UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on April 21, 2019, 10:15:19 pm
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For the avoidance of doubt Power Club is a designated safe space for micro, macro and even meso aggressions.
11.1
M –Rest day 5 of 7. Sonia does the Boston marathon :clap2:
T-Rest day 6 of 7. Samuel Adams brewery tour
W-Rest day 7 0f 7 Visit MIT and Harvard and catch plane
T- Arrive back in Manchester midday. Evening. Jet lagged but determined to do an FB / Ergo Edge max hangs session. Not too shoddy
F. Eve Tor. Hot. Felt tired. Just me there. Did sections of Bens but tips felt thin and pulling quickly became painful. Did OK
S. Turned 55. Midday – 30 mins AeroCap on systems board
S. PM FB / Ergo Edge max hangs session. Wore shorts and scrote got pinched between two plates. Ouch. Spurred on to a better performance. Hee haw!
Eve. Crag X. No one in layby when I got there then Stone pulled over along with another car and asked if Id show Matthew W and friend the holy place. Took them down and showed them the ancient artefacts. They said they would go and get their pads. Didn’t see them again. Not sure what I said. OK session re-familiarising myself on JR/Moffatrocity
Too hot for Malham at moment. Maybe friday
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T-Rest day 6 of 7. Samuel Adams brewery tour
Jealous.
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T - Ilkley. Arrived at did Baby Spice. Then minced around getting action shots. A couple of VSs at the end.
Su - Castlebergh guidebook checking. Got loads done and a few action shots in the bank. A couple of easy things climbed plus a 7a in scorching connies.
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Power Club
Goals: Uninjured, 70kg, 8A in UK, Rocklands in June.
M - battered from the weekend, lots of aches especially delts. Went to wall anyway as other half away with work so at a loose end. Intended to just do recovery circuits but got distracted by reclimbing some oranges that had been tweaked since last week, so mediumish bouldering I suppose. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU.
T - 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU.
W - 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 20PINCU.
T - Beach with daughter. Playing in surf, damming streams etc. TCA briefly in eve, warmed up and got straight on 35° Black, did crux to top straight off at end of warm up, next go did crux from start but dropped next move, next go did it fine. Chuffed to put this to bed, def brought my undercut crapness into sharp relief. Managed good link on another black after but stopped early as wanted to train Friday too. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 10PINCU.
F - TCA am, not feeling full of energy as had been up at 5 to drop gf at airport. Only brief session but surprised and pleased to tick off the black I'd made progress on yesterday. This has a weird powerful undercut start so hopefully this and the 35° one I managed earlier in the week are evidence of improvement on undercuts. Found some low undercuts on the moonboard and did touches after. TCA eve, went back after work, intended circuits but ended up on more blacks, less steep stuff this time and again surprised to do well, managed to tick one that I'd not managed the crux move on previously, and tickled the last hold on another. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 10PINCU.
S - drive to Pembroke, play in the sea. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 10PINCU.
S - play in the sea.
Av 70.7 kg.
Happy with this week, pleased to be making progress on the blacks again esp the 35°. Weight not brilliant but I drink more when it's sunny...
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Also, well done Mrs shark!
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M - Felt sluggish when I woke up but thought I might be able to battle through it and headed to Griffs to check out the low starts to Ovine anyway. Other options might have been better but really just wanted to know what I was up against. Could barely do a move on either, Lovine felt reachy and pretty unlikely but Low Left but felt like it might be possible on another day.
Also had a play on Mint Sauce, which felt like it could come together and is really nice; and the nails minging death crimps of Bovine Original, which didn't, and isn't.
Headed to Rubicon but couldn't even pull on to the Press or BSD which was telling.
Core back home.
T 6x5mins LI
W Rubicon - much better, no problem getting off the floor on the Press today and had a few stabs at fumbling the crimp.
BSD Low started to come together, few attempts almost getting the undercut on the stand, quite a warm morning so better connies and there's a chance.
Core back home, felt strongest ever so decided to do extra high intensity reps rather than the usual high volume floor circuit and managed proper Dragon Flags for the first time. This is a YYFY, first tried them in October and could only manage tucked reverses, been doing harder and harder progressions since but didn't feel like I was close until five minutes before they happened.
Th - Second PE session, base level 7a circuit x2 laps, much improved on last time, had to add an extra set to fail on
F - Good Friday, wife away, kiddy hearding, etc
S -
Tried a few max hangs to start, bettered F3 PB despite the only FBing I've done for four months is monthly retest sessions. Looks like there's more than one way to skin that cat.
PE3, upped intensity, maybe 7b+, Stopped after failng late in laps 7&8. Good session.
Running out of time so had to squeeze in a conditioning session - 2 sets of scap pullups, Ts, Ys & reverses then core- LVL sits, lever progressions, more Dragons, nice to prove Wed wasn't a fluke.
Took nipper to Hathersage pool in the PM, managed a few lengths but mostly just an hour of bobbing and gentle pootling around.
S - wife back from weekend away, hoped to get out in the afternoon but it was far too warm to be arsed. Made a brief attempt at warming up in the garage before deciding I was still tired from Saturday.
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Congratulations to Sonia.
STG: Manage aches and pains. A long day outside.
MTG: Colorado bucket list in May, a classic sea cliff E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.
M - Shoulder strength: IsYsTs on the rings etc. Hip stretches. Westway, bouldering warm-up, shoulder still tweaky so did not continue.
T - Shoulder strength. Hip stretches. Fingerboard pick-ups, 32.5kg on 18mm edges.
W - Shoulder strength. Westway, routes: 4 up to 5+ on the autobelay, shoulder still not great.
T - Drove to Pembroke with Hugo, grabbed a few easy routes at Saddle Head including the E1 right of Sea Mist before it got completely dark.
F - Carreg Y Barcud. Scorchio! Be Brave (E1), Stingray (E2) and Startling by the Sea (E2). Snapped a right hand-hold on the latter, just held on, barn-dooring around my left shoulder. It survived: a good test. Hugo also did Kitten Claws and Mean Feat and rescued an off-route leader on Be Brave. Not a bad day!
S - Chasing the shade, so morning at Rusty Walls and afternoon on the The Castle. Managed to abseil in with only one one of the ropes so escaped via Corrosion (E2). This seems to have lost rock as the description doesn’t fit and is now not very recommendable. Felt mentally and physically low energy and didn’t fancy anything much harder. Did Kramer vs Kramer (E2). This was great, a real uphill battle with crack climbing of all widths and not too many distracting face holds, excellent training for the US. It’s correctly been upgraded in the CC select, might even merit the legendary 5.9+. Finished with Davey Crockett (HVSish) , a gem, similar standard and at least as good as Too Much Pressure. Drove back to London.
S - Exhausted. Hip stretches.
Glorious weather in Pembroke, good climbing and company, and some bonus heat training for the US desert! Shoulder felt pretty good, I could probably increase the difficulty a bit but main priority now is to stay fit.
Plan: route mileage, long day(s), and a bit of leg conditioning.
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STG - Climb Fighting Torque
Plan/train for Spring Font trip
Weight 72-74kg
MTG - go to Ansteys, go to Font
More volume: Climb 10 routes 7a-7c+ by end June
Portland Font 7A+/B from unfinished list, autumn
LTG - 7C
M - PE circuit 6 laps. Hard. 3rd day on though. Massive focus on recovery and recruitment now! Yoga before sleep.
T - Yoga before sleep
W - Active recovery/recruitment session. 20 mins gentle warm up. Few high quality goes on board project over next 45 mins. Lots of rest. Actually did it, which was a big surprise. Have been trying that longer than Fighting Torque. Compared to stuff outdoors if thought 7Bish would be reasonable and would take me a lot longer. Promising. Yoga in evening.
T - 73.3kg. Odd day. Felt really sick and dizzy out of the blue around lunch. No obvious cause. Smashed a large dose of some anti emetic which worked nicely, but odd all the same.
F - Session 14 on Fighting Torque. Much better performance wise. Only started when sun off but still well over 20 degrees. Warm with no t shirt at 2000. Did a 6b then clips in FT. First go struggled, off at shield. Expected that, good warm up. Second go best go yet. Up to top of crux, did crux move. Got high right foot, slightly off hold, just needed to drop knee and grab jug. Felt strong, thought would go. Suddenly right hand just pinged and was off. Third go, pinged off undercuts. Fourth, pinged off just past undercuts again feeling super strong. Fifth go tired, but still managed to fight up to top of shield, was never happening though.
Best performance and strongest feeling. Three goes falling when hands pinged off holds. New high point by part of a foot move. Do truly think might have gone if 10 degrees colder. Going to be colder on Thursday. Will have to not have the most excessive Easter....
Lots of positives and great day out on rock with good people. Can’t feel disappointed with how I climbed. Still enjoying process, but next time I think I’ll limit attempts and try and tick off some 7s while I’m at it.
S - Realised how much climbing I did day before when I woke up! Started day with really good yoga session which felt amazing. Did a short core session which was also positive in that I held a front lever for a perceptible unit of time for the first time ever. Real battle of day will be limiting Prosecco and chocolate as family around me end lent in style.
S - Yoga. Good. Core. Slow pull ups to warm up. Flat jug.
5 hanging crunch tuck things.
5 hanging leg raise
5 single leg raises far as can reach both legs
5 front lever reps
3 rounds.
Couple one arm hangs
Hot cross buns and roast lamb.
Probably more excessive than should have been...
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M –Rest day 5 of 7. Sonia does the Boston marathon :clap2:
Awesome, How did she find it? Rowena had appalling conditions last year! Loved the city though.
STG - London Marathon, less than a week to go.
MTG - weight down, get on rocks
LTG - projects.
M- attempt at running intervals 5.9km
T - nothing
W - 5.5 km easy pace. Boulder session in evening. Felt OK, pretty strong
T - weight 13st 2lbs, just 2 off race weight. Lunchtime yoga.
F - shitty day at work, sun was shining, no-one was in office and i had a ton to do. left office at 6:30, did 10 miles in 1hr 16 - a pace much faster than I should have, but felt the need to thrash it a bit (probably stupidly). felt great after though.
S - in town, walking tour to see all the new artwork on the buildings https://www.eveningexpress.co.uk/fp/news/local/video-aberdeen-streets-come-alive-with-colour-as-nuart-festival-officially-launches/ worth a wander should anyone find themselves here.
S - easter egg trail with kids. Glorious weather.
486km in training outdoors this year, plus a few treadmill sessions. As it stands I'll be at the start line without any major injuries, (touch wood) which was the main goal. Just hope the weather cools down a bit or else it may all go a bit wobbly. Training has been an interesting process, pushing it out a bit week on week, and walking the line between tweaks and injuries!
And a reminder if anyone else wants to donate to the cause;
https://mydonate.bt.com/fundraisers/chrisfryervmlm2019
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M:
T: Movement Climbing & Fitness Baker. Large wall with really good looking ropes area. Bouldering a bit smaller, nice that it was graded though. Felt a bit soft as I flashed a few V6s… Everyone really friendly and had a good min-sesh on a 40 board upstairs. Campus board spacing whack at this wall though - 1-4-7 way too easy... Finished with some stretching. Found out Spot is opening a new gym 10 mins walk from new apartment - 19k sq ft bouldering and Kilter + Tension boards. Psyched!
W:
T: Movement Climbing & Fitness Rino. Huge wall, just for bouldering. No way I could get round the whole thing in a session. Really good setting, lots of outdoorsy problems - none of this comp style wank you get in the UK. Grading again a bit soft but it had circuits up to V12 - V14! Definitely one of the best walls I've been to. Spent most of time climbing problems, flashed a few V6 - 8s. Almost flashed a V8 - 10 but then couldn't get back there. Finished with some romanian deadlifts up to 135lb
F:
S: Arapahoe Basin spring skiing. First time skiing for three years. V wobbly at start but got it back quick and was flying towards the end. Only a few wipe-outs as muscles were fatiguing. R knee hurting towards the end of the day so may have overdone it.
S: Moved into new place, lots of unpacking and even more online ordering - feeling v poor...
Knee sore today, hurts in rear right side when I straighten it - managed to walk 20 mins to work this morning so can't be too bad - fingers crossed I can manage through it and get outside this weekend!
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M –Rest day 5 of 7. Sonia does the Boston marathon :clap2:
Awesome, How did she find it? Rowena had appalling conditions last year! Loved the city though.
Last year was obviously appalling weather so good effort completing it. This year the weather was really hot then a deluge for the last four miles which was welcome giving a chance for her to cool down after ‘heartbreak hill’ at 21 miles. Course was more undulating than she expected. She has run under 4 hours before but came in at 4.25
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Power Club
Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, garage session with a twist, nice. The twist being front3 fingers curls (fingertips pull ups) on 15 mm edge. Then usual one arm hangs on same edge and two arms on 9 mm edge. Trap Bar Deadlifts in between hangs, up to 132 kg, new PB after ages since my last TBD session.
Thu - snatch pulls 5x6 up to 56 kg. Clean and press 5x5. Simple and effective.
Fri - some system and some weights: clean and press x10, pull ups x7, x3. Very tired.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - rest.
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M –Rest day 5 of 7. Sonia does the Boston marathon :clap2:
Awesome, How did she find it? Rowena had appalling conditions last year! Loved the city though.
Last year was obviously appalling weather so good effort completing it. This year the weather was really hot then a deluge for the last four miles which was welcome giving a chance for her to cool down after ‘heartbreak hill’ at 21 miles. Course was more undulating than she expected. She has run under 4 hours before but came in at 4.25
It's a great time! I have similar concerns about weather in London this weekend.
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S: Arapahoe Basin spring skiing. First time skiing for three years. V wobbly at start but got it back quick and was flying towards the end. Only a few wipe-outs as muscles were fatiguing. R knee hurting towards the end of the day so may have overdone it.
Great place. I hit it once just as they opened East Wall traverse after a couple of foot of fresh 2 days before. Just a bonkers free for all. The runs directly off Pallavicini are probably some the steepest lift accessed I've ever done. You need to get over to Winter park too, my old haunt for 2 seasons.
Looking on map, looks like a new BC gate and loads more terrain to get to!
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M - Push day, working on multiple reps. Bench, incline and decline all in the 8-12 rep range and up to 75k. A bit of shoulders work at around 8-10 reps and finish off with some scapular work and core.
Steady treadmill run at lunch as I’m back on call and so struggle to get outside unless I’m running in circles.
Depot in the evening. Warm up with some edge pulls on the 14 mm BM2K edges with 15k added and then on to some campus work. Right arm definitely fires better than left but will keep at it to redress the balance.......playing with the halfway rungs to get similar range of motion in top of movement.
Finish off with strength intervals. Definitely a solid workout for fingers, arms and core.
T - Solid legs session this morning with Squats for triples up to 120 and deadlifts for doubles to 140. Felt better than I have in a while. Pull us and some levers to get some other work done. Crack on with a treadmill run concentrating on form and cadence.
Quick session at the Depot between work stuff. Max hangs on centre of BM followed by a few repeaters, which I need to do a bit more of. Then do a 6 problems in 6 minutes for 3 sets, which gets me tired. Then finish with half an hour on new purples, some flashes, some feel doable with a bit of effort and some feel nails. Goal is to get all this set done before they go. Game on!
W - Push day for 5x5. Bench up to 85k, followed by decline and incline Dumbbell work. A bit of TRX and press ups and finish the session with a bit of shoulder work for each of the three heads of the deltoid. A good solid maintenance session.
Lunch run. Nice and steady, speeding up a bit at the end.
T - Pull day. Quick deadlifts warm up followed by Roman Chair and shrugs. Then do a bit of core work before doing a few sets of doubles on OAP with a bit of weight on RH and a bit of assistance on LH. Last exercise is 10 seconds 90 degree locks which are okay on both arms.
Still on call, so still on treadmill. Steady trot playing around with slower and quicker paced at the end.
Depot in the evening, just for fun. Start off with some edge pulls with 17.5k added for 5 sets. This feels like a really good way to warm my fingers. Then have lots of fun with the purples and a reasonable level of success, although some are definitely going to take a bit of work. Fun times with friends are really what its all about.
F - Long run day, which is particularly long as have to do it on the treadmill. Take it steady and watch a film as I go….two and a bit hours later all done without too much effort.
Stretching and rehab for legs and shoulders later in the day.
S - Push day. Benching for triples up to 100k which I think has been a while since I last did that and then on to triples for decline and incline. Do a bit of volume shoulder pressing which pleasingly is completely without pain. Some TRX work on IYTs and then finish with some tricep accessory work.
Depot session. Warm up with a bit of campusing and pleased that fire off all my benchmarks. Into a project session. Start with Steady Intro on left and do it in two halves, which is best I’ve ever managed. Then go onto the RH version, on which I manage the same......just. Finish project session with Zoo York Medium problem, on which I consistently fall off trying to hold a pinch. Feels like it’s been a battle but making progress on this board. Tick off a few more purples before I go home, although get shut down by an equal number.
Short run in the sun when I get home.
S - Pull day at the gym. More deadlifts followed by rows and Roman chair. Then get into single arm work with 2 reps of OAP for 4 sets, finishing with 4 on RH. Then do some 10 second locks at 90 degrees varying the body position with each set which alters the tension in my shoulders. Finish with some scapular activations and core work.
Steady treadmill trot to get the distance up to target.
Then go to Depot for a chilled session and to get out of the heat. Play with more purples, slowly ticking them off. Do a round of 6 problems in 6 minutes for 3 sets on the purples and finish with minute on two off. Safe to say feel pretty bushed by the end of it, but pleasantly so.
All feels like it's heading in the right direction. Slow and steady does it.
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S: Arapahoe Basin spring skiing. First time skiing for three years. V wobbly at start but got it back quick and was flying towards the end. Only a few wipe-outs as muscles were fatiguing. R knee hurting towards the end of the day so may have overdone it.
Great place. I hit it once just as they opened East Wall traverse after a couple of foot of fresh 2 days before. Just a bonkers free for all. The runs directly off Pallavicini are probably some the steepest lift accessed I've ever done. You need to get over to Winter park too, my old haunt for 2 seasons.
Looking on map, looks like a new BC gate and loads more terrain to get to!
Yeah it was great, and snow was good for the most part - v warm though! Crazy that this area stays open till June!
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Just had a brilliant Easter break and struggling to remember as far back as Monday.
M-stretches including the arm ones. Not entirely sure why. Fingerboard max hangs. Ok session. Strict half crimp up to +32 for 5s on bm med, up to +24 for 10s on bm small.
T-stretches. Thinking during them that if only I knew which stretch to stretch.
W-5k morning jog. stretches. Majored on pigeon this time. Cannot get near but you already knew that.
T-5k morning jog. Curbar after work. Warmed up on trackside but things weren’t going well as fell off strawberries a couple of times and that just doesn’t happen. Bad Lip was massively harder than when I first ticked it which didn’t bode well for Late Junction. BL eventually went but after 7-8 goes rather than 1-2. LJ sequence to BL was a path, but BL always felt hard. Eventually a couple of others turned up and they worked out that the intermediate on BL is actually quite useful. Had 1 maybe 2 good goes on LJ after that and it surely would have gone if fresh.
F-rest. Took kids up Mam Tor.
S-Round 3 on Late Junction. Thursday’s beta turned out to be the way after all and it didn’t put up much of a fight. Took two goes after cocking up the sequence the first time. This go actually survived some foot slip shenanigans. Was really pleased to get it, first of the grade this year.
https://vimeo.com/331559416
I see there’s a fun looking 7C that goes into it so might give that a bash next. Took kids up Win Hill and had a 9k jog on return.
S-took kids to windgather. Stretches.
M (bank holiday bonus) - early morning at griffs. I have def had more sessions than is healthy on Ovine. I just can’t flipping do it. And each time I think this is the one. If only griffs wasn’t such a lovely spot with such great potential I might look elsewhere. Took kids up Lose Hill.
66.0kgs lightest of the year.
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Nice one Murph, strong legging game.
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M:rest
T:rest
W: recruitment hangs then went to Sour Milk Ghyll, managed to do Thermodynamics (7A+) and Lambrini Girls (7B/+) also tried the 7C exit but was strapped for time, so only had 1 go!
T:rest
F: Milestone's buttress, flashed Harvey Oswald stand (7A) and managed to work all the moves to the sit into the last move withing a few goes but was haemorrhaging skin far quicker than reasonable at the start of the bank holiday! Other half wanted to try UFOrb so I tried and sent Robs Roof (7A)
S:rest
S: Lily Savage boulders Inthe morning, managed to get Paul O'Grady stand (6C+/7A) and all the sit moves before it was in the sun, so another one to back to, also managed Lily Savage (7B) after battling a little with the first few moves.
Managed to fall off the jugs of Elephantiasis in the evening when feeling fatigued (definitely should have called it after the session at the Lily Savage boulders in hindsight!)
Had a really productive week so feeling psyched, got a finger that's got some light pain at the base of the A2, but hopefully a lighter week and it'll be fine!
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Strong week Yetix :w00t:
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Some fantastic microaggressions going on here! From subverting the title to reverting it (because my bs is intolerable) to wearing a pair of 80’s style troll pants in a microaggressive masterpiece of satire
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Good Murph. Ovine is a pig (ha!) of a problem. Not dared go back to it yet... really it’s the only one left for me to do there before I up my level a fairly significant notch... and it’s not one I’m especially keen on (that bloody sloper...) anyway.
Mon. Anston. Frodo. Felt terrible. Arrived after the schlep over the Woodhead and lay in my mats sapped of energy and feeling rubbish. Ate my lunch (it was 10:30) but couldn’t be arsed warming up. Was playing on Nazgul LH and tried lots of different sequences that all showed promise but gave up after an hour in full knowledge I was a way from my best. Tennis elbow felt alrightosh afterwards.
We: wasn’t sure whether to go out or not but Nai twisted my arm and I joined him at Rubicon for my first session there this year. Warm ups went well - sketched my way up millers tale first time (usually have to think about it) and felt ok on the rock. Fucked about on Kidos and the Press. Got nowhere on both but didn’t feel hopeless - no worse than last year really - press initially hurt my TE but it felt better after a while. Nai was climbing like a beast.
Fri. Quick morning Helsby hit. Some kind soul built a mini patio under the very slopey landing of the barrel buttress. And with two pads did the V3 roll out the barrel - that’s (for me) highball at 6-7 m. Great problem - slopey sligjtly dirty topout put me well out of my comfort zone and a foot slip as I was pressing out the top mantle gave me a good old adrenaline shot. Then worked the 7B Traverse start into it (Ron Burgundy’s moustache) which felt nails but doable nails compared to previous years I’ve tried it. A summer project... esp as I’ve now done the top (unlike my usual MO).
Easter weekend at parents in Kendal. Couple of short walks and lots of toddler running around activities. Just got back and got the nipper to bed at last :)
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Thanks chaps. I got psyched about jazzy tights from seeing this picture of the Broomgrove glory days. If it was good enough for them...
(https://cdn.ukc2.com/i/319733.jpg)
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Where does one purchase tights like these?
Asking for a friend
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Classic micro aggression there, Shark.
Amazon for £3 or £4. But can’t seem to find them at that price now.
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Rehab Diaries Week Thirty-five
STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Grit Trad list (17/20 remain), onsighting HVS/ low 6s by end of September.
M- Rest. As I usually put on Mondays, battered from the day before.
[bT-S-[/b] Had a cold. Didn't feel ill in myself but not being able to breathe thrpough your nose and coughing all the time isn't a great recipe for training. :(
S- Dovestones Edge (the Chew one) Absolutely brilliant ;D . Walked in from the Binn Green car park which involves a serious slog straight up to the crag (like the WImberry appraoch but with no path so 40-degree heather bashing :sick:)- found it easier than my partner did and realised my back didn't hurt when we got to the crag. It was the first anniversary of being wheelchaired outside the hospital and practising my crutching in the open air for the first time.
Led three Hard Severes including the brilliant Nasal Buttress 8). The crag was amazingly clean and, despite no breeze whatsoever it was lovely conditions in the shade.
M- Wimberry. Even better conditions than the prvious day due to a wind across the crag. Carried both ropes and a full rack up there- probably ~15kg with water etc. :strongbench:. Climbing second day on was easier than the last time I tried it (it couldn't be much tougher!) but my calves and feet completely pumped out while smearing and foot-jamming up Route 1 (HS :look:) so needed two goes to do that. Seconded a VS, couldn't even start an HVS then led Bertie's Bugbear, a route that, even after my mate gardened it on abseil and three of us climbed it while cleaning must still be the dirtiest *** route in the peak by a mile- character building stuff and felt closer to VS than Severe! It's obviously early in the season but it's clear that Wimberry's a crag which is trapped in the people put off by the dirt & vegetation/ gets dirtier and more vegetated/ people get put off by the vegetation/ gets dirtier... cycle which is shocking considering how good it is- in the absence of psyched locals it needs an organised clean-up day really.
Wicked couple of days in the Chew- three routes off my list in three days and lots of exercise & trad practise. Waddling around groaning today! :lol:
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Good effort all , some good bank holiday activity.
M - Fingerboard. Another set of repeaters, still making improvements. Might be time to add a little weight to these, will evaluate after this evenings session.
T - Depot. On the board, went well and felt considerably fitter on the replica I'd set myself the previous week. Did the easy version, the medium version and nearly did it having traversed into it (10 extra moves) several times. Quite pleased with the session, probably need to step it up a bit.
W - rest.
T - Malham after work. Absolutely roasting and poor conditions; forgotten how hard it can feel when not crisp! Felt weak on the boulder but got better as it got cooler and managed my best link yet; from the rest on 7thA to the slap to the tooth. After a short rest linked from lower through the meat of the boulder only to drop it going for the jug; need to hammer this move. Good session after a slow start;getting better on it. Tried to link to bird hole after but tired so came down.
F - rest. Drove to Torridon. Long way but worth it for dinner by the loch in Diabaig.
S - Diabaig. Did Route Two and Black Streak, both stellar. Black Streak in one monster 60m pitch before stripping on rope stretching abseil; felt so good to moving fast and efficiently. Such a good crag; phenomenal rock and what a setting. Fully recommend, worth the drive.
S - Quick hit to do the Pillar (amazing) before driving to Bealach na Ba to do the classic VS Sword of Gideon. Unfortunately it was blowing a gale and dark clouds were massing, and the rock we could see looked like utter choss. I'm sure it isn't up close but it made it hard to be psyched. Parking spot seemed to be a passing place which seemed a dick move on a busy Easter Sunday. Psych was low so after lunch at the top of the pass, allowing the van to cool down, we went back to Torridon and played on the boulders. Gawped at Malcs Arete and fell off Squelch a few times; got scared with one pad! Good effort Coops doing this by yourself. Did some easy problems on lovely rock; great spot and would love to do Malc's at some point.
M - walk up to Seana Mheallan above Torridon. Bit of a grim walk but lovely view on arrival. Rock very interesting, like a sandstone Stanage. Not what you expect in Scotland but if you were local that outcrop style would make a nice change I think. Did a punchy E1 and walked down. Paddled in the river and settled in for the long drive back. BBC Paradise podcast is excellent for those that liked Serial.
This week: will try and do some training this evening before back to Malham Thursday and weekend. Was good to place some wires this weekend and trad climb in Scotland for the first time; psyched to go back!
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Pretty syked by those tights too. The ones I always really wanted were popular circa 1992-3 and had Japanese writing up the side of one leg. They always seemed to appear in Heinz Zak photos.
M - Feeling a bit under the weather still. Took daughter to the wall. Tried the new comp wall set - she loved it, I found everything hard. Then managed to roll ankle jumping off. Hurt a lot - got very worried about plans for rest of the week. Tried BM2000 which I never usually do at the wall. Surprised myself by hanging 45 degree slopers for a few goes between 3 - 10 seconds. YYFY. Limped up to circuit board and did most of new 7a first go.
T - White Spider with daughter. Took a lot of ibuprofen. Tried to exhaust her first, but not that easy any more. Did ok on auto belays, but generally felty heavy and shoulder / ankle pain not exactly conducive to max enthusiasm.
W - Mini repeaters session.
T - Torbryan - Coaching session to (hopefully) diagnose what I need to do to move my sport climbing on a bit. Warmed up on Bedrock 6b+, which was surprisingly technical. Got quite anxious. Failed to flash Mayday 6c - weird high step caught me out and took a few goes to figure out before leading it cleanly. Split a tip in the process. Moved on to Barney Rubble 7a+. Short-term sequence memory was terrible and made a lot of silly mistakes. Came quite close to the tick, but inn the end it was not to be. Skin in a bit of a mess, worn out, etc but a brilliant day. The routes were super high quality - Barney Rubble especially had some wonderful steep juggy sections and all very unUKlike.
F - Popped to wall in the evening as lots planned over weekend. Tried some good new things on the steep prow. Pretty fatigued.
S - Massive garden clearance / crap shifting. Worn out.
S - Daughter’s birthday. Cooked enormous meat feast on barbecue. Ate too much. Drank a lot of alcohol free beer. Reminded myself that in previous life I would be looking forward to a 2-day hangover.
Weight hovering around 88-89kg, and need to address this once kids are back at school. Shoulder is still causing problems so need to get organised and sort appointment with physio. Have reread The Kettle’s book and have drawn up list of things to work on, not least route reading / sequence memory. Also going to work hard on route volume outside - sandstone midweek and also get back to Dorset and SW asap for some protracted shunting sessions. Aim is to get back down to Devon in a month or two hopefully prepared for some quality goes on Empire at Ansteys.
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M – Gym, legs and chest.
T – Tried to do a double work out, max hangs at lunchtime but was really pushed for time and one of my A2 pulleys didn’t thank me for pathetic rushed warm up. Wanted to work An-Cap in evening but did some aerobic stuff instead as finger pulley felt odd.
W – Finger still felt a little off so did another light aerobic session instead.
Th – Yoga. Thought I’d give it a try.
F - Trollers Gill, warmed up on sunny side then on sighted a 6c+ that was quite hard to read then realised after reading guide I had gone too direct. Dogged up BTB Smouldering Globules Of Lust 7c to work, managed to unravel start and had two RP attempts powering out on a crimp move just before a fairly good shake out.
Sat - Ninety mins of antagonistic and core work out on rings and TRX.
Sun – Trollers again, warmed up on some rubbish 6a+ then BTB up Smouldering Globules Of Lust and got it first RP. Typical first route nerves! Got cool time lapse video on insta, see link below. Belayed girlfriend most of the day then reto flashed Barguest Direct to finish off.
Good week, great to be out on Limestone again, first new 7c for me for couple of years and felt like came together quite quickly.
Trying not to eat to many cookies or carbohydrates, diet has been better, it’s helping increasing protein intake even if I have to result to protein shakes. Think the odd feeling in my finger is just a reminder to keep doing antagonistic and supporting work to cope with increased finger strength from Max Hangs.
https://instagram.com/p/BwiCislD8HE/
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Gawped at Malcs Arete and fell off Squelch a few times; got scared with one pad! Good effort Coops doing this by yourself.
Haha, I was not by myself! Although she's small, you can just make out my gf spotting in the video of me - makes all the difference. It is such a sick place:
https://vimeo.com/263383867
Moved on to Barney Rubble 7a+. Short-term sequence memory was terrible and made a lot of silly mistakes. Came quite close to the tick, but inn the end it was not to be. Skin in a bit of a mess, worn out, etc but a brilliant day. The routes were super high quality - Barney Rubble especially had some wonderful steep juggy sections and all very unUKlike.
Yes! This is one of my favourite routes in UK
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S - Daughter’s birthday. Cooked enormous meat feast on barbecue. Ate too much. Drank a lot of alcohol free beer. Reminded myself that in previous life I would be looking forward to a 2-day hangover.
(thumbsup emoticon that seems to be missing!)
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classic VS Sword of Gideon.
Seana Mheallan
It's always blowing a hoolie up there. Was bright and sunnywhen we did it, but I nearly got blown off the traverse at the top. It's an obvious clean buttress, way cleaner than the rest of the routes (which look a bit crap), the first pitch is a bit of a non-entity, but worth it for the rest of the route.
Seana Mheallan gets called Sienna Miller as no-one can pronounce it properly. Boulders at the bottom of the pass are worth it for a quick hit too.
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Haha, I was not by myself! Although she's small, you can just make out my gf spotting in the video of me - makes all the difference. It is such a sick place:
I had a spot too, but didn't fancy those slopers in sweaty conditions! Good effort regardless, its a big chunk of rock with one pad under you. I didn't know the jump start was a thing so was doing it from that low jug at the back which on reflection seems to be the sit start. Oh well, another thing to go back for! Thought the f5 thing on the back was glorious too.
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I did Squelch completely on my own but didn't do the eliminate right-hand finish which might have helped matters, as was it being bleak winter-time...
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S - Diabaig. Did Route Two and Black Streak, both stellar. Black Streak in one monster 60m pitch before stripping on rope stretching abseil; felt so good to moving fast and efficiently. Such a good crag; phenomenal rock and what a setting. Fully recommend, worth the drive.
S - Quick hit to do the Pillar (amazing)
How did the Pillar compare to Route Two? I was there last week and did the former before rain stopped play but someone at the crag told me they found the Pillar easier of the two.
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Not done The Pillar, but I know some people don't like some of the balancy scoops on Route 2 (such a demeaning name).
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I did Squelch completely on my own but didn't do the eliminate right-hand finish which might have helped matters, as was it being bleak winter-time...
What's the eliminate right-hand finish Fiend?
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How did the Pillar compare to Route Two? I was there last week and did the former before rain stopped play but someone at the crag told me they found the Pillar easier of the two.
I'd say the Pillar is a pretty steady E2, would be E1 with a bit more kit or if the kit there was was a bit bigger (nothing bigger than rock 4 from about 1/3 height I don't think). The crux for me was a committing sequence on small crimps leaving a juggy rail with some average hard to place kit in. Its a fairly brief sequence but I did have to pull down and the next gear is a fair way up. I think Route 2 is pretty chunky at HVS, that second pitch is hard, but its quite short lived difficulties and the gear is stonking. Don't think that pitch is far off 5b so same tech grade as the Pillar perhaps. Both amazing! Shame Allan Austin couldn't think of some better names for his routes on the main face...
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Gaz, the one where you ignore the good sidepulls just left.
I.e. not the traditional version I do at 0:46 here:
https://vimeo.com/52809241
The Pillar is E1.5 boldness plus E1.5 sustainedness and thus spot on for the grade.
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Power Club
Goals: Remain Uninjured , 62kg, back to bouldering 7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still OK, 76.5kg, 6C regularly (7A indoors)
M - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
T - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
W - outdoor bouldering second time this year to Craig-Y-Longridge. again got about 2 hours before it went dark. conditions weren't bad, still bumbling about on 5 - 6B's.
T - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
F - Craig-Y in the morning, was nice to see the problems in daylight. Tried Pump till you jump without the top edge, it felt miles to the top, I also worked the start to Big Marine, managed to get the first move consistently and the second a couple of times but then had to leave.
S - Rest
S - Rest
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Goals: Remain Uninjured , 62kg, back to bouldering 7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still OK, 76.5kg, 6C regularly (7A indoors)
Reckon if you manage goal 2 then goals 1 and 3 will pretty much take care of themselves!
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Goals: Remain Uninjured , 62kg, back to bouldering 7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still OK, 76.5kg, 6C regularly (7A indoors)
Reckon if you manage goal 2 then goals 1 and 3 will pretty much take care of themselves!
Thanks, I have noticed a fair amount of improvement since June, when I was able to climb again. I was 93.4 kg's then
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That's impressive since June, well done!
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Thanks, I have noticed a fair amount of improvement since June, when I was able to climb again. I was 93.4 kg's then
Amazing work - well done. I was / am in a similar boat. 110kg to just under 90kg, with another 10 to go.
Best of luck with pushing onwards!
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Glorious weather last week on the west coast has allowed me to continue my search for chossy delights!
M - Went to the wall for the first time in a while. Felt much stronger from only hanging and getting out on rock. Managed to get up my jenga blocks testpiece on the panel, and a few other hard ones, as well as make progress on some projects. Felt good!
T - Well needed rest day from the previous weeks training.
W - Standard hang session. One arm half crimp and front three dragging on the low rung, with a bunch of two arm front two (a weakness of mine) thrown in.
T - Back to Aberystwyth north beach for some chossy action. Managed to tidy up a harder, higher version of the FA I did l the week before, giving birth to DEET. I reckoned around 7B ish with some really nice moves albeit on snappy rock. Also did a harder eliminate version of this.
F - Back down to the beach below Allt-Wen, south of aber, for some more development. I decided to approach some of the rock that I had seen but walked past last time, and found a whole bunch of new problems. In particular a few steep board-style problems on a steep bit of rock under a suspiciously landslidey looking bluff. I managed to grab a few really nice ascents of some high 6's and low 7's before the hill came down on my head. Also made theoretical (rather than practical) progress on a hard lip traverse project on dog whelk roof, but the slopers where just way too warm to actually execute any of the moves. Lovely day in the sun.
S - Back to north beach for some drinks and a bit of climbing with a friend. Cruised all my problems down there this time then retired to the pub after we ran out of beer. Got some funny looks ordering a pint in a busy pub with a pad on my back.
S - Ysgo next day, so rest.
Great week for getting out and pulling bits of suspicious rock off. Loving this hard choss at the moment.
Shameless plug of a shameless page: I am trying to document all the western biscuit I climb on my instagram if anyone is interested https://www.instagram.com/arfavmo/
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Gaz, the one where you ignore the good sidepulls just left.
I.e. not the traditional version I do at 0:46 here:
https://vimeo.com/52809241
Traditional version! In all the times I've done it it's never even crossed my mind to go round the arete and finish that way and in 10 years of bouldering in the glen I've never seen anyone else go that way either. To me it's always felt totally natural to keep straight on up the right side of the arete, the holds are all there. At least now I've got something new to do on my next visit!
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Just climbing the line by the easiest logical method using the holds in reach (an outdated concept in bouldering, I know).... I think it's usually described with the sloper finish but #whatever.
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Just climbing the line by the easiest logical method using the holds in reach (an outdated concept in bouldering, I know).... I think it's usually described with the sloper finish but #whatever.
On the contrary - it is eliminates and rules that have gone out of fashion
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Ah, I thought the sloper scrap at the top sweetened the prize, your way looks good too though :)
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That's an interesting concept sharkling, but I'm sure you used the wrong side of the pebble when you posted it - back around.
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Tue April 16
Climbing outdoors, Super Manjoc
7a/+ rp
8b+ Hangdog. Opened account on Disciple de Pyrrhon, a fairly short route with about 20 hard moves after some opening 7a-ish climbing. I did all moves except three (the crux)
8b+ Hangdog. 2nd time up and I managed to do the remaining moves, just… Did the three hard moves in “overlapping halfs” (2 moves + 2 moves) possibly helped a bit by tight top-rope
Fairly destroyed after this. Lost quite a bit of skin
Thu April 18
Climbing outdoors, Super Manjoc
6c rp.
8b+ hangdog (Disciple). Was too tired from tuesday’s session. Sussed out the intense climbing on the double tufa after the hardest moves. Couldn’t link the crux, which was the goal of today. Tried Alizée’s sequence on the crux, which was as impossible as expected.
8b+ hangdog (Disciple). Ouch. could still not do the crux. Totally spent. Forgot a draw on the route.
Finished the day by optimistically trying to dog an 8b. Manage to struggle up to the crux boulderproblem. Looked at it. Decided I’d have nothing of that.
Overly optimistic to return to supermanjoc after only one day of rest. Lesson learned.
Sat April 20
Climbing outdoors, Gorges du Tarn
Still pretty depleted from last two weeks excessive volume of climbing.
7a+ rp. 56m. A route I onsighted a few years back, so felt mostly like onsighting. Way too long and fiddly for warmup.
8a (Astrotarn) HD. Quite wet on the crack (first 20 m). Felt totally out of my element on the pockets. Where are all the pinches and kneebars?
8a (Astrotarn) HD. Second hd of astrotarn sussing out more of the moves. The crack was even wetter (seeping) later in the evening.
I need at least two days of rest soon, but I am on belay duty this easter weekend.