UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Doylo on February 24, 2004, 11:08:35 am
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Lanky boy, Ryan Pasquill climbed the awesome overhanging right arete of Purple Haze block at Rivelin yesterday. "Master Kush" (V10/7c+) sit starts on the obvious low jug. The crux is slapping the slopey lip and holding the swing. This is followed by an easier top out. Ryan managed to use his massive span to good effect on the crux move by slapping further left on the lip making it easier to hold the swing. Its a bit trickier for those of a normal stature. Definetely 3 stars of anyones money.
Piccy of Neil K on the problem below
(http://server6.uploadit.org/files/chrisdoyle-arete.jpg)
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fucking hell that looks good chris - noticed that pic last nite on the DVD extras.
where about is that to be found then?
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Aye its the dogs. Its sort of between the the main edge and the quarries. If you just go up to the main crag and follow the path leftwards you come to it in 5 minutes or something. There's a good left to right traverse called Purple Haze Traverse V6ish on the same block. Your partial to a bit of esoterica dave, you should check it out.
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Bloody fine effort. I looked at this and dismissed at as one for the next generation. Brilliant stuff, deserves to be a classic.
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Oh yeah, theres a fair few hidden extras on the DVD including a short bouldering film. You need to go through it with a fine toothcomb.
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right i get you. I'll check it out next time for sure.
P.S. when the dvd is playin it don't appear to like me pressing the menu button to get back to the menu - nowt happens. is this just my playa or does everyone get it?
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Oh yeah, theres a fair few hidden extras on the DVD including a short bouldering film. You need to go through it with a fine toothcomb.
Chris, have you got Dans latest contact details... So i can get a DVD?
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Adam, can you let me know too if you find them coz I want a copy as well...
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Adam, can you let me know too if you find them coz I want a copy as well...
:soon:
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Bloody fine effort. I looked at this and dismissed at as one for the next generation. Brilliant stuff, deserves to be a classic.
I spose ryan is the next generation eh Jon.
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right i get you. I'll check it out next time for sure.
P.S. when the dvd is playin it don't appear to like me pressing the menu button to get back to the menu - nowt happens. is this just my playa or does everyone get it?
Just had a butchers, couldn't figure it out either.
Adam an Bubba we've got some copies here, should be able to get one to you soon!
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right i get you. I'll check it out next time for sure.
P.S. when the dvd is playin it don't appear to like me pressing the menu button to get back to the menu - nowt happens. is this just my playa or does everyone get it?
Just had a butchers, couldn't figure it out either.
Adam an Bubba we've got some copies here, should be able to get one to you soon!
Can I put my name down for one too?
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right i get you. I'll check it out next time for sure.
P.S. when the dvd is playin it don't appear to like me pressing the menu button to get back to the menu - nowt happens. is this just my playa or does everyone get it?
Just had a butchers, couldn't figure it out either.
Adam an Bubba we've got some copies here, should be able to get one to you soon!
Ta Chris, ive PM'd ya
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Adam an Bubba we've got some copies here, should be able to get one to you soon!
Cheers Chris :)
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Good effort Ryan!
Any chance I could get a look in as well for the DVD? :)
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Whilst in the Rivelin quarries vicinity did anyone wonder over to the boulder problems near woozle?
Class crag Rivelin Quarries. Given its size the density of brilliant routes and boulder problems is amazing.
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just been through the DVD on a hidden feature tip - fon the bouldering thing, also the "top ten" and ting.
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Whilst in the Rivelin quarries vicinity did anyone wonder over to the boulder problems near woozle?
Class crag Rivelin Quarries. Given its size the density of brilliant routes and boulder problems is amazing.
I believe Mr Welford has been active in those parts, adding a low start to my old arete route Cheeses of Nazareth.
I agree Rivelin is now a worthwhile bouldering spot especially if you include micro-routes like Phase Action, Acid Reign, Trivial Pursuits, Cool Running, Boulder Club etc all of which make class bouldering with a pad.
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Whilst in the Rivelin quarries vicinity did anyone wonder over to the boulder problems near woozle?
Class crag Rivelin Quarries. Given its size the density of brilliant routes and boulder problems is amazing.
Any problems in particular you'd recommend in the quarries? I know Cheeses of Nazareth but nothing else.
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The arete left of Nik's wall is a fine v7/v8 dyno.
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How do i get to the rivelin quarries? is it part of rivelin edge? Anything good in the V4-6 range?
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The arete left of Nik's wall is a fine v7/v8 dyno.
(and can be done static at much the same grade), the undercut arete to the right of 'Niks' wall is also rather good I believe, done by Huffy I think and I don't know what grade it would be.
'Niks' wall itself is also a class problem IMHO albeit a little bit trickier.
There are also some pretty obvious easier problems on various short wall throughtout the quarries. It is worth seeking out the direct start to Dougal which is an obvious boulder problem slab which is probably V8/9-ish, again this is a good problem (but I would say that), and if you have a rope you can carry straight on up the wall and get an E5 tick.
Hell everything at Rivelin Quarries is amazing and more people should go there because everything there is amazing.
Choice routes (if you're interested) are:
Flex
Jack The Groove
Earthboots
Feet Neat
Paddington
Final Overthrow Of The Green Something-or-other
Otherwise just stick to the bouldering, which is amazing.
Rivelin Quarries is the thing I've missed most since leaving Sheffield, what a great crag. Right I'll stop now before I sound really sad......
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How do i get to the rivelin quarries?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/databases/crags/craginfo.html?id=887
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/outdoor/rad/rad_det.asp?crag_id=313
is it part of rivelin edge?
No, but it's close.
Anything good in the V4-6 range?
No idea - anyone know?
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There are a few of good easier problems in the quarries (albeit a bit spread out), but really it is is a place to go for class E5+ routes and a few VERY good harder boulder problems. Having said that I doubt that the place is worked out bouldering wise so go and explore. As long as you ignore the initial green appearance you won't be disapointed.
And now I truly am sad....
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what DVD? Can I have one aswell - is it bouldering, cheers bubba. :D :D
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Whoah there c.j.d. - I've not even got a copy yet !
I think there's a bit of bouldering on it, but it's primarily a headpointing video. The last one "A film by some climbers" was good though, and apparantly this ones much better so i can't wait to see it. Even though i don't do routes any more, I enjoy watching people's terror :wink:
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basically the bouldering amounts to huffy on one problem somewhere, and then a hidden 2 minute feature. less than 0.5% of the total footage.
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anyone know what the quarries is like after snow?
:8)
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Should be fine as its edge bouldering, faces south and has a fair bit of tree cover, Purple Haze boulder on Riv' edge may be a bit snowed up tho. If you go, bring plenty of paddage as their is only a few short probs and the rest are micro-routes/highballs, bring old Stanage Guide too, if you have one.
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if we do go i think it'll primarily be for routes, weather permitting. i like the look of that bear necessities and padington.
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If you're a demond crimpster :ev: have a look at Earthboots (wall left of Jack the Groove(which is on consumed)), top-draw safe but hard E6 6c/7a with runner by crux and runner before tricky end move, stays ungreen in winter too. Crux is leftward rockover using tiny edges.
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I may be wrong but I think earthboots is also featured somewhere briefly on consumed. Not the full route but I'm pretty sure the first or second route flashed up in the intro is earthboots.
Also try Thats My Lot, could do with a repeat.
Paddington is class. There is a direct finish at E4 6a (not sure if that made it into the old stanage guide) and a direct start which coupled with the direct finish is probably worth E5 6b? - thats deffo not in the guide.
Bear neccesities didn't really impress me compared to the other routes in the quarries, but feet neat is supposed to be awesome (a route at the quarries I've never tried!!) and Flex is just the best quarried grit slab ever (both of these routes are also in the intro of consumed - and both are fallen off if I remember right)
Let us know how you get on.
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I may be wrong but I think earthboots is also featured somewhere briefly on consumed. Not the full route but I'm pretty sure the first or second route flashed up in the intro is earthboots.
Is that the one someone (dan?) falls off and swings round an arete? if so gear looks good :D
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feet neet is the arete fall thing (2 pegs innit, from what i saw there). if i remember i think theres a quick clip of someone (scut?) on earthboots (dynoing for a slot?). Theres also a shot form above of Polish dave on summert green there (flex or final overthrow?) and also a shot from the back of someone on flex if i remember right.
christ i'm sad.
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No, that is feet neet (if it's the one I'm thinking of).
Flex is the big slab which Dan (at least I think it's Dan) falls quite a long way off to the ground, it might have some sort of reversing the film special effect thing on it so he falls up the route then falls back down?!?
I think earthboots is right at the very start where someone (dunno who) does a slap for a crimp, it is a very short clip I think, I'll watch it tonight and check though. Earthboot is the wall just left of Jack the groove so I would imagine it will be easy to see in the Jack the groove bit of the film (the ascent of Jack the groove is by Dan and is spliced with ascents of two other routes - I can't remember which ones right now)
Am I very sad? Oh yes...
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is sex drive any good?
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Is that the E3 arete with a side runner?
If so then not the best of the crag by a long stretch. The start is a bit wierd. One of those kind of not sure where to start and where to go things - which is strange for an arete. The top had a couple of nice moves I think. Best thing is to solo it and stick to the right hand side of the arete for the most satisfying and technical solution (but a bit artificial). Also the landing is bad and on a slope and theres trees and shit all around and blah blah blah so spotting could be awkward.
Honestly go and try Final Overthrow and Flex and then just walk around smiling for a couple of months. Also the boulder problem that Tom runs up at the start of consumed is ace, and is just round the corner.
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The arete left of Nik's wall is a fine v7/v8 dyno.
(and can be done static at much the same grade), the undercut arete to the right of 'Niks' wall is also rather good I believe, done by Huffy I think and I don't know what grade it would be.
went there today on way home from burbage
I don't get this "arete left of Nik's wall" thing. the left arete of that wall looked shite, and as if the whole top part was falling apart anyway. there looked to be brushed footholds up the sort of curving rib ar the right hand end of the wall however - whats that?
John did the huffy arete thing from standing. I got close but that crimp was ripping me skin, and i didn't want to endure the indignified 20minutes of clawing through vertical grass, brames and shit that john had to do. We also noticed a certian famous piece of wood there. :lol:
had a brief play on that steep arete thing (the object of this thread) but its clearly nails. all got close to purple haze traverse (good) but eventualy bad light and being totally busted got the better of us, seing us off with a variety of increasingly spectacular comedy failures.
might post up some token shit pictures up for academic interest.
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(http://www.beardown.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Webclimbphotos/purplehaze01.jpg)
(http://www.beardown.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Webclimbphotos/purplehaze02.jpg)
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The arete left of Nik's wall is a fine v7/v8 dyno.
(and can be done static at much the same grade), the undercut arete to the right of 'Niks' wall is also rather good I believe, done by Huffy I think and I don't know what grade it would be.
went there today on way home from burbage
I don't get this "arete left of Nik's wall" thing. the left arete of that wall looked shite, and as if the whole top part was falling apart anyway. there looked to be brushed footholds up the sort of curving rib ar the right hand end of the wall however - whats that?
Perhaps 'fine' is overstating the case a little, but it does climb better than it looks. Did yers have another look at Phase Action, now that one is 'fine'.
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went there today on way home from burbage
I don't get this "arete left of Nik's wall" thing. the left arete of that wall looked shite, and as if the whole top part was falling apart anyway. there looked to be brushed footholds up the sort of curving rib ar the right hand end of the wall however - whats that?
The arete is climbed on its right hand side you basically have your right hand in the low pocket, left hand as high up the arete as you can and left foot pasted up high on the arete and the slap/dyno for the 'top'. The top being the big mid height break as you rightly point out the rest of the wall is shite. It is good (or at least I thought so). The static way invovles technical right foot hand swaps in the pocket with muchos body tension. The right end of the wall up the groove thing is a fun little problem, it involves a small dyno for me but a mutant like yourself (i.e. over 5'7) should be able to static style it. All of the problems stop at mid-height due to the shite nature of the top section of wall.
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Cool Dave, were you trying Purple Haze by going high to crimps or were you sticking to the slopers on the lip. The aretes proper bo eh!
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Cool Dave, were you trying Purple Haze by going high to crimps or were you sticking to the slopers on the lip. The aretes proper bo eh!
we wuz goin to the crimps, take it it goes either way? looks a little trickier if you go with the slopers all the way I guess...
the move to the lip on the arete must be flava when you stick it :D
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It was originally done sticking to the lip, but as i'm sure you've sussed out this is duff beta, goin to crimps is the way.
Only Ry's done the move to the lip on the arete and its had loads an loads of attempts from some strong folk.
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to jon and nik - i see what you mean about that arete now. it seems much better now you've x-planed it to me. word.
chris, whats the flava way to gain the hign crimps at the end of PH then? Kim and the others were trying to lock over to them with left heel on, but i was laying off the "groove" thing and using slap power to get the first crimp up there with right hand. didn't link it due to chinese-laqueredness though. I had done submergance eariler though (and if anyone says it harder for the short then i say: :nopity: ).
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I walked from one end of the crag to the norfolk arms yesturday trying to find these problems?????????????????
Anyone give me some clue were purple haze and this arete is
I found a wall with an arete on it and to its left a problems of a little crimp looking like a dyno to the top..
I was most disapointed I couldnt find this problem
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the purple haze block isn't actually in the quarries, its on the natural egde. its in the 60m gap between the Cool Running buttress and the butress with We're Only Here For The Smear (senators gully etc). If you've got the '89 stanage guide then this gap is clearly described. In other words its about 200m left of the rivelin needle/blizzard ridge area approx.
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fucker!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that was the only part I couldnt be arsed walking up to
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that's what you get for being a lazy bugger!
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who you calling a lazy bugger at least I got out???????????????????
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Dave:
Good effort on submergence, though it is much easier for the tall, maybe V6? :lol:
Neil:
Dunno where the haze thing is but the arete is at the right hand end of the quarries. Its pretty obvious, it is at the left end of a short wall which has a couple of pockets in it and an obvious crimp and some sumpremely shite layaways. The wall is has a big/huge break at about half height and the rock above this is shite - traverse/jump off. The arete is ace and is climbed on its right hand side, the wall is also ace but substatially harder and if you can dyno from the crimp to the top then you should take up flying, resign yourself to endless hours of snatching for shite holds as you claw your way upwards instead. Just to the right of the wall is another arete that is really undercut at its base. This is also a good problem.
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to jon and nik - i see what you mean about that arete now. it seems much better now you've x-planed it to me. word.
chris, whats the flava way to gain the hign crimps at the end of PH then? Kim and the others were trying to lock over to them with left heel on, but i was laying off the "groove" thing and using slap power to get the first crimp up there with right hand. didn't link it due to chinese-laqueredness though. I had done submergance eariler though (and if anyone says it harder for the short then i say: :nopity: ).
I think i slapped too, its a bit of a tussle. I seem to remember a sneaky knee on the lip helping also. Not the most elegant way of doin it though. Nice one on submergence, nasty problem.
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Dave:
Good effort on submergence, though it is much easier for the tall, maybe V6? :lol:
yeah yeah, i did it after warming up on blind date V4. Seriouly though its a great problem though, if a little arse dragging, which ever way you have to do it. my way was nice big open moves and body tension - rad. whats everyone think its "rated"? i know sharma says it not about the ratings, but fuck that, i could really use an ego-wank right now. Be kind to me boys.....
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Well I found it much easier than Blind Date (which I cannot do at all) so that makes it V7/8 I suppose?
But I also found it harder than the Terrace so that would make it V11?
Seriously I thought V10 my way and V47 your way - I just cannae reach....
I think all this proves is that I know cock all about bouldering grades.
Any more suggestions?
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I expect your way is true V10.7c+. maybe my way scrapes into 7c with a following wind. but probably not, maybe hard 7b+? throw me a bone.
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I said V47, what more do you want man?
P.S. Does anyone know what the problem is to the right of Jasons Undercling (round the other side of the arete). The sit start, wierd toe hook move to good crimp and a big good sloper, slap over lip to a chip then finish up and right. Big boulder of doom in unfortunate position? I just saw it for the first time yesterday and couldn't believe I'd missed it before.
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I expect your way is true V10.7c+. maybe my way scrapes into 7c with a following wind. but probably not, maybe hard 7b+? throw me a bone.
Sounds about right i'd say.
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P.S. Does anyone know what the problem is to the right of Jasons Undercling (round the other side of the arete). The sit start, wierd toe hook move to good crimp and a big good sloper, slap over lip to a chip then finish up and right. Big boulder of doom in unfortunate position? I just saw it for the first time yesterday and couldn't believe I'd missed it before.
this is about 7a+/b, and is good. an excellent variation is when you've got the bullethole and crimp on the lip, make a massive slap leftwards into the pinch on jasons, cock left foot up then work right hand up the arete. a very bo 7b+. Its classic like 101.1 FM.
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didn't think it quite warranted 7c dave but defo hard 7b+. I find it quite a bit easier than blind date though which you find easy....all swings and roundabouts; horses for courses;too many cooks spoil the broth; a bird in the hand........
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Its classic like 101.1 FM.
You've come over all Judge Jules (not literally :D )
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:blowjob:
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went bak today, that purple haze is wicked
the arete is fucking ard, Its was very warm which might have made it feel harder
the two problems in the quarry left of the wall, what are the grades, the arete and the wall left of it of the shitty side pull
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I'm a bit confused. Which arete is fuckin hard? And which arete and wall left of it do you want t know the grades of?
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Hey Nick,
is it not your problem and 'Happy Campus'?
Gotta get back there someday....
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Is happy campus the name you gave to the undercut arete?
If so then I think thats what he means but I'm not sure.
Anyway what grade does happy campus go at?
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Happy Campus: excellent name.
Any idea how the C........k ladder made its way there?
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didn't d.....n take it from c......k? i heard it was chucked back over though.
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didn't d.....n take it from c......k? i heard it was chucked back over though.
D......n? I thought it might have been Z...y.
Anyone know who made the ladder in the first place? A true DIY expert!
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anyone know who first did purple haze, cause i'd guess its the same person who pulled down the wall which made the boulder a class bivvy.
wasn't impressed when a saw the destruction to the scene of many a happy night :cry:
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Pete Hurly did the first ascent of the traverse, he's too lazy (and too stoned!) to bother deconstructing some stone wall though.
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A certain Peter Hurley I believe, lock him up and throw away the key.
:lol:
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Pete Hurly did the first ascent of the traverse, he's too lazy (and too stoned!) to bother deconstructing some stone wall though.
Aye was gonna post to say it was burley who did the FA. Wasnt sure though.
Agree with Chris, knocking down stone walls is too much like hard work for Pete
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just seen in Climber (didn't buy it, reading in library) that welford was claimed the sitter to huffy's campus arete No Class V9. Huffmaster must have done this already, no?
rewind.
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i asked huff dogg the other day cos i wanted some 411 type shizzle - apparently he hasn't...
i reckon that contradictory to the name it does have class and is bob ard at V9 word - the JW isn't exactly known for over grading is he...