UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Fiend on March 06, 2024, 08:34:33 am
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Is there any beta that makes this 6C+ for 6C+ climbers?? And if so, what is it??
As far as I can tell:
1. Eliminate the obvious pocket version: RF chip, LF nick in groove, stand up, RH one of the two main pebbles, LH pebble out left, RF on some terrible smear and crank like a bastard for the top (I can see this working if you're the sort of crimp waif that does repeaters on 6mms and BM2k monos)
2. Use the obvious pocket but eliminate the right arete version ("a grade easier" according to the book but still harder than any 6C+ slab I've ever tried): RF chip, LF nick in groove, stand up, RF pocket (trying not to think about skidding sideways and overshooting the landing), LH one of the two main pebbles, RH to vertical fin pebble near arete, crank like a bastard to stand in the pocket and thence the top (I can see this working if you're the same crimp waif who has swapped some mono repeaters for weighted pistol squats (I've been doing weighted single leg box squats, clearly not enough)).
I want to like this problem (for the aesthetics and style) but currently I'm struggling to, given it's got two different eliminate versions and a chipped foothold to start and each version will result in circumcised fingers and possibly prolapse too. Hence if anyone can reveal the secret or confirm I should just fuck off and move on, that would be nice x
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I have tried this and not done it. I remember thinking mint cons were an absolute prerequisite.Seems likely its 7A/+ rather than 6C+.
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Ditto. Tried it a couple times. Felt nails. Gave up.
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Well that's not getting me up the problem but it is enlightening. Both sessions were in great conditions - one very cold, one cool and fresh, not quite perfect as in between would be ideal, but also bone dry with good skin (taped anyway).
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Was there the other day - i suspect pebble wall had a few more features/pebbles in the past. One of those I've never seen anyone climb, but it keeps a grade. Winsome is like that a Wimberry - people say they've climbed it, and that it 'stays left', but I've not seen anyone do it. Also feels nails to me... broken pebbles?
Has anyone tried 'the humps' at Widdop. Looked super cool, but I really struggled on it. Conditions were terrible, but it still seemed extremely powerful for 6c+ (ukc says 7a+....). Any tips would be appreciated - it was a cool feature.
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I've done Winsome! I thought 7A+ was about right. It was really mint though. I put some guff about where I thought the line went on the logbooks.
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I was with Hadyn a couple of years ago when he did The Humps. He said it was desperate for the grade and a sandbag. This was shortly before doing Happy Feet in a few goes and flashing Fight On Black.
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I've tried and failed on both Pebble Wall and The Humps. I was expecting to do both in a couple of goes, but quickly moved on with my tail between my legs.
Anyway, there's beta for The Humps Sitter below at 2:20, hopefully that will shine some light on the stand.
https://vimeo.com/729604945