UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => for sale / wanted => Topic started by: Fiend on February 14, 2020, 12:25:56 pm
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Preferably with the bare minimum of ticking although a bit of wear and tear is okay. As much as DAJones has some bewilderingly choadly climbing views and the guide aesthetics are like Wingdings dog puke, I've found them to be vaguely useful so time to own one or both. Ta.
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You've made some controversial post over the years, but don't you think you might have gone a step too far this time....
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Sorry :-[ I'm not cool enough for 7+8 and having tried the JW one last time I reluctantly found it actually got me to the bloques and problems....
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Jingo Wobbly..!
WHOOOO?
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Shurrup. I'm hoping one of you poor sods got a Jingo Wobbly guide for Xmas from an unknowing great aunt who just know than Fountain Blue place was somewhere you climbed on rocks, and you chucked it in a cupboard in disgust and went back to wanking furiously over the minimalist design and maximalist numbers in 7+8 and now have the opportunity to get rid of the offending JW guide....
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Shurrup. I'm hoping one of you poor sods got a Jingo Wobbly guide for Xmas from an unknowing great aunt who just know than Fountain Blue place was somewhere you climbed on rocks, and you chucked it in a cupboard in disgust and went back to wanking furiously over the minimalist design and maximalist numbers in 7+8 and now have the opportunity to get rid of the offending JW guide....
So says the man who paints toy soldiers when he is not surfing the tinterweb for camo wifebeaters. If anyone had a great aunt who gave him dodgy Christmas prezzies.
Do I need to say anymore. :jab:
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How about the 5+6 guide, which has the same cachet as 7+8 but at a more approachable grade range, with the added benefit of not looking like windows 95 puked all over it.
https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/france-font/bartvan-raaij/5-6-central-fontainebleau-part-1
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:-\ From the reviews for 5+6:
''Books ok covers lots of ground but the topo's are a bit naff and not having any pictures can make orientations yourself difficult, I'd say the book lacks detail and is very basic but this is due to the volume of information.. A friend had the jingowobbly book and that was a lot clearer when picking routes so would probably suggest that instead''
But still.. Jingo Wobbly..
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Used the jingo guide this time round in font and it's a million times better than 7+8. Not sure why it's getting hate.
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As 85% of 7+8s is wasted on me I've never considered it.
Struggled with the Montchausse guides for years, bought Fun Bloc for the kids circuits and it actually helps you get to blocks and find problems. Found it so useful I bought the other one too which is just as helpful.
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I also own two Rockfax guides, both of which were gifts. Both live in the smallest room rather then the depths of a cupboard.
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Webbo it's making Quake levels and searching for fluorescent wife-beaters these days! I'm more concerned about my shocking typos in that post though, I can't even blame predictive text, it's just me being shoddy.
Hadyn, JW design is eye-bleedingly ugly and DAJones has come out with some right bollox views in the past. But if it gets one to the bloques... Now does anyone have one to sell me cheap? ;)
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The jingo wobbly maps and problem information is full of errors. The layout is awful (why is the boulder next to this one always 8 pages back in the book and covered on a different map?) and the lack of words makes it all soulless. But it does eventually get you where you want to go. The introduction sections are also comedy gold.
The information in 7+8s is far more accurate but the lack of pictures means you have to look elsewhere if you are to get psyched for particular problems. And the navigation of 7+8s gets dated quickly. Once a circuit has been repainted, you have little else to show where you are. This affected the grey 7+8s at probably 50% of crags on our last trip.
If you could only take one guide and you were a mixed ability group looking to run around and climb things, I would take jingo wobbly every time. If you are going with the aim of climbing specific problems, it would be 7+8s.
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Well said sdm. Pros and cons to them so a well rounded Font library should include all.
Which is why I won't be selling mine Fiend, sorry.
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About £20 each on ebay
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Agree with the above. Both are useful. The newest 7&8s is not as good as the white one. The star rating has become ‘dumbed down’ with every big prow seemingly getting a black star whether or not it climbs well/is dabby etc (Home, Le Calice, Coup d’Epaule spring to mind). And it’s not great for a lot of spread out areas both in terms of finding stuff and what’s there. First world problems etc..
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Sounds like there’s an opportunity for a decent guide or three then??
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Problem (?) with Font is there's just so flipping much there! Imagine it'd be a fairly substantial undertaking / impossible to document all c. 30,000 boulder problems, plus photos, plus nice descriptions, plus history and action shots in one place...
Even just doing the 7th and 8th grade problems sans pictures leads to a very weighty tome.
I think bleau.info is a pretty incredible resource and probably the go-to place really, then just use the guides for navigation and having something physical.
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A summary guide of the best / larger spots. Like boulder Britain but obvs all about Font?
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A summary guide of the best / larger spots. Like boulder Britain but obvs all about Font?
Just in case Font isn’t honeypotted enough?!
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A summary guide of the best / larger spots. Like boulder Britain but obvs all about Font?
Just in case Font isn’t honeypotted enough?!
Indeed a victim of extensive honeypotism:) But what else could you do. Though - IMHO grimers guide is a good model as it has a fair bit of esotetica in there as well as the main sites etc...
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Cheers Hose. I do like exploring a bit off-piste sometimes over there but I'm not a very regular visitor. Hence aiming for the JW TS guide.
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I always thought the stone country essential Fontainebleau was a really good little guide. Pocket size. Doesn’t try to cover everything. Just highlights the best problems across the grades in each area. Then you can just use bleau.info for everything else. Maps are always decent. Nice photos and pretty cheap. Might fill your need fiend.
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A summary guide of the best / larger spots. Like boulder Britain but obvs all about Font?
I quite like the Off Piste guide for this.
I've got a JW guide from about 14 years ago, you are welcome to borrow it.
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I also own two Rockfax guides, both of which were gifts. Both live in the smallest room
What's the absorbancey like?
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I also own two Rockfax guides, both of which were gifts. Both live in the smallest room
What's the absorbancey like?
Covers are good for roaches.