UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Bonjoy on February 17, 2014, 01:04:00 pm
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Mostly from the last couple of weeks, plus a couple of fillers from last year.
Stanage - DIY area
Twix 6c (7a SS) - The left arete of the Kit-Kat slab is an E3 called Take a Break. Climb the left side of this as an Alliance style overhanging double arete all the way to a tricky exit. Similar in height and difficulty to the Alliance. The landing is a bit steep, I tied a couple of mats off to stop them sliding.
(https://peakboulderingimages.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/photo/image/1117/standard_IMG_0151.JPG)
Bradley Quarry Boulders
Birdsong 7c - Climb the steep west face of the huge boulder below the sycamore (House/Eat Less Bread boulder) from a sit start. Kneepad pretty crucial at this grade. I'm guessing it will go at about 8a without the kneebar if anyone fancies it.
https://vimeo.com/86888023
This has been a proj of mine for a while with most of the time/effort taken up sorting the horrific landing out. Worth the effort though I think.
Pinch Punch 7b+ - A right to left traverse of the same face. Starting with a hand on the right arete. Brilliant crossover pinch slap at the end.
https://vimeo.com/86889266
Other fillers on the block: -
Crumblehorn 6c+ - Supercedes the old sit start to Eat Less Bread (holds disintegrated). Start on the SW corner of the block and drape right along the lip to finish up ELB.
South Western Front 6a+ - The right atete of the west face from sitting
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Effort Gooseboy. Nice kneebar into inverted gaston into mouth fart sequence on <no name yet>
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The 7c is called Birdsong.
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Birdsong looks great, good name.
I bet Gritlad is gutted he went all yella' belly at the top of twix
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To be fair his topout on the right looked pretty terrifying as you'd probably tumble all the way down the slope if you came off.
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Birdsong 7c - Climb the steep west face of the huge boulder below the sycamore (House/Eat Less Bread boulder) from a sit start. Kneepad pretty crucial at this grade. I'm guessing it will go at about 8a without the kneebar if anyone fancies it.
https://vimeo.com/86888023
This has been a proj of mine for a while with most of the time/effort taken up sorting the horrific landing out. Worth the effort though I think.
Nice backhander! effort :beer2:
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Good work Jon. Enjoyed the film.
How is it getting around Bradley at the moment? Last time I went down there I ended up tunnelling through brambles on the descent after the 'Tiger' bits.
Am thinking another visit is due.
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Cheers. The walk in fine, if a bit slippy. Should be ok until the bracket jungle returns
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Cheers. The walk in fine, if a bit slippy. Should be ok until the bracket jungle returns
Bracken jungle has returned! Over head height in some places but the rock after a bit of brushing was in good nick. Great sequence on Birdsong, really fun to climb on as is Pinch Punch and Swingers. Good little circuit!
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I've been down to Bradley and climbed Birdsong and also did a right-hand finish that might be a new one. I found the RH harder than Birdsong but I think it's still the same grade. I had planned to finish by mantling onto the slab but couldn't do it (the green doesn't help) so went up the arete.
Both great problems, cheers for sorting out the landing and discovering the sequence Jon. These and Swingers Party are clean at the moment, good on a windy day as sheltered from the westerlies, less ideal on a not windy day as the damp seems to linger around.
https://vimeo.com/194338388
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Good work. Move to the arete on th RH looks great. Nice to have a reason to go back to this boulder now.
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Went here today - all in good condition and the bracken etc is dead so you can get around ok!
Did Birdsong RH, without a kneepad, and it was good. Slightly dif. sequence bumping again to the top crimp with left rather than putting knee bar in.
Also did it starting on the left arete, reversing Pinch Punch and finishing up the RH version. Guess this ups it by a notch gradewise.
Found lots of ways to not do the original version. May have to buy kneepad although then won't have an excuse.
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Nice Ben. Didn't realise you had already done the reverse of pinch punch into these. I got excited thinking I'd done a FA. Didn't think to reverse from the left arete though. I just started from the good layaways. I'll have to go back to get the full tick. Oh well
Here's a video for beta on birdsong RH no kneebar
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2224624030893428&id=100000375576789&sfnsn=mo
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I assume your link starts matched on the arete. I can imagine this adds quite a tricky drop down move via the pinch