Week away in Wales:
M - Had a rough provisional plan to climb at either Dinbren or Pen Trwyn on Tuesday so headed to Tremerchion to try 36 Flags which I'd done all but the final match last summer. Reasoned it was in the middle and I could go either way from there. Took my time warming up on Flag of Iron, final match was still proving tricky but eventually sussed the feet and got it, then did 36 straight away. Cool, good start. As I left received a message, potential partner for tomorrow bailing. Balls, two hours of daylight left. The cave was closer but it was a lovely evening so gambled on the Pass. Was a bit cold and grey up there but dry. The biggest gap in my roadside ticklist is Cave Route but feeling like I'd be short of pads started trying **** KING LINE ALERT *****
Chocolate Moose instead. Felt nails to start with, then did the 6C version then soon after linked the classic diagonal rail -> slopey pocket -> crozzly pocket ->ramp. King of the King Lines, me.
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T - woke up to rain in Nant Peris. Initial thought was Porth Ysgo but tide times we'ren't helpful so was resigned to plan Z, The Cave. Unfortunately it was a bit of a mess, the only things dry were Left Wall Traverse and Cave Right Hand. CRH is clearly log so set about warming up then trying sections of, then working links of LWT. Couldn't do the start unfortunately so had to start at the shothole and even that felt like it was going to get away from me when I slipped off the match at the pillar twice, but got it third full attempt. Pretty pleased, that's 3 move and 23 (ish) move 7As back to back.
W - rest day
Th - All time classic Welsh weather. Woke up next to Lllyn Ogwen to mint blue skies.
Headed up to Sheep Pen, bit of a false start not managing Klem's Arete but moved on to find his Bulge which I did about third attempt. Slightly disappointed as it clearly isn't the 7A the guide suggests. Tried the eliminate/original which is more like it. Both good problems though, proper basic burliness at an affordable grade.
Moved onto The Pinch, took a few attempts but once you work out the right footholds for you it's ok, a real classic pop. Did a few 6B/C things mostly first or second go then did the link of Toe Dragon into Dog Shooter for a 3rd 7A+ of the day. Great day, had walked up in thermals and down but ended up in a tee shirt and needing a sunhat.
Klem's Bulge original, unfortunately the only thing i filmed all week
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kx9OpsW4fgU
Fri - woke up pre-dawn in Nant Peris and cursed my luck, wasn't getting back to sleep so decided I might as well get up and see if there was any wildlife about and as soon as I opened the van door was so glad I'd woken up as i saw the lovely light and epic sunrise up the pass, had a lovely peaceful walk but there was nothing out hunting. Quite tired after Thursday so after a lengthy breakfast decided to check out Cwn Glas Bach.
Decided to warm up at roadside which proved it was going be hard going today. A young lad turned up from Jerry's Roof and announced he was going to do The Edge problem as it was a right of passage, according to the guide, but that he usually only climbed "steep stuff" so wasn't very good using small holds. Was this it, he asked, pointing. Having spent a while reading the guide seeing out long dark nights in the van I was able to point to the high diagonal pocket and confirm that, yes, that was the hold mentioned by the guide so that was the line. He set about it but was struggling a bit, only making it to the pocket once. He claimed he could probably "dyno" from the crimps in teh middle without using it but I assured him that was not the classic right of passage which he sought, it was merely covering the ground without actually doing the problem. He didn't understand but his friend managed to confirm this to be correct. He tried another couple of times becoming increasingly frustrated before admitting defeat and slinking off. Unfortunately this proved to be the highlight of my day, I climbed very badly and where there had been flow and footwork there was now just clunkiness.
I went to try a problem called The Hand Rails of Crib Goch but was making heavy weather of it and becoming quite frustrated myself. I'd worked out all the individual moves but hadn't done the second and couldn't link more than a couple, my skin was sore, there was no pull from my shoulders and my arse was sagging out. Decided to try some of the easier stuff just by it but failed on 6C and 6B and when I couldn't get up the 5+ I knew I should probably call it a day. After a rest mooching around looking at other boulders I came back and had a speculative pull on, made the crux second move (using a different foothold to setup it turned out) then fought and scraped through the rest. Back to the van for coffee and flapjack and some serious decision making. An hour later drove back up the pass for some reason and saw a team on Cave Route, couldn't resist giving it ago while there were pads under it but it turns out the traverse is piss, it only bumps the grade of the arete as you're then tired making the big move between the jugs. Anyway, couldn't do that move so packed in and moved on again. Came to the conclusion that there was no way I could climb on Saturday and with sunday forecast wet took the reluctant decision to bale
Sat rest :fishing:
Sun - went to Wright's Rock, had never been and wanted to get somewhere beyond my normal day range. Quite humid and drippy. so probably not the best call in the end. Tried Simple Simon Indirect but struggled on the middle move, tempted to play the morpho card but maybe it was me being a bit sub optimal. Struggled on Rainbow Ride so looked for beta and it's really quite easy once you know how. Tried the sloper problem on the right and nearly did it when a local showed me the way. I'd tried something similar earlier but didn't like slapping a slopey break with my foot upside down in a hole. He also pointed out the undercut problem which I tried briefly and got closish but was blowing out of my arse by then. Final couple of attempts at the Sloper Problem to salvage the day but it wasn't to be. Pretty sure I'd manage all three fresh and with better connies.
Decent Brilliant week, some unfinished business finished, new venues visited, classics ticked, five new species of bird sighted and a 2lb (or thereabouts) Perch landed.