11

get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Johnny Brown on Today at 10:47:58 am »

What perspectives do you expect to get?

Well I've not climbed here for a decade and don't know the details. There was a fair amount of support on the UKC thread - the stuff removed was immediately replaced. What is guaranteed not to help matters is getting into a bolt war where stuff is continually removed and replaced. There is a wider issue here too - there is loads of similar at Stoney, for example, which personally I don't like - if I want convenience and fixed gear I go sport climbing.

As suggested above, there is potentially a compromise solution where much more limited fixed gear can still allow access for those with a clipstick. What cannot continue is a knotted rope down a Hard Severe - they won't agree to that on the grounds of visible tat or the potential for little Jimmy to get into big trouble. I can't see much of an issue where climbers go as a competent pair, but Ed seems to be suggesting he would prefer to be able to turn up alone? As much as that might be what happening it seems a bit of bonkers precendent to be setting.

The same landowner who is content to have over a 100 dogs on a dog walking meet on a summers afternoon like we witnessed last May.

I'm sorry but some perspective is required here.

You should do some access work. It is an educational experience to sit in a stakeholders meeting representing climbers and find that the majority view is that, a) climbers are not special (who knew - I mean wtf?) and dogwalkers have an equal seat at the table, and moreover, 2) landowners and conservationists are united in their view that an activity like a one off mass dog walk is considered less damaging (if they stick to main path etc.) than climbers being on the same route 3+ nights week for several hours.

Birders/ wardens tend to keep different hours to climbers, but also creep about, carry binocs etc and see a lot more than you might imagine. It's easy to get into a bit of an ownership mindset, when working a route like this and seeing next to nobody, that you can do what you like and no one sees, let alone cares. But in place like this if they're not watching directly there will be someone noting less nests in the area compared to previous years. The sound of a power drill is highly unlikely to go unnoticed. These things might not be enough to trigger contact, but they do get pulled out in meetings to weaken your negotiating position.

12

MoonBoard / Re: Moonboard - climbing by numbers or rather LED lights

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 10:20:48 am »

Mate of mine has just set up his mini moon board with the laminated wooden holds in his garage. He said he thought he was having condensation problems, but it looks like an odd case; one 4 or 5 of the holds are really damp, almost greasy, and the rest are fine. His garage has one wall as a retaining wall, but the rest are exposed to air and there is loads of space around it for air flow through the garage door and the side door, way more than the average cellar.

Anyone had any experience of this? it's like the holds haven't been dried out properly, or there is an issue with the lamination process.

13

get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Tony on Today at 09:33:37 am »

I couldn’t understand why the person who took everything out had not removed it completely?

This was not there when I visited most recently.

I can see plenty of people take the ethical view of wanting to keep things pure and adventurous. … it would be good if it was more pragmatic.

The BMC access arrangements are pragmatic.

I was also grateful for the convenience of all the roads carved through nice fields which I drove along to get there, the nice path I walked along and the helpful bridge I used to cross the stream.

The roads are public highways maintained under democratic principles, nominally for the wider public benefit. The paths and bridge are part of the public rights of way network and must be maintained by the landowner. These are also under the oversight of the local highways authority, so under democratic principles nominally for the wider public benefit.

The belays on top are pretty shit and the e1 we did to get to the top was shit and quite dodgy rock.

The belays at the top are perfectly adequate. Afterall this was how the anchors were placed. Once one knows what gear is required and where to place it, it is a quick affair to recreate. That one then has to reascend to the top and remove the equipment at the end of a session is a minor inconvenience (and was commonly considered part of the act of climbing).

There are … even other bolts on the same bit of wall

All the bolts on the buttress had gone when I last visited.

A couple of bolts up the back to clip stick up and not leaving ropes in place probably would have avoided all this fuss…

You can basically clip stick up the route in this case so why add any more kit (round the back)?

14

shootin' the shit / Re: Photo scanning in Sheffield

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 09:29:52 am »

Tough, but glad he managed to retain a sense of purpose. hope the rest goes OK.

15

get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Bonjoy on Today at 09:19:52 am »

I think it's plausible that if climbers proposed a minimalist solution which doesn't involve insitu ropes or bolts visible from the main path it might well (that is a guess at this point obviously) get approved by the landowner.
Whether that is appropriate and desirable for climbers is another question entirely.

16

get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by nik at work on Today at 09:10:44 am »

To be clear I don’t mind if people want to top-rope, headpoint, red point, pre-place gear, on-sight or any variation of the above. And agree that shouldn’t be part of this discussion.

Seems to me, from reading the RAD entry above that there is a suggested pathway to place additional fixed gear at this venue. It’s pretty clear that permission should be sought from the landowner, and there is no assumption this permission will be denied (or conversely granted). Did this happen? If so the new fixed gear is no problem, crack on. If not then all the new fixed gear should be removed. Any other existing fixed gear, and the number of dogs going for a walk is irrelevant.
Is there some hidden complexity I’m unaware of?

17

get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Ed booth on Today at 08:56:26 am »

There is an in situ chunky chain abseil off anyway , that wasn’t removed by who ever removed all the other stuff .
There are also a couple of bolts at the top of a route very close by that looks to not be a very popular route based on logs .

18

get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by stone on Today at 08:51:36 am »

It would be helpful if people criticising the leaving of fixed ropes etc avoided also criticising the ethical approach of working and then doing trad routes in this style, as JBs original post intended. People can spend their time on the crags doing routes however they want, it's none of anyone else's business. Seems pretty clear why people would want to do these trad routes; they're very good.

I totally agree.

I suppose the whole point is around equipment left long term at the crag. Perhaps some people like to trad climb these lines putting everything in themselves and leaving it clean at the end of the day. That doesn't seem unreasonable to me. Perhaps almost no-one wants to do that -if so then that would also seem fair enough (I guess a bit like how stakes at the top of Swanage trad are wanted by everyone).

I've only ever done bumbly trad-trad and for that it was nicest when everything was put in and taken out on the day (excepting stake-belays in mud top-outs). I thought the ancient ironmongery/tat I experienced on Peak lime trad would have been better stripped out. Perhaps a very discrete bolt abseil station might be OK? It seems to me nice to have eg a pinnacle summit that can only be reached by actual trad climbing and a shame to lose that without very good reason.

19

shootin' the shit / Re: Photo scanning in Sheffield

« Last post by James Malloch on Today at 08:18:04 am »

Sorry to hear the news James, this seems a lot sooner than I had hoped. If they are just small photos, with the right light and some post processing you can take reasonable shots of old photos with a phone, that's what we did for my brother's.

Cheers Andy/Chris. Yes it was very quick in the end, 13 weeks from diagnosis. Given how rough it was at times maybe that’s not a bad thing - he managed to stay home and keep his dignity throughout.

He was completely focused on sorting things for me and my step mum. From getting new fuse boards, TV aerials and Sky Q upgrade, to selling his car and transferring house ownership in his last week. He dealt with everything exactly as he wanted to.

He was really proud of what he had, and I’m glad he managed to keep don’t purpose by sorting things out right until the end. I’ve even since done some DIY jobs with WhatsApp instructions that he sent me! I’m really proud of how he conducted himself since finding out. He was a tough bugger!

20

power club / Re: Power Club 753 13 - 19 May 2024

« Last post by Wellsy on Today at 08:17:42 am »

Thanks Duma. I will be. Honestly I'm just looking forward to not just thinking about it all the time. Its exhausting!

Sorry to hear this, it will hurt but give it some time. TBH it sound like it was a difficult one, and being out of it will be beneficial for you in the long run.

I think it is for the best yeah. Still shit but for the best.