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1
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by thunderbeest on Today at 06:08:14 pm »
I also suppose it might be easier to figure out who's put bolts in the wall than to figure who brushes the boulder, as there's been so many crowds in the last 30 year. Or even to be sure that it was brushed at all. A lot of older groups had the attitude to not tell about ascents either..
2
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by Ru on Today at 05:15:09 pm »
I’m pretty sure Liam has spent more time developing that massive roof (see weeks) in hawkcliffe than most developers would do bolting 5 20m sport routes and yet he has been more than happy to give it away for others to do.

It's slightly different though, developing a bloc from which you do some, but not all, the first ascents (I assume - apologies to Liam if not) and developing a sport route that someone else does. I also think you are underestimating the time (and expense) it would take to develop 5 20m sport routes in many places in the UK. Personally I've cleaned up a few blocks (3 days in a boiler suit scrubbing the lower half of Sheep Buttress springs to mind) that I never considered having any closed projects on, but I would be narked if I equipped, glued, and cleaned a sport route in the Peak that someone nicked.

I do think context is very relevant though. Whacking a few bolts in a last great problem type route on perfect rock then bagsying it for several years is very different to cleaning and fixing up some slightly chossy, overgrown and ignored limestone route. Also bear in mind the degree of care some people take to make the routes good. KC in particular has converted some previously grim bits of rock into gems.

Then there's the practical aspect - many (most?) sport routes in the UK would probably not have been equipped if there was a real risk that the equipper wouldn't get to do the FA.
3
Anyone know if Trowbarrow or Warton are dry at the moment? (I don't mean literally now, I mean if they've been seepy recently)

For my sins I was at trowbarrow today! It was a little bit seepy first thing, but soon dried. It’ll be fine this weekend.
4
conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) / Re: Woodwell Conditions
« Last post by jeh on Today at 04:09:19 pm »
I have climbed at Trowbarrow a few times within the last few weeks, and have friends that have climbed at Warton successfully. Both dry quick with a breeze, but can seep again quickly if its rained
5
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by stone on Today at 03:57:05 pm »
But seriously, how hard is it to just text someone and ask about a line?  How lazy are you that you will whine about a 'closed' project yet won't pick up the phone let alone the drill, hammer , brushes etc.
Seriously you can GTFO with that attitude.  I've had this conversation in person many times and I just tell the wads to bolt their own projects, tell them a half dozen options, then mention how being a repeater of routes add nothing to the community.
There is zero chance of me being a route stealer myself. I'm about as far from being a wad as is conceivable, and am comically slow at working through the plethora of suitable existing routes close to where I live. As such, I thought I was just the person to bring up the subject on behalf of the wider community because many people aren't in that circumstance.

In the UK, there have been a few cases where prime routes have been kept closed for decades by developers who weren't able to climb them. People who asked if they could be opened were told no. The developers hoped to improve their climbing ability and so in the future be able to climb them. That's the behaviour I was questioning.
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chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by Dingdong on Today at 03:15:42 pm »
I’m pretty sure Liam has spent more time developing that massive roof (see weeks) in hawkcliffe than most developers would do bolting 5 20m sport routes and yet he has been more than happy to give it away for others to do.
7
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by Liamhutch89 on Today at 03:04:40 pm »
Have you bolted many lines Liam?

No, but if you're using that as a measure of time, work and expense put into developing rock then it's a poor one, so I fail to see the relevance.
8
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by dunnyg on Today at 02:51:27 pm »
Have you bolted many lines Liam?
9
conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) / Re: Woodwell Conditions
« Last post by abarro81 on Today at 02:31:27 pm »
Anyone know if Trowbarrow or Warton are dry at the moment? (I don't mean literally now, I mean if they've been seepy recently)
10
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by Liamhutch89 on Today at 02:14:00 pm »
Seriously you can GTFO with that attitude.  I've had this conversation in person many times and I just tell the wads to bolt their own projects, tell them a half dozen options, then mention how being a repeater of routes add nothing to the community.

Bloody hell.

Wads are welcome on the projects that I've opened and have been trying. I'd be psyched to see them done!
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