UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: daddy long legs on December 21, 2015, 03:53:13 pm
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Hey UKB,
I've got the old (2001) Rockfax Yorkshire grit bouldering guide and also got the Northern England Rockfax guide from a fair few years ago, but doesn't contain enough problems.
I'm looking for the best definitive bouldering guide (specifically including Almcliff). What are the options?
I've seen the Total Climbing Yorks grit vol. 1 guide, but it was printed in 2008. Is that still the best one?
Cheers
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On the grit, I'm a big fan of guides with both routes and bouldering together, because many venues have brilliant routes to highball or be soloed. As bouldering has become more important and popular, and highballing routes more common, newer definitive guides tend to give better coverage reflecting these aspirations. In short, I think the YMC Yorkshire Gritstone guide vol.1 is flipping great and would serve anyone going to Almscliff extremely well. Plus, it also covers the Slipstones as well.
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Thanks, I'll check it out. How much of the bouldering does it cover though, as I'm already pretty familiar with all the routes at Alsmcliff?
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Good enough coverage for me as a visitor but I guess you'll have to make your own mind up, maybe a devotee can pipe up with another opinion.
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Any other opinions on what the best current bouldering guide for Almscliff is?
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There's more bouldering in the Green YMC guide than in the Total Climbing one IIRC.
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Thanks. Think that's the one I'll get as it looks like a great guide anyway and also the most recent.
Cheers for the help!
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Dear Santa....... :)
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None of the guidebooks are fully definitive, but YMC is probably the closest. YMC will be more than good enough combined with the Alan Cameron-Duff guide. Then again, I suppose my definition of definitive is a long-shot anyway because I know of at least 25 problems on Demon Wall Roof that aren't in any guidebook (yet).
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I got 25 problems but the roof ain't one.
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What are the 25 andy_e?
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What are the 25 andy_e?
+1,
share the wealth.
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http://peakbouldering.info/areas/9-yorkshire-grit/crags/185-almscliff/boulders/865-demon-wall-roof#.VocLuuCnxTc
There are more than on here... DWR 3 moves, for example, then all the others which are variations thereof.
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Insightful
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I think the YMC Yorkshire Gritstone guide vol.1 is flipping great
+1
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Anyone still got a copy of the Cameron Duff guide they no longer need?
I'd be keen to take it off your hands.
Gotta tick all those cliff eliminates.
Possible 3 of the 25
DWR using 3 fingers from each hand and left foot only
Stu's Roof but missing every hold that coincides with a prime number
Dolphin Belly Slap without physically touching the rock, but breathing is allowed
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Anyone still got a copy of the Cameron Duff guide they no longer need?
I'd be keen to take it off your hands.
I've got a copy, will DM you
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Stu's Roof but missing every hold that coincides with a prime number
Brilliant! Don't forget the fibonacci variant
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There are more than on here... DWR 3 moves, for example, then all the others which are variations thereof.
Fascinated by the idea of DWR in three moves, it’s a lot of ground to cover from the flake at the back to the second break! Dyno around the lip to the good crimp then dyno from there to the mono?!
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There are more than on here... DWR 3 moves, for example, then all the others which are variations thereof.
Fascinated by the idea of DWR in three moves, it’s a lot of ground to cover from the flake at the back to the second break! Dyno around the lip to the good crimp then dyno from there to the mono?!
https://vimeo.com/155381548
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My maths may be a little off here, but that looked like six moves…
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My maths may be a little off here, but that looked like six moves…
He did it twice.
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I'm pretty sure he mentioned to me at some point that he's done it without matching the ear and omitting the top pocket.
I still can't get over how piss he makes the ear move look.
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I still can't get over how piss he makes the ear move look.
Hydraulic!
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That move to the ear is hard too eh? Or certainly a dynamic lunge for me haha.
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Yeah that's impressive, I've always had to wind it up and throw for it!
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My maths may be a little off here, but that looked like six moves…
Here's another one of the 25 variations. "DWR in 7 moves". Slightly harder than the 3/6 move variation above since it actually skips the pocket.
https://vimeo.com/134145625