UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: IanPeak on April 05, 2022, 07:26:49 am

Title: Glass Hour Left-Hand start ? - Stanage
Post by: IanPeak on April 05, 2022, 07:26:49 am
I wanted to get some feedback for the start of glass hour left hand at stanage

a group from my wall went out over the weekend and had a great session at stanage
but one climb for me seems off everyone climbed glass hour left hand making moves off the shelf below the problem
before standing up on to the problem

for me everything on the hour glass block has always used the bottom shelf as the "floor" and not part of the problem just for the pull on
otherwise you would be able to dyno up to the jug from the floor on glass hour for example

but everyone is adamant it is in

Opinions please
Title: Re: Glass Hour Left-Hand start ? - Stanage
Post by: Carliios on April 05, 2022, 08:04:50 am
I wanted to get some feedback for the start of glass hour left hand at stanage

a group from my wall went out over the weekend and had a great session at stanage
but one climb for me seems off everyone climbed glass hour left hand making moves off the shelf below the problem
before standing up on to the problem

for me everything on the hour glass block has always used the bottom shelf as the "floor" and not part of the problem just for the pull on
otherwise you would be able to dyno up to the jug from the floor on glass hour for example

but everyone is adamant it is in

Opinions please

There’s nothing stating that footblock is out and also, unless you’re freakishly tall it would essentially be impossible without stepping onto the block before pulling on.

I’ll be honest though, it definitely didn’t feel 7A+ to me when I did it but I’ve heard taller people struggle with it more so who knows.
Title: Re: Glass Hour Left-Hand start ? - Stanage
Post by: IanPeak on April 05, 2022, 08:18:07 am
Yeah I think the foot block is on for the pull on as for glass hour

But not to make moves off as a foot hold is my take on it
Title: Re: Glass Hour Left-Hand start ? - Stanage
Post by: Kingy on April 05, 2022, 08:44:04 am
Yep, the shelf is to pull on to the arete only. No French starts  :please:  :P
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal