UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: AMorris on August 14, 2014, 06:32:26 pm
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I have recently purchased a weighted vest for use on the beastmaker, this got me thinking:
Is it better when training at a wall to slap on the vest and get on problems which you can do in a try or two unweighted or just leave the vest at home and get on something you find hard anyway. Which would lead to the greatest overall strength/performance gain?
I am thinking more of steep powerful problems where added weight increases difficulty of single moves rather than technical problems where it may lead to a change of sequence.
Apologies if this topic has been covered before.
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My thinking has always been that adding weight doing hard dynamic movement like bouldering is a recipe for injury. I like added weight for controlled FB, but not more than 5-10 lbs for campus and none when bouldering.
That said, I do like it for foot on campusing as a way to train on bigger holds with more weight on your hands while still maxing out your pump.
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My thinking has always been that adding weight doing hard dynamic movement like bouldering is a recipe for injury. I like added weight for controlled FB, but not more than 5-10 lbs for campus and none when bouldering.
That said, I do like it for foot on campusing as a way to train on bigger holds with more weight on your hands while still maxing out your pump.
yeah that was my thinking before I got it, I am not going to be using it for anything outrageously dynamic to avoid shock loading my tendons. I always prefer static anyway, my general idea is to add weight and be as static and controlled as possible on a board and train power on a campus board with less added weight.
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Training for bouldering or routes? If bouldering, don't "train" static movement. Heck, don't train static unless you're aiming for hard scary trad where you need 100% control....
I am thinking more of steep powerful problems where added weight increases difficulty of single moves rather than technical problems where it may lead to a change of sequence.
I always prefer static anyway, my general idea is to add weight and be as static and controlled as possible on a board and train power on a campus board with less added weight.
These two posts seem to be a bit at odds with each other.
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Training for bouldering or routes? If bouldering, don't "train" static movement. Heck, don't train static unless you're aiming for hard scary trad where you need 100%
These two posts seem to be a bit at odds with each other.
Yes I see what you mean there! I suppose what I mean is if I can static a move I will, I prefer to avoid a big dynamic movement if I can help it in favour of being controlled and static and maintaining tension. I don't necessarily 'train' for it as much as this is just the style I tend to climb in.
This is why I posted though, to get tips! Would you suggest training power with added weight to be more beneficial?
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This is why I posted though, to get tips! Would you suggest training power with added weight to be more beneficial?
No. For training power, my preference is to do training that emphasizes recruitment, both in speed of movement and contact strength. For either of these purposes, added weight isn't generally going to improve the training. Campusing is good for this, as is steep dynamic board climbing.
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This is why I posted though, to get tips! Would you suggest training power with added weight to be more beneficial?
No. For training power, my preference is to do training that emphasizes recruitment, both in speed of movement and contact strength. For either of these purposes, added weight isn't generally going to improve the training. Campusing is good for this, as is steep dynamic board climbing.
Yeah okay, pretty much what im doing already then. I do most of my training on my finger board anyway. I guess I will just have to leave my vest at home when I go down the wall
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Rereading this, I should also clarify - There's a HUGE difference between static and controlled. I'm an advocate of controlled dynamic climbing for most bouldering and sport climbing. The only places I use static climbing are tricky pockets, cracks, and slabs, which are more frequently the terrain of trad climbing (oh yeah, and ice climbing).
Learn to generate momentum from your core/legs and deadpoint almost every move and they will almost all be easier.
That said, if you can get your hands on ankle weights, I think a really educational workout is to pick a problem on a reasonably steep wall (20-40degrees) and climb it once with out weight, once with 10 lbs around your midsection, once with 5 lbs on each wrist, and once with 5 lbs on each ankle. It really makes weight distribution and movement stand out. Do that for 4-5 different style problems, and you can really learn alot about how you move.
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If you want to use a weight belt for working static strength you could use it whilst holding positions e..g. Hold a deep rock over for 10s. That way it's less dangerous for your fingers and won't fuck your movement by changing centre of gravity. I've done this a bit sometimes. Careful on elbows and shoulders though. (P.s. I'm a route climber and like on sighting so static work prob less relevant I'd you're a boulderer)
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Okay guys I have some information to work with now, thanks for the help!
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Stating the bleeding obvious but... if you do use a weight vest then make sure all your landings are slow and in control. Hard landings with extra weights is a recipe for ruptured disks.
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Stating the bleeding obvious but... if you do use a weight vest then make sure all your landings are slow and in control. Hard landings with extra weights is a recipe for ruptured disks.
or fucked up ankles in my case.
One other thing I'd suggest is to use a weight vest for 4x4's as this gives a really good amount of climbing that shouldn't be to likely to injure yourself.
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In my opinion added weight while bouldering is best used on relatively small movements between small but not too crimpy holds on steep board whit small footholds.Made me stronger on steep terrain..mostly fingers adapted to "overshoot" I would say. Big moves and added weight always seemed odd anyway .
Weight vest..good thing for muscle up progression :strongbench: