UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: Peanuts on June 11, 2008, 04:11:48 pm
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OK, its stinkin' hot and the pad has been removed from the boot of my car for a well deserved rest, to be replaced with my finest piece of furry string. It is finally time to join the throngs of chuffers on Grooved Arrete at Kilnsey ( hey, it's only an extended boulder problem 8)). Unfortunately I am still piss weak with all the stamina/endurance of .. well... a weak non-durable thing.
So cut down the number of days(weeks) I will need to spend on this route I was wondering if any of you uber wads has a few pearls of wisdom to cast before this particular fat pig.
Post your beta and you shall be rewarded in heaven or the pub (which ever is cheaper) ;)
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I used a right leg kneebar (a painful one if you don't use a fat knee pad), to make the tricky throw right (the low crux), it also gave me a chance to claw back some energy before taking on the groove. If you can a train a bit of recovery it should also be possible to have a bit of a shake out on the biggish hold at the top of the groove before the last hard move (redpoint crux).
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I used a funny left heel low down, possibly to match the 2 crimps before the move to the dish that BJ was talking about. I thought the knee bar was shit. Missing out 2 unnecessary clips was definitely worthwhile - the ones at the base and the top of the groove. Can't remember much else, apart from it was brilliant...
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You think all knee bars are shit.
The kneebar (if it fits) takes a good 50% of your weight and sets you up perfectly for the next move. For me I reckon the route would have taken me five sessions instead of three if I hadn't used the kneebar.
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...perhaps my 16 sessions could have been cut down to 14!
OK, the knee bar isn't essential. There are ways around it, so don't sweat too much if it doesn't work for you.
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You should have tried fashioning a kneepad out of raw sausage meat, that would have got you up it in no time, or better still a full sausage meat body-suit.
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You should have tried fashioning a kneepad out of raw sausage meat, that would have got you up it in no time, or better still a full sausage meat body-suit.
Like the one Steve McFadden aka Phil 'I used to be a contender' Mitchell off of Eastenders wears?
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It's working for Forest Whittacker on Brief Encounter
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I found I couldn't reach the sloper with my knee in the bar so got a good drop knee across the groove so I could (occasionally) reach the sloper and then pocket. The move at the top is the redpoint crux as Bonjoy say's. Only clip the 1st and 2nd mechanical bolts,then the 1st, 4th and last glue-in's. Extending the glue-ins helps as well.
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Forget what I said about the knee-bar, there's a much easier way without it.
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I found I couldn't reach the sloper with my knee in the bar so got a good drop knee across the groove so I could (occasionally) reach the sloper and then pocket. The move at the top is the redpoint crux as Bonjoy say's. Only clip the 1st and 2nd mechanical bolts,then the 1st, 4th and last glue-in's. Extending the glue-ins helps as well.
My brief jaunts up this last year led to a similar sequence, with a wide bridge with the RF across the groove onto a spike. However I did use a knee bar to bring the LH into the crimp before hitting the sloper with the RH. The Left heel Sausage mentions helps a great deal to hit the pcoket accurately.....great route.
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All very wise words there gents.
Since trying this with my @work buddy I'll throw in our prefered flavour for the first crux bulge.
Two cupped undercuts (the obvious way round - how you'd grasp your moobs or...) allow you to get a LEFT knee bar which is tres comfy. Cross lefthand to the broken edge taking care that the rope doesn't get in your way (poorly placed resin bolt) and right hand to the first slopy edge. Right foot over to the hold in the groove and up again with right-hand. Left into pocket and away. Much the easiest of the myriad of possibilities, and leaves you still fresh for the groovy arete section.
I'm about to put an alternative sequence of NCB doing it on vimeo.
This should be on everyones list imo - superb climbing. 8)
Did you ever do it in the end Peanuts?
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:agree:
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Bringing the thread back to life...
Been on this today and I have a sequence for the top but I''m sure it isn't the best one. Just wondering if anyone can remember what they did from the sica'd on jug at the top?
Thanks in advance
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Was a few years ago but from the jug-went a long way with left hand for positive obvious crimp directly above the jug, then up right for small sloper crimp before rocking back left-almost in balance-for the flake.
Does anyone know what height La Connection joints GA? Not sure if i was too high and straying on to Quick Fixe.
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Was a few years ago but from the jug-went a long way with left hand for positive obvious crimp directly above the jug, then up right for small sloper crimp before rocking back left-almost in balance-for the flake.
Does anyone know what height La Connection joints GA? Not sure if i was too high and straying on to Quick Fixe.
You do the crux of GA (i.e. the sequence you just described). Its a loooong move of a tiny and rather unpleasant RH crimp, long rockover move, to eventually end up with the GA jug with your LH