UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: Fiend on March 19, 2013, 11:17:53 am
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Thoughts on the smaller sizes?? Currently rolling with old skool BD Camalots (red and yellow) which I like the simplicity of but have trashed a lot of trigger wires over the years. Been looking at the options:
Metolius Mastercams:
+ good price
+ simple design
+ 4 cams
+ notched lobes
- don't do smallest size
- unsure about cord trigger wires
- blue 1 confusable with adjacent small blue Camalot to my panicked mind
Black Diamond C3s:
+ narrow head
+ protected trigger wires
+ do the smallest size
+ I like BD stuff
- expensive
- don't like 3 cams as much
- complex and not sure about long term durability
- no notching on lobes
Black Diamond X4s:
+ 4 cams
+ most similar to old skool Camalots
+ slightly better range
+ slightly lighter
- not out yet and god knows when
- expensive
- don't do the smallest size
- no notching on lobes
:-\ :-\ :-\
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Totem Basics?
+ supposed to be the better of the two modern versions of the Alien, which in turn seems to have been everybody's favourite small cam when it existed
- no really small sizes; smallest is currently ca. Mastercam #2 although the Mastercam #1 equivalent is allegedly due Real Soon Now
(DISCLAIMER: I have looked at them in a shop; don't have any & have never used one)
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Thanks but I'm only really interested in the 00, 0, and 1 sizes of these cams (and 000 if applicable). I put some consideration into Aliens vs Camalots a decade ago and prefered the camalots, I like the firmer stem amongst other things.
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Thats presumably why WC Zero's aren't under consideration?
I think the ridged stem increases the likelihood of the cam being walked even if its got a decent size extender on it.
On the plus side WC Zero's have a simple four cam design with grooved lobes in small sizes and are unlikely to get confused with your existing cams due to the thumb loop.
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That would be "rigid stem" :P
Don't like the feel of the Zeros at all when I've borrowed some. I've never had problems with smallest size cams walking, maybe because I'm always ramming them into the tightest slits possible.
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The notches on the lobes are purely cosmetic and do not impact on the performance of the cam. You should remove it as a factor in your decision making.
I always thought the cord on the Mastercams triggers was Kevlar but apparently it is Technora. I have no useful input on it's durablilty but a factor might be ease of replacement - DMM offer a service to replace trigger wires and slings (http://dmmclimbing.com/about/servicing-repairs/) but don't make small cams (why?). Do metolius or BD offer the same service? Google suggets you can do it yourself (http://"https://vimeo.com/22149655")! but don't think you can do it on the C3.
i liked the mastercams and would get them down to smallest size and a c3 for the even smaller sizes.
that's my opinion.
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Steph Davis has blogged quite a bit about cam choice, worth searching through that perhaps.
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I've got C3s and would buy them again. They feel positive to place. I not fallen loads on them (I'm a wuss) but they've always held.
I'd wait till the X4s come out and compare. Never rated the mastercams personally.
Other things to note:
- Obviously they will all work and it's really down to personal preference
- Cam lobes make chuff all difference
- BD are now owned by a complete bastard which may affect your decision, it has stopped me buying any new BD gear since I found out.
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I've got the BD C3s and the Mastercams as my smaller cams for the upcoming trip (so I'll answer more accurately in a month or so).
I bought these on the advice of a friend who has just done a similar trip, supposedly the yellow C3 was absolutely indispensable and they (the c3) simply go where other cams won't due to their narrow head. I've asked him about whether or not the plastic stem makes it too rigid and the answer was a resounding "no".
The X4s are going to be in a different price league to the other two from what I've seen and thus I'd write them off.
WC Zeros are horrible.
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The notches on the lobes are purely cosmetic and do not impact on the performance of the cam. You should remove it as a factor in your decision making.
I've noticed with the one C3 I own vs the two small Camalots, that the notches help seat the cam on the surface texture in slots/cracks. Sure they might not help with resistance to pulling out in a fall, but they do help me in placing them.
I've replaced loads of trigger wires, I've got bored of it!
Slackers, cheers, have just checked that out. Let me guess her sponsorship changed from Black Diamond to Metolius at some point? ;)
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X4s dropping at £65 according to their site. God knows when.
I quite like the one C3 I have but am not sure if the narrow head outweighs the 3 cams and price :devangel:
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The X4s are going to be in a different price league to the other two from what I've seen and thus I'd write them off.
C3s and X4s both have a list price of around 75 Euros over here, which should mean paying about 65 (=~ 56 of your British "pounds")
The "now owned by a complete bastard" factor does put me off BD though.
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X4s dropping at £65 according to their site. God knows when.
I quite like the one C3 I have but am not sure if the narrow head outweighs the 3 cams and price :devangel:
This is a lot cheaper than last time I checked the catalogue (i.e. when I was buying), I'll check again tonight at work.
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Mastercams are great but......
They do not like the sea! Keeping them functioning on a sea cliff climbing trip involves taking WD40 along for the ride. I once ended up on a remote Scottish island with a totally seized rack and no cam lube. Fortunately we managed to blag some of a local.
The camalots were still working fine. They had all got a dunking a few days previously on a badly set up Tyrolean.
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My experience of Metoliuses (Metolii?) is similar regarding siezing up in seacliff use; but they are in reality probably no worse than my WC Friends.
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The plot thickens :ninja:
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I've had brief plays with all these except for X4s and Aliens are yet to be beaten in my view. They just feel secure. I've not used the Spanish versions but both Totem and Fixe seem to have manufacturing consistency nailed which was the issue with the originals.
DMM ... don't make small cams (why?)
Welsh Aliens? DMM could call them 'Englishmen'.
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My experience of Metoliuses (Metolii?) is similar regarding siezing up in seacliff use; but they are in reality probably no worse than my WC Friends.
Not just sea cliffs i'm afraid, if you happen to not use your cams for four or five months like i did and forget to lube them up before this break, you will likely be rewarded with an hour or more per cam of forcing them to move again using pliers, warm water and lube. It's not as fun as it sounds.
Other than that i thoroughly recommend them!
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I bought these on the advice of a friend who has just done a similar trip, supposedly the yellow C3 was absolutely indispensable and they (the c3) simply go where other cams won't due to their narrow head. I've asked him about whether or not the plastic stem makes it too rigid and the answer was a resounding "no".
I would echo all of that. The C3's are brilliant bits of kit. Flexibility seems an issue when you handle them, but in reality the fairly rigid stem doesn't hinder the flexibility in a fall or mean they walk any more than other small cams. I was sceptical about the smooth lobes on some of the larger ones, but they do seem to 'bite' better than the Master cams (a little like the aliens of old)
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Not just sea cliffs i'm afraid, if you happen to not use your cams for four or five months like i did and forget to lube them up before this break, you will likely be rewarded with an hour or more per cam of forcing them to move again using pliers, warm water and lube. It's not as fun as it sounds.
I just used a bench vice, some lube and some metal blocks for spacers. Took no time at all. Make sure you get the physics right though.
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(a little like the aliens of old)
I've read this was due to the softer metal used on the lobes which would deform more easily and bite (which also means they won't last as long etc.).
The metolius mastercams need lubing more often due to what the pivots are made from, if you have siezed cams there's a pretty good tip on cleaning and lubing cams on the Steph Davis website.
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I have a double set of standard and offset master cams for my aid rack. Have some old aliens and one of the totems too. I choose the master cams first every time. Was slightly worried about the trigger cords , but after several walls, cumulatively over 100 pitches of aiding (and I'm an aggressive bounce tester) the cords are still mint. Conversely, have seen the trigger wire on a mate's totem alien fray through after very little use. I know you said you've already discounted aliens, but just thought I'd put it out there.
Have played around with a prototype x4 that a friend bootied in yosemite, and they look interesting. Might try them out when I need replacements, but I'm currently a big fan of the master cams and have taken enough lobs on them to prove it :)
Others seem to like them, but in my experience the C3s are :wank:
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My tuppence worth ...
I like the feel of Mastercams and have always been happy placing them, but I don't rate their durability. I knackered the springs on one with very little use and the metal on another started rusting despite never being used on sea cliffs.
WC Zeros feel kinda flimsy but I've bought a couple recently and they seem good, albeit that they're yet to get much use.
I've only used friends' C3s occasionally. They seem OK but I just don't like the stiffness of the stems and the feel of them (in contrast to the C4s in larger sizes, which I think are excellent).
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So it sounds like I should maybe get the Mastercams, or maybe the C3s, or maybe wait for the X4s if they're not too pricey :geek: :unsure: :blink:
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- BD are now owned by a complete bastard which may affect your decision, it has stopped me buying any new BD gear since I found out.
Why? Who is it? What's he done? Isn't it still this bloke?
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/blackdiamond/employees/detail/username/petermetcalf (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/blackdiamond/employees/detail/username/petermetcalf)
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- BD are now owned by a complete bastard which may affect your decision, it has stopped me buying any new BD gear since I found out.
Why? Who is it? What's he done? Isn't it still this bloke?
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/blackdiamond/employees/detail/username/petermetcalf (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/blackdiamond/employees/detail/username/petermetcalf)
Nope, that's the CEO.
This is the owner:
(http://cache.backpackinglight.com/backpackinglight/user_uploads/1273550116_25139.jpg)
Warren B Kanders (and his wife).
Black Diamond was bought by the Claus Coporation. From Rockclimbing.com:
This is not a story of Peter Metcalf accessing capital markets in order to further grow the BDEL business, its the story of Duff, Metcalf, and the original Choinard buyout group selling out and Warrren Kanders taking over. So who is Warren Kanders?
Warren Kanders is your quintessential cigar-chomping, boarding school/ivy groomed, trophy wife brandishing, fat, republican-douchebag capitalist-pig. His previous big score was a military contractor called Armour Holdings. With his business partner, Robert Schiller, Kanders built Armour through a series of acquisitions beginning in 1996 and sold it off in July 2007 to BAE, a much larger military contractor. This sale was right about the time that the DOJ and military began investigating a handful of armour providers for providing defective body armour to the military. Eventually Armour (by that time owned by BAE) paid some hefty fines for violations of the false claims act. Soldiers got shortchanged (maybe fatally?); Warren Kanders got rich.
Amongst Armour's many assets was Gregory, which BAE had no use for, so it sold it back to Kanders and Schiller. Now Kanders has always had more than one card in the game: in addition to controlling Armour, he controll(ed)(s) a few "blank check" companies. These are companies that are publicly listed but which have no operating assets and provide "shells" typically used to quickly bring a private company public. Clarus, 30% owned by Kanders prior to the transaction, is one such "blank check." Kanders/Clarus is buying BDEL for $90 million cash and buying Gregory for $22.5 million in Clarus stock at $6 and $22.5 million in Clarus debt. Supposedly the BDEL executives who are receiving employment agreements with Clarus are going to use some of their cash to buy stock at $6, but the only definitive mention of this in the SEC filing is that Metcalf is receiving options to buy 75,000 shares at $6.00 per share which will vest in three installments in 2012-14. Even assuming Metcalf purchases and retains all 75K shares, this is a trivial amount of stock compared to Kanders position of between 5.1 and 7 million shares immediately post acquisition (his percent interest in Gregory is unclear). Another way to think of the transaction is that Kanders is trading 100% of crappy little Gregory for a 30+% interest in and control over BDEL.
With 30+% of the company, Kanders will be, by far, the largest shareholder (possibly also the fattest) and he's staying on as Executive Chairman to protect his assets (and his business partner Schiller is staying on as Executive Vice-Chairman). Make no mistake, Metcalf works for Kanders and Kanders is in business to make money, lots of it, mostly by acquiring and flipping assets within 10 years (before the negligence or fraud suits get filed). His track record on safety?, his apparent interest in anyone's welfare other than his own?.... apparently not so great.
As for me: I think Kanders will make a lot of money in this deal; I think people who invest with Kanders will make some money, but a lot less than Kanders; but on the product side: no way in hell will you catch me buying safety equipment from a Wall Street robber baron.
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Here's a nice little blurb about how Kanders used lobbying and political connections to maintain his status as the sole company permitted to armour Humvees (resulting in a shortage of armoured Humvees and a surplus of dead soldiers in Iraq in the mid-2000s)
http://www.freewilliamsburg.com/archives/2005/06/ (http://www.freewilliamsburg.com/archives/2005/06/)
and here:
http://www.nytimes.com/....html?pagewanted=all (http://www.nytimes.com/....html?pagewanted=all)
Oh yeah and on the subject of whether BDEL was "employee owned", Duff and Metcalf each owned in excess of 10,000 shares of the company. The next ranking officer, Robert Peay, BDEL's CFO, (who was not part of the original Choinard Equipment buyout group) owned only 263. The other named principal stockholders were "Jaeggi, Ritchie, Grover, Carlson, McCall, Bowers, Bancroft, Cranor, (Michael) Metcalf, and Sachika" -- I believe they are mostly original investors, not ESOP employees.
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Yes, if you purchase shares of Clarus you will eventually own an equal number of shares of the proposed new Black Diamond company when the name change is effected. This assumes the merger transaction is consummated as the management and principal shareholders of both companies expect it to be by June 30. At that time or shortly thereafter, your Clarus shares would be renamed Black Diamond and listed on a national exchange. As a reminder though, at this point, investing at $6 represents a expression of absolute faith in the good intentions of Warren Kanders. He's selling Gregory to Clarus for half shares at $6 and half debt. The BDEL people aren't selling for a mixture of new stock and cash, or new stock and new debt, or any securities of the new company whatsoever, they are selling for hard cash only. In other words, as an investor group, the BDEL people are expressing no confidence whatsoever in the future of the combined entity. Were they to even sell part of their interests for shares, they could reduce their immediate tax burden and capitalize on the future growth of the company if its current price is "low" or if they believe Kanders has the ability to grow it successfully. They are doing no such thing.
Also, if you invest today you are doing so knowing only this: the combined revenues of the new entity (should the transaction be concluded) will be roughly $113mm, and its valuation at least $152. Until the merger documents with consolidated financials are publicly filed you have no idea how much debt either Black Diamond or Gregory hold. Black Diamond may be profitable, but they owe money to Zions Bancshares and to Credit Suisse. Their interest burden may be sopping up most of that profit. They may be selling now because they have to, not because they want to. You just won't know until the merger documents are filed.....
To me, this looks like corporate raider Ron Perelman buying camping products company Coleman in the 90s. That didn't go so well in the long run for Coleman Shareholders or Coleman's products. In addiition to looking a lot like a heavier-set version of Perelman, Kanders business used to include installing the armor plating on Humvee trucks, which were made by Ron Perelman's AM General; I wonder if they golf together.
Remember, the people who do this sort of thing (mergers and acquisitions) do it with enormous ferocity and for their own benefit, not the public's. Buyer beware.
Source: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2334477;search_string=trophy; (http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2334477;search_string=trophy;)
Make of that what you will. I'm no buisness type but it doesn't sit right with me.[/list]
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So it sounds like I should maybe get the Mastercams, or maybe the C3s, or maybe wait for the X4s if they're not too pricey :geek: :unsure: :blink:
Exactly.
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I'd defo suggest the Totem Basic (Aliens), and completely ignore your prejudices about grooves in the cam lobes. Everyone I know with Aliens finds them working better with age. The soft alloy of the cam lobes wears away to reveal a smooth surface, and suddenly you have a far more efficient cam design.
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But we already ruled the Totem Basics out because he's after small sizes, and they only go down to Mastercam #2 equivalent
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Went for C3s in the end, mostly due to the narrow head and also warnings about Mastercams seizing a bit. Thanks for all the advice, tradders :)
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Feind-e-pops - what are your conclusions?
I'm a bit light in a cams below BD C3 green (Size 0) and am not sure if I should go X4, C3 or Mastercam. Probably go C3 for consistency (and my mate is buying all the X4s when we get to USA).
Buuuut, any insight?
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If you're coming to Yosemite (as I gather you are) then go and buy the hybrid mastercams if you don't own them (purple/blue to orange/yellow are invaluable). We put off buying these until around two weeks ago and I'm kicking myself for it now.
The Camp4 notice board currently reads "Hybrids for Sale: Better than sex in a pin scar" and although I can't attest to having had sex in a pin scar, they are pretty outstanding in any kind of flared placement.
After using (and falling on) both C3s and Mastercams for the last 5 months the latter win hands down for me, more flexible and without the plastic sheath which on my C3s seems to contain half a desert.
If you're passing through Bishop buy your C4s there (try and avoid the mountain store), they sell for only a few £ more than I got mine for in the UK at trade+vat through where I was working.
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Interesting - we don't have any offsets. Would you ditch super small cams in favour of offsets? We have cam hooks of various sizes (and James apparently knows how to use them...)
Of just buy supersmall and offsets?
How long will you be in Camp4 for? We are arriving at the weekend.
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vaguely on (and off) topic - I have a set of Mastercams, sizes 1 to 6, never been used, still tagged, that I am open to offers for (became a sport climber and never got around to using them).
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Interesting - we don't have any offsets. Would you ditch super small cams in favour of offsets? We have cam hooks of various sizes (and James apparently knows how to use them...)
Of just buy supersmall and offsets?
How long will you be in Camp4 for? We are arriving at the weekend.
We're not in Camp4 we're in our van, Ford with CO license plates. If all goes to plan we'll be on a route when you arrive (we'll be selling a #6 C4 if Zodiac is on your list? [and likely our ledge]). Sorry to say its damn hot here currently, there's been lots of heat induced bailing.
In terms of rack I guess it depends on what you're looking to get on? I've used two 00 on all the walls we've been on and the offsets we just bought (b/y, y/o) end up getting back cleaned every time they're placed as they're so damn useful. The rack suggestions in the updated Yosemite big walls book seem to be reliable as does yosemitebigwall.net.
Oh and offset nuts are also damn useful (we've got gold-red but I dare say the full set wouldn't hurt).
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Oh, interesting! Where are you staying then? We're bringing a tent but are borrowing a van from a mate of James' for the month (it's a camper), so if there's places you can stay we'd be interested. Is it "creative camping"??
We actually have a #6 and have borrowed a WC #6 - I heard zodiac needs a #5 but can we get away with #4s and #6s?
Our mates might want the #6 though as they're short on big stuff. We have a ledge, our mates don't but I doubt they'll bother.
Any boulder mats on the camp site gear list?
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Fultonius, I've PMed you with some off-piste camping suggestions.
The wide crack above Peanut ledge (Pitch 14) is the one spot where gear >4" is nearly essential. If I recall correctly Friend 4s will be tipped-out and ideally it needs 2-3 Friend 5 size pieces, depending on how prepared you are to run it out. A Friend 6 is probably too big to fit. The pitch can be laybacked at about 5.10+ (or offwidthed at 5.9++) but you'd have to be pretty confident and this strategy doesn't work if there is a waterfall coming down the route as I found to my cost...
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Where Duncan has likely suggested has worked well for us (thanks) although some nights we don't go the distance and just pull over just outside of the park boundary (usually if we're getting up early to get on something).
I haven't noticed any mats for sale. You might be able to rent a few from the YOSAR camp if there's none for sale?
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Bring at least 2 4's and 2 new 5's for that pitch on Zodiac. I had one new 5 and one old (which was more like a 6). Had to do that terrifying thing of pulling on as if to free climb, then bumping the 5 up another couple of inches. Was solo, so near shat my pants. Not advisable.
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Bring at least 2 4's and 2 new 5's for that pitch on Zodiac. I had one new 5 and one old (which was more like a 6). Had to do that terrifying thing of pulling on as if to free climb, then bumping the 5 up another couple of inches. Was solo, so near shat my pants. Not advisable.
I hope you loudly proclaimed "Caaaaam shuffle" just as you started it? It's the only way to stay sane when you've only got one piece in 30 metres :o
So, no 6s will fit? Sheeeaattt! We have 2 x #4 and 2 x #6 but nae #5s. I might just send James up first and when he gets stuck, tie him off as a runner and power to the top.
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My tuppence....
I've used Metolius Mastercams, Aliens, Zeros all quite a lot, and fallen on them quite a bit.
I like and trust Aliens; though i only have originals (in dire need of replacement - are the new ones any good?) I've taken a decent lob onto a black (tiny) alien in US desert sandstone and it was fine.
Zeros always feel horrid to me, unless they are in a really basic positive placement where anything would be fine. The bendy stem makes them really hard to place if you are pumped shitless and they are fiddly anyway.
Mastercams almost as good as aliens - a little better constructed and durable perhaps, but have a little less of a positive 'bite' in flary horrible placements. I have found them no worse than anything else on seacliffs, surely you should clean everything anyway - it'll all get weaker if you don't. If you can't be arsed, accept that your gear will be less strong in a year's time.
BD do feel stiff - great in vertical pin scarred cracks (i.e. the USA were they are designed) not so good for flaring gritstone breaks and funny pockets on British mountain volcanics or little dusty pockets at Gogarth. I have not used them loads and loads though.
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Bring at least 2 4's and 2 new 5's for that pitch on Zodiac. I had one new 5 and one old (which was more like a 6). Had to do that terrifying thing of pulling on as if to free climb, then bumping the 5 up another couple of inches. Was solo, so near shat my pants. Not advisable.
I hope you loudly proclaimed "Caaaaam shuffle" just as you started it? It's the only way to stay sane when you've only got one piece in 30 metres :o
So, no 6s will fit? Sheeeaattt! We have 2 x #4 and 2 x #6 but nae #5s. I might just send James up first and when he gets stuck, tie him off as a runner and power to the top.
It was more a case of "Well shit, I got this far....". Theres a rivet about halfway up the size 5 section. Would probably hold a fall with a screamer on. My advice is to beg, borrow or steal a pair of 5's. Piss with them, desperate without.
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[quote author=TobyD link=topic=21925.msg418316#msg418316
BD do feel stiff - great in vertical pin scarred cracks (i.e. the USA were they are designed) not so good for flaring gritstone breaks and funny pockets on British mountain volcanics or little dusty pockets at Gogarth. I have not used them loads and loads though.
[/quote]
I bought an x4 to try out recently (smallest size), only used in anger once to date so cant really review it, but its much less stiff than a c3. To me so far it feels most like a mastercam with a slightly narrower head. Most of my experience is with zeros though, which I agree are fiddly and I dont often trust them...hence finally looking to replace.
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Apologies if this has been suggested elsewhere but the new Totem Basic Cams are fucking awesome, Aliens but improved. Well worth a look at and definitely my preference after using all of the above. The new BD ones are as others said quite stiff and their lobes are made from a pretty hard alloy so don't have the 'bite' of the Aliens/ Totems which can be all important in those small marginal placements or in glassy rock. I would avoid the master cams if you climb on sea cliffs by the way.
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Recommend the aliens from fixe. Build quality seems excellent. Bought mine from barrabes.com. Took about 10 days to arrive. Aliens have always been better than any other small cam around in my opinion (haven't seen the totem ones being talked about) due to the softer lobes that mean they stick better in flared placements. The drawback is the cams wear and can get mashed if fallen on a lot. My original blue (10 years old) is now the same size as my new black...
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Bring at least 2 4's and 2 new 5's for that pitch on Zodiac. I had one new 5 and one old (which was more like a 6). Had to do that terrifying thing of pulling on as if to free climb, then bumping the 5 up another couple of inches. Was solo, so near shat my pants. Not advisable.
So, we managed to cobble together 1 x #4, 1 x #5 and 1 x#6 (old style). I got given the honours of THAT PITCH and it was pretty terrifying. Luckily James had brought along a novel idea to get the #3.5 to fit:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wPq2JnHv5DM/UlGEyjnXnNI/AAAAAAAAAlM/TPrN8xcMQQw/s512/Zodiac%2520Cam.jpg)
Anyway, back to the question about the cams.
In the end James bought a full rack of x4s up to the purple 0.5. We also had a 0, 00 and 000 C3 and a set of Totems and here are my thoughts:
The x4s are very well made and a thing of beauty. We both spent a lot of time just admiring how nicely the cams retracted and how smoothly flexible the heads were. No complaints there. The head width is a little wider than the totems (for similar sized cams) but in use this didn't seem to make a huge difference as they both were narrow enough to get into pin scars.
This is where the differences between the totems and the X4s became more apparent. Early on when we were still getting to grips with numerous, flared, manky pin scars we would try any cam that fitted and on a number of occasions the X4s either didn't feel too inspiring or actually ripped out with a firm tug. At this point we would then try a similar Totem cam and they pretty much stuck every time.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uWzjJ0s08eg/UlGKokoF_NI/AAAAAAAAAlY/WeJMN6Qn5gQ/s512/Yellow%2520Totem%25201.jpg)
I can only remember one Totem pulling in the entire trip. We felt that this was due to the way the load is distributed between the pairs of cams, and the improved power in flares but that is mainly speculation. All I know is that they became the "go-to" cam. We carried no offsets and didn't ever feel like we should have.
That said, the little red X4 was an absolute godsend! We couldn't quite pin down what it was but it seemed to fit and hold in any pin scar that was too small for the blue Totem. The blue totem, yellow totem and red x4 were our most back-cleaned pieces by a long, long way.
As for the C3s. The narrow head is good and they held well in thin, parallel cracks. Obviously when you get to this small a cam it's important to find a part of the crack that doesn't open out in the back as its easy for the cams to walk a little and pop. I think I prefer the C3s aid climbing than on trad as I find they "pivot" around the central cam too much and can walk into poor placements. The small X4s are far superior for trad climbing due to this.
Ok, that's mainly "aid specific" opinion there, some additional thoughts for the traddies:-
The X4s and the Totems are similarly flexible. The X4s bend in a more elegant way (the Totems can look a bit funky when weighted) but on the whole there's not a huge difference. Both beat the C3s hands-down in that respect. Another area where the Totems edge ahead is when being placed. While both the X4s and Totems are similarly flexible, the Totems, in my opinion, are a bit easier to place due to a unique characteristic: When the trigger is pulled, the cam head stiffens up significantly. Often it would be easier to direct the head of the cam into an awkward placement with the Totem then the X4 as the X4 would be more inclined to deflect. Subtle, but important difference.
One downside of the Totems is they don't rack all that well. The stiff double sling and off-axis orientation mean they take up more space on the harness. Also, the round thumb loop on the X4 is a bit easier to locate when placing the cam under duress. All in, they're both very good but chose wisely depending on your preferences.
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I was very pleased with my set of Totems on my recent Welsh trad outing too. My partners all had sufficient smallish-to-medium cams that I had doubles whenever I felt I needed them, but if I felt the need to beef up my own rack I bit I would definitely now go for doubles in yellow to green Totems and not consider anything else (even though Dragons are immaculately built things of beauty)
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I'm really liking the C3s and have used them on loads of trad this summer. I particularly like the narrow head (obviously!), the stiffness for placing them more accurately, and also changing the orientation of the 3 lobes seems to have more of an effect than with 4 lobes for optimising awkward placements. The only downside I've found is the lateral stiffness in the stem, but that's usually only an issue in placements that would have the stem too perpendicular anyway.
When I've borrowed friend's cams (badoom!), I've found Aliens far too floppy with too shallow lobes (almost as bad as zeros), Mastercams pretty nice but a friend had one seize completely on Orkney, only tried one Totem and it seems okay but they're bulky and there's 3 C3s below the smallest totem size.
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A nice review of the Totem Cams from Mr Hudon:
http://www.mountaingear.com/themountainblog/2013/09/the-magic-cam/ (http://www.mountaingear.com/themountainblog/2013/09/the-magic-cam/)
If you can't be arsed to read it, just take a look at one holding in that flare!
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Played 5 mins with totems at the base of annot crags today.
Very impressed, especially how they seem to bite in seemingly impossible placements...
Also think they'd need less extending than other cams.
On the downside they are so flexible that it is harder to "push" them in, probably not the best if the placement is a bomber splitter and you're in a hurry...
But i might go for the full set some time soon...
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If I were doing a lot of trad these days (which I'm not, sadly, as I don't live near any) I'd be considering a second set.
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But i might go for the full set some time soon...
Good luck getting hold of them. I've heard that the bottleneck is at the production end!
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I have a question
For the absolutely smallest sizes there doesn't seem to be many options other than c3s, ball nuts and zeros.
Among these three, assuming they all fit equally well, what would ukb'ers prefer to protect fall-able freeclimbing moves?
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Not really from a planning for yos perspective!
It is more backwards thinking after doing a route that needed gear for a really small parallel sided crack - i used what i could borrow but wondered what would have been the theoretical best!
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I have a question
For the absolutely smallest sizes there doesn't seem to be many options other than c3s, ball nuts and zeros.
Among these three, assuming they all fit equally well, what would ukb'ers prefer to protect fall-able freeclimbing moves?
If we're talking about a headpoint type situation, where you've got a chance to have a fiddle with the gear and see what fits best, then I'd go for the ball nut. They're markedly stronger in the small sizes (8kn for a ball nut below 10mm vs 4-6kn for similarly sized cams) and as shark mentioned it's easy to mess up placing small cams whereas you get a little more room for error with ball nuts.
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Ballnuts are good for the reasons mentioned but need a smooth, parallel and slightly deeper slot. I'd take both them and C3s.
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Mastercam 00s feel far more stable than the C3 00.
Having now handled the totem non-basic I can see how they fit in improbable placements. I may sell my full set of c3s if anyone would be interested.
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http://www.rockrun.com/metolius-mastercams/ (http://www.rockrun.com/metolius-mastercams/) deal on at the moment. Probably still cheaper to get in US though.
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American forums currently getting worked up about what appears to be failure of a Fixe Alien under low load (bounce testing) due to a manufacturing defect.
Supertopo (http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2366805&tn=0)
Mountainproject (http://mountainproject.com/v/broken-fixe-alien-on-st/108775315)
Hopefully a one-off incident and not The Return Of The Curse Of The Alien.
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Hmmm - have had a Blue Alien since they came out years ago and along with my brass hb offset 0, its one of my favourite, in extremis and oft used bits of kit.
I'm thinking about a smaller cam..
Went and had a play in a shop recently and it would seem that I'm torn between black Faders/fixe alien, or a Zero Friend 3 (silver), Very similar cam range.
Wondered if anyone has any thoughts. I'm really not sold on the C3's, C4s or the metolius ones either.
Pity that Totem Basic doesn't seem to come in black.