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the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: ericinbristol on June 23, 2019, 10:31:29 pm

Title: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: ericinbristol on June 23, 2019, 10:31:29 pm
Does anyone know if I can buy in the UK a Flash Board made by Tension Climbing? A friend was over from the US and had one. It was great for warming up at the crag. Suggestions welcome.  If you haven't seen one, here's a short video: https://vimeo.com/202822415 (https://vimeo.com/202822415)

If they are not available here I'll ask him to post me one when he gets back to the US.
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: remus on June 24, 2019, 07:31:12 am
Not available on the UK as far as I'm aware. If you do get it posted over to the UK watch out for import duties, you may get stung with VAT though if your friend marks the package as a gift you'll probably get away with it.

I've been using one of these recently https://ashclimbing.com/ which I really like. Nice and compact with a good range of edges to get warmed up on.
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: User deactivated on June 24, 2019, 07:58:58 am
Sent you an email Eric.
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: Bradders on June 24, 2019, 08:47:57 am
Having used both I'd say Ash's fingerboard is miles better. Lighter, more compact and friendlier holds.
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: Stu Littlefair on June 24, 2019, 08:51:47 am
I’ve got one. Bought it on amazon if I remember correctly.

Not a huge fan if it; the holds aren’t very pleasant and the whole adjustable angle aspect is too fiddly to bother with most of the time.
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: abarro81 on June 24, 2019, 09:00:12 am
I use the crusher one, and like it a lot for both crag warm-ups and training on work trips. Not the lightest though - I think Ash's one is quite a bit lighter
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: ericinbristol on June 24, 2019, 09:39:32 am
Hi everyone

Thanks for all of the suggestions - much appreciated. I will have a look at the options (and thanks Jack for getting in touch - I have replied separately)

Just realised I should have posted in the 'For sale/wanted' forum. Oops

(btw I am new to ukb though I registered years ago and once climbed with Shark at Brean. I am a regular on ukc, also as ericinbristol)).
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: SA Chris on June 24, 2019, 10:09:20 pm
Should have hung onto your mate's one and told him to get another back home.
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: Coops_13 on June 24, 2019, 10:15:52 pm
My mate also makes them, for a reasonable price. Just another data point to consider: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bihd8gkjR7e/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: haydn jones on June 24, 2019, 11:12:14 pm
This flash board is hands down the best portable fingerboard I have ever used miles above any other board. Not sure why everyone is slagging it off.
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: monkey boy on June 25, 2019, 06:11:09 am
I haven't used a tension board but I do really rate Ash's board; nice edges and really light so good for travelling with.
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: moose on June 25, 2019, 06:48:28 am
This flash board is hands down the best portable fingerboard I have ever used miles above any other board. Not sure why everyone is slagging it off.

I've got a flash board too - bought after a lot of comparing the other options - and really like it.  Small and fairly light, hangs well (the way the cord wraps around the cylindrical shape seems to make them comparatively stable), and the holds are the ideal range of sizes for me.  Turning it over to change the radius of the crimps, or tilting it to alter the overall angle of the board seems a bit of a faff at first but when you get the knack is easy enough.  That said, I really like small crimps; I can see how someone else might find the holds painful rather than satisfyingly "bitey"! 

The Ash boards do look really good though.  I had considered a Problem Solver board but was put off by the ply construction and the Ash's look like a nicer, solid wood version (although, if I worked for Problem Solver I would be a bit pissed off and rueing the inadequacy of patent / design right protection!).
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 25, 2019, 09:11:07 am
Really rate the Patxi Il domani fingerboard. Not the smallest of holds but great for crag warm ups and training offshore.
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: ericinbristol on June 25, 2019, 09:36:51 am
Thanks for all the suggestions. The Il Domani does look good too.

I will have time to drop by Bananafingers as they have the Ash one in stock. Great price (£45) - I'm not sure if Bananafingers also do BMC discount,

I need to get something in a hurry as I am off to work in Somaliland for just over two weeks. I took a TCA fingerboard out to my accommodation on a previous trip, now nailed above a door to the dining area! Probably the first fingerboard in Somaliland and Somalia as a whole. However, I am staying elsewhere this time so need something else.
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: ericinbristol on June 25, 2019, 10:05:40 am
Should have hung onto your mate's one and told him to get another back home.

That would have been fine but he was on his way to Ceuse and so needed it unfortunately for me
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: jwills on June 25, 2019, 10:14:15 am
Maybe a bit off topic but how does the amount of weight you hang off the portable boards compare to what you hang off a mounted board? Assuming roughly the same edge depth of course.
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: tomtom on June 25, 2019, 11:03:38 am
SteveR of this parish also makes portable fingerboards. Metis is the trade name I think - website and some on eBay.

Give him a shout and I’m sure he could make something bespoke if you wanted?
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: Probes on June 25, 2019, 11:19:04 am
We have another portable board along side the Mission board that's worth considering...a smaller board.. weight wise it's between 500-600 grams...

http://crusherholds.co.uk/portable-fingerboards-hangboards/crusher-send-hangboard
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: ericinbristol on June 25, 2019, 11:22:33 am
We have another portable board along side the Mission board that's worth considering...a smaller board.. weight wise it's between 500-600 grams...

http://crusherholds.co.uk/portable-fingerboards-hangboards/crusher-send-hangboard

Great price - £35
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: Paul B on June 25, 2019, 11:47:18 am
I have a prototype Crusher board. It's very nice.
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: ericinbristol on June 27, 2019, 11:08:24 am
I picked up an Ash Hang Board from Bananafingers in Bristol, for £42.50 (5% BMC discount). Apparently they have 28 more in their store room! I needed something in a hurry for my two weeks away with work.

Positives: Nicely smooth without being slippy. Okay range of uses/angles. Small size and light as a feather means great for taking to a crag with a walk in.

Negatives: quite narrow. Thin cord (I am not saying it will snap but I do find myself looking at it a bit).

In sum, the one I would take to the crag but for work trips with no access to indoor or outdoor climbing I would probably prefer take a Flash Board - slighly wider I think and certainly more variety of use.

Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: jwi on June 27, 2019, 11:28:50 am

Negatives: quite narrow.

This is my beef with most portable fingerboards. Made one myself that allows keeping the shoulders in a more neutral position. Alas it doesn't fit in to carry-on luggage...
Title: Re: Flash Board by Tension Climbing - available in the UK?
Post by: Rob F on October 30, 2019, 08:13:41 pm
Never mind warming up at the crag. You wanna be warming up in the car...

https://youtu.be/rdZVWeA7a-Q
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