UKBouldering.com
places to visit => indoor walls => competitions => Topic started by: Durbs on November 26, 2018, 09:44:16 am
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Overall - fun little comp. Well filmed, climbers obviously having fun and I like the format.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKDzLY-H670
I know some people aren't a fan of Liam, but aside from the move-by-move commentary, I enjoy his enthusiasm.
Kind of odd seeing Sharma there. He's definitely a legend, but to invite him and then set almost exclusively nu-skool problems was pretty harsh - we didn't really get to see him climb.
I liked the two options on the on-sight route - interesting they all went the same way, though it was perhaps a touch too easy as they all flashed it.
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This is really good. Thanks for posting that up :2thumbsup:
Fascinating to see the relative strengths and weaknesses, which suggests a lot about how tactical the comps might become.
Always a brave move to commentate to a large audience. I'm not up to speed with current comp styles, so Lonsdale's input is really useful.
Quite funny, the way the image gets burnt out occasionally when the lights reflect off the top of his bonce though ;D
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Entertaining overall. Although the problems were a bit jumpy / parkoury, the amount of interesting cranking after the parkour was rather watchable.
Lonsdale makes Boscoe seem palatable.
Sharma was totally the wrong legend for this competition and a daft choice. Nalle / Daniel / Jimmy / Dai or somewhere would have been more interesting and feasible.
Some of the varied route reading was really cool.
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I understood from a popular Stockholm indoor vlog that the parkour parts of the problems were rather easy as well. (Good indoor climbers, but far from world class, didn't seem to have much problem with those parts of the problem).
I have a really hard time understanding the point of invite only comps. (Well, except if you have a board and want to invite some mates, of course).
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I miss the original version of these comps where the climbers all set a problem each. I still do like the idea of the worked problems giving us something harder than in a regular world cup, and I did still really enjoy this edition, but the biggest draw for me was seeing each climber's style in their own problem, and how that contrasted with the others at the comp. Probably would have given Sharma more to do here too.