UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => the blog pile => Topic started by: comPiler on February 09, 2012, 12:03:18 pm
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get bloggin’ (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=19)
29 January 2012, 7:50 pm
here we go…
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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training, more training and… a rock climb (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=58)
30 January 2012, 10:54 am
The last few months have seen very little rock climbing. Through a mixture of poor weather, work and other commitments the majority of my climbing has been indoors. For once this hasn’t bothered me to much, my motivation has been to try and keep fit over this winter for some of my objectives in the summer but after a glorious weekend a bit back (when I was in London working at the outdoor show) it all became to much and I skived off some work and went out.
First off I went and played around on some things at Brook Side at Froggatt. I hadn’t climbed here before so it was nice ferreting around stuff. Did Old King Cascade which was quite nice climbing in a lovely position – the waterfall and stream were all semi frozen. Bumped into John Welford up at Les Grand Doigts and after various falls and scrapes John got up it but I couldn’t. Went over to The Screaming Dream a classic Mark Leach route from the ’80s. John had made the 4th ascent of this a few weeks earlier and gave me all his beta – I was keen for a go.
Went back again the next day (more skiving off work) with Ben P and set up a top rope. The moves came together pretty quick – Welford had been talking 8A for the sequence (Welford 8A gulp) but I managed to find a little bit of heel and got it almost straight away on the lead (I say ‘lead’ both me and John opted for pre placed and clipped cams rather than pre placed and clipped wires as the wire slot is getting pretty worn so it is essentially a boulder problem)
Got a little video from a return visit with Dave ‘the editor’, my daughter (May age 5 1/2) did a fair bit of the filming so be kind. Filmed on my GoPro so it isn’t as small as it looks, honest.
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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another little video (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=89)
31 January 2012, 4:13 pm
Finally found and put together some footage I had from doing a ground-up ascent of Superbloc. This was either last winter or the one before!
I did this the same year I did Careless Torque and this took a lot more effort – I fell off the undercut move near the top 16 times in a row before I had the go you see in the film (did have all this on film but can’t find it at the moment) It doesn’t have quite the same purity of line as Careless, it is also (probably, ask Nigel) a bit lower but the climbing is absolutely superb.
I first tried this a fair few years ago before the landing was improved, I only had a couple of goes that day, there was a big team trying it; Gaz, Andy Earl, Ben Moon and others. No one was making much impression on the hard move except Ben, he was doing it most goes but was lacking the balls to commit to the top – or at least that’s how it looked! I was really impressed with Ben’s climbing that day, it’s a pretty subtle move up the arete and he had the body position just right to hit the little pocket almost statically, we were all slapping wildly with little chance of holding it.
The year I came back and did it the landing had been built out a bit (we had 15 pads that first day) and as soon as I had good conditions I started to feel pretty close – I was getting through the hard move most sessions. The two sessions before I did it I got past this crux move every go but fell of just after every go – a little slap up with the left to a good hold. No one I spoke to who had done it (or fallen off the top) had found this move tricky. I think I just got convinced I was doing it wrong or was just gonna fall off every time. The day I did it I was on my own (had Klem but he was no help) and I just decided to satch it up – I didn’t really bother warming up – yes what you see in the video was it – but I felt conditions were good and I had nothing to hold me back.
As there was no young child to film and Klem doesn’t have opposing thumbs the angles not that exciting – it is all off tripod.
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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snow, snow and A B C D (airway, breathing, circulation…) (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=99)
5 February 2012, 7:50 pm
We have had, were it not for last years mammoth dump, a decent amount of snow here in the Peak. Snow is always exciting and probably more so when you have kids. Unfortunately, I spent most of the weekend lying in the snow pretending to be unconscious whilst stuck on a two day wilderness first aid course in Hope. I knew I would be missing out on sledging and skiing with May but the text from Adam suggesting a quick Back Tor hit was almost too much for me. A lot of people complain first aid courses can be a bit dull (this one was pretty good though) so to make things more exciting for my fellow attendees I decided to faint half way through a particularly gruesome bit (actually just talking about insulin pens) to give them some real life experience. I came around safely in the recovery position covered in an emergency blanket. It was only the instructor who had done anything as everyone else thought I was getting down to do some push-ups (in the snow in the middle of a first aid course??). I did manage to pass and only the one faint.
On the climbing front had a nice couple of days last week. Went to two crags I had never been to before: Running Hill Pits – quality but icy, needed ice axes to top out Scoop de Grace and Anston – nice venue but it hurt my fingers. Also fitted in a trip to eatswood with Benpy for some unfinished business from last year. When Caff was over in the peak we headed here one (very very) cold day and tried Lip of Fools but not only was it hard but we were also absolutely baltic and had no success. This time things felt a lot better and I got to pretty much the last move first go – wasn’t really expecting such a big move at the end! Dispatched it next go. Ben had a good couple of goes but didn’t really have the psyche for a full on go. Rubbish little video here all from gopro strapped to the tree with the side runner in:
Moved on to Stanage for some nice pottering only to rush off to pick May from school just when BP needed a decent spot. Will have to get him out again as he has held my ropes plenty in the last couple of weeks.
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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speed solo, back tor, winter (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=103)
9 February 2012, 9:39 am
After the frustration of missing most of the snow at the weekend I found some time to nip out mid week. Prob fair to say conditions ‘on the face’ were not as good as they could have been but it was still nice to use the tools.
Decided to man up and go for the solo on the mighty North Face of:
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/blogs/backtorround.jpg)
Ended up getting over excited and thinking I was Ueli Steck and going for the speed solo, little video of the ascent below. Obviously I am taking the piss.
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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LOL, gonna be following this one, I like the variety of peak-based antics you get up to Ben.
But two videos without Klem?? :???:
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though it best not to take klem to lip of fools crag as it is banned is it not? he might have got shot or something. also, as much fur as he has, he is not a snow dogg - his paws ball-up massively and he can't walk and I was expecting a little more snow up there.
will make up for it and try to do a vid just on klem...
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A video with Klem belaying would be good.
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growl… (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=133)
12 February 2012, 4:34 pm
Had a day’s work for DMM at the weekend attending the GROWL (Great Rockover Winter League) final. Here’s me working hard:
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/growl1.jpg)
And a few hours later, still giving DMM good value for money:
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/growl2.jpg)
Thanks to Chris Fox (http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisfox) for the pics
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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slideshow images (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=135)
12 February 2012, 4:37 pm
Cobbled together a few photos into a short video. Thanks to Adam (http://www.adamlong.co.uk) for, as usual, providing most of the shots.
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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big sunday (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=141)
20 February 2012, 1:44 pm
An excitable 9 Toez was up from London doing his roped access qualification at access techniques (http://www.access-techniques.com/) this week and was around at the weekend for some climbing. I was assured it was going to be ‘big Sunday’ at Robin Hoods Stride and when the weather was so nice on the morning we all headed out to meet up. May had a party to go to in the afternoon but was keen for a bit of climbing first. Unfortunately she has got some blisters from her ski boots (lots of skiing over half term holidays at the ski slope in Shef and the snow dome in Manch) so couldn’t handle the pain of her rock boots – I think her feet have grown a bit, so she ended up clumping around in her snow boots.
A big crew turned up and it was really nice cruising around enjoying the banter. May and Kath headed off to the party but I had a bit longer and joined the rest of the crew at the Green Boulder and did and then watched the antics on Zaff’s Mantel – a bit too much indoor climbing I think Harry!
Ended up getting involved in a project up the scoop to the left. Ned ‘the champ’ did some good work with his brush and after about an hour we had cobbled together some kind of sequence for the start.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/robinround1.jpg)robin hoods scoop photo adam long The sequence was pretty palm dependent! After a go each where we were both stood up in the scoop it was looking like it was going to go down, decided it was time to show the champ whats what and dispatched (rather shakily) next go:
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/robinround2.jpg)robin hoods scoop top out photo adam long Champ then walked up it after. Probably in the 7B+ region and don’t have a name yet (you will probably be glad to hear)
Did a bit more over by Grizzly Arete including a novel outwards facing ascent of Mock Beggars Wall E4 from Adam.
Made another little vid from the day – don’t get too excited as most of it is from the gopro strapped to a tree or on the end of a long pole!
There is also another little vid from the day (with a bit more of the project on it) from Nye cooper on facebook. (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151324313905691)
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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Probably in the 7B+ region
Yeah Ben. Now I know why I grew this beard... chinny RECK ON!
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big sunday (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=141)
20 February 2012, 1:44 pm
An excitable 9 Toez was up from London doing his roped access qualification at access techniques (http://www.access-techniques.com/) this week
Is there anyone who doesn't work in rope access nowadays! (obviously there is!)
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Probably in the 7B+ region
What's it called, Bert Raccoon/Tutankhamun?
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Is there anyone who doesn't work in rope access nowadays! (obviously there is!)
Just Ben I think.
Seriously though folks, its a growth industry. Get involved! ;)
What's it called, Bert Raccoon/Tutankhamun?
:great:
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Is there anyone who doesn't work in rope access nowadays! (obviously there is!)
Just Ben I think.
Seriously though folks, its a growth industry. Get involved! ;)
Can you suggest any decent training centres in the Sheffield area then Adam? :-[ ;)
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Nice "whos who of UKB" video there. Plus obligatory Klem!
Can't view the facebook video, could you get it mirrored please as I'd like to see more of the project...
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Nice "whos who of UKB" video there. Plus obligatory Klem!
Can't view the facebook video, could you get it mirrored please as I'd like to see more of the project...
just added the Klem/may bit to keep y'all happy!
think I have updated the facebook link so it should work now (or just go on fb and search for nye...)
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http://www.facebook.com/search/results.php?q=nye&init=quick&tas=0.08960573127166221# (http://www.facebook.com/search/results.php?q=nye&init=quick&tas=0.08960573127166221#)!/profile.php?id=798060690
Part way down there. Nice footage of the new thing and Johnny Showpunter.
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Could someone put it somewhere where those of us not on Farsebook can watch it?
That new problem looks really cool.
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Get with the 20th century blondie!
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Already with the 21st girlfriend. I skipped Facebook and went straight for Twitter. Where's my hoverboard?!
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Well go "tweet" Nye Cooper and ask for the video, then :P
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the cave that keeps on giving (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=147)
1 March 2012, 11:56 am
Had a few good days climbing and training since the day at Robin Hoods. After doing so much on the plastic in the last few months I wanted to get out on the rock and see what – if any – improvements had been made. Went and had a couple of quick sessions down at Dog’s Dinner Buttress in Cheedale trying Smittons excellent Pedegree Chum. I had been on this a bit two summers ago and had been struggling on the bigger links but straight off this time it was feeling a lot closer. Things are still a bit wet on it so the full ascent will have to wait (may also have to wait for me to get a little fitter) but I definitely left feeling positive.
Although I had just had three hard days climbing and training I ended up heading over to Llandudno yesterday for a cave session. I had some unfinished business from last year – Petes link of Lou into Bonnie (F8c+?) but when we got there it was just a bit too wet for a proper go so switched to trying to trying Rock Atrocity into Bonnie. After a quick play on both to refresh the sequences decided to give it a blast and managed to spanner it off the last move – been a bit of a punter and forgotten to dry the last right hand hold. Escaped into Dyers van to refuel and rest for an hour or so and then, a little tireder than the first go, managed to get back to the last move. Even after drying the hold was still a little damp and with visions of another slam down starting to enter my head decided to get on with it and things just stuck. Don’t really know the grade but a text from Pete: “p.s, got to be F8c” and “split grades are whack!” probably means I should up it from the F8b+/c, Font 8A+/B and stick with F8c.
Got some video of it all:
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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If Dorsal Stream is 8c+ then surely so is this? I dont get how this can be anywhere near 8b+ when you think of 8b+ routes in Britain. Pumpy font 7c into hard 8a. Something like walking mussel is a 2 move font 7c with not much else to worry about. Mecca etc.. The climbing on this is so much harder and sustained :shrug: :shrug: :shrug: effort!
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F8c/+??
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The beasts baffle me with their numbers ;D
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think this is sig easier than bonnie sitter (dorsal shit name) Lou is 7C+ and RA 7C for a start, also Lou is much more body tensioney which when we were trying it last year made bonnie feel really hard - both me and Neil were getting into Bonnie feeling pretty fresh in the arms but struggling getting foot out right and then the cross under move as the core is shot (Pete was fine as he had so much momentum up by then). That said I have been training a lot since then and feel a lot fitter (hence shaking out all over Bonnie!) and have no qualms taking the 8c+ tick!
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Fairy muff Ben. RA is hard 7c and LF is soft 7c+. I agree LF will sap more tension but i certainly think RA saps more from the fingers. It's just not comparable to any 8b+/c bit of climbing in Britain though thats why i was confused. I bow to your experience and waddageness. You guys know better than me anyway :bow:
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I think part of the issue with traverses/long boulders is whether they should be/are being graded for how hard they are (the difficulty of the climbing, ignoring everything else) or how hard they are to do (i.e. taking into account the fact that they're easier to work that a route. Is Pilgrimage F9a climbing, or F9a+ climbing but feels 9a because it's easy to work etc.
Traverse of the gods felt very comparable to the super-long 8b+s I did in France around the same time, but if you had to approach it as a route that would feel very different. Similarly, if it was a traverse I suspect Mecca would be soft 7C+. I think most stuff gets graded along these lines of 'how hard is it to do', sounds like El Mocho is keen to grade it the other way (and be harsh with his route grades at the same time!).
For reference, anything which is anywhere near Font 8B is nowhere near F8b+. Ever. In a million years. (In terms of grading it for comparing the actually climbing, not the difficulty to do it.)
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Yes this is why i think boulder problems should be given bouldering grades. I guess the climbing on this is comparable to a F8c/+ route (imagine sticking some bolts in it in Spain every cunt would be taking 8c+!!) but the effort required is less because there is so much less faff and hence is French graded accordingly. Pete made a good point that RA is less moves than LF so its easier than Dorsal Stream. He reckons this link is soft Font 8b. Scrap the French grades and leave it at that i sayYou've got to remember that despite all the beasts going to the Cave Bonnie still never gets done and that those who can seem to be able to lap it. . The Cave is god damn awesome for power endurance!
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Yes this is why i think boulder problems should be given bouldering grades.
:agree: in general... but....
what about stuff like Trav of the Gods and Pedigree Chum? They're much 'easier' to grade as sport grades - the only way you'd be able to give it a boulder grade would be to decide what sport grade it felt like, then take off ~3 grades and hope the maths works out about right... :shrug:
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Special exceptions i'd say. I'd go for a 30 move cut off point, maybe? :whistle:
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Anything over 7 moves is a route.
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Yes this is why i think boulder problems should be given bouldering grades.
+1
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Anything over 2 moves is a route.
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skiing and traversing (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=154)
20 March 2012, 9:32 am
Had a really fun trip skiing in soll the other week, went out with a few family’s from Hathersage and stayed in a catered chalet – ooh posh. The snow and skiing was pretty much perfect for what we were after – it was a little limited and warm for my liking but it meant it worked spot on for the little uns. May was in ski school until 1.30 so we got some time blasting until then (whilst the snow was still good) and then skied with her all afternoon.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/blackrunround.jpg)
May has been skiing a fair bit in the last year – we have joined two ski clubs in Shef, Sharks ski club which is pretty fun and also PPS which is all race training. Pretty humbling when 8 year old kids have your pants down round the poles (although this is probably what I was like at climbing walls as a youth).
During the week away all the kids ability rocketed, May started to use her edges and carve turns a little – still a way off being parallel all the time but getting it on the blues and steady bits of the reds. She managed her first black on the second afternoon in a very controlled manner – big snowplow turns and then traversing the entire slope. Took a long time to get down (although we overtook a few people who had given up skiing and were sliding down on their bums) but she really stuck with it. Had a few bits of fresh snow especially on the friday (no ski school) when we all went off piste for the whole day.
Little vid containing lots of children and not much skiing!
Got back and it had been about 10 days without climbing. On the mon went straight to Dog’s Dinner to get on Pedigree Chum with the hope that with all the rest I would cruise it. I didn’t. I was shit. Even as I was going along it I was think this would be it and it would be easy. Took until the 3rd time for me to realise I was probably a little less fit. Went at it quite hard the rest of the week – 5 days on cumilating in a day at Malham on Bat Route which was ace. Took the ride from the end of the runout to the pocket (not on a link from the ground!) onto the old bolt (very rusty) managed not to scream mostly because Caff was watching and he would take the piss out of me for years to come if I had. Would be good to get some new bolts in this…
Had the weekend resting and then yesterday back to Dog’s Dinner. Different story this time around. Had a go when my foot popped and then next go did it (ish – only climbed the first 2 sections up to the point it goes up really high, it seems natural to stop here – the climbing up to this point is very continuous, difficult and close to the ground. It then gets a lot easier and much higher to then get the final tricky wall. I was never really inspired by the last section, I would be keener to push on with Steves version instead (which carries on low at this point) but this would obviously be desperate)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/dogdinnerround.jpg)
I think the original (full) trav got F8c+? I don’t know what this version is, When I did the last bit on its own I didn’t feel it was that hard but after 30mins of hard climbing (that’s how long it took me, I had my ipod on so I didn’t get bored on the rests) it could be pretty tricky. Whatever the grade it is probably the hardest piece of french grade climbing I have done.
I just need to transfer all this shuffling fitness to going upwards.
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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May looks a wee ski demon...
LOL @ the Bat Route scream avoidance.
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Effort on the traverse! Be interesting to see what people think of stopping at the flake. I was mulling that over too.
Agree about the bolts on Bat route. I was well afeared on it last year. I did want to re-bolt it this winter, but have never placed a bolt in my life and am a bit nervous about starting on a classic, especially after what Ru and AndyH did to the Kali Yuga belay on their first attempt...
If anyone wants to take me in hand and show me the ropes I could have a go. It would only need the bolt on the runout and the one above replacing really...
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I'm guessing stainless expansion bolts would be fine on BR and they are a piece of piss to place Stu. Plenty of folk in Sheff who could give a quick rundown on placing these i'm sure
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Just emailed Dave Mus about getting some YBF bolts for this (and also to double check it is ok to bolt at Malham at the moment - not allowed during nesting restrictions but I don't think these are in place yet) If it is all ok I will be hoping to get the PBF drill and do this on Thursday (at least drill the holes any how...) As Doylo says resin bolts are easy to place, me and Sam did some a bit back as our first bolts and I have since hung off them all without any failures.
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Winner!
Give me a shout if you want a hand...
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kalymnos (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=159)
16 April 2012, 4:17 pm
Spent 10 days over Easter on Kalymnos. It was awesome. It was a mixture of a family holiday and also climbing and it worked spot on – the crags tended to be in the shade in the mornings and then became too hot mid afternoon so there was plenty of time for chilling on the beach. I haven’t been on many sport climbing holidays since I was a kid – probably only 3 or 4 and I had forgotten how much fun and low stress it is.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/telendosround.jpg)
Did lots of climbing, mostly on sighting stuff and also 4 quick redpoints when the on sights had failed. Nearly all the routes were great, things like Marci Marc, Gaia, Priapos and Super Themelina were some of the stand outs.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/iroxround.jpg)
The climb which I enjoyed the most was probably the one I failed on: Irox on Telendos. Gave this a go on sight and after battling through the whole cave (which was also wet) I blew it on the last hard move up on the headwall. There was one point – part way through the roof - when I asked to be taken but after shouts of encouragement I managed to push on for a few more bolts. It can be hard, especially when hanging on a wet tufa and looking at another one, to give 100% but you can often surprise yourself when you do. I tend to find it a lot easier to try really hard when red pointing – this is partly as the majority of my on sight climbing has been trad stuff and as much as you try hard on trad it tends to be in a more controlled manner with lots of shaking out and fiddling around.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/shellround.jpg)
spot the turtle.
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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North of centre with a red hat. I was looking for a real turtle, it took me ages :-[. Also top of the picture over to the left...
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last few months (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=162)
1 September 2012, 9:14 am
Been a little gap in my posting, this was due to a few things: not done much (since Bat Route), rain, illness and 3 weeks in Canada. The illness I had was pretty funny for a climber – vertigo. Heard a rumor going around the village that I had become scared of heights…
‘oooh he’s got vertigo, can’t even stand up…’
Not being able to stand up was true. Was bad for 3 weeks or so, 1st week was stuck in bed. Standing up or even sitting up led to the room spinning, falling over and feeling sick. 2nd and 3rd week things improved although Caff said my lead of Brimstone E1 at Millstone is the shakiest he has ever seen me.
As soon as I was better Adam Long and I flew out to Vancouver to head to the Bugaboos. Wasn’t ill there but the day I got home the vertigo set in again, not as bad this time but a week later now and I still can’t climb. Bugs were good though…
Will post a few things about it all and to start things off some of the animals.
Adam sorting the car:
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/bugaboos/carwire.jpg)
At the end of the dirt road to get to the Bugaboos you come across a car park full of vehicles like the above. You have to wrap your car in chicken wire, place rocks on the bottom and sticks against the top. I met the reason for this late one afternoon starting the walk in:
This guy was just making his way to the car park for his evening meal, apparently they will eat pretty much anything they can including any rubber they can find on or underneath your car.
At the campsite we had some more hungry animals. The campsite site had metal food storage boxes – pretty understandable – and also large metal poles and hooks to hang bags of climbing gear etc from. These little critters would even eat your climbing ropes if left out:
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/bugaboos/pan.jpg)
We didn’t really have any issues although one did make off with my avocado.
On the drive back to Squamish we stopped to bivvy here:
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/bugaboos/rattle.jpg)
I was a little worried but Adam the animal man said it was the mosquito’s we should watch out for and that was the only reason we were putting up the tent. I have been bitten by mozzies and it is itchy, haven’t been bitten by a rattle snake but I have heard it is a little worse. He said they were more afraid of us than us them. I doubt it.
Spent a lot of time on Bear watch but no joy, Adam was also a bit gutted to miss out on any Wolverines – apparently some had been spotted in the car park although the source is a little unreliable (Matt and Will, possibly too high to distinguish between a Wolverine and a porcupine although in the state they were in I am sure it was exciting)
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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diamond days (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=172)
16 September 2012, 9:42 am
I have still got vertigo, but not as bad. Managed to go climbing. The tides were good so I went over to the Diamond to get on mine and Sams project. Late last year we bolted the extension to the Brute (Dyers 8b from a few years back which some skinny Aussi recently flashed) but due to winter and then bird bans never got much time on it. It was really fun on the route – gave the Brute a quick go but got pumped, was pretty happy though as I didn’t really know what I was doing and got fairly high (and had vertigo – this is gonna be my stock excuse for the next year or so) then went up the top a few goes. Did the top in overlapping halves – it is probably 8b from the end of the Brute to the top. Got worried that one of the local snakes (i.e. Caff) might nick it so put some red ribbon on the 1st bolt (of extension) to keep him off, thought about padlocking a frying pan to it but as Caff would probably just clip that and carry on decided to rely on his morals instead.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/autumn%202012/bigbrute01.jpg)
Black = Big Brute Red = Petes project
Pete was busy trying his project just to the left of the Brute, pretty intense up to half way then a slightly easier (7c+?) finish all the way to the top. He reached a high point and then climbed from a move below this all the way to fall off the last move. Looks really good, Pete estimated 8c+.
Since Dyer has gone to Canada the position of N.Wales’ best climber has become open. Rivalry at the crag was intense:
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/autumn%202012/petecaff.jpg)
Pete: “Ha ha you’re shit I once downgraded an E10 to E7″
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/autumn%202012/caffpete.jpg)
Caff: “I’m way better than him, I downgraded an E11 to E8″
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/autumn%202012/pete.jpg)
Pete happy cause Caff spent the day failing on a route he’d flashed…
I think it’s a draw.
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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World class projects :2thumbsup:
Word on the street is Caff only downgraded Long Hope to usurp Pete's largest downgrade. Pete could claim top honours if he hadn't accidently graded Meltdown 9a ;)
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bugaboos (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=176)
19 September 2012, 6:03 pm
Ever since I saw Alpinist 14 and its article on the Howser Towers I had been keen to go to the Bugaboos and so had Adam. This summer we finally got around to going. There were a few things which excited me about the trip: the climbing looked really good, the area looked really beautiful, it was nicely remote without too much stress and there were good routes of all grades. This last was to prove pretty lucky.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/bugaboos/bugspire.jpg)
N.E. Ridge of Bugaboo spire, 5.8
I have been climbing now for over 25 years and for a fair bit of that time I have been seen as a ‘good’ climber. When I’ve been on trips or gone to crags I don’t normally go with big objectives but I have often got some pretty hard stuff done. I try not to let grades be the measure of success but like the rich man who says money is not important it is easy to say grades don’t matter when you are still climbing hard or improving.
Before I set out on the trip I had (as mentioned before) a pretty severe bout of vertigo, I had 3 weeks where I could hardly walk let alone climb leading right up to the day we flew out. When we were in Canada I felt like I was 100% fit and got on with the climbing. The first few days in Squamish were very hot and humid and we found the climbing hard going. No problem though, once we got up high in the Bugs the temperature would be spot on.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/bugaboos/adam%20aid_zps9f1be919.jpg)
Access Techniques (http://www.access-techniques.com/) head honcho practicing what he preaches, Grand Wall, Squamish
The Bugs were great, really nice looking lines at all grades and a pretty sociable scene at the camping. It became obvious though that I wasn’t climbing as well as in the past. The main objective of the trip had been a one day free ascent of All Along the Watchtower (http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/bugaboos06/) a 3,000 ft 5.12 on the North Howser but after doing the Beckey-Chouinard on the South Howser I didn’t have any desire to step it up onto Watchtower. I was worried I would get cold and tired (doh it’s Alpine climbing…). We did go and do a big route on the North Howser in the end – Seventh Rifle a 34 pitch 5.11 – but by then I had pretty much accepted that I was getting old and starting the decline in my climbing. I was worried whether I would still be happy climbing easier routes but that didn’t seem to be a problem, one of the routes I enjoyed the most was a 5.4 – the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire.
Whilst we were up climbing Will Stanhope (http://www.willstanhope.com/uncategorized/nuggets-along-the-way) and Matt Segal (http://www.mattsegal.com/) were busy working on freeing the Tom Egan Memorial route on Snowpatch Spire. We climbed a route next to them and spent a little time abusing them. It looks hard. Here is a little vid of Will working it. The route he is comparing it to at the end is the A1 Beauty pitch of The Prophet.
Once I got home from the trip the Vertigo kicked back in. Just been to the Docs today and it seems I had it the whole time I was away. Glad I have a reason for being shit. I wasn’t quite ready to be past it…
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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Nice stuff as always.
Can someone explain. There's been a Bugaboos blog, a Diamond blog and a Bugaboos blog. Did you fly home just for a day on the Ormes then return to Canada?
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Grimer that's the most logical thing uve ever written. I'm speechless, luckily I've got opposable thumbs
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Does that mean you can stick both of them up your arse at once?
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No way too awkward, I use inanimate objects for that.
Good blog ben
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No way too awkward, I use inanimate objects for that.
Good blog ben
Thanks Dense, is that the first nice thing you have said on t'interweb or are you just buttering me up so you can borrow my rolling pin again?
Can someone explain. There's been a Bugaboos blog, a Diamond blog and a Bugaboos blog. Did you fly home just for a day on the Ormes then return to Canada?
I like to keep people on their toes. Gonna give it a few days then blog about Parisella's, Squamish and then vertigo...
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Can we have one about top roping please?
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is it a gritstone rolling pin?
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not yosemite (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=185)
1 October 2012, 7:27 pm
I should have been waking up here today:
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/elcapround02.jpg)
but because of my dizziness (have I mentioned my dizziness?) I have had to cancel. It had been pretty obvious to those around me that I wasn’t going to be going for quite a while, but I had been hopeful right until the last minute. After a visit to the doctors, who strongly recommended staying home, and a trip to Spain for Jase and Daisy’s wedding which left me wiped out, I saw sense and decided that getting better was more important than watching Caff and Hazel tear up El Cap (http://www.benbransby.com/?page_id=23).
On the plus side I got to go to the Diamond again. Went over in Sam’s bling new van (a long day driving and climbing still leaves me feeling dizzy) The Brute was so popular we were queuing on it. This guy (http://doylosblog.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/back-to-brute.html) got on it:
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/autumn%202012/doylo01.jpg)
I am not sure if he liked it though:
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/autumn%202012/doylo02.jpg)
I think he is actually pulling that face because it is so good and he has realised that with all our improved beta he might have been able to do it a few years back before he gave it to Dyer.
I had a couple of goes up it to warm up and then managed it first redpoint of the day. I felt ok on reaching the belay, but after all the rain we have had in the last few weeks the extension section was completely soaked so I didn’t even give that a look. Spoke to Pete tonight (he was down yesterday trying his project just to the left) and he was sure it would all dry up in no time. Bring on the good tides next week.
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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Ben - who are you seeing about your vertigo? If its just your GP then hassle them for an appointment with the ear specialists in Sheff. There are a lot of potential causes, from physical damage to migraines so it's worth getting looked at by specialists.
Jules suffered with this a lot over the last three years. In her case it was related to migraines and with a regulated diet and medication she is much better...
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Cheers Stu,
Have just booked an appointment at the ear specialist this morning - I had been putting it off due to my ability to faint at anything even remotely medical (I once fainted having superfeet fitted!)but my wife forced me to do it. Seems like mine is a pretty standard case of Labrynthitis (sp) but the docs did say they can't see the inside of my ears so it is worth seeing the specialist/getting a scan just to check...
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My dad has battled with vertigo for some time now. Your descriptions of being wiped out and not climbing particularly well even on days when the vertigo doesnt seem so bad really struck a chord with him. If you dont mind me asking what have the specialists prescribed you to deal with it?
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Seems like mine is a pretty standard case of Labrynthitis (sp)
Have you been watching too much Bowie?
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Get well soon!!
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Cheers Stu,
Have just booked an appointment at the ear specialist this morning - I had been putting it off due to my ability to faint at anything even remotely medical (I once fainted having superfeet fitted!)but my wife forced me to do it. Seems like mine is a pretty standard case of Labrynthitis (sp) but the docs did say they can't see the inside of my ears so it is worth seeing the specialist/getting a scan just to check...
Good call Ben. Jules got referred to the hearing centre from the ear/nose/throat people. It's well worth trying to get as high up the ladder as you can. Different causes have radically different treatments etc.
Fingers crossed for a quick(ish) recovery - it really is a horrible thing to have.
Stu
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My dad has battled with vertigo for some time now. Your descriptions of being wiped out and not climbing particularly well even on days when the vertigo doesnt seem so bad really struck a chord with him. If you dont mind me asking what have the specialists prescribed you to deal with it?
Nothing yet - see post about only just making an appointment to see the specialist. When I had it at it's most severe I had some drugs which were a little like travel sickness ones (except in some fierce form and normally used in Leukemia patients, also v.expensive, pharmacist nearly passed out when they were picked up think £80 or so just for the weeks supply(I got on prescription)) and they did the trick of getting me so I could at least go to the toilet without being sick. Heard that they can slow down the actual recovery if taken for any length of time and I am past the stage where I feel sick... Is your dad on some kind of medication? What sort of vertigo is it for him?
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Get well soon!
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That sounds awful :(
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Labyrinthitis is really grim and I've only had a very minor attack. I know Falling Down has suffered a fair bit with it. Hope they get it sorted asap Ben.
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I know Falling Down has suffered a fair bit with it.
Hence his name on here? Or is that other falling over related stuff...
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(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ptujwrPnjwM/TJcw4pp4USI/AAAAAAAABlQ/SxcsVws5pnI/s640/Falling_down_still.jpg)
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Could be BPPV...I got exercises to do which helped a lot. Caused by debris in your eat canal hitting the hairs in their, and the world goes into free fall. Boke inducing at best if you can stay standing.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
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listened to this yesterday and thought of you....may make interesting listening.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b01n11xb (http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b01n11xb)
If the link doesnt work - its 'inside health' on radio 4 - 15:30 yesterday.
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still not in yosemite but not bitter… (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=189)
5 October 2012, 11:04 am
For my birthday I got a hanging stove so that when me n caff were in the portaledge we could cook and make brews without burning everything down (nowhere to escape to if a fire starts, heard a story of some dude setting fire to stuff and moments later all his ropes/attachment points burnt through… …free fall, nasty.)
Could have been brewing up somewhere like here today:
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/elcaptowerround.jpg)
After Caff’s, by his terms, disastrous trip to El Cap last year I think he had some back up partners in case of accidents. Steady Neil has stepped in to take my place. Here is a pic of him from back in 2000 when him and Lee came up to see us on El Cap spire (see first photo)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/ding.jpg)
With Niel along I am expecting big things – keep reading the El Cap Report (http://www.elcapreport.com/) but nothing yet…
Had a little work at The Crag Station (http://www.cragstation.co.uk/) for DMM yesterday so nipped up Kinder on the way. Went to look at the roof with The Mentalist Cupboard and Stigmata on it. They both looked good and there is a possible line through the middle of the roof – it is a pretty comfy highballing height (although getting pads up there would feel a long way)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/autumn%202012/edale02.jpg)
It was all a bit wet and misty so I didn’t really climb. The cycle back down was fun although I think I need some new brake pads and maybe get a bike with some suspension. Klem got a bit tired running behind.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/website/autumn%202012/edale01.jpg)
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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diamond dogs (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=193)
13 October 2012, 5:55 pm
Got back from two days over at the Diamond, it was all getting pretty wet so I felt this would be my last chance of the year to get on the Big Brute, turned out the top half of the entire crag was soaked and as I was on my own on the thursday spent the day bolting. Very hard work. Even the bottom section of the crag – which doesn’t really seep – was soaking. Went and stayed the night at 9stone Robins’. Pete was feeling pessimistic about his chances on the line breaking left out of the Brute, so much so he even had a glass of wine with the meal.
After a chilled morning me and Tommy set off (Pete was gonna meet us there) only to get a call from Pete who was having van issues. Managed to sort it and all got down the diamond a bit after lunch to a surprisingly dry crag, probably the second best conditions I have had down there. I spent the day messing about on the new line (prob in the 8c region if climbed to the top of the crag) whilst Tommy spent the day diving off the top of Dumpster Divers.
Managed to (rather hurriedly for the second go – hence the shaky footage) film both Pete’s attempts:
Was considering editing down the footage a bit but as the bottom was filmed from a better angle the first time left it all in, the only bits I missed was the time shaking out – I had to turn off the camera and jug up the rope to get the top. Pete was only on the rest for about 45 secs so I was fairly out of breath filming the top section!
Was really cool to see this go down (well at least the first half, it’s gotta go all the way to the top, Pete better get back on it next year in the dry…) Probably the hardest ascent I have witnessed and P-Rob was made up with it (see vid!)
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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Nice Ben
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Ron Fawcett, Andy Cave and Me lecture (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=196)
13 October 2012, 6:06 pm
Me, Ron and Andy are doing a lecture on Sat 24th November at the Memorial Hall in Hathersage to help raise money for the skate park which is being built in the village. A bunch of the local kids have been putting in plans and trying to raise money to get the skate park for a few years now and in the last couple of months things have started to look pretty positive. I am excited about it – have been doing a little bit of skating in the last few weeks with May (don’t know who is better!) and the idea of getting on the ramps where it is acceptable to wear all the padding would be nice.
I will be sorting out my exact show but it is likely to be based on ‘my top 10 routes’ things from local to far away… Ron will be doing his early years climbing and Andy will be doing Summer and Winter climbing in Arctic Norway. £8 entry with all the money going towards getting the Peak Districts very own Andy Reynolds (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3pGLX82i38) I will keep y’all informed nearer the time.
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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diamond dogs (http://www.benbransby.com/?p=193)
13 October 2012, 5:55 pm
Pete better get back on it next year in the dry…) Probably the hardest ascent I have witnessed and P-Rob was made up with it (see vid!)
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
Ben you know full well Pete won't go back up there ;)
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(http://www.benbransby.com/?p=199)
28 October 2012, 5:33 pm
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/skateshowflyer-1.jpg)
Email me for tickets!
Source: ben bransby (http://www.benbransby.com)
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Edit: it should say Saturday 24th not Friday. doh