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the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: SA Chris on December 22, 2015, 01:10:36 pm

Title: Best of 2015
Post by: SA Chris on December 22, 2015, 01:10:36 pm: It's that time of year to crow about your triumphs and weep about your failures

Top three boulder probs, UK
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Top three sport routes UK
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Top three new route/prob put up
Top Spankings

Here's a link to last year's containing links to older ones

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=25227.0
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Will Hunt on December 22, 2015, 01:19:23 pm: Bah! It's not over yet!
:boxing:
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Fiend on December 22, 2015, 01:19:39 pm: Top 3 trad routes Wales:
The Long Run, Gogarth
Byzantium, Craig Doris
Crimson Cruiser, Moelwyns

Top 3 trad routes elsewhere:
Ayatollah, Creag Dubh
Finesse, St Loy
Silver Shadow, Carn Vellan

Top 3 sport routes:
G'Day Arete, Dinorwic Quarries
Impact Zone, Dinorwic Quarries
Map of the Problematique, Penmaenbach Quarry

Top 3 routes abroad:
Narrenweg, Pfalz
Die Unvollendete, Pfalz
Reibekuchen, Pfalz

Top 3 boulder problems Northumberland:
Iceberg, Hepburn
Smooth Wall, Rothley
Cave Central LH, Bowden

Top 3 boulder problems elsewhere:
Apprentice Wall, Galloway
Muir's Masterpiece, Torridon
Gillercombe in general.

Top 3 new routes:
Whillans Crack, The Rhinnogs
The Bilberry Hunter, The Rhinnogs
Word Of Pain, The Rhinnogs

Top 3 spankings:
The ones where it involved a burly lock around a roof.
The ones where conditions were too warm and greasy.
The ones where I was doing fine and a foot slipped.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Duncan campbell on December 22, 2015, 01:27:49 pm: Quote from: Fiend on December 22, 2015, 01:19:39 pm
Top 3 trad routes Wales:
The Long Run, Gogarth
Byzantium, Craig Doris
Crimson Cruiser, Moelwyns

Ooooh Nice one would love to do all of those. How was Long Run? (without giving me too much beta)
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: SA Chris on December 22, 2015, 01:28:35 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK - I'm going to make these established ones.

Low Break 6c at Boltsheugh - done before, but great climbing

Assorted probs at Brimham

Top three boulder probs, abroad -

nothing never climbed outside UK

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Only done one - the Dagger in Creag Etchachan. Great climbing, long approach, snatched from a wet summer.

Top three sport routes UK

Good day at Legaston

Death is the Hunter 6b+
Bomber 6a+
Sweet Revenge 6a+

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

nothing never climbed outside UK

Top three new route/prob put up

Had a really productive year but best are probably;

Double Tap Variation 6b(ish) Yellow Wall, Clochindare Bay
Arab Spring 6a(ish) Oasis Crag
Triangulation 6a(ish) Oasis Crag

Top Spankings

No Remorse - Legaston. Got away with bouldering fitness on all routes until I got on this one and got so pumped I couldn't move
Driller Killer - Legaston. Bouldery so should have got away with it, but was blown after trying NR and it was getting warm and greasy on that buttress, so lobbed off a couple of times before calling it a day.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: cheque on December 22, 2015, 01:31:11 pm: Quote from: SA Chris on December 22, 2015, 01:10:36 pm

It's not yet that time of year to crow about your triumphs and weep about your failures

We need something to look forward to in the first week of January.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: SA Chris on December 22, 2015, 01:33:40 pm: Quote from: cheque on December 22, 2015, 01:31:11 pm
Quote from: SA Chris on December 22, 2015, 01:10:36 pm

It's not yet that time of year to crow about your triumphs and weep about your failures

We need something to look forward to in the first week of January.

Well you can stick a fork in me, I'm done!
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Fiend on December 22, 2015, 01:46:48 pm: Quote from: Duncan campbell on December 22, 2015, 01:27:49 pm
How was Long Run? (without giving me too much beta)

From YYFY:

Quote from: Fiend
...one of the best climbing experiences of my life. Not the hardest route I've done recently, but it was everything I hoped it would be, utterly engrossing and thrilling

I didn't find it that hard, mostly because the route suited me perfectly - just off vertical, continously tricky but positive moves in between good rests, with fiddly but adequate gear. Conditions were perfect and it was unchalked until the end where someone had done The Clown.

I just loved it, it was like being in a dream where everything is exactly how it's supposed to be, with the climb and my climbing. And yes, there WAS a seal watching. No seal, no Gogarth tick.

Serious? Well there is clearly bomber gear at 8m and then again at 30m.... In between it requires some hunting and fiddling and occasionally running it out. Not too serious if you get it right.

P.S. Forgot to mention that it was pretty interesting for me to get on something that I hadn't really considered before. Most inspirations I have for years or decades (CC I wanted to do since the photo in the old crimson-spined Tremadog guide!)....The Long Run I had been inspired by for a mere week, which added to the mystery I guess.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Duncan campbell on December 22, 2015, 01:53:25 pm: Ahh must have missed that.

Brilliant! Sounds amazing and having recently got a bit psyched for it it sounds amazing (I bet I have a right mare on it now) however I do love that style of bold vert(ish) wall climbing.

Well psyched for this now!

Good effort!
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Fiend on December 22, 2015, 02:00:23 pm: Thanks :)

It is definitely "that style".

Incidentally the Spicy Vujon curry house in Bangor makes a good celebration afterwards (and after Byzantium too).
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Fultonius on December 22, 2015, 02:25:36 pm: I know you are all winding down for the holidays, but I have a lot of uni work to do and these threads keep sucking me in. :w00t:

Top 3 Boulder Problems Abroad
Not been bouldering much this year, and none in the UK, but thought that since this is UKB I thought it best to start here.
1. Goldrake 6C at Val di Mello. Really chuffed to get it 2nd go in pretty warm conditions.
2. Some 7B thing at Citta dei Sassi the day after bouldering with Nibs, 3rd go. Not a classic problem, but nice to get it quickly.
3. Getting very close to the 7C (name I can't remember with Nibs). If I had more time I reckon it would have gone.

Top three boulder probs, UK
None. *Almost* managed to boulder in the peak when I was down for the rugby world cup in Leeds...but failed to get out of bed early enough.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
1.Fuhrer at Creak Dubh. A route I dismissed a few years ago as "the realm of the unhinged". Went fine and kicked off a good weekend of E4 tickage.
2.Ayatollah and First Offence at Creagh Dubh (the aforementioned E4 tickage.) Ayatollah in particular went very well. Great moves, which I read well and felt confident on. Happy.
3. Sapphires at Creag an Fithich. First route in the Sheigra area, will be back.
Top three sport routes UK
None
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Oooh, difficult one. Might have to expand this a bit.
Alpine: 1. Dru Couloir Direct. F*cking get in! Mind blowing and a real culmination of my 4 winters in Chamonix.
2. Scotch on the Rocks. Great to get embroiled in a classic Stevie Haston testpiece.
3. Brandler Hasse. Very, very happy to have scraped together enough rock climbing fitness to get this done in good style. Was a close call as I couldn't really climb much in the spring due to a pulley tweak.

Sport - lot's of fun, obscure routes in the Tyrol, Slovakia & Slovenia with the GF on our van travels. On the last climbing day before meeting my mate Andy to do the BH I got a 7a+/b 35m sport route called (1) Bicycle Race on the onsight. A good boost since it was around 10* overhanging, vaguely following a crack.
(2) the Huge flake crack on the Sasso Remenno in Val di Mello. Only Fr6c but pretty runout and very fun.
(3)Multipitch with gf in Val D'Aosta - Pà Ramuer e i Suoi Pargoli at Albard Di Bard. Great fun.

Top three new route/prob put up
Meh. Couple of scrappy boulder problems in Albard di Bard
E5 that turned out not be new.
Top Spankings
1.Lady Charlotte at Upper Cave Dunkeld. Been wanting to do this E5 for years - felt ready but did it with some random guy who spent half the time on belay on his phone or talking, so got uber pumped and failed.
2. The Clearences in Glencoe. Old, old school Ed Grindley E3!! Aid route. Freed by Cubby at E4 and quite astern test. Conditions failure. Long winded bloggy blog here: http://scottishclimbers.blogspot.co.uk/2015/09/the-clearences.html
3. Banana Groove E4 (E5?) Nevis. Piss wet and steep and hard and....
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Muenchener on December 22, 2015, 02:53:10 pm: Top one boulder probs, Frankenjura
Did a 6B+ in proper butch ‘jura style with heel hooks ‘n’ all, nary a crimpy slab for miles around. Quite proud of myself for this.
Am close to success on a 6C project at Kochel too. Modest grades by the general standard around here I know, but progress is progress.

Top three sport routes Greater Bavaria
Edelbitter 7a Konstein: excellent route, climbing highlight of the year. Three days, seven goes; shark will laugh if I call it a “project”
Gonzalier 7a Arco: was a good start to the year
Koung 6c+ Frankenjura. A rarity for the ‘jura: non-thuggy technical face climbing, generously bolted.

Top one sport routes UK (nearly)
Incapacity Benefit 7a+ WCJ Cornice. Made good progress in a day on this, felt like one more non-rainy day would have sealed the deal. Great crag.

Top one routes alpine rock
Kirchl Express, kaisergebirge. Not particularly hard but a long day out and a reconnaissance for the Dülfer

Top three new route/prob put up
:lol:

Top Spankings
Nails, Staden Moor. Nails. Have done this before a couple of times years ago and found it hard; found it too hard this year.
König Löwenherz, Buchstein, Gesäuse. Ran away mentally shattered after two pitches of Gesäuse “6a”
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: SA Chris on December 22, 2015, 03:36:13 pm: I think it should be "in home country" from now on rather than "UK" to accommodate all our non-UK posters?
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Muenchener on December 22, 2015, 04:10:45 pm: Fair enough. I reserve the right to use the borders of early mediaeval Bavaria (https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bajuwaren#/media/File:Bairisches_Mundartgebiet.PNG) rather that newfangled "Germany" malarkey
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: ashtond6 on December 22, 2015, 04:12:29 pm: wooo thanks for the thread, ridiculously bored at work...... I'm putting down routes I had the most fun on, rather than necessarily the best rock or moves:

Top three boulder probs, UK
Banana Reverse 7A
The Chiseller OS 6B
Strawberries 6B - love hate thing

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Circuit Breaker V3 (or 5.11b???)
Yabo Roof V3 (V4)
Can't decide between False Up 20 5.9/V0 & Plumbers Crack V0/5.9!

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Trout E6
Lunge E3
East Face Vivian Quarry E3
(Close 4th, Harvey Procters Spanking Slap - amazing devious line, with fantastic & very varied climbing)

Top three sport routes UK
Persistence of Vision 7a+
Crustacean 7a+/b
White Gold 7a

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Triple Direct 5.10 C2
Virginia 5.8 A3
Rubicon 5.10d E3

Top Spankings
ALL bouldering in USA
Longridge
Forest Rock!
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: tomtom on December 22, 2015, 04:19:24 pm: This has been a weird year for me.. rather than focus on two or three hard problems I've done 38 new problems between 7A and 7B+... so its more top areas rather than problems... still..

Top Three Boulder Problems UK
Jericho Road 7B I had a very pleasant summer at CragX (thanks to Haydn for showing me the ropes) and plugged away at JR - before giving up for a bit and then sending it when I didn't really expect to.

Bodgers Delight 7B A reverse traverse at Helsby. Two or three very hard moves (for me) and a couple of unique body positions/moves. Its a shuffle - but one that I enjoyed getting done.

Dove Lowe (the Crag) A lonely mini Almscliff (in aspect) set on the Lancs Moors... some lovely climbing on some great moorland gritstone. I've always enjoyed being there - despite being rained off twice, eaten by midges once, and thinking I was going to die by being struck by lightening another time :)

Woodwell also deserves a mention - had some great sessions there this summer - finally broke into the 7s there consistently, and Conies, And I even enjoyed spending time in Lancs Quarries!

Top Three Spankings
Hanks Wall 7A+ My Brownstones nemesis... I have got so close so many times... bah.

Zippys Traverse 7A (CragX) Spent a fair bit of time trying this in between flailing around on JR and whilst I have all the moves, all overlapping - there is no cigar....

Brad Pit 7C I can't get my heel up properly whilst keeping my lower foot in a sensible place. It just feels wrong. I hate it. I never want to see it again.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: petejh on December 22, 2015, 04:37:47 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK
Didn't touch a boulder all year. Did 1-4-7 and 1-5-7 on the mill campus board - honorary boulder tick.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
nada

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Wasn't a year for trad but,
Bone People (Gideon Quarry). Had wanted to do this for a while, decemnt (not best in the pass but still...) and it reminded me that I spent multiple days bolting a mega-classic overhanging arete newie on this wall a few year ago which I need to go and finish because it really will be one of the best in the pass!
Shouting Stage - enjoyed climbing this esoteric route which I 're-equipped' (i.e. stripped 3/4 of the old fixed gear out of). No-where near classic but it was a quiet year.
Flying Buttress (Cromlech)-The Wrinkle (Carreg Wasted)-Californai Arete (Slate). One of the most pleasant evenings this year was climbing these three for the first time on a muggy autumn evening by myself.

Top three sport routes UK
The Oak. What I trained for. A satisfying feeling getting periodised training right at the first try, feeling a noticeable peak, and using it to make the send feel easy, as it should.
The Desolation of Smaug. Really enjoyable climbing in the late evening sun, salvaged from a rain-filled day. Impressive workmanship by its creator!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Amelie at Rodeller
Then misfortune struck..

Top three new routes/probs put up
Shine On (The Diamond). While attention focused on the Gresham Media Machine^TM, stellar new route after stellar new route was being put up on the Diamond, almost as if new 3-star independent 35-50m grade 8s were going out of fashion (6 newies = or > 8a and 35m?) And not a facebook call-to-arms in sight.
Wide Asleep (Clogwyn Du). Perfect day all round. Doesn't get much better than that for onsight first ascent experiences.
The Charlatan (Clogwyn Du). Line I'd been failing to try for years, another class route on this little turbo adventure cliff.

Top Spankings
Second half of 2015.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Doylo on December 22, 2015, 05:38:36 pm: Quote from: petejh on December 22, 2015, 04:37:47 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Didn't touch a boulder all year.
Didn't you seige the Gop at one point?

Quote
While attention focused on the Gresham Media Machine^TM, stellar new route after stellar new route was being put up on the Diamond, almost as if new 3-star independent 35-50m grade 8s were going out of fashion (6 newies = or > 8a and 35m?) And not a facebook call-to-arms in sight.

You obviously aren't Facebook friends with Dave Redpath ;)
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: nai on December 22, 2015, 05:48:28 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK
Mothership Reconnection, Thorn. This would be quality anywhere, luckily it's on a remote moor in a quiet backwater so isn't totally trashed.
Burnt Heather, Thorn. A lovely grit feature also not getting trashed.
Parker, Shipley Glen. Red Baron has the stature and status but doesn't climb as nicely as it looks, hiding in it's shadow is this lovely deadpoint off an arete and smears to a distant sloper.

Top two boulder probs, abroad
Mise Au Poing, Rocher St Germain. Scary, sketchy, highball slab shenanigans. A footslip at the top, about 7m?, had me touching cloth.
Coleur Feu, JA Martin. Gutted to find the assis wet but didn't disappoint from standing.

Top three trad routes UK
Only did 3 quick trad sessions, a route from each:
Boulevard. First trad for 9 months, one warmup then did this. Was sure I'd blown it but just scraped through.
Bubbles Wall. Seemed decent nick at first but the backs of breaks and holds all damp, couldn't give up on the Onsight though. Spent ages on it and nearly slipped off grovelling out.
Pygmies Walk Tall. Worth the star and upgrade in the new guide, really fun.

Top one sport route UK
Roof Warrior. Hadn't been on the radar until I got injured and needed a route with minimal crimping. First 8a, YYFY, etc.

Top Spankings
Chewed up and spat out by Why Me? again, a move closer at least and the upgrade makes me feel better about failure.
Endurance training - buggered if I could get it right, have brought in an expert

Top Nemeses slayed
Big Zipper. Probably put more time into this over the years than Roof Warrior, still took two sessions this year and was a proper fight at the top.
Free and Even Easier - fell off the last moves 4 times in a day with a heavy cold about 18 years ago and hadn't been on it since. Retro flashed on my birthday before being schooled by Raindogs.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: JohnM on December 22, 2015, 05:51:40 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK
It seems I didn't do much bouldering at all this year so wasn't hard to pick the top three. I think I bouldered three times, once at Bonehill, once on the Cromlech roadside and once at Craig y Longridge.
The Wave - Bonehill
The Rippled Wall - Bonehill
Snatch - Bonehill

Top three boulder probs, abroad
N/A

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
I didn't do much trad this year. Last year I went to Swanage quite a bit. This year the only time I went to do trad we got attacked by seagulls on every route we tried. I tried to get into DWS and had one good session and then the sea was massive every weekend for 3 weekends in a row.

The Bludgeon - Shepherds - Surprisingly wild for an E1.

Freeborn Man - Swanage - Was scared of doing this for years. Was easy when I finally committed but still a great experience. Have done it a few times since quickly going down as I have been walking past - so much fun!

New Dimensions - Castell y Gwynt - A really nice outing. The top turned into a real unexpected fight as the rock had fully condensed and I could barely hold on!

Top three sport routes UK
Air Show - Ship Wreck Cove - Some of the best sport climb out there if you get it in condition.

Herbie - Malham - Really enjoyed this one after failing on it back in the day.

Statement - LPT - Tried this on and off over the years so was good to finally finish it off.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Humildes Pa Casa - Oliana - Some of the best tufa wrestling out there!

Fish Eye - Oliana - Not as good as Humildes but my main objective of the trip and I was happy that all the training over the winter paid off.

Debout Les Morts - Kalymnos - Amazing climbing and positions whatever the grade is.

Top three new routes/probs put up

N/A

Top Spankings
Energy Vampire - Malham. I find this route painful and hard in equal measure.

Masterclass - Pen Trwyn. Can't remember if I tried this year but if I did I probably got shut down.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: petejh on December 22, 2015, 08:32:21 pm: Quote from: Doylo on December 22, 2015, 05:38:36 pm
Quote from: petejh on December 22, 2015, 04:37:47 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Didn't touch a boulder all year.
Didn't you seige the Gop at one point?

Quote
While attention focused on the Gresham Media Machine^TM, stellar new route after stellar new route was being put up on the Diamond, almost as if new 3-star independent 35-50m grade 8s were going out of fashion (6 newies = or > 8a and 35m?) And not a facebook call-to-arms in sight.

You obviously aren't Facebook friends with Dave Redpath ;)

3 days at the Gop was just the end of my power phase before redpointing. Sent those 7Bs - forgot about them, should've flashed them, and then worked Push the Button. Keen to go back to that if my arms ever return.

I'm not virtual friends with anyone.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 22, 2015, 08:48:43 pm: I think I managed the whole of 2015 without going on the lime

I didn't do much climbing, but at least... yeah... it doesn't mean much
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Richie Crouch on December 22, 2015, 11:04:08 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK

1. Louis Armstrong, Parisellas cave: this took an immense amount of perseverance and going backwards several times before it all clicked and went down in a low expectation after work session. It was a great mental breakthrough knowing what is possible and it didn't feel at the absolute limit, just very hard, so hopefully there is room for improvement and something slightly harder in the future!

2. Mr Fantastic, Jerry's roof: although it felt a fair bit easier than when I first tried it years ago, it was still immensely satisfying grovelling over that lip completely out of breath and sketching like a punt!

3. Lightweight, Rhiw Goch: not the most glorious line but a wonderful 2 mover and a good session doing badgers first try too.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

1. El Varano, Albaraccin: a great striking prow with a semi dodgy landing and great Spanny moves with heels and toe hooks, most enjoyable!

2. La Piscine, Gros Sablons: an easy highball that felt fully committing and exhilarating, great to do and I'd love to return to try and tick off the whole black highball circuit there one day.

3. Figure de proue, Elephant: another not so hard but good techy/mental challenge. Good to climb it with super bunched, non lank beta.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

1. The File, Higgar Tor: First experience of proper jamming and it was sans warmup onsight. It felt the living end for 4c(V0?!)And took every last ounce of energy not to fall off! A true full body pump for my puny legs and arms.

2. Excalibur, Lawrencefield: a good adventure with some interesting moves that were duly avoided and overtechniqued!

3. MeringueL lawrencefield: I only did 3 trad routes under duress this year, so this is a distantly poor 3rd

Top two new route/prob put up

1. 60 All Out!, Talfarach: I somehow found a gap in the crag that hadn't had the full Hayward treatment, so stepped in to add a good burly sitter into some great tic tac shuffling on poor sloping holds to a good obvious top out. It was named in celebration after watching that rather memorable Ashes session before we headed down the coast!

2. Arnold is número uno, tremerchion: My esteemed cockney friend Matt had done a bizarre mono stack finish half way up an obvious line on the far right of trem, so I snuck in and added a nice fingery finish to the obvious high ledge where the rock ends and vegetation begins.

Top Spankings

1. Tried to link hatchatrocity into Louis Armstrong for 2 sessions and realised I need to get a lot fitter/stronger!

2. Tried Last Stand and didn't manage the move for 3 sessions in July/Aug and sacked off the cave for the rest of the year!

3. Tried Pools of Bethesda after work for a good 3-4 sessions and didn't stick the porthole move despite trying at least 3 methods.

Just realised I only left Wales for a whole year to go to Albaraccin and Font. Not 1 day of Grit choss logged! ;)
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Hoseyb on December 22, 2015, 11:50:49 pm: Weird year. I started trying to sort out my bodies failings, and I'm still trying at the end. However I'm possibly the most positive I've been about it all year so let's see how it goes.
Very little text book climbing this year, but two flipping awesome patios built. Therefore, Neverfall and Tumbleweed should make the boulder list. The Baron in Twll Mawr was a bittersweet journey, but the first pitch was worth it all. Top scootering this year too, melting through the back tyre on the Llugwy road, and locking the back wheel on a wet Marchlyn day were particularly invigorating. As was trying to dws at shale city. Plenty to smile about anyway. :yes:
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Fiend on December 23, 2015, 09:59:04 am: Quote from: Richie Crouch on December 22, 2015, 11:04:08 pm

1. The File, Higgar Tor: First experience of proper jamming and it was sans warmup onsight. It felt the living end for 4c(V0?!)And took every last ounce of energy not to fall off! A true full body pump for my puny legs and arms.

Fantastic stuff, that is what any dedicated boulderer's experience of The File should be like :)
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: TobyD on December 23, 2015, 10:06:21 am: Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Not many to choose from, but...
Bionics Wall, New Mills Torrs Pumpy fun, nice venue.
Certain Surprise, Split Rock Quarry. ditto above comment!
Standard Stanage soloing circuit on a sunny evening; always a winner, however many times I do it. Which reminds me, haven't done rainbow bridge yet this year - NYE ascent?!

Top three sport routes UK
Ouijaboard 8a Cornice Cheedale.
Toys for the Boys 7c+, Cheedale. One of Cheedale's best (monos).
Sticky Wicket - Ashes link 8a, Kilnsey. Stupid arbitrary link up, great fun climbing.
and... The sea is a brown paper bag 7b+, Cheedale. Amazing route, absolutely nails.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Pipeline 7c OS, Sicily A small titbit of dry rock in a week of abysmal weather, the worst I've ever had on a sport climbing holiday
Planete Groove 8a Tarn Pretty soft but a great fun set of moves (but i'd say still 8a unless you're lanky)
Arachnide 7c OS, Tarn Techy fun, pleased to get this third day on feeling pretty knackered (and having just fallen off the 6c+ warm up)

Top Spankings
Crimson Dynamo, Split Rock
Overnight Sensation, Malham
Groove, Malham
Love Amongst the Butterflies, Cornice
and so many more...
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: GazM on December 23, 2015, 10:29:48 am: Done a fair bit of having to be an adult this year - house, wedding, job, dog - so climbing has been restricted to local stuff, no trips away and hardly any trad (time and weather being the main enemies). However, building a board and being a bit more structured about training has provided a few gains. There's a distinctly Highland flavour:

Top three boulder probs, UK
Malcs Arete, Torridon - Finally ended a 6 year obsession.
The Catch, Scatwell - My 1st 7B on a crisp cold March night.
The Crack, Reiff in the Woods - An innocuous looking bastard in a stunning location (if you ignore the road 5 metres away).

Top three sport routes UK
Too Old to be Famous, Goat Crag - Came together over two sessions back in March. Snow on the hills, blue sky, dry rock, crag banter. Sums up why I live up here.
Whinging Consultants, Brin - I decided to make this a pre-wedding project so put myself under unnecessary time pressure and went through the full projecting emotional arc before it succombed.
Warm Brown Streak, Am Fasgadh - Perhaps not a great route per se, but another route that took me on the journey. Felt impossible the first time I tried it.

Top two new route/prob put up
What's the Story Kildermorie? 6B and Crystal Methodist 6C, Strath Rusdale - Part of the ongoing (and very slow) development of a widespread jumble of granite erratics in the area. Perhaps not the best bouldering, but there's something deeply satisfying about beavering away at my own little obsession. Need to pull my finger out and do more scrubbing.

Top Spankings
Trad climbing in general. The weather has been desperate up here this year, but I probably need to make more of an effort to find psyched partners that want to climb similar stuff to me.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Doylo on December 23, 2015, 10:32:38 am: 8B boulderer nearly falls off The File!
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: JohnM on December 23, 2015, 10:41:25 am: In what tearing of the fabric of space-time did Richie Crouch end up standing under The File racking up!? I had to read that twice to check it wasn't a piss take.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: dave on December 23, 2015, 10:47:01 am: Good year really, even with elbow issue killing a bit of momentum in spring/early summer. Certainly based on numbers alone, more stuff done at 7c or 7c+ than before by a significant margin. Elbow grief aside I think I was reaping the benefits of a winter of Schoolroom stuff.

Top three boulder probs, UK

Panopticon - superb roof
River Of Life - excellent, satisfying do it after being close in spring but forced to abandon it with injury, then be able to come back in autumn.
Cosmic Wheels - great to go back up to this boulder after well over a decade. Still a battle.

Top three School probs, abroad

Too Fluffy - correct angle
Turd Reich - correct angle
Schoolboy - when it was too steep, brutal

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Cyfrwy Arete - Cader Idris
Troutdale Pinnacle, Borrowdale
Pinnacle Ridge, St Sunday Crag - first winter route in the UK I've done since 1998.

Top three sport routes UK

Step On It, Turkey Dip

Top three new route/prob put up

Foot-on version of Zippatricks - brilliant moves on this.

Top Spankings

Caviar - went back on it first time since 2009, could do it all straight off bar the start which I couldn't do. Blaming it on elbow grief.
Pump Up The Power - fell off tickling the top jug.
Peak limestone bouldering in general - got out load but did scarcely anything new. Was geared up for a renaissance year but elbow grief put the kibosh on the crucial early season momentum.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Andy F V2.0 on December 23, 2015, 10:49:06 am: Quote from: JohnM on December 23, 2015, 10:41:25 am
In what tearing of the fabric of space-time did Richie Crouch end up standing under The File racking up!? I had to read that twice to check it wasn't a piss take.

When the fuck did Crouchie learn to jam? You don't get taught that in the Cave.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Doylo on December 23, 2015, 10:53:22 am: Quote from: Andy F V2.0 on December 23, 2015, 10:49:06 am
Quote from: JohnM on December 23, 2015, 10:41:25 am
In what tearing of the fabric of space-time did Richie Crouch end up standing under The File racking up!? I had to read that twice to check it wasn't a piss take.

When the fuck did Crouchie learn to jam? You don't get taught that in the Cave.

I'd guess he didn't jam on it once. Non proper climbers can layback it and use a few face holds. That's why it feels so nails.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Ally Smith on December 23, 2015, 11:36:30 am: Top 3 trad routes/solos:
Point 5, Ben Nevis - perfect blue sky day and first no the route - don't think there's a better way to lose your Ben cherry?
The Shouting Stage, Penmaenbach - first route after shoulder fuckage and a massive relief to be able to climb again
Horny lil devil, Lulworth - perfect sun-kissed day out DWS'ing

Top 3 UK sport routes:
Mandela, Kilnsey - multi-season bugbear laid to rest
Licking Tarmac/Fisting Katie, Cheddar - gaffer tape jamming glove entertainment
Genuflection, Wallsend South - fun day in the sun

Top 3 routes abroad:
French Pillar, Oman - epic
Twinkie, RRG - even more fun than BOHICA if that's actually possible?
Montana Magica, Chulilla - first hard thing after shoulder fuckage

Top 3 boulder problems:
Lou Ferrino sans pocket - totally unexpected send for my first "short" 8A
Beachball, Secret Garden - felt so unlikely, then just worked
Can't think of any other notables - this must mean i need to boulder more next year!

Top 3 new routes:
Grand Canyon Extension, Devil's Gorge - cat's out the bag now
Beetroot & Creatine link-up, Devil's Gorge

Top 3 spankings:
Fisheye, Oliana - 10days of redpointing up to the same move at 28m was demoralising
Paradise Lost, RRG - anti-style on a warm day served me my arse on a plate big stylee!
Skunk Love, RRG - 11b slab. Multiple hangs to get to the top of this "6c"
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Eddies on December 23, 2015, 12:23:44 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK

Night of Lust - Ramshaw - 7A - I had a full on battle with this one, took me two sessions to work out my beta after finding others beta didn't work for me. Finally got it on third session on my own with my dog... Shouting at the A53! It's 7B All day long
Sheep Shifter - Cave Dale - 7B/+ - I really enjoyed my time in Cave Dale working this one after work on my own during the warm evenings of June.
Big Marine - Craig y Longridge - 7B - My first 7B Flash - I loved my first trip to CyL, really like the style of climbing there and the vibe.

Top three sport routes, UK

Wild In Me - Raven Tor - 7C/+ - A project left over from 2014. I trained especially for this route over the winter before and it paid off, felt hard but stead on the send, I didn't put a foot wrong and it got me whet for a summer of sport climbing. A cracking little route.
Beginners Wall - 7B+ - Short, powerful, satisfying... what's not to like!? It's a perfect route for a boulderer.
Let's Get fossilised - Beginners Wall - 7C+ - Another gem from this wall. the difficulties lie in the first half, then you just have to calm the fook down and take it steady to the top... Well I didn't! I was overgripping, pumped, and nervous but I finished it and couldn't stop laughing afterwards... So pumped couldn't untie my knot... Proper redpoint scenes!

Top three spankings

Another year of being spanked by T-Crack!
Fossil Wall - Beginners Wall - 7C Dirty grovely crack line... One for next year.
Black, Sack & Crack’ - Blackwell Dale - 7B+ Don't look online for beta on this one!
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: T_B on December 23, 2015, 12:26:07 pm: This definitely felt like a breakthrough year for my bouldering, off the back of the re-opening of the Schoolroom and shared psyche with other folk aiming for similar objectives and also juggling family commitments (cheers Dave). I did more problems graded 7C+ and above this year than in all previous years combined. Didn't go abroad, hardly did any trad at all, but keeping it simple and focussed meant climbing was never really stressful, despite the usual lack of time.

Top three boulder probs, Grit
River of Life 7C+ -gritstone board climbing in that lovely windy April spell. Felt impossible at first then the sequence came together with Schoolroom pow.
Low Rider 7C+ - featured in my spankings list of 2011 when I spent five sessions on it. This year I was stronger, got a decent sequence and nailed in second session, though not without falling off the last move once.
Domes sitter 7B+/7C – not the hardest but a memorable evening that started in Cave Dale on Sheep Shifter and then saw me driving to Rowter for last light and the last of the spring grit bouldering season. Loved the sequence on this.

Top three boulder probs, Lime
Badger Badger Badger 8A – 6 sessions. Tried it in the summer and got close. Went on holiday then came back, trained and waited for cooler temps in September. A mega problem that plays to my strengths, but with a frustrating deadpoint. My first proper solid Font 8A bloc : )
The Pinch 7C – 6 sessions. Total battle. Probably as much conditions during the summer but I beat it into submission at the end of a long, dark evening. So chuffed to do this problem, as I find it desperate.
Pump up the Power 7C+ - never thought I’d do this. Linking into it might be my chance of snagging 8A+ ;-)

Top three boulder probs, Schoolroom
Mr Blobby the Swing Man 7C, pre correct angle. Brutal.
Basic Ben 7C – my hardest on the 50 degree, back in 2001. Satisfying to repeat this.
The Schoolboy 7C – never did this “back in the day” despite trying. Proof that I’m stronger than I’ve ever been.

Top three sport routes UK
Caviar 8a+ - one evening in early May having spent a lot of days over the years on this. Did the bouldering and AnCap training and despatched in a session this year.
Step on It 7c+ - a nice little route.
One Ton Depot 7b+ - was a bit underwhelmed with Shipwreck Cove to be honest (dubious rock, dubious that it's bolted?!). Had a dog up the ‘classic’ (AKA unbalanced) 7c+ but blatantly not fit enough to dispatch in one morning session.

Top three trad routes/solos UK
Amorican VS, Pembroke – a magic day with Mrs T_B when we did this and some sea traversing
Barrel Traverse DWS – another enjoyable outing sans kids

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Nowt

Top three new route/prob put up
Nowt

Top spankings
Zeke the Freak. I dunno. I think it’s probably just too fingery for me, but I will go on it again because of setting/ease of access
Lour Ferrino. Year 2. On paper I should be able to do this FFS! At least Robins gave me some crucial beta, which I think will make the difference. Hatchatrocity was a nice consolation prize.
Pump up the Powerband. Not strictly spanking as it’s given 8A+and I only had three sessions on it after doing PUTP, but I thought I was in with a chance. Slapped the gaston i.e. two moves from the finish, on one occasion. Know what I need to get this done and hopefully next spring I will.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: jimmykay on December 23, 2015, 12:58:24 pm: Weird year for my climbing. Started the year by climbing an 8A, by April I'd gone mad and have kind of been on a break from climbing since June.

Top three boulder probs, UK

Diesel Power - Starting the year as I thought it would go on. I couldn't find anyone who wanted to drive up to North Wales from Birmingham so headed up on my own. Absolutely baltic (2nd January) Sat reading my book in my car with the heat on full and my boots tucked under the fans. I got out the car 4 times over the course of an hour. After a small beta change provided by some helpful locals it went in around an hour. It was one of those problems I never thought I'd be able to do.

Sam Tan - Literally had to get a bit crazy to psyche myself up for this one. After pulling into the launch position numerous times over the last 5 years, I finally did what my brain thought was the impossible.

Cosmic Wheels - After a really miserable trip to font we drove up to this beauty. Didn't quite have the skin to pull on the 2 starting crimps of Will - but it's not as though it was a waste of time walking up for this beauty. (I won't take the Mondo up there in future...)

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Awesome, awesome boulders.
Eclipse
Noir Desir
Pancras Assis

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Star Gate - First trad climbing in 2 years, Mother Carey's great idea! E5's felt easy back then after a good few months of sport climbing. I was absolutely petrified on this. Despite the holds being bigger than the warm up jugs at the wall, I had absolutely no faith in any of the gear. Probably reduced my life expectancy by at least 3 years.

Brazen Buttress - Always wanted to do this after my first trip to Pembroke. It didn't disappoint. Most of the battle was with my head game again on this route.

Kaiser Wall - I wasn't a massive fan of this but as it was my only other trad route, it's nice to be able to fill this section this year. I was almost killed by a falling brick sized rock that was blown off the top as I was close to topping out.

Top three sport routes UK

I Punched Judy First
Walking with Barrence
Pump Hitler

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Planete Causse - Absolutely class bucket pulling for what seemed like an eternity.
Alambic - More of the same

Top Spankings
Where do I begin?
Wax Museum
Fata Morgana - After falling off the last move (Yes I'm aware there are only 2 moves but the first is THE move) after a handful of attempts, I had my arse well and truly handed to me before the heavens opened and rained for 4 consecutive days - just long enough to see us to the end of our trip. Ha. Crap.
Western Eyes - 2 days after the Diesel Power send I headed to Burbage for this. Should have done it 2nd go but coudn't commit to the last move. 2 goes later I did commit but my foot popped and I ended up nailing my arm on the rock below. Lots of blood - but nothing broken. I also split 4 of my tips on that go... Didn't realise how ruined my skin had been before trying this.
Mussel Beach - Fell off the top again. The first time I'd tried this for around 4 years. Felt much easier though - Definitely going to try and get this done next year. That'd be nice... a first sport F8a in 3 years.
Dark Reservation - Lots of fruitless trips to Anston.
Mirf's Roof - Fell off the end. A lot.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: dave on December 23, 2015, 01:29:29 pm: Quote from: T_B on December 23, 2015, 12:26:07 pm
shared psyche with other folk aiming for similar objectives and also juggling family commitments (cheers Dave).

You're welcome. Not a bad year all round for Dad Squad.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: the_dom on December 23, 2015, 04:45:17 pm: Top 3 Boulder Problems Abroad:
(1) Molunk, Brione. So good.
(2) Megalight, Font. Class.
(3) Selection Door, Chironico.

Close # 4, 5 and 6: Clandestino and Orgasme Cosmique, Font. Sloper Attack, Chironico.

Top Boulder Problems at Home:
(1) Tokolosh, the Scree, Cape Town. Surprised to repeat this in a quick session. World class problem.
Didn't do all that many new problems in 2015.

Top 3 Spankings:
(1) Fallen Fighter sit, the Scree, Cape Town. So many sessions to repeat something I've done before.
(2) The Sound of Violence. So many sessions of fail.
(3) Multiple Swiss 7As that I couldn't get off the ground on.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Fiend on December 23, 2015, 05:47:07 pm: Big up Dave climbing a trad route on Cader Idris. The only UKBer to do so this year?
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: B0405413 on December 23, 2015, 06:21:57 pm: Top 3 Trad Routes:

Right Wall- Every bit as good as I expected, I climbed much better than I thought I would too, which is nice. Bolder but easier than expected.

Bat out of Hell- Every time I've been to Higgar Tor I've had some of my best ever days climbing. This route is awesome.

Central Wall- At Kilnsey. Everything that's awesome/horrible about trad climbing; loose and dirty with a safe runout.

Top 3 Sport Routes:

Comedy- Great fun swinging around like a monkey.

The Truth Drug- Very varied and underrated.

Space Race- Probably my favourite sport route to date.

Top three Boulders:

Joker's Wall Traverse-Had some good training sessions on this on rainy days, great fun going the other way too.

Philleas Fogg- More people should climb in the NY moors, it's awesome

The Sheriff- Looks shit but really good.

Top Spankings:

Bush Bully- I refuse to believe anyone has ever done this.

Fluide- Get within an inch of the top but still don't feel close to doing it.

Anything at the Leeds Wall
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Kingy on December 23, 2015, 07:17:06 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK

Hatch Life High 8A (Parisellas Cave, North Wales)
Jungle VIP 8A (Burrator Reservoir, Dartmoor)
Ovine Low Left 7C (Griff's Buttress, Blackwell Dale, Peak District)

Top three boulder probs, abroad

None

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

None

Top three sport routes UK

Hajj 8c (Raven Tor)
Monumental Armblaster 8b (Cheedale Cornice)
Predator 8b (Malham)

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Just Do It (to first loweroff) 8a+/8b (Smith Rock, Oregon, USA) Did 14 times in total over 2 trips whilst trying the full route
Adios Sol 8b (Sector 45, Costa Blanca, Spain - where Gaz's FA 8c+ Supersonico is)
El Capataz Incapaz 8a (Chulilla, Spain) (my 2nd 8a onsight, even if its pretty soft ;))

Top three new route/prob put up

The Terminator 8b+ (Malham)
Ben's Roof Superstart Circuit 8A (Raven Tor)

Top Spankings

Just Do It 8c+ (Smith Rock, Oregon) Whilst making good progress during 2 two week trips in Spring and autumn (fall?!), I didn't manage to get through the first crux from the ground, keen to go back when I can. Ideally I will need longer than 2 weeks but work don't allow this so I may have to put this back to when I potentially change jobs in the future and can grab a 6 week stint. A stunning line, not wasted time at all, enjoyed every minute of my attempts.

True North 8c (Kilnsey) Tried extensively every weekend pretty much over the summer up until my last session on 4 October! Thwarted ultimately by persistant wetness in crucial pockets in September once the route semi-dried out again after a deluge of biblical proportions appeared to have ended the season in late August. Also, I realised on my last session, I had been using the wrong beta for me with my feet too high on the crimpy section after the Full Tilt belay and also undercutting the block higher up. Psyched for a rematch next year! On the flip side, lapping Full Tilt is as good PE training as any I reckon

Hatchatrocity 8A (Parisellas Cave, North Wales) I was pleased to get through the flake match in November/ December once back from Smith Rock as I couldn't do this in Spring as my left back muscle around the rhomboid area was very sore and tender and I felt underpowered compared to my right arm. Had this looked at by a physio over the summer who managed to get it working again over 4 - 5 sessions. Was hopeful of getting the problem done before Christmas but then every weekend in November and early December it was pretty much wet and despite repeated attempts while drying key holds, no cigar then I sprained my ankle 10 days ago so out the game for a few weeks, there is always the beastmaker!
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: stokesy on December 24, 2015, 04:31:24 am: Always a good thread, been a productive year:

Top three boulder probs, UK

- Barry Kingsize: Did this as a massive swing and slap from the last good hold. Two hours work to get the direction of the move right and success just as my arms started to fail. One of the best moves I've ever stuck.

- Dreamland: Really enjoyed this, weird slick holds and great moves.

- Horn Rib: Burly sloper slapping and a big finishing move, proper fun.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

- Black Wall: An awesome bit of climbing, technical, powerful and so bloody satisfying when it went. The sitter was surprisingly good too.

- Blind Ambition: Seven metres of Baring Head highball goodness with a crux way above the sand, pumped, on bad holds, shut the brain off and made the big slap for the finishing hold. Brilliant, and bouldering by the Cook Strait is about as atmospheric as it gets.

- Only the Good Die Young: The original line on this wall is really good too.

Top three ~~trad routes/soloes~~ UK highballs

- Crescent Arete: Why it's taken me so long to do this is beyond me, so good I ran back down and did it again. Essential.

- Baby Spice: The best problem at Ilkley? Probably, certainly my favourite after over a year living next door. Took 3 sessions of effort and a monster fall from the top move, missing my pads in the process. A real milestone for me, I wouldn't have got near a f7A+ in this style a few years ago.

- Vim: Not really a highball but gave me the fear thanks to crap pads and no spotter. Nice technical moves, Shipley is a gem of a crag.

Top three sport routes UK - Seeing as I only went once (Giggleswick South of all places), not going to pick any

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

- DWS in Ha Long Bay generally, but specifically the 6c on the 3 brothers wall, not sure of the name. A fantastic bit of bouldering off the boat into a pump inducing sprint to the finish.

Top three new route/prob put up

- Did a ~f6B on a boulder in the middle of a beach on Koh Samui. No idea if it'd been done, excellent despite the horrific heat. Made for a lot of confused looking beachgoers anyway.

Top Spankings

- Grape Nut: Specifically the top move, just couldn't get it sussed despite being able to get up there every time (that move off the ground is ace). Annoying unfinished business.

- DWS in Ha Long Bay. Whilst excellent I also found this quite hard work (read terrifying), and it turns out I'm terrible at diving as my horrendously bruised legs will testify.

- The heat in SE Asia: I might have really enjoyed the place but was so pleased to get back to cold weather.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: tomtom on December 24, 2015, 07:00:31 am: Dreamland is ace isn't it :) my favourite cliff problem.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: moose on December 24, 2015, 08:21:31 am: Nice selection Stokesy,

I've only done Dreamland once - got on it immediately after a sudden and intense hailstorm. Never felt the rock so grippy - like the rock had been scoured clean by the hail stones. Never dared get back on in less magical conditions.

Agree that Horn Rib (if its the f7a+/b LHS eliminate at Caley you mean) is great. Thuggy, slopey slapping is normally my anti-style but I really like the problem and it's one of the few problems at the grade I try to re-do every year.

Vim is cool too - so many good aretes and walls with slightly unnerving finishes at Shipley.... which reminds me that I must try to muster the courage to try Phil's Wall again (last go ended up in a hospital visit).
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: cofe on December 24, 2015, 09:51:10 am: Done more (volume) this year than last few years, but still not loads of problems. Had some good days, but only a few where I felt 'on it'. Hopefully better next year, and definitely keen for more Lakes and Wales action.

Top three boulder probs, UK
- Black Rhino, Howshaw. Great problem in a fantastic location.
- Sheep Shifter, Cave Dale. Very good, even though it's on limestone.
- Blackfoot, Rowsley Woods. Did it at Easter, felt like the first 'hard' problem I'd done since tearing my rotator cuff about 2 1/2 years before.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
- Rouse's Wall, Carrock Fell. This is just a really, really good problem. Fun day out with Dad Squadron.
- Flick of the Wrist, Tan y Grisiau. Probably as hard as I could have climbed at any point this year. A good day out which started sitting in the cafe at Stiniog watching the rain, only for it to turn out none of the climbing was wet.
- Death Clock, Lad Stones. Another good day out with Dad Squadron. Had wanted to do Warstarter, but stopped v. quickly when it became obvious I'd tweak a finger on it. Good fall back.

Top Spankings
- Hannibal, Stoney stinky piss trucker wank stop cave. Could do it in overlapping halves. Never linked it. Simply not strong enough. Three sessions, with conditions progressively worse each time. Hardly climbed on the last sesh. On my own, shit connies, not psyched. Might try again next spring while it's still cool and before the leaves are out.
- Zaff's Burbage. Dropped the top in the spring, dropped the top a couple of weeks ago. Not enough beans to link it all from the true start (both hands in pocket). Also warmed up terribly last time which has resulted in a week off to get my arms to settle down.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: turnipturned on December 24, 2015, 01:22:06 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK

Voyager- Great problem, big line, lots of history. The sesh it went was an epic, 2 hour approach in waist high snow. Not done with this block yet.

Bewilderness- Not the most aesthetic line but it's big on good quality rock (even though I snapped a hold). The move off the undercut is HARD. Put a lot of effort in to getting this done, after work sessions, getting there for 7 and getting home at 1 in the morning. Props to Dan V, man he has put up a lot of hard problems in the UK

Monks life- don't really have to justify this one. Utterly amazing and something I aspired to when I was a kid but never really thought I would ever do it. Would love to go back and top it out. {funny that my pinky was too big for the mono at the start, so I had to sand down my finger a lot and lick it before each go}

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Boogalagga- what a problem. Again not done with this block

Riverbed- kind of mental process so nice to finish it off

Limited edition- just incredible. Top 10 boulders in the world?

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Nowt- I planned to do loads of trad this summer in the lakes.... Never materialised. next year for sure!

Top three sport routes UK

Couple at hollywood bowl

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

N/A

Top three new route/prob put up

Losing my edge- nice one below Fluide at Brimham
Notionless- eliminate at Kilnsey, quite tough.

Top Spankings

Fluide- took a long time, glad to finally do it recently

Ill gotten gains- so hard for me. Bit out of reach and so sharpy for a fatty

General dissaray- well hard for the shorter gentlemen. Real close in autumn. Gunna concentrate on growing some this year and get it done
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Will Hunt on December 24, 2015, 01:25:56 pm: Quote from: turnipturned on December 24, 2015, 01:22:06 pm
Monks life

Just sayin'...

(Well done. Waddage!)
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: SA Chris on December 24, 2015, 02:04:40 pm: +1 on that. sanding down fingers and licking them - dedication. I now doubt my fat arthritic sausages would fit, so I'm not going to try it :)
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: the_dom on December 24, 2015, 04:55:03 pm: Quote from: the_dom on December 23, 2015, 04:45:17 pm
Top 3 Boulder Problems Abroad:
(1) Molunk, Brione. So good.
(2) Megalight, Font. Class.
(3) Selection Door, Chironico.

Close # 4, 5 and 6: Clandestino and Orgasme Cosmique, Font. Sloper Attack, Chironico.

Top Boulder Problems at Home:
(1) Tokolosh, the Scree, Cape Town. Surprised to repeat this in a quick session. World class problem.
Didn't do all that many new problems in 2015.

Top 3 Spankings:
(1) Fallen Fighter sit, the Scree, Cape Town. So many sessions to repeat something I've done before.
(2) The Sound of Violence. So many sessions of fail.
(3) Multiple Swiss 7As that I couldn't get off the ground on.

Oooh, given some thought, I can actually add a couple of local (-ish, well Rocklands is fairly local for me) problems from earlier in the year:
(1) Sean's Roof at the Champside which was a multi-year nemesis. Really happy with this, probably the best local problem I did all year.
(2) A 7B of Kili Fischburgers at Taj Mahal that was really good and went down quick.
(3) Black Labour at Cedar Spine - thin and crimpy and nice to put it down in a session.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: tomrainbow on December 24, 2015, 09:08:19 pm: Didn't get out of Devon very much!

Top 3 New Boulder Problems (UK)

(1) The Knave, Bovey Woods
(2) Sleeper, The Orgasmatron
(3) Sweet Caroline, Becka Brook Boulders

Top 3 Existing Boulder Problems (UK)

(1) Black Swansong, Bovey Woods
(2) The Cowboy Butcher, Lustleigh
(3) Airstream, Bovey Woods

Top 3 New Sports Routes, UK

(1) Salami Wall, Churston
(2) Metal Wasp, Churston
(3) The Ripples of Power, Berry Head Quarry

Top 3 Deep Water Solos, UK

(1) Killa Gorilla, Berry Head
(2) MC Navigator, Berry Head Quarry
(3) Old Man's Ladder, Berry Head Quarry

Top 3 Sports Climbs Abroad

(1) Carlito, Las Devotas - Bielsa
(2) Personne, Las Devotas - Bielsa
(3) Aracnofilia, Las Devotas - Bielsa
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Doylo on December 24, 2015, 10:05:50 pm: Proper Christmas tradition this thread. Ok year, didn't tick many route because spent most the time on one but form was decent.

Top three boulder probems, UK

Corridors of Power, Llanberis Pass - Really good line and nice to do it quick after seeing all the beasts go up and tick it.
Enter The Dragon, Tremeirchion - definitely a good bit of progression to do a hard one that's not power endurance. I'm still weak though :ras:
Game Changer, Guernsey - Work trip was made bearable by the hospitality of the locals (Smith brothers :2thumbsup:) who showed me their problems. The 2nd ascent of this one was my favourite, a cool prow.

Top three new route put up

Dick Dastardly, Llanddulas Cave - really sweet boulder problem on a rope. Had eyed it up for a while and it climbed well. Managed it as a finger rehab route.

The Witches of Pen Trwyn, Pen Trwyn - bouldery thing through a roof. Average route but always good to find a new one on the Orme

Yankee Doodle Pigeon, Llanddulas Cave - more bouldery fun

Top 3 problems put up

The Manor Traverse - Fun little manor crag campaign culminated in the big traverse.

Proctor Tribute Traverse- Another big traverse that weirdly hadn't been done.

Enter the Flag - Easier version of ETD.

Top Spankings

Dulas proj- might have happened if i hadn't hurt my finger and had to bugger off to Guernsey then girlfriend holiday. Didn't get properly redpointing until September which didn't leave enough time. Struggled mentally as I fell probably 70 times on the crux and went backwards in October before a highpoint on the last sesh before the rain. Learnt a lot.

Sparks, Pantymwyn - hardest problem in the world. Have done the moves several ways but can't link any of the different methods. Weak on those thin slots. Just fuckin nails for me!

Some 6C in Guernsey :slap:

Daisy From Concrete, Parisellas - My Cave nemesis this one, always fall off the 'easy' finish of Trigger. Don't get it!
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: stokesy on December 25, 2015, 12:40:46 am: Quote from: moose on December 24, 2015, 08:21:31 am
Nice selection Stokesy,

I've only done Dreamland once - got on it immediately after a sudden and intense hailstorm. Never felt the rock so grippy - like the rock had been scoured clean by the hail stones. Never dared get back on in less magical conditions.

Agree that Horn Rib (if its the f7a+/b LHS eliminate at Caley you mean) is great. Thuggy, slopey slapping is normally my anti-style but I really like the problem and it's one of the few problems at the grade I try to re-do every year.

Vim is cool too - so many good aretes and walls with slightly unnerving finishes at Shipley.... which reminds me that I must try to muster the courage to try Phil's Wall again (last go ended up in a hospital visit).

Tried Phil's Wall when I did Vim, wouldn't fancy falling near the top without a few pads! Cool problem though, will have to get back to it when I get back to the UK.

Yeah Horn Rib is that thing up at Caley Crag, great bit of bouldering even if it is a bit eliminate.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: joeisidle on December 25, 2015, 10:25:26 am: Nice to see Barry Kingsize made your list Ben! (made spotting you on it for about 3 hours seem all the more bearable ;) ). This thread is my favorite thing on UKB, certainly generates more psyche than the targets in the 2015 thread - not that I won't be claiming that I'll loose weight, get stronger etc.etc.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: ghisino on December 25, 2015, 11:46:10 am: Top three sport:
Hoy me voy, Tarn
Spit bouse, st léger
Barbitturique, Tarn
All three 8a

Top three bouldering
La dalle de fer 7c
Danse de printemps 7c (trav)
Winning a champagne magnum bottle at a friendly comp!

Only trad climb: Natilik

Top spankings:
Al andalouze, st léger. Just not at all my style.
L'ami de tout le monde, céuse. Went past the first section on two tries only, over two weeks. Almost dis it though!
Les beaux quartiers. Probably not the best choice if i want to climb an 8a boulder someday?
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Wood FT on December 25, 2015, 08:29:35 pm: A great year climbing wise, I'll always look back on this one with a certain joy.

Top 3 trad routes/solos:
Raiders of the Lost Auk,Pabbay (E4 5c) - The purest onsight I've ever done. A real battle as the rescue helicopter was conducting a rescue for 80% of pitch one

Warpath, Rhoscolyn (E5 6a) - On paper it was a shambles, falling off trying to flash an already regarded soft E5, but it was thanks to this weekend with a good mate that I didn't fall apart during a pretty shit part of my life. I owe climbing a lot.

Elysium, Pabbay (E4 6a) - Was going to say Sugar Cane Country but the top pitch of this hangs heavy in my memory, pulling over the roof I looked down and just couldn't believe it, outrageous exposure. Get some!

Top 3 UK sport routes:
Toys for the boys, Cheedale (7c+) - Always been intrigued by this route since I read Shark's hilarious blog. My favourite Cheedale route, perfect in it's genre I would say. It's Peak Lime for a reason.

Axle Attack, Pen Trwyn (7a+) - Not the biggest number but i'll remember this one for the craic, desperately trying to flash it, failing then watching and heckling a mate as he burnt me off nearly dropping it as his elbows went airborne.

Powerplant, Cheedale (8a) - YYFY Took me ages, totally not my style. Really Really enjoyed it though not without low points. Pulled it off late season, thanks to everyone who belayed me.

Top 3 routes abroad:

Afroman, Diablo (7b DWS) - Smashed my chest first go. The pinnacle of fun in climbing, a great trip.
NSFW :
https://vimeo.com/142224011
7a on the left at everyone warms up on, Oliana - Didn't do much on a fruitless Spanish trip but this is genuinely class, wonderful moves and rock.

Martinez Somoano, Naranjo de Bulnes (TD) - Unexpected trip to the summit up the east face, the consolation prize.

Top 3 boulder problems:

Tricky one as I've only done 2 new problems this year according to my logbook, what a fraud.

Dobbin's Blog, Dobb Edge (7A) - Nice little wall and a satisfying lash

Book end, Bamford (6B) - Never noticed this before

Top 3 spankings:
Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes (TD) - Oh you silly billy. Lesson learnt, keep calm and don't quest off rope lengths on a gut feeling.

Positiva Energia, Terradets (7c+) - Brits abroad syndrome, pumped out of my mind, next time I come back to Bruxes I'm onsighting the fucking crag

Why me?, Cheedale (7c+) - slap whipper slap whipper slap whipper go home. Repeat after work loads of times. Stacked Sam cored my rope. What a move, power growls!

Top 3 parties:
Dettmann and Klock b2b, Bloc Fest - Perfect end to a brilliant weekend

Lucy/Paula Temple, Hopeworks - After the works party, a few remaining heads.

Works After Party, Sam/Gus/Chris/Malc - DIY and inclusive, I love Sheffield.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: ashtond6 on December 25, 2015, 10:15:18 pm: Nice write up. Yyfy climbing
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: duncan on December 25, 2015, 10:40:29 pm: I've really enjoyed reading what others get up to, some people have had great years.

Top three trad routes UK
Pick any three routes I did at Fairhead. Mizzen Star probably the best of an excellent bunch. Midnight Cruiser at 9.30 in the evening, last on the crag and still hours of daylight left, was a great memory. The Doffer was also a memory, of a different sort, fairplay to the Fairhead climbers of the 70s. Keen to return for the festival again next year and to get myself onto some harder stuff.

Top three sport routes UK
Had some good days by the seaside with some good people but no climb was individually very memorable. I'd planned to get properly involved with redpointing this year but for various reasons, not least habit, it didn't happen.

Top three routes abroad
Spasspartout and Sonnenkoenig (Wendenstock). It took a couple of trips to actually climb there but I loved the place and will be back for more. All I hoped it would be.
Los cojones de Satan at the excellent Rumenes. A consolation for not getting up Naranjo but maintained the 7a onsighting record even if I didn't maintain the E3 one.

Top Spankings
Rabada-Navarro, or rather the Picos weather. It wasn't really a spanking since we knew it was unlikely the route was on when we started and just being up there was great. Put it down as a good reconnaissance.
Meister Proper (Lehn) on the Swiss trip, a really good power-endurance 7b(+). Enjoyed working this at the end of a day, felt solid on it, and was looking forward to giving it a good try. Returned a couple of days later by which time I had a proper cold and could barely pull on it. One to go back to if I'm in the area again.
Holy Hand Grenade (Cuttings) which administered my first ever significant finger injury.

Main issue this year is that I've too often avoided getting on things which might deliver a spanking, a much bigger failing.

2015 has not been a vintage year, climbing-wise and otherwise. Climbing didn't really start 'til June due various reasons and then stopped again almost immediately. I dropped below 200 routes in the year and it's the first time since 2008 I've not onsighted an E3, though both Wendenstock routes required E3 skills. I've learned some useful stuff about looking after myself better and am putting it into practice. I've missed climbing opportunities and I don't have an infinite supply of these.nI'm going to try to not let this happen so often next year.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Andy W on December 26, 2015, 11:30:35 am: Pretty good bouldering year, but bit shit in many other ways. Ended in a flurry, selling my house and moving to the Pyrennees!

Top Three problems
Pit Traverse 7C Ogwen, N Wales
AWOL apprentice 7C, Tintagel, Cornwall.
Miko 7A+, Sintra Portugal.

Top three new problems
Madeleine Eats Cake 7C+/8A, Godrevy, culmination of long term project, scratching up an original problem (LTP Left) from some poor and lower crimps, might be hard!
Carousel 7A+ and sandman 7A at Treen, West Penwith, such a lovely spot.

Top Three Sport
None!

Top Three Trad
Seconding Cemetry gates and Cenotaph Corner, That’s all I did all year!
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 26, 2015, 09:36:21 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK

Spellbound, Churnet - great line with a perfectly positioned pop-for-the-top. Flapped my way up whilst being hosed with beta.
Walk on by, Curbar - over ten years since I first did the now-defunct original version. New feels a bit easier but maybe climbs better.
Western Eyes, Burbage - again, not a new tick but happy to do it a couple of times last winter (as a dad so get an extra grade or two).

Top three boulder probs, abroad

L'Artificier (direct), Rocher Saint Germain - highball LeDenmat slab on razors, amazing, dropped the top and everything.
Contact, JA Martin - fun, best conventional new tick of short but fun font trip two weeks back.
L'Abbatoir, Cuvier - never got round to this before, highly entertaining siege with the old monday afternoon club.

Top ~~three~~ trad routes/soloes UK

Good year this, despite a shaky start and limited days out.
Behemoth, WCJ - DT put the gear in, then slumped, BB finished it off, I should have seconded for the gear but flipped a coin and went on lead. Shook my way up totally unfit, just made it, mega. Will have to go back and do it properly.
The Cullinan, Lundy - second route on the island, in the sun, big audience, McManus made it look hard, was totally piss. Brilliant. Roaches E3?
Antiworlds, Lundy - Ben led the big two pitches of this, burrowing through guano on the first then off route on the third, but the quality shone through; astonishing, desert island route.
Widespread Ocean of fear, Lundy - I got the big pitch, no chalk, a bit damp, lichened, lonely, full on.
The Dog's Bollocks, Lundy - one of the best leads of my life following the good cop/ bad cop routine from Caff and Dan in the pub; right at my limit. Ben was kind enough to look a tad flustered on second.

Top three sport routes UK

Did one 6c down Cheedale I think, plus some top-roping at the Cornice to get fit for Lundy. Good, no time wasted.

~~Top three routes abroad (any genre)~~
~~Top three new route/prob put up~~

Top three winter routes

The Wayward Prong, Carnedd Dafydd - not great climbing but a brilliant day out involving cunning route choice and tricky navigation, lots of fun.
Une Journee Ordinaire, Ben Nevis - a moment of clarity as I actually took the easiest line for the first time in my life.
Minus Two, Ben Nevis - culmination of a brilliant three night camping trip up the Ben. Big route in decent style, it's about so much more than the moves.

Top Spankings

Less spanked by fatherhood and work this year, partly due to my acceptance and partly due to the wife finishing her degree. On the plus side felt my personal photography went really well in the first half of the year, took a couple that felt like new ground.
L'etrave, JA Martin - struggling to get going on day one.
M1, High Tor/ Vector, top pitch, Tremadoc - two E2s that were at my limit in July/Aug, shook my way up, just!
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Footwork on December 28, 2015, 11:28:47 pm: Top ~~three~~ five boulder problems

Best bouldering year to date so a bit tricky:
1. Hunters roof - all alone and with a sunset to top out.
2. McNab SS - a lovely day on the moors
3. Pistol Whip - so good I did it twice! (To check it wasn't a fluke)
4. Stu's roof - hardest thing all year
5. The Geminid trail - it's like setting off on a mini adventure

Top three trad routes/ highballs

1. Charming Crack - YYFY what a bastard
2. Battlecat - my kind of problem
3. The white Doe - what lovely features

Top new problems

Who knows if it they were done already (probably) but I really enjoyed a day with Will at Sigsworth climbing Wall of the Wild and The Oyster Catcher. Also repeating Will's The Cestrian was a relief.

Top trip abroad

Font in April. Ticked some classics off the list including La Baleine, Big Jim (and falling off the top), Carnage, El Poussif, Onde de Choc and Gargantoit. The trip down was an epic on its own and good company and amazing weather made it a great trip. Also the comedy value of our accommodation.

Top spankings

Jess's roof - a few sessions this year but walked away with soggy pads possibly mixed with shit
Bouldering on Limestone. My fingers just can't cope.
My shoulder. It's fucked. Rehab seems slow and it's been hurting for a couple of months. :'(
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Sasquatch on December 29, 2015, 01:19:15 am: Top three boulder probs, Home Area
Crouching Shark, Hidden Octopus
Deceivingly Sexy
Muffin Man Sit

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Gunslinger - Tahoe
Wild Pack of Family Dogs - Tahoe
Fun House - Tahoe

Top three trad routes/soloes Home Area
None

Top three sport routes Home Area
Harpooned - Dry Docks
Icky Thump - Byron Glacier
Black Pudding - Byron Glacier

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
None

Top three new route/prob put up
Crouching Shark, Hidden Octopus
Deceivingly Sexy
Muffin Man Sit

Top Spankings
Life stuff - New business, Daughter's Seizures and seizure study in Seattle, relationship woes
Climbing Wise
- The Oral Beast - injured shoulder on it.
- Spotted Dick Project - wicked hard and inspiring. Did all of the moves in two days of work. Hopefully will be able to link up next summer.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: AJM on December 29, 2015, 09:52:13 am: I started off thinking that this was going to be a bit of a crap list – I was out for several months with an A2 tweak, and in general I’ve not really been on it this year (see spankings). However, looking back through the logbook I realised that whilst it’s not necessarily been the best year there have been some gems out there.

Top three boulder probs, UK

Years around the sun – Cuttings. A proper route climbers boulder problem

Hoffmajeure, Portland Bill – good stacked roof action

In general I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the quality of the Portland bouldering I’ve done to date

Some random 7A at cragX with Alex

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Anything from Rocklands, really. Girl on our Mind, Feist, Vertigo, Manneurheim roof, Pincon d’Herbes Arete, Tiger Claw, oh so many others.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Sapphire, Swanage – the first time I managed to get my trad intimidation at Swanage under control really. Small victories, but it felt like its grade rather than like ohmygoditssoscarythisrockisterriblewaaaaaaa

Animal Magnetism – Lulworth. Sunny day, mates yelling beta – got it on the flash, hardest DWS to date.

Crime and Punishment, Trial Wall. On Ally’s gear, so a semi sport tick that could fit in either category. However, dead chuffed to flash it, hard to fight hard, some of the hardest moves I’ve done on gear.

Top three sport routes UK

Realm of Chaos, Wallsend. I like Wallsend. The route is nice and pumpy, no tweaky holds, my first decent route back after finger rehab, excellent. Way better than some of the sharp fingery polished nonsense that passes for classics up north.

Avenging the Halsewell, Winspit. Good stacked roof action.

I’m not sure there’s really been a third. I really enjoyed the sequence on Damnation Game I guess. Or I’ll double count Crime and Punishment above.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Gladiator, my hardest onsight in Kaly, or possibly DNA for the outrageous jug hauling bucket pulling fun.

Armada Sikati – fell off the last move on a greasy day but oh what fun it is.

Spasspartout – despite the spanking (see below) a fantastic experience.

Top three new route/prob put up
n/a

Top Spankings

I got shut down by a lot of things at rocklands, but a large chunk of that was finger injury related so not a true spanking

Main failure for the year has been of psyche. The combination of having to adapt to a post van trip world, having a finger injury, a new job, having to assemble a new circle of climbing partners, balancing my climbing with my wife’s (she is gradually becoming a boulderer), and just generally being really busy has played havoc with my time on rock and my motivation this year.

Wendenstock. For many of the reasons noted above I wasn’t on form – too little trad mileage, and the climbing I had done left me woefully unprepared for runout footsy grey blankness. I’ve got something of a score to settle – I want to go back and actually feel like I’m on top of things next time.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Stabbsy on December 29, 2015, 10:59:41 am: Strange year with injuries and lack of motivation to train, but started to come together in the second half of the year with a bit of trad mileage, some Moors exploration and a couple of Spain trips.

Top 3 problems, UK

Underhand, Almscliff - Injured my finger on this in December last year after not warming up properly. Good to come back in April and get my revenge.
Low-Tech, Brimham - Brimham continues to surprise me with hidden-away, unspoilt classics like this.
The Prow, Wainstones - First impression of the Moors following the new bouldering guide wasn't good, but it pays to persevere. Some good venues and great problems, with this being one of the best.

Top 3 problems, abroad

Nowt.

Top 3 sport routes, UK

Not much success on the harder things I tried, but quite motivating to see some new crags.

Top 3 trad routes, UK

Digitron, Craig Arthur - A crag I've been meaning to visit for years, long and adventurous. Great day out combined with Mannikins of Horror.
The Dangler, Stanage - Always avoided this as it looked desperate, but such a good route.
Earl Buttress, Earl - Probably my favourite route of the year, big holds and great gear. Timed to perfection, as my mate topped out just as the rain started.

Top 3 sport routes, abroad

With a combination of work and injuries, I didn't leave the country until November. Must do better next year.

Pina Disfruta, Poza de la Mona - A crag I'd written off after my first visit 4 years ago turned out to have far more to offer than I'd remembered!
Batacazo, Los Pinos - Just about did all the moves on the first time up, feeling very jaded with the sun blasting the wall. Surprised myself by doing it next go after the sun had dropped behind the hills.
Pere Flac, Bellus - Only F6b/+ but one of the best routes I've done for years. Technical and engaging without being hard. Shame the rest of the crag didn't live up such high expectations.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: the_dom on December 29, 2015, 07:55:05 pm: Quote from: AJM on December 29, 2015, 09:52:13 am
Top three boulder probs, abroad

Anything from Rocklands, really. Girl on our Mind, Feist, Vertigo, Manneurheim roof, Pincon d’Herbes Arete, Tiger Claw, oh so many others.

All pretty world class. Rocklands has, to me, a couple of great grade ranges: 6B to 6C, 7B to 7C and 8A up. That's a great selection in the 6C-ish range. Pretty much anything harder requires crimping.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: AJM on December 29, 2015, 10:47:02 pm: Quote from: the_dom on December 29, 2015, 07:55:05 pm
Quote from: AJM on December 29, 2015, 09:52:13 am
Top three boulder probs, abroad

Anything from Rocklands, really. Girl on our Mind, Feist, Vertigo, Manneurheim roof, Pincon d’Herbes Arete, Tiger Claw, oh so many others.

All pretty world class. Rocklands has, to me, a couple of great grade ranges: 6B to 6C, 7B to 7C and 8A up. That's a great selection in the 6C-ish range. Pretty much anything harder requires crimping.

Yeah there was a really good selection in that sort of range. There were a few I missed out on (roof is on fire, got put off by the drop by the start, orange heart I couldn't crimp so had to use a whack sequence, a few things like that) but a magnificent selection of problems.

It was our honeymoon and it turned out to be such a good choice - awesome climbing, spent time with some brilliant people, saw and did lots of awesome non climbing stuff, ace trip.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: r-man on December 30, 2015, 11:40:29 am: A slow year on the climbing front. Much of the year kerplunked by injury, then insect filming, then trying to get back into shape again. Still, it's been great seeing more people getting out around Lancs and the psyche is strong for next year...

Top three new problems put up (Didn't try anything anything outside my patch - trips were all wildlife related this year)

Bionic Harmonic - Sneaked this one in just before Christmas. Brilliant feeling to get out on rock again after all the rain, and actually get to the top of something. Two sessions this year plus an A4 sheet filled with beta time-travelling a session two years ago. Great heel-follow-hand shuffling, with a few unusual moves to add smile, then some compression-slapping to squeeze out a win. (Baffled why this crag doesn't see more attention, yet nearby Aqua Vista (limited esoterica) has loads of fans. It's got great rock, fast-drying, 10min walk in, problems through the grades.)

Starship Wilton Direct - A couple of sessions dedicated to cave excavation and boulder shifting resulted in not only making the original version nicer, but also making the direct no-footledge no-sidewall line possible. Good short, powerful stuff. Steepness on quarried rock is always a rarity. In some ways this was a consolation prize - it only took 20min to climb, but other nearby projects are still resisting... Maybe next year...

Turron Blando - Not quite as good as the others, but it's been a lean year... A satisfying launch from a gaston and a razor to the top. Having tried this two years previously I thought it would be seriously hard. Seems I just needed a different type of movement. It's ascents like this which keep you coming back to those desperate projects. You never know...

Top Spankings

The project - Many sessions. Some with a rope, some without. Some with psyche, some without. Every time I failed, I went home and dreamed up another idea. Which is odd, as there are so few holds. I don't know if I can do this one, but it would be amazing if it worked... Anyway, maybe next year...
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: fried on December 30, 2015, 02:39:10 pm: Top four boulder probems, Font.

Le Porte à Faux 5+ Roche aux Sabots - The perfect end to a beautiful May spring day, a realisation of how very slight body position changes make all the difference.

L'Angle du Serac 6B+ Isatis - Nice problem, good company and I hadn't even planned on trying it.

Le Surplomb de Leproux 6A Elephant - The only problem I did from my secret tick list in fantastic style with a grovelling belly flop top out.

Cristalline 4+ Rocher Fin - I've been trying this as long as I've been climbing in the forest, beautiful but hideously polished. So happy to get this one.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Luke Owens on December 30, 2015, 07:27:41 pm: Top 5 boulder problems (UK)

Hang 'Em High (7A) - Porth Nefoedd
Tempest (7A) - Tanygrisiau
Fur Trade (6C)- Porth Nefoedd
Made In Heaven (6B+) - Porth Ysgo
Le Grand Bleau (7A) - Fontainfawr

Top 5 sport routes (UK)

Cruella Deville (7b) - Castell-Y-Gwynt
The Screaming Skull (7b) - Llanymynech
The Desolation of Smaug! (6c) - Twll Mawr
Buoys will be Buoys (6b+) - Portland
Trad Free World (6b) - Portland

Top three routes (Abroad)

Angel Dust (7a+) - Ceuse
La Galère (7a) - Ceuse
Silmarils (6c) - Ceuse

Top three new routes

The Thing That Should Not Be (7b+) - Diamond
The Call of Cthulhu - (7a+) - Diamond
R'lyeh (6c) - Diamond

Top Spankings

Flowers for the Dead at Dinbren (again) - reached session number 10 on it and felt no progress over the previous 5 sessions, wasn't on it consistently enough to do it but it broke my spirit for redpointing at my limit back in June.

Anything on the Grit

Anything that involved power endurance
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: JackAus on December 31, 2015, 10:49:28 am: 502 climbs done this year. Up from 318 in 2014. :)

Best 3 problems.

1. 2000 Light Years From Home V5 The Fear Factory, Sydney.
8m rounded arete over hospital landing. First saw this back in 2013 when I fisrt went to the Factory. Its a huge imposing arete that looks over the walk in to the crag. Wanted to do it since the moment I laid eyes on it. Did it in 2 sessions, 1st on rope cleaning and working out sequence then 2nd months later back on rope to remember sequence then it went first go over pads.

(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00004/modified/770225844.jpg)

2. Rocksteady Teddy V5 The Fear Factory, Sydney.
5m slab that, once again I tried back in 2013 with no luck. Since moving to Sydney the Factory has been a regular haunt and after many MANY many sessions, this fearsome beast finally was conqured.............. Love it. No pic unfortunatley.

3. Single Female Lawyer V6 North Black, Canberra.
Ultra-classic compression arete. Great moves, great feature, great rock. Kind of sad that I flashed it.

(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00004/modified/749376480.jpg)

Best 2 problems put up. I put up a few more but nothing noteworthy... Both of these in contention for best 3 problems category.

1. The Circus V6 Flat Rock, Nowra.
3m compression arete witha very off balance pogo dyno to finish. Great little problem, 3 moves from a sitter and each move is tough. Another one that I found in Feb 14. And tried ALOT! Came back this winter with this being one of my goals for a weekend and did it. Still wasn't easy but a great problem.

(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00003/modified/686140656.jpg)

2. Pow V5 Flat Rock, Nowra.
8m slightly overhanging face climb. Found it back in winter 2014, cleaned it on rope and did the lower half over pads (wanted to do it ground up at the time) but never got around to finishing it off. Jumped on a rope this week, cleaned it again, did all the moves on rope then ticked it first go without pads. :)

(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00004/modified/806572827.jpg)

Top spankings.

DWS project.... Still.
Finally made progress and then I flipped off but then can't get that move again... :( Couple more days......

Rocket Man V10.
2 very low percentage moves for me. Some times I get unbelievably close and others it feels desperate.

Paul's Roof V9.
3rd go ever, fluked my way through the crux but dropped off because I'd dabbed earlier, then it took me another 3 sessions to get to the same high point in A LOT less control...
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Will Hunt on December 31, 2015, 02:28:25 pm: LET WAFFLE COMMENCE!

Top Boulder Problems, UK

Racing Raymond, Eldwick - Subtle, techy food for the soul.

The Dark Ark, Harmer's Wood
Warmed up and was aware that I was feeling good and quite dialled into CheshireStyle. Andy fed me the beta all the way and I floated up, not really aware of anything other than the moves (which I now have absolutely no recollection of). Dreamlike. Can't recommend it enough.

Colt, Anston Stones
Thought it was too powerful for me and was totally made up to do it.

Moon Madness, Great Wolfrey
A great Clarkey find. The last move feels sensational. The kind of climb you could do again and again and again.

Mark's Roof, Gardoms
I had it in mind to attempt a flash and couldn't quite believe I had done it. I think the reason this was so enjoyable was that it took every gram of energy I had. Had any one variable gone differently - a foot placement a few millimetres off/a hand slap half a centimetre short/a split second too long between two moves - it would have ended in failure...but somehow it didn't.

Underhand Extension, Almscliff
Hardest thing I did all year (on paper at least) and, in a similar fashion to Mark's Roof, it only just happened. The big cut loose on the last move with half a pad and no spotter will live in the memory.

McNab Sit Start, Lord's Seat
Hadn't tried this before. Its probably only 7B or a very soft 7B+. It doesn't add lots of difficulty to what is already a very good stand but it does add something. Similar to adding the extension to Underhand, doing the sit start is like adding umami to a dish - it doesn't change the flavour, just makes it more rounded. The sprinkles on the icing on the cake.

Top Boulder Problems, Abroad
Big Jim
Concept

Top Trad Cragging Day
A day out on easy climbs at a freezing cold Grey Crag (Buttermere) in early May. At the time I was freezing cold, the wind was howling, the crag was damp, the walk in had been a fucking slog, and psyche was riding at a low ebb. In hindsight it was great to be out at a great crag with a great friend. Highlights were Dexter Wall and Return with a Vengeance.

Top Highballs

Make My Heart Fly, Yeadon
I've done this at least 4 times now and it's only 5+/6A. Nevertheless it's crux, a very high step with nothing for your hands but the rounded top, makes me shit myself every single time.

Larkin's Right, Lord's Seat
Wanted to do it for ages and it did not disappoint. A sweaty fight on cruel hand jams.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5700/23789061180_630f96a278_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Cfaa6f)

Under the Awning, Sypeland
Ridiculous. Don't know what I was thinking. At the crag on my own with shit pads. The crux is pulling on a hollow flake, above a spine-wrecking landing, through a roof, to a damp green rail which I hadn't inspected or brushed, and convincing yourself that the flake isn't going to unexpectedly break. Why?

Walter's Rib, Great Wolfrey
The midges were swarming. So bad in fact that having walked in with lots of kit, I would happily have just walked straight back out - but then Dave started bloody climbing and I didn't have any choice but to follow.

The Verge of Tranquility, Rylstone
I can't remember much about the individual moves but I can remember it feeling insecure and demanding all the way to the top (I recall the top scoop was scrittly and not great). At the time it didn't feel particularly full-on but in retrospect it was definitely harder than Psycho, albeit not as high, though with a slightly slopy landing. A bit thinner and more "moorland" with trickier, less obvious route finding. Essential stuff.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5697/23456437114_99743281a4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/BJLnxy)

Doug-less, Roaches
Neglected but fabulous. Never seen a whiff of 6B. I thought it was worth 6C or 6B+ minimum.
http://t.co/bneXXxDMej

I'll Bet She Does, Simon's Seat
I assumed, like so many others, that this would be harder and scarier than its neighbour on the arete. The difference in difficulty between the two is stark. A juggy, positive romp a good way off the deck after one 6a move at ground level!

Top New Routes/Problems - of the 40 or so new problems and routes this year, these are the good 'uns.

Our Chapel, Yeadon - Lowball and thuggy. Better than it looks. Felt hard.
http://vimeo.com/126068545

The Cestrian, Yeadon - All the time I was looking for unclimbed problems, this is what I was looking for.
http://vimeo.com/128807773

The Arkenstone, Yeadon - Similar to the Cestrian. Maybe a little harder?
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/489/19198764633_bdfa55cb60_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/vfwFRk)

Black Annis, Sutton - The process was novel as this was the first time I'd headpointed something. The resulting route was worth a star or two for about 10 minutes before my partner cleaned the top out for the direct finish - at about HVS!

The Prodigal Sons, Harmer's Wood
http://vimeo.com/130748221

The Wall of the Wild, and The Oyster Catcher, Sigsworth
http://vimeo.com/131367794

Top Pissing About
Stag do trip to do Snakes and Ladders. The craic was absolutely without mercy - great.

Chickens Go In, Pies Come Out - Flared chimney cave back and foot traverse at Hen Stones. Busted a gut both trying it and laughing at it.

Top Spankings
Font. Terrible trip from a tactical perspective. Tried to do too much climbing each day, getting crap skin, and sore elbows, and ultimately not really getting up anything. Got close to lots of problems but actually finished very few. The take home lesson from this was that if you're going to go away on a bouldering holiday then don't treat each day like its your one day out a week on the weekend at home. Plan to climb all week, pick your problems and venues sensibly according to the conditions, hoover up the beta, and climb things quickly and efficiently. Ben had a very successful trip with lots of things ticked - I would argue his trip could have been even better (ticking Crazy Horse and l'Aerodynamite perhaps?) if we'd been more tactical - we can discuss tonight if you're reading this :)
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Wil on December 31, 2015, 04:57:12 pm: An injured wrist got in the way of some major goals and meant I didn't climb much for the last 6 months of the year, but still had a decent 12 months.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Grand Wall - Squamish. Was lucky enough to have a local belay me up and onsighted every pitch :-)
Zeppelin, Mother Carey's. Always wanted to do this and it was mega steady so I could just enjoy the experience.
Quietus - Stanage. Onsighted on my 30th birthday, after waiting more than 10 years. Glad to have onsighted it, but was the cause of my wrist injury.

Top three sport routes
I don't know the names of any of these, so just reminiscing for my own benefit.
Had a very soggy trip to Sicily and lots was seeping. I was obviously so annoyed I didn't put anything in my logbook, my favourite was a 6b+ on one of the seafront crags.
Did a great 10b at Murrin Park in Squamish, and Jeff and the Giant Reach was cool too.

Top Spankings

No Name Road - Murrin Park. My head was totally not in gear and I was lacking the fitness for face climbing. Total brain freeze on this one, despite none of the moves I did being that hard.
New Dawn - Not a complete spanking, but further away from it than I would have liked, then didn't get a chance to revisit. Next year perhaps.
White Heat near Mother Carey's. An E5 I'd spotted years ago and was always curious about. Made very slow progress to halfway and got a bit psyched out as the climbing and gear got thinner. Lowered off then toproped to get the gear, took quite a few falls even on toprope!

This all sounds like I didn't do much, but I had some great days out. Good trip to Pembroke at Easter, with lots of wishlist classics ticked. A day at Stanage trying to do 30 E-grade routes in a day (Did 24, 33 E-points before the pub called, including a lot of classics like Impossible Slab, Wuthering, Quietus, Desperation, Left Unconquerable, The Vice and more with about 16 different partners and more supporters :) ) Finally did a few routes on Kinder, did the Gates and the Corner on the Cromlech. Onsighted 7b a couple of times.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Fiend on December 31, 2015, 06:00:24 pm: Those Yeadon problems do actually look really good.

I couldn't get near the start of I'll Bet She Does during the mid-October heatwave >:(
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Will Hunt on December 31, 2015, 06:35:41 pm: Quote from: Fiend on December 31, 2015, 06:00:24 pm
I couldn't get near the start of I'll Bet She Does during the mid-October heatwave >:(

Start right hand in an undercut, slap up to a big flat crimp that you can use on the arête problem also. Left hand crimp the broken chicken head and reach up directly above you to another nice crimp.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Gus on January 01, 2016, 02:32:05 pm: Well then, time to get your psyche on! Loving the posts so far. I've been holding out for some good weather/ connies in the last few days of 2015 but that's not really happened.

2015 was pretty manic for me, and started off with me hobbling around on crutches after having a new f***ing hip!!! As such there's not much bouldering action (although if I hadn't slid off the top of "Brad's Rib" the other day that would be in there, can't believe I've not climbed at Stanton Moor before, it's ace!) I've substituted UK boulders for Deep Water Solo's!

Top three ~~boulder probs, UK~~ Deep Water Solo's
"Exultation" E3 5c, Stennis Ford, Pembroke: Wow, it's flippin' good this! One of the best in the UK at or around the grade. Done with a good crew of DWS addicts giggling and heckling all the way!

"Whiplash" 7c, Cova Del Diablo, Mallorca: Had an awesome trip to Mallorca with what seemed like most of the UK scene. Tried this before in super smeggy connies and it was pretty much impossible. This time it was in great nick and dead steady, but so much fun on a magical late afternoon session at Diablo.

"Morning Glory" 7a+, Tower of Falcons, Mallorca: More group DWS waddage. Ignored the "don't climb it in the sun" advice and got fried and very sweaty, but so much banter along the way. It ends up jumping in from a cave to finish so it seemed rude not to throw yourself at a spicy but doable 7c+, or a seemingly impossible 7b+. Either way your going in the sooooooouuuup! Can't wait to get back to Mallorca!

Top three (two) boulder probs, abroad
"Los Guerrerros" 6c, La Pedriza, Spain: At Easter I found myself in La Pedriza, felt pretty spicy bouldering only 3 or 4 months into my hip recovery, but I just had to do this one. Hurly burly overhanging scenes followed by a full on slopey rock over on my new hip. Super Satisfying and quite high so exciting scenes!

"El Meastro de la Luz" 6b+, La Pedriza again: Similar scenes really, not the best idea in the world to be bouldering but couldn't let a chance to climb in La Pedriza pass me by. YOLO!

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
"Killerkranky" E5 6a/b, Scimitar Ridge, Wales: As the year went on I started to get some serious Trad psyche back. I'd sacked off onsight trad climbing with my knackered hip for fear of getting myself into a position that I couldn't get out of, as I basically couldn't use my leg properly, but with better movement and strength coming back it was great to be back in the game. This was probably my third trad lead of the year and felt a bit weird/ scary, but it felt amazing to offer myself up again, and get back on the sharp onsight end!

"Yukan II" E7 6c, Nesscliffe: Did this just under 4 months after getting sliced open and re-hipped, with a bit of stubborn, blindly optimistic psyche! I head pointed it, as falling off at that stage wasn't really an option (I remember looking down at the runout and saying to myself "Don't f*ck this up Gus!) which I don't regret at all, it just demonstrates the importance of "right time, right route" when making these decisions. Felt ace to top out and tick one of my first "Gus 2.0" climbing goals with an E7 smash!

"Private Gripped" E6 6b, Staden Quarry: Every year I like to do at least 1 obscure route that doesn't see many ascents.They're normally on grit but this was mine for this year, and is like a grit route on limestone! Probably not the best route in the world, but one of those things you just do for a laugh/ a scare. It's a super bold number, with what I reckon might be a 15+ metre fall should you blow it. The pressure got to me a bit and I had to have a few internal words with myself to get through it. Think Guy got some footage which should be pretty funny!

Top three sport routes UK
"Wall of Evening Light" 7b+, The Diamond, Wales: An awesome route at an awesome crag. I was made up to get the flash on this, seeing as I was nowhere near fit. Big up to the beta providers who did a great job for me! I couldn't believe how pumped I was when arriving at the shake outs, and had to stay there for about 10 minutes to sort it out! What a mission!

"Laughing in the Rain" 7c, Craig y Biceps: My kind of crag!!! This is a bit of an obscure one in itself but a flipping' good one! Not much else to do at the crag of quality, but if you've got the minerals then go check this bad boy out! Was pretty surprised how powerful/ reach the start was, psyched to rattle it off quick!

"Phantom Zone Extension", 7c, Chapel Head Scar: Such a good crag, this was perfect timing for me as I was getting a bit bored of the Cheedale cornice scene, so it was great to go somewhere different and do some cranking. Still lots to do here so always keen to go back, if you've not been then check it! Watch out for ticks though!!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
"Fiesta de Los Biceps" 7a, Riglos, Spain: Wooop woop! Jesus this was such a good laugh with a well good crew! So much fun, no wires, cams, threads or faff, just chunky, super steep, muggy climbing with tons of exposure! I was actually laughing to myself for most of the time whilst climbing this. SO good, with belay selfies, lycra, and good times heckling the other half of the crew who were on "Zulu Demente" across the way, and vice versa!

"Clases de France" 7c+ BoveDOS, Spain: After madrid and Pedriza we went to Costa Blanca, and with some intel from "our man in Spain" Gaz Parry, we checked out this lesser known crag. A strong looking eastern European cat put the clips in and made it look spicy, so I felt a bit rude campussing through the top part (I'd spent the last 3 months not climbing, just hanging off or pulling up on fingerboards). When I came down he said: "Easy Money for you...." which made me laugh. I didn't tell him about my hip op ;)

"Aegialis" 7c, Kalymnos: This was a good one, I'd gone for the insight in 2014, when my hip was really bad but just thought "now or never." unfortunately the hip thing meant I couldn't twist in at all, so had to climb it all front on, which ended predictably in a big lob a move or two from easy ground. This time it was different, being able to twist my hips into the rock again felt great, I felt like a climber again! The only problem was I'd waited for the queues to go, and the route was in the full afternoon sun. It was boiling! about 8 metres from the top the world started spinning, and I started retching! I'd have to do two moves, pause and let everything stop spinning, then repeat. I just about managed to clip the chains and slump on the rope. Don't climb in the full Greek sun kids!!

Top three new route/prob put up
Nada, boo!!

Top Spankings
"Slap up/Fitz in" E5 6b, Hunstmans Leap: Hungover with the route in the full sun, doh! Put up a valiant fight, used up all my gear, got the the thread after the crux with no quick draws. Put a krab with a number 4 cam hanging off it on the thread, as that's all I had left, then promptly slipped off with a load of slack pulled up, unfortunately the weight of the cam had inverted the krab and I couldn't clip! Probably went about 20 metres! Good scenes!

"Vadage" 7c, Cala Sa Nau, Mallorca: Unfortunately the move I struggle with is about 15 metres above the soup, and I just can't figure it out/ reach. Had lots of fun trying this though, the last couple of 15m+ falls I don't even remember as I was so focused and psyched! It will be mine! I guess trying hard 15m above the drink is a good skill to have. (Speaking of trying hard above the soup, if you've not seen Theo falling off the top of "The Weatherman" on his Mallorca film, then so so. Outrageous!!

Right, that's it from me! Happy New Year! It's only the 1st Jan so hopefully plenty more of you cats have some good ticks and stories???!!

BIG UP!
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Doylo on January 01, 2016, 03:14:15 pm: Nice one flashing WOEL fella. Not many have managed that yet.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: bolehillbilly on January 01, 2016, 09:39:01 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK
Any listed below.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Duel Dans La Lune 95.2
Worth the wait to get a peaceful time to do this.
Les Frites (Red 7) Bas Cuvier
3 sessions over 2 weeks in Font to finally get this in May. I was so chuffed as it felt like the hardest 5 ever. It was only afterwards that I realised I’d done it before, onsight 6 years ago whilst doing some of the reds as a circuit.
Big Ben, Petit Bois
Could have chosen any here from a wonderful evening alone in the woods.

Top three trad/solo UK
The Roof, Crich Tors
Not the best warm up I’ve ever done but opened the way to some good highballs at a neglected venue.
Little Chamonix
Went up for a weekend with the kid (11) and did this together. He’s not really into climbing but he loved doing this. Great to see him get a buzz hanging out on the headwall.
Phoenix Nights, Hillcarr Wood
Not sure if this counts as it’s more of a highball, who cares, it’s a classic.

Top three sport routes UK
I only did 3 sport routes this year and they were possibly 3 of the worst in the UK so I won’t list them here.

Top three routes (kind of) abroad
Stuff at Roseness, Orkney
Beautiful evening with some good local company and wildlife. Low key routes in a great setting.

Top 3 Nemesis slayed
Banana Finger Direct
Tried this in 1989 and got nowhere, had a brief go on a family walk a couple of years ago, same again. Went first go on a sweaty, midge ridden day in August. 26 year project finally sent.
Manbearpig – Churnet
It’s obviously my destiny to fall repeatedly off the last few moves of every traverse in the Churnet so very pleased to get this one done back in July.
Les Frites (Red 7) Bas Cuvier
See above.

Top three problems put up
String Theory, Rowsley Woods
The longest roof crack in Rowsley! An almost classic were in not for the finish, but great fun anyway. Went first attempt by the skin of my knuckles, forearms, ankles etc.
Pure Merino, Maid Marion’s Mound
A lovely quiet spot down the road from RHS. Had a few beautiful sessions here before I worked out a way.
Palooka, Black Rocks
I must have walked, run, biked, pushed a pram past this block a thousand+ times before I realised it held this class highball.

Top Spankings
Ten Inch Zombies, Beatswood
Seems to get harder every visit.
Rouse’s Wall, Carrock Fell
An annual spanking event but getting closer.
Propellorhead, Churnet
So near yet so slammed flat on my back.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: TN080 on January 02, 2016, 12:03:24 am: Top three boulder probs, UK
Can count the days out bouldering in the UK this year on one hand, so not got much to choose from
Flying visit V9, Dartmoor – best hard problem on the moor.
Hacienda V10 Dow Crag – top recommendation from the Lakes boys.
Scoop Dragon Sit V7, Ogmore – not sure why but wanted to do this for a while. It is good.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Had a mint first trip to the states, could easily list 20 amazing problems, instead I’ll pick my favourite from each area.
Show of hands V11 Moes Valley.
Zen flute V10 Bishop, not heard of it before I went, reckon it was the best problem I did on the trip. Seven Spanish Angels on steroids.
Americana Exotica V10 Red Rocks.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
After a little break I’ve done tons of trad this year, so many classic routes it’s hard to pick 3. Nice to get back to old venues now I’m stronger.
Free the spirit E6 Sanctuary Wall. First E6 on-sight. Mega after work session, forgot change of clothes so was a shirt and trousers ascent. Almost used it as an excuse to put trying anything hard/scary off that day but in the end I manned up. Topped out in thunderstorm. That wall!
Darkinbad E5 – been on my wishlist for 10 years!
Wizard of Oz 7b, Berry Head – 800m sea traverse, 4hours. Epic fun.

Top three sport routes UK
Didn’t do too many sport routes in the UK this year, less than 10 I reckon as was mostly on the trad, but managed to rub a couple off the wishlist.
Fisherman’s Tale 8b - Nemesis and last straight up at the crag to be ticked, been on my to do list for at least 2 years.
Overnight Sensation 8a+ - Weekend in Yorkshire nice to do a catwalk classic.
Psycho Killer 7c+ - unfinished business from my youth. Cornwall’s best sport route?

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Hard to pick just three routes but…
Spicy noodle 8c+ Yangshuo – big goal, spent a couple months training for this trip with this route in mind. Amazing climbing, awesome crux, loved the process. Ticks a couple new boxes for me being my first of the grade and my first Sharma route tick.
Alix 7b+ Verdon – dream tick list tick, psyched to do it with Jon too. Fully lived up to my high expectations, could be the best route I’ve ever done.
Helos Rodeo 8a Kaylmnos – a memorable route…. That run out! 45m, 9 bolts.

Top three new route/prob put up
Only one decent FA this year
Spray 7C/+, Ansteys – highball above the beach.

Top Spankings
Devon Sent V10, Bovey Woods. 2016?
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Gus on January 03, 2016, 01:17:14 pm: Quote from: Doylo on January 01, 2016, 03:14:15 pm
Nice one flashing WOEL fella. Not many have managed that yet.

Cheers word! Was a bit of a skin of the teeth job but I was well psyched. The big fights are the best ones!!
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Fiend on January 03, 2016, 07:52:04 pm: Quote from: Will Hunt on December 31, 2015, 06:35:41 pm
Quote from: Fiend on December 31, 2015, 06:00:24 pm
I couldn't get near the start of I'll Bet She Does during the mid-October heatwave >:(

~~Start right hand in an undercut, slap up to a big flat crimp that you can use on the arête problem also. Left hand crimp the broken chicken head and reach up directly above you to another nice crimp.~~ Go back when it's not shitting boiling shirt off weather.

P.S. I did KillerKranky too, loved it, nice to do some hard moves on lead rather than just being pumped - proper climbing.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: shurt on January 03, 2016, 09:59:44 pm: Had funny old year, not got out actually climbing much but managed to find some motivation to commit to fingerboarding at home and its enabled me to keep route fitness up and I've seen some good gains all round. Routewise I'd done one 7b a few years back and nothing else similar. I got another one this year and got very close on about 3 others.

Top three boulder probs, UK
Little Prow, Ramshaw - got this pretty quickly which was pleasing
Sharks Fin Double Dyno, Ramshaw - Stone Monkey tick YES!
Boss Hogg, Robin Hoods - got this first go, lovely problem

Top three boulder probs, abroad
n/a

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Tom Thumb, Cratcliffe - I've climbed a lot of E3s easier than this. Amazing route though.
Palm Charmer, Rivelin - I'll be honest I originally went up to try Auto De Fe but was so pumped at the top of the crack I chickened out and did this, it was still great though.

Top three sport routes UK
Still Waters Run Deep, Cheddar - 3 sessions and not entirely my style (which is bouldery routes rather than more sustained stuff) was really pleased to get this.
Tada, Cheddar - not my first 7a onsight but first for a while. Bit of a one move wonder but fuck it.
The Minstrel, Cheddar - first redpoint, felt fit at the time.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
n/a

Top three new route/prob put up
n/a

Top Spankings
Bullworker, Brean Down - Fell off the last hard move about 5 or 6 times during a feel fitness and training high which I've never got back to. Was good for my confidence to know that I can operate at that level...
A whole slew of unascended V7 boulder problems which I got close to or got spanked on - Dancing Queen, Foals Chopper, Nether Edge, there were more. Not really been focussing on bouldering at all this yr.
Insatiable, Cheddar - not that close but not that far either. It could be a good thing to put some time into this year and only 20 mins away from me...
I'm Back, Rivelin - it was bitterly cold and couldn't really feel my fingers but its the second time I've not committed to the move or made any progress on it
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: jwi on January 03, 2016, 10:25:51 pm: Top three sport routes
3. La shabani, Pimaï, Briançon. Objectively speaking not a good route. A cheap glue job on sharp holds on top of a tottering pile of vertical choss. But great memorable climbing and just the right challenge at the time
2. La Porte des Champs-Élysées, St Léger. Utterly amazing climbing.
1. Los taquos de los dos rigolos, St Gery. One of the best sport routes I've done. A route couldn't be more my style, and supposedly well within my grade, but I still had an epic fight on it. Tried it 2 years ago, and had 3 days on it this year, not always in perfect conditions but still... Every attempt was enjoyable, even those attempt where it took me 45 min of fighting to find out that the sloper on top was too greasy.

Top three multipitch/alpine rock
3. Directa a la visera, Riglos. Sustained fun. New bolts, and no polish except on the last pitch (=last pitch of Zulu Demente).
2. Fat Guides, Taghia. Amazing climbing, destined to become a world classic. Last pitch is beyond perfection for lovers of sustained vertical lime stone.
1. Alix, Punk de Vergons, Verdon. A perfect day on a perfect route.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Duncan campbell on January 04, 2016, 12:31:29 pm: Flipping love this thread! Love hearing about other people's best of and remembering my own!

Top three boulder probs, UK

Desperot, Chatsworth - a brilliant controlled lash to the break brilliant to go from the move feeling impossible to having done it!

Europe After Rain, Rivelin - looks green and with a terrible landing but is actually amazing John Allen brilliance!

Small is Beautiful, Burbage North - Really fun not too high but high enough to be a little spicy and give the problem length. another Allen gem

Top ~~three~~ five trad routes/soloes UK - this is difficult!!

Right Wall, Cromlech - a 5 year dream come true. special memory of looking down at the final runout from the jugs at the end!

Ordinary Route, Main Cliff - brilliant day leaving Sheff at 9am getting to Big G, having a great time with The Champ AKA Michaela Tracy and then topping out in rain, before driving back to Sheff in time for last orders at the Union. The look of dismay on everyone's faces when they asked where we had been made the beer taste even better!

Deja Vu, Great Zawn, Bosigran - Just brilliant climbing, bold intimidating and the Crevasse Jump to get in is just ludicrous!! Great long weekend with Rob Greenwood getting spanked on classics!

The Promised Land/Hallowe'en Fair Head - both absolutely amazing routes with main pitches that just feel like they go on forever!!

Warpath Rhoscolyn - first E5 of the year and although not the hardest I got really flash pumped due to not warming up and so nearly fell off clipping the peg! Great punk rock scenes in the car on the way home with GuyVG!

Top three sport routes UK

Obsession, Malham - amazing! Love this style of crimpy gnarly climbing.

Cry of Despair Cheedale Cornice - 6 long bloody sessions but in fairness its a great route though if I hadn't done it that last session it would have been a spanking!

Space Race, Malham - got a bit spanked by this last year when I tried it with a friend. this year it felt like a very enjoyable path!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Le tresor du zebra Gorges du tarn - brilliant climbing on mostly good holds but steep and nicely spaced bolts!

Une colonne derrière les verrous Gorges du tarn - amazing (soft) 7b corner looked like something out of Gogarth. As soon as I saw it I knew I had to climb it!

Per tudadis El Falco - brilliant long wall climb after a short period of not climbing too well this was when I felt like I began climbing well again on the last day of the year.

Top Spankings

last autumn/winter's weather - sucked the life out of me!!

The Crevasse Jump - Great Zawn, Bosi. Second time round (after Deja Vu) I fractured my heel on the jump. after climbing out and hobbling back to the count house thinking it was bruised. the next day i found out not. que a month of work. woops :/

Here's hoping 2016 is just as good for everyone!!
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: cheque on January 04, 2016, 01:50:12 pm: At risk of repeating myself (and everyone else) I love this thread.

Top three boulder probs, UK

Struggling to fill this one out as I did a fair bit of UK bouldering this year but barely topped anything decent (and new to me) out!

Monk's Wall Traverse (my extra long version eliminating the big footledges), ~6A for the short version, route 6b+ for this?, Pleasley Vale I got my fitness back on this at the start of the summer, allowing myself an hour once a week during the editfest that was May and July. At first it was dispiriting agony, by the end I could do it 5 times in a session.

Hush, VS (3+?), Black Rocks 16:53 on here (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/stonnis/) It's really a route (only 'cos it doesn't have a landing) but it feels like a boulder problem and I had to have at least one thing from Black Rocks! "Found" this in Spring and quickly added it to my little circuit. One of those you always go round and do again straight after.

Wall of Horrors Start, 6A+, Almscliff Class. "Just" need the balls to lead the route now. :look:

Top three boulder probs, abroad

First time I can fill this section in! Lost my Font cherry in March with an amazing trip- two punters tooling round Font getting spanked on easy circuits and whooping with delight and disbelief every time we topped something over 5 out. Cool temps with no rain all week.

Code Secret (white 36), 6B, Isatis This slabby arete thing took my lanky mate three tries with four foot moves- you can more than double both those figures for me. Really satisfying.

Le Nez (Black 10), 6A, Cuvier Had a bit of an epic trying to top this thing out. Lovely juggy moves then mantle-a-tortoise business. They always seem higher when you're on them, don't they? :look:

Gamme Diatonique (Baltic Blue 11), 5, Apremont An ultra-sketchy high traverse, a bit like the Brain at Curbar, but with no discernible holds whatsoever. I had a bit of a meltdown, shouting "What the fuck Tom?!" as I teetered across. Flash. 8)

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Bosigran Ridge, Diff, Bosigran Drove 7 hours down to Conwall for the first time ever, got out of the car and went straight down to climb this without really knowing how you get onto the ridge or what state the tide was in. First time I'd climbed whatever I wanted to for months. Absolutely awesome. I kept needlessly going to the very highest bits of the ridge, stopping and looking back down to make it last longer.

Little Brown Jug, VS, Bosigran Top stuff, great rock and positions (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=153524) like all the stuff I climbed down there. "Ideas above it's station" Climbed with a guy I'd been hooked up with on the BMC weekend who was only just up to seconding it! Used my skill of missing out the gear before the crux and making it needlessly scary as well.

Hearse Arete, E1, Gardoms The only extreme route I led this year! Wanted to do this for ages. It probably wouldn't make the list in another year but still good.

Top three sport routes UK

Clarion Call, 7a, Cheedale Cornice I'd wanted to do this for ages, even more so since my mate told me it was too hard for me a couple of summers ago (he was right). Nice variety of moves and feels spicier than it is. I don't think I've ever wanted to do a sport route so much (I've certainly never yelled so much when I've fallen off one)- it got in my head a bit and I took a session longer than it really should have but still really pleased. Had a great summer on Peak lime, much better than my routes tally suggests. I think I enjoyed "the process" a bit too much really.

Free and Even Easier, 7a+, Malham New grade! :dance1: Pleased with how quickly I did it too- one session working it with Shark's beta (probably the key) and another quiet day off work doing it second redpoint.

Rubicon, 7a, Rubicon Just over a week after starting sport climbing again I unexpectedly got back into the 7s with this weird little thing. Felt so good heaving over onto the big finishing ledge.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

All from my Arkansas trip, all sport.

Cotton Candy, 5.6, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch This is a slightly off-vertical rib thing with juggy chickenheads (http://www.mountainproject.com/images/77/54/107547754_large_a6b794.jpg) that start huge and end up ridiculous. It's also the last route of the 100 we climbed in 24 hours at Horseshoe Hell and I will therefore never forget it.

Sanctified, 5.10c, Stack Rock Super-photogenic (https://www.mountainproject.com/images/45/17/108084517_large_143529.jpg) (wait for my upcoming film!) steep jughaul up a freestanding pilar at the most remote crag I've ever climbed on. I wanted to do this after seeing pictures before I went. Bittersweet memories as it's the last route I did out there.

Crimp Scampi, 5.10d, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Another one I wanted to do from reputation. Beautiful orange rock, nasty sandstone crimps (https://www.mountainproject.com/images/32/74/107503274_large_3e311a.jpg) (on the crux at least)- made it up just in time to beat the sun!

Top Spankings

Martial Music, 7a+ Cheedale Cornice I know I was fit and strong enough to do this but I just kept falling off in unexpected places on the session when I should have done it (last one at the Cornice for the year).

Virtually everything, 5+ and above and a fair few below that, Font "What is wrong with French people?"

The Show Me State, 5.12b, Stack Rock Arkansas
This (https://www.mountainproject.com/images/11/53/107951153_large_4b0bfe.jpg) was my big aim (apart from 24HHH) for my trip but it just didn't work out- too hard for one session, particularly not on the last day of the trip. I'd also really underestimated how exposed it is! Psyched just to have given it a blast though.

Bring on 2016! :punk:
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: BrutusTheBear on January 04, 2016, 08:07:15 pm: Nice to see some South Westerly stuff getting some attention.

Top 3 Boulder Problems UK

Flying Visit 7c - Honeybag Tor - Dartmoor. Rarely repeated James Pearson problem, had a few local repeats at the back end of summer. I concur with TN080, one of the best of any grade on the moor, aesthetic feature and great moves. Should be on your list if you're in the area.

Twister SDS 7c - Lynmouth East - Exmoor Coast. Did the FA of the stand 11 years ago, have dabbled over the years and finally did the proper sit this year.

The Butcher Baker 7a - Lustleigh Cleave - Dartmoor. I reckon this is the best of two brilliant problems on this boulder courtesy of Macca. The boys have been busy and there are lots of new quality problems to be had in the Cleave (if you can find them!).

Not been abroad this year.... Had one days DWSing.

Top 2 DWSs in the Shire.

Arapiles Oh Arapiles 7a+ - Great fun and a flash for me.

Once a Dogger 7b+ - Next door to AOA and even better, very memorable 'out there' ascent in the dark with flood lights.

Top 2 new problems put up.

Oompah Loompah 6c - Lustleigh Cleave - Sit start, slap to lip off poor crimps. Not a king line by any stretch of the imagination.

Ephemeral 6b+ - Lynmouth very far East (start of Sillery Sands) - Spied this stepped out arête a long time ago, normally has an horrendous landing beneath. Found it with a nice flat pebble landing in the summer.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: abarro81 on January 04, 2016, 08:39:20 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK
Total Addiction - one from the Spring training season; fun weekend working through the links at Roche. Made all the better by the fact I used a knee.
Keen Roof - took forever (and a finger injury) to find a sequence with enough cheating that I could do it. Turns out I shouldn't have gone back to it and should have been resting my finger extensively (see top spankings). Still, very nice to get it wrapped up after many many failures on it.
Corridors of Power - convinced by Ella to try to flash it, tried hard, got lucky. Reminds me of a great weekend at the start of something good too :)

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Nada

Top ~~three~~one trad routes/soloes UK
Rap, Gogarth - soloing this was the highlight of my one trad weekend of the year. Good for the soul, cheers gvg.

Top ~~three~~four sport routes UK
Progress - classic British shizzle, psyched to do it quick. Glad I'm tall for this one!
Freakshow - destined to become a modern classic, very Euro. A brilliant addition to Yorkshire. Really enjoyed gettin back on the Yorkshire sport scene this year!
Bat Route - Malham isn't my fave, but even I can't claim this is shit. Again, really enjoyed the Malham scene this Spring.
Mandela - not super hard but a memorable flash questing into that roof with 21st century (facebook) beta (cheers Paul B and Ally S)

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Era Vella - Fuck yeah bitches. What a wall, what a route, what a siege! For 6 months this route was basically the focus of my life.
La Trencatranques - Good last day to the trip, nice to onsight something hard after all the redpoint focus! Pumpy thugging on good holds, just my bag.
Meconi - tufa bridging, humping, thrutching weirdness. Very funky and fun!

Top three new route/prob put up
Still a parasitic leach. Got eyes on a proj though it'll have to wait until 2017 as I'm out of the country for sport season next year...

Top Spankings
Keen Roof - it gave me the most debilitating/restricting finger injury I've ever had.
Northern Lights - It's fuckin' hard and it tweaked my pulley. One day I will have my revenge...
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: SA Chris on January 05, 2016, 09:30:55 am: Quote from: Will Hunt on December 31, 2015, 06:35:41 pm
Quote from: Fiend on December 31, 2015, 06:00:24 pm
I couldn't get near the start of I'll Bet She Does during the mid-October heatwave >:(

Start right hand in an undercut, slap up to a big flat crimp that you can use on the arête problem also. Left hand crimp the broken chicken head and reach up directly above you to another nice crimp.

I managed the start once when I was there with just a spotter, but bottled the top and downclimbed. Be nice to get back on it again with a couple of decent pads.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Will Hunt on January 05, 2016, 10:22:38 pm: Quote from: SA Chris on January 05, 2016, 09:30:55 am
Quote from: Will Hunt on December 31, 2015, 06:35:41 pm
Quote from: Fiend on December 31, 2015, 06:00:24 pm
I couldn't get near the start of I'll Bet She Does during the mid-October heatwave >:(

Start right hand in an undercut, slap up to a big flat crimp that you can use on the arête problem also. Left hand crimp the broken chicken head and reach up directly above you to another nice crimp.

I managed the start once when I was there with just a spotter, but bottled the top and downclimbed. Be nice to get back on it again with a couple of decent pads.

Well then what are we waiting for?

I just noticed I got my left and right mixed up once in that post above. I've done that before on here which is unusual. You'll have you figure out which word is incorrect which will be fun.

The middle line is a romp once you're off the floor. The left arête gets done more as it looks less intimidating but it's a whole different animal. Technical Font 6C, hard moves a good distance off the deck, never quite all over till you're at the top (unless you take the left hand escape route which only becomes available after doing the high, hard moves). High steps and insecure hand matches. Incomparable.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: i_a_coops on January 07, 2016, 04:50:53 pm: Foreign sport
Les Colonnettes (Ceuse)- I get why people hate the start boulder but I actually thought it was pretty satisfying!
Machoire d'Ane (Ceuse)- the word 'immaculate' gets overused but hey
Enty Prise (Buoux) - holdless frictionless arete-ness goodness
Le Philanthrope (Les Dentelles)- I think this is what they call a 'major route' in Euroland, and the hardest 7a in the world.

UK sport
Mustard Custard (LQP)- best limestone slab in the country?
Threadbare (Torbryan) - Long term nemesis!
Gin Palace (Vivian)- Best frictionless chimney/thrutch/crack-fest in the universe

Trad
The Jackal (Wintours Leap)- proper multi pitch adventure crag!
Loculus Lie (Roaches)
Already Gone (Avon) Not as good a route as Lost Illusions but more memorable as my first (and hopefully last) accidental E6 onsight, I thought I was on Them. Lowered off making loud noises about dangerous sandbag E3s!

DWS
Strangers In Paradise (Cala Barques)- Dosage tickage
Smash It In (Cala Barques) - had a right battle on this, lots of blood. Epic swim through into the Grotto afterwards.
Whiplash (Diablo)- Easy with good beta, thanks Gus!
Once A Dogger (LQP)- so good I'd probably have driven back down to Torquay even if I hadn't needed to even the score with Remus

Long routes

Quarryman (Twll Mwr) - YYFY

Mazeaud/Yannick/M.Mesmaecker (Aig. du Midi) - bit of a 'Triple Indirect', i.e. we got lost. Wild
Oitavo Passageiro - 400m of alternating aid/trad/sport on the big face of the Corcovado. The 'aid' turned out to mean 'do desperate boulder problems to mantel and rock over onto p-bolts (on an 88 degree slab, with no other holds) then jump clip the next bolt, then repeat that process for a rope length'. Pitch 8 might have been the best pitch of climbing I've ever done (gently overhanging sweep of golden juggy granite with massive runoutes between big bolts) and pitch 9 might have been the worst (Hard Full Of Hornets crack climbing). Topping out at Jesus' feet and getting mobbed by tourists after 12 hours on the wall was surreal!

Via Franco Braziliera (Pedra do Sino)- Even moderately jungly jungles are hard. Got lost on the approach, spent 24h covering 2km, ran out of water, didn't make it to the next water source, had to bivouac on 70 degree hillside surrounded by carnivorous pitcher plants, then had to boil the digestive juices from those plants to make tea (which was gross). Wanted to try and free it but gave up and started French-freeing/full aiding about halfway up due to the nature of the rock being too much like overhanging weetabix, despite a valiant effort at hammering in pegs while hanging on crimps. Got to trundle a microwave sized block while hanging one armed from a fist jam on the lip of a 200m overhang - best Cliffhanger moment ever!

Spankings
Aigulha do Diabo (Pedra do Sino) - Couldn't find the base of the wall we wanted let alone the route, did some bushwhacking, settled on doing the F3+ easy route to the top, backed off because it was too hard and too scary (3+ chimneying is very, very scary when you can only just span the gap and there is only one bolt every 20 metres)

Eclipso Occulto (Pedra do Sino)- got to the lip of a 200m overhang after nearly 9 hours of tradventuring only to be turned back by about 2m of vertical, filthy rock before it slabbed out a bit and started having lots of cracks in it again. To make it worse that section had bat hook holes drilled but we'd left all our hooks behind to save weight! Still probably the best I've ever climbed, aid climbers leave bolts in really bad places for free climbing it turns out (i.e. at the only places where there aren't nice downwards pointing holds that you could clip off....)
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: 205Chris on January 10, 2016, 03:48:51 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK

Master Kush, Rivelin. A (relatively) modern classic, the crux succumbing to a rather satisfying leg sweep move to generate the momentum required to hit the lip.

Vitruvian Man, Trowbarrow. Always fancied the look of this problem. I had 3 days off work and spent the first two getting shut down in the Lakes and lugging my pads up too many hills. I decided to bail out early but swing by Trowbarrow for a look at Vitruvian Man, never thinking that I'd tick it in a session given my performance over the previous couple of days.

The Pinch, Cragx. Premium gritstone conditions never really arrived at the end of 2015, however the limestone was still holding out against the weather. I managed to get many a decent session in at cragx when all others were heading indoors and ticked it late on in November. Looking at my diary my last cragx session was 6th December! Long live the lime!

Top four boulder probs, abroad

Pirouette Cacaouette, Font - A proper desert island boulder. Hidden in the forest away from it all is this lone prow with a bit of everything, pinches, crimps, slopers, heels plus at that perfect height that you need still need to keep it together at the top.

Surprise de Chef, Ailefroide - First visit to Ailefroide and I was a bit disappointed with the bouldering to be honest. It was far warmer than usual at the time of year which meant early starts to get good conditions. The highlight though was the classic of the area. I wasn't sure if it would happen but on the penultimate day of the trip I stuck the dyno and committed to the top, luckily to be rewarded with a solid crimp right where you need it.

L'Angle Parfait and L'Angle Plus Que Parfait, Font. What a pair of problems, both climbed in the same session. I think it took 4 sessions over a couple of trips to climb L'Angle Parfait, whereas it's sister went in about 4 attempts. I know Misericorde gets touted as the best arete in Font but it's going to have to be pretty darn good to beat this pair. Hopefully I intend to find out this year.

Top two sport routes UK

Another vintage cornice season (best for a long time?). I didn't get involved with the cornice til I was back from the Alps in August which meant it felt like a gamble how long the season would last, luckily it lasted long enough for:

Nemesis - I'd wanted to do this route ever since I saw the classic photo of Ru one arming his way up it. I was a bit intimidated as when I first started climbing at the cornice there was usually a wad hanging off the third bolt struggling to make progress and I'd heard rumours the start was Font 7C. Luckily the rumours about the difficulty were just that and armed with perfect beta from Stone it slowly came together. I'd prepared myself for a siege but it only took 4 sessions in the end. This was at the end of August so I decided to roll the dice and gamble on the cornice staying dry for:

Bricktop - So it turns out the crux of this route is still the start of Nemesis and I managed to do all the moves on the headwall the same day I clipped the chains on Nemesis. Linking it however proved much more of a battle. 3 sessions after climbing Nemesis I fell off the penultimate move and the following session I was going backwards. I took three rest days and ticked it just before my birthday for my first 8b.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: cofe on January 10, 2016, 07:31:21 pm: Quote from: 205Chris on January 10, 2016, 03:48:51 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Master Kush, Rivelin. A (relatively) modern classic, the crux succumbing to a rather satisfying leg sweep move to generate the momentum required to hit the lip.

Monster year Chris! Leg sweep on Master Kush like this?

https://vimeo.com/116773168
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: 205Chris on January 10, 2016, 07:50:43 pm: Quote from: cofe on January 10, 2016, 07:31:21 pm
Quote from: 205Chris on January 10, 2016, 03:48:51 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Master Kush, Rivelin. A (relatively) modern classic, the crux succumbing to a rather satisfying leg sweep move to generate the momentum required to hit the lip.

Monster year Chris! Leg sweep on Master Kush like this?

Thanks Cofe. That's the magic beta. Seems to give you momentum and help kill the swing.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: cofe on January 10, 2016, 07:52:47 pm: Word. Before I try it like this, can you just confirm you haven't climbed Font 8C?
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: 205Chris on January 10, 2016, 08:38:01 pm: Quote from: cofe on January 10, 2016, 07:52:47 pm
Word. Before I try it like this, can you just confirm you haven't climbed Font 8C?

Not unless you're handing out some serious upgrades in PDB v3 I haven't ;)
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: El Mocho on January 11, 2016, 11:00:03 am: Been a bit of a mixed year - had a 4 month break from climbing whilst in the USA (skiing every day for 4 months straight) and due to work (the little I do), family and moving house never got that much trad stuff in the summer...

Top three boulder probs, UK

Witness the Churnetness, Churnet. I know it's soft for the grade but I really didn't think I was going that well at the time so to get this on sight felt great. One of those times when you climb really well and naturally on the first go and it all comes together.

Mint Sauce, Blackwell dale. Horrible dirty peak lime. I got quite into this buttress for a few weeks and I think this is the best here. Cleaned what I could off the ladder but once I got through the start was left questing off towards the nearest jug - think I did a cop out Rwards finish.

Thumbalina, Churnet. Maybe a bit high for a boulder problem, done it before but the day here with Pickles was great fun. He had the baby along which made things more interesting, had a church group talking religion to a bunch of kids at the base whilst Pickles stomped around swearing under his breath. The highlight was Jase satching it up on the last move, after a few abortive attempts.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

The Farce, Yosemite. This was one of the first days bouldering after a 4 month break from climbing. Fell off high a few days earlier (on my own with no pad) and hurt my feet a bit on landing. Was gonna sack it off but some local we met said the top was ok. Last morning in the valley went to have a look. As I arrived a lass was packing up so I had a choice of no warm up but a pad to borrow or warm up but on my own. Went for the first option (now I have older bones) and was glad as the top still felt hard and would have been high with no pad.

Did some other stuff in Yosemite and Joes valley but not really much stands out.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Lundy was great fun, first trad holiday I have had for a few years. Hard to pick a highlight but did some route on some crag (not got guide) which I took a reasonable sized fall first go then got back on and finished it. I always like a good fall in retrospect. Considering it was a stag do we got a lot of climbing in.

Top three ~~sport routes UK~~ ski descents US

Lone Tree, Snowbasin. Skiing this with May and her Ski class was great. A short hike in then round to the top of this little gully. Quite intimidating looking down the top for the little one (feels more so as you are in full view of the masses at the top gondola station) but she skied it really well and controlled and then insisted we did it most other days out.

Runs off Lightning Ridge, Powder Mountain. Not the best year for snow out in Utah but a couple of days after the biggest dump of the season (and a blue sky day) we skinned up here (snow shoed in Mays case). Took a nice line down which we all really enjoyed. Was great to be here with the family - Kath had been a bit nervous about steeper off piste skiing especially when a bit more remote but she had got more confidence and really enjoyed it. May had been struggling in the really deep powder (there was well over 2 ft of fresh snow and she had been sinking a lot) but it came together here... great fun

Some steep narrow thing, Powder Mtn. Did this on my own after scoping it from top and bottom. Never seen tracks down it all season. First time was pretty hesitant including slightly dead ending myself and having a harrowing removal of skis, climb up a bit then reattach to blanks to immediately drop through what was for me a very narrow and steep shoot. Was more like down climbing than skiing. Did it a few more times including a much more confident run where I almost felt like a good skier.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Including a bit of 2014 here (was on the big holiday so it feels like last year to me)

Archimedes' Principle, Grampians. So so good. Perfect rock, great gear, looks really hard but is steady. Everything we did in the Gramps was awesome. Hanging out with some of the locals was great and meeting HB was a highlight, especially when he turned up clutching his beloved lap dog (some tiny thing) Imagine a burlier, even more tanned Ron Fawcett (including iconic tash) cuddling some little pooch with a pink collar on.

Half Dome sans cables. Multi day hike in and wild camping with family. The cables were down for the winter and the day we did half dome the forecast was for a storm by 11am. We got up early and were on top before 9.00 (May's first 'alpine start') and were the only people up there. The weather was perfect and the rain didn't arrive until we were back at the tents.

Leave it to Beaver, J Tree. I failed on this the first time I went to the USA with my mum and dad (round about 1992/3) and I was keen to see if it had improved in 20 years of climbing. Answer: only a little. Got up it by the skin of my teeth, including trying to jam my head in a horizontal crack to take some weight off my arms. Ended up doing that thing where you are too pumped to place gear so just run it out and then when the holds get a little better and you can stop (but not find any gear) you realise how far above your gear you are and how bad a belayer your wife is and get really scared. Loved all the history of all the routes at J tree. The story of the soloing exploits back in the day especially the Yabbo/Long one on this route are pretty full on.

Top three new route/prob put up

Full Empire, The Diamond. A route but the project start was essentially a boulder. Hard moves, weird body position and a sagging slap to a jug. Last move felt desperate in isolation so to do it on the link relatively quickly was great. I also burnt off Robbins which happens less and less.

The New Colossus, The Diamond. Petes route but I did it shortly after. One of the best stamina sport pitches I've done and right up the middle of the diamond. It has been a real privilege to be involved a little in the development of this crag, especially rewarding seeing so many people there this summer.

Top Spankings

Yosemite (mini) double. After a few days wandering around camp four with Jason, drinking beer and dissing the current scene for the lack of alcohol/drug consumption we had talked ourselves up so much we decided that on our 1 day of climbing we'd go for the 'double'. Luckily we had some sense so decided on Steck/Salathe on Sentinel then the East butt on El Cap. Based on our fitness and climbing level from our last trips to Yosemite Jase proposed an 8.00 wake up would give us 'plenty of time to do them both, we'll be down in time for beers and pizza with the family'. This wasn't the case. The Steck/Salathe is long, the approach is also long. The descent is long. There are also a lot of wriggly pitches, which although I enjoy them they are not fast (the Narrows is an amazing pitch) We topped out about 3 in the afternoon, with lunch and water waiting back at the car ('just a morning climb the S/S') and by the time we were back at the valley floor any idea of the double had long since evaporated. We did have time for a couple of beers sat on Derek's Bench thinking about friends we have lost in the mountains - it is pretty sobering looking down the slab pitch on S/S and thinking about Derek...

White Rastafarian, J Tree. I feel I am the kind of climber who can manage a V2 highball, apparently not. It took 4 or 5 goes, getting nowhere near the crux, for it to sink in that I couldn't do this. Luckily no one was around to watch me slink off back to the campsite.

Mutation, Raven Tor. I have never tried this as it is obviously way too hard. I did feel I got invested in Ryans failure. I had quite a few sessions providing moral support - on most of the visits I didn't even put my boots on preferring to commit 100% to offering 'advice and encouragement' to Ry. The battery fan on a hoist, pads saturated in chalk taped to the rock, double dropping laxatives, no drinking, no tabs... Obviously we all want him to do it but the failure has added to the myth (both the route and Rys)
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 11, 2016, 11:40:05 am: Nice write-up word.

The route on Lundy was Too Precious http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=122678
'More like E4' says Steve Walker.

J-Tree stuff is interesting, watched that recent vid of Romain and wondered why he wasn't pissing them! Would love to go.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 11, 2016, 11:41:56 am: Edit: Gib has done White Rasta, says it is piss.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: SA Chris on January 11, 2016, 11:45:51 am: I always fancied White Rasta, but put off now! Easier for the lanky (clutching straw!?)
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: duncan on January 11, 2016, 12:04:41 pm: Quote from: El Mocho on January 11, 2016, 11:00:03 am
Everything we did in the Gramps was awesome. Hanging out with some of the locals was great and meeting HB was a highlight, especially when he turned up clutching his beloved lap dog (some tiny thing) Imagine a burlier, even more tanned Ron Fawcett (including iconic tash) cuddling some little pooch with a pink collar on.

Golly. My memories of HB are mainly of him roaring into The Pines in his V8 Holden Ute (https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=holden+ute+1983&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi1yITL2qHKAhUKBiwKHS6qBkEQsAQIHw&biw=1536&bih=769), audible from before he got to Natimuk.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 11, 2016, 12:12:56 pm: Quote from: SA Chris on January 11, 2016, 11:45:51 am
I always fancied White Rasta, but put off now! Easier for the lanky (clutching straw!?)

Looks like it boils down to a reach in the vids.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: SA Chris on January 11, 2016, 12:14:04 pm: Might as well just take the tick already. Save carbon footprint.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Fiend on January 11, 2016, 03:25:22 pm: LOL :clap2:

P.S. Someone please post pictures of HB with a lapdog :yes:
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: Bonjoy on January 12, 2016, 03:08:51 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK
Infinite Suspense 7C+, Tideswell Dale – Great solo evening hit on a cold crisp spring day.
Crackless Bottom 7B, High neb – Quick 2nd ascent of a good new thing (not written up on UKB yet) just up on crag near The Beast. On one of those few good days around Xmas after seemingly endless rain.
Icicle 7A, Roova – Quality remote grit, very similar to nearby Slipstones. Probably the best of a good bunch of problems done that day.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Master of Puppets 7A+, Rocher D’Avon – Everyone loves a prow.
Satan M’Habite 7B+, Oiseau – Managed to get it done whilst it had loads of German pads under it. Another class prow.
Le Grand Requin Blanc 7B, Bois Rond Auberge – And another bon prow. One of a brilliant isolated pair in a newly developed sub-sector.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Crack of Gloom E2 5c, Roaches – Total struggle on a freezing gloomy day. Not the gentle re-intro to trad I had in mind.
Apaloosa Sunset E3 5c, Roaches – Cloud saucing.
Other than a bit of soloing that was about it for trad!

Top three sport routes UK
Titter Ye Not 8a, Two Tier – Not 8a with kneepads but a good boulder route nonetheless.
Laughing at the Rain 7c, Craig-y-Biceps – In the rain. Well decent, would be a good first 7c for anyone pushing that grade.
Kiss Me Arcy 7b, Long Wall – Forgot how good Long Wall is. Deserves more traffic.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Arafadam ten pitches up to 7b+, Ailefroide – Have never done bolted granite before. First route of more than two pitches in years.
100% Colleague 7a+, Ailefroide – Brilliant long single pitch route. Bit of everything, reminded me of Huntsman’s Leap
L’ Ceusien 7a, Ceuse – Random selection from a couple of days onsighting on the Grande Face. Must go back to for the multi-pitch stuff.

Top new route
Giant Haystacks 8b, Blackwell Dale – The only really hard thing I did all year. First new sport route (along with the 7c+ next door)I’ve put up in years. Very bouldery and took a lot of sessions just to do the move. I think it’s a great route and it should be great to see folk on it this year and find out if my desperate sequence is the only way.

Top three new problems
High Rider 7B+, Crich Tors – This is superb, go do it. Fairly big but the landing is perfect and the difficulty is over once you get the lip holds.
Elephant Hawk Moth 7A/E6, Crich Tors – Also mega and this time most definitely not over once you get the lip. These two would make a great highball team objective as a they’d both benefit from a few pads and some peer pressure. Great day out guaranteed.
Twisting in the Wind 7A+, Windy Knoll Cave – Proper high class esoterica. Be prepared for a ring of bovine observers above the hole.

Top Spankings
Candy Caned 7C, Squirrel Buttress – Just hard if you can’t reach off the good feet. Always annoyingly close but not quite there.
Black, Sack N Crack 7B+, Blackwell Dale – Stern.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: rodma on January 13, 2016, 01:16:04 pm: Late to the party as ever

Top 3 Abroad
Alta (always wanted to do this)
Extra Balle: Ditto
L'Ultime Secret (Isatis), proper pant pooing territory

Top 3 UK
The Boss @ Shaftoe
Monty Python SS: finally!!
Metronome @ Carrock Fell: pleased with my execution of this in general, the grade is less important, but it felt like i got the process right. ok so the grade is important.

Top spankings
woodwell, just woodwell. super shut down this year
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: haydn jones on January 18, 2016, 11:53:43 pm: Top three boulder probs, UK

Thumbelina 7A - Ina's rock
A fantastic day out with Dom, and one of the best buzzes I've gotten from climbing. Should be on anyone who's interested in highballing todo list. Will be back for Cornelius this year.

Mint Sauce 7C - Blackwell dale
This problem is Mint! One of the best problems on the peak limestone. keep meaning to post the video, hopefully i'll get round to it soon enough.

Rob's wall 7C - Eskdale fisherground
So the climb was 3 stars but what really made this make it to my top 3 was the area, just the most beautiful idyllic setting, so peaceful and tranquil. Was also the first time climbing on granite since I started climbing, and reminded me of the crags that I cut my teeth on (Dartmoor).

Honorable mentions;
Joker, Throne of Zeus, Stone Temple Pilots, Pump up the Power, Feeding the pony, Spartacus, Brock the start, and oh so many more I can't keep listing them.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

All from Albarracin as that's the only place I've been this year (apart from 2 days in font where it rained on the drive up/down to/from Albarracin.

Zombie Nation 8A
Simply perfect, hardest thing I've ever done possibly (boulder wise that is)? really struggled on the last jump move and feel there a good few times before sealing the deal.
(http://imgur.com/HwFOxMr)

Pinturas Buldestres (sit) 7C+
If your going to Albarracin, this should be on your top 10 problems to do list, along with the previous and next problem! the last dyno is just phenomenal.

Aben razin 7C+
It says a lot about the boulder problem when its the front cover picture of the guide book, and rightly so. Its one of the most stunning and aesthetic boulders in the whole of the area, situated atop a peninsula, there is only one way up the giant, sized block. It will always remain in my memory, after spending 5 minuets pumping out on the final mantle, before building the courage to drag myself on top, only to realise, to my horror, I couldn't get back down.This was promptly followed by 30 minuets of walking round and round on top of the boulder looking for the best dismount.

honorable mentions;
Zarzaparrilla, El Apeadero (sit), Titanic (sit), La Huella del Jabali, Garbancito (sit), Gitanic (sit), La Campana, Fight Club, El Varano

Top three sport routes

Mecca Ext. 8c
A good way to end the sport season. Glad to have put the demons to rest, after taking a bad fall last year on this and waking up in hospital

Barney Ragin' 8b+
The epitome of sustained wall climbing! Put up more of a fight than I was expecting and would recommend to anyone, along with the easier variant "love amongst..." who is looking for a technical challenge and not just pulling down on big holds!

Techno Prisoners 8b+
Adds three star (albeit morpho) climbing atop an already three star route! I can not recommend this route more to anyone who is not a midget. Another thing that took me by surprise was its length, 52 moves long and sustained all the way, I can attest to this having fallen from move 49 on one unlucky attempt.

honorable mentions;
K5, Love Amongst the Butterflies, Revelations, The Auctioneer, Rumble in the Jungle, Four Door Dostoyevsky, Agent Provocateur, Boot Boys, all of these I would highly recommend to anybody.

Top new route

Body Snatchers 8b+
My only new route of the year, and the first time I've ever had to place bolts myself. So was a good learning experience. The route itself is a direct finish to the already desperate R'n'P, from the "rest" on R'n'P sustained moves lead you into the crux of snatch which then becomes the red point crux of the route.

Top new boulders

Cave Slave 7C+
Extension to cave problem, starting as for ben's extension. busted out the tinfoil to be able to climb this one due to the perma wet jug on the back wall.

α (Alpha) 7C
At last, the glue held this time! Really made up with this one, should be on any peak limestone boulder list.

Blackout 7A+/B
Some really nicely sculpted hold (sculpted by nature that is not me!). I must admit, a little disappointed new beta got found and it is possible to do without jumping. The problem has become popular with quite a few repeats in just a few months after putting it up, and that made me feel good, just the satisfaction of others doing the problem and enjoying it.

Top Spankings

Devonshire Arms
Man this thing shut me down, think i had about 3 sessions just dedicated to this route alone after having done the links into k3 and powerplant, still didn't manage it, I just can't hold that undercut!

32
Having done the link from the 2nd bolt to the top on my first session(or was it second...) success seem imminent, 5 sessions of bad conditions later and I have tweaked a ligament in my knee, an injury that I feel still to today and must remain extremely cautious of drop knees.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: tomtom on January 19, 2016, 08:08:13 am: Greet year Haydn.
Title: Re: Best of 2015
Post by: andy_e on January 20, 2016, 01:06:44 pm: Blackout is ace even with the easier method!