UKBouldering.com
places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: Will Hunt on September 03, 2022, 05:46:03 pm
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Some questions:
1. Are the pockets under the roof quite seepy or is it the humidity today that's making them gooey? I'm wondering how to predict connies for a return visit.
2. What is in on the left for Cheshire Life? I can only conceive of climbing it using little pockets on Burl One and throwing right to the pinch in the roof before going again for the pocket.
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1. The pockets can be seepy, generally a couple days of dry weather should be fine. They can be sandy and dirty on the inside which can become a bit sludgy if moist, especially after a long rainy period it can build up. Northerly or westerly winds can be handy to bring it into good nick.
2. I'm not sure what's exactly in or out, but I had a left hand in a decent roof pocket, then kept bumping the RH until it was in the jug pocket on the face. I did use some footholds out left as well sort of on the pillar feature.
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I didn't use anything that you'd use on Burl One. You're certainly not meant to stick your left toe on the big horizontal flake on BO!
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You're certainly not meant to stick your left toe on the big horizontal flake on BO!
Ah shit. Back around for me!
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You're certainly not meant to stick your left toe on the big horizontal flake on BO!
Ah shit. Back around for me!
Cam sandbagged you
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Does feel a fickle venue. The whole crag sandbagged me TBH.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBscMZbS35k
No idea about any Rules, this was the natural way to do it, happy to tick Cheshire Life Natural rather than the vastly inferior Cheshire Life Eliminate :yes:
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBscMZbS35k
No idea about any Rules, this was the natural way to do it, happy to tick Cheshire Life Natural rather than the vastly inferior Cheshire Life Eliminate :yes:
That was pretty much how I did it if I'm remembering rightly. I wasn't particularly fussed about actually going back and redoing it before, and now I'm even less bothered!
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Even that way of doing it felt hard at 6C (Knit One gets the same grade and is a complete path?!). Maybe I should come back when it's not 150% humidity and I'm not weak as fish piss.
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Hence my suggested corrections!
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Knit One was super scrittly when I did the FA and felt really insecure. I thought I gave Cheshire Life V6 - isn't that 7A? Anyway, I thought it was a great problem. Fiend's hand sequence in the video is exactly as I remember. Less said about the feet the better.
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V6 is 7A, and it looks like there are some holds shed under the roof, so it could well be that the feet-out-left would've made it quite cheaty for the grade. Feet arguments aside, I do agree it's good fun, like most problems at the crag.
I presume you did these FAs before Mike Adams came and put up all the big stuff in the roof further left, did you consider trying any of that at the time?
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I have never known those jugs in the roof to be totally dry even in good conditions in the middle of summer. Wise to be a little wary of them too, I pulled one off this spring and managed to miss my pads.
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I presume you did these FAs before Mike Adams came and put up all the big stuff in the roof further left, did you consider trying any of that at the time?
Yes, some time before Mike. I saw them of course, but I never got round to any making any real effort (don't think I ever took a rope there) and, like Rob K, I never saw them properly dry. Likewise, Stanner Nab; indeed, it might have been me that told Mike about the really impressive project wall at Stanner.