UKBouldering.com
places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: ksjs on November 06, 2008, 10:43:57 am
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i thought this might be a worthwhile addition to the conditions threads. am there fairly regularly so will try to keep it up to date. sadly, i cant start this with good news:
i was there yesterday and its the worst ive seen it since i started going there in early summer - everything was completely sopping so id avoid for some time :(
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Good addition. We need a continous cold snap!
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Erm, didn't we have one last week Tom? :-\
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not great today - one or two dry patches and firestarter etc can be climbed but pockets still damp and under roof is seeping / dripping lots in places. in short not worth going out of your way for right now.
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much better yesterday - nearly totally dry but still some lingering damp / drips under main roof area especially inside the pod on Panty's Down. even UTB had people on it though the LH pinch was a bit damp.
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yesterday was a bit of a mix: perfect conditions on Under The Bridge and the Robert Duvall area but the main area, with the excpetion of the small non-roof section to the left, was wet early on. it dried up as the sun came onto it but the pockets remained damp all day. possibly condensation?
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Was in surprisingly excellent nick today. Would have managed a repeat of UTB except for the continual ant's piss like rain falling on the flatty. The main gorge area was the best and stickiest I had ever felt it. A few people turned up to pull down later on in the afternoon but it was starting to get a bit pissy. All in all, if the rain stays light, going to be worth a session over next few days.
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great conditions yesterday but very hard to get going, just a touch cold.
everything dry including UTB except for very recessed stuff under main roof like the pod on Panty's Down etc
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Is this place good to go now? Bouldering and routes? Must be coming into nick....
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Oh and Are there still bolts in the project finish to the classic 7b?? Down wales next week and just seeing whats what..
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Keen to hear also what nick UTB area is in if you happen to get there Jordan.
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Oh and Are there still bolts in the project finish to the classic 7b?? Down wales next week and just seeing whats what..
AFAIK the bolts on the continuation to Grand Canyon 7b+ (I guess that's what you mean) are still in. Don't know the condition though. If you can get hold of Lee Procter he may well know more.
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Yea Grand Canyon ext, looks a great route. A boulder prob finish after a good rest. I ll try Lee, think it was him who pointed it out to me last time I was there.
Is the under the bridge stuff any good, whats what there??
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TBH Jordan it's been years since I was last there. Again Lee is your best bet.
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Lee told me the bolts are slightly off the route on Grand Canyon extension, should be ok though. under the Bridge is great. jordan get in touch when you come over.
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in great nick 2 days ago: everything, including UTB*, was totally dry (*the hole that you can use with LH at start was damp but this doesnt detract from moves and can be avoided anyway)
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UTB area was mint but shothole was slightly damp. Roof area also sound.
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In very good condition today. A little greasy in the sun but later on it was superb :thumbsup:
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Heading over today any recent updates? :)
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where is this place? and is there a guide?
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There's a section in Clywyd Rock Climbs with a photo topo of the main area. Going to be there on tuesday evening saltbeef with a small team if you're interested.
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would be keen but have a meeting after work...
let us know when you's next going and i shall attempt to attend.
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Cool. Will be there a lot after exams finish soon. Need some serious project/cleaning time!
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Not a wet hold in sight which was nice :)
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Cool. Will be there a lot after exams finish soon. Need some serious project/cleaning time!
Maybe heading here next saturday dude you around? Hopefully doyle or danny will show us around but if not you game? Am psyched!
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It was still bone dry yesterday evening even after all that heavy rain. Not sure how many days it takes to seep through though :shrug:
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Cool. Will be there a lot after exams finish soon. Need some serious project/cleaning time!
Maybe heading here next saturday dude you around? Hopefully doyle or danny will show us around but if not you game? Am psyched!
One time brother. I'd love to get there on saturday but if it's not happening I'm sure one of those lovely backdoor felons will take good care of you! Keep in touch holmes.
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Dave, I'm heading out later and probably will be to the gorge. Did you get here yesterday or are you going today?
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Nay man am down next weekend as in sat. Danny is giving us the tour on sat if your about? What was it like yesterday? It a seeping place or not?
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It was still in good nick today. We will be down there tomorrow evening for another session... so will keep updating! :)
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Cheers that be well useful, psyched to check out this place, it looks goood!
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Any knowledge on conditions?
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Hope it's as sweet as a beaver. Should be man. Are you motoring over at all?
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In good nic saturday and yesterday even though it rained both days. I liked the setting a lot and the climbing was bon. Physical limestone now theres a change!
Effort Mule!
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Effort on UTB flash beast!
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Effort on UTB flash beast!
He had good beta ;)
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Aye good effort! I'd love to get some info on Under Pressure, seemed a bit back scrapingly low to the ground if it goes left of Be Ruthless?!
Did any of team strong get on Sparks at all? Be keen to get a concensus on it in comparison to Be Ruthless..etc :shrug:
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Aye good effort! I'd love to get some info on Under Pressure, seemed a bit back scrapingly low to the ground if it goes left of Be Ruthless?!
Did any of team strong get on Sparks at all? Be keen to get a concensus on it in comparison to Be Ruthless..etc :shrug:
Didn't seem very back scraping, wasn't an issue at all. My weakness was though! :lol:
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effort on 36 Chambers too Mason, good one eh!
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Yeh under pressure isnt back scraping at all, the climbing is really good and the last move, well you gotta love it (drop knees are cheating)!!
Didnt try and link sparks (dont know why) but i did the v6 that it starts up and from the two good pockets to the end. It felt a bit harder than be ruthless probably 7c+ maybe, i reckon the last move would be hard on the link! Again a really cool last move, this place has a lot of them!
Under the bridge is really good to, definately suits the tall i thnk!
effort on 36 Chambers too Mason, good one eh!
Yeh tis quality!
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Did you do UTB with the two crimps Dave or via the camp side foot snag? Brutal the former way and still brutal the latter! Half expected my project to get ticked at a recession price grade :'(
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Project? Where is this?
Got the two crimps, went right hand to the next crimp up then left hand to side pull jug and right hand underneath to flatty! Heel on and out to finishing jug! The rock was tres bon!
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danny did the sit from the tufas to 36 chambers today at hard 7c+, very cool
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Cool!
Ben did the groove the other day from sit start on the tufas get to the mini jug in the groove up to a pocket (which has a stick growing in it) and finish like 36 chambers. Ned did the stand first and it being his birthday it was named 22 chambers (7c).
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If anyone gets to the mwyn in the next 2 days could you please pop into UTB sector and tell me general state of the wall. Thanks.
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Tom, Holger did your project a couple of weeks ago, thought you would have heard?
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(http://www.nicht-nuechtern.de/nn30/wp-content/SadRoo.gif)
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:boohoo:
I wonder if the aesthetic direct sitter is still up for grabs :lol:
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Tom, Holger did your project a couple of weeks ago, thought you would have heard?
Is this true?
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Holger said he did the start to the project route in the guide book involving a big span of undercuts. I'm not sure if that was your project Tom? He reckoned it was about V5/6.
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Unless several years of dedicated (until super recent) training haven't done a sausage, I think I'm safe. There's a loan pinch undercut but certainly not plural. I'm keen to see what he's done actually. More to the point, despite hours of scouring, I'm keen to see if I've done a Si O :-\ ::)
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Tom, we're going down tonight for a session if you're keen?
I'll happily point out where his line went as I'm not really sure where your line was.
BTW It's "lone"....
sorry
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Any info if this venue's a good choice with the current warm/humid weather?
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I'd rather try The Ace in these conditions than climb at the Mwyn.
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Was boners on main roof today. UTB was mostly fine but slightly condensing this afternoon.
Sadly some bell cheddars have had a big fire under the roof. Didn't seem to be any damage sustained to any holds but a black mess at the moment.
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Boners yesterday everywhere. Routes also (are they not banned or something at the moment? Maybe imagining it?)
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any one been whats seepage and stuff like over here?
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had a look yesterday and everything was wet. ended up going to hope mountain and doing a comedy slopey traverse ( your bums about six inches off the ground)
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good to see other people going to hope mountain. An underated classic venue
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Is there any info for Hope Mountain on-line anywhere, its always looked intriguing
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Classic times at Hope Mountain.
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i'll happily give you a tour andy
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even i enjoyed hope mountain
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that was actually monuments, we didn't climb at hope because it was damp. i'll let you off tho
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Anyone know what it'll be like tomorrow?
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if your talking about hope when i went on wednesday there was only the slopey traverse dry ( not the slopey traverse near the lookout another one on the left hand end) because of melting snow , the v5 on the extreme left was almost dry but the tiny
crimp was damp and the top was damp , its been wet in mold today but if the snow s gone it does dry quick because of its exposed nature hope that helps ,no pun intended.
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Ha, no I meant Pantymwyn.
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ah well my subtle attempt to turn this into a conditions report on hope didnt work, but when i went to pantymwyn on wednesday everything was soaking so my guess is dont bother. but if your a fan of esoterica last time i went to monuments i did a cool problem,
which involved starting on the right arete traversing left across the vertical roadside face
around the corner using a kneebar then traversing left across the slightly overhanging face and up using a two finger pocket. no real hard moves but lots of them about 25 and pretty sustained about v5 or 6, and monuments is very quick drying.
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Boners yesterday everywhere.
Sounds like a standard evening round Millso's.
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is there a topo anywhere for pantymwyn or is it in a guide?may check it out on my next trip to parisellas as its virtually on the way and looks pretty decent from the youtube vids
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There is a topo in clwyd limestone to give an idea of lines but its a bit poo and the grades are slightly off.
Doylo's vid of Sam gives a clue to most things and one of Millso's showing Under the Bridge around the corner (at the fence).
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how do you get to the crag at pantymuen, coming from mold?
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any takers on how to get to the crag? i'm getting fat eating pub food. luckily its steak so i'll be at the top of my game. cheers
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I can't find 'Pantymuen' on a map I'm afraid. Is it a new venue?
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I don't think it's that new. Possibly dates back to the Cretaceous period although I'm no geologist so couldn't date it too precisely.
To be more useful; http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?hl=en&source=hp&q=pantymwyn&oq=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=Pantymwyn,+Mold,+Clwyd&gl=uk&ei=B1ufS5TXO5uI0wSW2K2TDA&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CAoQ8gEwAA (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?hl=en&source=hp&q=pantymwyn&oq=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=Pantymwyn,+Mold,+Clwyd&gl=uk&ei=B1ufS5TXO5uI0wSW2K2TDA&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CAoQ8gEwAA)
I don't drive and despite having been to Pantymwyn ten million times I never seem to have taken any notice of road names and such like. Just visual maps in my mind. To which extent Lee, you should phone someone like Mule, Owen, Fatneck, Doyle etc etc.
Be nice to see you sometime soon after the last two years of your mono campussing campaign.
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cave still dry??
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haha sorry wrong thread :S
ill re post...
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I hereby declare the pantymwyn leisure complex open. under the bridge dry (as of friday)
right of under the bridge is dry for hands but some dampness lower down, robert duval area i think is dry. Main area dry completely, lovely to be back .
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anyone been recently? This gaff may be plan b for today.
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If it helps anyone as some people seem unclear of where to park etc, I made two quick PDF's for dense to find it. Just drop me a mail here if you happen to need it. It's hardly a published OS map but it should help.
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A little warm tonight, but otherwise dry and in pretty good nick!
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was greasy last night best time was around 7 till about 9
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Has anyone got a topo they could poin t me to / send me for Pantymwyn bouldering?
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Hi Robin,
I'd imagine the gorge to be a bit smeggy at present. I could be wrong as conditions are a fickle beast to predict but whatever happens, enjoy!
*edit as forgot to read 3 posts below. :-[
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Anyone been recently?
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well it was all dry today
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anyone know the score, may shoot tomorrow...
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good today..... the pantys down/thug mentatlity jug was seeping a bit but dryable and the sparks slots were a bit minging.... the rest was bone.
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good today..... the pantys down/thug mentatlity jug was seeping a bit but dryable and the sparks slots were a bit minging.... the rest was bone.
The jug's still a bit suspect, but it's not alone now, the entire front is all but dry, climbable with a bit of attention but 10/15mins post clean everything's slightly damp again, a good breeze or a bit of sun makes a big difference, particularly bad are the aforementioned jug and the holds on the midsection of thug mentality. Mental extension is pretty much fine barring the sloper, which is pretty crappy when dry :P
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A little bit greasy yesterday, nothing unfixable though, mental extension sloper was in the only bad hold on the link (no surprises there though). I think it can safely be said that christmas eve day it was in the best condition it's ever been when I went down, every hold was like glue (except the thumb catch hold on thug mentality, which was like having a stalactite of inch thick Ice running down it :))
Generally the further to the left the better the holds, a few on the sparks end were v damp.
Also the place looks amazing in the snow.
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Thinking of heading up in a couple of hours, anyone been down recently, or have a good idea of what it'd be like there? Be a shame to make the trip to find it drippy :)
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thats not what I heard I heard you love it a bit drippy
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My indoor and outdoor hobbies have different criteria dexter!
Conditions a bit less than ideal there today, dampish holds, not too bad with a little attention, should be tippity-top tomorrow though if it doesn't rain, especially post 3 0'clock when the face gets some sun.
Only the underside (undercit sit start etc) was drippy, maybe that'll get slightly better as well.
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I've never been so haven't a clue: is it likely to be climable today?
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I seriously doubt it
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was there yesterday firestarter dry apart from the starting jug but you can use the sloper instead, sparks slots damp. pantys down wet and thug mentality but mental extension was bone dry and the robert duval area was dry. Looks like someone s put a new problem up to the right of rober duval about v3 and really cool moves theres a left to right traverse there as well about 7a starting on an undercut blocky fang and finishing on a sloper with white mold spores. Under the bridge area was soaking.
( disclaimer: rained a bit today , any inuendo purely accidental)
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anyone been down recently going here on sunday and was wondering what was wet/soaked/dry?
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everything wet apart from the the robert duval area yesterday. going down tomorrow
to see what its like.
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perfect conditions yesterday every thing dry apart from pantys down and that was climable with a bit of attention. Does anybody know where firestarter direct goes ?
cheers. p.s. lovely day so should be even better today
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perfect conditions yesterday every thing dry apart from pantys down and that was climable with a bit of attention. Does anybody know where firestarter direct goes ?
cheers. p.s. lovely day so should be even better today
Are you a local as I'm hoping to get down there after work from next Wednesday onwards? Would be good to meet up with someone as last year I fair winded myself on some unplanned dismounts and the landing under Pantys down is a bit of an ankle twister.
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yes i live in mold happy to team up ( ive winded myself on pantys down as well)
but i work in the evening and usually go in the morning have wednesdays off so am a
bit more flexible then, cheers
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Bone dry today perfect conditions, does anybody know what firestarter direct into the left hand finish gets?
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not sure, great conditions again today surprisingly seeing as it was damp and horrible yesterday. Was trying firestarter direct into the left hand finish, brilliant ,10/ 11 moves
that all feel about the same difficulty , sustained and quite draining :thumbsup:
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absolutely bone dry now, even pocket on pantys down are dry and footholds.
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All the routes were bone dry yesterday. Take a brush and enjoy some cracking sports routes
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still holding out well, absolutely bone dry as of monday. Even after a week of rain, yes i cant wait to try some of the sports routes got my eye on bannanas and coffee.
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Will it still be holding out? Is there any worthwhile easier climbing? Is Under the Bridge obvious - sorry about the stream of questions.
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yes should be still dry, was bone dry on monday and we were climbing in persistant rain. yes lots of easier stuff for bouldering, juggy traverse to warm up left of be ruthless
and a slopey v4 left of that then the stand up to firestarter is about v4 and really cool.
There's a v4 right of robert duvall and problem 9 in the guide is v4 then problem 8 is about v4 now after a hold breaking, and you can link the two for a v5. then add the juggy hand rail for hard v5, then add a v5 on to the top of problem 9 for a ? then youve got all the problems in the guide. plus gasoline, the stand starts left of firestarter on two crimps foot up on a little bobbin up with right to a v shaped triangle hold that you get with your middle two fingers then go again for a crimp and up left to finish. Under the bridge is just before the fence and gate in the gorge itself on the right. On the route front, starts about 7a+ but echoes is a bit dirty.grand canyon looks allright and im trying ten year fog at the moment 7b+ but all the routes are dry. Ill be there wednesday evening from about 5 if you fancy a session.
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Grand canyon is ace.echoes hasn't been cleaned this year yet
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Hey, the guide book mentions an impressive looking 8b project to Grand Canyon? Do you know whether this worth a look? Are the bolts any good? And has anyone done it yet?
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Lee proctor bolted it and has been trying it for 4 years so unless you want a mans suicide on your conscience i d leave it. :) theres plenty of other potential new routes there
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:oops: I didn't realise it was his project! :-)
I was at Dinbren a couple of months ago and overheard Lee talking about some new routes at Pwll Glas. I've got family in Ruthin so would love to find out about any developments over that way. I went for a look 2 years ago with the Clwyd guide and it seemed as though a load of new lines had already been put up. I appreciate any info!
Also, I just watched the Sam Cattell video on youtube and am psyched for tomorrow! Great soundtrack! :2thumbsup:
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Under The Bridge is literally right under it from a slot up a guppy and/or crimps and then upto a flatty on towards a jug rail Andy. You'll bone the crimps and campus to glory I suspect rather than stretch armstrong type method guppying.
I was working the wall right of Under The Bridge for a while where there's a very small quartz crimp in the middle of the wall with some wide footed nonsense locking this with your left hand ultimately trying to pop to a borehole type bucket slot. I never did it, but the plan was to do the old route project (that I think never got done) from climbing the boulder problem at this direct start. Super direct but a) maybe rubbish and b) often wet. Maybe in summer being on the doorstep boredom will lead me here again.
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I was at Dinbren a couple of months ago and overheard Lee talking about some new routes at Pwll Glas. I've got family in Ruthin so would love to find out about any developments over that way. I went for a look 2 years ago with the Clwyd guide and it seemed as though a load of new lines had already been put up. I appreciate any info!
If you email me I'll send you a topo of all the recent development at Pwll Glas.
Thanks for respecting my Devils Gorge project, As Chris stated I've been trying this pretty aggressively for the the last four years and its now tantalizingly close!
Lee
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The gorge has finally succumbed to dampness. Main bouldering area still dry today apart from robert duvall area and under the bridge.
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All dry again now :2thumbsup:
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wet humid and hot today
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went here for the first time today, wicked area! climbed two routes echos and that small route under the bridge, both were dirty and dusty made life very hard, most of echoes is now clean but not ideal!
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Echoes is dry still, top of grand canyon a bit damp and the extension. Love in the time of cholera and the 7c to the left look dry. Pocket on pantys down is damp and the right hand end is a bit damp. middle section looks ok. under the bridge area is damp and robert duvall area.
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Anybody been there this week?? Will the bouldering be dry tommorow?
Cheers Pete
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What will the bouldering be like down there after the rain recently does it seep a lot? thinking of heading down tomorrow.
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Anyone been down recently or know how it copes with prolonged rain? Thinking it might be the only viable option for friday (or not!).
Ta,
Chris
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Given the previous few days and the next few days forecast, I doubt very much that it will be in decent nick.
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I was there last Thursday and it was climbable with bits of seepage and some wet holds (not that I can get near anything above 7A - did a couple of the easier lines and Robert Duvall) after a couple of days in the sun. I suspect it's got worse since then.....
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Good news, was there today and most of the main area was dry. rob duval area is gopping and so is under the bridge. Panties was a bit damp( need a nappy) but mental extension, sparks, gasoline, firestarter was dry. In fact the rock had that special stickiness which is a joy.
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Sparks is still dry and gasoline and mental extension. Robert duvall area sopping as is the gorge and under the bridge area. Any campus monkeys wanting a perma dry v10 should try sparks :yes: Pantys is a bit damp.
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Bouldering area is now dry and the gorge is almost there. When it dries its a good bet for hot days, because of a weird 3 degree drop as soon as you step in. spooky
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Has anyone got any recent updates or predictions for tomorrow? I am interested in routes up to F7b+ and problems to about V7/8.
Also, I've not been before but presume that as long as it's not seeping then it will stay dry in the rain?
Cheers, Luke.
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Judging by the mingin weather up this way I dont think the gorge will be in condition
not sure about the Bouldering?
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Don't bother everything is soaked, its beyond grim. Been down there three times this week, even battled my way up my proj on soaking wet holds (its only been dry for two days in March). As for the bouldering; Under the bridge wall is a waterfall, Robert Duvall wall is an aquarium, the main bouldering wall is more moist than Jenna Jameson on a good day at the office!
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:lol: It's wet then!
Ta. Luke.
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It amazes me to say it but it's DRY! Routes and under the bridge bouldering - LPT seeping like an infected open wound but the gorge dry, go figure? All routes right of Echoes are dry, partner did Grand Canyon and Broccoli & Ice Cream. New bolts now in the start of Bananas & Coffee.
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But for how long!!
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But for how long!!
Well I checked and the test blobs had set properly. ::)
;)
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Anyone know if it's likely to be in nick on Saturday? Looks like it might escape the worst of the imminent rain.
Ta
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heading down this eve, any one got any knowledge? cheers
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All dry this lunchtime.
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If anyone was down today or is going tomorrow, could I get a conditions report for a potential thurs trip please :kiss2:
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Dry as a bone down there yesterday.
Thought you had done everything down there Rich?
Cheers Dave
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There's 2 8as and a 8a+ that are too hard for him ;)
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Went down today and sunbathed! Roasting. Still very confused as to what you do on under pressure. Do you pull on matched on the undercuts lying upside down then use a multitude of shit wide splayed pinches going left until you get into the dyno holds of faith healer?
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pinchy undercut and finger hold and yes. Mule reckons Spinal tap is worth 8a+
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Hope you're not losing your Board Tan Rich!
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Anyone been down recently? Not local so no idea what state it will be in, but considering a trip in the next few days.
Ta.
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Not been this week but you might be ok on the roof section if there has been/continues to be a decent breeze and no rain. Think tomorrow looks pretty good weather wise IIRC. Under The Bridge area I should imagine would be a bit poo but that said it's yielded some surprisingly amazing conditions during periods of poor weather. Worth a punt if nobody gets back to you here perhaps? Bring big guns :strongbench:
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The gorge is in prime nick at the mo.
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bouldering in good nick. cool temps. perfect.
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bouldering in good nick. broccoli dry on the route front.
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gopping at the mo, will have a look on friday to see if its improved.
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very good nick at the mo
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gopping at the mo, firestarter climable.
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Has anyone been down recently?
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Anyone know if it's worth a look tomorrow?
Ta.
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I'm thinking of heading to Ruthin Escarpment tomorrow and possibly head to Pantymwyn as well. I'm sure Ruthin will be in good nick, not sure about the Mwyn though... Could be OK, it's sunny here today!
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The Mwyn was soaking today. Every hold on every problem was wet. Bailed to Ruthin Escarpment and the main link up problems were dry-ish (holds needed a bit of drying) Worth noting a trip here is worth it if Mwyn is wet!
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The Mwyn was soaking today. Every hold on every problem was wet. Bailed to Ruthin Escarpment and the main link up problems were dry-ish (holds needed a bit of drying) Worth noting a trip here is worth it if Mwyn is wet!
We wussed out and went indoors in the end, so cheers for validating our cowardice!
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The Mwyn was soaking today. Every hold on every problem was wet. Bailed to Ruthin Escarpment and the main link up problems were dry-ish (holds needed a bit of drying) Worth noting a trip here is worth it if Mwyn is wet!
We wussed out and went indoors in the end, so cheers for validating our cowardice!
I'd rather climb damp rock than go indoors on a weekend, mental...I know!
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Cave in good condition today.
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Tip Top Conditions.
UTB dry as well for the first time in a long while.
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Was there yesterday trying Robert Duvall. All the bouldering is bone dry. Routes look to be drying out but have wet streaks in a lot of places.
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Went yesterday eve. All dry, Robert Duvall is starting to seep a bit though.
All problems under the bridge and in the main cave were bone dry.
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Went yesterday, Robert Duvall area is wet and seeping. Under the bridge area is all soaking. Main cave is OK. Almost completely dry. The odd hold is wet though.
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Anyone know how the cave is holding out, has the temperature increase screwed it atall?
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was soaked with condensation/foggy stuff this morning, may be ok for tomorrow as sun did peep out and a breeze picked up....
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All dry today, including UTB area.
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Has anyone been over the weekend? Wondering on conditions for the new low start into pantys and be ruthless. Cheers!
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I went for a wander up to devil's gorge on saturday evening, although only to look at the routes really (gopping, don't bother) but i did have a quick feel of the holds on the bouldering section. Not 100% shite, but still pretty dire. Maybe improved with the good weather yesterday?
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Are either Pantymwyn or Ruthin likely to be in this weekend?
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I was wondering just the same. Saturday looks a bit showery, but might head over that way on Sunday.
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Cave was good last night, everything dry, should be OK even with the showers. UTB was just about dry, not sure if it will stay that way though.
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The dark side suggests you need to ask for permission to climb at Ruthin; is that still the case and is it normally granted?
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No I don't think so. Just make sure you park on the main road
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Anyone been in the last few days? Cheers
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Any update on conditions? Will be dry tomorrow
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Any update on conditions? Will be dry tomorrow
The gorge itself had condensed and was goping on Thursday after Wednesday's down pour. No update since then though.
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I was there today from 12 till mid afternoon. All the bouldering was dry/ fine. The routes round the corner had plenty of folk milling round too so that must also have been in condition too!
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Good nick at the moment including UTB area.
One thing not good is the levels of chalk in places though, completely caked on in some area's to a stupid extent ( particularly firestarter, embers and panty's ) and also with the seemingly now obligatory foot long tickmarks to go along with the chalk cake.
Please take care of the place, and brush up after you've finished. All the chalk doesn't help when the place condenses as it takes longer to dry ( and also just looks a right state ).
Cheers.
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Going to go bouldering there this eve if anyone's keen?
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Any chance Pantymwyn bouldering will be dry Thurs? Or Ruthin for that matter.
?
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Climbable today but a few holds needed toweling dry.
Unfortunately managed to knock off a couple of large blocks from the Be Ruthless/Pantys Down starting hole. Many apologies (but in my defence they appear to have been held on with just mud!) Doesn't affect the stand starts but I think it might make the sitters a little more tricky. Blocks just to the left of the hole under the overhang.
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They've been wobbling for a while
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All blocks fallen out now. Worked out some beta for the sit downs climbing the riht hand side of the cwve into the two finger pocket with the left. Little bit harder but not a full grade. Think it climbs a lot better though
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What are the chances of dryness on the weekend?
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Absolutely everything 100% dry today, routes, UTB wall, Duvall wall and the cave. Quite amazing for this time of year.
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Absolutely everything 100% dry today, routes, UTB wall, Duvall wall and the cave. Quite amazing for this time of year.
Cheers John, really good to know!
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Everything so dry on the lime. Orme, Panty, Gop....
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only recently heard about this place, tried to find a topo and only seen bits and pieces around. Without being to much of a pain does anyone have any beta, ie for parking, directions to the crag from parking etc as I can't seem to find any complete stuff! Thanks in advance :)
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It's in Boulder Britain
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cool thanks doylo
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Anybody know if it's dry there ATM? Cheers.
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anyone know what the conditions are like at the moment? Reckon its worth a punt tomorrow?
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I'm not sure id drive too far without a report. Been a lot of rain
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thats what I'm thinking; unsure whether I should sack tomorrow off, find somewhere with a big roof to climb or go sit beneath tourniquet at kentmere for an a few hours :-\
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thats what I'm thinking; unsure whether I should sack tomorrow off, find somewhere with a big roof to climb or go sit beneath tourniquet at kentmere for an a few hours :-\
I'd be very suprised if it was day, hammering it down here in Wrexham and has been all day/night.
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Anyone know if it's dry at the moment?
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Good today. All of the cave dry.
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How we looking? Mite it be worth a hit on tues or wed?
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Yes
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Kick ass :-*
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Was down today. Cave in good nick and UTB wall pretty good too. So long as it stays breezy should be fine early/mid week.
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All blocks fallen out now. Worked out some beta for the sit downs climbing the riht hand side of the cwve into the two finger pocket with the left. Little bit harder but not a full grade. Think it climbs a lot better though
Went down last night and couldn't figure this out.... what holds are you using/starting on?
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Myself and Stu did this on sun. After I spent ages fumbling with shit methods Stu found an easy one - pull on both hands where I guess blocks used to be, lf in big toe hook underneath, rf out right on something. Rh to pinch, lh to undercut start hold of stand, rf high and take out toe hook.
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Guess Stu found the tourist start then?
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Huh?
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Undercuts well below the main 'lip'. A nice sequence all ways from here.
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The sequence is really good now. Two positive undercuts, slap over with left to backhand guppy thing. Right toe in big notch, right hand to pinchy thing. Left heel over hand, left hand to positive pocket. Right foot lock high into hole, go again with left for big chipped pocket.you don't need to go into the starting undercut in the hole with this sequence. That sunset sit into the full traverse would be pretty meaty.
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The sequence is really good now. Two positive undercuts, slap over with left to backhand guppy thing. Right toe in big notch, right hand to pinchy thing. Left heel over hand, left hand to positive pocket. Right foot lock high into hole, go again with left for big chipped pocket.you don't need to go into the starting undercut in the hole with this sequence. That sunset sit into the full traverse would be pretty meaty.
One of the positive starting undercuts completely blew into pieces last night... Looks like it's back to starting on the holds just after the undercuts.
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Skinny Dog was here on Saturday and reports primo conditions despite the rain...
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Seepage starting to come through and even a bit of condensation on Monday night. Not completely fubar, but not particularly pleasant!
Anyone go down more recently?
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Has anyone been here recently? Thinking of going tomorrow but not sure what condition it'll be in. I seem to remember that every time I went last year it seemed to be fairly foolproof conditions-wise.
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Mint yesterday including the gorge wall
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Time for GC extension to go down then!
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:popcorn: :worms:
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Time for GC extension to go down then!
Hear hear!
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The problems on the Under the Bridge wall deserve more attention. Videod them yesterday http://youtu.be/NIk6Rt-eBVY (http://youtu.be/NIk6Rt-eBVY)
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Just to confirm, everything was indeed mint again today and Under the Bridge looks superb.
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The gorge was in the best nick I've ever seen it on Sunday. UTB wall was perfect everywhere and Doylo's additions/documentations well worth doing.
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Can I just say that the only new one I did was UTB SS . The others have all been done before
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'Addition' sorry maestro.
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Hideous conditions today. Routes are condensed/seeping, under the bridge area is actually dripping wet. The main bouldering cave was really damp and it felt really humid down there.
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The route projects survive another year.
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:shit: :shit: :shit:
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But for how many more years? (Decades...) :worms:
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Has anyone been very recently, wondering what the left hand side of the main cave is like?
Thanks :)
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Any news on the conditions? Thinking of heading up on the weekend
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Anyone know if the routes are dry? Cheers
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This is a good little problem done last year by Mark Riley.
http://youtu.be/uCxR36xifKg (http://youtu.be/uCxR36xifKg)
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Anyone know if Under the Bridge is dry?
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It's the driest problem on that wall so I expect so. Will probably condense in there when this predicted heatwave hits....
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It's the driest problem on that wall so I expect so. Will probably condense in there when this predicted heatwave hits....
Heatwave??
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For what it's worth, everything seemed dry yesterday - despite the pouring rain and howling wind.
Btw, is it possible to approach from the bottom, along the river, rather than from above?
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It's about 20 minutes walk from Loggerheads. Think you can come the other way parking near Cilcain but haven't done this. In short yes but it takes longer.
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Popped in on Friday on the way home - all routes are dry as is Under the Bridge bouldering.
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Any news?
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How's the bouldering looking? Anyone been recently?
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Should be mint.
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The routes were in very good condition yesterday (all dry). Don't know if that gives any clue as to how the bouldering is likely to be?
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Mint
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Does anyone have an idea how well the bouldering holds up here in regards to the recent weather?
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Does anyone have an idea how well the bouldering holds up here in regards to the recent weather?
I'm pretty sure it would be dry. It's been dry here for the last couple of days and seepage isn't a big issue.
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Cheers Luke!
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Main section still fenced off and access restricted. I managed a few eliminates between damp sections on the wall with Robert Duval on but that looks like it'll dry out soon if this dry spell continues. Routes and bouldering in the gorge wet.
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They're going to install a grid at the back of the cave in July. Hopefully it won't affect the climbing, it's going as far back as possible. The rangers have asked if people can not climb on the cave section until then.
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Does anyone know whether Pantymwyn or Tremeirchion are better bets today/this week?
I'm guessing the cave is still off limits. Never been to either venue before.
Thanks!
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I've not heard any reports of the Gorge being dry this year yet. The cave is blocked off AFAIK. Tremeirchion should be fine especially as it's cooled down a bit.
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Dry and fenceless
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:bounce: :clap2: :great:
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The routes were condensed out this evening and were not even worth getting on.
The bouldering was a bit damp but dry-able. The fence has gone, the new fence placed by the council to block off the cave is well back and doesn't effect any of the Ruthless/Panties sit starts.
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The routes were condensed out this evening and were not even worth getting on.
Is that kind of gop out predictable? Does it happen when the temps suddenly drop as well as when they spike? Went for the first time last weekend, impressed, but long way to go for a greasey session.
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The place is a nightmare for conditions, It is kinda predictable. The temps going up seem to have the worst effect. Annoyingly although it was windy yesterday it wasn't getting in the Gorge itself, I have yet to figure out which wind direction helps.
It's annoying enough being local so I can see why not many travel for it. The routes are amazing though and most of the routes would be classics (and polished!) if they were at somewhere like Kilnsey.
The routes on the right hand side escape most of the condensing as they're further away from the cold big cave so there's always a back up. There's a really good 7a+ (Bananas and Coffee) which always seems to be dry and some good links from it a 7b+ direct start and a 7c alternative finish which stay dry too.
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The place is a nightmare for conditions, It is kinda predictable. The temps going up seem to have the worst effect. Annoyingly although it was windy yesterday it wasn't getting in the Gorge itself, I have yet to figure out which wind direction helps.
It's annoying enough being local so I can see why not many travel for it. The routes are amazing though and most of the routes would be classics (and polished!) if they were at somewhere like Kilnsey.
The routes on the right hand side escape most of the condensing as they're further away from the cold big cave so there's always a back up. There's a really good 7a+ (Bananas and Coffee) which always seems to be dry and some good links from it a 7b+ direct start and a 7c alternative finish which stay dry too.
yeah did that one but keen for the classics on the left, the rock looks stunning. Will always keep it in mind but the conditions do seem like a peck
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To add to the bizarre conditions it's apparently in good nick again today!
I've posted this on Facebook already but just a heads up that the 2nd and 3rd bolts on Grand Canyon are in a poor state, both the bolts (not just the hangers) wobble so take care!
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To add to the bizarre conditions it's apparently in good nick again today!
I've posted this on Facebook already but just a heads up that the 2nd and 3rd bolts on Grand Canyon are in a poor state, both the bolts (not just the hangers) wobble so take care!
yep saw some strange sling set up last week
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To add to the bizarre conditions it's apparently in good nick again today!
I've posted this on Facebook already but just a heads up that the 2nd and 3rd bolts on Grand Canyon are in a poor state, both the bolts (not just the hangers) wobble so take care!
You're not supposed to fall on them! ::)
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Anyone been lately? Any idea how the main bouldering area is holding up?
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Any knowledge on what the connies might be like this weekend? Routes and bouldering?
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O-Dog McTreebeard reported decent connies yesterday. Lot of rain about today and tomorrow though?
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I was there last night and everything was dry, just the smallest of seepage on the odd hold but nothing major. Rain forecast today and tomorrow will probably bring some seepage in a few days but it's the driest it's been there in awhile. Under the Bridge area has dried out too. Possibly heading down on Sunday morning.
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Nice one, cheers. Will bear that in mind.
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All the bouldering is dry at the moment.
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Ignore my previous post, I went last night and as a result of the down pour on Wednesday the whole place is seeping like crazy.
Everything by Firestarter was dry and not really that effected.
Be Ruthless side was in terrible condition (think drying most of the holds between goes).
Under the Bridge area is now completely wet again.
Funny how much can change in just a day... dry weather yesterday and today should mean it'll probably have recovered a lot by Sat/Sun.
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Under the Bridge area is now completely wet again.
I meant to ask this at the time, but I completely forgot. A few months ago I was in the area and went down to Pantymwyn as I hadn't been there for ages.
It looked like there was some work going on by Under the Bridge as the ground had been dug up and there were loads of sandbags around.
Any idea what that was all about?
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Any idea what that was all about?
Yeah, The bottom of the routes now have a walkway of paving slabs, doesn't effect the routes in anyway other than you will no longer have to stand in a foot of mud when belaying. I presume it's been put in to allow people to walk up to the big cave as it's quite touristy there in the summer.
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Everything is dry, including routes
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Long shot I know, but we're currently sat in a cafe in Betws Y Coed searching for somewhere to climb. Anyone with any idea how Panty is holding up? And if it's worth walking in through this pissing rain?
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It isn't raining here in Deeside (close to the gorge). I'd guess the routes will be dry as they're overhanging and once they dry out after winter seepage it takes a lot of rain to get them wet again .. Should be dry stuff on the Orme too, wasn't raining on the coast when I left this morning..
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Cheers. All the bouldering seemed dry and in pretty good condition.
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Always worth heading to the (west) coast if the weathers crap in Snowdonia.. Capel Curig gets 3m or rain a year, Aberdaron 0.874...
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How badly did it rain over night? Think it'll be a write off today ?
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Gorge is mint at the mo.
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Latest reports? Seepage looking ok for the weekend? How dry does it stay in showery weather?
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Not too bad in showery weather.
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The bouldering round by Firestarter was perfect. The main gorge had some damp spots but overall looked pretty decent.
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All dry and in good condition yesterday
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Anyone been here recently, thinking of going on Sunday...
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Hows it looking currently? Thinking of heading over tomorrow
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Any recent reports? Interested in main cave area tomorrow. Is it prone to seepage?
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Any reports of seepage yet (it was still holding out early last week)?
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Very condensed and dripping wet Saturday.
Maybe better today, Yetix was asking the same question last night.
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Anyone visited recently? Any condition reports welcome.
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Bump. Anyone been recently? I’m wondering if devils gorge is an option for the weekend…
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I'll check with my buddy Mark Riley in Cilcain.
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Boulders in good nick. Routes still very seepy at the bottom.
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Yep. Mark said "I’d be surprised if routes were dry already" , he hasn't been up yet.
It was horribly wet up here in the Clwyd valley only 3 weeks ago.
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Cheers all. It was worth asking I suppose.
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Bananas and Coffee area fully dry on Fri evening and the rest was getting there, given the recent dry weather I wouldn't write it off.
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Wow, I was there Thursday evening and it looked a fair way off. The pockets will still be wet and muddy for a few weeks or so after all the face seepage dries back so also depends on your appetite for that.