UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: yetix on September 11, 2020, 01:51:40 pm
-
Not sure on the grade or what he's gonna call it. But Aidans done the sitter to Manpower at Lad Stones. The holds there look non existing from what I recall when I was last there. Think that he's done a few other harder things recently. Weapon.
-
Hands down the hardest problem in the UK of its style and about the only thing Aidans put serious time into.
-
(https://i.postimg.cc/BbqMpVk1/B442-E77-B-F9-A8-4223-9-C19-67-ABFA3-D04-AA.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
-
Aidan has just posted about Flip Off at the Opera 8C at the Bowderstone too.
-
What sort of style are we talking here? (Apologies for poor Lakes knowledge)
I presume we are talking board style on crimps as this is Aidens style.
Could Aiden be the first to repeat Nalle’s 9A!? Seems like it would be his style.
-
Surely deserves a dedicated "Aidanwad" thread at this point!
-
At the rate which this stuffs going down I gotta agree Nick!
Where Manpower is found is a steep face with tiny holds Duncan for sure. Does sound like he has the fingers for BoD!
-
Does this link from the start of Retaliation into Man Power then?
Presume Flip Off at the Opera links Flip Flopera into Phantom Direct?
-
Yes its the true sitter to Manpower. Not so much a link as a true sit start line that follows a vague scoop up the face. Retaliation is more the link but was logical to do first as its easier. The stone line is effectively flip flopera sit into phantom direct but via an even tighter line, im not sure how enforceable that will ever be IMO as the body positions would barely be any different between the two and a lot of holds will have to not be in, more a good example of the current strength of aidan far outpacing anything the ladderface can offer (but not the back side with its hard projects)
Manpower sit and Copperline sit are two of the best hard problems i've seen on lakes volcanic rock, they aren't just hard they're great quality lines that do the area proud. Aidan's known about and tried manpower on and off since 2016 but found some more reliable beta this week for the manpower stand move. Copperline was just a couple of sessions this year. It's all mega inspiring to see and nice to finally have some "doable" big numbers locally.
-
Has he finished off copperline sitter too Dan?
Truely inspiring stuff going down atm.
Need to get him on Bombadil next, that one looked a worldie Dan.
-
Just gonna continue using this thread as he's doing too much! Aidans also done Copperline lower start at 8B+. Beauty of a wall that one.
-
Just gonna continue using this thread as he's doing too much! Aidans also done Copperline lower start at 8B+. Beauty of a wall that one.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CFHxnDWj08m/?igshid=hjxnw7tf93a3
Just to keep Fiend happy 😁
Assume this one is at the upper upper end of 8b+!!
-
He did say hard 8B+ in the inshtagram...
-
More info on Aidans rampage here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CFKXsP7jEM3/?igshid=1y10y6za71mhu
Manpower sit has been called Superpower and graded at 8C/+
-
Mountain rock provides the meat. Makes me wish we had someone proper strong here in Gogledd Cymru boshing out large numbers.
-
He said on Instagram that he's trying not to fly so I imagine he'd be pretty keen to visit Wales if he could be pointed at new lines. Crazy to think things like Das Pumpenhausen and Pools of Bethesda are 2-3 grades below his limit!
-
He said on Instagram that he's trying not to fly so I imagine he'd be pretty keen to visit Wales if he could be pointed at new lines. Crazy to think things like Das Pumpenhausen and Pools of Bethesda are 2-3 grades below his limit!
There’s a few but it seems the glaciers gave the Lakes all the super hard shit. Icy bastards.
-
Isles Sit Start is the most obvious N Wales hard proj I can think of. Awesome line in a great position.
-
What about Macleod's unrepeated things? Must be plenty to keep him busy up there? Or too easy?
-
He said on Instagram that he's trying not to fly so I imagine he'd be pretty keen to visit Wales if he could be pointed at new lines. Crazy to think things like Das Pumpenhausen and Pools of Bethesda are 2-3 grades below his limit!
There’s a few but it seems the glaciers gave the Lakes all the super hard shit. Icy bastards.
I bet Pete's got a few hard projects/lines tucked away... :)
-
I’m presuming there is footage of all of these problems, or is it being keep secret for some kind of project.
-
He mentioned in the Trowbarrrow post that footage will be in a film of his summer climbing.
-
I guess no-one has tried the hard lines in Scotland enough to know whether they are that hard? Apart from maybe the BigMac himself. But with form like aidans you could mop up some stunning lines roving around up here. Of all the faces mine eyes have gazed upon, perhapse none have been as striking or as fierce as the front face of the Perfect Catch boulder in Glen Tarbert. A rising line of pockets into a tapering crack on a perfect leaning wall of granite. I would guess Dave has tried it along with Dan V when he did the left wall? Handsome arete too to the right of Dan's problem.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/8613355127/in/photostream/
-
Loos mint, plus i just spent 20 minutes flicking through the photostream, some amazing looking stuff
-
Just about on-topic; scrolling through Varian's Flickr came across this photo of Aidan on New Verse Line (variation of Mr Multiverse at Carrock):
https://flic.kr/p/F3NjZj
He's matching that hold!! :jaw:
-
He said on Instagram that he's trying not to fly so I imagine he'd be pretty keen to visit Wales if he could be pointed at new lines. Crazy to think things like Das Pumpenhausen and Pools of Bethesda are 2-3 grades below his limit!
There’s a few but it seems the glaciers gave the Lakes all the super hard shit. Icy bastards.
I bet Pete's got a few hard projects/lines tucked away... :)
8as not 8b+/cs. He’s allergic to training so doubt he’d ever hit those heights.
-
There's send footage of all the nails stuff, some is phone and some is more pro.
Wales defo has plenty of hard stuff to do, it's just never had someone psyched on finding all the tiny crimp gaps, the type of grot aidan can pull on is like that steep wall right of lily savage? (the 7B right of madame allure) anyway it'll be there you'll just have written it off. The Lakes has more i agree as its never had the scene wales has so is more under developed, there are whole valleys like ennerdale and buttermere with only a handful of recorded problems. Definitely not forced link up time yet. The lakes is still missing world class stuff IMO as i've not yet seen the best of its rock combine with a line. But there's a decent chance its out there. Stuff like copperline isnt far off the likely style we'd find though.
Scotland is well on Aidans radar and i'll fob the full list onto who's going on that trip. I'd already mentioned that ardgour barrel, not 100% the top goes on that though and sadly the arete is chossy at the top, that said its been 8 years since i went and its got to be worth an ab on a rope to check.
Main face of this etc are on the radar too.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/40608456912/in/dateposted/
He did Kott sit a week ago,i think he's just working through the admin of renaming + massively upgrading an 8A O'Connor did to dodge a puddle that Gaskins had no issue with and confirmed the grade on. :worms:
At the minute, in the lakes, its more an issue of if the rock can keep up. i think my dusty list of backlogged maybes will only last a few more months with Aidans current form as i stopped exploring in the lakes years ago before kids came along. He's pretty much only driven to projects 20mins from his house as it stands. So there's a good chance that by this time next year it'll have good amount of session choice for the travelling southern wad.
i've even started saying goodbye to a few sandstone projects in an effort to detox his ridiculous skyhook fingers :wavecry:
Its exciting to not be the only person rattling round on these things in the north. Only took a global pandemic...
-
Is he keen to get on some of your stuff up here Dan or just after new stuff?
You must be keen to see some of it repeated.
-
Yeah he's keen. He was on some of my harder stuff in the lakes this week. We've been upto the county a few times over the years. He almost did master of stone at hepburn soon after i put it up in 2017 and did the punisher at shaftoe that trip which is still the only repeat AFAIK. But in current form he's climbing much better than then. Likely will be up in the winter and knows about a few crimpy projys too that i've not got stuck into much yet (like the heckley line). He's still really good at compression etc for someone so good on crimps its rare. We have slightly different styles and body size so there will likely be a few learning curves on the odd line but with a lot of them being 7-10years old there's not much they'll offer that he doesnt have in his skill set now IMO. i'm learning how to crimp like an amateur version of aidan at the moment using different techniques/approaches we've chatted about over the years and that he's guinea pigged/made his own.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/50352502607/in/dateposted/ New prow with two finishes from last weekend. 7C+/8A depending on the left or right exit.
-
i'm learning how to crimp like an amateur version of aidan at the moment using different techniques/approaches we've chatted about over the years and that he's guinea pigged/made his own.
Can you elaborate on this? I much prefer the open hand grip but am trying to widen my repertoire.
-
Good info Dan, thanks.
He did Kott sit a week ago
What's this?
New prow thing looks great, is location undisclosed atm?
-
There's send footage of all the nails stuff, some is phone and some is more pro.
Wales defo has plenty of hard stuff to do, it's just never had someone psyched on finding all the tiny crimp gaps, the type of grot aidan can pull on is like that steep wall right of lily savage? (the 7B right of madame allure) anyway it'll be there you'll just have written it off.s m...
I had a little play on that years ago. Seem to remember people dismissing it as shit (can’t remember who people were).
-
There's send footage of all the nails stuff, some is phone and some is more pro.
Wales defo has plenty of hard stuff to do, it's just never had someone psyched on finding all the tiny crimp gaps, the type of grot aidan can pull on is like that steep wall right of lily savage? (the 7B right of madame allure) anyway it'll be there you'll just have written it off.s m...
I had a little play on that years ago. Seem to remember people dismissing it as shit (can’t remember who people were).
Might be different line to what you’re thinking of. Not been there for yonks .
-
Good info Dan, thanks.
He did Kott sit a week ago
What's this?
Karma of the Trees sit start at Kentmere, saw Aidan trying it a few years ago now (wearing some rather fetching North Face trackies) and it looked fucking nails. Think he lives close to there so that was a proper local project for him and I guess from when I saw him he must have been trying it for 3 years at least?
-
Good info Dan, thanks.
He did Kott sit a week ago
What's this?
Karma of the Trees sit start at Kentmere, saw Aidan trying it a few years ago now (wearing some rather fetching North Face trackies) and it looked fucking nails. Think he lives close to there so that was a proper local project for him and I guess from when I saw him he must have been trying it for 3 years at least?
Ohhhhh wow that's brilliant, yeah remember that being spoken of in hushed tones as probably going to be very hard (ignoring blatant lies).
Makes me think of the other recent thread about comp beasts getting out; guess the lack of distractions from going abroad and comps have helped get at least a few of these over the line.
-
I had a little play on that years ago. Seem to remember people dismissing it as shit
;D That old chestnut will only keep people off your projects for so long, looks like you're going to have to pull your finger out and get it done now the cat's out the bag!
-
I had a little play on that years ago. Seem to remember people dismissing it as shit
;D That old chestnut will only keep people off your projects for so long, looks like you're going to have to pull your finger out and get it done now the cat's out the bag!
It can’t be the same line if I pulled on and Dans talking about hard stuff :lol:
-
I have unilaterally changed the topic title to Aidanwad in recognition of his outstanding wadness and set it as a sticky topic.
-
#lifegoals
-
I realise I should prob know this but what is the origin of wad? Google hasnt helped.
-
I realise I should prob know this but what is the origin of wad? Google hasnt helped.
It’s from a Paul Pritchard essay where he uses it to describe sponsored climbers who have (probably figurative) wads of money from their endorsement deals in contrast to the other not-quite-as-good dole-funded climbers on the strata of the Llanberis scene below them. It might be in Deep Play.
I once used the term to describe an American climber and his mate. He didn’t realise I meant it as a compliment and looked like he was ready to hit me until I explained what I meant. I didn’t know the origin then so I couldn’t explain it very well. :oops:
-
Thanks for the explanation cheque, been wondering for a while! Glad you managed to talk your way out of that :2thumbsup:
-
I though it was to do with PP's former partner Crispin Waddy aka King Wad
-
I may be wrong, but I don't think either of those explanations are right; indeed they are mutually contradictory as Crispin certainly never had wads of cash from his non-existent sponsorship deals. Paul may have used it in Deep Play but I think it had older origins. I should know as I was there etc. but, you know, brain cells and all that.
-
Don't think either of us were implying it was both.
-
Is the term of the right vintage to be a reference, ironic or otherwise, to Harry Enfield's "Loadsamoney"*? One of his catchphrases was "look at my wad".
*Young people and aliens, Loadsamoney was a sketchshow character that briefly captured the Thatcher zeigeist - a newly monied, aggresive, working class person (a middle class nightmare of money with no taste).
https://youtu.be/bNGEPNzrOUk (https://youtu.be/bNGEPNzrOUk)
-
I once used the term to describe an American climber and his mate. He didn’t realise I meant it as a compliment and looked like he was ready to hit me until I explained what I meant. I didn’t know the origin then so I couldn’t explain it very well.
In US parlance wad = jizz which is probably why he didn't take it as the compliment you meant it to be.
-
Don't think either of us were implying it was both.
No, not at all. But at least one of them has to be wrong.
-
Crikey this looks good. Sounds like the full line up the face from a sit. The UK's Bugeleisen?
https://www.instagram.com/p/CFeR6T1jHth/?igshid=r5j56dbkhj0p
-
Wish he'd stop teasing with these nicely shot photos. Presumably someone who knows how to edit videos nicely is also there and we'll be expecting a glorious video at some point?
-
Think he's been promising that.
-
And more...
https://www.instagram.com/p/CFmsoR5j1x6/?igshid=kqz39wavcxvx
Tranquilitas 8B+ Kentmere (but you need 8C strength to do it apparently!)
-
Only in 1 arm!
-
Gonna be a crazy vid .... :popcorn:
-
Good to see from the comments that there’s at least one disciple of the G left!
So Aidan basically did all of his projects in around a week? That’s so cool. I wonder if having people around to try them with rather than climbing on his own helped!
-
Birthday today according to FB
22.
He must be on top of the world
-
A little teaser to whet your appetite.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mYPEhSvrPM
-
Finally! Looking good.
:bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:
-
So flipping psyched!
-
How did this end up being a Lattice thing?
-
How did this end up being a Lattice thing?
He's a lattice client and we paid to put the film together, ergo it has a lattice logo on it.
-
Ah that’s interesting, I always thought that Aidan sorted himself out with some fatherly style advice from Dan V. How long has he been with Lattice?
-
How did this end up being a Lattice thing?
2025 - one year on from Paris 2024. The last group of rebels are defending Cloggy, their final citadel, from an onslaught of Lattice Products. All will be consumed. All will be Lattice.
-
He's a lattice client and we paid to put the film together, ergo it has a lattice logo on it.
Very pleased this is free, nice one! However:
Christmas Eve-Eve (22-12-2020)
Surely the 22nd is Christmas Eve Eve Eve?! :blink:
-
Ah that’s interesting, I always thought that Aidan sorted himself out with some fatherly style advice from Dan V. How long has he been with Lattice?
Can't discuss details but he hasn't been with us long and was no punter when he started.
-
He's a lattice client and we paid to put the film together, ergo it has a lattice logo on it.
Very pleased this is free, nice one! However:
Christmas Eve-Eve (22-12-2020)
Surely the 22nd is Christmas Eve Eve Eve?! :blink:
Was about to post that. Not sad. The closer to today it is the better haha.
-
If Barrows and Littlefair are level 9 Lattice agents. What does that make Aidan? :-\
-
If Barrows and Littlefair are level 9 Lattice agents. What does that make Aidan? :-\
NExT-Gen WAD programme - still in evaluation phase.
-
Barrows and Littlefair were universal soldier to Aidens Bourne?
-
Well if anyone wants a film of someone cranking on small holds on steep ground and cutting loose, that certainly seems to fit the bill!
-
Argh, I'm going to have to rewrite the Gullich Legacy at this rate...
-
How did this end up being a Lattice thing?
2025 - one year on from Paris 2024. The last group of rebels are defending Cloggy, their final citadel, from an onslaught of Lattice Products. All will be consumed. All will be Lattice.
The Borg cube had a Lattice structure. It makes you think, doesn't it?
-
How did this end up being a Lattice thing?
2025 - one year on from Paris 2024. The last group of rebels are defending Cloggy, their final citadel, from an onslaught of Lattice Products. All will be consumed. All will be Lattice.
The Borg cube had a Lattice structure. It makes you think, doesn't it?
So does salt... does this mean Lattice is hard, square, and bad for your health? [apologies to Terry Pratchett]
-
[The last group of rebels are defending Cloggy, their final citadel, from an onslaught of Lattice Products. All will be consumed. All will be Lattice.
We are many, we are Lattice.
-
A little teaser to whet your appetite.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mYPEhSvrPM
Topgun?! :no:
-
Aiden has put on his Instagram page that he’s now part of Catalyst Climbing. Coaching and training climbers.
:popcorn:
-
All we need now is a quote from Harry Redknapp, sat in his Range Rover, and transfer window will be complete.
-
Aiden has put on his Instagram page that he’s now part of Catalyst Climbing. Coaching and training climbers.
:popcorn:
to be honest I thought he already was, given how many times I have seen him pop up in various youtube videos with a catalyst vest on. A rising opposition to the Lattice superpower and the zealots of the cult of Midtbo perhaps...
-
All we need now is a quote from Harry Redknapp, sat in his Range Rover, and transfer window will be complete.
(https://i.imgflip.com/4ql11u.jpg)
-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATE-tZo12mg
-
Ace. That’s tonight’s after child bath/bedtime treat for me.
-
Just said the same thing on FB. Wait 'til they are fast asleep, one the big telly with sound on properly. And a dram.
-
OMG what a lovely fella. Him and Jim Pope, the future’s in safe hands.
Great film.
-
That was very good. Enjoyed Varians philosophical musings a lot. Great footage throughout. Only criticism is Dan not explicitly calling Gaskins out :lol: :worms:
-
Yep brilliant stuff, enjoyed especially that all the ascents were uncut and basically mobile phone footage rather than over-produced high tech stuff.
Great musings about enjoying what's close to home, resonates a lot with me and provides an interesting contrast to Ben Moon in Stone Love, saying you have to travel to test yourself against boulders overseas.
Needs an outtakes film with all the other stuff he did! Anyone know what Mighty Midget is?
-
Anyone know what Mighty Midget is?
Mark Katz?
-
Enjoyed that, not at all what I was expecting. Very well made film.
-
Anyone know what Mighty Midget is?
Mark Katz?
Jack?
-
Could be the direct exit to big boy beaves maybe, couldn't see anything else resembling that on the list/in the film and heard he had done a direct version of that
-
Great film. What a ledge.
-
Well good. Really enjoyed that. Complete beast.
-
Excellent! If Aidan can bring himself to travel in future I would love to see him tested against more world famous hard problems. Perhaps the hardest of them all - burden of dreams would suit him?
Out of curiosity, I wonder who the other top 5 crimpers in the world might be? Ondra? Megos? Woods?
-
Nalle Hukkataival and Dai Koyamada would be contenders. Probably Giuliano Cameroni too?
-
What a great film, loved everything about it, well done everyone involved.
My only regret is I've never actually seen any of the problems in person to contemplate how hard they really are. (Except the Bowderstone one).
-
Great film, great climbing and a really impressive view of a bigger picture. As already said, feels like the future is in good hands.
Really appreciated some of Dan’s broader musings on lifestyle.
Nice one all round.
-
What a refreshingly good film. Nice story - great people - great climbing. The story and the personalities made the film rather than relentless drone shots etc..
👏👏
(Though I Did get arsed off with the adverts / maybe it’s how I watched it on the tv having to pause a few times..)
-
Yeah but the ads were a small price to pay for a film of this quality being freely available. Really enjoyed it, inspiring stuff!
-
I immediately had to stop watching it when I saw the second add start withing 3minuets of the first and just used an add blocker. Way to jarring to watch with adds.
-
yep, minor inconvenience for watching on a decent telly that doesn't have an ad blocker. Could skip after a few seconds.
-
Awesome film with great footage and interviews. A really interesting window into a different philosophy.
Ads let me get up and make a brew.
-
Yeah but the ads were a small price to pay for a film of this quality being freely available. Really enjoyed it, inspiring stuff!
Agreed, a small price to pay for such quality.
-
Yeah - just used to climbing films not having them I guess! I had to pause abs come back to it 3 or 4 times (child bedtime stuff) and it seemed to give me new adverts every time I restarted... probably different if I watched it all the way through.
-
This won't work on TVs and I'm not sure about other devices. It does work on my android phone.
Play the video. Take the scroll bar marker all the way to almost the end of the film. About 10 secs before the end or something like. Wait for the video to end. Cancel any auto play next video if necessary and click the play again icon to play the desired video again and there should be no little yellow ad break markers on the scroll bar and you can watch add free. :2thumbsup:
-
I can't believe people are moaning about ads.
-
Great film btw. :popcorn:
-
I really don't know why but i didn't have any ads?
Watched on my android device but cast it onto my tv. Not sure why this would make a difference but hopefully it might work for others?
On the topic of ads i agree it is a reasonably small price to pay for something of this quality however its not just things of quality that have ads and somethings are getting unwatchable!
-
I can't believe people are moaning about ads.
Yeah - it’s like when people only focus on one niggle in an overwhelmingly effusively positive post 😁
-
I can't believe people are moaning about ads.
Yeah - it’s like when people only focus on one niggle in an overwhelmingly effusively positive post 😁
Thats not the point, moaning about something thats free, and has a few small ads that you can just skip easily.
Guess ads just didnt bother me.
-
I really don't know why but i didn't have any ads?
Watched on my android device but cast it onto my tv.
Do you run ublock or similar on your Android browser by any chance?
Ublock is the only way I've found to consistently get around their intrusive ads.
I used to run a pihole to block their ad server at the router. But that stopped working when they moved their ads on to the same server as their content.
-
Should really have said how much i enjoyed it and how impressed I was with both aidan and dan. More importantly than the climbing they both come across as very nice humble individuals and are clearly both world class boulders!
Not sure about dans topgun quotes but certainly put a smile on my face. I think we need more classic 80s film references in our climbing films!
-
Thats not the point, moaning about something thats free, and has a few small ads that you can just skip easily.
Guess ads just didnt bother me.
And you’re now the proud owner of a new fondue set, a family size SUV and have changed your pension provider ;D
Edited to say I enjoyed the film
-
Great film. Has everything that a bouldering film needs and nice bit of chat as well. The lakes is a special place.
Ads are a bit annoying but it’s a free platform and allows the content makers to get paid and therefore make better stuff so all good by me.
-
I really don't know why but i didn't have any ads?
Watched on my android device but cast it onto my tv.
Do you run ublock or similar on your Android browser by any chance?
Ublock is the only way I've found to consistently get around their intrusive ads.
I used to run a pihole to block their ad server at the router. But that stopped working when they moved their ads on to the same server as their content.
I don't run an ad blocker that i know about. I get the ads if i watch the vids solely on my phone but didn't get them yday when i 'smartviewed' it on to the tv?
-
Not sure about dans topgun quotes but certainly put a smile on my face. I think we need more classic 80s film references in our climbing films!
Definitely. I think he also called Greg C the pariah, did he mean that or did he mean messiah?
-
A great film, the lad is so strong on small holds! Very impressive climbing, editing and interesting commentary from all involved.
The whole using gaskins / shadow play as a bench mark is a bit of a joke though imo
-
The whole using gaskins / shadow play as a bench mark is a bit of a joke though imo
I guess that's the other side of the 'stay local' coin. If you go to rocklands, colorado, font, frankenjura etc. and realise all your 8Bs are harder than everyone else's 8B+s then you probably need to recalibrate your grade-o-meter.
ed: not saying there isn't a lot of value in staying local of course. Grades being secondary to enjoyable climbing experiences n all that.
-
The whole using gaskins / shadow play as a bench mark is a bit of a joke though imo
Yeah it's a bit nonsensical now. I get how it would have been an influence back in the day but that time has surely passed.
Fair enough to have a benchmark, but an unrepeated and probably impossible problem isn't it.
-
Not sure about dans topgun quotes but certainly put a smile on my face. I think we need more classic 80s film references in our climbing films!
Definitely. I think he also called Greg C the pariah, did he mean that or did he mean messiah?
Yeah I noticed this too. Didn't really know what he meant by it so I just put it down to his sense of humour or some kind of in joke.
-
There’s another thread for the gaskins stuff, let’s keep this one for Aidan.
We can move on now though as his 8C+ is the UK’s new benchmark and we can use that to grade everything else.
-
his 8C+ is the UK’s new benchmark and we can use that to grade everything else.
It didn't look 8C+ to me. I watched it a couple of times to make sure too.
-
It didn't look 8C+ to me. I watched it a couple of times to make sure too.
I couldn't tell, it was all too obscured by his shoulders/biceps.
-
his 8C+ is the UK’s new benchmark and we can use that to grade everything else.
It didn't look 8C+ to me. I watched it a couple of times to make sure too.
Probably because it might be 9A
-
Definitely. I think he also called Greg C the pariah, did he mean that or did he mean messiah?
Greg had to drag the lakes scene from being a fragmented word of mouth scene of piss taking retro claiming locals to being a documented bouldering area all on his own. developing and documenting areas on his own all off his own back only to be shot down with a bevvy of retro claims whenever he wrote up a new area (the hardest part of development is the admin, otherwise its just going climbing for the enjoyment of it). One spin off of this lakes history is that if you open the lakes guide you'll notice there are no first ascents on any of the problems as it was much better just to get rid of them than attempt to document the history of all the various areas. I'm not suzie dent so couldn't think of the perfect term off the top of my head but my point was is that Greg put alot of solo effort in whilst taking plenty of needless flak for a long time to get to where we are nowadays, but it really really helped drag the lakes scene into gear to get where we are now. The spin off of Gregs own great developments are lines like copperlines stand and low, arguably the best line of the film, which greg found and shared once the guide got published. tbh it needed more than a one word phrase. "point man" maybe (out in front but also getting pot shots)
Re the grading comments, don't worry your couched bottoms. Im more than happy to regrade my problems once they get repeated if they need it (often easier beta plays a far bigger role).I think Aidan was on crescendo this summer and smashed out a bunch of my other problems like Funkotron in the film.
All grading makes sense to reference local area problems first. if three 8bs are next to each other at a crag they should reference each other first, if one tied to colorado 8B grades and one tied to me climbing 8B in font and the other one was unrepeated but years older than the rest. theyd be way more all over the shop than just referencing how close we are to the first unrepeated one that was nearby. Personally i'd always reference grades in locality and development order. This isnt just a sign of respect to the local area but logical. obviously if people lie then it wrecks it all to become beyond farce. Bleau has the most consistent grades in the world thanks to the massive local scene. I see the top end of uk grading as massively susceptible to error due to lack of crossover between people doing each others problems countrywide and mainly johns historical influence. If aidan had chosen to take into account Johns grades he couldnt possibly give anything harder than 8B+ that he did this summer which was just too bonkers. i think John should stand by it and explain/ prove it along with his other 8C's as well as how he effortlessly repeated Si o connors lies at kentmere, he is very much the main player in the uk from 2002 up to now, 18 years! As i had established around 150 font 8's before i fully concreted my opinion and the ramifications of Johns interview answers i cant be arsed to go back and regrade them all (thats all i am saying in the film), as at least at the moment they're fairly consistent. Its all very well to sit there with hindsight but i've always tried to give my peers a fair shout, Johns approach just curveballed that ethos and its not like anyone else was ever that arsed to try and help me pin down key points that'd help with whether he's truthful or lying and whether to take his problems out the equation. (simons questions in the interview were by far the biggest help from another person in shedding light on his problems). I'd much rather let the next generations opinion help with it all and I think Aidan is a good example of the type of top end world class role model i've always looked forward to seeing in the UK. Regardless of Johns truth vs lies, just his "shadowplay" tactics -and his total elusiveness for the past 15years make him a really shitty peer to be metaphorically stood next to when trying to figure out the benchmarks at the top end of UKB. Its taken a lot of work mostly off my own back and with Aidans opinions as help to unpick the areas where suspicion outweighs trust. As a final point on this (because many people are sick of it) I'd recommend just watching worldclass, then fire over to Gone are the days of the G on doylos channel (for the bants). Then watch the only uncut footage of john climbing available on the web here (one of the problems ended up being dave fitz's first ever FA Snake eyes, 8A,): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuTTR6zIy8g totally ignoring grades etc, i personally see john as being that good at climbing, and will wait for more vids from john for him to prove he was a far stronger and greater mover on rock than that, and better than anything the UK has ever seen. hopefully the difference in movement skill/ style on rock is fairly apparent even from the couch coach view. ping between those uncut footage vids. As a bit of money where mouth is personal ascents heres some uncut footage of me climbing the alchemist (lakes/ "G" 8A+) https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/33977773295/in/dateposted/ I've climbed around 60-70 8's in font and have other decent reference points from the USA, Italy, Norway, Swiss, Jura. Either way I stand by my fairly no brainer point in that grades local to the area matter the most when referencing FAs and play a huge part of the history of the area. Aidans lakes grades are sandbagged compared to a lot of world areas, but they're also in a style that suits him more at the mo than somewhere like font. They'd suit people good in japan or colorado by the looks of it more than a good bleausard. We can disregard G 8C fairly now i feel based on the weight of history and the current swing of trust; however my past ascents dont disregard them, due to the timestamps and what we knew and thought of as a local community at that time. Eitherway, if you get strong, Aidans problems are totally doable as demonstrated by the uncut footage (me and Jack have repeated some of his lower 8's in the film from this summer) and the lakes has plenty more to tell yet. Its a really exciting time and i feel the film captures that fresh new feel of the latest generation in the sport perfectly. give me more of that anyday for psyche and inspiration.
-
Great explanatory post as usual Dan. If you managed to do paragraphs it would be a... World Class post ;)
-
There’s still plenty of bog roll on the shelves if you need to clean that nose Matt
-
Totally makes sense about keeping grading in the area accurate within the scope of the area.
the point was highlighting that the grades are going to be out if the ‘G’ is the reference (that’s a compliment if anything as it most likely means the sandbag express has rolled through the lakes and the blocs are even harder than stated!)
I guess the only way to really iron out the grades is for people to repeat and give honest opinions based on their personal experience, unfortunately there are very few on the planet who could really give accurate thoughts except for a handful of people strong in that style or perhaps the MellowCru.
The films amazing the Climbing’s inspiring as hell, it was merely a comment to suggest that comparatively across the globe the grades will be out (it only bothers me in the sense if I walk an hour to a crag to try problem X that’s ‘within my grade range’ only to find its two or three grades out I’d be disappointed as time is a precious commodity for most - I’m to fat and weak to try any of aidans blocs as an obvious point)
Again the lads a mutant and a nice guy the film is Fabulous, it’s just a passing comment.
If you liked Doyle initial G film I recommend a viewing of his latest addition.
I’ll return myself (fresh from cleaning a handful of new blocs and a two hour board session) to sitting on my couch.
-
I thought it was brilliant, and a very nice portrait of stunning Lakes boulders.
I did think that the title jarred slightly with the extremely British (and polar opposite of golden era Jerry) imposter syndrome vibe. I think it would've made more sense if they'd called it A Handful of What Might Be Really Quite Hard Boulders in England, or Nine FAs and some Numerals.
Or maybe just Aidanimal...
-
It’s no surprise to me Aidan went on to great things. I was in the training room at Kendal years ago and Greshy was testing Aidan: “ oh Aidan these scores are through the roof”. He’s a very sincere bloke so when he said that my ears pricked up.
-
Or maybe just Aidanimal...
Aid climbing
-
I did think that the title jarred slightly with the extremely British (and polar opposite of golden era Jerry) imposter syndrome vibe. I think it would've made more sense if they'd called it A Handful of What Might Be Really Quite Hard Boulders in England, or Nine FAs and some Numerals.
Or maybe just Aidanimal...
I thought that was a reference to the quality of climbing rather than just Aidan himself, the bit where he was talking about there being no need to travel because there were things as good as Colorado etc.
-
It was the way it was suffixed by his name, rather than: The Jolly Nice Lake District...
He obviously is though, so it’s quite apposite.
I would like to see a prequel called Worldclass: The Legend of Jerry Moffatt
-
Really enjoyed that, very inspiring.
-
If ever someone that good starts operating in North Wales they will be spoilt for choice for hard projects. I'll even write them a list!
We've got some useful lads (DC, Katz, Ducko, Luke Fletcher, Pete Robins etc) but nothing like Aidan's level, yet.
-
Or maybe just Aidanimal...
Aid climbing
Brilliant!
-
Really enjoyed that, very inspiring.
Couldn't agree more. Excellent 👌
-
Totally makes sense about keeping grading in the area accurate within the scope of the area.
the point was highlighting that the grades are going to be out if the ‘G’ is the reference (that’s a compliment if anything as it most likely means the sandbag express has rolled through the lakes and the blocs are even harder than stated!)
I guess the only way to really iron out the grades is for people to repeat and give honest opinions based on their personal experience, unfortunately there are very few on the planet who could really give accurate thoughts except for a handful of people strong in that style or perhaps the MellowCru.
The films amazing the Climbing’s inspiring as hell, it was merely a comment to suggest that comparatively across the globe the grades will be out (it only bothers me in the sense if I walk an hour to a crag to try problem X that’s ‘within my grade range’ only to find its two or three grades out I’d be disappointed as time is a precious commodity for most - I’m to fat and weak to try any of aidans blocs as an obvious point)
Again the lads a mutant and a nice guy the film is Fabulous, it’s just a passing comment.
If you liked Doyle initial G film I recommend a viewing of his latest addition.
I’ll return myself (fresh from cleaning a handful of new blocs and a two hour board session) to sitting on my couch.
Maybe you should go to the lakes to try these blocs? Only then could you truly assess yourself and find a position within the hierarchy. After starting to read that world class post I realised there was no need... a chant was raised and floated gently through the evening air ‘the king is dead, long live the king, the king is dead, long live the king’ and much bog roll was used.
-
Yeah that was a cool film. As an outsider to both Lakes bouldering and proper hard bouldering full stop I enjoyed it a lot more than I expected. I agree with the comment (way) above about phone footage to the extent that it’s great to see authentic uncut film of the actual ascents but in the case of the phone-in-shoe style clips earlier in the film, when you’re watching someone path a problem that you can’t gauge the angle or the size of the holds of properly and don’t have prior knowledge of it then it might as well be 6b+ as 8b+. I got a lot more idea of what I was really watching from the ascents where the camera was moving.
Biggest strength of the film I thought was that the talking heads were limited to climbers right in his peer group- I was expecting people like Randall or Gresham repeatedly foaming about the guy’s talents in the mould of many of these “isn’t this kid good?” flicks but by restricting the job to people who were more reticent in that department it was way more watchable than I expected. Biggest weakness was that apart from the mention of Gaskins & grades the story is essentially told in the first ten minutes and the rest is just an aesthetic Lakes problems/ hard ascents pr0no with a really fucking hard one toward the end. Probably the best way to do it though- I certainly had more appetite for that than another “Ken Burns-style panning across childhood training photos” doc!
-
and the rest is just an aesthetic Lakes problems/ hard ascents pr0no with a really fucking hard one toward the end.
This is pretty much what I signed up for!
-
Yeah that was a cool film. As an outsider to both Lakes bouldering and proper hard bouldering full stop I enjoyed it a lot more than I expected. I agree with the comment (way) above about phone footage to the extent that it’s great to see authentic uncut film of the actual ascents but in the case of the phone-in-shoe style clips earlier in the film, when you’re watching someone path a problem that you can’t gauge the angle or the size of the holds of properly and don’t have prior knowledge of it then it might as well be 6b+ as 8b+. I got a lot more idea of what I was really watching from the ascents where the camera was moving.
If only it including footage of Varian and Jack trying the problems and getting spat off, that would certainly add some difficulty perspective to them.
-
I would love to see/hear Jack and Dan commentating (together) on the Olympic climbing.
Please make it happen 🤞
-
Another one that slipped under the radar. FA of 'Ebbing the Flow' at Biblins cave https://www.instagram.com/p/CK9TXiBD47v/
Not aware of a grade, but it was mooted as an ~8B project and given the amount of time James Squire has spent down there I imagine he's put some time in to it.
-
Another one that slipped under the radar. FA of 'Ebbing the Flow' at Biblins cave https://www.instagram.com/p/CK9TXiBD47v/
Not aware of a grade, but it was mooted as an ~8B project and given the amount of time James Squire has spent down there I imagine he's put some time in to it.
It's another one that sits in the "hard as fuck" category and there's a reason it hadn't been done before.
Might be wrong but I seem to remember James suggesting it could be about 8B+ at one point a year or two ago.
Also interestingly I was always of the thought it'd be a sit start, was somewhat surprised with how he started it. Probably adds about 2 trickyish moves, but not all that good moves (I think...)
-
Looks like an onsight, or as though he's hardly practiced the moves anyway.
-
The gop had its pants pulled down last night, crazy performance inc a flash of paper birds..
https://youtu.be/KhKviiuJngc
-
Strong scenes! :weakbench:
Makes the Gop look much better than when I last looked at it.
Nice to see Mr Stoopid too...
-
'kin hell. That was filmed over the last two years right..
-
'kin hell. That was filmed over the last two years right..
It was just the same problem filmed form 7 different angles, no?
-
Jesus. Fucking. Christ.
I cannot help but quote Pantera: another level of confidence and power.
-
Jesus. Fucking. Christ.
I cannot help but quote Pantera: another level of confidence and power.
I’ve never seen anyone that strong at board style problems, very strong indeed
-
Jesus. Fucking. Christ.
I cannot help but quote Pantera: another level of confidence and power.
I’ve never seen anyone that strong at board style problems, very strong indeed
I often find vids of really strong climbers leave me a bit flat - I think it's because what the climbers are doing seems so far beyond what will ever be possible for me - but this has got me well psyched!
-
Probably the most English 7a moves ever done in a sesh. Or that could be a Dawes on a top rope project on grit.
-
That statically done move at 3.43, done statically, is mad. Looks like he's actually levitating with some strange power
(...G-power?)
-
Amazing stuff, great video. This stuff is way more interesting than some random Mellow bloc I've never heard of. Surely the Pill Box problem beckons?! :boxing:
-
Jesus. Fucking. Christ.
I cannot help but quote Pantera: another level of confidence and power.
I’ve never seen anyone that strong at board style problems, very strong indeed
I often find vids of really strong climbers leave me a bit flat - I think it's because what the climbers are doing seems so far beyond what will ever be possible for me - but this has got me well psyched!
It was quiet odd, I was more surprised when he fell off things tbh.
I climb with strong guys all the time and think it’s important to understand that your ambitions/situation/ability etc are all different and to try draw the psyche from the crush rather than feeling dismayed (which could happen very easily) and apply it to what you want to achieve
-
It was quiet odd, I was more surprised when he fell off things tbh.
I climb with strong guys all the time and think it’s important to understand that your ambitions/situation/ability etc are all different and to try draw the psyche from the crush rather than feeling dismayed (which could happen very easily) and apply it to what you want to achieve
Wise words owlo. It's good if you can look at climbing feats and think "what could I learn / take from that / be inspired by / bring into my own climbing at 7B / 6B / 5B". Even if it's just something like "train on a board a bit more" ;). It's why I like watching the Ondra because his passion and focus and fascination with climbing is something identifiable with and inspiring irrespective of level.
-
Also dat neck
-
Aidan's movement inspires me. For both feet and hands, to my eye at least, it appears as though he tends to briefly pause before latching a hold, so as to get it perfectly, then confidently drives through it with full power, no adjusting necessary.
-
Honestly that one video was more impressive than everything I've seen at the Olympics so far. Upgrade to AidanSuperWad?!
-
Honestly that one video was more impressive than everything I've seen at the Olympics so far. Upgrade to AidanSuperWad?!
That’s cos it’s the Gop and comps are shit.
-
Nice vid of Hustled SDS here. It looks like absolute filth.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUj_ApZfodg&t=683s
-
I can't unsee Jim's dancing.
-
Are all the wads just young and hairless these days, or is waxing de rigueur?
-
Are all the wads just young and hairless these days, or is waxing de rigueur?
Puberty’s dragging its feet.
-
Are all the wads just young and hairless these days, or is waxing de rigueur?
Puberty’s dragging its feet.
:lol:
Went for a sports massage the yesterday (what the fuck else do you do when your gf has gone back home to Amsterdam, nightclubs are shut and....well.....) and was thinking - bet she'd like this more if she wasn't battling the man rug!
-
Aidan's repeated Liam Fyfe's The Origin at Dinas rock, confirmed at 8B+.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CSTzX-KDM5u/?utm_medium=copy_link
-
Aidan's repeated Liam Fyfe's Eliot Stephen's The Origin at Dinas rock, confirmed at 8B+.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CSTzX-KDM5u/?utm_medium=copy_link
-
Bit weird to put up a vid of falling 4 moves before the finish and not mention it?
-
Bit weird to put up a vid of falling 4 moves before the finish and not mention it?
Unless he's recently added it, his post does say
Satisfied to have battled my way up this climb after dropping the top moves a few times earlier in the day as seen.
which seems fairly clear?
-
I may have missed it but I didn't notice the "as seen" bit earlier
-
He did the FA’s of two low travs on the bowder last week, one in either direction both staying low all the way, one finishing up picnic and the other move man. The right to left one has a brutal section just after half way. Few moves that are well into the 8s on their own.
Miles harder than any of the existing long things on the stone so far. All looked so easy. A project in the hills too. Wedge footage to follow.
-
Sounds mint. Was that the boulder you mentioned to me Tuesday last week? If so, glad to hear the weather played out!
-
Yeah that’s the one but we bailed on that day. Weather was dodgy and it’s a big walk. Hope you found some dry stuff.
Stone stuff was so smooth. First go first ascenting! Shows both how good he is at executing and improvising, as well as how easy all this stuff is for him.
-
Had Aidan done Dan V’s hard one on the back of the stone?
-
Sweet, presume he has done the project at Dove? Well good, pretty hardcore venues in the Lakes these days!!
Sit to dark edges would be good!
-
Had Aidan done Dan V’s hard one on the back of the stone?
Nah he hasn’t done Crescendo, unrepeated afaik. Varian B+, so almost guaranteed to be ridiculous from the off.
I’m hoping Dan gives something 8C this winter and maybe lakes grades can start getting tidied up from there.
Sitter to dark edges would be cool for sure, same for the sitter to crescendo. That’s the last of the stuff to do on there now really.
-
Sweet, presume he has done the project at Dove? Well good, pretty hardcore venues in the Lakes these days!!
Sit to dark edges would be good!
Yeah Dove. Did goldfinger too yesterday.
-
Thanks Jack. Is his left to right basically an extension of your 300kg traverse?
Sounds like he needs to stop messing about on the ladder face linking easy moves together and get on the hard moves 😄
-
Yeah that’s basically it. He stayed low all the way though, climbing almost downwards from the opera stand start holds, which is what I did on the FA of the stand and finishing up power pinch, I later found out you didn’t need to do that and could meet PP higher up so did that for the sitters I added. The other direction is more impressive imo, it has a nails section that I think only him and Dan have linked into anything (flipnic).
-
Could the right to left extend into coming up for air?
-
Does that start on the crack face? If so then yeah, you could even start right round the back to the left of special cases.
-
Does that start on the crack face? If so then yeah, you could even start right round the back to the left of special cases.
Out of interest, where did he start the left to right one? Gaskins apparently did it from the shield (start of spring chicken) many years ago………!! (How many dots would you like :lol:)
-
Does that start on the crack face? If so then yeah, you could even start right round the back to the left of special cases.
Out of interest, where did he start the left to right one? Gaskins apparently did it from the shield (start of spring chicken) many years ago………!! (How many dots would you like :lol:)
Erm yeah not that far left. Aidan started as per picnic left hand. Don’t think enough dots exist.
Can you imagine doing the shield start into the trav and then move man ffs? I was blowing out my arse on the link you did which starts in a similar place then just finishes up hot air. Can’t fathom climbing into picnic left hand and then doing a probable 8B from there and after all that it not even being properly recorded.
300 kilo weights indeed.
-
Video's up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfDi36fpIPg
-
:wub: JIMMY :wub:
Am I right in thinking that Wedge is an off-shoot / re-brand of Lawson Beta Productions who virtually pioneered the unwatchable choppy cuts and naff editing bollox in the UK?? And now they're doing stuff like this which is so enjoyably calm, down-to-earth and clear?? Really good stuff, I like the refreshing simplicity of it, good footage, good fun banter, chilled music. These really let the climbing and vibes of the days out speak for themselves, even the "Tor Of The North" bowderstone footage was fun, especially the slab finish. And plenty enough Jimmy which was great.
-
the "Tor Of The North" bowderstone
You take that back! :chair:
Yes Wedge is essentially Sam, who was the main videographer behind Lawson Beta anyway. Was going to say it really is brilliant to have him keen to follow Aidan, Jim, etc. around documenting their ascents. Fantastic footage / editing.
Incredible climbing again from Aidan. Just so much control!
-
All the videos on the channel are really well made, but this year they've been getting better and better. Great to be able to see the stuff Aidan + Jim have been doing, in such good quality films.
Hope they've got more planned this year - I've been getting used to new videos every week or so, I think we've been a bit spoilt!
-
Saw he went to the cave. Anyone know if he went upto pill box to do the gaskins problem?
-
Saw he went to the cave. Anyone know if he went upto pill box to do the gaskins problem?
Yeah I wonder this, it definitely needs a repeat :whistle:
-
Hey,
Does anyone know what wrist brace Aidan wears?
I get occasional overuse issues between work and climbing , forcing me to tape my wrist.
I tried a somewhat similar looking but thinner brace a while ago, it did not work: too thin.
-
It’s brace for a TFCC tear I think. If you google TFCC tear brace lots come up. I bought one thinking I had this after doing an internet diagnosis on myself :slap: It didn’t work as I have arthritis according to the X-rays and Orthopaedic consultant.
-
Hey,
Does anyone know what wrist brace Aidan wears?
I get occasional overuse issues between work and climbing , forcing me to tape my wrist.
I tried a somewhat similar looking but thinner brace a while ago, it did not work: too thin.
Not sure on his, but I use this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08J7LD1S2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My physio (also a climber) tried it and thought ti was much better than the “proper” one he got from a physio company. Also benefits from being:
1) £13 for two (his was £30 for one)
2) Nice fabric which doesn’t rub at all
3) Available in pink
-
Video's up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfDi36fpIPg
I’ve just watched that with a few sentimental tears threatening to make an appearance. I spent so many hours at the Bowderstone, working away on various things. To see Aidan climbing there is phenomenal, and he is quite literally managing the things I thought were make believe in years gone by. I’ve had to give up bouldering due to injuries, and a failing body, kids, work etc the list goes on. But seeing projects get despatched and the calm way it happens is brilliant. I’m part smiling, part crying. What a funny old place to be.
-
Don't know if this is a recent thing or not but sounds like Aidan has added a sit start to Home, an existing 8B of Dan Varian's at Carrock Fell. I guess it'll be pretty hard!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CUfFeEoDww1/
-
Don't know if this is a recent thing or not but sounds like Aidan has added a sit start to Home, an existing 8B of Dan Varian's at Carrock Fell. I guess it'll be pretty hard!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CUfFeEoDww1/
Aidan has posted about it:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CUh1fdOj9Mk/?utm_medium=copy_link
Allegedly "8B+" if you have 8C+ finger strength.
Not bad for a throwaway try at the end of the session.
-
“Allegedly "8B+" if you have 8C+ finger strength “
Exactly, I read “I hurt my 8C+ fingers on this, then I went home, trained my young and godly fingers some more, then it didn’t feel desperate anymore..”
-
Allegedly "8B+" if you have 8C+ finger strength.
I've never understood this - is it a reasonable way of grading?
This is what he said about Tranquilas (KotT sit)
I’ll propose a very stern 8B+ based on the difficulty when everything is executed perfectly though I feel at least 8C level strength is likely needed in the right hand to make this accessible and avoid some extreme frustration. That being said, some more vertical reach could possibly make the sequence a little less physical.
If you need to be climbing 8C to do it, then why is it not 8C? (The height thing doesn't count IMO, you'd never normally downgrade something just because it can be lanked.)
Getting strong fingers and then saying it's not too bad doesn't mean it's not too bad - it means you need strong fingers to do it!
-
Allegedly "8B+" if you have 8C+ finger strength.
I've never understood this - is it a reasonable way of grading?
This is what he said about Tranquilas (KotT sit)
I’ll propose a very stern 8B+ based on the difficulty when everything is executed perfectly though I feel at least 8C level strength is likely needed in the right hand to make this accessible and avoid some extreme frustration. That being said, some more vertical reach could possibly make the sequence a little less physical.
If you need to be climbing 8C to do it, then why is it not 8C? (The height thing doesn't count IMO, you'd never normally downgrade something just because it can be lanked.)
Getting strong fingers and then saying it's not too bad doesn't mean it's not too bad - it means you need strong fingers to do it!
Young man undergrading syndrome (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31488.msg644813.html#msg644813)
-
I’ll propose a very stern 8B+ based on the difficulty when everything is executed perfectly though I feel at least 8C level strength is likely needed in the right hand to make this accessible and avoid some extreme frustration. That being said, some more vertical reach could possibly make the sequence a little less physical.
If you need to be climbing 8C to do it, then why is it not 8C?
:lol: Just re-reading his grade quote along with your reply, it is complete cobblers!!
-
Allegedly "8B+" if you have 8C+ finger strength.
I've never understood this - is it a reasonable way of grading?
This is what he said about Tranquilas (KotT sit)
I’ll propose a very stern 8B+ based on the difficulty when everything is executed perfectly though I feel at least 8C level strength is likely needed in the right hand to make this accessible and avoid some extreme frustration. That being said, some more vertical reach could possibly make the sequence a little less physical.
If you need to be climbing 8C to do it, then why is it not 8C? (The height thing doesn't count IMO, you'd never normally downgrade something just because it can be lanked.)
Getting strong fingers and then saying it's not too bad doesn't mean it's not too bad - it means you need strong fingers to do it!
I guess what's being said is: If you have 8C+ strength fingers, and then re-climbed a bunch problems in the 8B+ to 8C+ range and ranked them in order of perceived difficulty, this one would go in with the 8B+ problems, as it "appears" easier than te 8Cs.
I kind of get it, because what can feel like a "barrier to entry" type single crimp move probably feels "not to bad" when you have the strength. You could argue this will all climbing movement, but I think the contrast is always more stark with single limit moves.
Doesn't matter anyway, as that's not really how grades work, is it? If 20 x 8B+ climbers can't do it, and only 8C+ ones can, it's 8C+....just a less satisfying one. (or Hard 8C)
-
I guess what's being said is: If you have 8C+ strength fingers, and then re-climbed a bunch problems in the 8B+ to 8C+ range and ranked them in order of perceived difficulty, this one would go in with the 8B+ problems, as it "appears" easier than te 8Cs.
I kinda like this explanation, makes some sort of sense from this point of view. I still don't really like it as a method of giving a grade, bit wordy, but tbh all systems are imperfect, and will break down somewhere in all disciplines (especially at the upper end, as has been discussed relentlessly (anyone fancy an argument about Lexicon again?)). And as someone who will never be able to get off the ground on these boulders, regardless of which grade he gives it, I won't be losing any sleep over it!
As long as Aidan keeps using them strong fingers to climb hard stuff and throw big numbers around, that's good enough for me. And if it comes with confusing grade descriptions, then I guess it's just bonus entertainment.
-
you'd never normally downgrade something just because it can be lanked
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
-
Cos the lanks know full well they get 2 grades lower as default.
-
(https://ibb.co/DK6v2t2)
https://ibb.co/DK6v2t2
Isn't there a really really hard boulder in Finland that's completely Aidan's style.....
-
(https://ibb.co/DK6v2t2)
https://ibb.co/DK6v2t2
Isn't there a really really hard boulder in Finland that's completely Aidan's style.....
:-\ :popcorn:
-
(https://ibb.co/DK6v2t2)
https://ibb.co/DK6v2t2
Isn't there a really really hard boulder in Finland that's completely Aidan's style.....
:o :popcorn:
-
(https://ibb.co/DK6v2t2)
https://ibb.co/DK6v2t2
Isn't there a really really hard boulder in Finland that's completely Aidan's style.....
The conditions to work on it should be perfect for the next few days!
-
who fancies crowd funding his trip in return for a good video? I'd happily contribute a fiver....full refund expected if he doesn't deliver obviously ;)
-
I noticed in Samm_pratt Instagram Story that Aiden is sat under something in Sipoonlahti, which is where Burden of Dreams is.
Hopefully there’s some kind of report soon :bounce: :bow:
-
I noticed in Samm_pratt Instagram Story that Aiden is sat under something in Sipoonlahti, which is where Burden of Dreams is.
Hopefully there’s some kind of report soon :bounce: :bow:
In this week's edition of celebrity stalking, Sam Pratt's insta story seems to indicate he's back in the UK and i'm yet to see a green tick next to a line of really small crimps :'(
-
I think we've been spoiled enough for 1 week
-
Are you sure we aren't just waiting for a huuuuuuge press release? Weeks later, he'll come out with a whole new website to house the various UKC articles and interviews. He's also waiting on Instagram to make a larger green tick emoji, as apparently the current one isn't worthy of V17 :shrug:
-
I noticed in Samm_pratt Instagram Story that Aiden is sat under something in Sipoonlahti, which is where Burden of Dreams is.
Hopefully there’s some kind of report soon :bounce: :bow:
In this week's edition of celebrity stalking, Sam Pratt's insta story seems to indicate he's back in the UK and i'm yet to see a green tick next to a line of really small crimps :'(
I don’t know if Sam was out in Finland? The rest of his photos recently have been of others in Magic Wood etc I think? I’d assumed that Aiden was out there on his Owen/with some other strong Mo-Fo’s independent of Sam’s other trips.
I’m hoping there’s some update to come at least…
-
Apparantly out there with Petts filming but split 4 tips.
-
I don’t know if Sam was out in Finland? The rest of his photos recently have been of others in Magic Wood etc I think? I’d assumed that Aiden was out there on his Owen/with some other strong Mo-Fo’s independent of Sam’s other trips.
I’m hoping there’s some update to come at least…
Sam was there with him; he was kind enough to share some info with me (maybe to stop me badgering him :lol:). And to allow me to also share it here.
Aidan was making good links but then got one of the worst fingertip flappers I've ever seen. Basically a game over type flapper right on the tip of his ring finger.
Sounds like he was doing well on it though! Good progress and making links, which I think must mean all the moves were dispatched. The trees around the block have been felled now, so it's much more open and dries much faster.
That's all I have, who knows whether any footage or other info will emerge.
-
I don’t know if Sam was out in Finland? The rest of his photos recently have been of others in Magic Wood etc I think? I’d assumed that Aiden was out there on his Owen/with some other strong Mo-Fo’s independent of Sam’s other trips.
I’m hoping there’s some update to come at least…
Sam was there with him; he was kind enough to share some info with me (maybe to stop me badgering him :lol:). And to allow me to also share it here.
Aidan was making good links but then got one of the worst fingertip flappers I've ever seen. Basically a game over type flapper right on the tip of his ring finger.
Sounds like he was doing well on it though! Good progress and making links, which I think must mean all the moves were dispatched. The trees around the block have been felled now, so it's much more open and dries much faster.
That's all I have, who knows whether any footage or other info will emerge.
That’s cool! Shame about the flapper! Would be really interesting to hear how it felt verses some of his U.K. accents!
-
I think he only has one UK accent.
-
I think he only has one UK accent.
Hasn’t Aiden put up a bunch of hard things here?
-
I think he only has one UK accent.
Hasn’t Aiden put up a bunch of hard things here?
I think chris was referring to his one ‘accent’ as opposed to his ascents…..
-
I think he only has one UK accent.
Hasn’t Aiden put up a bunch of hard things here?
I think chris was referring to his one ‘accent’ as opposed to his ascents…..
Doh. Too early, need coffee… :oops:
-
I think he only has one UK accent.
I've definitely heard him doing a brummy impersonation
-
I can "do" many, however, they are not mine*
*(Mine is fucked up melange of South African, several English regions and a healthy dose of Aberdeenshire Doric thrown in)
-
FA of Leopold Von Pooch 8C at Carrick fell, sounds like it's a sit start to a problem of Greg's called Leopold Von Buch.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CWyGR6aoW7g/
-
Second picture almost looks like a replica of Jade.
-
Second picture almost looks like a replica of Jade.
Bet it's a hell of a lot harder though!
-
interesting write up about trying Burden of Dreams
https://www.instagram.com/p/CXi3i88NMe_/
https://www.catalystclimbing.com/blogs/climber-diaries/aidan-climbs-the-burden-of-dreams-finland
-
Excellent write ups imo, love hearing about the specificity of the holds and movement
-
Big fan of Aidan and enjoyed this write up.
How long before "3D scanning the holds to CNC replicas at home becomes a new "kneepad assisted downgrades" sort of armchair outrage? I love it.
-
Looking forward to encountering the Burden replica in a damp five an half foot cellar on Vincent Road.
-
Well written article. Let's see what Aidan can achieve now he's decided to stop aimlessly pathing 8C's and train hard instead :o
Anyone know the app? The satellite boulder at Chevin is probably as hard to find in condition as getting to Finland!
-
The technology is probably "structure from motion photogrammetry". Not sure app wise but there are a few options in general on the software front.
-
Good stuff, thanks for the full write-up link 36C.
-
As a slight aside, Aidan mentions something that sounds like a write up of nalle discussing the sisu project. Anyone come across this or got a link?
-
http://nalle-hukkataival.blogspot.com/2010/04/sisu-project.html?m=1
Looks like one of the best bits of rock around
Another pic
https://m.facebook.com/hukkataival/photos/sisu-project/637206316292926/
-
Aidans cleaning up in Brionie, flash of Vecchio 8B amongst the recent ticks
-
ITS their first day, hopefully they'll get good weather over the next few weeks.
Good start.
-
ITS their first day, hopefully they'll get good weather over the next few weeks.
Good start.
Looking mint this week https://www.yr.no/en/forecast/daily-table/2-10389666/Switzerland/Canton%20Ticino/Leventina/Chironico,%20Area%20Boulder
-
Aidans cleaning up in Brionie, flash of Vecchio 8B amongst the recent ticks
Can we get a daily report please? And from what Jim does too….
-
I'll keep an eye on ukc top ascents
-
I saw someone/some people had been cleaning up in Brione, crazy number of >7Cs, and assumed it was them. At least 14 logged in the last two days! Should be a fruitful trip :strongbench:
-
I'll keep an eye on ukc top ascents
Assuming all of those hidden ascents are those two, the sheer volume in two days is mind boggling!
-
I'll keep an eye on ukc top ascents
Does Aidan have a ukc logbook or did Jim flash VL too?
-
the flash is aidan
-
The list grows. Extremely impressive. How long are the lads out there.? I really do hope nothing shuts them down
-
The list grows. Extremely impressive. How long are the lads out there.? I really do hope nothing shuts them down
I think Aidan mentioned a couple of months in an IG post.
-
The list grows. Extremely impressive. How long are the lads out there.? I really do hope nothing shuts them down
I think Aidan mentioned a couple of months in an IG post.
Oh then its safe to say he will tick Switzerland!
-
Sorry I'm not down with the cool kids, can anyone point me to their tick list?
-
Sorry I'm not down with the cool kids, can anyone point me to their tick list?
Have a look at the latest top ascents on UKC. Basically anything 8A and up in Swiss from a hidden logbook is likely one or other of them. E.g. someone did Heritage 8B+ yesterday.
-
Nice one thanks for the heads up. 👍
-
Looks like we should be seeing some footage of the guys in Switzerland on the Wedge channel soon. Gonna have to be a long vid to fit it all in!
-
Two 8Cs done in Swiss including FA of The Kingdom Sit
https://www.8a.nu/news/two-8cs-by-aidan-roberts-and-yannick-flohe-647t5
-
Beasts
-
New addition in Switzerland 'Everything the Light Touches' 8C https://www.instagram.com/p/CbkNG6BNOlT/
-
Sick, great to see
-
Making 8C look 6C. Mutants.
https://youtu.be/eCw02l75etM
-
JFC the size of the holds on that :ohmy:
-
Just another level of raw strength
-
Just another level of indestructible finger pulp!
-
JFC the size of the holds on that :ohmy:
it's ridiculous, absolute jugs on a 3 move 8C
-
JFC the size of the holds on that :ohmy:
it's ridiculous, absolute jugs on a 3 move 8C
Ha I thought that, look like pretty good holds to me! Like a soft 7C on the Depot 50 :lol:
Incredible how easy they make it look though.
-
What a trip so far and they look to be enjoying. Now all they've got to do is turn up the gas and get something hard done ;)
-
Another day another 8C fa https://www.instagram.com/p/Ce_lOtnjh89/
-
Isles of Wonder SS, 8C+. The Uk's new hardest boulder.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgj_Pp2D8SM/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=
-
Another great bit of work from Aidan. I feel like there's loads of buzz around Ogwen at the minute!
-
Awesome, one of the best looking projects I’ve seen, suck a cool line
-
That's mega, very cool to see him and Will taking bouldering in the UK to a new level. Sounds like he had a great time working it out too.
-
Looking forward to the video!
-
8C+ :o
Good effort, LGP, board replica, and all.
-
Quick second ascent of Pete Robins' problem Madame Allure.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgyjkt8jEmb/
-
Some footage by Aidan on an attempt on Alphane. He got close a couple of times getting as far as doing the last hard move but then not getting the left heel/toe in. 7C+ after that.
https://www.instagram.com/p/ChxAu3oj1g5/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
-
I think that Simone Lorenzi has made rapid progress on it too so looks like it will be repeated in, relatively, short order.
Happy to eat my pad if it repels all like Burden.
-
That last bit may ‘only’ be 7C+ but it looks v steep and tenuous, and it’s not like you get to a jug to shake out! Great to see the quality being confirmed by other beasts.
-
If Aidan isn't careful the first repeat of Burden of Dreams might well go to Vadim Timonov...
https://youtu.be/BlBiJNJD1G4
-
Another 8C, him and Bosi churning them out these days.
https://youtu.be/okkyOpLC6UI (https://youtu.be/okkyOpLC6UI)
-
Aidan Roberts & Strong Crew ... & ...
Good stuff, interesting start to that line for sure.
-
That's a pretty dece link on Alphane. Looks like it's from two moves in to the "jugs" which mark the end of the hard hard climbing and the start of the not as hard finish. If I'm not mistaken.
-
Can't really post this in quality vids as I suspect it'll be a bit of an acquired taste cinematically.
However, look at the tension when Aidan does Everything the Light Touches! Incredible.
https://youtu.be/H0HMSamy-AI
-
Imagine doing a boulder and having Shawn Rabatou and Daniel Woods as the reference to make viewers appreciate how hard a move is. Ridiculous from Aidan.
Can't really post this in quality vids...
Nah it's in the right place here, this is the Aidan show :boxing:
-
Holy cow! That is impressivel
-
What I love about Aidan's climbing style is that it's clear how he exerts strength equally through the whole body with excellent control. Whether it's because he's got stronger legs or because he's stronger on the handholds, he has enough stability to place the feet as carefully as he takes the handholds and then drives power through them very effectively. For me this is what sets him apart from the others who do not look like they have control of the positions.
-
Yeah I agree, the level of controlled full body strength is impressive. He's quite a bit more jacked than those other lads too. Beefcake.
-
Think we need to talk about the casual throw of the brush to Matty Hong at the end. Slick.
-
Think we need to talk about the casual throw of the brush to Matty Hong at the end. Slick.
Haha DG as much of a wizard with a brush as he is on the rock!
-
Aidan repeated Alphane today :clap2:
https://open.spotify.com/episode/4IjWe3MH6z0HgMcC0Bj8rv?si=a5fc1751876a407b
(https://open.spotify.com/episode/4IjWe3MH6z0HgMcC0Bj8rv?si=a5fc1751876a407b)
-
:dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
-
Waddage. 7th person to climb 9A I think (or 4th if you think Soudain Seul is 8C+).
-
Top work Aidan. I was excited when I saw this thread had some new replies, figured it could only mean one thing!
-
"It wasn't right at the absolute limit of my capabilities" is an exciting thing to hear from someone who has just done a 9A.
-
Maybe the full circular navigation of the Bowderstone is possible. ooooo what a time to be alive!
-
Just burden of dreams to go then. Wouldn't be a bad tick list
-
https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cj7UDasDY2J/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
"Every move felt quite steady"
:bow:
-
Comment removed as I might be misremembering!
-
“Today I did Alphaaane”
-
Fantastic news!
The 8a.nu describes Aidan as previously having done a "handful" of 8Cs - that seems harsh.
-
Ace news!
Some pics of the right-hand exit he mentions in the podcast:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CV50pMngbN1/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
-
Fantastic news!
The 8a.nu describes Aidan as previously having done a "handful" of 8Cs - that seems harsh.
Aye, big hands. By my count he's at 10 or 11 8C or harder (not including Alphane) depending on whether Ragamuffin is 8B+ or 8C.
-
BTW I messaged him a couple of months ago about Superpower:
“Hi Aidan
Just wondered if you had any retrospective thoughts on the grade of Superpower now you’ve done Isles of Wonder sit or are you happy to keep it at 8C/+ and let others decide?
Best, Simon“
“ Hey Simon, very good question! I think I was quite vague with it initially but compared to the likes of 8Cs and 8C+s I’ve since tried abroad I suspect it likely sits with the latter. But very hard to tell as haven’t been on it since I did it”
-
Just burden of dreams to go then. Wouldn't be a bad tick list
And Sleepwalker Sit.
-
If he sticks to the whole not flying thing that one might be a little trickier?
-
Could go Thunberg and get on a yacht?
-
That's what Sébastien Berthe did (buying an old sailboat) to try Dawn Wall. I'm well impressed by anyone who live by their convictions, at least when I sympathise with them.
-
Indeed. Given the time / money I would try to do similar more.
-
8B and 8C in a day, the latter first try after what sounds like some very brief practice.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CkF-CTAjrOH/
-
Sit start to Vecchio Leone done!
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ck5i4qOjiQ3/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
-
Love how he describes the trip as "exploratory," just checking out a few things ...
-
Sit start to Vecchio Leone done!
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ck5i4qOjiQ3/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Nice wee write-up too.
-
Gets me really psyched to see the lads tearing it up at the moment. So cool.
-
https://youtu.be/InFpmGeaxJc
Not sure if Aidan has flashed 8B+ before? Third Brit to do so I believe, after Will Bosi and Ned Feehally.
-
I'm surprised he's had no stick for climbing wet rock. After all, ambiguity is the enemy of accountability.
-
He's been close a few times (most notably on Foundation's Edge 8C) but this is his first flash of the grade as far as Im aware.
https://climbing-history.org/climber/227/aidan-roberts
-
Love the totally unnecessary beta spray for the juggy moss slab at the end.
-
Love the totally unnecessary beta spray for the juggy moss slab at the end.
Throughout. Would do my head in. Not that i’d find myself in that particular situation mind
-
QuitE ... how do the Yanks concentrate with all that spray in the air? OPeNiNg the moUth is a very judicious process.
HoW the ViewEd is W@tcheD is a very interesting thing ... I'll stop there ... concentration isn't quite what it coulD be ...
-
Looks like Nathan has found some sort of knee on ilse sit based on orin/his story on insta, not sure if the knee is for the stand or sit portion, but seems he's pretty psyched on ilse sitter atm!
-
Well spotted. Probably a similar, but mirrored and way harder, move to that of Wherever I Lay My Hat at Gallt yr Ogof.
-
It's a bit of a knee scum, slows down the movement a lot to get the right hand start hold of the stand totally statically with no grim cut after. But definitely not a chill knee bar!
-
New 8c at Kentmere boulders - Shadow women, it starts with I think the same right hand as shadow play and a different left hand before moving over into little women
-
He's also said LW is likely 8B+ post break I believe?
-
The first tentative steps into shadow play.
-
Thought he'd already tried it and the crux was nonsensical?
-
Thought he'd already tried it and the crux was nonsensical?
Will seemed to think that it would go in his video on it. Granted he said "if you can find the feet", but the general vibe was pretty positive. Dunno how much he actually tried it though.
-
Finding the feet would be a big question, if they exist! That said I'd love for it to be done, so Gaskins' lawyer can release the footage of his FA
-
100 english pounds to the first repeat of shadow play, I'm good for it.
-
I can do you some 'Wayang Kulit' ... bank details to follow : )
-
I love how much mysticism surrounds shadow play considering it looks like absolute shite :lol:
I can’t wait for someone to repeat it so we can all move on with our lives :fishing:
-
It looks like a 3 star banger compared to Il Pirata
-
It looks like a 3 star bangers compared to Il Pirata
Yeah tbf you’re not wrong there haha
-
https://open.spotify.com/episode/0cHKL3jWvp8A4QcZ1LS0YM?si=249e2aff02144125
All the juicy details about Aidan's two new things, Spots of Time (previously the Helvellyn proj) and the midnight ex-project, straight to your ear-holes.
-
On form!!
-
Funny to hear the discussion on UKB described as Sam and Aidan getting broadsides. From what I can gather the fuss was about climbing news being paywalled, which it transpires it never was, and I think people were unanimous in saying that they quite liked Aidan? Storm in a teacup!
-
Funny to hear the discussion on UKB described as Sam and Aidan getting broadsides.
I heard Gen Z snowflakes are unable to concentrate long enough to get through a TikTok video, let alone understand the subtleties of a nuanced written debate around social media, news reporting, commercialisation, professionalisation and how all that relates to climbing up some rocks when it’s not raining…
:chair:
-
Funny to hear the discussion on UKB described as Sam and Aidan getting broadsides.
I heard Gen Z snowflakes are unable to concentrate long enough to get through a TikTok video, let alone understand the subtleties of a nuanced written debate around social media, news reporting, commercialisation, professionalisation and how all that relates to climbing up some rocks when it’s not raining…
:chair:
Ok boomer
-
I don't own a spotify, is there a news report with words and pictures??
-
I don't own a spotify, is there a news report with words and pictures??
You will need to wait for the monthly telegram update via your local telegram messenger
-
Funny to hear the discussion on UKB described as Sam and Aidan getting broadsides.
I heard Gen Z snowflakes are unable to concentrate long enough to get through a TikTok video, let alone understand the subtleties of a nuanced written debate around social media, news reporting, commercialisation, professionalisation and how all that relates to climbing up some rocks when it’s not raining…
:chair:
Well done, Tony. You've proven them right.
-
Funny to hear the discussion on UKB described as Sam and Aidan getting broadsides.
.
I heard Gen Z snowflakes are unable to concentrate long enough to get through a TikTok video, let alone understand the subtleties of a nuanced written debate around social media, news reporting, commercialisation, professionalisation and how all that relates to climbing up some rocks when it’s not raining…
:chair:
Ironically you’d have to listen to an hour and a half podcast to get their nuanced point of view
-
Leaving aside the fact that Tony is surely either trolling or an AI chatbot trained on nothing but Daily Mail comment sections, describing the four or so pages of bollocks in the significant repeats thread as a “nuanced written debate” is comedic genius, given it seemed to largely be people not understanding how Patreon and Discord work.
On the subject of Aidan and Sam being “broadsided”: they started putting out a weekly podcast for free, implemented a paid element in response to demand for it that included a members-only Discord in an attempt to give people good value for money (which, as people have noted, gives them a tiny remuneration while avoiding adverts in the podcast), and then Aidan went on that Discord to discuss with a select group of people what he’d been up to as he valued their thoughts, and word got out. On that basis I think they have every right to feel broadsided by posts like
the suppression of the actual news itself
and
some kind of paid for thing, where you buy your way into their circle of "friends" sworn to secrecy
Yeah yeah, I'm sure some/most/all of it is "just a joke" - but if you have to explain that, maybe it wasn't a very good one. These are the posts that give UKB its rep as a place of crustiness and nasty criticism.
Just in case anyone isn't already on board with Careless Talk: if you want actual nuance I'd highly recommend listening to the latest episode Remus linked to, as well as pretty much every other episode they've put out. At this point I'm basically over climbing podcasts (too many ads and self-important hosts and "tell us how you got into climbing" conversations and myopic focus on specific pieces of training advice), but this one is brilliant.
-
These are the posts that give UKB its rep as a place of crustiness and nasty criticism.
As they say, there's no smoke without fire.
-
On that basis I think they have every right to feel broadsided by posts like
the suppression of the actual news itself
and
some kind of paid for thing, where you buy your way into their circle of "friends" sworn to secrecy
I admit that I found the thread too boring to follow closely, but wasn't this just people talking at cross-purposes because Remus' initial post gave the impression that the news had been paywalled when in fact it hadn't been? I'm sure there were some harsher comments on the thread but the two quotes you've picked there don't even strike me as being nasty - people disagreeing with each other isn't necessarily nastiness (notwithstanding that Tony's post above is obviously quite nasty; there are exceptions).
-
Tony's post here is obviously a joke. My original post about paying a £3 patreon to kick people in the balls was obviously a joke. But no-one can take a joke anymore.
Ironically, the posts Droyd picked out before discussing jokes are obviously not jokes, they're a discussion about the idea of paywalling news or buying into being "discord friends" (to be said in an Inbetweeners voice, obviously) and then being sworn to secrecy. Which it turns out didn't happen (but no doubt will at some point, my money's on Ondra)
Nothing I wrote is really close to what I'd consider a broadside. I've not listened to the podcast yet, but my assumption would be that the choice of word would be a wind up. If so, touche! If not :wall:
-
Tony's post here is obviously a joke.
Was it though? If his past ramblings are anything to go by I’m not so sure…
-
Barrows once again a voice of reason on this forum.
I don't think anyone actually thinks Aiden has done anything wrong now that we know what's happened, and I personally think it's a much more interesting way of getting news than an embargoed article.
Thread split so there can be an actual discussion on Aidan's accomplishments and possibly the most significant FA in Britain in however many years.
-
(Slightly feel like how seriously you take the broadsides comment will reflect how seriously you take yourself whilst in the same breath telling others not to take themselves so seriously.)
Anyway!
Highly recommend the podcast episode, really interesting to hear about the whole process and the feelings behind some of the individual attempts. They wanted to avoid the problem of the grade being front and centre to the point where the climb gets lost, and they nailed it.
Massive kudos to Aidan, possibly two of the most significant FAs in the world in recent years??
-
Will there be a simple explanation of what's happened on UKC at the end of the week ?
-
Thread split so there can be an actual discussion on Aidan's accomplishments and possibly the most significant FA in Britain in however many years.
How dare you suggest such a thing... ;)
Agree - these ascents are massive and i can't wait to see the vids that get made. Hope the one Aiden discusses in the podcast about a possible Patagucci collab goes ahead as the production quality for these is normally top notch (and assuming it would also have the usual Wedge level of quality if Sam is involved too)
In the meantime, is there much out there about the Midnight Proj ? I know next to nothing about this line so keen to learn a bit more about it
-
There is an existing (Wedge??) video of Aidan working The Midnight Project. I remember some discussion about bruised finger tips.
-
I've definitely seen a video of Aidan falling off the midnight project (possibly on the last hard move). I'm pretty sure it was shoe-pod clip that he posted on his insta last year, but I couldn't find it when I had a quick look the other day.
edit: I thought the above comment was a question. Perhaps I was just looking in the wrong place.
-
https://youtu.be/fdChDa78tU4?si=BTMWfYWCd2KoiriH
9min 36sec
-
Looks very cool.
-
He hasn’t graded it, but he did say that when he was attempting a high start he felt that was around 9A and that the low start must be 9A+. He went on to climb the low start but changed his mind about the grade being that high. So remains to be seen!
-
I've definitely seen a video of Aidan falling off the midnight project (possibly on the last hard move). I'm pretty sure it was shoe-pod clip that he posted on his insta last year, but I couldn't find it when I had a quick look the other day.
edit: I thought the above comment was a question. Perhaps I was just looking in the wrong place.
Full clip is on the patreon https://www.patreon.com/posts/aidans-close-go-83500270
-
Full clip is on the patreon https://www.patreon.com/posts/aidans-close-go-83500270
cheers guys (hadn't realised i could scan through all the older uploads on the Patreon to see what was uploaded before i'd signed up... that's a good afternoon at 'work' k.o'd for me ;D)
-
I don’t really get all this agonising over grades.
Sharma had a long period when he didn’t grade anything.
If you’re right at the top of the game then you can do what you like. Aidan is there and his attitude to place/process and all that is refreshing. He maybe doesn’t realise it but he has the potential to really influence how we perceive climbing.
I personally am pretty inspired by his approach and the way he articulates his experiences. I cannot say that about many other top/current climbers, including Ondra. Maybe I’m a bit biased being from the Lakes myself but the bit in the pod about local projects really resonated with me.
He’s a gifted communicator and these recent climbs deserve something long form both written and visual. I thought the Wedge film Mastery was absolutely top notch. Hopefully they can put something else together similar with the help of Patagonia.
-
Great post Tom, I agree with all of that, so nice to have such a good climber who can give a bit more context to their experience and process on these things.
-
Agreed. Have to say it's a bit of a shame there's been so much cynicism around this. I think we're incredibly lucky Aidan is so happy to delve into such detail on his experiences; very rare for someone operating at the absolute top of the game. The podcast is a brilliant resource for anyone interested in these top end performances.
I'm not even sure anyone's said well done to him yet! Just in case; bloody well done Aidan! Properly psyched for you :strongbench: :icon_beerchug:
Particularly amazing to have done the Midnight problem from the lower start too, given just the higher start seemed like it'd be right up with the hardest things around.
-
I don’t really get all this agonising over grades.
Sharma had a long period when he didn’t grade anything.
If you’re right at the top of the game then you can do what you like. Aidan is there and his attitude to place/process and all that is refreshing. He maybe doesn’t realise it but he has the potential to really influence how we perceive climbing.
I personally am pretty inspired by his approach and the way he articulates his experiences. I cannot say that about many other top/current climbers, including Ondra. Maybe I’m a bit biased being from the Lakes myself but the bit in the pod about local projects really resonated with me.
He’s a gifted communicator and these recent climbs deserve something long form both written and visual. I thought the Wedge film Mastery was absolutely top notch. Hopefully they can put something else together similar with the help of Patagonia.
Yeah, I think he’s right that at this point the grades are detracting from the climbs themselves. Certainly the conversation is get skewed. And as I’ve mentioned before the conversation in forums like insta is really vitriolic.
It’s interesting that UKC hasn’t even picked this up as news yet. Maybe they are waiting for comment or words from Aidan, but you’d expect if he had graded them that this would have been instant news flashes. It’s almost like without the grade it doesn’t count.
-
If it's left ungraded then the media will just make up a grade, say if Aidan says its the hardest thing he's done, media will just say it must be 9A then and call it that. I think they're just incapable of abandoning the grade narrative.
-
But, playing devil's advocate a wee bit - people are only interested because it's very hard. And the grade is just a quantification of how hard. It could be a stunning problem, it could be a shit problem - in any case it's too hard for 99.99% of people who follow climbing media to even attempt, so what's the angle of interest if not how hard it is? 'Climber has really profound experience'? That could happen on a VS and it wouldn't be 'news'.
I'm trying to imagine UKC publishing a News Flash titled 'Aidan Roberts Climbs Hard Project'. Guaranteed almost instantly there would be speculation and chat about the grade. So it's not just the media publishers, it's the consumers too.
All this said, I think it's cool to stick two fingers up to the shallowness of the media and do things on your own terms.
-
If it's left ungraded then the media will just make up a grade, say if Aidan says its the hardest thing he's done, media will just say it must be 9A then and call it that. I think they're just incapable of abandoning the grade narrative.
I don't think he really left them completely ungraded, more didnt want to commit to an exact number.
In the podcast he said if he was to put a grade range on Spots of Time it would be 8c+ to 9a and hinted that if forced he probably say 9a but he wasn't sure how much the style suited him (also said he found it took more effort for him than Alphane). Must be one of the very hardest problems in the UK.
On the Midnight project he said it suited him much better and Sam got him to admit that it he thought it would be the harder of the 2 for most climbers. Also seems like quite a few other strong climbers have tried it with him. Sounds proper hard and almost certainly in the 9a range.
Really impressive first ascents by a UK boulderer who's operating right at the top of world standards, exciting stuff. Thought the podcast was well worth a listen, sometimes I find them a little unfocused (though often interesting) but this episode gave a really insight into the climbing of these problems.
-
Climbing media has definitely published news about ungraded things - Tribe springs to mind most immediately.
We as climbers in general are fairly addicted to grades (myself included) I really like how Aidan thinks about all this and has the courage to not reduce these things to grades.
They are clearly hard and I’m sure he will attach a number eventually.
What I also like about Aidan is that he just does his own thing, at his own pace and is only psyched for other people doing their stuff.
He is a process and soul climber through and through and it shows… because he’s not necessarily trying to get to the top. Definitely something I am trying to be better at.
Very deserving to stand on top of these boulders… long May he continue to have great experiences fettling around on minging crimps
-
So it's now been out for a week, free in the public domain via the podcast, (and in the case of Spots of Time, for months via the paid podcast), that Aidan has climbed 2 first ascents this winter, both of which look excellent, both of which were harder for him than Alphane, one is likely the hardest in the UK, the other of which is one of the the hardest in the world.
And nothing on any of the climbing news sites, just because there's no picture and grade on insta? really?
-
I was thinking of posting exactly the same.
In the meantime, freshly released video from last year.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVo-EzWWzP0
-
So it's now been out for a week, free in the public domain via the podcast, (and in the case of Spots of Time, for months via the paid podcast), that Aidan has climbed 2 first ascents this winter, both of which look excellent, both of which were harder for him than Alphane, one is likely the hardest in the UK, the other of which is one of the the hardest in the world.
And nothing on any of the climbing news sites, just because there's no picture and grade on insta? really?
I like how he is controlling his own media, journalism seems so lazy these days and most of the climbing sites just re hash Instagram posts in the guise of news, check UKCs recent ones of Shauna and Dave Mc for classic examples. Until they add something to the story why bother reading it.
Pretty sure there will be a more long form interview, film and comment in time, which i personally prefer.
More importunately we have a likely 9A in the UK (wills not even managed all the moves yet after a few sessions) and a contender for the hardest in the world. Aiden also sounds very close to Burden.
UK boulderers leading the world.
-
I was thinking of posting exactly the same.
In the meantime, freshly released video from last year.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVo-EzWWzP0
Lovely, thanks. Swiss Air looks so amazing, wish it was in my pay grade!
-
I like how he is controlling his own media, journalism seems so lazy these days and most of the climbing sites just re hash Instagram posts in the guise of news, check UKCs recent ones of Shauna and Dave Mc for classic examples. Until they add something to the story why bother reading it.
Fair enough, but do you think he's asked sites not to report these ascents? seems unlikely?
-
I like how he is controlling his own media, journalism seems so lazy these days and most of the climbing sites just re hash Instagram posts in the guise of news, check UKCs recent ones of Shauna and Dave Mc for classic examples. Until they add something to the story why bother reading it.
I've got some sympathy for UKC in particular as they do put out good quality, original content alongside the lower effort stuff like Shauna on Fat Lip recently. It's a tricky balance in the era of instant news because either you put out a quick post with minimal details to get something that's current, or you wait a week for an interview and have a better article, but you're a week too late and nobody cares.
I guess it's not so different to traditional news outlets in a lot of ways. A lot of 'news' these days is articles from a wire agency (reuters etc.) that are lightly re-written for your site of choice.
Having said that I do wish more news sites would lean in to interviews, further research etc. It feels like that's where they can add real value, whereas anyone who wants speedy reporting can just follow people they're interested in on insta.
-
There is no need to read daily updates on climbing news. It's just a bunch of mostly insignificant datapoints. A monthly update is plenty.
I am of the same opinion on general news. Getting the news once a week is already bordeline pathological. Several times per day is psychotic.
Cf https://www.theguardian.com/media/2013/apr/12/news-is-bad-rolf-dobelli
-
But none of this answers the question of why the news sites (UKC in particular, given the UK angle) haven't picked it up? They're clearly not averse to just tweaking and reposting - ie the Shauna Fat Lip repeat another catch heel I see So why would you ignore these ascents? Doing a newsflash brief piece doesn't stop you putting out something more in depth later. These are 2 of the 3 most significant ascent's this winter for UK readership.
-
I don't know the economics but climbing is still quite niche, so I can imagine the 'return' on a news story may not be worth someone reasonably competent/paid spending more than quite a limited amount of time on, even if they could or wanted to.
Even within the niche of climbing, there will only be a small subset of nerds like us who follow and particularly care about news stories like this.
Aside from all that I agree with Duma's point that it's odd no-one has published even just a brief 'newsflash' about this, based on the podcast where the ascents are publicly recounted in detail by the person who made them (i.e. the information is available, public and reliable).
-
UKC's news is more of a content aggregator than it is like, there are rumours of X, we contacted to confirm or deny etc
Like, does anyone working at UKC know of Aidans recent climbs?
-
Duma - there’s been nothing published on UKC about Aidan since August 2022 that hasn’t been lifted off his IG. I suspect you’ll find the same with all the other sites. So difficult for them to publish anything with no photos and just referencing his/Sam’s podcast?
-
Like, does anyone working at UKC know of Aidans recent climbs?
Definitely. At the start of the patreon-only pod about Spots of Time Aidan mentioned that someone from UKC had contacted him about the lakes thing, so guess that would have been around mid-march?
-
Duma - there’s been nothing published on UKC about Aidan since August 2022 that hasn’t been lifted off his IG. I suspect you’ll find the same with all the other sites. So difficult for them to publish anything with no photos and just referencing his/Sam’s podcast?
There's a lovely photo of Spots of Time on the Wedge Patreon Discord ;)
:fishing:
-
So it's now been out for a week, free in the public domain via the podcast, (and in the case of Spots of Time, for months via the paid podcast),
Podcast on Patreon of Spots news was 22nd March, so not quite months yet 😄 Aidan also said on that podcast that UKC had approached him for a story when he’d only told a few people he’d done it. Maybe we will get a nice essay in the next issue of Spotter instead.
-
Full news story up on UKC now.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/04/aidan_roberts_climbs_two_top-end_projects-73655
I spoke to Rob about this and they've known for ages. They've wanted to put this up earlier but were waiting for more info from Aidan which took longer than they'd expected.
There's a longer interview on the way.
-
That's pretty informative. I'll be looking forward to the video of Spots, unless it's paywalled for devoted acolytes only.
-
UKC's news is more of a content aggregator than it is like, there are rumours of X, we contacted to confirm or deny etc
I think that's a bit harsh - IMO they are one of the better sites out there for fact checking and trying to get interviews / more info to add to the bones of the story.
-
And as if by magic:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/04/aidan_roberts_climbs_two_top-end_projects-73655
-
UKC's news is more of a content aggregator than it is like, there are rumours of X, we contacted to confirm or deny etc
I think that's a bit harsh - IMO they are one of the better sites out there for fact checking and trying to get interviews / more info to add to the bones of the story.
Yeah agree, they’ve massively improved their news offerings in the past few years. I’m sure Rob G lurks on here looking for news nuggets, it seems this improvement on the site is thanks to his and his team’s work.
-
Was watching the recently uploaded video of some random steep hard things in some random euro place, and I just wanted to say that it is really rather exciting that we have not one, but two, multiple 9A boulderers come through in the recent couple of years, both inspiring climbers and one of them seems to have the biggest smile in climbing, and basically it's cool, people are pulling hard on small holds :2thumbsup:
-
It'll be interesting to see where Will Bosi thinks Honey Badger and Terranova fit amongst these.
Aidan's got so much specific strength that it might hold Bosi back for a while! We'll see...
-
It'll be interesting to see where Will Bosi thinks Honey Badger and Terranova fit amongst these.
Terranova fits in a jaw crusher to turn it into a nice gravel for someone’s driveway! Seeing this is the Aidan thread, one of my favourite moments on the podcast was Lorenzi saying there was no way he was travelling to try Terranova because it looked so terrible.
-
Seeing this is the Aidan thread, one of my favourite moments on the podcast was Lorenzi saying there was no way he was travelling to try Terranova because it looked so terrible.
This is where those formative years of climbing on grotty UK limestone pay dividends
-
And as if by magic:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/04/aidan_roberts_climbs_two_top-end_projects-73655
Second comment: Shadowplay. Boom. :slap:
-
And as if by magic:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/04/aidan_roberts_climbs_two_top-end_projects-73655
Second comment: Shadowplay. Boom. :slap:
This should form the basis of some sort of drinking game, along with 'what have they done on grit', 'is it as hard as Indian Face?', 'benchmark E0', etc
-
Three Pebble Slab.
-
We are almost as predictable with our scoffing and sneering :lol:
-
And as if by magic:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/04/aidan_roberts_climbs_two_top-end_projects-73655
Second comment: Shadowplay. Boom. :slap:
This should form the basis of some sort of drinking game, along with 'what have they done on grit', 'is it as hard as Indian Face?', 'benchmark E0', etc
When Seb Berthè flashed Le Voyage the first comment was literally "what has he done on grit"
Smh
-
We are almost as predictable with our scoffing and sneering :lol:
But it is just and righteous sneering
-
We are almost as predictable with our scoffing and sneering :lol:
But it is just and righteous sneering
dab
-
We are almost as predictable with our scoffing and sneering :lol:
But it is just and righteous sneering
dab
In the dance move sense or the hitting pad with leg sense?
-
In the hitting the pad sense, in reference to the dabs thread https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4584.0.html
-
https://youtu.be/BVo-EzWWzP0?si=68slPxYUWEosDUMr
In true Aiden style I'm not sure if some or all of these have been reported? Maybe they were done when he was there doing new midnight thing don't know. Great vid though
-
In the meantime, freshly released video from last year.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVo-EzWWzP0
Andy posted it a couple of days ago
-
I think Shurt means reported contemporaneously, as opposed to in a video published months (possibly over a year?) later. Considering that 8C is still perfectly newsworthy especially for a Brit, yet here's two which to my knowledge were completely unknown publicly till now. I don't think even Remus had these on climbing history until this vid!
-
In the meantime, freshly released video from last year.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVo-EzWWzP0
Andy posted it a couple of days ago
Missed that...
-
Anyone able to give odds on whether BODs been done again. short odds on multiple incoming if the weather holds.
-
Aidan and Ryuichi have both dropped the last move recently, so looks likely!
(Source = CT Patreon and Ryuichis instagram)
-
Ryuichi on his 4th day of trying, twice as fast as he did sleepwalker stand, although he hasn't done it yet (unless he did it last month and hasn't said yet).
-
News of Mr Robert’s exploits have now made it as far as Canada:
https://gripped.com/news/aidan-roberts-establishes-two-possible-v17s/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR37Lnvq9nlvjW9nazmPz-eRIWmUjWIkP253x3iNj7NnZfn_kFp5Z3_vAE8_aem_AcUQqV-E2PE9lrHdp_UnWxrony7x-hT-wb8-Uzh458b3CRmJ0Fv8MacbI4bZEF_w8pANdy4Nl3EmjdFpUcth27H9
-
Good to see the mail ship made good time.
-
Has he actually called the Midnight project "Midnight"?
-
No, name pending but he said on the pod he's not gonna call it midnight.
-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ErOBRVIpe8
-
Bosinator here to send your new bloc
-
Lovely video, man psyched to climb a hard rock in the hills on his own with just his video camera for company. Feels more real to me than seeing the group sessions with loads of pads and shouting that seems to happen on lots of hard boulders.
-
Lovely video, man psyched to climb a hard rock in the hills on his own with just his video camera for company. Feels more real to me than seeing the group sessions with loads of pads and shouting that seems to happen on lots of hard boulders.
Yeah, flipping loved that.
-
Officially news now as one of them has had a grade attached to it by Aiden.
UK has its first 9A. I guess that makes the other one as hard so another 9A.
i presume it will now pop up on all the climbing news channels now as there algorithms will spot it.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C7jIhiLN_C0/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
-
Well! I hope to see a repeat from Bosi and a confirmation but this is pretty mega, what a wad.
-
Bosi will probably give it 8C though.
-
https://www.instagram.com/p/C9NjP0LNIum/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Aidan done a thing - anyone shed some light on this? I have no idea where it is
-
Its the thing which was previously called the midnight project before he did it - its in Ticino https://www.instagram.com/aidan.roberts98/p/CtuChLNtivi/
-
Ah gotcha, hadn't made the link between the two
-
Great stuff, how many 9As does that make now?? Big numbers...
-
https://climbing-history.org/list/26/the-hardest-boulder-problems-in-the-world
9?
Wouldn’t be surprised if there are some upgrades and downgrades though. Especially terranova coming up. Clearly totally nails.
-
And two of the three people with the most 9A ticks are Aidan and Will :punk:
-
Hopefully Aidan will manage to safely sail to the states to check out the two there; I think Lorenzi also said he had US plans
-
Sounded like in the Sean Bailey interview on Carless Talk that he's done something new and really hard in the USA. I wondered if it was the first boulder in this video https://youtu.be/Ayji9tDdMx8?si=prEJESng0jJxtyNy based on other rumours. So could be 10 now if that's the case
-
In the same pod he was bemoaning the lack of coverage 8C+ got now we are into 9A’s, so I had assumed he had gone for that grade. Will all come out in the wash I guess!
-
Sounded like in the Sean Bailey interview on Carless Talk that he's done something new and really hard in the USA. I wondered if it was the first boulder in this video https://youtu.be/Ayji9tDdMx8?si=prEJESng0jJxtyNy based on other rumours. So could be 10 now if that's the case
I think you're right, he seemed pretty coy when Trieste Low was mentioned. Will be interesting to see if Shawn Rabotou has anything up his sleeve too, he's been pretty quiet since doing Alphane and Megatron (except nipping in for a quick second ascent of Devilution).
ed: I think there's also a proj left of Trieste in the 9A range so could also be that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GS4DSrqBi-A
-
Some hard stuff in the UK coming out of the new wedge video, not seen it on here yet (although no surprise it's already in climbing-history ;) )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VloysXS6B_k
The Origin Sit 8C
Tempest in a Teapot 8B+
Hell is Empty and All the Devils Are Here 8B/+ FA
as well as a teaser for Trance 8C