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the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: rsp123 on August 08, 2022, 07:35:23 pm

Title: Eye of Nowt - Cucklett Delph
Post by: rsp123 on August 08, 2022, 07:35:23 pm

Anyone have any beta for the top of this? I can't work it out. It seems harder than the 7a finish. Is the Alacrity pinch in?

Title: Re: Eye of Nowt - Cucklett Delph
Post by: remus on August 08, 2022, 07:44:45 pm

Vague beta incoming...

I get setup like this https://photos.app.goo.gl/ubBpxc9NaQxsK9m16 to get RH on something pretty decent, then go lh high to something not that good, build my feet up then pop to a good jug high and right. Feels a bit spicy as it's all a bit chossy up there.

I don't use the alacrity hold.

Title: Re: Eye of Nowt - Cucklett Delph
Post by: rsp123 on August 08, 2022, 09:38:03 pm

Similar to this? https://youtu.be/DnbkpEEjMtk

Is that the right finish jug? Did you manage to get the top statically or was it a cut loose?

Title: Re: Eye of Nowt - Cucklett Delph
Post by: remus on August 09, 2022, 06:42:25 am

Yeah that looks pretty similar. I've done it statically and with a cut loose, when you get the right bit of the top it's pretty good so both work.

Title: Re: Eye of Nowt - Cucklett Delph
Post by: Wood FT on August 09, 2022, 06:32:18 pm

This has never seen 6C, it would be 7A at the Tor...

Title: Re: Eye of Nowt - Cucklett Delph
Post by: rsp123 on August 09, 2022, 07:47:59 pm

I'll try it with some higher feet/more gusto for the top next time.

It is pretty stiff for 6C. I was wondering if I had missed something obvious at the top but I guess not.