UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: 36chambers on October 24, 2016, 07:16:35 pm
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"Waking up today I can’t help but look at the world with different eyes. Having achieved the first ascent of Burden of Dreams marks a new level in my climbing. With a handful of existing 8C+ boulders in the world, proposing 9A is the logical step."
https://www.instagram.com/p/BL9H0OSg8Fc/?taken-by=nalle_hukkataival
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That man is packing some SERIOUS LENGTH!!!!!!!
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I don't know why but I'm ridiculously psyched right now! stupid rest days, I off to find some weights! :strongbench:
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wow
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Yeah wow.
Beats picking up shit in Suirana with me this time last year.
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Hero
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9a... big number... he runs the risk of 8a.nu not referring to him as "brave and humble"... he must be devastated at the prospect!
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Amazing! What a beast!
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9a... big number... he runs the risk of 8a.nu not referring to him as "brave and humble"... he must be devastated at the prospect!
I'm sure Lord Voldermort will find some way to take credit, or stir shit. One of the other.
On topic: :bounce: :alky: :alky: :alky: in Helsinki tonight
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Proper beast :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:.
Very pure bit of rock too.....classic board problem stylee.
Awaiting the Jordan downgrade with excitement!
P.S.Sisu project after the hangover from astronomically expensive Finnish beer has disappeared??
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This is amazing. Much more inspiring than the professionals Rocklands/Australia/Colorado tour on repeat. He's one of the best and he's sat under a very short and hard bit of rock for 4 years or so. Cool that it's a short pure problem rather than a long one. Does this mean 8B+ climbers are now punters :lol: Font 9a, screw me sideways :greed:
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Haha! Mid eights. Whatever.
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Fuck yes. Amazing.
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:strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
I hope this video arrives whilst I'm still in font so I can watch it on repeat thousands of times and go and crush.
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Friggin sweet! It makes me unnaturally happy that what is quite possibly the hardest problem in the world is boning up dirty crimps on a 45 degree wall. Nowhere to hide there.
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This. Is. Fucking. Amazing. News.
No 60 move route in a cave, or sideways shuffle. A proper, straight up bloc. :punk: :strongbench:
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This gives some insight on how the holds look like
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSZdTjOTFDE
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Looks stern.
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This is incredible, proper bouldering! Got me seriously psyched! Makes 8A seem like nothing...
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looks like it was made for Jasper
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Don't usually get excited by what the pros climb however this feels like a significant moment for bouldering. A proper short boulder to get to the next level, done by a climber that has repeated lots of hard things all over the world and could have easily lived off repeats without putting the pressure of this local problem onto himself.
Also it makes me realise my local projects that I have spent maybe 5 or 6 sessions on over a couple of years are nothing, really siked to go out and try things that have previously shut me down and put some work into them!
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Yes! :strongbench: When 8B is a rest and 8C isn't that hard anymore!
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Don't usually get excited by what the pros climb however this feels like a significant moment for bouldering.
Me too. This is bloody minded persistence through years of adversity and fuck loads of self doubt and failure. Fittingly It just so happens to be on the hardest problem in the world.
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I'm just happy bouldering is finally catching up with sport climbing!
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looks like it was made for Jasper
You're thinking of the mojito he's just about to tuck into :)
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Mega!!
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This one looks like it could be really hard.
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Amazing stuff. Font 9a. Incredible!
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Fucking awesome! Psyched to see the video!
Favourite for the second ascent?
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Favourite for the second ascent?
That bare foot guy
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When was the last time bouldering went up a number? This feels massively, earth shatteringly different.
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When was the last time bouldering went up a number? This feels massively, earth shatteringly different.
'84
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When was the last time bouldering went up a number? This feels massively, earth shatteringly different.
'84
Which problem?
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As in the first ever 8A?
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First 8A? 1975-ish. Slapshot/Trice/Meathook.
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So only 41 years since the last new number... :o
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When was the last time bouldering went up a number? This feels massively, earth shatteringly different.
'84
Which problem?
Sorry - I was thinking the first one in the forest.
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edit: whoops misread
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Significant
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First 8A? 1975-ish. Slapshot/Trice/Meathook.
They will never have been given 8a at the time though (were V grades even in use then?), so it's not really appropriate to call em "last time we had a new number". The last time we had a new number, i.e. the first 8a that was graded 8a at the time will almost certainly be in Font. I;m sure the old Pink Godoffe guide lists firsts at every grade, I can't remember the first 8a, something like L'aplat du Gain, or C'etait Demain.
EDIT: I'm pretty sure the first 8a it was C'etait Demain, 1984, Godoffe.
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Apparently the G repeated it last night by headtorch. Jugs compared to Shadowplay by all accounts.
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Apparently the G repeated it last night by headtorch. Jugs compared to Shadowplay by all accounts.
I was waiting for this joke. Well played. :yes:
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It's astounding the lengths that some people will go to to boost their number of Instagram followers.
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It's astounding the lengths that some people will go to to boost their number of Instagram followers. #willhunt #over-caffeinated sugary drink company #scarpa #organic #Bettys #rockstar #shinyplums
Fixed that for you @WillHunt
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Apparently the ascent was caught on film. There's a massive amount of footage from earlier attempts, as some Finnish filmmakers went there forty times.
https://m.facebook.com/BlueKangooFilms/photos/a.977831925612427.1073741828.503428963052728/1203088239753460/?type=3
Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk
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Haven't been this vicariously psyched since Stu did Rainshadow. Font 9a, 'kin hell.
Also looking at Rustam for the repeat.
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Good effs for using vast experience of top-end bouldering and sticking his neck out to suggest 9A. Amazing effort to stick at it!
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Friggin sweet! It makes me unnaturally happy that what is quite possibly the hardest problem in the world is boning up dirty crimps on a 45 degree wall. Nowhere to hide there.
This. No stamina, no not sure where the proper start is, no contrived sit. So stoked for the guy.
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Just been going back through his instagram posts about the project. He tends to write quite long descriptions so a good story is told as you go back through the years. Starting 163 weeks ago...
"Tried this amazing new project yesterday! It's a very pure boulder with straight forward and thuggy frontal climbing. No trickery, just raw power! This will be a really hard one! #bouldering #climbing #island"
https://www.instagram.com/p/d34fcpSEr- 163w
https://www.instagram.com/p/ecWG2aSEo2 161w
https://www.instagram.com/p/fPdtwlSEnC 158w
https://www.instagram.com/p/fiHl6KyEpX 157w video..getting excited about nearly doing the first move
https://www.instagram.com/p/gBTqK6yEr2
https://www.instagram.com/p/gS6wGZSEpx
https://www.instagram.com/p/nXtEdRSEmQ 130w project is wet
https://www.instagram.com/p/oGcw7ZSEhL 127w finally does the last missing move
https://www.instagram.com/p/oLqlU_SEu4
https://www.instagram.com/p/odtrtryEl9 126w
https://www.instagram.com/p/pEfV6cyEl4 123w leaves it for another summer
https://www.instagram.com/p/tXzNV2SEix 108w back on it
https://www.instagram.com/p/t5SK6QyEjK 106w every move in a session
https://www.instagram.com/p/uQcB5OyEn2 105w almost linked in 2 parts
https://www.instagram.com/p/ux4XICSEsv 103w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0LNWV0yEng 84w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0aeI3lSEpz 83w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0xr_a0yEif
https://www.instagram.com/p/1sn-iaSEg9 79w Einstein famously said: "Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results"
https://www.instagram.com/p/3Gv3PuyEkw 74w
https://www.instagram.com/p/9oPbZKyEvc 50w does it from one move in to the top!
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDWHpIXyEhe 30w
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDszkZLSEsy 29w woods, graham and webb join in
https://www.instagram.com/p/BD8fyrYyErl 28w
https://www.instagram.com/p/BEyThXBSEs- 25w vid
https://www.instagram.com/p/BE8ujrZyEsw
https://www.instagram.com/p/BFZGD-TSEo7
https://www.instagram.com/p/BFl3Th5yEr4 22w long post about the frustration
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLToTs5ggwd 2w vid
https://www.instagram.com/p/BL9H0OSg8Fc Sent!
Slow day at work.
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Incredible exciting news and great name for a hard project and hard process.
Sort of puts that idea to bed that there is no room for development just in terms of raw power problems.
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So..... does this mean open 9A+ campus project? ;)
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Just been going back through his instagram posts about the project. He tends to write quite long descriptions so a good story is told as you go back through the years. Starting 163 weeks ago...
"Tried this amazing new project yesterday! It's a very pure boulder with straight forward and thuggy frontal climbing. No trickery, just raw power! This will be a really hard one! #bouldering #climbing #island"
https://www.instagram.com/p/d34fcpSEr- 163w
https://www.instagram.com/p/ecWG2aSEo2 161w
https://www.instagram.com/p/fPdtwlSEnC 158w
https://www.instagram.com/p/fiHl6KyEpX 157w video..getting excited about nearly doing the first move
https://www.instagram.com/p/gBTqK6yEr2
https://www.instagram.com/p/gS6wGZSEpx
https://www.instagram.com/p/nXtEdRSEmQ 130w project is wet
https://www.instagram.com/p/oGcw7ZSEhL 127w finally does the last missing move
https://www.instagram.com/p/oLqlU_SEu4
https://www.instagram.com/p/odtrtryEl9 126w
https://www.instagram.com/p/pEfV6cyEl4 123w leaves it for another summer
https://www.instagram.com/p/tXzNV2SEix 108w back on it
https://www.instagram.com/p/t5SK6QyEjK 106w every move in a session
https://www.instagram.com/p/uQcB5OyEn2 105w almost linked in 2 parts
https://www.instagram.com/p/ux4XICSEsv 103w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0LNWV0yEng 84w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0aeI3lSEpz 83w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0xr_a0yEif
https://www.instagram.com/p/1sn-iaSEg9 79w Einstein famously said: "Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results"
https://www.instagram.com/p/3Gv3PuyEkw 74w
https://www.instagram.com/p/9oPbZKyEvc 50w does it from one move in to the top!
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDWHpIXyEhe 30w
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDszkZLSEsy 29w woods, graham and webb join in
https://www.instagram.com/p/BD8fyrYyErl 28w
https://www.instagram.com/p/BEyThXBSEs- 25w vid
https://www.instagram.com/p/BE8ujrZyEsw
https://www.instagram.com/p/BFZGD-TSEo7
https://www.instagram.com/p/BFl3Th5yEr4 22w long post about the frustration
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLToTs5ggwd 2w vid
https://www.instagram.com/p/BL9H0OSg8Fc Sent!
Slow day at work.
That is waddage procrastination, can you make me a guide for the DWS at Ha Long Bay?
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Just been going back through his instagram posts about the project. He tends to write quite long descriptions so a good story is told as you go back through the years. Starting 163 weeks ago...
"Tried this amazing new project yesterday! It's a very pure boulder with straight forward and thuggy frontal climbing. No trickery, just raw power! This will be a really hard one! #bouldering #climbing #island"
https://www.instagram.com/p/d34fcpSEr- 163w
https://www.instagram.com/p/ecWG2aSEo2 161w
https://www.instagram.com/p/fPdtwlSEnC 158w
https://www.instagram.com/p/fiHl6KyEpX 157w video..getting excited about nearly doing the first move
https://www.instagram.com/p/gBTqK6yEr2
https://www.instagram.com/p/gS6wGZSEpx
https://www.instagram.com/p/nXtEdRSEmQ 130w project is wet
https://www.instagram.com/p/oGcw7ZSEhL 127w finally does the last missing move
https://www.instagram.com/p/oLqlU_SEu4
https://www.instagram.com/p/odtrtryEl9 126w
https://www.instagram.com/p/pEfV6cyEl4 123w leaves it for another summer
https://www.instagram.com/p/tXzNV2SEix 108w back on it
https://www.instagram.com/p/t5SK6QyEjK 106w every move in a session
https://www.instagram.com/p/uQcB5OyEn2 105w almost linked in 2 parts
https://www.instagram.com/p/ux4XICSEsv 103w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0LNWV0yEng 84w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0aeI3lSEpz 83w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0xr_a0yEif
https://www.instagram.com/p/1sn-iaSEg9 79w Einstein famously said: "Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results"
https://www.instagram.com/p/3Gv3PuyEkw 74w
https://www.instagram.com/p/9oPbZKyEvc 50w does it from one move in to the top!
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDWHpIXyEhe 30w
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDszkZLSEsy 29w woods, graham and webb join in
https://www.instagram.com/p/BD8fyrYyErl 28w
https://www.instagram.com/p/BEyThXBSEs- 25w vid
https://www.instagram.com/p/BE8ujrZyEsw
https://www.instagram.com/p/BFZGD-TSEo7
https://www.instagram.com/p/BFl3Th5yEr4 22w long post about the frustration
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLToTs5ggwd 2w vid
https://www.instagram.com/p/BL9H0OSg8Fc Sent!
Slow day at work.
Pretty sure the 5th link down that list isn't the same project. Back around.
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It's Bugelwotsit sit isn't it?
Anyway, I love how I got ridiculously excited when I saw this news yesterday! He's managed to come up with a really great name too.
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That is waddage procrastination, can you make me a guide for the DWS at Ha Long Bay?
Ha long bay guide by Jimmy2Hats (http://www.asiaoutdoors.com.vn/uploads/4/8/3/0/48307807/guidebook_appendix.pdf)
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Pretty sure the 5th link down that list isn't the same project. Back around.
One day I'll make a post that you can't find a problem with.
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Pretty sure the 5th link down that list isn't the same project. Back around.
One day I'll make a post that you can't find a problem with.
This one's fine btw.
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Gnarly Hukkataival
:whistle:
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Grade reasoning (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70770/nalle_hukkataival_talks_9a)
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Should have just said: 'I pissed Gioia and this took me 4 years'.
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What he said about needing more stratification around the 8C and 8C+ range made a lot of sense to me (as a 7B climber :) ).
I am relying on a fundamental rejigging and regrading of the font system in order to climb 8A. Or a load of steroids.
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What he said about needing more stratification around the 8C and 8C+ range made a lot of sense to me (as a 7B climber :) ).
I am relying on a fundamental rejigging and regrading of the font system in order to climb 8A. Or a load of steroids.
should have gone to magic wood a few years ago. Maybe they had the correct grades all along.
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What he said about needing more stratification around the 8C and 8C+ range made a lot of sense to me (as a 7B climber :) ).
I am relying on a fundamental rejigging and regrading of the font system in order to climb 8A. Or a load of steroids.
I'm relying on a devaluing of the grading system and me getting down to the same weight as Andy Cave
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Good pre send interview by Björn Pohl here: https://soundcloud.com/heedge-limbingifeodcast and he also gets some great answers and insights from him on UKC: www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70773/interview_nalle_hukkataival_the_nature_of_climbing_9a
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Good to see Grop Spee has made a fast second ascent http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=435486
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Trailer for the film has been released
https://vimeo.com/189939337
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Good to see Grop Spee has made a fast second ascent http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=435486
Isn't that on a wishlist, not a ticklist?
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Good to see Grop Spee has made a fast second ascent http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=435486
Isn't that on a wishlist, not a ticklist?
Read the user names carefully.
When Bonjoy posted the link there was a 'Grop Spee' user who had added it to their ticklist. Having just checked there is now only one person who has it on their wishlist. Their username is not 'Grop Spee'.
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Well how thew hell was i supposed to know it wasn't some nickname for a someone?? I thought maybe "Bonjoy"(not his real name) was using a nickname for "HoboChris" (not his real name I'm guessing) and Grop Spee (not his real name I'm guessing) was what he called him.
I had no idea anything had been deleted between him posting and me reading, which is where the confusing arose, not with me "not reading user names carefully", "Slackline" (not your real name?).
Thanks for working it out for me though.
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Well how thew hell was i supposed to know it wasn't some nickname for a someone?? I thought maybe "Bonjoy"(not his real name) was using a nickname for "HoboChris" (not his real name I'm guessing) and Grop Spee (not his real name I'm guessing) was what he called him.
I had no idea anything had been deleted between him posting and me reading, which is where the confusing arose, not with me "not reading user names carefully", "Slackline" (not your real name?).
(https://themixingbowl.org/static/img/smilies/handbag.gif)
Thanks for working it out for me though.
You are welcome.
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Well if you spared me the patronising "think carerfully" any handbags could be avoided.
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It now has its own website.
http://thelappnorproject.com/
"When Nalle finally succeeded, it blew away the whole climbing world like nothing before."
glad it came back... :tumble:
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:lets_do_it_wild:
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My husband is 54yrs and has erectile dysfunction. I need to find him Meds at a greatly reduced rate but, they still need to be Meds not Deads. I have yet to find a pharmacy that dispenses consistent quality Meds at a reasonable rate. I want to where to buy apcalis online (http://gracenfriends.com/buy-cialis.html), but still dont trust any internet pharmacies. Please help!
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My husband is 54yrs and has erectile dysfunction. I need to find him Meds at a greatly reduced rate but, they still need to be Meds not Deads. I have yet to find a pharmacy that dispenses consistent quality Meds at a reasonable rate. I want to where to buy apcalis online (http://gracenfriends.com/buy-cialis.html), but still dont trust any internet pharmacies. Please help!
He probably just needs a new wife.
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My husband is 54yrs and has erectile dysfunction. I need to find him Meds at a greatly reduced rate but, they still need to be Meds not Deads. I have yet to find a pharmacy that dispenses consistent quality Meds at a reasonable rate. I want to where to buy apcalis online (http://gracenfriends.com/buy-cialis.html), but still dont trust any internet pharmacies. Please help!
Hi Polyya Awx,
This is a little awx, but the Lappnor problem is hard in terms of difficulty, not turgidity. You may find material to help with your problem on the DFBWGC thread. HTH.
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Is it raining at Earl Polyya?
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My husband is 54yrs and has erectile dysfunction. I need to find him Meds at a greatly reduced rate but, they still need to be Meds not Deads. I have yet to find a pharmacy that dispenses consistent quality Meds at a reasonable rate. I want to where to buy apcalis online (http://gracenfriends.com/buy-cialis.html), but still dont trust any internet pharmacies. Please help!
Try the forums most recent endorsement Yohimbe (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27674.msg539664.html#msg539664).
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What great timing!
Dr S.Nakeoil recommends your hubby tries Yohimbe. Do tell us how you get on but don't blame me if you can't post back because you're too sore to walk over to the laptop.
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The film should be out this month.
sauce [sic]: https://www.facebook.com/BlueKangooFilms/
We are happy to announce that The Lappnor Project will be released on Vimeo on Demand in January 2017! The exact release date will be announced soon.
It has been a demanding project all in all, and we are thrilled to finally see these 3 1/2 years distilled into a 30-minute story!
Check this space and www.thelappnorproject.com for updates!
I sincerely hope it's just a continuous 30 minute montage of Nalle repeatingly falling off until he doesn't. Hopefully with the grade and name appearing after he tops out. But one can only dream.
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Or ideally 30 mins of buildup then the name and grade flashing up just BEFORE he pulls on for the sucessful send, so to allow any sense of accumulated anticipation to evaporate.
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They didn't get the successful ascent on film.
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Or ideally 30 mins of buildup then the name and grade flashing up just BEFORE he pulls on for the sucessful send, so to allow any sense of accumulated anticipation to evaporate.
You already know he climbs it so there is little point in watching it. :clown:
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Or ideally 30 mins of buildup then the name and grade flashing up just BEFORE he pulls on for the sucessful send, so to allow any sense of accumulated anticipation to evaporate.
You already know he climbs it so there is little point in watching it. :clown:
I knew Daniel Craig would coldly shag his way through a killing spree but it didn't stop me watching all his Bond films.
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They didn't get the successful ascent on film.
I thought they did?
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They didn't get the successful ascent on film.
I thought they did?
Just checked and while the people making the film weren't there when he did it, Nalle filmed it himself. I missed that detail when I read it at first. The post is on the "Blue Kangoo Films" Facebook page post from October 24th.
So expect 29 minutes of beautifully shot scenes of Nalle making coffee, packing his rucksack, walking through a forest, chalking up in slow motion etc., followed by 30 seconds of phone-in-a-shoe send footage. ;)
I bet they were fucking screwing when he phoned them up to tell them he'd done it without them. Can you imagine?!
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I knew Daniel Craig would coldly shag his way through a killing spree but it didn't stop me watching all his Bond films.
Your accumulated anticipation levels shouldn't nose dive if the name and grade flash up before the ascent with robust training like that.
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I'm hoping for extended flying from South Africa / America to Norway, into a car and THEN driving to the crag footage.
And timelapses.
Definitely timelapses.
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So expect 29 minutes of beautifully shot scenes of Nalle making coffee, packing his rucksack, walking through a forest, chalking up in slow motion etc., followed by 30 seconds of phone-in-a-shoe send footage. ;)
I just hope they keep the bullshit talk about the journey (metaphorical not the literal crag approach) and the personal development to a minimum :yawn:
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I'm also hoping for some forest based outdoor yoga and fingerboarding.
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How come no-one has mentioned the filing/clipping/manicuring yet!?! Or better still flappers/splits/blisters ;)
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They didn't get the successful ascent on film.
I thought they did?
Just checked and while the people making the film weren't there when he did it, Nalle filmed it himself. I missed that detail when I read it at first. The post is on the "Blue Kangoo Films" Facebook page post from October 24th.
So expect 29 minutes of beautifully shot scenes of Nalle making coffee, packing his rucksack, walking through a forest, chalking up in slow motion etc., followed by 30 seconds of phone-in-a-shoe send footage. ;)
I bet they were fucking screwing when he phoned them up to tell them he'd done it without them. Can you imagine?!
I can sympathise from personal experience. It's a nightmare trying to get an ascent on camera sometimes when it's at the climbers limit. When Neil Dyer and Pete Robins were trying the FA of Megalopa on LpT I spent about a month filming nearly every go. In the end they weren't that close and I couldn't keep filming forever (I like to climb too!). Then 5 weeks or so later I was working the route to the left and Dyer was about To have a go so I clipped into a Bolt and pulled up my camera and he did it that go. So lucky. I can only imagine trying to get a 5 year project on film.
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I can sympathise from personal experience. It's a nightmare trying to get an ascent on camera sometimes when it's at the climbers limit.
I understand... Rich ------> Action Directe ------> :worms:
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They didn't get the successful ascent on film.
I thought they did?
Just checked and while the people making the film weren't there when he did it, Nalle filmed it himself. I missed that detail when I read it at first. The post is on the "Blue Kangoo Films" Facebook page post from October 24th.
So expect 29 minutes of beautifully shot scenes of Nalle making coffee, packing his rucksack, walking through a forest, chalking up in slow motion etc., followed by 30 seconds of phone-in-a-shoe send footage. ;)
I bet they were fucking screwing when he phoned them up to tell them he'd done it without them. Can you imagine?!
I can sympathise from personal experience. It's a nightmare trying to get an ascent on camera sometimes when it's at the climbers limit. When Neil Dyer and Pete Robins were trying the FA of Megalopa on LpT I spent about a month filming nearly every go. In the end they weren't that close and I couldn't keep filming forever (I like to climb too!). Then 5 weeks or so later I was working the route to the left and Dyer was about To have a go so I clipped into a Bolt and pulled up my camera and he did it that go. So lucky. I can only imagine trying to get a 5 year project on film.
This was discussed at length when the Ellis Butler Barker controversy was going on. The wisdom of UKB decided that there is absolutely no excuse for not getting absolutely everything on film and uploaded to Vimeo. If you're more into climbing than making wanky films you're just not cut out to be a pro climber.
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Norway, into a car and THEN driving to the crag footage.
From NORWAY? Bloody long drive, especially in winter.
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They didn't get the successful ascent on film.
I thought they did?
Just checked and while the people making the film weren't there when he did it, Nalle filmed it himself. I missed that detail when I read it at first. The post is on the "Blue Kangoo Films" Facebook page post from October 24th.
So expect 29 minutes of beautifully shot scenes of Nalle making coffee, packing his rucksack, walking through a forest, chalking up in slow motion etc., followed by 30 seconds of phone-in-a-shoe send footage. ;)
I bet they were fucking screwing when he phoned them up to tell them he'd done it without them. Can you imagine?!
I can sympathise from personal experience. It's a nightmare trying to get an ascent on camera sometimes when it's at the climbers limit. When Neil Dyer and Pete Robins were trying the FA of Megalopa on LpT I spent about a month filming nearly every go. In the end they weren't that close and I couldn't keep filming forever (I like to climb too!). Then 5 weeks or so later I was working the route to the left and Dyer was about To have a go so I clipped into a Bolt and pulled up my camera and he did it that go. So lucky. I can only imagine trying to get a 5 year project on film.
This was discussed at length when the Ellis Butler Barker controversy was going on. The wisdom of UKB decided that there is absolutely no excuse for not getting absolutely everything on film and uploaded to Vimeo. If you're more into climbing than making wanky films you're just not cut out to be a pro climber.
That's a wee bitty of an exaggeration Will. Nalle filmed something significant.
Noone really gives two shits about the need for footage if it's a non controversial non news worthy problem/route.
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Maybe in bond films they should have a little caption that flags up '15 people about to be wasted by semi automatic fire' just before it happens...
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:lol:
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Maybe in bond films they should have a little caption that flags up '15 people about to be wasted by semi automatic fire' just before it happens...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYQ-u9mnUGw
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I'm voting by a 5 minute montage intro of every move from every angle, zoomed in and wide angle, all mashed together randomly followed by another 15-20 minutes of metaphorical waffling by the world's best climbers about grades and the relative meaning of grades (or just this: https://vimeo.com/6048642 (https://vimeo.com/6048642)), followed by another 10 minutes or approach, coffee, driving, pad setup, cleaning holds, etc., and then the credits rolling during the send footage so we don't even et a clear view of the send...
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Fucking love that DG vid
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"Are you a wizzard of climbing?" - what I love about that is the spelling hints at the enormous influence that Roy Wood's 1970s glam rock outfit still has on modern hard boulderers. DG wishes it could be christmas every day.
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well, Nalle's videos have certainly taken a turn. I never had him down as zero-thatch.
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:tumble:
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Well he fooled us all, I wasn't expecting that. Anyway, different to the usual driving to the crag and slow mo chalk hanging in the air footage
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Get in.
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definate dab in 3rd video at 17:28
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:o good job it's the weekend and I wasn't at work!
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Well WELL. :w00t:
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I was at work, think I broke the world record for clicking the close tab button....
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Why is this thread atracting so much spam. This is the fourth or so post now.
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Lap pr0n Project?
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Why is this thread atracting so much spam. This is the fourth or so post now.
I assume it's because it's the first thread on the home page
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someone had posted a load of pr0n that is now deleted
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Got any beastiality?
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I wish Nalle would just post up his phone-in-shoe footage and be done with it.
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Even for the difficulty-focused training monks among us I predict this will be a dull watch. It's a tiny bit of rock with a few basic moves that'll look like 7A when edited up.
On the subject of single route films/shorts, there are a few goodies about I think, and also some terrible ones. Equilibrium has to be up there on my worst list. All the 'Leo goes to climb a big wall' ones are generally not great. Realisation dose was good for the time. Quite like that Silbergeier one.
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Not long left to wait - 8th February is the date according to Nalle's Facebook.
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Film is now available.
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https://vimeo.com/ondemand/thelappnorproject17 - £7.34, that's 43 pence per V grade.
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I have far too high hopes for this film, I see wild disappointment in my imminent future.
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https://vimeo.com/ondemand/thelappnorproject17 - £7.34, that's 43 pence per V grade.
Almost sounds worth it when you put it like that.
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Anyone watched it? Any good?
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This from Crusher Holds on FB "Crackers boulder ... its not bad for a film about 1 problem... 30 mins... you get a good feel of how much effort went in."
Make of that what you will.
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I just watched it. Pretty good for a film about a dude sitting under a piece of rock for 4 years. Id watch it again.
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I, oddly, wasn't disappointed. V good.
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Really good actually, I was pretty cynical but enjoyed it a lot.
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After a crap day I bought it in a fit of what the fucks and don't regret it. Its good.
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I'm thinking about buying it, so don't give away any plot spoilers please.
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He climbs it.
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Bruce Willis is actually dead that's how he sees ghosts
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He climbs it.
Or does he?
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Bruce Willis is actually dead that's how he sees ghosts
Thanks for spoiling Die Hard with A Vengence for me, I was going to watch that at the weekend.
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Bruce Willis is actually dead that's how he sees ghosts
Thanks for spoiling Die Hard with A Vengence for me, I was going to watch that at the weekend.
Yippee ki-yay, motherfucker!
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Bruce Willis is actually dead that's how he sees ghosts
I though it was himself from the future he sees?
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Bruce Willis is actually dead that's how he sees ghosts
Thanks for spoiling Die Hard with A Vengence for me, I was going to watch that at the weekend.
He didn't specify which Die Hard!
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nice to see a wad go through real life struggles like the rest of us, what a line if i ever get good enough to even attempt the moves im going!
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I enjoyed it!
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I'm unlikely to buy this but it sounds good. Perhaps not as good as Richie Crouch's curry eating documentary mind.
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Now that I would pay for!
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No need to pay...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bn3X3YqCPVs
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I'd definitely pay for an extended DVD version with extras, interviews with Noor chefs, "where is he now?" that kind of thing...
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He's gonna have to get back on the curries if he wants his 3xBW deadlift to be at all meaningful.
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Just watched this on train home. Thought it was a brilliant inspiring piece of work. Much better than most I have seen over the last few years.
Loving the fact he only had the trees to see the climax.
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I really enjoyed this. I thought it was a really nice portrait of the climb and its intricacies and there was a surprising lack of navel gazing about the grade (arguably it was unnecessary given how self-evidently nails it is).
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Thought it was a decent watch, for one it shows how different we all view a siege or longstanding project. Looking forward to seeing others get on this.
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I watched a film noir about a man who expresses his serious gambling addiction through rock climbing and has had to sell most of his furniture as a result.
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I found it enthralling. Totally inspiring, that's what I want to see from top climbers. The doubt and commitment to something so unlikely is much more impressive than just globetrotting between the usual venues knocking stuff off quick. Nalle's a hero.
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I also thought it was good (apart from the silly dice rolling). Just a shame there wasn't more raging. I couldn't really relate to it because he didn't once fling a shoe into the trees or punch his crash mat.
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sell most of his furniture as a result.
BEST COMMENT EVER, Genius
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They did overdo the dice rolling a bit....
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Really liked that. It's the first slower paced, "thoughtful" bouldering film I can ever really remember enjoying. I thought the gambling metaphor was fairly apt and not too overplayed.
Also, Finnish is a great language to swear in!
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I enjoyed it and found it inspiring as well, capturing the craziness and obsession. Well worth the euros.
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I was smiling at the end. As impressed with the determination as the actual climbing.
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I'm sad he changed his beta, the left handed move to the penultimate hold was absolutely ridiculous to watch.
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Really good little film. The dice thing got a bit boring though. Other than that, well worth £7
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For someone with a short attention span, this held my attention very well for the duration. Good work! :thumbsup:
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I didn't think it was as good as splinter
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I didn't think it was as good as splinter
Nothing is even remotely as good as Splinter!!!
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Here it is for free for the next 5 days apparently:
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/experience-story?cid=nalle-hukkataival-the-lappnor-project&utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=experience&utm_campaign=nallehukkataivallappnorproject (http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/experience-story?cid=nalle-hukkataival-the-lappnor-project&utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=experience&utm_campaign=nallehukkataivallappnorproject)
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Here it is for free for the next 5 days apparently:
Thanks Jack, just watched it, like everybody else really enjoyed the film. It shows Nalle's tenacity and dedication. It is mind bending how smooth he makes it look when he finally sends the problem. The moves all look pretty next level.
Nalle's film will only be topped by Shark's The Siege blockbuster. I am sure that there are weeks of video footage that could be edited down to make a feature length film of a similar quality. ;D
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Cheers Jack!
Fucking hell, that was superb. After years of it being filmed and monitored with various camera crews about, I think it's fitting he succeeds on his lonesome. Bravo!
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Amazing! The best 32 minute film about 42 seconds of climbing I've ever seen.
Didn't mind the dice shit. The whole random factors thing resonates pretty heavily with me.
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Yeah, that was a mint short film. The dice and cards were fine, there wasn't even that much of it. Such a good looking problem, just pure hard climbing.
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8 hand moves from start to finish. So pure.
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I was very relieved not to see a mat dab on the final go
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Am i right in thinking that I can't Chromecast this?
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depends on how your dice filter is set up
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Great film.
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I loved it too. Happy to see my cynical predictions earlier in the thread were so wide of the mark! I don't think you could make a better film about a single problem.
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Cheque's next project: Full feature length documentary about a single deadhang personal best. Won't be too much lugging 200kg of static rope around ;)
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I should have filmed my year-long siege of Lurcher Direct at Bell Hagg. It had it all- fickle conditions, trying the same move over and over, yelling frustration, training, questioning the grade and my sanity and the belief that I was finally going to do it on every visit. It also would have needed far less walking, no driving and 99% less static rope.
The ending- another local pointing out a positive sidepull inches away that I'd somehow never noticed and me doing it easily the next go, probably wouldn't have had the same climactic effect as in the Lappnor film though. :slap:
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Just finished watching it for free and i'd like a refund on the 30 minutes of my life I just wasted!
In summary he got some bad conditions, he changed his beta a couple of times and realised redpointing boulder problems is not the way forward.
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About the dice thing...what we call a 'low percentage' or 'on/off' move the French call 'aléatoire'. 'Aleatorio' also exists in Spanish though I'm not sure if it gets used much in climbing. Alea is latin for die. As in 'Alea iacta est'- 'the die is cast', from crossing the Rubicon. Maybe dice analogies are part of Finnish climbing vocabulary too.
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Just finished watching it for free and i'd like a refund on the 30 minutes of my life I just wasted!
Wow - that's an alternative contrarian opinion right there. I don't know how to respond to that except I don't get what you don't get. For me it is an honest, insightful, authentic and compelling film culminating in the World's hardest problem. What's not to like.
Have I just been had?
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Don't get the comment either, weird.
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I thought it was great. Different from the usual stuff that comes out, everyone loves a good siege!
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I like Nalle and i'm impressed with the problem but the film didn't grab me. The dice/poker stuff just seemed unneccessary and I didnt find Nalle's dialogue engaging.
Each to their own I suppose.
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I thought it was excellent. I quite liked the darkness of it (including the music). I'm pretty bored with the bouldering film 'genre', this felt very different.
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Pretty sure Hamfunk's allowed his own opinion on this, even if he is wrong.
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I liked the film, thought it did its job really well. Hamfunk has a point about the dice being overdone, just a few rolls here and there would complement Nalle's point about stuff outside your control needed for a successful ascent.
Not sure about the brevity of the end though. Either it was to back up his point that when it's over, it's abrupt. Or maybe just not considered important.
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I enjoyed the telling of the story about the worlds hardest Boulder problem, and the dedication that it required, including all that time. But it was a little humourless which no doubt reflects the single minded determination needed to succeed at that level. For entertainment though, I enjoyed the recent LittleCunt video and the recently rediscovered Lifetime Project. They were more inspiring to me personally but that might just be because they were by comparison punter problems.
There was a podcast interview with Nalle a year or two ago when he was still working Lappnor that was quite insightful. From memory, he said the hard climbs were basically just pulling on small crimps and there wasn't much to it beyond that. Find the smallest holds you can hold, crimp on, pull up. He gave the impression that it was basically a bit boring so I guess the film is in keeping with that.
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Is nalle in the north york moors at the moment as i spoteed a blue beamer with number plate V17 WAD
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Is nalle in the north york moors at the moment as i spoteed a blue beamer with number plate V17 WAD
:clap2:
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8107/28715328403_3ea4e9b197_c.jpg)
Dave Macleod spotted waiting for the ferry to Orkney last summer.
(https://flic.kr/p/KKtyH2)
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So much better than my "UKC" number plate
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We've chipped in and are going to buy you PUN 73R for your birthday.
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https://youtu.be/4DQf7aGO1uU
Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk
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Nice, very eloquent. No mention of the Sisu project? Or is that a bit hypothetical?