a presentation on mental training that I will be providing for youth competition climbers when I get back. Work on this has allowed me to spend a bit more time than I usually do thinking about this side of the performance table. I am already putting steps in motion to develop a really good mental training program both for the kids I coach and myself. I have known for years just how important the mental game is, but sometimes it’s easy to forget to train it when you get so caught up in the other aspects of climbing that seem more important (but really aren’t).

 

Stay tuned on the training blog as I will be writing up some mental training blogs soon enough.

 

On one last note, I tried the 8b+/c direct to “El Mon de Sofia” called “Project Moro”. It shared the first and second crux but takes a much more sustained line than “El Mon de Sofia”. I actually think it might be one of the best routes I have ever tried! After the second crux you get a good rest on some flat jugs, then head straight into a technical crimpy section before reaching another OK rest (shared with “2×30”) which sends you into the crux, a powerful sequence on undercuts and crimps finishing off finally with a very techy, sequency finale with little rest right until the lip of El Pati, 40m in the air! AMAZING!!!

 

I’m gonna climb tomorrow if it stops raining soon and see maybe if I can do the variation either then or in the following days of the trip… We will see…

PSYCHED!

 

ROBZ OUT

 

 

 

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: “Project Moro” (8b+) – A Surprise Ascent
Post by: comPiler on April 30, 2012, 07:00:12 pm
“Project Moro” (8b+) – A Surprise Ascent (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1703)
30 April 2012, 3:47 pm

Hey Guys

Just a quickie seeing as I blogged quite a bigg’un the other day (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)

Well, you know how I said I was off to try this variation on “El Mon de Sofia” (8b+/c) called “Project Moro” (8b+/c)… (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  It was really funny actually. The weather had been rather bad during the night, very stormy and wet. Nat and I woke up to wet bags and shoes in the opening to our tent as the zip to our door has broken (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)  A little annoying, yet another reason to pass my driving test and buy a van! As the weather had been bad, we suspected that the crag may be wet and that waiting until the afternoon might be a better idea. I was keen just to have a rest day and climb our last two days on. Come around 13:00, Ross really wants to get down to the crag and try his project, “Pati Pa Mi’ (8b). I pointed out that now the sun is out it might be a better idea to wait until the evening and perhaps get some better conditions then… I saw the frustration in Ross’ face as he really wanted to go down, so in the end we decided to just head and see what was happening at the crag.

On arrival, what ever had once been wet was now dry thanks to the sun, the only issue being both “Project Moro” and “Pati Pa Mi” were in the full blast of it and it was pretty darn hot! I decided in the end to just go for it as I wasn’t 100% sure what I was doing at the top having only been on the upper section once before. One thing to note before I go on: I have been reading a number of good books recently on sport psychology and have been attempting to build myself a better, stronger routine to help settle any nerves or doubts before redpoint attempts. Before getting on, I ran my routine and got zoned in to what I was about to do. I repeated to myself the words, “Just Climb”, over and over to focus myself less on the outcome and more on the process.

I climbed the first section easily, using it as a warm up. The second crux, shared with “El Mon de Sofia” felt tough, but despite this I got through it with the phrase “Just Climb” ringing in my head. I looked up and saw the start of “Project Moro” looming above. I was resting out on a couple of two finger pockets and saw the mega rest of “El Mon de Sofia” out right but thought that taking that would be cheating, so instead I pressed on through a technical, easyish section to reach a couple of flat jugs before the route really starts. As I looked up from these, I got nervous again thinking of the outcome, so I controlled my breathing, slowed my heart rate and focussed on the phrase “Just Climb”. Suddenly I felt better again, all thoughts of failing or any outcome for that matter drifted away like bubbles. I pressed on into the next moves, higher and higher I got, and more and more pumped! I managed to stay tuned into the sequence but made a few errors that I was able to quickly correct.

I reached yet another rest on some undercuts just before the crux sequence. Thoughts drifted in again:

“I’m pumped, the crux is here, what if I fail? I’m so tired, maybe I should just take a rest on the rope?”

I knocked them out quickly with my mantra and foucssed again. What was wrong with giving it your all and failing. I think I would feel worse if I knew I could have tried but didn’t. It got to a point where I was just pumped and not recovering, so I pressed on into the crux, ready for battle! An amazing thing happened suddenly, I was climbing, I was pumped but I wasn’t receding. Thoughts were all positive and I felt like I was going to do this. Before I knew it I was through the crux and mantled on a small foothold with some small crimps to rest on. I was 35m up and 5m above me was the chains, I could just about see them over the bulge. I knew I still had one major crux to go, not as physical as the last one but still very droppable, and as well as that, to get to the crux you had to do quite a bit of techy climbing on small smeary feet and crimps in the blazing sun.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/6838389414_4436200f89_z-copy1.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1705)Ye Olde Route Map (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  After another 5 minutes I pressed on, reaching through the smeary feet section and into a quick rest on two pockets before the last crux. My mantra continued to echo in my head and like before I was confident and positive in what I had to do, “Just Climb”… So I did just that. It was hit or miss for a split second, but those words got me through it. I only just sketched my way up the last 5m of “Project Moro”, but it doesn’t really matter, I still clipped those chains!

As I clipped them, a sickening feeling hit me and I suddenly realised that I had climbed more or less 25m of 8b+/c terrain whilst being totally boxed, in the sun and under constantly restrained stress… I heard whoops from across the valley as English friends celebrated my top out.

I think that was my biggest battle in climbing yet (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

PSYCHED

ROBZ OUT

P.s. Ross also climbed “Pati Pa Mi” (8b) later that evening after attempting it in the blazing sun – sometimes conditions help (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Everything up until now…
Post by: comPiler on June 13, 2012, 07:00:08 pm
Everything up until now… (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1709)
13 June 2012, 2:31 pm

Hey Guys

 

I haven’t updated the blog since Spain for one reason and another, the other being I’ve been mega busy (which is a good thing). A number of things in particular have taken my attention from blogging but all equally which would fit well into a blog, so here it is…

EYS’s

 

The big event was of course the European Youth Cup being held at Ratho. I was part of the route setting team for this event along with Neill Busby, Neil Mcgeachy, Gary Vincent and visiting head route setter and French National Coach, Paul Dewilde.

 

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/luke_ratho_12.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1711)Luke Tilley on Paul's 8b+ (Stolen from Alpkit blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  ) It was a mental week filled with 17 hour long setting shifts streaming into the early hours of the morning. I was mainly working with Buz whilst Gary and Neil worked together to set their respective routes. Paul was on his own for the week and focused his efforts entirely on the Male Junior Final, a gnarly 8b+ on the new comp wall.

 

Buz and I had a fun week setting (as it always is when we work together). We set three routes as a team and Buz managed an extra when I had to take a day off to visit my Dad in hospital (another added bit of stress to the week when my Dad was hospitalized after he caught pneumonia).

 

Both Buz and I were happy with the routes we set both in quality and their performance in the event. For any competitors reading this, Buz and I set:

 

Youth B Girls Qualifier: Black/Orange 7c (New Comp Wall)

Youth B Girls Qualifier: Yellow 7c (Old Comp Wall)

Youth B Boys Qualifier: Green 8a (Old Comp Wall)

Youth B Boys Final + Junior Girls Final: Yellow 8b (New Comp Wall)

 

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/dom.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1712)Dominic Burns (Youth B) on me and Buz's final (Stolen from NIYCT Blog) The two girls qualifiers worked excellent and provided a perfect contrast to each other, the black/orange being steep, burly and powerful whilst the yellow being vertical to slightly overhung most of the way on small edges, balancy moves and very sequency beta. What was interesting whilst watching two young British superstars climbing them was how they provided the perfect all-round challenge to the kids. Young Molly Thompson-Smith did very well by topping the steep orange/black 7c which suited her style but unfortunately fell halfway on the Yellow whereas Tara Hayes topped the yellow and fell on the orange/black. The two contrasting styles challenged different kids in different ways, exactly what we want to do in a competition i.e. who is the best all round, not simply who is the best in one style.

 

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/5769470565_578f898c77_z.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1710)Angus focussing... The Youth Boys found our 8a really tricky and only saw one top in the whole event! This category for me was the most exciting as I had Angus Davidson and William Bosi competing in it (two boys I coach). Angus did amazingly well for his first international event taking 17th place overall. Of course he wasn’t happy with this but it’s all about getting the experience in Youth B for building up in later competitions.

 

William Bosi totally blew everyone away with an outstanding performance in the same category placing 6th place overall. It was exciting watching him on the final Buz and I had set for their category. I had no idea how he would do on the Yellow 8b. It was super sustained with a few powerful moves thrown in and little to no rest. Watching him in the final though was exhilarating to say the least. He just kept going, higher and higher, until he had surpassed my expectations and continued firing upwards to the top. He looked so comfortable moving through each section I honestly thought he would just top it! In the final roof he rested and just before moving to the next hold his foot popped and that was the end. It was frustrating seeing that but equally exciting to see how well he did in his first European. It’s also worth mentioning that he was the youngest in the category (1997-1998) being born 27th December 1998. The top guys were a year or two older than him.

 

Since Edinburgh EYS, Angus, William and I have been training hard together and they have returned from yet another EYS, this time in Voiron, France. They did fantastically well there again with 21st and 18th respectively, a good ranking for their first international away from home.

 

Edinburgh Coaching

 

So away from international events for now, I’ve been continuing my work with local kids, regular 1:1’s and organizing events here and there. The YCS final is coming up in the next couple of weeks and I have a large contingent of my local 1:1’s gunning for this. Sam Harland-Sendra (11) and Leo-Harland-Sendra (7) are two brothers I coach on a weekly basis who have both been training hard recently. Sam has been knocking down 7a+ very regularly with a few onsights at this grade as well as a lot 2nd or 3rdgo. Leo on the other hand, his training is a little less intensive being only 7, but his commitment isn’t any less.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/leo.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1713)Me and Leo on the boulders training! He has taken out his first 6c+ onsight which he was delighted with and in a recent YCS Prep Day event run by myself, Nat and Ross Kirkland, he demonstrated yet again why he is regional champ with a solid performance onsighting everything but one 6c route that he fell on the last move (he beat all but the top boys in the Youth D + C Category!).

 

Aberdeen Coaching

 

As you know I work a lot with kids from the north east city of Aberdeen as well. A week or so ago I headed up there for a massive day working with all the local beasts, specifically prepping them for the YCS Final which most of them will be competing in. I was also lucky enough to have the current Scottish Boulder Champion Scott Keirr assisting me for the whole day. I have been working with Scott on his own performance over the last year as an additional assistant to his climbing alongside John Brown (local boulder beast and coach). One thing Scott has been talking about is getting into coaching, so I have taken him on as my apprentice coach to give him some experience. He is mega keen to develop his coaching abilities as well as his climbing which I am mega psyched about, this means Scotland will have another top coach to work with our kids.

 

All the Aberdeen lot were on form and seeing their new wall built by Scott Muir at Dream Walls, NO WONDER! They now have a fantastic new training wall which should help them massively to build on their already strong climbing abilities.

 

Three kids in particular that I have seen massive gains from over the last year are Rory Cargill, Rebecca Kinghorn and Ben Findlay. Rory is a training animal and always gives 110% to everything which as we all know pays massive dividends. Rory competed in the Youth Colors at Imst a few weeks ago which although it isn’t officially a European Cup Round, it might as well be called that for Youth C and below. He placed an amazing 17th overall but apparently on the second day was 12th.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/rory.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1714)Scottish Champion - Rory Cargill  

Rebecca is a total machine and she will do amazing in whatever she goes for. She is Scottish Bouldering Champion as of the Scottish Bouldering Championships held at TCA a few weekends ago and is competing in the YCS Final next week. We had a session together at EICA a week ago where she was looking solid on 7a/+.

 

Ben Findlay is younger still than these two being in Youth C. Ben has transformed into his own climber over the last six months. He used to be just your everyday kid climber who comes in, does a few routes then leaves. Now he comes in with a plan, he’s focused and he knows what he’s aiming for. The best thing about it is you can see he wants to improve, but he also loves the whole process of getting better and always pushes himself hard. He came out to Spain with us and despite never having been on a 7a in his life, went for it and learned a lot from the experience.

 

My Own Training

 

Enough about others, more about me!!! My own training has been going well. After Spain I decided to lower the volume slightly and up the intensity. I’m doing a fair bit of fingerboard and finger strength specific bouldering but mainly I am hitting it hard on circuits with a few routes in and around them. I’ve ticked all the routes in Ratho apart from two 8b’s and an 8b+ and one of the 8b’s I am saving for an onsight attempt later on in the month. I did Gary’s 8b from the comp 2nd go and got high on the onsight too which I was pretty happy with – it felt quite easy actually, you can rest a lot on it because the holds are all positive, the crux section is the ending sequence where I fell on the onsight (red volume), it’s just a bit sequency. Nat fell on the last moves of it the other day too so if she does it then she will have the second ascent (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  I do get that psyched for indoor routes!

 

I am feeling fit at the moment and pretty strong so hopefully it will transfer onto rock when I hit up Yorkshire over the coming months. I was hoping to go to France this summer but with all my work currently I might have to hold out until next year. I do have Kalymnos in October and I am contemplating going for 2 weeks before coaching to try and tick an 8c+ I like the look of there, we will see (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

 

Anyway, I promise to keep things more up to date from now on – I have a few videos to post soon too so stay tuned!

 

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Malham Cove Youth Crushing!
Post by: comPiler on June 19, 2012, 01:00:51 am
Malham Cove Youth Crushing! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1719)
18 June 2012, 11:17 pm

Hey Guys

For all those gracing the Malham catwalk last weekend you will have noticed a slightly higher concentration of youth climbers pulling on the harsh polished limestone routes than usual.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/malham-first-day.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1728)Malham on the first day... This was because the MCofS had organised an Elite Coaching day at Malham and I was down there coaching. We had two days climbing altogether (and an evening for myself and Nat on Friday) and in that time every kid did seriously well.

The team included:

Angus Davidson (Team Member)

William Bosi (Team Member)

Alex Waterhouse (Team Member)

Eleanor Hopkins (Team Member)

Rebecca Drummond (Top Scottish Youth Climber and Aspiring Team Member)

Eilidh Vas Payne (Top Scottish Youth Climber and Aspiring Team Member)

Robert Davidson (Top Scottish Youth Climber and Aspiring Team Member)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/malham.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1729)A dry catwalk during the rainy Saturday Everyone with the exception of the last three had been to Malham before, but for those that hadn’t, Malham blew them away with both the high quality and quantity of climbing available. Most of these kids are too used to going outdoors at crappy local quarries, however when confronted with the beautiful, towering cove in Yorkshire, they were gob smacked!

When Nat and I arrived on Friday evening, we rushed to make the crag before the sun set so we could get a cheeky few climbs in before work the next day. On arriving we met up with some old friends we met last year climbing at Malham, Jordan and Naomi Buys. It was good seeing friendly faces after a year since our last trip. I was keen to try out “Bat Route” (8c) whilst Nat was just happy to be climbing out on rock and decided to try whatever took her fancy.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/robbie-bat-route.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1732)Engaging in the crux (V6) of "Bat Route" 8c First attempt on “Bat Route”, I climbed to the first anchor without a hitch (“Seventh Aardvark” 7b) and then sat on the bolts to figure the sequence out. Luckily I had Jordan below me shouting beta which always makes things easier. When I got acquainted with the hand and foot holds I went for an attempt at the first crux. I think in it’s own right, the first bloc is probably about V6 (F7A) – you get a good rest on a sidepull jug above the chains on “Seventh Aardvark”, then do a tricky move with a high right foot into a small sharp broken undercut crimp with your right hand. From here you stick a heel in the lower jug, shake your left hand briefly before moving into a positive undercut crimp with your left. You then step your left foot into a smear, pop your right foot up onto a spike and drop your knee to hold you close so you can move your right hand into yet another undercut crimp (much better now) before moving your left into an even better undercut crimp (Lots of undercuts – Welcome to Malham). This is the controversial bit, from here I move straight into the big jug out right from which I can then get a good kneebar no hands rest and chill before the next section. Most people it seems go to a small tooth before moving to the jug, however I found it easier to go straight into the jug (happy days).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/eilidh.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1727)Eilidh having fun From here I found the rest quite OK on it’s own. The only move I really struggled on was after the rest, you do a tricky boulder crux with a dynamic move to a positive crimp then a hard throw left to catch a jug with really bad feet. I found it awkward more than anything but all I need really is a little practice and I’m sure it won’t feel hard on link. From the end on the initial V6 bloc it’s probably 8a to the top, very do-able in my opinion. On the Sunday I got another attempt which first time on I linked straight through from the ground to the rest and had to come down as the rest was wet (hopefully in a few weekends time I will come back and get some better links with a dry headwall).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/alex-warming-up.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1724)Alex making use of the Crusher Holds Wood Grips The Kids had much better success on their routes. On the first day of coaching we selected our warm up routes and I set up my new Crusher Wood Grips so the kids could keep warm throughout the day without trashing skin on easier climbs. The warm ups were the usual suspects of course:

After warming up, some of the kids got on some flash/onsight attempts whilst other got on potential projects. Alex did incredibly well with an impressive flash of “Free and Even Easier” (7a+), whilst Eleanor repeated “Rose Coronary” and then attempted “Free and Even Easier” as a redpoint. Rebecca got stuck into “Consenting Adults” (7a) and quickly depsatched it before moving on to working “Seventh Aardvark” (7b).  Eilidh meanwhile started work on “Consenting Adults” (7a) alongside Robert whilst his brother Angus attacked “New Dawn” (7c) and William bolt to bolted his way up “GBH” (8a+).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Angus-new-dawn.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1726)Angus on "New Dawn" (7c) The most impressive ascent of the first day has to go to Alex who grabbed the chains on “Raindogs” (8a) with only one attempt working the moves that day – BEAST!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/william-gbh.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1733)William on "GBH" (8a+) Angus and William looked very strong on both their routes. Angus struggled a lot with the lower crux of “New Dawn” but had the rest dialed whilst William got every move on “GBH” after work. Both were looking good for some good redpoint attempts the following day had it not been for the cascading waterfall coming down the tops of each route on sunday (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)

Well it wasn’t quite a waterfall but a wet hold at Malham isn’t anything to be happy about. It wasn’t just their routes though, “Bat Route” was sodden on the upper half so I could only attempt up to the end of the first crux. At the end of the last day I got one attempt at it and was pleasantly surprised to link from the bottom all the way through the crux. This was really good for my first attempt at it and I’m super psyched to go back and finish it off!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/alex-raindogs.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1722)Alex grabbing the chains!!! DISPATCHED!!! Meanwhile, Eilidh was trying to finish of “Consenting Adults” (7a), so I ran over her tactical game play for the route i.e. rest points, check points and what to focus on in each section. Needless to say, Eilidh went on to cruise up it without much effort. She is definitely capable of climbing a lot harder!

Rebecca and Eleanor were going well on “Seventh Aardvark” at the same time and before long, Rebecca made the first ascent of the day followed closely by Eleanor minutes later. They then started work on the vicious “Something Stupid” (7b) that Alex had flashed earlier on in the morning. Alex was going well on his second day at Malham, choosing volume over intensity as he went about climbing all the mid 7′s on the central wall with the likes of “Something Stupid” (7b), “Rated PG” (7a+) and “Bongo Fury” (7b) included in the list.

“Raindogs” now had a wave of pre-teen attacks on it with Angus and William now focussing their efforts on this thanks to the rain. Also on the wet dog mission was young Aiden Dunne who had been working the route for the last few weeks. I encouraged/forced Aiden to give the boys as much beta as possible, but after watching him use all the non-holds most people avoid I thought it might be better to just let William and Angus figure it out on their own (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/william-raindogs.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1734)William on his incredible flash attempt Angus did really well and within a couple of goes was making it to the resting point half-way. William did phenomenally well on his flash, failing high up between the 4th and 5th clip. On his way down after working the upper section he then blamed me for not allowing him to wait two years so he could on-sight it (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  The arrogance of youth… but actually I think he probably would just on-sight it if he had left it a couple of years (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

Aiden then went on to despatch “Raindogs” in a brilliant performance that silenced the crag as he climbed. He then became the youngest Brit to climb 8a being only 12 years old! William and Angus are both keen to come back and finish it off sometime in the coming weeks, but for now we are focussing on their next competition in Lintz, Austria!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/robbie-bat-route-hang.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1730)I chalked up like this... OH YEAH!!! By the end of the day, everyone was knackered and skin was growing thin. We finished up at 15:30 for the drive north, quite content with our weekends climbing. For both myself and Nat, we had a pleasant stay at Malham not burdened with the usual pressures of our own projects and happily content just to help the youth of today get some mileage on rock – thats not to say that Nat didn’t get some climbing in too though. In usual style Nat cruised basically everything she touched with on-sights of every route she tried up to 7b and the only route harder than 7b she did try was “Bat Route” on which she looked more than capable of doing on her attempts through the crux! Maybe something for the future after she’s back fighting fit from injury, studies and her year abroad (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)

Anyway, this is a big week for me now. Last minute preps for all the kids leading up to the YCS finals and I’ll be working with some southern Irish super Wads on Sunday (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)

PSYCHED!!!

ROBZ OUT

P.s. All photos nicked off Phil Waterhouse’s Facebook (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)  I’m sure he won’t mind (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_surprised.gif)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/alex-bongo.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1721)Alex on his final attempt at "Wasted Youth" - I think his fingers were reduced to stumps by now (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: YCS Finals – EICA: Ratho
Post by: comPiler on June 24, 2012, 01:01:07 am
YCS Finals – EICA: Ratho (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1742)
23 June 2012, 11:37 pm

Hey Guys!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/busy-day.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1769)Busy day at Ratho (330 competitors!!!) What a day it’s been. I’ve been at EICA: Ratho all day manning the Evolv boot demo stand whilst simultaneously coaching my kids taking part in the finals of the YCS. It’s been pretty hectic and I can’t quite put into words just how tired I am, it’s a miracle I still have energy to write blogs and post pictures (although I just did down 8 Oreos with a glass of milk, that might have given me something extra (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  ).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/David-strong.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1770)David Miedzybrodski getting ready to demo! So, today is the day that 330 kids around the country have been looking forward to since the regional rounds finished. For Scotland that was earlier in the year (back in February) so for them it has been a longer wait. All the kids that I coach regularly have been training really hard for this day and I can say without a doubt that the rewards have more than certainly been reaped from their hard work.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/leo-final.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1772)Leo fighting the final route! I got to the wall with Nat early in the morning to set up the stall for the boot demo. Most of the kids had arrived even by then for registration and warm up. I quickly got set up and then began my hunt for as many of my padawans as possible. Everyone seemed fired up and raring to go, there were a few signs of nervous excitement but nothing that posed too much of a worry. Everyone just seemed really happy to be at the final and to be competing with friends in such a fun and motivating environment. The atmosphere of Ratho was exhilarating to say the least, when you bring together so many psyched young climbers the aura of the place really blossoms.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Sam-finak-happy.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1773)Sam happy after a good performance The kids that I coach regularly who were competing today included boys and girls in most of the Youth categories. To save writing a post of epic proportions of every detail from today I will put the end results below followed by a few key moments from the day:

E (2003-2004)

D (2001-2002)

C (1999-2000)

A (1995-1996)

 

In Youth E, young Leo was attending his first ever YCS final. I coach Leo and his brother Sam at Ratho most weeks and I can say without a doubt that the pair of them certainly have it in their genes. Their dad is french (which I reckon is where their awesome technique comes from) and they have a brilliant head for comps (apart from when Sam goes in a huff (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  ). Leo did fantastically well placing 2nd and considering this is his first ever YCS Final, it’s some achievement! It was really inspiring watching Leo flash all the boulder problems and do so well in all the routes. His style is very similar to that of top european competition climbers i.e. fast, strong, efficient. He doesn’t waste any time and was probably the fastest of all the competitors on the field.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Scottbeaker.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1775)Spot The Difference (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/beakerscott.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1777)  Sam in Youth C beat his previous result from last year (24th) by coming 4th! He wasn’t just 4th, he was 1 point of 3rd place podium finish which is an excellent improvement from last year. The most impressive part of this was his comeback after fluffing up his second qualifier route, something which he was more than capable of flashing but made some little errors that cost him the top that would have placed him strongly in 3rd position.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Scott-champion.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1774)Scott happy with his victory! I think though that although Scotland South won the team position against Scotland North, it was Scotland North that devastated the competition with three winners which I think might be a record for them?!?!?

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Leo-Champ.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1771)Leo happy with his first ever YCS Final performance (2nd place!) Scott Keirr (YA), Rebecca Kinghorn (YB) and Rebekah Drummond (YA) all came away with 1st place podium finishes. Scott has been focussing solely on his bouldering which I gave him a training program to follow for. His next big comp is the BBC’s which he is hoping to crush and show the British Bouldering Team Managers what he is made of. Rebecca Kinghorn in usual style creeped her way to the top in a slow but strong style. Her ability to lock on tiny edges amazes me! And finally Rebekah Drummond has proven that hard work and training pays off as well as an insatiable hunger for success. Winning the YCS was a big goal for Rebekah this year and since she started training, she has been making massive steps to becoming the top female climber in Scotland – lets see where she takes it from here (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Bekah-happy.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1768)Rebekah chuffed with her victory in Youth A Girls - What's next for the young climbing prodigy? In the end, there were no tears, maybe a few disappointed faces but everyone improved from previous results which is all we can ask for, that and to have fun (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)  I’m now as psyched as ever to see were all these amazing youth climbers are going to take their climbing in the next year – only time will tell…

 

ROBZ OUT

TOP RESULTS + 

SCOTTISH RESULTS

 

GIRLS E

BOYS E



(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/YE-Boys.jpg)

GIRLS D

BOYS D

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/YD-Boys.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1749) GIRLS C

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/YC-Girls.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1748) BOYS C

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/YC-Boys.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1747) GIRLS B

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/YB-Girls.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1746) BOYS B

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/YB-Boys.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1745) GIRLS A

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/YA-Girls.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1744) BOYS A

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/YA-Boys.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1743)



Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Cork Youth Climbing Club Coaching
Post by: comPiler on June 25, 2012, 01:00:19 am
Cork Youth Climbing Club Coaching (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1785)
24 June 2012, 7:57 pm

Hey Guys

Today was another fun day at the big EICA. After all the excitement from yesterday I was unsure of how many of the kids would be there for a second day… turns out a lot! Nat and I were coaching a big group of Irish kids who had come through for their first taste of Ratho and the YCS Finals. None of these kids had competed before and most had only been climbing for a year but they were all mega psyched and keen to rip up the walls of Ratho.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/cork.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1786)CORK YOUTH CLIMBING CLUB The format for the day was to cover good warm up tactics for competition, get a bit of practice on-sighting on the long Ratho walls, have another go on some of the routes and boulders from the comp, and finally listen to me lecturing on the mental zone (a presentation I ran for the Elite Team earlier on in the year).(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/robbie-coaching-1.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1787)

The kids in the group today included 5 young beasts from Cork, David, Luke, Cormac, Hannah and Yasmine. It was good seeing the level these kids have achieved with relatively little experience climbing and with such small facilities in the south of Ireland. I think this speaks volumes for the support they get from their parents and coaches who work with them regularly i.e. Damien O’Sulliven and Neal McQuaid.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/robbie-coaching.jpg)

David was older than the rest of the Cork crew and was climbing at a really high standard. In Youth A David placed 11th overall, pretty awesome considering he hasn’t been climbing that long. I watched that day as he continued to impress looking very close at on-sighting several 7c’s and 7b+’s as well as giving the super final (8a) that was never used a good blast at the end of the day!

Cormak, Hannah, Luke and Yasmine all had a fantastic day too. We started of with some on-sight practice on a cheeky 6b that they all got very high up on before falling with the exception of Yas who attempted a fun 5+ and did really well.

Later in the afternoon, I ran a presentation/lecture on the mental zone, a topic quite close to my heart. Sport psychology is something i have great interest in and its been fun implementing all that I have learned to the coaching of young climbers. The Irish kids grasped the concepts I was discussing well and I think it will make a big difference to the way they view competitions, climbing and performance on a day to day basis.(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/robbie-coaching-3.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1788)

Altogether this has been a good weekend and meeting the Cork crew was excellent. I am hoping that we can build a good relationship between the Cork Team and our Scottish crew for future training events and competitions (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)

ROBZ OUT

 

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: shark on June 28, 2012, 09:38:51 am
Robbie - OK if I split the posts on grading Bat route etc into a separate thread?
Title: Re: Robbie's Blog
Post by: Robbie_Phillips on July 04, 2012, 08:29:38 pm
Sorry for the late reply - yeah no worries
Title: NEW SPONSORS!!!
Post by: comPiler on July 05, 2012, 01:00:12 am
NEW SPONSORS!!! (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1793)
4 July 2012, 8:05 pm

GO OATY!

Hey Guys

Big news for Natalie and I! We have both acquired a fun and exciting new sponsor to further support our climbing careers. This new sponsor of ours is an Edinburgh based company that many of you may have heard off due to their massively popular snacks, the Stoats Porridge Bars!(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/stoats-porridge-bars.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1794)

Me and Natalie first became fans of these oaty bars whilst training at EICA: Ratho. We are always on the lookout for tasty healthy snacks to eat during our training sessions that provide optimum energy release throughout the whole day as well as keeping us light and not too full. The Stoats Porridge Bars quickly became our food of choice and have been fueling our training sessions ever since.(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/stoats_porridge_pot.png) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1796)

The story of Stoats is of two young lads that hitting music festivals with their mates and burdened with the constant lack of a healthy snack that they could take with them that would keep them going strong all day long. This was when the first idea of Stoats arrived, initially as them selling Porridge out of their mobile porridge bar, it grew and grew with new ideas for products and eventually they struck gold with their immense idea of a porridge bar!

These days there is yet more to the company than just porridge and bars! They sell all sorts of goodies including oat based breakfast cereal, oatcakes and cute little mini porridge bars.

Oaty Beta!

As with many cereals, the health benefits of oats are widely talked about, with new research being published on a regular basis. It is now known that oats can help stabilise blood sugar levels with their low GI, slow release energy – this makes them particularly good for those at risk of type 2 diabetes. They are also a rich source of beta glucan – a type of fibre that is known to lower cholesterol and can reduce the risk factors associated with coronary heart disease.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Stoats-Poster-Vis-blog-600x856.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1795)

Nat and I are really excited to be involved with such a unique product and innovative company and are really looking forward to bringing tasty oaty goodness to the climbing community.

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Yorkshire is “Supercool”
Post by: comPiler on July 23, 2012, 07:00:25 am
Yorkshire is “Supercool” (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1800)
23 July 2012, 12:06 am

Hey Guys!

The last 3 days has been fun from start to finish. Nat and I have been away on a short trip to the UK sport climbing mecca of Yorkshire. As much as we love hopping on planes and jet setting off to sun baked crags in central Europe, we still find ourselves coming back to the land of puddings, rippers and grumpy farmers. To be frank, you can’t go that wrong when you’ve got a 30minute drive radius from three of the biggest and best limestone crags in the country (Kilnsey, Malham and Gordale).(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/tent.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1809)

I have spent only a few days in Kilnsey and that was a number of years ago now. Unfortunately we didn’t get a chance to visit this time but I’m looking forward to future trips. Malham is where I have spent most of my time in Yorkshire and I can’t quite get enough of it. Everytime I go there I find new routes that entice me, keeping that flame for Malham burning. Until this trip I had never actually climbed at Gordale crag, but if you read on you’ll hear that I am glad I didn’t leave it any longer.

Day 1 – Malham on the Upper Tier

Three of us (myself, Nat and Will Carroll) drove down on the Friday afternoon to make it there by the evening. It was a leisurely journey with a few hours spent in Penrith dining at a very nice Italian restaurant Will had recommended. The following day we were meeting up with pro photographer and film maker Jen Randall as she was wanting to film Nat for an upcoming climbing movie. As well as Jen, we were also meeting up with some old friends Chris and Catherine Speakman who are lucky enough to live in the village of Settle only 10minutes drive from Malham!!!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/7625377104_dcec7d4bc6_c.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1802)Nat climbing "L'obsession" (7c+) - Photo by Will Caroll As we were there for only a short while we decided to do quicker ticks on easier routes (that and everything else was wet). We headed up to the Upper tier and attempted our first routes of the trip, “Herbie” (7c+) for myself and Nat, and “Obsession” (7b+) for Will. I had a good onsight burn on “Herbie” falling off high into the final crux whilst Nat’s on her flash attempt was similar, falling only a couple of moves lower down. We both busted it out on our second attempt without much trouble, both climbing it in very different styles:

Nat – Slow, precise and completely statico!!!

Robbie – Fast, fluid and definitely not static (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/DSC_0484.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1806)It’s crazy watching Nat climb the same moves as me but in her own unique style. When I climb dynamically, she is generally very controlled. A good example of this was half-way through the crux on “Herbie” – you take a positive, fat pinch with your right hand and pull through to an even better pinch with your left. For me this was a big move and one that I preferred to do quickly… Nat just latched that pinch with vice-like grip and continued to lock slowly from straight arm to a completely full lock before she slowly release her left hand and eased it up to reach the next pinch with as much control and precision as a robotic arm in one of those Xsara Picasso adverts (I think she’s from outer space – that or an android from the future).

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/jen-and-nat.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1803)Jen + Nat filming - Photo by Will Caroll Will had already started battling with “Obsession” (7b+) alongside Chris who had joined us for the day. Nat and I moved onto our next climb for the day, a spicy little number recommended by a fellow climber at the crag, “L’Obsession” (7c+). I was keen to try my hand at onsighting this as I had made quite a good attempt on “Herbie”. Unfortunately I didn’t quite make it, I fell off on the last move of the crux (but only just). After climbing through and to the top I feel that if I had made the move I would actually have done the climb from there, but hey ho, thats just how the ball rolls in this old game we call onsight climbing.

It was Nat’s turn now, I gave her as much beta as I could and she went for the flash attempt – this I think was the best climbing I saw all weekend! Nat cruised the crux making it look about 6a and then pathed up to the last clip at which point she got confused, I forgot what holds she was to use and she kind of gave up. She had an amazing burn on the flash, it’s the best climbing I have seen her do at Malham and everyone was super impressed. Feeling as though I better do something quick before she burns me off again, I mustered up some psyche and quickly despatched “L’obsession” on my second try (it felt a lot easier after watching Nat climb it so well). Nat had a second go burn on it but unfortunately messed up then end more due to lack of skin than anything else in my opinion.

It was time to call it a day, so we headed back to camp and rested well before tomorrows climbing…

Day 2 – Malham Filming

Today was not my day, this was mostly dedicated to Nat and her film crew (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  Jen Randall and Dom Bush filmed Nat climbing “L’obsession” (on the send) early on then got some good footage of her attempting “Toadall Recall” (8a). I attempted to retro-flash this route placing the draws as my first route of the day. I first tried this climb about 3 years ago, only once and had forgotten everything about it mostly so I was very happy when I made it through all the hard climbing and fell stupidly from the final crimpy face section staring at the chains. It wasn’t so bad as I did it second go and it felt quite steady for the grade.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/willc1.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1808)Will high on "Obsession" (7b+) Nat tried it after I set up the ropes for filming. I bigged her up for the flash as I thought it would suit her. In general I think it did suit her style, but sometimes its difficult to tell if certain moves that I find “not too bad” won’t be too shouldery or powerful for her. There is a big difference between girls and guys generally and although Nat could be stronger than me on some route types, powerful and shouldery moves are always going to be easier for me thanks to my height and genetically superior upper body strength (because I’m a guy). There was one move (the crux) up high that Nat basically couldn’t reach without an insanely awkward and very contorted hand sequence – the move for me was a basic right hand press to reach a good crimp, hardly even worth calling the crux once I figured out the best foot beta.

Will was making fantastic progress on “Obsession” and had successfully made one of the coolest moves I’ve ever seen apart of his routine sequence (see pic). On the last attempt of the day, after he literally said to me whilst tying his climbing shoes “I’ll just take the draws down when I reach the top”, he made the send! It was a good climb and I can quite happily say that I think it was the best I’ve seen Will climb in all the years I’ve known him – GOOD JOB!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/willc2.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1810)Will's crazy move! Day 3 – Gordale… GOARN!!!!!!!!

GORDALE IS A VERY WOODY WORD ISN’T IT!?!?!?!

As I said before, I have never actually climbed here before yet I have heard so much about it! I have suffered years of friends telling me epic tales of climbing in the mega crag of Gordale. Fights 30+ metres up on “Supercool” (8a+) and other such giant routes that call Gordale home.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/robbie-supercool.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1804)Me high on "Supercool" (8a+) - Photo by Will Caroll Today I was keen to give this mega monolithic route a good go. I had a funny idea that I could give “Supercool” a good onsight burn, then hopefully do it second go, then try “Huecool” (8b) and hopefully do that second go too (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  That would be a good day! Things never go quite as planned and if they had then I think I would probably be a little upset as I wouldn’t have a totally awesome 8b to go back and try.

My onsight attempt on “Supercool” was really good! I made it fairly high into the route making it through the first crux and failing tickling the good hold on the second (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)  I felt it was not so bad as a second go would surely be on after working the moves a bit more. Realistically, I should have done this second go… I did all the cruxes and I was high up in the final few metres when I tickled a crimp a little lower than I had expected to get it which caused my nail to ping of the hold causing a sudden lapse of balance and sent me flying off the route. A wee bit angry with my stupid error, I got my “stuff” together and despatched 3rd try (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)

I then quickly equipped “Huecool” (8b) knowing well that we hadn’t much time left before we would head back home. “Huecool” was definitely a step up from “Supercool”. I thought it odd though that the rock was very snappy, I figured this being a classic 8b with relatively a lot of traffic that the rock might have been a bit stronger… I quickly found out that this wasn’t the case. I didn’t get a good chance at working the crux properly but it felt pretty standard for an 8b crux (if a little bit tenuous) and I can’t wait to get back there to finish it off!

Nat had a really good day at Gordale starting off with a mega flash burn on “Supercool” followed by an equally impressive second go attempt that saw her reaching the very final crux move (which she will need to figure out new beta for because it is obviously too spanned for her using my beta). After that she finished the day off onsighting the very awesome looking 7b+ “Revival” which she positively breezed up not accounting for the 100mph winds that day (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/robbie-supercool1.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1805)Photo by Will Carrol Will also had a good day making a great attempt at “Revival” falling on the final crux section. Other friends of ours at the crag today Chris and James spent their time working the beastly looking 7b “Last Dog”. By the end of the day Chris got to add this to his ever increasing tick list of 7b redpoints.

Conclusion

Not a bad wee trip to Yorkshire. Our tick lists were healthy, we had lots of fun and we got some mighty fine pictures and films taken. Thanks to Will Caroll, Jen Randall, Dom Bush and Catherine Speakman for taking some amazing photos and film during the trip (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)

And Special thanks to Catherine for standing on the edge of Gordale to get the shots – thats what I call going beyond the call of duty!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/179504_10150957879182073_401013151_n.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1801)Photo by Catherine Speakman

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Gorge du Loup (Part 1)
Post by: comPiler on August 05, 2012, 01:00:11 pm
Gorge du Loup (Part 1) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1825)
5 August 2012, 10:58 am

So we’ve been in France now for almost a week but haven’t actually done much climbing as of yet :/ Me and Nat drove to France with Alex Barrows in his awesome orange van with the aim of first heading to La Balme, a popular locals crag 5 hours from Nice and from there we would then head to Gorge du Loup, an even better locals crag with some steep and  hard lines to get stuck into.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/grg1.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1826)Alex high on a 7c at La Balme On first arriving at La Balme we found it to be insanely hot and humid. We had one days climbing there in which all three of us where pretty tired from the drive south and therefore not up to any hard climbing. This was further made harder with the fact that conditions where terrible, it could only be worse if the crag was sodden wet, but in reality, it was my hands that were continually dripping with sweat!

At La Balme, I came close on our first days climbing to doing a long 8a+ (I onsighted the original 7c+ first section) but it was just too hot and I was too tired. Alex did a 7c on the left hand side after much complaining of how hard it felt and Nat followed him with only one attempt at it. Not the best start, so we opted for a drive to Gorge du Loup earlier than expected to escape these hot temps.

We are now climbing at Gorge du Loup (Deverse Sector). We have only had two days climbing there so far but from what I have seen I am mega impressed. It’s super steep, very gymnastic and bloody hard! I’m hoping it’s because I’m still tired from traveling, I must admit that on todays rest day I have never felt so exhausted after two days climbing in my life… On the first day I did an 8a there called “Cascade” which in reality wasn’t that hard, the holds were big, there were loads of kneebar rests but for some reason I just couldn’t recover? I have been training had for this trip, harder than ever before and indoors I feel stronger than ever as well, but the initial transfer to outdoors has felt pretty abysmal. At the end of day 1 I tried and 8a+ called “Quossai” which I had marked down for an onsight attempt but upon trying it, each move felt like a V10 boulder and I thought it was impossible for me to climb…

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/grg2.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1827)Nat on the same 7c at La Balme On Day 2, things perked up a lot! I tried “Quossai” and after having only had a brief play on the route the day before, I fell off this time in the final section more due to my stupidity than anything else. I decided to rest myself from trying this until after a rest day and instead to try the 8b/+ variation out left called “Soul Sacrifice”. I did all the moves quickly and linked sections together on my first try but it felt very hard for a supposed 8b. I spoke to a local and he said that a few holds have broken from the bottom and middle section which have now bumped the grade up a bit. Before it was considered an 8b/+ so now it probably is 8b+.

Nat has been on fire, she did an 8a second try on her first day and got high up on the retro-flash of another 8a called “Sika” (named for an obvious feature of the roue). I am going to have a flash attempt after a rest day and hopefully she will do it as well.

We have been climbing and chilling alongside friends of ours from England, Slovenia and Germany who we’ve met up with here. Ed and Sam Hamer drove out here with fellow Sheffield based climber Ethan Walker. From Slovenia, Gasper Pintar and Izidor Zupan. And from Germany, my old pal from Siurana, king of jokes and a 9a beast, Daniel Jung.

It’s good to be out here climbing with friends and pushing it hard on the rocks. Nat and I have been still felt really tired physically and mentally after our travelling experiences but thanks to a good supply of Stoats bars, oatcakes and Porridge we have been keeping ourselves strong!

Psyched for more climbing tomorrow!

ROBZ OUT

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/grg3.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1828)Nat hiding in a cave from Alex, he can't find her...

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Gorges du Loup (Part 2)
Post by: comPiler on August 09, 2012, 07:00:09 pm
Gorges du Loup (Part 2) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1834)
9 August 2012, 4:39 pm

So we have just had days 3 and 4 of climbing in the mega steep, mega drilled limestone sports crag of Gorges du Loup (Gorges of the Wolf). After days 1 and 2 of climbing here I thought perhaps it was just me, tired after a long drive south and experiencing a bit of travelers exhaustion. Now having climbed after a rest day, I am more convinced that the style here has more to do with the difficulties I am experiencing.(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/grg14.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1841)

Climbing at Deverse sector in Gorges du Loup is a lot like climbing on a hard competition style route indoors. They are relentlessly difficult with long sustained sections and no real rests (unless your Alex Barrows and love knee bars). A lot of the climbing holds here are drilled finger pockets alongside tufa pinches and everything is from 15 degrees to 85 degrees overhanging. Resting is intense on these routes as you are always upside down in a knee bar whilst struggling with core body tension. Pain and blood rushing to the head are common themes of rests at Deverse. It’s a constant struggle for survival on these routes and there are no techy tricks that can get you by the hard moves… it basically comes down to just pulling hard when your pumped. (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/grg13.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1840)The subtleties in this crag are still there but they are of a different style to what I have accustomed myself in crags like Ceuse, Siurana and Malham – in these places you can find little foot placements that might aid you a lot with resting through a crux sequence or just allowing you to compose yourself. In Deverse subtleties are only there to help you pull your way to the next hold, a mistake or hesitation on these routes costs you everything because you now need to pull doubly hard to make the next move!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/grg11.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1838)I feel that the training I put into this trip perhaps was misguided slightly. I was expecting this same style of climbing but not the length, so most of my training that was centred around anaerobic endurance was done a lot on shorter circuits with no rests and intensive moves. The circuits might last anywhere from 1-4 minutes depending on my focus, but these routes at Deverse are longer than that and the rests that you need drain you as well. It would have been much better if I had focussed more on longer circuits and more boulder (strength/power) training.

Anyway, the last two days have been better… I did a popular 8a+ called “Quossai” which I haven’t seen anybody “walk up” (which is always nice to see). I attempted to flash another 8a that Nat did called “Sika” but had an abysmal attempt failing shy of the chains. I was by no means close though as the crux is at the end. I went to the top of the extension, an 8b which was really good but with one intersting exception… every hold bar one was drilled. It was probably the most basic route I have ever climbed, but I don’t think just any 8b climber could do it – it would require a level of power endurance beyond the norm. There are no jugs, no hard moves and certainly no rests!

The good news is I almost did a Gorges du Loup 8b/+ called “Soul Sacrifice” which is definitely an apt name for it. I feel like to do this route one has to sacrifice their soul to the god of power endurance which I would be more than happy to do if it gave me the ability to climb these routes (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  I fell off just below the chains but totally powered out – looking forward to attempts after a rest day (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/grg18.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1843)

The final route of day 4 was “Hot Chilli X” (8c) which I have entered myself into alongside Izidor Zupan (Slovenian friend). Izidor is looking super strong on it and hopefully should do it before he goes home in a few days. Gasper Pintar, another slovenian friend did it a few days ago in an awesome display of pure fight, grit and determination. I was also really inspired watching the beast, Ed Hamer casually flash the bottom part of this route linking in with the 8a “Deverse Satanique” which he had climbed before. The link is given 8b+ and although you can’t technically call it a flash, IT WAS!!! Ed belayed me on my first look at “Hot Chilli X”, at the same time talking me through the moves. I can definitely see how this route is flashable for someone as strong as Ed, the holds are all positive, it’s just the footholds that are non-existent. It is pure resistance climbing, no really hard moves, just lots of them and wait for it… NO REST!!!

I’m looking forward to finishing of “Soul Sacrifice” (8b/+) after another rest day and then hopefully putting my last remaining efforts into “Hot Chilli X”.

ROBZ OUT

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/grg20.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1844)

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: Gorges du Loup (Part 3)
Post by: comPiler on August 19, 2012, 01:00:15 pm
Gorges du Loup (Part 3) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1847)
19 August 2012, 8:46 am

It’s amazing how quickly time flies when having fun…

That is as the saying goes but it’s not entirely been true this trip. Time has flown by for me but I haven’t been enjoying myself as much as I should have been. It’s a common theme when pushing your own personal boundaries, when you’re not going well, having fun seems to be a lot harder. What a stupid way to be though right? Why should having fun correlate directly with performing your best at the activity you are doing? It shouldn’t realistically, I tell this to all the kids I coach every time they are competing or going for it outdoors… It’s one thing giving the advice but it’s another taking it…

When you put “All you eggs in one basket” it makes life a lot harder to enjoy when things don’t go as planned. I had planned this trip to improve on Siurana (earlier this year) with potentially another 8c and hopefully another 8b+ or two. I was also hoping to step my onsight grade up a bit which has been somewhat lacking in attempts over the last year – but instead, I’ve probably had the most unsuccessful climbing trip since my first trip to Ceuse (which ended in basically no actual ascents harder than my warm ups)! So yes… initially I was very upset with my performance. Nat tried to help me but I am quite a difficult person to console when down in the dumps. But you can’t spend the whole time sulking can you? Well I managed to, but life goes on (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/grg16.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1851)A week ago I did the classic 8a/+ of the crag “Deverse Satanique” and after a rest day, did the left hand variation of it as well called “Deverse SatanX” which goes at 8b. Young Buster Martin climbed this earlier in the year so I was really keen to check it out and see what it was all about. The climbing on the lower section shared with the 8a/+ was sustained and pumpy but with no hard moves – if there wasn’t a rest before the split for the 8b then for sure it would make the last section feel a lot harder but thankfully there was a nice little “mushroom” shaped hold that provided the perfect shake before hitting the final head wall, a vertical wall on positive but small crimps and pockets. As most of you will know now from Facebook, Nat made “SatanX” her first 8b as well shortly after I did it in very quick succession. She is definitely capable of climbing a lot harder! Lets put it this way, if she spent as much time figuring out the perfect beta as some of the climbers at the crag, then she would climb 8c as quickly as she did 8b (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

Since climbing those awesome routes, I have tried a number of routes from 8b-8c and basically got spanked on every one. I fell off clipping the chains four times on one of them, and was making it to the end of another 8b falling just looking at the chains! I have never felt so totally out of my depth in a climbing area as I have here. For most of the trip my mind has been clouded by high expectations and a feeling that I really should be doing better than this, but it can’t always go our way can it? If it did then we would never learn anything and therefore never progress…

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/grg101.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1852)The city lights below our beautiful camping spot... We have two more days before we go home now – I am in the process of preparing my next training plan for after Kalymnos in October which should hopefully get me fit and strong for next spring. I am not going to make the same mistakes as this time for sure. I’ll post my new plan as soon as I have finished with it for everyone to see and comment (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: QuickDraw Club @ Hepburn
Post by: comPiler on August 28, 2012, 01:00:24 am
QuickDraw Club @ Hepburn (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1856)
27 August 2012, 9:22 pm

On a beautiful sunny day, where better go than on a bouldering trip to Northumberland!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/hpb6.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1862)

Yesterday, Neill Busby and myself went with the Edinburgh based kids climbing club, the QuickDraw Club, bouldering at the popular Northumbrian crag of Hepburn. I’ve been here twice before, once on a cool crisp winters day and again on stiflingly hot summers day. Sunday however was neither hot nor cold, it was pleasant enough and perfect conditions for a fun day of climbing on Northumberland sandstone.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/hpb1.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1857)Rory Whyte warming up on the classic cracks of Hepburn The group of kids attending ranged in ability levels from top competition climbers eager for some hard sends to recreational youth climbers keen for a fun and sociable day out climbing with friends and family.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/hpb2.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1858)Jodie Brown warming up... That is indeed what the QuickDraw club does so well, bringing the youth climbing scene in Edinburgh together so that both kids and parents can have fun climbing irrespective of grades and goals. QuickDraw meets are fun days out for everyone!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/hpb4.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1860)Kirsten on the F6C - She just latched the crimp and matched (The Crux) Buz had been to Hepburn before as I had, last time with another group of kids, so he had already a good circuit of problems planned. The aim was to start off with some easier problems (good for warming up on) on a shorter boulder in the central area. The selection here was exceptional for the standard of kids we had, with a good range of blocs from F3 to F6C, everyone had something to go at. We all warmed up on two classic crack problems at about F3/4 – it got everyone moving well on rock again as crack aren’t the most obvious of features to breeze up (unless your Tom Randall). After warming up a bit on those, Buz and I chose a couple of problems a bit harder for the kids to go at. I started off with a tricky F6A which I thought was more like F6C and another bloc to the right given F6C that I thought could be F6A, however the guide was 100% clear which ones were which, it even gave descriptions, so something was off there. A bunch of the kids flashed the apparent F6C whilst only one or two did the F6A (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/hpb3.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1859)Adam Brown working his way up the flake! After climbing at the main area we headed down for lunch, a QuickDraw Barbecue!!! These guys really know how to run a climbing trip! In between sessions at the crag just pop down for a sausage roll and some chicken soup (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  YUM! Forgot to mention of course the fruit loaf (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/hpb7.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1863)Like Father... (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/hpb5.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1861)Like Son... Next up Buz and I split the group, he took the older girls and boys whilst I took the younger kids. They headed up and around towards the upper section of Hepburn whilst my group headed towards the “Northern Soul” boulder, not before checking out a few blocs that I hadn’t been to before but saw in the guide. Unfortunately thanks to the wet weather this year, all the greenery seems to have grown quite a bit, masking the “path” and making finding this elusive sector slightly trickier. We eventually found it and did a few class slab problems – the most exciting bit was when young Adam Brown was close to topping, when suddenly he slid down the face of the boulder straight into his dads arms (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  He did it next go though!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/hpb8.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1864)Evan creeping his way up the slopers to the finishing jugs... just in sight! Don't worry, Grandad is spotting! The “Northern Soul” boulder was too hard for the kids, however “Titanic Arete” boulder had a fun (and slightly green) F5+ for everyone, and back at the “Northern Soul” boulder was a smaller one in front that offered a few class blocs from F4-F6A. The trickiest bit about those are the top-outs (SLOPERS!!!) and for kids that boulder would be a high ball for sure (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  I think we may have the future Kevin Jorgeson’s of Scotland!

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/hpb9.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1865)Declan slapping on "The Keel" To finish off, we headed back along the crag to just beyond where we started. Everyone tried their hand at a number of problems, one in particular that was spitting everyone off left right and centre was “The Keel”! Not sure on the grade but it was an awesome feature that takes some compression ability (something the kids weren’t used to) as well as mantling skills on slopers (again, something none of us are that used to).

We all packed up after that and headed back to the cars. Everyone was tired after the days climbing not to mention seeing a few raw tips. Everyone had a good day out in the end and I think I can speak for all when I say that “I can’t wait until the next one” (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

Another good day out climbing, thats what sunny days are for (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)

ROBZ OUT

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/hpb10.jpeg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1866)Matthew in control on "The Keel"... but not for long (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

Title: World Youth Climbing Championships 2012 Singapore
Post by: comPiler on September 01, 2012, 07:00:14 pm
World Youth Climbing Championships 2012 Singapore (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=1880)
1 September 2012, 4:46 pm

The last week has been the event hundreds of young climbers around the world have been waiting for, the week of the World Youth Climbing Championships! This year it was held in one of the most amazing places I have ever had the pleasure of visiting, Singapore. Although I never got to go this year and support the GB Team, I was there in spirit every morning at 4am watching them through the Live Feed. When I say I was there “in spirit”, thats not far from the truth, 4am is too early for me and I can’t be classed as “alive” at that time in the morning, more like the waking dead (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

Every morning I would await the dreaded phone call from Nat (my alarm) and then tune into watch the boys and girls of Team GB climb their hearts out at the competition. Unfortunately due to weather delays, live feed issues and work commitments I couldn’t always see how everybody was doing and didn’t get to see the whole competition, but I got a few of the performances on video that you can watch below!

The two top performances from Team GB where by the youngest members (Youth B), Molly Thompson-Smith from London and William Bosi from Edinburgh. William Bosi is one of the boys I coach in Edinburgh so you can imagine what a feeling it is like watching him compete at worlds!

The overall Team GB performance this year was fantastic! Here are the results:

Charlotte Garden (Female Juniors) – 22nd

Molly Thompson-Smith (Female Youth B) – 7th

Tara Hayes (Female Youth B) – 20th

Jonny White (Male Youth A) – 37th

Buster Martin (Male Youth A) – 38th

William Bosi (Male Youth B) – 4th

What a great result overall! Now for a more detailed view on William Bosi’s performance. Here is a video of William on his first qualifier:

The route was described by the IFSC commentator Dan as being a 7c route. Realistically if it was 7c then William would have onsighted it along with 3/4 of the rest of the competitors… That didn’t happen (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  It looked hard and from watching the other competitors I know such as Ruben Firnenburg (Germany) and Anze Peharc (Slovenia) struggle on it as well, I was convinced that it looked more like your typical competition grade 8a route. Nobody topped the route anyway. William climbed well on this, at 0:53 you even see he gets a cheeky knee bar on the volume that allows him a bit of extra reach, a more stable clipping position and the ability to match the next tufa comfortably. Watching others at the same point, they were using way too much of their upper body to wrestle the volume into gaining the tufa. At 1:32 we see William doing the cross over from the undercut where a number of really strong competitors unfortunately fell. This included young Dom Burns from Ireland (European Youth Bouldering Champion) who seemed to lose a lot of power on this move, but he would make up for this on the next route (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)  At 2:18 we see William stepping high for the hard cross-over that both Willaim and Anze Peharc (this years World Champion) fell from. From the live feed it looks as though William just powered out at this section.

Now for William on his second Qualifier:

Now unfortunately I didn’t get as much video on this climb, but William cruised the first part anyway (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  What we do see at 0:20 though is a foot slip just as he caught a sloping press hold out right. This caused him to take quite a forceful swing backwards and no doubt cost him a lot of energy. Everybody knows what a foot slip can do to your confidence as well as your energy/pump levels, it can drastically alter your confidence in trusting smaller footholds and smears, exactly what you don’t want happening during a competition. Luckily he held it together and made it through the next few moves unscathed. When William hit the rock over on the yellow volume, I thought this was possibly his life saver, a chance to rest up some before moving into the next section of the wall. Unfortunately this part of the climb wasn’t nearly as restful as I had thought and William came of as he was going for the large sloping pinch.

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/314215_411068918957595_1410766106_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1884)William Bosi before the rock over on the Yellow Volumes. The holds looked so much better on the live feed (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  

(http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/539455_411064505624703_1221735647_n.jpg) (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?attachment_id=1885)Takato Tsumori (JPN) well on his way to making one of only five tops on Q2 in the Youth B Category  

William qualified for semi’s in 20th place just ahead of fellow competitor and friend Dom Burns (Ireland) who was placed 21st. Dom beat William on the second qualifier placing 17th for that route. Now lets have a look at William in the Semi’s!

If you ask me, you can’t ask for a better soundtrack as your about to get on a comp route (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  If you listen to the commentator at the beginning he mentions Nat in the chat rooms hahaha

William on the semi-final route was the most exciting bit yet. I knew he had what it takes to make finals, he just had to really push for it and make every move count. I had only seen the first few climbers climb the route and none had made it look easy. Dom fell just above the red volume so I knew whereabouts it was going to be getting really hard. At around 2:30, you see William entering the bulge as he moves off the volume – everyone had fallen just below here so he was currently in 1st position. There was a moment though when he looked like he was going to come off the same move as Dom, but instead of attempting a wild cross-over move, he instead wrong-handed himself (to get the next hold on the volume) and amazingly matched right after securing him in the lead. Afterwards we see William attempting to rest for a second, then getting the next clip and afterwards going for the hold and coming off. It looked similar to Q1 and Q2, he doesn’t look pumped, it’s more like he’s just losing power.

Amazingly, although watching William climb was exciting, the best bit was watching the others afterwards to decide whether or not William would make finals or not. As I watched I found myself shouting at the screen as climbers fought to hold on, each one falling close to around where William had made and occasionally making it past and quite a bit further. As the count down to the last climber came, I saw William progress in rank from 12th – 11th – 10th At this point I was on the edge of my seat! If a couple more climbers could fall then William would make finals! 9th… At this point I had to run to work (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  I was unsure of what had happened but my hopes were high for William making finals (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)  When I arrived at Ratho I immediately jumped onto the computer and went straight to IFSC.TV

WILLIAM WAS PLACED 6TH!!! Even better than I had expected! There was nothing to worry about, he was very much in the finals, not only “just”.

Now for the finals!

At the time I was setting for the Scottish Championships Prep Event and EICA Youth Team Selection Day. During our lunch break we watched the finals (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)  The video is here but I have masked over a lot of bad language by fellow Ratho employees with music so no innocent ears are damaged (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)

In the finals William climbed really well. He was fast, fluid and appeared in the zone! Talking to Cathy Alldred at Ratho that night she mentioned how the competitors seem to step up their game massively as the competition progresses. I would have to agree with her on this. Looking at William on Q1 and Q2 compared to semi’s is one thing, but seeing how he climbed in the finals… the difference is incredible! In the finals, William was climbing like a World Champion! The ability to do this in competition is paramount to succeeding in them and he 100% has it!

William finished in 4th place! This is the best ranking he has ever had in an international competition and to have achieved it at the World Championships is incredible! Not only this, but out of all the boys in Youth B born in 98, he was 1st, yet another achievement in itself.

Finally another big well done to everybody who competed for Team GB, and to everyone who competed at the World Championships full-stop…

ROBZ OUT

Source: Robbie's Blog (http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog)

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