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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: remus on September 22, 2022, 10:10:24 pm

Title: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: remus on September 22, 2022, 10:10:24 pm
Im trying to track down when Jerry did The Ace. In this interview it mentions 2002 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/jerry-moffatt-interview.html but then there's a UKC piece (purportedly from December 2001) talking about Malc repeating it https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119 so they can't both be right.

Peak bouldering doesn't have a date and neither does the stanage definitive.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Kingy on September 22, 2022, 10:18:05 pm
I think the Planet Mountain date is erroneous. The UKC article is dated, I don't see how that could be wrong as its the original article from 2001.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Teaboy on September 22, 2022, 10:34:14 pm
The UKC article doesn’t say he did the Ace but that he nearly did it. It’s not clear in the report but Simon Panton confirms it in the thread
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Kingy on September 22, 2022, 10:36:31 pm
I think the UKC article confirms that Malc got close to repeating the Ace in Dec 2001. Therefore Jerry must have done the FA  either earlier that winter or the winter before.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: shark on September 22, 2022, 11:17:36 pm
Climber (probably Keith Sharples) says 2001 here: https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dave-mason-repeats-the-ace/
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: 36chambers on September 22, 2022, 11:25:41 pm
2000 according to the significant ascents and dates in Revelations :smartass:
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: remus on September 23, 2022, 07:59:41 am
2000 according to the significant ascents and dates in Revelations :smartass:

Of the sources available Revelations seems most likely to be correct, though wouldn't put a little looseness of memory past Jerry!

Thanks for the correction on Malc's ascent too, misread the UKC article.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Nutty on September 23, 2022, 09:26:23 am
Peak Rock says 2001.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: remus on September 23, 2022, 05:35:02 pm
Good knowledge, peak rock is pretty meticulously researched so 2001 seems likely (maybe Jerry/Grimer made a mistake in the Revelations route list?)

I've had a trawl through the UKC news archives and there's no mention of it. There is a bit of a sparsity of items in march and april though so I wonder whether whoever did the news at the time was on holiday? Hard to imagine Jerry doing a new 8B in the middle of plantation would go unreported otherwise.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: cheque on September 23, 2022, 05:55:41 pm
You need someone with an archive of old On The Edge magazines. It’ll have been reported in there within a month of it happening.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2022, 08:01:31 pm
Good knowledge, peak rock is pretty meticulously researched so 2001 seems likely (maybe Jerry/Grimer made a mistake in the Revelations route list?)

Wouldn't be the only topo.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Steve Crowe on September 23, 2022, 09:51:42 pm
OTE 114 February 2002 states Malcolm will have climbed The Ace by the time you read this report.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Stabbsy on September 24, 2022, 10:24:45 am
You need someone with an archive of old On The Edge magazines. It’ll have been reported in there within a month of it happening.
I knew they'd be useful for something! It's in the March 2001 editions of both OTE (105) and Stumbler & Bumbler. Given the March editions generally came out in mid-Feb, I'd hazard a guess at Jan 2001 or earlier. There's snow on the ground in the pictures, but it reads like that wasn't the day he actually did it, more likely the day he went back for the photos.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: remus on September 24, 2022, 11:00:14 am
 8) strong work!

It seems feasible he could have done it in December 2000, so maybe the date in revelations could be correct? Shawn Raboutou style.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Bradders on September 24, 2022, 11:11:54 am
You need someone with an archive of old On The Edge magazines. It’ll have been reported in there within a month of it happening.
I knew they'd be useful for something! It's in the March 2001 editions of both OTE (105) and Stumbler & Bumbler. Given the March editions generally came out in mid-Feb, I'd hazard a guess at Jan 2001 or earlier. There's snow on the ground in the pictures, but it reads like that wasn't the day he actually did it, more likely the day he went back for the photos.

Any chance you could share these pics / articles? Would be cool to see.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Kingy on September 24, 2022, 06:08:13 pm
Jerry does the Ace in Stick It which came out in 2001. I don't know whether that was the actual ascent though or just a reenactment.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Jack Andrew on September 25, 2022, 10:28:36 am
I’m sure I’m revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Don’t know the date though
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: 36chambers on September 25, 2022, 03:39:40 pm
I’m sure I’m revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Don’t know the date though

Just flicking through it now, apparently he spent most of the winter of 1999 on it, but did it the following winter (page 206). It also reads

"One of them, a climber called Stuart Littlefair, suggested a different sequence of foot moves... ...Two days later... ...I had done it."

So come on Stu, when did you unlock The Ace for Jerry??
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: grimer on September 26, 2022, 08:33:49 am
I always trust other sources over my own.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Stabbsy on September 26, 2022, 01:22:11 pm
Any chance you could share these pics / articles? Would be cool to see.

There's limited info, but here you go.

OTE :-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1dykir55wmt3gnt/IMG_1879.HEIC?dl=0

Si Panton's Bouldering Scene (one of the few good bits of Climber back then) :-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gebjryx75unokr6/IMG_1880.HEIC?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/si6o6zeoxhe47kp/IMG_1881.HEIC?dl=0
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: remus on September 26, 2022, 02:39:42 pm
Thanks for digging those out  :bow:
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: andy_e on September 26, 2022, 03:03:01 pm
I really miss that style of news reports  :'(
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Stu Littlefair on September 27, 2022, 07:54:18 am
I’m sure I’m revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Don’t know the date though

Just flicking through it now, apparently he spent most of the winter of 1999 on it, but did it the following winter (page 206). It also reads

"One of them, a climber called Stuart Littlefair, suggested a different sequence of foot moves... ...Two days later... ...I had done it."

So come on Stu, when did you unlock The Ace for Jerry??

Yeah, I dunno. I’m too old to remember that far back now
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: James Malloch on September 27, 2022, 09:14:38 am
I’m sure I’m revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Don’t know the date though

Just flicking through it now, apparently he spent most of the winter of 1999 on it, but did it the following winter (page 206). It also reads

"One of them, a climber called Stuart Littlefair, suggested a different sequence of foot moves... ...Two days later... ...I had done it."

So come on Stu, when did you unlock The Ace for Jerry??

Yeah, I dunno. I’m too old to remember that far back now

The drop box link from Stabsy (Si Panton’s one) says that Ben Moon had a different sequence - two days later it went down.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Wellsy on September 27, 2022, 09:25:31 am
 Has anyone ever seen Stu and Ben in the same room?  :-\
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: 36chambers on September 27, 2022, 10:34:02 am
I’m sure I’m revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Don’t know the date though

Just flicking through it now, apparently he spent most of the winter of 1999 on it, but did it the following winter (page 206). It also reads

"One of them, a climber called Stuart Littlefair, suggested a different sequence of foot moves... ...Two days later... ...I had done it."

So come on Stu, when did you unlock The Ace for Jerry??

Yeah, I dunno. I’m too old to remember that far back now

The drop box link from Stabsy (Si Panton’s one) says that Ben Moon had a different sequence - two days later it went down.

"I was intrigued to find out about an alternative sequence that Ben Moon had been trying"

Who do you think informed Jerry of Moon's new beets...? It's no coincidence that a certain someone has Jerry as his UKB avatar #TeamJerryForLife ;D
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Stu Littlefair on September 27, 2022, 03:12:03 pm
Outrageous slander.

Ben & Jerry had been trying it via a completely bizarre sequence going initially with the right hand. They couldn't do the first move. I'd been trying it without success using the now accepted beta, I couldn't do the last move.

One day, Jerry was there the same day I was trying it... Not sure where the idea that Ben had new beta came from - that's not how I remember it.

20-odd years later I've still not done it.  :slap:
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: Steve Crowe on September 27, 2022, 06:16:15 pm


20-odd years later I've still not done it.  :slap:

Yet.
Title: Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
Post by: haydn jones on September 27, 2022, 08:10:33 pm


20-odd years later I've still not done it.  :slap:

Yet.

For sure. Don't give up. Look at dawid. He managed it after 20 years! Hero!
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