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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Banana finger on December 15, 2020, 04:45:41 pm

Title: Heaviest ascents
Post by: Banana finger on December 15, 2020, 04:45:41 pm
As the season for overindulgence and self loathing approaches, i was wondering what the heaviest known ascents are for probs of 7C and up (dynos don't count obvs).

I certainly don't mean this in a derogatory way! I find it really impressive to see heavyweights crushing.

It also means i can blame my lack of sends on a natural lack of ability rather than my weight.

I imagine Dawid S scores high on the big grades. Again, no disrespect, I think this is inspiring!
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: Yossarian on December 15, 2020, 04:57:54 pm
Me too!

jwi’s 100kg 8b sport hulk mate was v inspiring. There must be some big bouldering bastards out there.
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: remus on December 15, 2020, 05:07:22 pm
Not an all time heavyweight or a boulder problem, but there was a Norwegian chap called Sindre who climbed Chilam Balam last year who weighs something over 80kg. Pretty good effort getting up an enduro fest like that as a heavier climber.
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: jwi on December 15, 2020, 05:27:11 pm
Sindre Sæther has also done Arch Wall on the Troll Wall, modern A4+, onsight in free at 7b+.

Klem Loskot must be the best 90 kg+ climber of all time, bouldering and routes.

Mark Smith from Canada among the 100 kg +?
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: AMorris on December 15, 2020, 05:30:21 pm
Seem to remember seeing something on Sam Davenhalls instagram about him making good progress on Kaizen (8B+) with a 12kg weight vest on, and unless he is far shorter than he looks he must be around 80kg. I suspect he is up there for strongest ascents by a heavy climber.
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: T_B on December 15, 2020, 05:39:47 pm
Whoah there. I don’t reckon Klem was 90kg at 6 foot. Believe me, there’s a big difference between 86kg and 90kg. Google says he was 190lbs which is 86kg and that’s pretty meaty for 6 foot.
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: Aussiegav on December 15, 2020, 05:53:21 pm
Toni Lamprecht is massive. He’s the biggest climber I’ve met. He was a lot bigger than Klem when I met them in the Grampians in 1999
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: Fiend on December 15, 2020, 06:35:17 pm
Shurely it should be about BMI rather than pure weight? And ideally factor in bodily weight distribution too. 6ft / 80+kg / where most of it is lats and biceps might not be the handicap it seems on paper.

Incidentally I had a useful chat with thekettle about Blackpool Sam and the solution to dealing with being heavy - apparently it's as easy as "get really fucking strong". The secret to managing this without getting perma-injured due to the weight was less obvious.
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: Bradders on December 15, 2020, 06:41:25 pm
I think Toby Saxton will be up there. Done things like The Finnish Line 8C in Rocklands and I think is somewhere around 90kg.
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: Yossarian on December 15, 2020, 06:45:27 pm
I think Toby Saxton will be up there. Done things like The Finnish Line 8C in Rocklands and I think is somewhere around 90kg.

193 cm, 93 kg and 35 years old (in 2015)
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: AMorris on December 15, 2020, 07:22:47 pm
the solution to dealing with being heavy - apparently it's as easy as "get really fucking strong". The secret to managing this without getting perma-injured due to the weight was less obvious.

 :lol: that does seem to be the traditional approach. Any idea if he is still climbing? He seems to have gone a bit quiet on that front.
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: Sasquatch on December 15, 2020, 07:49:37 pm
I think Toby Saxton will be up there. Done things like The Finnish Line 8C in Rocklands and I think is somewhere around 90kg.

193 cm, 93 kg and 35 years old (in 2015)

BMMI- of 24.8ish.
 
Shurely it should be about BMI rather than pure weight? And ideally factor in bodily weight distribution too. 6ft / 80+kg / where most of it is lats and biceps might not be the handicap it seems on paper.

Incidentally I had a useful chat with thekettle about Blackpool Sam and the solution to dealing with being heavy - apparently it's as easy as "get really fucking strong". The secret to managing this without getting perma-injured due to the weight was less obvious.
great example of this. 

Are you looking for the tallest big guys, or just the fatties.  I've done 8A+ at 27 BMI :)
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: Yossarian on December 15, 2020, 09:00:33 pm
I’d be interested in John Dunne’s ratio of fat bloke:fighting weight...
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: r-man on December 15, 2020, 09:17:29 pm

I imagine Dawid S scores high on the big grades. Again, no disrespect, I think this is inspiring!

When I used to develop peak lime with him, holds coming off as he cranked was a regular occurrence, followed shortly by "oh, me and my thirteen and a half stone!"

Dunno what weight he was for his harder things in recent years - he has experimented with dieting.

Simon Newstead weighed about 13 stone when he was in Sheffield I think. Then climbed The Island.

Seem to remember seeing something on Sam Davenhalls instagram about him making good progress on Kaizen (8B+) with a 12kg weight vest on, and unless he is far shorter than he looks he must be around 80kg. I suspect he is up there for strongest ascents by a heavy climber.

Depends how tall you think he looks? He isn't that tall. May well be 80kg though. What he weighs now probably isn't what he weighed when he did his hardest problems, but he's never been light (from what he told me).

Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: AMorris on December 16, 2020, 11:28:33 am
Depends how tall you think he looks? He isn't that tall. May well be 80kg though. What he weighs now probably isn't what he weighed when he did his hardest problems, but he's never been light (from what he told me).

Looks around 5' 9" ish to me. Judging by the picture of him on Kaisen, I am guessing most of that 80kg is arm!
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: T_B on December 16, 2020, 12:22:36 pm
As the season for overindulgence and self loathing approaches, i was wondering what the heaviest known ascents are for probs of 7C and up (dynos don't count obvs).

I certainly don't mean this in a derogatory way! I find it really impressive to see heavyweights crushing.

It also means i can blame my lack of sends on a natural lack of ability rather than my weight.

I imagine Dawid S scores high on the big grades. Again, no disrespect, I think this is inspiring!

Lots of speculation on here. I’m gonna stick my neck out and claim the heaviest ascent of Pump up the Power at 87Kg  ;D.

Dawid is definitely an outlier being incredibly powerful, but also able to pull on small holds. Maybe not now, but he used to run up and down the campus board on monos.

I’ve climbed 7C+ and longer 8As at 86kg-87kg, but the few shorter 8As I’ve done I dropped to 84kg.
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: AMorris on December 16, 2020, 12:32:29 pm
Don't quite know how I got me previous post so wrong, that should have been this:

Depends how tall you think he looks? He isn't that tall. May well be 80kg though. What he weighs now probably isn't what he weighed when he did his hardest problems, but he's never been light (from what he told me).

Looks around 5' 9" ish to me. Judging by the picture of him on Kaisen, I am guessing most of that 80kg is arm!
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 16, 2020, 12:37:54 pm
Don't quite know how I got me previous post so wrong, that should have been this:

Depends how tall you think he looks? He isn't that tall. May well be 80kg though. What he weighs now probably isn't what he weighed when he did his hardest problems, but he's never been light (from what he told me).

Looks around 5' 9" ish to me. Judging by the picture of him on Kaisen, I am guessing most of that 80kg is arm!

He’s 5’10
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: Banana finger on December 16, 2020, 12:46:22 pm
Impressive to see so many almost 90Kg ascents of world standard routes.

Guess BMI isn't too important, I'm just interested in the most human meat thats been hauled up hard boulders.

I guess BMI isn't too interesting since, even though bigger people have bigger muscles, we all have pretty much the same fingers/tendons/pulleys/skin.....regardless of size.

Its mad that some crushers are around 80% heavier than say Rustam! Almost 2 Rustams!



Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: mark s on December 17, 2020, 11:31:36 am
I soloed roscoes wall at 108kg but hvs is far from approaching hard ascents
Title: Re: Heaviest ascents
Post by: honroid on February 24, 2021, 09:39:06 pm
I’d be interested in John Dunne’s ratio of fat bloke:fighting weight...

Same. He used to cut a tonne(ish) of weight for sending but equally, when heavy and in training mode still got out on rock. I wonder what his hardest and fattest ascent was. I'm guessing Andy Jack isn't on here?
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