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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 10, 2015, 02:02:43 pm

Title: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 10, 2015, 02:02:43 pm
I'd like top start this thread, with a celebration of my new favourite exercise - the negative bar muscle-up.

Here's a video:

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_gXECajymcY

These are just brilliant, and in my view, probably the best triceps training for climbing ;D

To make them more fun, start by doing a feet-first flip over the bar, to the starting position. What's also fantastic training, is to gradually increase the depth of the negative, before pushing back up to the top.

My other favourite, is the one-arm come-down, or sets of negative one-arm pull-ups. More of that later..

 :dance1:
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 10, 2015, 11:14:48 pm
too much negativity, dude

people don't need to hear about your come-downs

 ;)
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 11, 2015, 12:16:23 pm
Thanks Lagers   :P

Here's another of my favourites, for that elusive "lock it at your waste" strength:

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VUe3M0iLPG0

Doing these on rings or parallel bars makes it easier to get your legs out of the way, so that you can pull the bar closer to your torso. As does getting stronger, and extending your legs closer to the full lever position. Adding weight works very well.

A great exercise, and far more applicable to climbing than most forms of pull-up. Also a good way to boost your muscle-up.

I'd come up with this one myself, and always thought it was superb, so felt vindicated to see Megos doing these.

 :dance1:
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 11, 2015, 01:33:19 pm
One arm come-downs.

Here is a great article on the one arm pull-up:

http://www.dragondoor.com/articles/the-one-arm-chinning-guide/

The first exercise described, is alternate one arm come-downs. A fantastic exercise. Gradually adding weight seems more effective than extending the length of each set.

I found this article via the link on John Gill's website here:

http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Chinups.html

 :dance1:
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 11, 2015, 01:51:35 pm
Alternate one arm come-downs:

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tT4e9svD4qs

Better to use a longer bar, so you can work along it, swapping hands more easily.

Some viewers will love the hairstyle  :P
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Stubbs on April 11, 2015, 07:09:47 pm
My elbows exploded from just watching that last video!
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: bendavison on April 11, 2015, 10:09:33 pm
I can't tell whether or not this thread is a joke
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: moose on April 11, 2015, 11:48:58 pm
Part of me is reminded of one-click-through-too-many youtube sessions, whilst pissed at 2am: "down-the-rabbit-hole" explorations of David Lynchean small-town weirdness.  Another part of me is wondering whether or not the reason that I am so weak, is that I am not hanging around childrens' playgrounds doing these routines (and possibly attracting the eye of the social services)
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: TheTwig on April 12, 2015, 12:38:11 am
The only result of half of those exercises is some kind of serious injury surely  :unsure:
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 12, 2015, 12:49:39 am
My elbows exploded from just watching that last video!

You mean, like this guy.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9VHkUpTkZ8E

I like the way he exits stage left - presumably to scream  :o

Just for a little clarity, there are plenty of body weight/bar routines that are pretty cool exercises, if you're into that sort of thing. However, I'm trying to identify those particular routines that isolate climbing specific strength.

Apart from the one arm pull-up of course.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 12, 2015, 01:03:12 am
I can't tell whether or not this thread is a joke

No, not a joke. Make of it what you will.

Laugh if you like  :)

There's nothing here that is particularly injurious - in my opinion, but as always, listen to your body, rest well etc.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7597/16494639343_d379a88c6b_b.jpg)
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 12, 2015, 03:17:34 pm
Here's a great resource for some good motivational training videos and ideas,

Café Kraft on Vimeo:

https://vimeo.com/69235663

Thanks to Steve the Pro, for the link.

 8)
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Muenchener on April 12, 2015, 03:36:48 pm
I'd like top start this thread, with a celebration of my new favourite exercise - the negative bar muscle-up.

I'd come up with this one myself, and always thought it was superb, so felt vindicated to see Megos doing these.

Since we're name-dropping, I can vindicate you some more by mentioning that Monika Retschy was doing bar muscle-ups at the wall this morning. Also typewriters on those hanging ball thingies - like on a bar, except that you stay in one place and shove the ball (or ring) away to the side.

She has lousy press-up form though.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 12, 2015, 05:52:48 pm
Excellent stuff  ;D

I'd been in the park, and had had a great session doing the muscle-up negative. I'd also had my best one arm come-down sets, and was feeling psyched  8)

I've always tended to get quite excited when I discover a little key that works for me. The tucked lever rows are sweet too  :)
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 12, 2015, 10:18:54 pm
Great link from Café Kraft, again courtesy of Steve the Pro:

https://vimeo.com/24776832

The young German lad looks quite strong.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 13, 2015, 11:22:58 pm
"Since my feet kept slipping all the time.. I thought.. I might as well not use them at all"

Jan Hojer

For the full  :o  :jaw: check out @ 1:35 and 2:42

All on four x 2 hour training sessions a week (actually sounds like quite a lot for me):

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DFojqoAfJ7g

I hope everyone finds this as inspiring as I do  ;D though I'm sure most people will have seen it before.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Sasquatch on April 13, 2015, 11:55:54 pm
I can't tell whether or not this thread is a joke

No, not a joke. Make of it what you will.

Laugh if you like  :)

There's nothing here that is particularly injurious - in my opinion, but as always, listen to your body, rest well etc.

What Ben is getting at is that everything posted so far is all "training" to perform exercises rather than "training" to get better at climbing.  There's very little causation connection between being able to do a muscle up/1-arm pullup/ring based core work and climbing hard.

So far you've posted inspiring exercise clips form pros that are doing this stuff as an add on to a well rounded training program.  As in the Jan Hojer example he's doing 8 weeks of directly planned climbing training.  Yet what everyones see the "wow" party trick stuff, and somehow thinkis that's how to train to get better. 

Or was the intent of the thread to be "Training Top Tips for exercies not related to being a better climber"

You want top training tips:

1-When you go down the wall, improve the "quality" of your climbing and you'll see strength, technique, and endurance gains.

2- Order of importance of types of training:
    1-Climb
    2-More Climbing
    3-More Climbing
    4-Finger Strength
    5-More Climbing
    6-More Climbing
    7-Finger Strength
    8-More Climbing
    9-Finger Strength
    10-Other Stuff


Sorry if this sounds bitchy.  I've had a rough week.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 14, 2015, 01:28:53 am


Just for a little clarity, there are plenty of body weight/bar routines that are pretty cool exercises, if you're into that sort of thing. However, I'm trying to identify those particular routines that isolate climbing specific strength.

Apart from the one arm pull-up of course.

As I said, make of it what you will. I'll post what I've found particularly helpful/exciting/want to share with others.

Glad you found some of the videos inspiring - I'd added the last couple for added "psyche", and are indeed less relevant.

Go clubbing and take a pill. It'll increase your power to weight.   :great:
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Nibile on April 14, 2015, 09:08:30 am
A long time ago I posted a link to an article related to eccentrics, quite sure it was a study by Eva Lopez, and another one still on eccentrics from T-Nation.
Both articles seemed to confirm that most of us train eccentrics in the wrong way, IIRC.
Can't find them at the moment.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Gallant on April 14, 2015, 09:25:30 am
To save Nib's searching too much : https://www.t-nation.com/training/negatives-youre-doing-them-wrong
Was one of the ones he posted in the training resources thread.

http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/slow-and-eccentric-strength-training.html (was the Lopez one Erm, Sam responded with)
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Nibile on April 14, 2015, 09:41:42 am
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 14, 2015, 10:35:17 am
I'm sure there are plenty of ways to improve on the basics of the three exercises I've posted.

Thanks for the contributions  :2thumbsup:

Will post back later, but off climbing  8)
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: blamo on April 15, 2015, 02:57:10 am

1-When you go down the wall, improve the "quality" of your climbing and you'll see strength, technique, and endurance gains.

2- Order of importance of types of training:
    1-Climb
    2-More Climbing
    3-More Climbing
    4-Finger Strength
    5-More Climbing
    6-More Climbing
    7-Finger Strength
    8-More Climbing
    9-Finger Strength
    10-Other Stuff


Sorry if this sounds bitchy.  I've had a rough week.

I totally agree.   :agree:


I think the big difficulty is figuring out how to focus your energy on getting better at climbing.  No one seems to be writing about the nuances of climbing improvement. :furious:   :wall:

However, there is no shortage of additional exercises.  :wank:
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: andy_e on April 15, 2015, 10:11:10 am
1-When you go down the wall, improve the "quality" of your climbing and you'll see strength, technique, and endurance gains.

2- Order of importance of types of training:
    1-Climb
    2-More Climbing
    3-More Climbing
    4-Finger Strength
    5-More Climbing
    6-More Climbing
    7-Finger Strength
    8-More Climbing
    9-Finger Strength
    10-Other Stuff


Pfff, this approach clearly hasn't worked for you has it? You can't even 1-4-7... It's not like you've climbed anything hard to back up this training regime. I mean, If you'd done the Mandala I'd believe it works. Oh, wait...
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: abarro81 on April 15, 2015, 10:22:10 am
I think the big difficulty is figuring out how to focus your energy on getting better at climbing.  No one seems to be writing about the nuances of climbing improvement. :furious:   :wall:

I think that's because it's much harder to know how to approach it and harder to express! DM's 9/10 has a lots of sensible stuff in it though.

I'm with Sasquatch - tinkering and supplemental stuff are just that.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: a dense loner on April 15, 2015, 10:28:35 am
Has anyone said any different?
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 15, 2015, 10:35:12 am
Given the overload of tedious threads about the 'tinkering' 'party tricks' recently, and basically none about how to improve actual technique, I'd say yes.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 15, 2015, 10:53:52 am
I'm sure there are plenty of ways to improve on the basics of the three exercises I've posted.

by doing them at the end of a long day's climbing?
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: fatneck on April 15, 2015, 01:02:32 pm
Just to point out to Eddies (off the back of his recent puntering of Dave) that DAVETHOMAS90 (assuming he's who I think he is) is hardly "young&keen but much to learn"...  :jab:
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Nibile on April 15, 2015, 01:53:14 pm
 ;D
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 15, 2015, 01:56:18 pm
Hey folks.

Always great to hear different opinions on things.

I started this thread because I happened to be psyched about an exercise - slow negative muscle up and variations of - which isolated and focused on a particular strength of great relevance, in my opinion, to my climbing.

And I wanted to share it. Along with a couple of other moves - in particular the tucked lever row, which I think is really great, and as I said, far more relevant to climbing, in my opinion, than any normal pull up.

Punterring me for that seems a tad cheap - and miserable.

I've also pointed out that simply getting good at bar routines isn't the point of this - although I appreciate it's probably great fun to show off your lever prowess.

Neither am I saying "do this, and you will become a great climber". So there, and  :icon_321: springs to mind (I love that smiley, as I can't do it in real life).

Perhaps one quality that seems consistent with many top climbers, is their capacity for enthusiasm, self motivation, and finding their own answers and innovation. Probably because they possess their own intrinsic enjoyment of it.

If anyone is interested, it would be good to get a little feedback, or to know if anyone else does something similar.

That being said, I fully appreciate the necessity of having a solid OAP (one arm pull up) in one's repertoire!

There are many exercises that a lot of climbers focus on too much, as ends in themselves, campus boarding being one of them. However, being good at those exercises generally requires having specific strengths that are highly transferrable to climbing.

If anyone else has found a little gem that has worked for them, why not post about that.  :2thumbsup:

DT.

Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Three Nine on April 15, 2015, 01:58:51 pm
Ok rite so are you the Dave Thomas who soloed Caveman and is on the front of the Nick White 1994 South Devon and Dartmoor guide?

If you are then you're a goddamn hero. 
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 15, 2015, 02:21:15 pm
Ok rite so are you the Dave Thomas who soloed Caveman and is on the front of the Nick White 1994 South Devon and Dartmoor guide?

If you are then you're a goddamn hero.

Oh 'eck. Nah.. blame someone else  ;D

Still young and keen, with much to learn.

Aren't we all!
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Three Nine on April 15, 2015, 02:23:34 pm
Oh so you're not?

 :( how disappointing. Punter away everyone.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Pako on April 15, 2015, 02:36:19 pm
I used to be not able to climb at a proper facility at all, and so resorted to developing strength using a door pullup bar. While it did not help me very much then, I think that now that I have the much vaunted board to train on, I am able to progress quite quickly since I have a large base of lock-off strength. I would still much rather have been able to train on a 50 back then instead of faffing around with one arms. Perhaps if I had been training on a 50 for longer I would have done a bloody one arm by now.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 15, 2015, 02:37:02 pm
Oh so you're not?

 :( how disappointing. Punter away everyone.

Hmm tricky.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Doylo on April 15, 2015, 02:44:56 pm
Ok rite so are you the Dave Thomas who soloed Caveman and is on the front of the Nick White 1994 South Devon and Dartmoor guide?

If you are then you're a goddamn hero.

Never mind that he soloed Lord!  :o
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: fatneck on April 15, 2015, 02:48:01 pm
Quote
Oh so you're not?

 :( how disappointing. Punter away everyone.

Quite... 
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: abarro81 on April 15, 2015, 02:50:53 pm
I'd rather solo lord than caveman I reckon (he says having never been on caveman but having looked at that cave).. at least on lord you're only likely to fall if you fuck up, caveman has sketchy choss to deal with by the looks of it!
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 15, 2015, 02:52:06 pm
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8791/17155565242_579c4acef8_b.jpg)
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: fatneck on April 15, 2015, 02:52:33 pm
And by the sound of it!

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1991%20Journal-p118-127.pdf

(Page 8 onwards)
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 15, 2015, 02:59:15 pm
Stop being so modest Dave.  :)
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Three Nine on April 15, 2015, 03:03:26 pm
Ok rite so are you the Dave Thomas who soloed Caveman and is on the front of the Nick White 1994 South Devon and Dartmoor guide?

If you are then you're a goddamn hero.

Never mind that he soloed Lord!  :o


Never mind Wales you absurdly parochial sweetcorn enthusiast. Caveman slightly bigger deal than a single pitch at the Stanage of North Wales.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: cowboyhat on April 15, 2015, 03:07:24 pm
Don't be so sensitive Dave, its only the internet. Fluff away at all the edges you like.



I wonder if the offending punterer thought you were born in 1990....
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 15, 2015, 03:08:49 pm
Whilst I appreciate that this is completely off topic, I'd like to make a public shout out for Joe Healey.

I've known Joe for many years, not always got on, but a great guy, and someone for whom their climbing has clearly been a private affair. I only found out recently just what he'd been doing "back in the day" - as in 30 years ago.

A very rare talent.

 :beer2:
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: fried on April 15, 2015, 03:14:59 pm
And by the sound of it!

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1991%20Journal-p118-127.pdf

(Page 8 onwards)

Cool, I always knew DAVETHOMAS90 was really Crispin Waddy in disguise.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 15, 2015, 03:46:34 pm
Some chance of landing in the sea off Caveman though isn't there? Not a great landing on Lord.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Doylo on April 15, 2015, 03:59:42 pm
Ok rite so are you the Dave Thomas who soloed Caveman and is on the front of the Nick White 1994 South Devon and Dartmoor guide?

If you are then you're a goddamn hero.

Never mind that he soloed Lord!  :o



Never mind Wales you absurdly parochial sweetcorn enthusiast. Caveman slightly bigger deal than a single pitch at the Stanage of North Wales.

Single pitch is 50 metres though.  :ras:
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Wood FT on April 15, 2015, 05:00:00 pm
Whilst I appreciate that this is completely off topic, I'd like to make a public shout out for Joe Healey.

I've known Joe for many years, not always got on, but a great guy, and someone for whom their climbing has clearly been a private affair. I only found out recently just what he'd been doing "back in the day" - as in 30 years ago.

A very rare talent.

 :beer2:

would he mind you sharing his exploits?
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 15, 2015, 05:29:05 pm
Whilst I appreciate that this is completely off topic, I'd like to make a public shout out for Joe Healey.

I've known Joe for many years, not always got on, but a great guy, and someone for whom their climbing has clearly been a private affair. I only found out recently just what he'd been doing "back in the day" - as in 30 years ago.

A very rare talent.

 :beer2:

would he mind you sharing his exploits?

Hmm, I was wondering about that. I'd been chatting with a certain MrJonathonR of this parish quite recently, and La Berezina, back in 1985, along with his own Monobloc V11 at Pex about the same time, stood out for me. I'd be sensitive about too much fanfare perhaps, and others will have their own first hand knowledge, but it's clear to me that nothing matters more to him than the love of it. Hope it's OK to speculate about something so personal.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 15, 2015, 06:35:19 pm
It wasn't so much doing La Beresina- it's 7C- but immediately doing it again as he felt he was a bit scrappy the first time.  :slap: Onsight (IIRC) 2nd ascent of Moonstomp a week after Pollitt was impressive I thought.

I've climbed with some great talents (eg Lynn hill, Anthoine leMenestrel) and Joe's always stood out as technically brilliant.

Simon Nadin doesn't get the credit he deserves either. Onsighting 8a+ for fun in the early 90s, 1st winner of the world cup, all those horrors on Western Grit...
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Sasquatch on April 15, 2015, 07:01:35 pm
Sorry about the venting.  Bad day and irritated.

I like the idea of a top tips thread, but it's guaranteed to get cluttered with stuff that one person likes and anther thinks is duff.  That's the way of people and the interwebs.   

There have been quite a few threads talking about these things - advanced technique questions, training methods, etc.  and I think they all fail somewhat as topics because they're too vague. 

For example this could perhaps have been named "Top Climbing Strength Training Exercises". as it is, "Top Training Tips" is really vague and generic and as such I think the #1 thing I would push people towards as a top tip is that QUALITY matters.

If you are training strength, then you need to rest a ton so you get the level of intensity you need.  This was discussed on a thread here a while back and someone (i forget who) went and did a boulder session resting alot between attempts and really working their max intensity and expressed surprise that they were able to perform much better than they expected. 

If you're training strength endurance (either Aeropow or Ancap) then understanding the appropriate level of intensity and rest to promote the desired improvement is key. 

If you're resting, then REST.  That means good sleep, good nutrition, low stress. 

Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Sasquatch on April 15, 2015, 07:02:27 pm
And on a different note.  I love the tangents into aspects of climbing history.  I learn so much good stuff on here. 
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 15, 2015, 07:37:37 pm
Ok rite so are you the Dave Thomas who soloed Caveman and is on the front of the Nick White 1994 South Devon and Dartmoor guide?

If you are then you're a goddamn hero.

he's not a goddamn hero; he's a very naughty boy
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: T_B on April 15, 2015, 08:03:55 pm
Ok rite so are you the Dave Thomas who soloed Caveman and is on the front of the Nick White 1994 South Devon and Dartmoor guide?

If you are then you're a goddamn hero.

Never mind that he soloed Lord!  :o



Never mind Wales you absurdly parochial sweetcorn enthusiast. Caveman slightly bigger deal than a single pitch at the Stanage of North Wales.

Single pitch is 50 metres though.  :ras:

You mean you can TR it with a 50m rope (...which you can apparently...according to the 'Crainefly').
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Falling Down on April 15, 2015, 08:12:07 pm
What a great thread and karma/puntering  ;D
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 15, 2015, 09:58:27 pm
my two favorite climbing experiences of 2014 were

1) watching Dolly crush Jihad after lots of effort

2) listening to DT90 enthusing about his old training (for Lord) circuit at Rubicon
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Fultonius on April 15, 2015, 09:58:41 pm

If you are training strength, then you need to rest a ton so you get the level of intensity you need.  This was discussed on a thread here a while back and someone (i forget who) went and did a boulder session resting alot between attempts and really working their max intensity and expressed surprise that they were able to perform much better than they expected. 



 :-[  That were me.  :agree:
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: a dense loner on April 15, 2015, 10:02:39 pm
Genius bizarre thread. Surprised no ones brought up DT being one of Britains top 100 bachelors.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: a dense loner on April 15, 2015, 10:09:29 pm
Tho to be fair without knowing what Dave had done eddies puntered him for what he thought was a stupid vid that could cause injuries to younger climbers. At least he spoke what was on his mind
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 15, 2015, 10:13:07 pm
Dave is still Britain's most eligible bachelor
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 15, 2015, 10:39:46 pm
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7646/16973591830_e3fddc9045_z.jpg)

I can't read this.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 15, 2015, 10:44:44 pm
illegible spatula?

you fucking cock

 :lol:
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 15, 2015, 10:46:24 pm
where's the real pic from the mag?
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Mark Lloyd on April 16, 2015, 08:39:51 am

he's not a goddamn hero; he's a very naughty boy
[/quote]

Only the true hero denies his heroism

Ok I am a hero now f*** off

So what heroic acts has Dave Thomas performed
Well he soled caveman
Ok apart from soloing caveman
Soloing Lord
Well apart from soloing caveman and Lord
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Mark Lloyd on April 16, 2015, 08:54:07 am

listening to DT90 enthusing about his old training (for Lord) circuit at Rubicon
[/quote]

Can you elaborate so that the messiahs deeds can be documented and maybe given a name, the Lord of rubicon linkup/traverse
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Wood FT on April 16, 2015, 09:09:39 am
I was sat in the Bondo Campsite in Switzerland a few years ago chatting to a pair of climbers. We were talking about trad back in England as you do. I said Oli had done the Zone to which they were impressed, realising the game the taller of the pair then said his brother had soloed lord of the flies once, bullshit radar went off and I asked him rhetorically

"is your surname Thomas or something?"

"yes it is" 

"8)"
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Eddies on April 16, 2015, 11:38:41 am
I punted Dave’s original posts because he had started a thread to simply throw up a few hasty ‘training vids’ (like so many threads before this) without a decent explanation as to why he thought they were useful for climbing or how they had improved his own climbing.

I'm all for training don't get me wrong, in fact I spend a lot of time trying to improve my climbing performance during the times I cant climb outdoors by training indoors, which makes it all the more frustrating when a thread appears with no real content with regards to useful training to improve ones climbing.

Anyone can go on YouTube and drag up a hundred ‘climbing training’ clips, so without explaining what they've taken from them there's really nothing to gain from the thread.

I don't know who you are DAVETHOMAS90 and I don't mean any offence to you personally by this post or my punt.

In defence of the few people I've offended, it doesn't matter if you've soloed E6 or climbed V12 barefoot, that doesn't necessarily mean that you know anything about 'training' for rock climbing.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: andy popp on April 16, 2015, 01:33:28 pm
I watched Dave solo Lord, though only from the road. I was very happy not to be any closer.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: petejh on April 16, 2015, 01:55:46 pm
In defence of the few people I've offended, it doesn't matter if you've soloed E6 or climbed V12 barefoot, that doesn't necessarily mean that you know anything about 'training' for rock climbing.

You're spot on, it doesn't - plenty can't see that. Still funny as fuck calling Dave Thomas 'young and keen with much to learn'.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 16, 2015, 02:08:04 pm
what petejh said

also

with the hours that DT90 spends climbing, running, training, thinking about training and reflecting and retro-meta-reflecting on the training value of pretty much everything, I'm amazed that he got round to posting anything
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: tomtom on April 16, 2015, 02:45:23 pm
I was wondering if it was possible to type whilst levitating - as a push down on the keyboard would surely result in pushing you further up in the air.

Then he could have typed it on his lap - whilst meditating..
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Eddies on April 16, 2015, 03:14:54 pm
In defence of the few people I've offended, it doesn't matter if you've soloed E6 or climbed V12 barefoot, that doesn't necessarily mean that you know anything about 'training' for rock climbing.

You're spot on, it doesn't - plenty can't see that. Still funny as fuck calling Dave Thomas 'young and keen with much to learn'.

Yeah, I didn't know who I was talking to and jumped to a conclusion. We all did before we knew.
Sorry about that.
And I'm not Obi Wan Kenobi, far from it... I could benefit from some mental training techniques from Dave as I am strong in body but weak in mind.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 16, 2015, 07:10:58 pm
I punted Dave’s original posts because he had started a thread to simply throw up a few hasty ‘training vids’ (like so many threads before this) without a decent explanation as to why he thought they were useful for climbing or how they had improved his own climbing.

I'm all for training don't get me wrong, in fact I spend a lot of time trying to improve my climbing performance during the times I cant climb outdoors by training indoors, which makes it all the more frustrating when a thread appears with no real content with regards to useful training to improve ones climbing.

Anyone can go on YouTube and drag up a hundred ‘climbing training’ clips, so without explaining what they've taken from them there's really nothing to gain from the thread.

I don't know who you are DAVETHOMAS90 and I don't mean any offence to you personally by this post or my punt.

In defence of the few people I've offended, it doesn't matter if you've soloed E6 or climbed V12 barefoot, that doesn't necessarily mean that you know anything about 'training' for rock climbing.

Dear Mr Eddy.

Why don't you carefully read what I've posted, motivation for etc.

At no point have I proclaimed ownership of any particular expertise. I've been feeling pretty pissed off with the usual "build it up/tear it down" bull that a lot of people find entertaining in forums. Please don't try to make criticisms of claims I've not made. It's shite.

People who know me well are probably quite used to me getting excited about things that seem to be a new "key" or otherwise particularly effective.

I value other people's considered opinion of how things may work, and positive input through a forum is a great way to throw ideas around.

I've posted a couple of videos to better demonstrate what I've been feeling enthusiastic about, plus some others that I found relevant and inspiring, and one, a little tongue in cheek. Why don't you try the exercises and offer some feedback, or maybe explore for yourself in what way they may have relevance to some aspects of climbing?

That would be more interesting than:

"Anyone can go on YouTube and drag up a hundred ‘climbing training’ clips, so without explaining what they've taken from them there's really nothing to gain from the thread."  :shit:

DT.

Point being, that - apart from feeling obviously rather cross - that isn't how I've presented the videos at all.
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: Eddies on April 16, 2015, 09:41:51 pm
Ok I'll give them a go... Please don't be cross
Title: Re: Training Top Tips
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 17, 2015, 12:34:36 am
Ok I'll give them a go... Please don't be cross

Cool  8) will be interesting to know what you think.

I'd been working on my muscle-ups (+ve) for a while, which seemed all well and good, and a great trick, but it was only when I started working the negative that I was really able to isolate the transition phase of the movement - in that "lock it low, press it out" way which seems the part of the movement which is of most value in a climbing context.

Went through a bar routine last night, which was killer - one arm comedowns, levers and muscle-up negatives. No tucked lever rows this time.

My routine for the -ve MUs is to spin up over the bar, feet first, to the top position, if you know what I mean. I then lower very slowly to increasingly deeper/lower positions until I reach the limit of what I can press back out to the top position - 2 or 3 reps of this - before lowering slowly through the whole movement to the bottom/starting position. 2 or 3 sets of this? Buy coffee and cake (optional).

Thanks for taking my rant in such a good humoured way.

Hope you don't mind the change to my profile  ;D

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