UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: fried on September 07, 2014, 06:02:35 pm
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STG - 10 pull-ups
Mon - Off work, go to find a reason to love Bas Cuvier. Go to play around on some of the stuff at Cuvier est/ bellevue/ Rempart depending on which topo you use, specifiacally the the bay with Roxanne in it. Ran up a couple of the easier lines with surprising ease (which turned out later to be because I'd read the topo wrong), spend a good while trying Marianne but a spot would have been nice. Fail to get off the ground on Roxanne. Have a look at scarface, but I'd certainly like a spot on it, fantastic line.
Wander back feeling good and get shut down on the same old polished crap, play around on some red problems, including the back arete on the Marie-Rose boulder, a bit too hot still. Not a bad day for Cuvier.
Tuesday- Rest
Wednesday - Suprise myself by doing 3x5 pull-ups, hence the 10 pull-up goal. Some planks.
Thursday - Indoor, disaster strikes after 20mins when I twang my finger, reduced to 1-handed slabs and traverses which gets old quick.
Friday - Nowt
Saturday - Nothing
Sunday - Finger still a bit sore, but the weather is dry, and I'd already decided to take the train out to Rocher Canon (free for me!) to save some petrol money.
Warm up on some yellows, fine. Move on to some blues, but the finger isn't having it, I try to find problems that don't antagonise it too much. Do part of the orange circuit. Spend a long time fruitlessly slapping a sloper on the light blue circuit. Finger now sore, so I go home. Very humid/ warm.
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STG - Be prepared for some fun inn Font this weekend. :great:
MO:
- Stretching
- Strength (bodyweight-weight): Upping my max in squats
- Tai Chi
TU:
- Same as monday
WE:
- PO(boulder) in the gym: After warm-up, 10 probs up to 6b
- Some Tai Chi
TH:
- Some Tai Chi
- Some easy buildering
- Stretching
- Strength (bodyweight/weight)
FR:
- Stretching
- Strength(bodyweight/weight)
SA:
- L'Elephant: Some problems from the orange circuit as warm-up. Then a big part of the blue circuit.
SU:
- Buthiers Canard: Fun Highballing on blue problems.
All in all a superb weekend, even if I'm still recovering from surgery! :)
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SU:
- Buthiers Canard: Fun Highballing on blue problems.
Hope you started with a coffee and finished with a beer in the bar, one of the true pleasures of Font.
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STG (Autumn): 7a redpoint: Edelbitter, Konstein.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
M: Wall, Thalkirchen. Half an hour moderate bouldering to warm up, then 12 sets Beastmaker.
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Easing back into enjoying Pump for Pump's Sake. 5c 5c 6a+ 6a 6b 5b 6b.
T:
F: Half an hour moderate bouldering to warm up, then 12 sets Beastmaker. Really noticing the pros and cons of using the fingerboard at the wall today: was a humid evening and I was horribly greasing off holds that I normally find ok (e.g. 35 slopers): I suspect a nice clean private board would be better. Otoh light bouldering is both much more fun and probably safer than the available warm-up options at home.
S: Opening day bouldering comp, Boulderwelt München II. Hadn't planned to go to this, and thought it probably wasn't such a great idea training-wise the day after a fingerboard session, but a change of family plans meant I was unexpectedly free for a few hours, and I couldn't/didn't resist the temptation. Was ok: the comp format was "as many as you can out of a hundred", and doing dozens of easy blocs turns out to be a really enjoyable form of active rest.
S: Knee physio exercises / mobility / yoga
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STG - Climb limestone until its cold enough for grit, tick as many classics as possible and get fingers stronger at the same time.
MTG - 8A on grit would be nice this winter, only climbed 7Bs up to now but that was on day trips. Now living in the motherland (Sheffield).
LTG - Plod along ticking all the classics but steadily improve too. No injuries, improve diet and do more antagonistic stuff on rest days (where I mainly just feel like watching tv all night)
Mon - Rest
Tues - Tor after work. Did Weedkiller Traverse (with weird no heel beta) and A little extra direct.
Weds - Rest
Thurs - Felt so tired I could barely form coherent sentences, so left work at 4:30pm. Got in and instantly fell asleep for 2.5 hours. Got up, went to the works and had planned to do a bunch of easy stuff but met Seb on the woody and he convinced me his problem was OK and that I'd get on better than last week. After accepting that I currently have to use the bigger foot holds I managed to successfully get to the top of the board, leading with alternate hands a few times.
Fri- Rest (spent evening cooking a meal and listening to music)
Sat - Rest (boring shopping stuff)
Sun - Tor after having only 7 hours sleep (not a lot for me). Didn't feel great during the warm-up. Tried Rattle and Hump start for most of the session. After Sasquatch made me paranoid last week I didn't watch any videos for beta and therefore it took me quite a while to get a good sequence even though it should had been obvious. Too tired to do it in the end but will try later in the week. Went to the end of the crag to warm down on Saline drip start. Was a bit confused as to where it started but after pulling on and stepping off a couple of times I went to the top first time I actually committed to a sequence. It felt far too easy, so I went as far left towards the tree as I could and did it from different holds and still got to the top first go. Think this is a VERY soft 7A (being tall probably helps). I've tried 6Bs on the lime that felt harder! Turned a washout session into an average one at least.
More successful than last week, three low 7's ticked (one twice) on peak lime and another will surely fall next session. I was going to start having a crack at the harder stuff but as I've not been on the fingery stuff for a while, I've made the decision to ease myself in. Also got to the top of the woody at the works which I didn't see happening last week but that was using the poor wooden footholds initially.
Struggled a bit this week with tiredness. I've just started working 40 hours/week (well 3 weeks ago now) after having a year of travelling and a year of part-time prior to that and it's really taking it's toll. No more lie-ins and being 100% rested for climbing. Weird that I don't seem to be sleeping well the night before my weekend day of climbing and I can't figure out if it's nervousness or excitement but it's certainly having a negative effect on my performance. Will have to address this one if possible. Hopefully this great weather continues and I can get out after work some more during the week.
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@fried:
We stayed at Hotel Napoleon (more or less to get fat in that lovely restaurant they have with their 8 stage menu ...),
but started there sunday morning with English breakfast and strong coffee.
At noon, we had a modest 3 stage meal at a lovely restaurant in the small village a bit further up the road as the bar Canard was closed.
Since I don't drink any alcochol anymore I consumed a gallon of sparkling water.
All in all it's September lardathon for me ... ;)
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M: Trying to shake off cold
Tu: Work - conference - long day -
W: Went to Helsby... felt shit and de-motivated, but first visit in a couple of months. My Tor training seems to have paid off as I powered through a few of the tougher problems (my use of the term powered through is relative..). Made a short film of Artful Dodging - a great traverse that has a couple of fantastic (and really hard) cross through moves at the start - then ends up a V4 (Oliver)... the filmed ascent was a reet struggle - some crimp shake going on :)
http://vimeo.com/105142635
https://vimeo.com/105142635
Th: Work
Fri: Helsby again - had the option of going to the peak but couldnt face the A6... An even better session... flew through some problems - did a footless traverse eliminate bollocks thing for first time and got all the moves on the reverse of Artful Dodging (harder - but less fun moves)
Sa: Friends 40th/Uni reunion in Leeds. Semi Otley run starting with a limo to Woodies - and a meal half way. Trolleyed.
Su: Hungover - amazingly not sick... kinda thought of getting out in the afternoon but blobbed and watched the GP then went for some cake with MrsTT...
A good week in some ways - but fighting against the tide of everything else in life this week... Lardathon has taken a bit of a beating - with all the social/work things this week I just tallied up that I've eaten out 8 times this week... I try really hard to eat healthy but its tough every time...
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11.6-8
M.
T.Early AM Sub par times on crimps so did more of them. Got it together a bit better on the drags despite sore tips
W.
T. Eve Better FB session. Surprised how long it took to get fully recruited for drags after I'd finished the crimp hangs. Did a couple of core front lever type exercises
F.
S.AM Rainy. Tor. Just Ted and Char on Mecca Extn when I got there. Greasy. Close to getting thru to kneebar rest about four times. Felt stronger. Tough on the skin in the conditions
S PM Jog near Higgar to clear head
Lot of work on this week so probably will just train. Decided to give Malham a miss till next year so just Kalymnos at end of October to aim for.
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Weather is finally getting better after another week of shitty rain.
Only climbed on Wed due to this and work.
V1, V4, failed on the hardest V4 in the world that I can't repeat anymore, fell off the last move of a V6 3 times in a row, failed on V7 (haven't been able to stick the big crux bump to a sharp hold since about a month ago). Have only been climbing once a week lately so I'm not *too* annoyed with this.
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84.7Kg
M -
T - School p.m. Warm ups, then some AnPow on the 50 degree. Then finally did the 40-move '7c' circuit.
W - Foundry lunch AeroCap. Mainly on the new section of the main wall.
T -
F - School lunch. AnPow, then AeroPow (4 x first 28 moves of 7c with 2 mins rest (1 min 5 secs climbing time). 10 mins rest and 4 more reps. Pumped. Will try to reduce rest period on this exercise, intensity probably a bit too much.
S -
S - Cratcliffe en famille. Razor Roof, then RZA Roof (not done this before - really good), Jerry's trav and slapped the dish on T Crack a few times. Great to be on the grit.
Off to Spain in less than 4 weeks, so trying to get the last part of training right (and not get injured). Will probably still mix in 1 session of AeroCap for the next 2 wks as fitness is still my issue. Going to hammer the AeroPow circuits for 2 wks then taper and mostly just boulder.
Friday is the anniversary of breaking my heel bone in Northumberland. Definitely feel like all the training I have done since then is paying off and pysched for 10 whole days of climbing in Rodellar!
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Sept Goals
Book October Spain Trip
Stick to training plan
RP Tennessee
More trad - more E3-5
Mon - rest
Tue - Small Campus session + Ancap and locks.
Wed - rest
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Rhoscolyn - did the HVS as a warm up, partner wasnt psyched to try their route so i got straight on warpath. Bad idea, flash pumped and fell halfway up the headwall. Terminal pump so dogged to top and left it at that.
Sun - Pass, did wind and ss special. Lots of time wasted so not much done.
Slightly frustrating weekend, lots of faffing not much climbing. Ok effort on warpath considering not trad climbing or training any endurance for the last 6 weeks. Stuck to training plan minus fingerboard, need to stop missing this as finger strength is such an obvious weakness! Going to do it as first session this week to make sure i dont miss it.
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Still no climbing - not sure if this is as much mental as questioning whether my finger has healed and not wanting to try it again for fear of being disappointed. Got some surf in, which was good.
Mon: Hilly 12.5km run around the neighbourhood
Tues: Surf - mellow but fun day learning to cross-step on the longboard in little waves. Slowly getting the hang of it.
Wed: Morning 7.5km run followed by kettlebells in the evening. Pretty solid but quick session.
Thurs: Surf - small, bumpy and not great, but still good to get out.
Fri: 9km run around the neighbourhood - mainly to rest a slightly stiff / sore shoulder.
Sat: Surf - small and crowded but not too bad, followed by kettlebells in the afternoon. Then a huge dinner at, in my opinion, Cape Town's best restaurant with lots of wine.
Sun: Hangover. Late morning super fun surf in really good waves, followed by a 9km run in the afternoon.
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A week of trying to protect the shoulder.
Mon - Needed rest day.
Tue - Saw physio for two hours. Strain to the lat dorsal, one hour on the legs - ouch ouch ouch. Running in the Alps is obviously tough on them then. Asked about the bruising from the flash pump I get in the left arm and she mentioned a few things, non of what seem to fit on further reading but warming up properly at the crag is a must from now on.
Wed - Pinnacle. Actually just top-roped easy stuff up to 6a+, 3 routes at a time. Stopped when the shoulder complained.
Thu - High Tor. Debauchery second. First pitch was great, the second had me off when I was avoiding pulling with the left arm... still not competent using monos it would seem! Terric climb for E1. Watched some lad onsight E5 and then climbed up to the cave to belay my mate on some 7b+. Usually he'd be thinking onsight but he got nowhere fast. "Sandbag" was his conclusion. FA by Simon Lee it would seem...
Fri - Bamford. Seconded Gargoyle Flake for a warm up, then got on a HVS 5b lead. So greasy and I remembered why I hate grit when it's warm. Got scared of the sliding hand on the crux and sat. Miffed at myself, went for it and got it anyway :wall: Moved down to Salmon Slab. Jordon used a top rope on the E6, I led a VS 5a. Oh, had a beer for lunch and went soloing the easy stuff that's there, which is quite pleasant as there's far less polish than there is at Stanage. Then seconded a Eng 5c thing cleanly before we left. Quite chuffed with that, as it felt pretty easy. Roll on the winter...
Sat - Climbing Station. Entered the fun category in the comp. Think I flashed to 12/13 but then the shoulder was unhappy and I was with my physio - just messed around after that. I really like the bouldering here, good setting at my sort grades and the hard problems on the slabs don't tend to have V0 holds in the way.
Sun - Utterly trashed from my birthday the night before. Rolled in around 4pm, covered in make-up, having worn a few wigs but managing to avoid wearing a 1960s Star Trek crew dress. I guess going to a gay engagement party attended by cyber goths, transvestites, transexuals and being rather mullered at the after party was always going to be interesting. The world I was born into would have frowned but thankfully things have changed greatly in the last 49 years. I think I'll do something rather different for my 50th however!
Pleased to have climbed as much as I did, even if it meant not putting 100% in. Gonna take a few days off now and let the shoulder heal properly, now that the holiday is finally over.
If it was Shark who put that 7b+ up at High Tor :clap2: It'll do Jordon some good to be challenged from time to time.
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STG- Normal middle fingers. Still feeling good.
2014 goals- 2014 E-points, back to 7th grade in sport and bouldering.
LTG- 8a sport.
M- Rest.
T- Rest.
W- Pullups/ levers. Tentatively used the flat edges on my Beastmaker for some with no ill-effects. ;D
T- Black Rocks. More climbers than non-climbers there! :dance1: First time I've seen an evening like this in coming up to four months of religious attendance. Sadly it was also the worst conditions I've known there in that time too- horribly humid with residual dampness. Split my time between litter-picking (filled three black bin bags :ang: ) and chatting to a team of cool Austrians who I sandbagged onto Birch Tree Wall Direct. One of them did it (predictably the tallest) but only after the light had gone past what I can film in.
F- Rest.
S- Plan was to go to High Tor and do Debauchery but psyche collapsed due to horrible-looking conditions. On the computer editing my film all day instead. :geek:
S- Curbar after fliming some interviews at BR. Lovely weather but became too hot shortly after we'd got there and unbearably midgy shortly after it stated cooling down. Got on Maupassant in the gap between, cruised up to the top layback but couldn't commit. I could reverse it to the floor no problem though. Fuck's sake.
I'm in a bit of an odd place with my climbing at the moment, largely due to working so much on my film. I won't be going abroad this Autumn as I've spent all my money on camera stuff :boohoo: I'm always going to the same crag and not doing much climbing there and I'm devoting most of my evenings at home to working on the film rather than training. I also get a thing where if I have good footage in the bag for the day I feel satisfied and not really bothered about pushing myself to try hard climbing either.
Most of a year of climbing easy stuff due to my fingers also means I've become accustomed to not trying hard or committing to anything that feels doubtful. Logically I know that I'm still easily strong enough to physically climb at or beyond the level of the easytrad I'm attempting and that my fingers are nearly recovered but there's more too it than that of course.
Having said all this though, my priority 'til spring is still going to be my film. I love working on it and I'm really psyched for it. I've thought about quitting Power Club 'til then a few times recently but I think I'll keep on posting as it makes me think of my performance (or lack of it) on a weekly basis. I wouldn't want to deprive the world of navel-gazing soliloquies like this either. ;)
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If it was Shark who put that 7b+ up at High Tor :clap2: It'll do Jordon some good to be challenged from time to time.
Its had a few repeats and no one has suggested an upgrade. Hope nothing crucial has come off the crux starting moves. I did glue a key hold that was suspect at the time. Tell him there was only a single small RP (Chouinard 1) in the top groove when I did a trad version originally.
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I've thought about quitting Power Club 'til then a few times recently but I think I'll keep on posting as it makes me think of my performance (or lack of it) on a weekly basis. I wouldn't want to deprive the world of navel-gazing soliloquies like this either. ;)
I'm pretty much in the same boat if its any consolation
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I've thought about quitting Power Club 'til then a few times recently but I think I'll keep on posting as it makes me think of my performance (or lack of it) on a weekly basis. I wouldn't want to deprive the world of navel-gazing soliloquies like this either. ;)
I'm pretty much in the same boat if its any consolation
Get yourself a coach FFS!
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climbed up to the cave to belay my mate on some 7b+. Usually he'd be thinking onsight but he got nowhere fast. "Sandbag" was his conclusion. FA by Simon Lee it would seem...
Assuming you're talking about pump out the squealies, I had a similar experience a couple of years ago. Maybe something has come off?
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Assuming you're talking about pump out the squealies, I had a similar experience a couple of years ago. Maybe something has come off?
Its had a few repeats and no one has suggested an upgrade. Hope nothing crucial has come off the crux starting moves. I did glue a key hold that was suspect at the time. Tell him there was only a single small RP (Chouinard 1) in the top groove when I did a trad version originally.
Just spoke to him and the glued on hold is still there. He's been working something in the 8s at Rubicon lately and felt this was way harder.
He found the top fairly easy, it was just the bottom crux that bamboozled him a bit. Fair play on a trad lead of that Shark!
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Assuming you're talking about pump out the squealies, I had a similar experience a couple of years ago. Maybe something has come off?
Its had a few repeats and no one has suggested an upgrade. Hope nothing crucial has come off the crux starting moves. I did glue a key hold that was suspect at the time. Tell him there was only a single small RP (Chouinard 1) in the top groove when I did a trad version originally.
Just spoke to him and the glued on hold is still there. He's been working something in the 8s at Rubicon lately and felt this was way harder.
He found the top fairly easy, it was just the bottom crux that bamboozled him a bit. Fair play on a trad lead of that Shark!
The trad line started to the left and used a couple of points of aid which I was slagged for so I did the more direct line as a sport route. I remember it being frustrating to work out and powerful but cant remember how I did it. Nice to know its getting some attention.
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I did that yonks ago. Seemed bouldery but right at 7b+ at the time. Vague recollection of getting a heel up on a big glued hold and pulling on a thin undercut.
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I'm not a coach but I reckon an onsight attempt at one of the harder routes at Black Rocks (maybe T_B's "Devil in the Details"- has much better gear than an RP1) would be
great in my film just what your psyche needs. [/quote]
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I'm not a coach but I reckon an onsight attempt at one of the harder routes at Black Rocks (maybe T_B's "Devil in the Details"- has much better gear than an RP1) would be great in my film just what your psyche needs.
Black Rocks, with exception of Fat Man's Chimney, epitomises all that is awful about gritstone
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STG - 5 local FA's 7C+ and harder (3 done, next two are MTG's? )
MTG - Local 8B boulders (3 days on it, all the moves go, now to link), and 8A+(2 day this year, need perfect conditions)
LTG - Mandala in November
Weight - 166lbs
M- Nothing - Exhausted from previous days
T- Short stretching and active recovery
W- FB - MAW, Levers, Abs, Crap session overall. Still wasted from the weekend I think....
Th- Rest
F- FB - MAW, super low motivation, but ended up with a pretty good session, Levers, Abs.
S- Soccer Game, stayed up a bit late drinking with a friend
Su- - Soccer game, then headed outside. Felt more than a bit tired, but went anyway. Warmed up, low energy, then to project. felt really hard. Had a mate remind me that it should feel hard, it's could be 8B. That made me try a bit harder, and managed to stick the crux move for the first time, and it felt pretty solid. Now to link that move into a 7C+/8A sequence. Played on a new line while my mate had a go at a project. It may go, but the last thing I need is another new project.
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with exception of Fat Man's Chimney
It really does have something for everyone. ;) Don't forget you can see High Tor from the top too.
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Fri: attempted a not-so-moderate trad thing with AndyR, who provided me with the world's worst beta:
How else am I going to level the playing field?
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Mon. Board 15 problems to warm up, then 6 problems 4 times.
Tue. Bike 63.66 miles 3 hrs 26 mins 18.46 mph.
We'd. Bike 87.42 miles 5 hrs 17.47 mph.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board. Just repeating old problems climbed too fast and ran out of power.
Sun. Bike 92.95 miles 5hrs 21 mins 17.33 mph.
Foot feeling a bit better some days but on others it's as bad as ever. Now referred to Rheumatologist.
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Fri: attempted a not-so-moderate trad thing with AndyR, who provided me with the world's worst beta:
How else am I going to level the playing field?
How is it trad if the bolts are close enough together to z-clip?