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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Monolith on March 01, 2006, 03:43:02 pm

Title: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on March 01, 2006, 03:43:02 pm
anyone know anything about the mysterious west derby railway cuttings bouldering venue in liverpool. Sounds promising but need to know more/see some topos.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: tubbs on March 02, 2006, 01:13:51 pm
Quote from: "millso17"
anyone know anything about the mysterious west derby railway cuttings bouldering venue in liverpool. Sounds promising but need to know more/see some topos.


Grim landing onto pavement.
In a housing estate and overlooked by tower blocks
Very highball
In Liverpool

And that's from 20 years back when I visited.

Go to Pex.
Title: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: fatneck on March 02, 2006, 08:00:26 pm
Never been but am pretty sure it's shit or I would have been there. There's a topo in an old On The Edge and I'm sure there's a copy at Awesome Walls. I kind of thought it was more a toproping venue than bouldering.....?

Quote from: "tubbs"
Grim landing onto pavement.
In a housing estate and overlooked by tower blocks
Very highball
In Liverpool


 :lol: You could no doubt add "overgrown" and "green" to that list if I know Merseyside Sandstone!

Your description reminds me of an even shadier venue not far from Everton Valley.....
Title: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on March 03, 2006, 06:29:56 pm
sounds..........interesting. Reckon its gonna be one of those places that eventually gets the better of you and no matter how shit you're told it is, you still have to go and look. The story of much north west sandstone climbing really.
Title: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: fatneck on March 04, 2006, 10:38:43 pm
Quote from: "millso17"
sounds..........interesting. Reckon its gonna be one of those places that eventually gets the better of you and no matter how shit you're told it is, you still have to go and look. The story of much north west sandstone climbing really.


Indeed, have spent quite a bit of time wandering the Merseyside/Cheshire sandstone looking at possible lines of esoteric interest while I've been injured.

Was up at Frodsham today checking out a few lines off the beaten track with the kids (and enjoying the snow!)
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on November 28, 2006, 10:27:17 am
Grim landing onto pavement.
In a housing estate and overlooked by tower blocks
Very highball
In Liverpool

Does/did anyone ever have a topo? Heard there was a chap from the Lakes or Lancs who had made one and you could mail off to get one. Is this still the case?
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: fatneck on January 20, 2007, 09:04:28 pm
Tom, just re-found this thread!
Went for a walk with the kids last weekend along the old Loop Line train track around Old Swan and was intrigued to find a substantial amount of quality, quarried, good old Cheshire Sandstone! After which, I decided to organise a cycle trip with the kids along the entire length of the loop, five or six miles all told, and ending in the West Derby area. As soon as this happens I will let you know if I find anything worth going back for! (This may take some time!)

Recently re-checked the wall I mentioned earlier in the thread (in Everton Valley) and I think it probably wouldn't be worth the effort due to poor rock quality. Shame, as it's a decent height. Will show you it one day...
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on January 21, 2007, 12:39:46 am
I'm still convinced that WDC yields some decent bouldering. And as for the urban element - bring it on.
Wasn't it a guy from South Lakes that produced a topo for the venue? Tried emailing him a few months back but it appears his hotmail account is now inactive. I doubt anyone can shed any light on the place and are far from interested in it, but being from the North West, urban bouldering has become my raison d'etre!

Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on March 02, 2007, 04:03:15 pm
Finally have a copy of this elusive document. Lots of hard lines still to be done according to the author (who incidentally has said that this file may now be distributed for free).

If anyone in the NW is keen, let me know and I'll email it to you.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on April 20, 2007, 09:10:12 am
O.K. Here's the topo for this place. I haven't been but intend to go this week. I'm going to ignore all the comments about anything to do with scallies, rapists, needles, radioactive waste etc as that's how many north west venues have been described to me, only to go there and find such descriptions to be a load of tripe.

If I do end up battered, raped, with a needle stuck in my foot and dosed up to the eyeballs with Plutonium, please feel free to say 'I told you so'.

Venture at your peril ( ;)) with this (http://www.sendspace.com/file/ntz4ae) this topo...

P.S The topo is classic MS Word circa 95 so brace yourself for some 'interesting' artwork and drawings.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: BenF on April 20, 2007, 09:13:17 am
Hey, I said I'd come along didn't I?  However, I can't do this weekend, as I'm washing my hair.  And next weekend it's my turn to clean the car.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on April 20, 2007, 09:22:55 am
Precisely  ;) (can't stop wInking today)

The information is now there and the option is yours my friend..
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: BenF on April 20, 2007, 10:45:20 am
Options...   Hmmmmm....   North Wales or West Derby?   I just cannot decide.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: fatneck on April 21, 2007, 10:48:35 pm
Possibly got a couple of hours free tomorrow afternoon if anyone's keen for some exploring?
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on April 21, 2007, 10:57:42 pm
Asking me if I want to go and explore the core of urban bouldering is like asking a child if they want candy. After I've been to see these Anthony Gormley figures in the morning, I'm game I'm pretty sure (need to OK with Jess). Good move Si.

Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: andy_e on April 24, 2007, 12:45:56 am
(can't stop wInking today)

I know what you mean. Some days I... wait a minute, that's an I!
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on May 21, 2007, 11:13:00 pm
Finally started projecting some of the unclimbed lines here. Nice, tough 3 movers just the way I like it.
The rock is super compact sandstone and is very much like Pex (but in a nicer setting).

Some shots anyway:

Wank Away SDS

(http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/5047/tomclimbingliverpoolandzg7.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)

Some dodgy chap I came across. (Shot for scale really)


(http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/795/tomclimbingliverpoolandql5.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)

Current project that needs last "holds" brushing

(http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/3944/tomclimbingliverpoolandrc0.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)

Early move on Wank Away SDS

(http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/7388/tomclimbingliverpoolandkb9.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)

I'm going to produce an updated topo once appropriate additions have been completed. There's an excellent thin thin crack traverse with a dyno finish that needs to be done and some other obvious things that haven't been done or documented. In a really nice setting too by the way.

PM for info if desired (unlikely).

Not sure what Tubbs ever meant by grim landing onto a pavement in a housing estate? Think you must have been in Everton valley or something there.

P.S Jim, you will like this venue.



Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 22, 2007, 12:15:51 am
Looks good. Clean rock, friendly landing, and no graffitti - must be in a posh area!

What are the top outs like? Or do you jump back to the pads?
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: fatneck on May 22, 2007, 07:14:42 am
You jump back on to pads. I managed a quick visit yesterday and managed to pull some holds off attempting to top it out, I won't be trying that again!

(http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/5047/tomclimbingliverpoolandzg7.jpg)

You really are too tall Tom, I had to get both feet really high and go with the right on that one. Sit start looks nails. Also, on your project wall (a little right of most of the (pitifull) holds you cleaned) is a T cut in the rock and I found it possible to pull on using this as a side pull and hit a thin break with an in situ fern at about 3/4 height, you'll piss it this way. The thin crack traverse shouldn't be that hard as the last move goes fairly static.

I did find the number of cyclists a bit unnerving, but will definately go back with a pair of gardening shears!

Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: BenF on May 22, 2007, 07:49:33 am
Alright, you win.  ;)
I shall go down and check this place out now that the reconnaissance division has done its work.  It looks pretty good, but I'm still glad I went to Woodwell last night instead.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: chappers on May 22, 2007, 08:06:19 am
i cant see the pics?? and all your positive talk makes it sound good...is it?
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Andy F on May 22, 2007, 08:10:12 am
They do look good. If the weather stay's fine I may well head down there tonite. Tom, Ben, you fancy it?
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: BenF on May 22, 2007, 08:40:47 am
If only Andy.  I've got a bloody post grad tutorial thingy tonight so will have to expend my excess energy running around the mean streets of Toxteth.  Was planning to go to Woodwell today, but realised my error and made the trip up there last night.  Was bloody lovely up at Woodwell actually.  Really peaceful and a true rural idyll.  Anyway, I digress... 

May be at the board on Thursday though. 
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on May 22, 2007, 08:45:54 am
Andy - I'm unlikely to go tonight as have to go back over the water late on.

Ben - Your bitch has done his work, I'm glad it pleases you  ;)

Chappers - Not sure why you can't see the pictures? Perhaps due to a setting in your browser? As for making it sound good - I love compact sandstone in semi-urban areas. Whether or not you do remains to be seen! Come down and if you don't like it, we can find something else to do.

Pantontino - The landings are good, if a little muddy in places at the minute (they'll soon dry up). As Fatneck says, it's a jump back onto pad affair, although in the old topo the existing problems top out. I think they must have done a load of weeding back in the day.

Fatneck - I think you were looking at a different line as the engraved 'T' isn't on project x. I know where you mean though. I'll have to head down with you soon to show you what's been done and what's to go. Obviously there is so much potential for tougher numbers than currently exist. Brushes and secetares needed indeed! Also, I think we must have our wires crossed on the envisioned traverse/dyno finish. It's a big move where feet come off clean.

It's worth noting that there is a lot more rock along the loop line, but so far access has only been agreed with SusTrans to climb on the section documented in the old topo and shown in the photographs here. This could well change if anything further down looks cleanable and we write to Sustrans.

Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: BenF on May 22, 2007, 09:28:10 am
Ben - Your bitch has done his work, I'm glad it pleases you  ;)

At least you know your place, ho.

Now you've got me keen, how many problems are there at this new Crag Y oh Y?  What's the grade spread?
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on May 22, 2007, 04:37:27 pm
Grade spread is from around V1 to V unknown. Many of the old lines need cleaning and it needs some futuristic vision. Some of the projects there would go at big numbers.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: chappers on May 22, 2007, 04:52:09 pm
now i am home, i can see the pics. it does look quite good. maybe ill see you down there next week tom...half term  :dance1:
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on May 22, 2007, 04:56:46 pm
Excellent! Any chance to sandbag you Chris is warmly welcomed  ;D

Jokes aside, it would be good to catchup and start working our way through some of the potential.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: chappers on May 22, 2007, 04:59:34 pm
fuck me you are fast, watching this forum like a hawk! there i am texting you because im guessing you are out climbing!
sweet, we will take the video camera and get a promo vid made for the place.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on May 22, 2007, 05:04:16 pm
Hawking like a Hawker! Will be climbing in a bit, just topping up my multi-media nodes for an hour pre-training. See you soon Spielberg  :-*
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: tubbs on May 22, 2007, 07:43:09 pm
Funny how time affects your brain. The crag I visited all those years ago was indeed in a manky housing estate with pavement landings, but perhaps it was the Everton valley?  I remember reading about an alternative to Pex in 1986 whilst at Liverpool Uni and getting a ride on the back of my mate "hairy" Steve's motorbike to the place. We spent about 30 secs checking it out and then went to Pex.

The photos look like a pretty nice spot!
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: BenF on May 23, 2007, 08:26:29 am
fuck me you are fast, watching this forum like a hawk!

Tom never leaves UKB for more than twenty minutes, day or night.  He even has his alarm clock set to ring whenever someone posts on the forum or makes a karma change.  Just to make sure that he is ahead of the game. 

Sometimes he actually knows about news reports before they are even posted.  Many a time I have thought "oh, I bet Tom would be interested in this thread, I'll tell him about it" or "I bet Tom will be along in a bit to post on this topic", only to find that he has already been there and added his sage like wisdom.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: tc on May 23, 2007, 12:33:55 pm
Can we have a look at the topo/ directions please, la? The last link has expired
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on May 24, 2007, 09:40:49 am
Click here (http://www.sendspace.com/file/10zcl4) tc et al. for the rather stylish topo.

P.S Shall send you a return email tc when I work out some dates for meeting up at a certain venue in the promised land (as the scousers call it).

P.P.S Ben you are such a loveable twat  :lol:
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: tc on May 24, 2007, 12:10:08 pm
P.S Shall send you a return email tc when I work out some dates for meeting up at a certain venue in the promised land (as the scousers call it).

I'm away until mid-June climbing rocks with my bare hands but get in touch after that and I'll come down and provide the historical context
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: dazzle482000 on May 30, 2011, 04:44:28 pm
Click here (http://www.sendspace.com/file/10zcl4) tc et al. for the rather stylish topo.

P.S Shall send you a return email tc when I work out some dates for meeting up at a certain venue in the promised land (as the scousers call it).

P.P.S Ben you are such a loveable twat  :lol:

Any chance you could email us this topo?
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: andy_e on May 31, 2011, 12:14:51 am
Did Wank Away SS ever get done?
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on June 09, 2011, 10:22:56 am
Dazzle, sorry I think I pm'd you the other week. I haven't been able to unearth the topo for this after going through various inboxes. I can try a friend I'll be seeing in the next week who I think might have a copy somewhere. I wouldn't get your hopes up wildly for the place but if you're in the vicinity, it might be worth pottering for a couple of hours. I'll keep you posted.

Andi, I never found time to go back and look at cleaning the place properly. I doubt I probably will now.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: andy popp on June 09, 2011, 12:35:50 pm
Looking at the photos again I still find myself strangely tempted!

Tom, this needs to be in the guide, do you fancy doing it. Short thing, location, character, not exhaustive at all, just indicating some of the better/more obvious problems?

C'mon, you know you're up for it.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on June 09, 2011, 08:41:00 pm
Ah the guide! I meant to ask about that Andy a while ago. I wasn't sure if it was going through to the print stage yet or not but I don't mind helping out if you think it would be worth a mention in the backwaters section (if there will be such a thing). I'll also need to find the missing topo which I can look into this week. If you want to pm me any specifics as to the format of the data/further required information or anything just feel free mate.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: andy_e on June 09, 2011, 09:06:05 pm
I haven't been able to unearth the topo for this

It was probably on your hard drive  ;)
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: andy popp on June 13, 2011, 08:34:34 am
if you think it would be worth a mention in the backwaters section (if there will be such a thing).

Let's face it, its going to be one big backwater section. Have pm'd you.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: DannyNuttall on September 03, 2011, 02:25:31 pm
hey, i'm fairly new to bouldering and was wondering is west derby cuttings an ideal place for new climbers? its just that i'm trying to up my climbing grade and get stronger? cheers.

danny :)
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: fatneck on September 03, 2011, 04:54:13 pm
Hi Danny,

I would say, probably not! I would stick to Pex and the Breck and look to get to North Wales and on Grit as much as possible.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: Monolith on September 06, 2011, 01:19:26 am
Agreed.

Incidentally I've unearthed the old topo this week and am looking to update/tidy any details up. Don't all start your engines at once. No, really, don't.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: youngy on September 12, 2011, 04:11:34 pm
Hi Danny,

I would say, probably not! I would stick to Pex and the Breck and look to get to North Wales and climb in the cave as much as possible.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: BenF on September 12, 2011, 04:15:54 pm
Hi Danny,

I would say, probably not! I would stick to Pex and the Breck and look to get to North Wales and not listen to any of the other scouse boulderers as they only seem to know the way to the Cave.  Honestly boys, there are other bits of rock in Wales.  Some of them are higher than 4 metres as well.
Title: Re: west derby cuttings bouldering
Post by: youngy on September 12, 2011, 04:47:30 pm
higher than 4 metres as well.

WOAH! careful Ben thats verging on trad that high  :P
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