UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Three Nine on August 07, 2014, 01:30:41 pm
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http://powerfingers.co.uk/products/climbing (http://powerfingers.co.uk/products/climbing)
so what do people think?
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Seems very pricey for something that is just as easily achieved by wrapping a length of Theraband over the back of your fingers and doing the same exercise.
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I'm going to be bringing this new and exciting technology to the market in the coming year.
(http://i.imgur.com/dfYHO5Q.jpg)
If you would be interested in helping me crowd fund the new product, I'll be accepting donations to my bank account.
PM for details.
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So is this to train finger antagonistics? Not sure I've ever heard of anyone struggling with muscular imbalances in hands?
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I wonder whether Be Fuller markets any dietry products
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I've got something similar (in one of those red metoleous balls) and its pretty good.. but of a pain to use though..
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Is this:
a) a well meaning but badly thought out idea?
or
b) just a cynical attempt to make money?
The testimonials on the website made me laugh.
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I think they're a decent idea - and when I've used something similar it certainly works something in my hand/wrist/arm...
But sorry, £20-25 for a set seems bonkers...
Unless they were infused with platinum fibre flakes channelling the outer resonance proton flow from the medium twitch tendon fibroids to assist recovery. Of course.
edit: I believe they were originally developed for musicians.. to help with strain from holding strings down etc..
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Lagerstarfish trains his finger antagonists by flicking cars across the work car park
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But sorry, £20-25 for a set seems bonkers...
Unless they were infused with platinum fibre flakes channelling the outer resonance proton flow from the medium twitch tendon fibroids to assist recovery. Of course.
I agree that working antagonists is a good idea but my objection to this product is that as you say they are very expensive for what they are and are probably not the best way to address the problem.
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Lagerstarfish trains his finger antagonists by flicking cars across the work car park
I know if makes you feel better about yourself.
But, YOU ARE NOT THE HULK.
Sorry to burst the bubble. Someone had to.
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Lagerstarfish pities The Hulk for being small and weak. This will not stop him being kind to The Hulk
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Are you the non-incredible sulk then? ;)
This looks like a better product... called power finger...
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcR2RXEN7cEGZ_x8GStUNsGO2IkOFg6UdTMdSOKAHWjB6sqwVs-7q1oiyr-qPQOWaWYNyyrBap5W&usqp=CAY)
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ooooo and a bit of frisbee will also work the extensor muscles!
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I find the name of the product particularly annoying, to the point of unfair advertisement.
Powerfingers my ass.
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Powerfingers my ass.
ha!
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I'm more interested in the principle of training your finger extensors rather than the product itself?
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This guy's up to some ninja shit and he advocates working the extensors: http://www.alkavadlo.com/2010/11/24/grip-training-and-antagonistic-balance/ (http://www.alkavadlo.com/2010/11/24/grip-training-and-antagonistic-balance/)
(so it must be true etc.)
My FDP tendon's fucked. I'm going to try working extensors to see if it helps the rehab.
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My physio gave me a bunch of extensor stuff to do (with a fancy elastic band though) for my wrist rehab a couple of years ago. Nothing to compare to so can't really comment on how much diference it made.
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I used to do these religiously with a rice bucket and later on with the metolius gripmaster ball, but then I wrote to Dr. J in Rock and Ice and he said it was rubbish/unproven.
stopped doing them and haven't had any problems yet .. knock on wood.
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knock on wood.
Beware knuckle damage.
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So is this to train finger antagonistics? Not sure I've ever heard of anyone struggling with muscular imbalances in hands?
I sometimes alternate between my right and my left :wank: (also makes me feel like I'm having an affair)
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I'm more interested in the principle of training your finger extensors rather than the product itself?
Seems pretty obvious given the time we all spend using/abusing our forearm flexors , that you'd also want to keep the antagonists in shape. Same reason for doing press ups and keeping your shoulders in good nick innit.
Personally I think these things look pretty useful and handy to have in your climbing pack.
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I don't think any one would disagree that training antagonists is a good thing to do.
I suppose I see it as ill conceived because your finger extensors are fairly small and weak part of the common extensor insertion compared to the relative power of your finger flexors and compared to the extensors of the wrist, so attempting to balance two muscle groups by training a relatively minor component of one with an over priced rubber band seems a bit stupid.
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I thought antagonistics were a good idea for your torso and shoulders due to the shoulders being such mobile joints, and the big muscles involved being so prone to overdevelopment.
Surely relatively speaking your fingers are much more stable, and the muscles a lot smaller, making any antagonistic stuff virtually redundant (apart from maybe in rehab)?
(sort of what tp said!)
PS they've dropped the price already.
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don't think any of this sort of thing is "training" really, just maintenance. The sort of thing you'll get given to do when you do break yerself. prevention's better than cure innit.
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The metolious thing gives you an interesting exercise - as you get a pump (minor) from squeezing the ball - then you can really feel the stretch back out on the outside of the arm..
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xSDNiWj6JuA/UOdM8lzauFI/AAAAAAAAAY0/q-wQbYXoAPI/s320/metolius+gripsaver+hand.jpg)
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Jesus fucking christ, you lot!
Stop thinking about this, get on a fucking fingerboard for a few years, develop some heavy imbalances from having too strong flexors, then come back on this thread!
I am a grumpy bastard. It's raining in the Dolomites and I am facing yet another weekend of board climbing and weights. Sorry.
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I am facing yet another weekend of board climbing and weights.
I don't understand why you're grumpy then? ;-)
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Jesus fucking christ, you lot!
Stop thinking about this, get on a fucking fingerboard for a few years, develop some heavy imbalances from having too strong flexors, then come back on this thread!
I am a grumpy bastard. It's raining in the Dolomites and I am facing yet another weekend of board climbing and weights. Sorry.
Sounds like you need some powerfingers to pass the time.... ;)
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Better :alky: :alky: and :kiss2:
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I'm starting to think we need a ukb room 101 for things like this and gill&gill.
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I think its a decent training / warm up / warm down idea - just not at £20.....
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Had a look at the power fingers site, bit strange!
I'd have thought they'd shift more of these selling them individually?
1 for £4/5 rather than a set of 5 for £20, why do you need a set of 5?!
Who has 5 therabads? :shrug:
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Yup - and if you had two or three you could double up or get different combo's for different strengths etc...