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« Last post by Teaboy on Yesterday at 04:50:22 pm »
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No Power Club...
M: MB @ 25 Degrees - 10 problems inc. 6C flash and fast repeat of soft 7A (6C+ish)... 3 x 1 min foot on campus 20mm edges.
T: Rest
W: 4x4 @ AW - Auto Belays F6a+ - F6b+, 3 x 1.1 mins foot on campus 20mm edges.
T: Rest
F: MB @ 25 Degrees - 10 problems inc. repeat of hard 6C (6C+ for sure!) 2 x 1.15 mins foot on campus 20mm edges.
S: 9 Miles of walking in't Peak.
S: Bouldering @ Curbar - Energizer Bunny dragged me to do Arse of Japan. They did it, I didn't. Did some mid 6 stuff, snatched defeat from the jaws of victory on a 7A dyno and dropped the top of UGE at the jugs due to being tired and having no skin left - Top day of failing to get up anything noteworthy (or even repeat anything I'd done before) but still enjoying being outside with me best mate...
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« Last post by tomtom on Yesterday at 12:33:22 pm »
On Gideon Falter there was was an ex superintendent on the TV this morning defending the Lawrence family concerns. He also mentioned it's worth watching the full news clip on Sky news. Gideon had a camera crew ready and was trying to cross the path of the March itself. The superintendent was clear the Jewish comments were totally unacceptable but Gideon doesn't seem to be quite what he claimed.
https://news.sky.com/story/sky-news-footage-reveals-new-details-of-exchange-between-police-and-antisemitism-campaigner-called-openly-jewish-13120104
Essential viewing to get the full context. I think the police in that footage are being the adults in the room and look calm and polite. Of course he has a right of freedom of expression of faith, and to wear whatever he wants and go where he wants. But compare with a normal weekend afternoon up and down the country when rowdy opposing tribes of football fans are escorted by police in an effort to try to retain the peace, and not allow potentially volatile crowds to antagonise each other to the point of violence... we don't hear much about self-important football fans claiming they're being victimised by not being allowed their freedom to freely walk into an emotionally-charged crowd of people who may not like you very much, risking their own safety and those of the people who would inevitably have to try to sort it out following an inflammation. And then complaining that the police aren't keeping them safe by allowing public order to breakdown because of their lemming-like fondness for a confrontation with reality.
He's acting like a man-baby. Says it all that now the fuller picture has emerged that he claims he's now being victim-blamed. He has 'want-to-be-victim-of-injustice' stamped all over his core based on that footage.
There was also a piece on C4 news - where they found phone footage of Gideon F trying to cross the march on at least two other occasions and being asked not to by two different police officers. It appears that his behavior was being observed by a plain clothes officer and when G was challenged about this and denied it - said officer piped up to contradict him.
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« Last post by SA Chris on Yesterday at 11:27:49 am »
UKC Article references Melissa LN doing them too.
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« Last post by SA Chris on Yesterday at 11:26:02 am »
That's interesting Chris, I wonder if it was just coincidence or it really works like that. Father in law got a ballot place first time by selecting the 'agree to donate your entry fee and get a better chance / free training top' option, though perhaps has a less common postcode too.
I'm in no hurry - I run quite a few long trail races and am not really motivated by a road marathon, but would like to do London just the once. I'll keep entering the ballot and when it eventually happens, that'll be the year and I'll put in a decent training effort.
Who knows? A friend in an even more obscure postcode has applied to the ballot every year for 10 years and not got in, maybe it's number of people living in that post code vs applications (speculating wildly). I was never really that keen either, and if it hadn't fallen on the day of my 50th i probably wouldn't have bothered, but partner said give it a go, you never know. I put in a block of fairly hard training, enough to be walking a fine line of being injured (ITB was really painful for last 3km), but it was a wonderful experience to do, and recommended. Never had the desire since to do another marathon though (might do another ultra though, a lot less stressful).
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« Last post by edshakey on Yesterday at 11:20:46 am »
The club ballot system has got worse/harder recently, such that small clubs are put in a ballot to see if they even get one spot. I believe it used to be such that every club got at least one place, bigger getting more. So I'd agree, there's not likely to be a club where you'd easily get that place! However, it's still probably better odds than the public ballot - my club had two places available, and it distributes them randomly between interested members, and my chance in that was about twice as good as the public ballot. I'm in no hurry - I run quite a few long trail races and am not really motivated by a road marathon, but would like to do London just the once. I'll keep entering the ballot and when it eventually happens, that'll be the year and I'll put in a decent training effort.
Yep same, I probably won't do a different road marathon instead but I will enter London valor every year just in case I get lucky!
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« Last post by jwi on Yesterday at 10:43:16 am »
Big Boss, Fourmi Rouge, Tristesse, Big Golden and Atresie has been called Le Big Five as long as I can remember at least. Melissa Le Nevé was probably the first woman to do them all (2015, but not in a day). Grimper Magazine reports that she did precisely these 5 in a day (they also source Janja's instagram story but the story has timed out, so I could not verify) and speculates that not many of her competitors would be able to do all five in a day because of the variety of styles.
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« Last post by lukeyboy on Yesterday at 10:40:44 am »
That's interesting Chris, I wonder if it was just coincidence or it really works like that. Father in law got a ballot place first time by selecting the 'agree to donate your entry fee and get a better chance / free training top' option, though perhaps has a less common postcode too.
It feels like you'd be hard pushed to find a club which has allocated places but no-one interested. Certainly not the case with my local clubs!
I'm in no hurry - I run quite a few long trail races and am not really motivated by a road marathon, but would like to do London just the once. I'll keep entering the ballot and when it eventually happens, that'll be the year and I'll put in a decent training effort.
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« Last post by Stabbsy on Yesterday at 10:13:49 am »
Bit OT but what is people's understanding of the big 5? BITD I always thought of the original big 4 as big boss, formis rouges, tristesse, and watchtower. That was then made 5 by the inclusion of atrésie. Looks like she did big golden rather than watchtower?
There's a list on UKC but that's from Remus and I don't know how recently that was put on
There's a section in Between the Trees where Ty does Big Boss, Big Golden, Formis Rouges and Tristesse (no footage of Atresie as it was too dark). I'd always based my understanding on that, although pretty sure I was aware of the big 4 before that. Maybe from the OTE guide, as that was all we had when I went the first time.
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« Last post by jwi on Yesterday at 10:07:50 am »
[...], but for me it's interesting to see how incredibly capable she is on rock despite not really spending that much time outside relatively (witness her 2 8c os in a week a couple of years back).
Maybe after she wins the Olympics again she can look for a new challenge and we might find out what she can do outside if she really tries.
As I understand it she came fairly close to doing La Dura Dura before the fires. (Hearsay, sorry, not witnessed myself)
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